Hogtunes 692 XL LID-AA User manual

www.hogtunes.com
Any audio system can be a distraction to the rider
and/or passenger. Please use caution when
playing your stereo, especially in traffic.
692 XL LID-AA
Installation Manual
For 1998-2013 Touring Models
Rev 1.0
Replacement Saddlebag Lids With XL Series
6x9” Speakers

Thank-you for choosing the Hogtunes Model 692 XL Lid-AA kit for 1998-2013
touring model bikes! Since positive word of mouth is the best way to grow our
business, we want your new kit to work as well as it was designed to. If you have
any questions or concerns, we are here to help. Email
techsuppor[email protected]m, or call us during regular business hours at
608-554-7631 (USA) or 705-719-6361 (Canada). If you still need help, please
consider a professional installation by your motorcycle dealer.
Removing parts to get lids ready for paint:
Start by removing the 2 screws on the underside of the lid that secures the grill
in place. Lift up slightly on the grill and slide out. Note: we strongly suggest
putting the grills screws back in the grills so you don't lose them! Remove the 4
screws that secure each speaker and silicone gasket to the lids and put aside.
Remove the saddlebag from the bike, and put on a stable padded surface. For
obvious reasons, blankets etc. on the bench will help protect the paint.
The white circle in the picture above is where a 3/4” (19mm) hole will be drilled.
This hole is where the supplied Hogtunes rubber grommet will go, and allow the
speaker wire for the lid to pass into the saddlebag. We strongly suggest putting
masking tape over the area to be drilled before making the hole. We also
suggest starting with a small bit, and gradually working your way up to the
3/4” (19mm) hole.
2
The speakers magnet is large, and powerful. Credit cards and electronics
can be sensitive to magnets, so please exercise caution in how you pack
your saddlebags. Metal objects packed into your bags may end up stuck to
the magnet, so please use caution when opening the lids.
The magnet can get hot. Please consider this when packing your
saddlebags.
Warranty Information:
Hogtunes XL Series speakers are warranted for a period of 5 years to the
original purchaser. Proof of purchase is required for all warranty claims.
Warranty claims are handled directly with Hogtunes. Products found to be
defective during the warranty period will be replaced (with a product
deemed to be equivalent) at Hogtunes sole discretion.
What Is Not Covered:
1) Any expense related to the removal or re-installation of Hogtunes products.
2) Repairs to these products performed by anyone other than Hogtunes.
3) Subsequent damage to any other components.
4) Any product purchased from a non-authorized Hogtunes dealer
5) Damage to Hogtunes products due to an accident or collision.
6) Paint applied to any part, for any reason
7) Speaker frames (baskets) that are bent
8) Speaker cones that are pierced or cut.
9) Damage caused by over tightening, or not using supplied fasteners.
10) Damage from use of Thread lock type materials of any kind
Hogtunes #692-XL Speakers
Power Handling: 200 Watts
Frequency Response: 30hz-25Khz
Sensitivity : 96 db 1watt/1meter
Nominal Impedance: 2.0 Ohms
7
Important Notes:
1)The speakers in this kit are 2 ohms (2Ω) and require an amplifier
capable of reliably playing this electrical load.
2)We strive to make the parts perfect, but things can happen.
Please inspect the parts carefully BEFORE PAINT
IMPORTANT: In the event of a warranty claim, please fill
out the form in the Warranty section of our website
www.hogtunes.com. Valid claims will have a Return
Authorization Number (RA#) generated which MUST appear
on the outside of the box when it arrives to our offices.
Goods Arriving Without An RA# Will Be Refused!

Routing the speaker wire harness:
The long supplied harness with 4 wires has 2-2 pin plugs on one end, and a
single 4 pin plug on the other. In all cases, the end with the 4 pin plug will go
nearest the amp your using which will typically be in your fairing.
For FLH (Batwing) Models. The harness will pass under the inner fairing
where the main wire harness passes through on the brake side of the bike.
For FLTR (Road Glide) Models, the harness will pass through the inner fairing
where the factory wires pass. Loosen the tank console and run wires up and
over the gas tank, but under the tank console. There is a provision on the
front of the tank console for wires to pass. Once past the battery, the har-
ness will continue towards the back of the bike along the frame, and when
correctly installed, the 2-2pin plugs will be beside the back seat on the brake
side of the bike. Secure the harness to the bikes factory harness’ using zip
ties. Plug the brake side lid in. Run the clutch side under the seat and plug it
in. NOTE: Although not necessary, if you are comfortable removing the fuel
tank, you can run the lids wire harness in the “wire chase” under the tank.
Wiring the lids to your amp:
The 4 pin connector will plug into any Hogtunes 2 channel amp (except 24.2),
or any Hogtunes 4 Channel amp. If your using another brand of amplifier,
you will see that the wires near the 4 plug are labeled. Simply cut the plug off
and wire the lids to your amp using the labels to identify each wire.
Striker Plates:
Each kit comes 4 new “striker plates” that will be applied on the outside of
the lid. Use your factory lids as reference for how and where these go. Like
all other adhesive parts in this manual, clean the area first! We suggest
applying the striker plates to the lids and letting them sit for a few hours
with the lids OPEN to give the adhesive a chance to really “dig in”. If you
close the lids, the adhesive is immediately “under pressure” and the new
striker plates may not stick as well as they can.
6
The supplied rubber grommets are “split” to
make installation much easier once the wire is in
the bag. The white circle in the picture shows a
“plug” that can easily be removed. If the only
wire you have going into your saddlebag is the
speaker wire, leave the plug in place. If you have
a second wire for lighting etc., removing the
plug from the grommet will allow a second wire
to pass without having to drill additional holes
in your saddlebag.
Remove the 4 screws that hold the cloth tether in place. With the tether off,
slide one of the metal bars out from inside the tether as it will be used for
new lid. The screws just removed will be re-used.
With the tether off, fold the factory lid all the way over, exposing the 5
screws shown by white arrows. When these are removed, the factory lid will
be free from the saddlebag. These screws will be used to install the new lid so
keep them handy. With the factory lid off the bike, you will see a metal
“strip” between the rubber gasket and the lid itself that the screws just
removed threaded into. This metal strip must be removed as it will be used to
install the new lid.
3

The lids come with soft black silicone gaskets that go between the speakers and
the lids, and MUST be installed correctly to keep water out. One side of the
gaskets have a grove on the inside, and the other side have a groove on the
outside. On the underside of the lid , you will see a “lip” that goes around the
speaker opening. The side of the gasket with the groove on the inside will
“mate” to the lip around the speaker opening on the lid. IMPORTANT. The
gasket will come close to one of the 2 holes where screws go through to secure
the grill as shown by “D” in Fig 1.1. When correctly installed, the gasket will be
oriented so the “notch” in the silicone gasket goes around this screw boss.
On the speaker itself, you will see a “lip” that goes around the perimeter of the
speakers steel frame. The side of the gasket with the groove on the
outside will “mate” to the lip around the speaker. IMPORTANT. The “end” of
the speaker with the small circuit board and speaker connectors must be placed
so they are closest to the REAR of the lid! Please take a moment to check that
the gasket is sitting correctly on the lid, and the speaker is sitting correctly on
the gasket before securing the speaker to the lid using the supplied silver
Phillips pan head screws.
Included in the kit is adhesive “pads” that when attached, have a provision to
secure the wires in place using the supplied zip-ties. Half the supplied zip-ties,
and half the supplied pads are for one saddlebag, and you guessed it, the other
half is for the other saddlebag.
Its time to route the wires in the saddlebag. Please do a “ghost run” of placing
the wires before applying any adhesives. This will help-trust us! For the ghost
run, have the wire from the woofer go straight to the bag, just in front of the
new flap, and “fold” the wire so it will naturally want to go straight down.
Leave a little slack between the lid and bag to give a little “wiggle room” for
when the lid opens and closes. Have the wire go straight down to the bottom of
the bag and do another fold so the wire wants to point to the outside back of
the saddlebag. Once there, do another fold to point the wire to the inside back
of the saddle bag. Another fold to point the wire forward along the bottom of
the bag, and directly below the point where you drilled the hole for the grom-
met, do another fold so the wire goes straight up to the hole. When done cor-
rectly, the black 2 pin plug can go through the grommet hole, and hang out ap-
proximately 4” (10cm).
Once your satisfied the wires are ghost run as instructed, you will want to plan
where the adhesive pads will go, so that the supplied zip ties will secure the
wires inside the bag. Note: Before applying the pads, you need to clean the
plastic well using isopropyl alcohol, or similar cleaner. DO NOT use Acetone (It
will eat plastic). With the pads in place, secure the wires in place using supplied
zip ties.
5
In the kit you will see 2 lengths of foam rubber gasket material-one for each
lid. Before applying the gasket, you need to clean the plastic well using
isopropyl alcohol, or similar cleaner. DO NOT use Acetone (It will eat plastic).
The “A” arrow in Fig 1.1 shows where we suggest you start applying the
gasket. Minor stretching may be needed to get the gasket around the
corners but don't over do it, as over stretched areas may become a place
water can enter! When all the way around, you can expect a bit of gasket left
over which can be cut off using a sharp razor knife.
Locate the supplied black “gummy” material, and use it to seal the 2 holes at
“B”, and the single hole at “C” as shown in Fig 1.1.
With the foam gasket installed and holes sealed with black material, you will
insert the factory metal strip (5 screws) between the gasket and new lid.
Re-install the 5 factory machine screws the same way they came off the factory
lid. Note: in some cases, the factory screws are not quite long enough. If this is
the case for your lids, look for the bag of 10 slightly longer screws that came
with your kit. The new lid will now be attached to your saddlebag. Locate the
flap that came with your new kit. The metal bar that was removed from the
factory tether will be inserted into the new flap in the appropriate end. There
is a shorter metal bar in your kit that will go in the shorter end of the new
tether. Once done, using the 4 screws removed from the factory flap, secure
the new tether to the lid/bag.
4
Only Use HAND TOOLS for re-installing parts into the lids.
Damage to any part from over tightening, or not using
supplied fasteners is NOT covered by warranty!
Fig 1.1 (above) will be used as a reference for the next few steps.
A B
C
D
Fig 1.1