Hogtunes 692 XL LID-RM User manual

www.hogtunes.com
692LID-RM Manual Rev 1.2
Any audio system can be a distraction to the rider
and/or passenger. Please use caution when
playing your stereo, especially in traffic.
692 XL LID-RM
Installation Manual
For 2014+ “Rushmore”
Touring Models
Rev 1.0
Replacement Saddlebag Lids With
XL Series 6x9” Speakers

Thank-you for choosing the Hogtunes Model 692 XL Lid-RM kit for 2014+
“Rushmore” touring model bikes! Since positive word of mouth is the best way
to grow our business, we want your new kit to work as well as it was designed
to. If you have any questions or concerns, we are here to help. Email
techsuppor[email protected]m, or call us during regular business hours at
608-554-7631 (USA) or 705-719-6361 (Canada). If you still need help, please
consider a professional installation by your motorcycle dealer.
Undo the 4 screws that hold the speakers in and put the speakers and silicone
gaskets aside. Remove the small Phillips screw at the front of each lid and
release the grills from the lids. The lids are now ready for paint.
Remove the saddlebag from the bike, and put on a stable working surface. For
obvious reasons, blankets etc. on your work surface will help protect the paint.
The white circle in Fig 1.1 above is where a 3/4” (19mm) hole will be drilled. This
hole is where the supplied Hogtunes rubber grommet will go to allow the lids
speaker wire to pass from the saddlebag. We strongly suggest putting masking
tape over the painted area to be drilled. We also suggest starting with a small
bit, and gradually working your way up to the 3/4” (19mm) hole. Drilling the hole
with the lid still on is recommended!
The supplied grommet in Fig 1.2 is “split” to make the install much easier once
the wire is in the bag. The white circle in the picture shows a “plug” that can
easily be removed. If the only wire you have going into your saddlebag is the
speaker wire, leave the plug in place. If you have a second wire for such things as
lighting etc., removing the plug from the grommet will allow the second wire to
also pass without having to drill additional holes in your saddlebag.
Fig 1.1 Fig 1.2
Important Notes:
1)The speakers in this kit are 2 ohms (2Ω) and require an amplifier
capable of reliably playing this electrical load.
2)We strive to make the parts perfect, but things can happen.
Please inspect the parts carefully BEFORE PAINT
Warranty Information:
Hogtunes XL Series speakers are warranted for a period of 5 years to the
original purchaser. Proof of purchase is required for all warranty claims.
Warranty claims are handled directly with Hogtunes. Products found to be
defective during the warranty period will be replaced (with a product
deemed to be equivalent) at Hogtunes sole discretion.
What Is Not Covered:
1) Any expense related to the removal or re-installation of Hogtunes products.
2) Repairs to these products performed by anyone other than Hogtunes.
3) Subsequent damage to any other components.
4) Any product purchased from a non-authorized Hogtunes dealer.
5) Damage to Hogtunes products due to an accident or collision.
6) Paint applied to any part, for any reason.
7) Speaker frames (baskets) that are bent.
8) Speaker cones that are pierced or cut.
9) Damage caused by over tightening, or not using supplied fasteners.
10) Damage from use of Thread lock type materials of any kind.
Hogtunes #692-XL Speakers
Power Handling: 200 Watts
Frequency Response: 30hz-25Khz
Sensitivity : 96 db 1watt/1meter
Nominal Impedance: 2.0 Ohms
7
IMPORTANT: In the event of a warranty claim, please fill
out the form in the Warranty section of our website
www.hogtunes.com. Valid claims will have a Return
Authorization Number (RA#) generated which MUST appear
on the outside of the box when it arrives to our offices.
Goods Arriving Without An RA# Will Be Refused!

Once you’re satisfied the wires are ghost run as instructed, you will want to
plan where the adhesive pads will go, so that zip ties can secure the wires
inside the bag. Note: Before applying the pads, you need to clean the plastic
well using 99% isopropyl alcohol, or similar cleaner. DO NOT use Acetone
(It will eat plastic). Do not apply pads until cleaner is completely evaporated.
With the pads in place, secure the wires in place using supplied zip ties.
Routing the speaker wire harness:
The long supplied harness with 4 wires has 2-2 pin plugs on one end, and a
single 4 pin plug on the other. In all cases, the end with the 4 pin plug will go
nearest the amp you’re using which typically will be your fairing.
For FLH (Batwing) Models. The harness will pass under the inner fairing
where the main wire harness passes through on the brake side of the bike.
For FLTR (Road Glide) Models, the harness will pass through the inner fairing
where the factory wires pass. Loosen the tank console and run wires up and
over the gas tank, but under the tank console. There is a provision on the
front of the tank console for wires to pass. Note: You “can” lift the tank if
you want but it is not required. Once past the battery, the harness will
continue towards the back of the bike along the frame, and when correctly
installed, the 2-2pin plugs will be beside the back seat on the brake side of
the bike. Secure the harness to the bikes factory harness’ using zip ties. Plug
the brake side lid in. Run the clutch side under the seat and plug it in.
Wiring the lids to your amp:
The 4 pin connector will plug into any Hogtunes REV Series amp or
Hogtunes branded 4 channel amp. If your using another brand of amp, you
will see that the wires near the 4 plug are labeled. Simply cut the plug off and
wire the lids to your amp using the labels.
Final Notes (Please Read) The speakers magnet is large and powerful. Credit
cards and electronics can be sensitive to magnets, so please use caution on
how you pack your saddlebags. Metal objects packed into your bags may end
up stuck to the magnet, so please use caution when opening your bags. The
magnet can get hot! Please consider this when packing your saddlebags. The
woofer portion of the 6x9 was designed to perform best with saddlebags
empty, or near empty.
6
Disassembling The Factory Lid: As you disassemble your factory lid, please
make note of what screws came from where as they will be re-used. Open
the factory lid and you will see 2 “T15” torx screws on the “bag side” of the
cloth tether that holds the lid to the bag. Remove these 2 screws, move the
cloth tether out of the way, and you will see 2 more of the same screws
which also need to be removed. The lid is now free from the bag. Remove
the 2 screws that hold the “key lock” to the factory lid. The chrome panel
with the reflector built in comes off the factory lid by removing the 3 screws
right next to the key lock. At its seam, the factory foam gasket needs to be
peeled up enough to allow the rest of the hinge mechanism to be removed
from the factory lid. There are 2x “T20” torx screws that hold the balance of
the hinge mechanism to the plastic of the lid. Remove these screws and put
hinge mechanism aside.
Remove the T15 screw that holds the opening handle in place and pull the
handle away from the factory lid. Remove the last 4x T15 screws securing the
large latching mechanism to the underside of the factory lid. This entire
mechanism is now removed. Put your factory lid aside.
The large latching mechanism just removed will now be installed into the
Hogtunes lid using the factory screws just removed. You will need to jostle
the mechanism gently to get it in place. As shown above (Fig 1.3), the 4 main
screws on the mechanism are the ones to do first. Install the factory handle
to the new lid using the factory screw. Next, the 2 screws will go back in on
the hinge side followed by 3 screws that secure the chrome cover with
reflector. Do not put in the 2 screws that hold the lock in place just yet.
3
Factory Latching Mechanism
Installed in New Lid
(Lid Shown In White For Contrast)
4 Main Screws
Fig 1.3
Gasket Seam Starts Here
Black Phillips Head Screw for
Grill Goes Here
IMPORTANT: Do not use power tools of any kind while reassembling
the lids! All fasteners should be installed with HAND TOOLS ONLY!

The lids come with soft black silicone gaskets that go between the speakers
and the lids, and MUST be installed correctly to keep water out. One side of
the gaskets have a grove on the inside, and the other side have a groove on
the outside. On the underside of the lid , you will see a “lip” that goes around
the speaker opening. The side of the gasket with the groove on the inside will
“mate” to the lip around the speaker opening on the lid. On the speaker itself,
you will see a “lip” that goes around the perimeter of the speakers steel
frame. The side of the gasket with the groove on the outside will “mate” to
the lip around the speaker. IMPORTANT. The “end” of the speaker with the
small circuit board and speaker connectors must be placed so they are closest
to the REAR of the lid! Please take a moment to check that the gasket is sitting
correctly on the lid, and the speaker is sitting correctly on the gasket before
securing the speaker to the lid using the supplied silver Phillips pan head
screws.
Take the lid to the saddlebag, and using the factory screws, secure the hinge
on your lid to the bag. When done, the other half of the cloth tether will
attach to the saddlebag using the factory screws.
Attach the connectors on the wire harness to the speaker. The speakers wire
needs to go around to the other side of the lid close to the key lock. You can
use supplied zipties to secure the wire to the speakers steel frame. Note: It’s a
good idea to cut zipties off “flush” so there are no sharp edges.
Included in the kit is adhesive “pads” that when attached, have a provision to
secure the wires in place using the supplied zip ties. Split the adhesive pads
into 2 equal groups—one group per bag.
Its time to route the wires in the saddlebag. Please do a “ghost run” of
placing the wires before applying any adhesives. This will help, trust us!
Locate the long supplied wire harnesses noting they are labeled brake side
and clutch side. Attach the “wire end” to your 6x9 using your own
connectors that fit correctly-noting the wire that comes from us with the
smaller connector is the positive. For the ghost run, have the wire from your
6x9 go straight to the bag, and “fold” the wire so it will naturally want to go
straight down. Leave a little slack between the lid and bag to give a little
“wiggle room” for when the lid opens and closes. Have the wire go straight
down to the bottom of the bag and do another fold so the wire wants to point
to the outside back of the saddlebag. Once there, do another fold to point the
wire to the inside back of the saddle bag. Another fold to point the wire
forward along the bottom of the bag, and directly below the point where you
drilled the hole for the grommet, do another fold so the wire goes straight up
to the hole. When done correctly, the black 2 pin plug can go through the
grommet hole, and hang out approximately 4” (10cm)
5
Before applying the supplied rubber gasket you will need to clean the area the
gasket will stick to. Use a mild cleaner such as 99% Isopropyl alcohol, but
nothing aggressive like Acetone as acetone will destroy the lid.
Once the cleaner is completely dry, start applying the gasket so the seam will
be at the same point the factory gasket had as shown in Fig 1.3 on previous
page. Minor stretching may be needed to get the gasket around the
corners but don't over do it, as over stretched areas may become a place
water can enter! When all the way around, you can expect a bit of gasket left
over which can be cut off using a sharp razor knife. Make sure the adhesive
portion of the gasket is stuck to the bottom portion of the trough all the way
around. Once the gasket is applied and cut to size, re install the 2 factory
screws that hold the key lock in place.
With the lid painted side up, sit the metal mesh grill into place using the
tongue on the grill and the groove on the lid. USING A HAND TOOL, install the
black Phillips screw as shown in Fig 1.3 on previous page.
With the grill in place, flip the lid back over and locate one of the black plastic
filler pieces (shown in Fig 1.4 below) that come packaged in the bag with this
manual. You will see a groove on the filler piece that mates to the lid. Locate
the black gummy material that came in the kit and take one strip, roll it in your
fingers so its close to uniform thickness and apply across entire groove. The
groove is highlighted by arrows in Fig 1.4 below.
Press the filler piece into the lid as shown by the large circle in Fig 1.5 above.
With the filler piece in place, take another black gummy strip and tear off 2
short strips about 3/8” (9mm) each. Squish each piece across the small seam
where the filler piece meets the lid on the plane the speaker will sit on as
shown by the small circles in Fig 1.5. Adding the gummy material between
filler piece and lid is an added failsafe for helping with water.
4
Flat Side
See gasket profile. The gasket needs to be applied so the
flat side is adjacent to the outside of the lid!
Fig 1.4 Fig 1.5
Black Gummy Material
Goes In Groove
Filler Piece