ibis Moja HD3 User manual

INSTRUCTION
BOOK
Notes on Tuning and Maintenance of Ibis Bicycles, Rev. E

Instruction Manual
Notes on Tuning and Maintenance of Ibis Bicycles, Rev. E
Reprinting Permitted if Source Quoted

2 3
INTRODUCTION
Salutations
This Set-Up Guide will help you with assembly
tips, get you started on adjusting the suspension,
maintaining your frame and explain how to
perform basic mechanical jobs.
This guide does not attempt to address full bike
assembly, fitting, brake and shifting set-up, riding
techniques etc. Please utilize a professional
level service for these items to get the best
performance and enjoyment from your Ibis.
This Set-Up Guide is also available online with
enhanced functions and additional information:
http://tinyurl.com/lput6oh
Information on legacy Ibis models available at:
http://tinyurl.com/lput6oh
CONTENTS
2
4–5
6–7
8–27
8–23
28–31
32–33
34–37
38–39
40 –41
42–44
46
48–53
54
54
56
57
58–59
Introduction
Build
Geometry/Quick Specs
Sizing Guide
Bike Setup Tips and Tricks
Cable Routing
Ride
Fork Setup
Fork Air Pressure Chart
Rear Shock Set-Up
Rear Shock Air Pressure Chart
Maintain
Bearing maintenance and Replacement
Frame Hardware Drawings
(Part Numbers and Exploded Views)
Frame Hardware Torque Spec Chart
Swingarm Removal
Warranty/Warranty Registration
Serial Number
Chuck’s Recipe
Contact Info
Index with Video Links

G
4 5
FRAME GEOMETRY CHART
Size Small Medium Large X-Large
Seattube A 14.5” 16.5” 18.5” 20.5”
Toptube B 580 mm 600 mm 620 mm 640 mm
Headtube C 85 mm 105 mm 117 mm 132 mm
Chainstay D 430 mm 430 mm 430 mm 430 mm
Seat Angle E 73.6° 72.6° 72.6° 72.6°
Head Angle F 66.6° 66.6° 66.6° 66.6°
Wheelbase G 1135 mm 1146 mm 1168 mm 1189 mm
Stack 580 mm 599 mm 610 mm 624 mm
Reach 411 mm 414 mm 431 mm 446 mm
Size Small Medium Large X-Large
Seattube A 15” 17” 19” 21”
Toptube B 564 mm 584 mm 605 mm 625 mm
Headtube C 78 mm 94 mm 100mm 107 mm
Chainstay D 422 mm 422 mm 422 mm 422 mm
Seat Angle E 73° 73° 73° 73°
Head Angle F 70° 70° 70° 70°
Wheelbase G 1131mm 1142mm 1164mm 1185mm
Stack 599 mm 615 mm 620 mm 627 mm
Reach 379 mm 397 mm 413 mm 432 mm
Mojo HD 3 Ripley 29
• 650b (27.5”) wheels
• 150mm rear wheel dw-link travel
• Approved for 150-160mm forks
• 67º head angle with a 150mm fork ( 66.6º with 160mm fork)
• Super versatile internal cable routing
• Optional polycarbonate down tube cable guard
• Chain stay length: 16.9”
• Threaded bottom bracket (68mm English thread)
• ISCG 05 compatible with removable adapter
• Tapered head tube and steerer, ZS44 upper, ZS56 lower
• 12 x 142mm Maxle rear axle
• 160mm post mount left dropout, carbon ber
• 29” wheels
• 120mm rear wheel dw-link travel
• Approved for 120-140mm forks, 32 or 34 stanchion
• 70º head angle with a 120mm fork (68.5º with 140mm fork)
• Super versatile internal cable routing
• Chain stay length: 17.4”
• BB92/Press GXP style integrated Bottom Bracket
• High direct mount front derailleur on swingarm
• Tapered head tube and steerer: ZS44 upper, EC49 lower
• 12 x 142mm Maxle rear axle
• 160mm post mount left dropout, carbon ber
FRAME GEOMETRY CHART
Size Small Medium Large X-Large
Seattube A 14.5” 17” 19” 21”
Toptube B 564 mm 584 mm 605 mm 625 mm
Headtube C 78 mm 94 mm 100 mm 115 mm
Chainstay D 435 mm 435 mm 435 mm 435 mm
Seat Angle E 73° 73° 73° 73°
Head Angle F 71° 71° 71° 71°
Wheelbase G 1045 mm 1066 mm 1087 mm 1107 mm
Stack 607 mm 622 mm 628.5 mm 642 mm
Reach 378 mm 393 mm 411 mm 437 mm
Size 47 50 53 55 58 61
Seattube A 470 mm 500 mm 530 mm 550 mm 580 mm 610 mm
Toptube B 520 mm 530 mm 540 mm 555 mm 570 mm 590 mm
Headtube C 100 mm 115 mm 135 mm 155 mm 175 mm 195 mm
Chainstay D 430 mm 430 mm 430 mm 430 mm 430 mm 430 mm
Seat Angle E 74.5° 74° 73.5° 73° 73° 73°
Head Angle F 70.5° 71° 71.5° 71.5° 71.5° 71.5°
Wheelbase G 1007 mm 1009 mm 1011 mm 1024 mm 1037 mm 1057 mm
Stack 523 mm 538 mm 559 mm 578 mm 596 mm 616 mm
Reach 373 mm 374 mm 374 mm 377 mm 387 mm 400 mm
Tranny 29 Hakkalügi Disc 700cc
• 29” wheels
• Approved for 120-140mm forks, 32 or 34 stanchion
• 71º head angle with a 100mm fork (70º with 120 fork)
• Super versatile internal cable routing
• Provision for cable-actuated adjustable seat posts
• Chain stay length: 17.1”
• Single speed and belt drive compatible
• BB92/Press GXP style integrated Bottom Bracket
• High direct mount front derailleur
• Tapered head tube and steerer: ZS44 upper, EC49 lower
• 12 x 142mm Maxle rear axle
• 160mm post mount left dropout, carbon ber
• 700c wheels
• Trail: 67mm @ 71.5º head angle, 70mm @ 71º and 73mm @ 70.5º
• Chain stay length: 16.9”
• BB86 Press Fit Bottom Bracket
• 34.9mm top pull front derailleur
• Tapered head tube: IS 41/28.6 upper, IS 52/40 lower
• 135mm rear dropout spacing
• Post mount for rear disc brake 140mm

6 7
FRAME SIZING GUIDE FRAME SIZING GUIDE
Ibis Cyclocross Bike Sizing Guide
FRAME SIZE HEIGHT/IN HEIGHT/CM
47 4’11” – 5’2” 150 – 157
50 5’0” – 5’4” 150 – 157
53 5’3” – 5’8” 150 – 157
55 5’7” – 5’11” 150 – 157
58 5’10” – 6’2” 150 – 157
61 6’1” – 6’6” 150 – 157
Ibis Mountain Bike Sizing Guide
FRAME SIZE HEIGHT/IN HEIGHT/CM
Small 5’0” – 5’5” 152 – 165
Medium 5’4” – 5’9” 163 – 175
Large 5’9” – 6’2” 175 – 188
X-Large 6’0” – 6’6” 183 – 198

8 9
BIKE SET-UP TIPS AND TRICKS
Ripley Routing
BIKE SET-UP TIPS AND TRICKS
Ripley Routing
This information is shown in a video:
http://tinyurl.com/qbv9y46
Internal routing is provided for the derailleur
cable housing, and for a mechanical dropper
cable if you’re not running a front derailleur
(otherwise the dropper cable is external).
The housing needs to be fished through the
frame before you mount the fork. The housing
provided in Ibis build kits is a little longer than
you need and works fine as a pilot. With no
fork installed, insert the housing into the cable
exit hole that is under the upper shock mount.
When the cable gets to the head tube, use
your finger to guide the cable through the front
access hole. We recommend that the rear
derailleur cable goes in the left access holes.

10 11
BIKE SET-UP TIPS AND TRICKS
Ripley Routing
BIKE SET-UP TIPS AND TRICKS
Ripley Routing
To keep the cable quiet inside the frame,
there are a couple methods. The first:
Install three zip ties on the housing about
an inch apart, so that they will be located
in the middle of the tube when the cable
is installed in the frame (to do this, pull the
housing out of the top tube and through
the top of the head tube about 2 feet,
then install the zip ties). Point the zip ties in
different directions. Do not cut the tail off
the zip tie.
When you insert the housing with zip ties
into the frame, the zip ties will prevent the
cable from rattling inside the frame. The
cables need to cross inside the toptube.
The rear derailleur cable should enter the
left side of the head tube and exit the
frame on the right.
The second method is a nifty ‘hack’ one
of our dealers showed us. In place of the
zip ties, use a piece of 7/16” OD, 1/4”
ID closed cell EPDM foam tubing. You
can nd it at McMaster-Carr, part number
4339T1. Simply slide about 12” of foam
over each of the cables inside the top tube
and you’ll accomplish the same thing as the
zip ties.
Build the bike with the cables dangling,and
when you are ready, feed the derailleur
cable through the housing. Once you’ve
got your cables routed through the upper
shock mount area (up to four cables), you
have two choices in how to proceed.
You can use our nifty Ripley Dice, a clean
system to hold all the Ripley cables snug
and guide them where they need to go.
The dice have letters indicating which way
is forward, and also which cable goes
where. FD=Front derailleur, RD=Rear
Derailleur, SP=Dropper Seatpost and
BR=Rear Brake. Simply install the dice over
the cable, push it up as close to where the
cables exit the top tube and then snug the
3mm allen. Alternatively, if you don’t have
one of our dice, you can put a zip tie super
snug around the cables right where they
exit that area. The front derailleur cable
should be routed on the inside of the
clevis. The second tie above the middle
of the shock should be used on the rear
derailleur and rear brake only. It should
be very tight too. It keeps the casings from
bowing out sideways during suspension
movement.
Don’t capture the dropper post cable or
FD casing with that 2nd tie over the
mid shock, as they don’t move with the
suspension. The FD cable should be run as
directly as possible and zip tied (loosely)
to the rear der. cable along the clevis.
See illustration on page 9.

12 13
BIKE SET-UP TIPS AND TRICKS
Ripley Routing
A Note on Ripley Routing
Depending on how the cables are routed
through the head tube of your Ripley,
you may see evidence of cable rub on
the steerer. This mainly applies to Ripleys
shipped in the first half of 2013.
Ibis is manufacturing a shield for the steerer
to prevent this steerer rub. The shield is put
on the steerer about 2” up from the crown
race. It’s easy to check to see if your
Ripley has one of these by peering down
the head tube with the stem and upper
headset parts removed. If your Ripley does
not have one, please contact us and we’ll
send you one.
Ripley
Deraillleur and Brake Cable Routing
BIKE SET-UP TIPS AND TRICKS
Mojo HD3 Routing
Cable Routing Ports
The illustration below shows the various
ports we have available for the HD3
and Tranny29.
A Note for UK/AU/NZ/ZA Folk
and Some Motorcycle Riders…
Your brake levers are most likely set up opposite
to the rest of the world i.e. front brake on the
right-hand side of the handlebars, and rear brake
on the left-hand side.
For you folks, we recommend you route the rear
brake line directly from the lever on the left-hand
side of the handlebar to the left side of the
down tube, attaching it using existing guides.
The line will have a slightly tighter radius than it
would otherwise but that is OK. Be sure to leave
sufficient line so the handlebars can rotate in the
event of a crash. If necessary, use clear adhesive
dots to prevent the line rubbing on the head tube.
Depending on the configuration of your bike,
a second more complicated option may be
possible if you’re not using either a front derailleur
or internally routed dropper post. Route the rear
brake line inside the down tube. The line enters
the frame at the port on the top right of the down
tube, and exits at the port on the lower left. Walk
this DIY path alone, and be prepared to bleed
your brakes after the cables are routed. You will
also need to use our hydro line port.

14 15
BIKE SET-UP TIPS AND TRICKS
Mojo HD3 Routing
BIKE SET-UP TIPS AND TRICKS
Mojo HD3 Routing
The most common setup these days
is a 1X drivetrain with an internally
mounted dropper. We spec the
KS LEV Integra.
We generally recommend you run
your brake on the exterior, along
the left side of the down tube.
The Mojo HD3 uses our new versatile
cable port system for cable routing.
We have several port styles available,
depending on your drivetrain and
dropper configuration.
Mojo HD3
Driveside Cable Routing
Mojo HD3
Non-Driveside Cable Routing

16 17
BIKE SET-UP TIPS AND TRICKS
Mojo HD3 Routing
BIKE SET-UP TIPS AND TRICKS
Mojo HD3 Routing
Mojo HD3
Dropper Cable Routing
Mojo HD3
Derailleur Cable Routing A Note on Reverb Dropper Routing
The Reverb dropper routing we prefer is not
illustrated, but we’ll describe it for you. You
need three of our Hydro cable stops. Route the
Reverb into the left side of the down tube (it’s a
single port) using our hydro port. Use two other
hydro ports at the bottom left side of the down
tube and seat tube, and fish the dropper tubing
through to the seat tube. Connect as normal.
If you’re using Shimano’s new side pull front
derailleur, route it through the drive side of the
down tube and then out at the bottom of the
drive side. For top mount front derailleurs use
the top tube for entry and exit for the derailleur
cable. Note that you have the choice of full
housing or interrupted derailleur housing with
our versatile port configurations.
For droppers that use cable and housing, such
as the KS LEV, route the housing according to
the illustrations.