ibis Mojo Carbon User manual

Congrats on your purchase of an Ibis Mojo Carbon.
At Ibis we think you should be spending a lot more time riding your bike and a lot
less time working on your bike. We’ve designed the Mojo with that in mind. First, two
requests:
1) Read this guide!
2) Perform the proper setup!
You’ll be glad you did. After the initial
tuning, there shouldn’t be a whole lot
to do to keep the Mojo humming
along for a long time.
The carbon fiber monocoque frame is extremely strong, and should provide years of
trouble-free use, provided you care for it properly and don’t overly huck every 50 foot
gap you see.
Mojo Carbon Paint
There is a protective clear coat applied over the carbon weave. Although painted with
high-quality polyurethane enamel, it is subject to scratching and can wear through with
repeated rubbing of cables or chain slap. You have been provided with a set of ad-
hesive vinyl protectors to guard against cable rub and chain slap. After the bike is
fully assembled move the bike through its suspension travel and apply the circular vinyl
pieces to the frame so that the cables rub the vinyl not the clearcoat. There is a clear
vinyl chainstay protector on the Mojo Carbon. We also have an aftermarket neoprene
chainstay protector manufactured for us by LizardSkins available online at the Ibis store
or from your Ibis dealer.
Keep your bike clean, and inspect it often. Although each and every bike gets tested at
the factory for strength, it never hurts to look at the areas where the 'tubes' join, where
the shocks and dropouts mount and any other areas that may receive stress during us-
age. Check for loose bearings, headsets, shocks and forks and such. Visually inspect
the bike before each ride and also during each cleaning.
Put your freshly cleaned mojo in a workstand.
Remove the front derailleur and the cranks.
Working on the links is much easier without
the shock, so remove the bolts that hold the
shock in place with two 4 mm and two 6 mm
Allen wrenches.
Rotate the swingarm up to
gain better access and remove
the upper link screws at the
seattube using a 5 mm Allen
wrench.
Remove the upper links from the
front triangle. It may take a bit of
cajoling to get it removed from the
shaft that’s in the frame. It’ll help
to slightly spread the stays of the
swingarm apart to get the links off.
Remove the axle in the lower link that
passes through the front triangle with
two 6 mm Allen wrenches.
Pull the swing arm and the
lower link away from the front
triangle. It may take a bit of
cajoling to get it removed from
the shaft thats in the frame. Try
to pull more or less straightly
backwards.
Notice that the two upper links are being
pulled across the seat tube where the front
derailleur mounts.
Remove the axle in the lower link
that passes through the swingarm
using two 5 mm Allen wrenches
and detach the lower link from
the swingarm. It may take a bit of
cajoling to get it removed from the
shaft that’s in the frame.
Remove the remaining
screws in the upper links
of the swingarm with a 5
mm Allen wrench as well.
CONGRATS! You have your mojo in pieces
now.
01 06
02
07
03 08
04
09
05
10
SWINGARM REMOVAL
CABLE ROUTING
Rear Derailleur
Rear Brake
Front Derailleur
Piece of Innertube
Here’s a little advice on how to set up the cabling on your Mojo. The derail-
leur housing and rear brake hydraulic hose can be routed around the op-
posite side of the stem. The length of housing between the rear top tube stop
and the upper swing arm stop for the rear derailleur should be kept as short
as possible to keep it from bowing out and contacting your leg.
CARE AND FEEDING
INTRODUCTION
BOTTLECAGE
SETUP GUIDE
There are two heavy duty Riv-Nut inserts on the underside of the down tube to allow the
mounting of a bottle cage. We’ve put it there primarily for a spare water bottle, a tool kit
or for a battery if you’re night riding.
Please don’t attempt to retrieve a water bottle from this cage location
during riding!
There are extra long socket head screws provided for you use in these holes. They are
longer than your average screw. We suggest using a heavy-duty cage for holding bat-
teries since the lighter weight cages don‘t seem to hold up to this sort of abuse.
Chu ck I bis
To reassamble your bike follow the steps 01 to 10 in reverse order.
Remember to use a little loctite blue thread locker on all fasteners during reassembly
otherwise all your pretty bits will be strewn along the trail.
We’ve chosen a nice little medley of components for you in our SX, XT XTR and WTF
groups. If you choose not to use our kits and want to build from scratch, here’s a bit of
info to help you on your shopping spree:
COMPONENTS
The Mojos (both Carbon and SL) are designed for a
140mm travel front fork, but 130 through 160mm travel
forks also work well. The fork that comes with the Mojo
Carbon is the Fox Float RLC with 140mm travel, or the
130 mm Manitou MRD in the WTF Group.
The Mojo Carbon uses the in-
tegrated headset based on the
Cane Creek IS standard (aka the
36° / 45° or 41 mm standard). These
are available from Cane Creek and prob-
ably others. On our kits we use the Cane
Creek IS2.
Disk brake only, with an international standard mounting.
The seatpost diameter is 31.6 mm.
Your Ibis seat tube comes pre-treated
with a coating of non-conductive LPS-1 lubricant
to protect the frame and seatpost against corrosion. If your bike
is frequently wet, you might consider treating the frame / seatpost a few
times a year.
We do not recommend using grease on your seatpost in an Ibis Carbon
frame. We do recommend using either the FSA or the Tacx Carbon Assem-
bly Compounds. Not only are they corrosion inhibitors, they also contain
a suspension of microscopic plastic beads which increase friction, thus de-
creasing the clamping force needed to secure the seatpost.
The Mojo Carbon uses a 34.9 mm top
pull, bottom swing derailleur.
At the beginning of this setup guide, we mentioned that we were believers in the ride-
your-bike-more/work-on-your-bike-less school of thought. In this section of pivot bear-
ing replacement, that philosophy shows.
The pivot assemblies on the Mojo Carbon are designed to easily removed and re-
placed. We send you new pivots before you take your old ones out, so there is almost
no downtime for the maintenance. No bearings to press out or axles hammer. A couple
of hex keys and a little twisting and the whole assembly is ready for replacement.
New upper and lower pivot assemblies are available in the »buy« section of our web-
site, or you can have your dealer order them from Ibis for you. Replacement is super
simple requiring no special tools:
We recommend you use a piece innertube about 3 cm long, feeding the rear
brake and derailleur cables through it just behind the seat tube as shown.
Be prepared to support the swing arm once it is removed from the front end of the
bike.
Note: We recommend removing the shock completely when working on the links,
the additional swing arm movement that is possible with the shock removed greatly
facilitates working on the suspension bits. As mentioned, it’s best to remove the front
derailleur too. We suggest taking the civilized route outlined below.
2 x 4 mm Allen wrenches
2 x 6 mm Allen wrenches
2 x 5 mm Allen wrenches
small hammer
loctite blue thread locker
tunes &/or refreshments (why suffer?)

This part is really important. With the purchase of your new Ibis Mojo Carbon, you have
hopefully been provided with a manual for your shock. If not, please ask your dealer to
provide you with one, as each bike is shipped with a shock tuning guide courtesy our
friends at Fox or DT Swiss depending on the shock you’re using. Their guides are excel-
lent, so we suggest you use these as a guide for properly tuning your new bike. However,
if you don’t have one, here are a few basics we recommend for the initial setup so you
can get started.
SHOCK SETUP
DERAILLEUR HANGAR REPLACEMENT
Sometimes the derailleur hangar gets bent and needs to be replaced. It’s not a bad idea
to order an extra and carry a spare. Do we really need to tell you how to do replace
this bit? We didn’t think so.
Ibis Cycles warrants Ibis frames to be free from defects in materials and workmanship
for a period of 3 years from date of sale. This limited warranty applies to the original
owner and is nontransferable. Ibis will, at its sole discretion, repair or replace any frame
or component that it determines to be defective.
This warranty does not cover normal wear and tear, nor does it apply to damage that is
the result of abuse, neglect, improper assembly, improper maintenance, alteration, mis-
use or massive hucking. The costs of disassembly, reassembly or repair of any attached
components are not covered by this warranty and are the responsibility of the original
owner. Under no circumstance are the costs of shipping to or from Ibis covered by this
limited warranty.
This warranty applies exclusively to Ibis bicycles manufactured after July 1, 2005.
NO FAULT REPLACEMENT
Should your Ibis be involved in a crash or other non-warranty situation, Ibis Cycles
will make replacement parts available at a minimum charge to the original owner. Ibis
Cycles does this at its sole discretion and reserves the right to refuse this offer, so don‘t
go crashing your bike on purpose. We already know that one.
Unless otherwise provided, the sole remedy under the above warranty, or any implied
warranty, is limited to the replacement of defective parts with those of equal or greater
value at the sole discretion of Ibis Cycles. In no event shall Ibis Cycles be held responsible
for direct, incidental or consequential damages, including, without limitation, damages
for personal injury, property damage, or economic losses, whether based on contract,
warranty, negligence, product liability, or any other theory.
WARRANTY REGISTRATION
Don’t forget to register your warranty online at www.ibiscycles.com/waranty_reg
SERIAL NUMBER
We recommend you write down your serial number for future reference. It‘s located
under the bottom bracket. Do it now. It‘ll be a lot easier than calling us and having us
go through our records.
Here’s a complete parts listing for Mojo Carbon. Find these online at the 'buy' portion
our website or get them directly from your Ibis dealer. Contact us or your dealer for
more info.
IBIS WARRANTY
REBOUND
The RP23 has adjustable rebound damping. It’s adjusted by turning the clicker on
the inside of the propedal adjust lever. Turning the red clicker clockwise slows the
rebound, and counterclockwise achieves faster rebound. Generally you want it as
fast as you can set it without getting bounced off the saddle after a bump or drop.
The number of clicks to achieve this changes depending on the main spring air
pressure. Experiment. It’s easy, fun and profitable. Ok, maybe not profitable.
PROPEDAL
ProPedal is a damping system used by Fox to reduce pedal-induced suspension
bob. The Mojo is good at minimizing pedal suspension bob due to the design of
the DW Link suspension, but even with the Mojo there are situations where you
might want to use some ProPedal.
ProPedal is turned on or off with the simple movement of an easily accessible
lever. You can run the shock open (lever to the right), or with one of the three
ProPedal settings on the RP23 (ProPedal lever to the left, and the three settings
are adjusted by pulling out and turning the outer blue knob on top of the lever).
ProPedal is OFF in the picture above.
For off road use a good all around setting is # 1. You can then either leave it on
for the descent or flip the lever to the drive side of the bike to turn the ProPedal
off resulting in a smoother descent. If you are riding on the road or doing a lot
of out of the saddle climbing off road the #2 position works well. For out of the
saddle sprinting try ProPedal setting #3 for a near lock-out. Again, it’s a matter of
personal preference, so please experiment.
REBOUND
The DT Swiss XR Carbon has adjustable rebound damping.
It’s adjusted by turning the clicker at the top of the shock
just behind the forward eyelet. Generally you should set
the rebound such that the return to open speed is as fast
as you can make it without getting bounced back up out of
the saddle much after a small drop done seated.
LOCK-OUT
The DT Swiss XR Carbon shock is also equipped with a
lock-out lever located at the top of the air canister. Flip the
lever to the left to lock-out the shock, or flip it to the right
to open it up. Be careful, the lock-out on the DT XR will
transform your 5.5“ full suspension bike into a hardtail!
Great for chasing cars etc.
SAG
To set the sag, you need to set the air pressure in the
rear shock. With the DHX Air, you should start with
0.50 inches (12 mm) of sag. Sit on your bike in a nor-
mal riding position. Reach down and slide the O ring
up the shock shaft against the wiper seal. Next, gently
step off of the bike taking care not to further compress
the suspension.
REBOUND
The DHX AIR has adjustable rebound damping. It’s ad-
justed by turning the clicker just below the upper eyelet
mount.
Turning the red clicker clockwise slows the rebound,
and counterclockwise achieves faster rebound. Gener-
ally you want it as fast as you can set it without getting
bounced off the saddle after a bump or drop. The num-
ber of clicks to achieve this changes depending on the
main spring air pressure. There are 22 clicks of adjust-
ment. Start in the middle and experiment from there.
PROPEDAL
ProPedal is a damping system used by Fox to reduce
pedal-induced suspension bob. The Mojo is good at
minimizing pedal suspension bob due to the design of
the DW Link suspension,but even with t he Mojo there are
situations where you might want to use some ProPedal.
ProPedal is adjusted using the blue dial at the top of the
reservoir.
Clockwise adjustment increases ProPedal, and vice ver-
sa. There are 15 clicks of adjustment. Adjust it to where
you like it.
BOTTOM OUT RESISTANCE
The DHX Air has an added feature of Bottom Out resis-
tance. This can be set by a knob adjuster at the bottom
of the reservoir. There are three rotations of adjustment
available. Start with a maximum pressure in the Schrad-
er boost valve of 125 psi.
For more bottom out resistance, turn the knob clockwise,
it might help to use a 4mm Hex key inserted in the holes
in the knob if you have difficulty moving it by hand.
Here are some tips to get you started. First you need to
set the sag. Use the calender on the upper right to set the
air pressure and then take a sag reading (the air cap is at
the top of the left fork leg under a cap). Fine tune the sag
depending on your style of riding. Use 5 lb. PSI adjust-
ments to get it to the place you want it.
Rebound damping, lockout and compression damp-
ing are all adjusted via the knobs at the top of the
right fork leg. The blowoff threshold is adjusted at
the bottom of the right leg. There’s a tremendous
amount of adjustability with this fork, so don’t hesi-
tate to experiment. Again, read the manual!
The settings and procedures for the MRD forks are much the same. Start with 35-45% of
the rider’s weight in the main air spring, or sag of about 10-20% of travel.
Tip: The air valve on a Manitou MRD fork is
located at the bottom of the left (non-drive side)
fork leg. When removing a shock pump from
the air valve it is possible that a small amount
of lubricant will be expelled. As the air valve
is adjacent to your disk brake rotor it is advis-
able to wrap the rotor with a CLEAN rag to
prevent the expelled lubricant from getting on
the rotor.
The MRD forks have Absolute Damping, and
a simple turn of the knob located on the top
right leg is all that is needed to add platform
to the system. Turning the knob clockwise (as
you are looking from the rider‘s position) in-
creases platform incrementally from an open
position to what is essentially a closed posi-
tion for increased efficiency, while turning the
knob counterclockwise decreases the amount
of platform.
We supply our complete bikes with either a Fox Float RLC or
a Manitou MRD. Here are some facts to get you started:
FORK SETUP
PARTS
www.ibiscycles.com
Ibis Cycles, Inc. 340F El Pueblo Dr., Scotts Valley, CA 95066 USA
Tel: 1.866.424.7635
Item Description QTY
01 203784-Brace-UpperLink-Ibis 1
02 203812-Shaft-Pivot-Lower-FT 1
03 203813-Nut-Pivot-Shaft-Lower-FT 1
04 203828-LowerLink-M6-Washer 1
05 203830-Bolt-Button-M8 4
06 203888-Pin-Upper-Shockeye 1
07 203889-Washer-M6-IMMT 2
08 203894-M6-Pin-LowerLink-SA 1
09 M8x60-SHCS-Bolt 1
10 Ibis-Assy-LowerLink 1
11 Ibis-Assy-UpperLink 2
12 M5-LO-SHCS-Bolt 2
13 M6-LO-SHCS-Bolt 1
14 Seat-Binder 1
15 Shock-Reducer-FOX-UpperPivot 2
16 203810-Derailleur-Hanger 1
01
02
03
04
05 06
07
08
09
10
11
12
13
14
15
16
05
05
05
11
12 07
15
FOx RP23 SETTINGS
FOx DHx AIR SETTINGS
DT SWISS xR CARBON SETTINGS
First, here’s Fox’s picture of the shock, we will refer to some of the parts named here:
First, here’s Fox’s picture of the shock, we will refer to some of the parts named
here:
Bottom-Out Resistance
ProPedal Adjustment
Rebound Adjustment
Schrader Valve
Schrader Boost Valve
ProPedal Lever ProPedal Adjustment
Rebound Adjustment
Schrader Valve
Lock-Out Lever
Rebound AdjustmentSchrader Valve (Backside)
FOx FLOAT RLC SETTINGS
MANITOU MINUTE MRD SETTINGS
Proud owner - r ide more, work les s!
First, here’s DT’s picture of the shock, we will refer to some of
the parts named here:
1) Percentage of body weight.
If you’re using a Fox RP 23, s tart with an init ial air pressure in t he shock
of approximately 90% of your body weight. you can vary it in 5 or
10 psi increments to see what you like the best. Lower pressures will
give a softer ride with the bike set ting further i nto it‘s travel, higher
pressures reduce sag and produce a firmer ride. If you’re using the
DT Swiss XR Carbon, start with 80-85% of body weig ht and vary it in
5 psi increments to achieve your desired r ide.
2) Sit on it
This method works on any shock. Compatible shocks will have a
7.875” (200 mm) overall length and 2” (51 mm) of travel (leverage ra-
tio is 2.8:1). Sit on your bike in a normal riding position. Reach down
and slide the O ring up the shock shaf t against the wipe r seal. Next,
gently step off of the bike taking care not to further compres s the
suspension. The distance from the O r ing to the wiper seal should be
about 10 - 13 mm for XC type riding and 13 - 15 mm for more aggres-
sive off road riding.
TWO WAYS FOR A GENERAL SAG SETUP
Air Spring Setting guidelineS
Ride Wight Ai Pu
< 125 . < 57 g 45 psi 3,1
125 - 135 . 57 - 61 g 50 psi 3,4
135 - 145 . 61 - 66 g 55 psi 3,8
145 - 155 . 66 - 70 g 65 psi 4,5
155 - 170 . 70 - 77 g 75 psi 5,2
170 - 185 . 77 - 84 g 85 psi 5,9
185 - 200 . 84 - 91 g 95 psi 6,6
200 - 215 . 91 - 98 g 105 psi 7,2
215 - 230 . 98 - 104 g 115 psi 7,9
230 - 250 . 104 - 113 g 125 psi 8,7
Fox FloAt rlC - SAg Setup
Travel XC / Race Fm A-Mounin Ppush
140 m (5.5“) 21 m (7/8“) 35 m (1 3/8“)
Fox Float RLC
Fox Float RLC
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