ibis Ripley User manual

Instruction Manual
Notes on Tuning and Maintenance of Ibis Bicycles, Rev. C (Ripley Edition)
Reprin t ing Permi t t ed i f Source Quoted

2
Internal routing is provided for the
derailleur cable housing, and for a
mechanical dropper cable if you’re
not running a front derailleur
(otherwise the dropper cable is
external). The housing needs to be
fished through the frame before
you mount the fork. Use your derail-
leur housing as a pilot. The housing
provided in Ibis build kits is a little
longer than you need and works fine
as a pilot. With no fork installed,
insert the housing into the cable exit
hole that is under the upper shock
mount. When the cable gets to the
head tube, use your finger to guide
the cable through the front access
hole. We recommend that the rear
derailleur cable goes in the left
access holes. To keep the cable quiet
inside the frame, install three zip ties
on the housing about an inch apart,
so that they will be located in the
middle of the tube when the cable
is installed in the frame (to do this,
pull the housing out of the top tube
and through the top of the head tube
about 2 feet, then install the zip ties).
Ripley Routing
Bike Set-Up Tips and Tricks
Point the zip ties in different direc-
tions. Do not cut the tail off the zip
tie. When you insert the housing with
zip ties into the frame, the zip ties
will prevent the cable from rattling
inside the frame. Build the bike with
the cables dangling, and when you
are ready, feed the derailleur
cable through the housing.
A cable clip is provided to keep
the cable from getting unruly.
It should clip onto the two derailleur
cables just in front of the seat tube.
Once you’ve got your cables routed
through the upper shock mount area
(up to four cables), put a zip tie
around the cables right where they
exit that area. The front derailleur
cable should be routed on the inside
of the clevis. See illustration on the
following page.

3
Bike Set-Up Tips and Tricks
Ripley Routing

4
Ripley Routing
Cable Routing
Bike Set-Up Tips and Tricks

5
Chain Length
To get the correct chain length shift into
the large chainring and largest cog and
let all the air out of your shock. Thread
the chain through the gears and derail-
leurs, compress the suspension all the
way to bottom out, and cut the chain at
the minimum length needed with the rear
derailleur stretched out.
Tapered Head Tube
The Ripley features a tapered headtube
that works with new tapered steerer
forks. Known as mixed tapered,
or “ZS44/28.6 | EC49/40”
in the Standardized Headset Identifica-
tion System. This standard is compatible
with both the Chris King IS3 and certain
Cane Creek headsets
(see our webstore for the offerings.)
The Hakkalügi Disc features a tapered
steerer too, with the following S.H.I.S
identification: IS41/IS52. If you want
information about these standards visit
www.bicycleheadsets.com.
This standard is compatible with both the
Chris King Mixed Tapered and certain
Cane Creek headsets (see our webstore
for the offerings.)
If you’ve already got a perfectly usable
fork with a traditional 11/8” steerer tube
that you’d like to use, simply install an
adapter that will make your fork work
on the Ripley. Both Chris King and Cane
Creek make adapter style headsets that
will adapt our 1.5 cup to your 11/8” fork.
For those who like to experiment with
head angle and changing steering
geometry, Cane Creek now offers a
headset called the AngleSet, which is
compatible with the Ripley. The AngleSet
allows you to adjust the head tube angle
of the bike in 1/2” degree increments,
from +1.5˚ to –1.5˚.
Rear Dropouts and Disc Brake
Mounts
The rear axle is called a Maxle (it's
142x12), and is very similar to the new
through axle fork axles. The Ripley is
designed to bolt a post–mount stan-
dard caliper directly to the frame for a
160mm rotor or to a 180mm or 185mm
rotor with a post to post style adapter.
The derailleur hanger for the Ripley is
different than the one found on the Mojo
Carbon, Mojo SL, and Tranny. Replace-
ments are available via your Ibis retailer
or in the online Ibis store.
Bike Set-Up Tips and Tricks

140mm Fork 150mm Fork 160mm Fork 180mm Fork
n/a
Ripley
Low Speed, Tight And Twisty, Technical High Speed, Steeps, Jumps
69°
68.5°
68.5°
120mm Fork
70°
68.5°
68°
68°
67.5°
67°
67°
n/a
n/a
n/a
n/a
n/a
Mojo SL
Mojo HD140
Mojo HD 160 66°
n/an/a
68.5°
Bike Set-Up Tips and Tricks
Head Angle Chart
6
140mm Fork 150mm Fork 160mm Fork 180mm Fork
n/a
Ripley
Low Speed, Tight And Twisty, Technical High Speed, Steeps, Jumps
69°
68.5°
68.5°
120mm Fork
70°
68.5°
68°
68°
67.5°
67°
67°
n/a
n/a
n/a
n/a
n/a
Mojo SL
Mojo HD140
Mojo HD 160 66°
n/an/a
68.5°

7
Fork Setup Information
Read this first for a general under-
standing of fork set-up or skip straight
to the air pressure charts if you just
want to go ride.
Positive Pressure
This is the main air spring that sup-
ports your weight. Adjust the air
pressure so that you come close to
using all the travel on a typical ride.
Usually you can mimic your maximum
impacts by grabbing the front brake
and pushing down HARD on the bars.
If you are getting 80–90% of the
fork’s travel doing this, your positive
air spring is in the right range. Actual
riding will often push the fork a little
further than this test.
Low Speed Compression Damping
Low speed compression damping is
used to reduced unwanted movement
and over travel due to low speed
changes like out of the saddle pedal-
ing and subtle variations in the trail
that can cause wallowing etc. Adjust
to your preference.
Lockout
As the name implies this turns the fork
rigid (or close to it) for out of the sad-
dle efforts or riding on the road. Most
forks have a “blowoff” so that the fork
will move if a large enough impact is
felt. The threshold or “blowoff” when
the lockout lets the fork start to move
is often adjustable. It’s called Gate
in Rock Shox parlance and Blowoff
Threshold in Fox’s language. Usually
the goal is to have the lockout at the
minimum setting needed to stop the
fork movement while pedaling out of
the saddle, but allowing it to still move
fairly easily when an impact is felt.
High Speed Compression Damping
If your fork has a high speed com-
pression damping control, this would
usually be used to slow things down
during big hits to avoid bottoming.
It would usually be set at the lowest
level needed to avoid bottoming out.
Rebound
Adjust the rebound so that the front
end does not bounce off the ground
after a drop off or large bump.
If adjusted too slow, the fork may
“pack down” and feel sluggish.
In order to conserve momentum and
remain compliant the suspension
needs to recover fairly quickly and
push off the back side of bumps and
holes. If the rebound is adjusted too
slow, rolling energy is lost to damping
and vibration. If it is adjusted too fast
the bike will bounce after bumps and
drops. Adjust to your preference.
Fox Float CTD
For 2013 Fox added features to
their line of Float forks and shocks to
make it easier for the user to adjust to
changing trail conditions. It’s called
CTD (Climb Trail Descend) and is
changed by the lever at the top of the
right fork leg. As with prior Fox forks,
cranking the blue lever clockwise
increases the amount of force it takes
to make the fork move. Just think of
‘Righty Tighty, Lefty Loosie’ (same
goes for the shock).
Fork Setup

8
1. Add recommended air for rider weight
(see chart on facing page). With bike on level
ground, bounce up and down a bit to overcome
stock stiction. Settle into your riding position.
2. Slide o-ring until it rests on wiper,
then dismount without disturbing
o-ring's position.
3. Measure sag–the distance from o-ring to wiper.
Start with sag of 25% of travel and adjust to
your preference.
Fork Setup

9
Fork Setup
CTD
Climb enables a firm low-speed com-
pression setting. We’d use it for paved
or smooth fire road climbs.
Trail mode dials back the low-speed
compression damping from climb
mode. And once you set the lever to
Trail mode, changing between soft,
medium, and firm settings on the outer
dial enable you to further fine tune
the low-speed compression damping
(If on Trail mode, we usually prefer
the soft setting). Fox recommends the
Trail setting for an optimal blend of
pedaling efficiency and bike control
on variable terrain.
Descend mode changes the compres-
sion setting to full-open for maximum
control and plush performance on
steep, aggressive descents.

10
Ripley Sag
We recommend the following shock
pressures as starting points for the
Ripley:
< 170 lbs: riding weight less 10psi
> 170 lbs: riding weight plus 10psi
=170 start with riding weight
Shoot for 11mm (.45") sag.
Less pressure gives a slacker seat
angle and overall smoother ride.
More pressure gives a firmer suspen-
sion feel and steeper seat angle and
more over the pedals riding position.
Trail Adjust
The new RP23 CTD (Climb, Trail,
Descend) is set-up much like the Float
CTD fork:
Climb mode enables a firm low-speed
compression setting. We’d use it for
paved or smooth fire road climbs.
Trail mode dials back the low-speed
compression damping from climb mode.
And once you set the lever to Trail
mode, changing between soft, medium,
and firm settings on the dark outer dial
enable you to further fine tune the low-
speed compression damping.
Descend mode changes the compres-
sion setting to full-open for maximum
control and plush performance on
steep, aggressive descents.
The pedaling efficiency of the dw-
link suspension renders many of the
features of the RP23 CTD superfluous.
For all but smooth pavement or fire
road climbing, we recommend run-
ning the RP23 in the Descend setting.
The increased low speed compression
damping that Trail and Climb settings
provide cut out much of the small
bump sensitivity that our bikes are so
well known for.
Adjusting Rebound
The RP23 has adjustable rebound
damping. It’s adjusted by turning the
red dial on the inside of the CTD lever
(or ProPedal adjust lever on older
RP23s). Generally you want it as
fast as you can set it without getting
bounced off the saddle after a bump
or drop (like riding off a curb in the
saddle.) If the rebound setting is too
slow the shock will be partially com-
pressed when you hit the next bump
resulting in “packing down”. Too fast
Rear Shock Setup

11
and the bike will bounce you up in the
air after bumps and drops. Adjust to
your preference.
ProPedal
This is a damping system used by Fox to
minimize unwanted suspension bob. The
dw–link suspension is good at minimiz-
ing suspension bob but there are situa-
tions where you might want to use some
ProPedal. It is turned on or off with the
simple movement of the easily accessible
blue lever at the top of the shock. You
can run the shock open or engage the
ProPedal settings on any of the shocks.
On the Fly RP23 ProPedal controls
Position 1: blue lever towards the
drive side=shock open,
no ProPedal.
Position 2: blue lever toward the
non–drive side=ProPedal level
based on dial setting 1–3.
Kashima RP23
The 2012 Kashima shocks have
Adaptive Logic, and work differently
than the prior RP23's. Set the lever
Rear Shock Setup
to the left, and you have the firmest
ProPedal setting. To the right is 0
(open) or ProPedal 1 or 2. The other
settings are the same as prior RP23s.

12
Maintenance

13
Maintenance
Working on your Ripley
Should you find it necessary to
replace any of the bearings on the Ri-
pley eccentric linkages, you will need
to remove the swingarm. For that,
you will need the following tools:
• 12mm open end wrench
• 15mm socket wrench
• 2 x 6mm Allen wrench
• 1 x 5mm Allen wrench
• 2 x 4mm Allen wrenches
Bearing Replacement:
Please refer to the section on Ripley
Swingarm Removal on pages 44–45.
Ibis will be offering a bearing remov-
al tool in addition to a bearing press
in mid 2013. Complete instructions
will be included in the next version of
this guide.
Ripley Bearing Specs:
Eccentric Core Inner Bearings:
• 6806-2RS (30 x 42 x 7)
These are the same size as BB30
bearings.
Lower outer bearings
• 608-RS 8x22x7
These mount in the swingarm and
can be found in skate shops.
Upper outerbearing
• 698-RS 8x19x6
These mount in the swingarm and
can be found in skate shops.
The Ripley uses the following shock and
shock hardware:
Upper Hardware:
• 21.8mm wide with an 8mm bore
Lower Hardware:
• Bushing removed, use provided clevis
bolt
Ripley Shock:
7.25” (184mm) eye to eye
1.75” (44mm) shaft travel
All Mojos use the same shock
mounting hardware.
Upper Hardware:
• 21.8mm wide with an 8mm bore
Lower Hardware:
• 40mm wide with an 8mm bore

14
Frame Hardware
Torque Specs
17 N·m 18 N·m 19 N·m 20 N·m
Mojo, Mojo SL:
Front Derailleur Bolt (Clamp Style)
Forward Shock Mount Bolts
Rear Shock Bolt
Upper Link Bolts
Both Lower Link Bolts
Mojo HD and SL-R:
Front Derailleur Bolt (Direct Mount)
Rear Brake Caliper Bolts
Both Lower Link Bolts
Forward Shock Mount Bolts
Non QR Seat Binder Bolts
Tranny:
Seat Stay Bolts
Slot Machine Bolt (See p. 37)
4 N·m
(3 ft·lbs)
5 N·m
(3.68 ft·lbs)
10 N·m
(7 ft·lbs)
16 N·m
(11.8 ft·lbs)
Frame Hardware Torque Specs, by Model
6 N·m
(4.5 ft·lbs) (4.5 ft·lbs)
7 N·m 8 N·m
(TK ft·lbs)
9 N·m
(TK ft·lbs)
16 N·m (12 ft·lbs) for Geared Riding 20 N·m 15 ft·lbs for Single Speed Riding
3-4 N·m
Ripley
Upper And Lower Eccentric Core Bolts M8 w/5mm Hex
8 N·m
5 N·m
5 N·m
6 N·m
Use with Loctite 242
Use with Loctite 242
Use with Loctite 242
Use with grease for a ss bolt and anti-seize for a titanium bolt.
Use with Loctite 242 for a steel pin and anti-seize for a titanium bolt.
Use with Loctite 242
5-7N·m with a dab of grease
Use with Loctite 242 for a steel pin and anti-seize for a titanium pin.
Upper Link Bolts
Rear Shock Bolt Use with grease for a ss bolt and anti-seize for a titanium bolt.
Use with Loctite 242 for a steel pin and anti-seize for a titanium bolt.
Eccentric Shaft Bolts
Lower Shock to Clevis Bolts
Clevis To Swingarm Bolts
4 N·m
Upper Shock Mount Bolts
6mm Hex

15
washer-10x5
m5x8 bhcs
42x30x7 bearing
lower left ecc core e
m8x8 fhcs
698 bearing
upper ecc nut a
m8x8 fhcs
lower ecc shaft f
608 bearing
rear shock bolt
du bushing clevis
clevis reducer
o ring
m6x18 fhcs
derailleur hanger chainsuck plate
lower left ecc core
42x30x7 bearing
rear shock nut
bearing spacer
42x30x7 bearing
lower right ecc core e
608 bearing asym
lower ecc nut a
698 bearing
upper ec inner axle d
upper right ecc core e
42x30x7 bearing
bearing spacer
pin upper shockeye
washer 10x5 5x1
m5x8 bhcs
Frame Hardware
Ripley

16
Ripley Swingarm Removal
Step 1
Put your Ripley in a work stand.
Remove the front derailleur,
cranks, brakes and the rear wheel.
Remove the upper shock bolts (4mm
Allen) and lower clevis bolts (5mm).
Gently remove the clevis from the
swingarm, leaving the shock attached.
Step 2
Remove both of the eccentric core
bolts using 6mm allen wrenches.

17
Ripley Swingarm Removal
Step 3
Remove the countersunk bolt from
each eccentric core cap. You might
need to use a 12mm open end
wrench to prevent the eccentric
from rotating. Do not use a crescent
wrench, cave man!
Step 4
Gently remove the cap, and then you
will be able to push the eccentric core
out of the frame.

1818
Ripley Swingarm Removal
Note:
Special tools are needed to remove
and replace the Ripley bearings in
the seat tube and in the swingarm.
Please do not attempt to remove
and replace these bearings.
Instructions on removal and rein-
stallation of the bearings using a
special Ibis manufactured tool will
be added to this instruction book at
a later date.
To reinstall the swingarm, work in the
reverse order.
Add grease to the core when reinstalling,
and a lightly grease the inner lip of the
eccentric cap.
Don't forget the two spacers that go
between the BB30 bearings in the
seat tube.
The chamfered hole on the cap aligns
with the threaded hole on the eccentric
core. Use blue loctite on the bolt.

1919
Ripley Swingarm Removal
Use a 12 mm open end wrench to align
the eccentrics so that the flats are hori-
zontal and at the 9 o'clock position when
the frame is parallel with the ground.
Gently slide the swingarm onto the ec-
centrics. Insert the swingarm bolts, lower
bolt from the non drive side, upper from
the drive side.
The conehead bolt goes on the lower
bolt, on the drive side. Ride it and weep
(with joy).