Krick 20310 User manual

Page 1 © Klaus Krick Modelltechnik Knittlingen August 2002
SUBMARINE Type VII b
Technical data of the original of the model:
Scale 1:1 1:60
Length 66.5 m 1120 mm
Width 6.2 m 125 mm
Height (keel to top edge of tower) 9.5 m 170 mm
Building Instructions
Congratulations on your purchase of this construction set. The submarine type VII was probably one of
the most built submarines in the world. In its time it set the standard and became very successful. We
hope that you will have a lot of fun building this model - either as a display version or a fully functional
diving model.
With this construction set you can either build a pure display model without any additional kit or a fully
functional diving model using the dive and drive set (Order no. 10311) which includes a flood tank and
pump. The diving rudders fore and aft were enlarged somewhat for the functional version in
comparison with the scale. Also, some covers on the hull of the diving model were designed to be
removable, which, on the standard version, do not, of course, have to be cut open. These instructions
apply to both models - any differences are clearly described.
You also need the following material to build the standard model:
- ABS special adhesive, order no. 80478
- Fast adhesive “Ruck-Zuck”, order no. 80492
- UHU “plus endfest” 300 adhesive, order no. 45640
- UHU “plus Acrylit”, order no. 48315
- UHU “allplast”, order no. 48410
- Spray lacquer, colours light grey and dark grey
- Small pots of paint (Humbrol or similar), black
- Lead ballast strips, 60 g, order no. 60107 (2 off)
We recommend the following tools for the construction:
- Sharp and strong model building knife, order no. 416002
- Replacement blades for the knife, order no. 420019
- Drill bits, sizes 1 mm, 1.5 mm, 2 mm, 3 mm, 4 mm, 5 mm and possibly 7 mm
- Metal ruler
- Sanding block and sanding paper, various grades
- Round and flat files

Page 2 © Klaus Krick Modelltechnik Knittlingen August 2002
The Material:
The plastic used in this model set is 95% pure, impact-resistant ABS plastic. This material has a very
long life and will not become porous quickly like some other plastics. We have been using this material
for over 20 years in our production and, with the outside of the model lacquered, had the best results
with it. The best adhesive for this material is the Krick ABS special adhesive (order no. 80478). This
adhesive dissolves the ABS very slightly and virtually welds the components together.
However, due to its many small details, the deck could not be manufactured from ABS. We have used
polystyrene plastics instead.
Important: When gluing, please note that polystyrene (i.e. the deck) cannot be glued using the
ABS adhesive. The adhesive will not solve this material. In order to connect ABS with polystyrene,
“UHU allplast” or an epoxy adhesive should be used. Please make absolutely sure that you use this.
Cutting out the ABS Components:
In order to find the correct cutting edge, please look very closely at the drawings in these instructions.
Black-and-white triangular arrows show exactly from which side any edge should be cut with the knife.
The remainder is always shown as hatched on the drawing. Carefully score the edge several times,
then carefully break off the components. If large residues remain around the component, first cut off
the steep walls of the residues before getting to the actual component. Take particular care on
corners. It is better to score several times until the material is almost cut through otherwise cracks
could develop into the components which are uncontrollable because plastic does not have a structure
or directional fibres. Keep the remaining scrap bits, in particular the long straight strips of the hull
components. This is not waste material, some components are actually made from the strips of this
residue.
The Dive and Drive Kit (Order no. 20311):
This kit contains all the parts you need to build a functional diving model, except the radio remote
control, drive control and batteries. Some parts are also found in the basic kit which are put there
simply because it is easier to pack them there. You can quite easily tell which parts are in which kit by
the markings in the item list at the end of these instructions.
Besides the drive and dive kit, you also need the following items for the operation with remote control:
- Remote radio control, minimum 4 channels
- Drive control 12 V, 30 Amp, forward-reverse
- Drive control or forward-reverse switch to operate the pump
- Battery pack of 10 NiCd cells (recommended: min. 1300 mAh). Two battery packs of 2 times 5 cells,
or 4 and 6 cells have proven to be better for easier installation and removal.
Step 1
Cut out the hull halves (1 & 2) from the outside, as shown. First you cut off the large side walls of the
remaining material in order to obtain pieces that are easier to handle. Then score from the outside of
the hull in the edge of the hull component as per the drawing and carefully bend off the remaining
material.

Page 3 © Klaus Krick Modelltechnik Knittlingen August 2002
Using first fine and then coarse sanding paper, sand the flood apertures that are raised from the inside
and the details. Sand down to the wall. When building the display models, we also recommend
sanding the apertures, but unlike in the powered model where they are to remain open, they are then
closed again from the rear using a black lacquered component. This, in our view, makes the apertures
look tidier rather than just leaving them closed and only painting them over.
Using fine sandpaper that is glued to a larger level plate, sand the edges absolutely level so that the
two hull halves fit precisely when glued together. Use this technique on all cut-out components.
Bend some strips of 12 x 1.5 mm ABS so as to follow the contours of the hull radius. Cut these into 40
pieces of 25 mm length each (3). They will be glued to the interior of the lower hull half.
Tip! To bend the plastic strips, pull them over the edge of the table of your workbench until they roll
up. Repeat this until the correct radius is achieved.
Cut 9 strips of 50 x 10 mm (4). They are used to connect the upper side of the hull - 2 pieces in the
area of the bow before the removable section, 5 in the central removable part. Leave a gap of at least
37 mm in the area of the cut of the removable part (see drawing).

Page 4 © Klaus Krick Modelltechnik Knittlingen August 2002
Start by gluing 20 bent strips (3) in the area of the floor onto each hull half at a distance of ca. 35 mm
between each component, so that they interlock with each other.
Glue two strips of 10 mm (4) into the area of the bow and then a further 5 in the central area as shown.
Make sure that there remains a gap of 37 mm on the cut line for the form pieces (7).
Put together the hull halves without glue to check that the connecting strips do not interfere with each
other. Once they fit well, put some ABS adhesive on all the connections and also along the hull edges
except for the central piece. Hold these pieces together with adhesive tape and let the adhesive dry
overnight.
Once dry, sand down the overlapping glue with wet sanding paper until the connecting edge is
smooth. Any gaps can now be filled with plastic putty. You can also make your own putty in a small
jam jar with ABS adhesive and ABS chippings. However, it will take some time until the plastic has
dissolved in the glue enough so that it can be used.
Draw the cutting line for the removable central part with a pencil following the drawing. Four flood
apertures at the bow and 6 apertures at the stern remain in the central part. Score and then cut out
only the left (backboard) side.
Cut out the internal filler pieces for the bow (5) and the stern (6) as shown. Using a suitable rod that is
fitted with some double-sided adhesive tape, the filler pieces, already glued, can then be inserted and
pressed in as per the drawing.

Page 5 © Klaus Krick Modelltechnik Knittlingen August 2002
Now put some ABS glue on the 5 linking pieces of the central part and re-insert the backboard central
part. Let the adhesive dry.
Once dry, score and cut the right (starboard) central part so that the whole section can be removed.
Fasten 4 small link pieces (small plates) made from scrap material, as per the drawing, to the central
part so that it sits flush and hooks up in the hull when closing the cover.
Now apply a bead of glue to all joints from the inside in order to stabilise the hull and central part.
Cut From
Inside
Cut From
Outside
Now cut out the 4 cover fastening braces. For this, first cut along the wavy lines from the inside and
then the cross lines from the outside. The parts are marked with dots from 1 to 4.
First fit the braces without glue into the hull. The part with one dot is aft backboard, with 2 dots is fore
backboard, 3 dots is aft starboard and 4 dots is fore starboard. Once the parts cleanly fit together, glue
them in ensuring that the glue does not touch the central part.

Page 6 © Klaus Krick Modelltechnik Knittlingen August 2002
Fixing with nuts and bolts: Set the central part back on the hull and hold it with adhesive tape. Drill 4
holes of 3 mm diameter through the central part into the braces. Remove the central part again.
Push screw (104) through the hole in the hull and tighten the cover-fastening nut (8) on the inside and
check that the face of the nut is touching the braces well. Then seal the nut using “UHU plus” without
getting any adhesive onto the thread. Whilst doing this, firmly hold the nut with the screw until the glue
has set. Let everything dry before removing the screw again.
Cut the keel out of the deep draw component from the inside. Make sure it fits well to the underside of
the hull. The pointed end is facing the bow. Do not glue the keel to the hull yet. Fill the keel with rolled
lead or lead balls (our order no. 60108) until it has a weight of 350 to 400 gramms. Rolled lead can be
glued in with some epoxy adhesive. Lead balls can be mixed with some epoxy adhesive and then
filled into the keel. Please note that epoxy adhesive becomes warm. Heat develops particularly when
the adhesive layer is too thick which could deform and destroy your keel. Be careful not to let any lead
be proud of the edge so that the keel can later be attached under the hull without problems. Finally,
there should be no air left in the keel as it could cause uplift.
Re-fasten the central part to the hull and place it upside down. Draw the dimensions shown on the hull
and glue the keel along the centre line to the hull. Let everything dry well. The edge of the facing area

Page 7 © Klaus Krick Modelltechnik Knittlingen August 2002
of the keel on the hull can then be sanded and filled to a chamfer.
.
Now measure and mark all other parts cut out from the build plan and the following drawings and mark
these dimensions on the hull.
Use a straight edge for attachment and place it vertically at the stern. For drilling the two holes for the
rudder tubes first use a 2mm drill bit, then open it up to 4mm. For the space for the stern tubes, we
also recommend starting off drilling the end point with a small drill bit and gradually opening it up to
7mm and filing it.
Now draw the lateral hatch for the rudder unit on the hull’s starboard side, as per the build plan. If you
are left-handed, it would be sensible to attach this hatch on the backboard side. Drill into the corners of
the hatch with a 1.5mm drill, link the bore holes with a ruler and score several times with a knife along
this line until the plastic is cut through. File the cut edges smooth and, using the scrap material, attach
6 small pieces around the edge on the inside of the hull so that the hatch cannot fall in.
Cut out 3 strips for the cover which you then glue vertically to the inside of the cover. The cover should
then be hooked in with its upper edge into the hull and slot into the lower edge by lifting it up and over.

Page 8 © Klaus Krick Modelltechnik Knittlingen August 2002
Now you can cut out the hatch for the front fins in the floor of the hull. The measurements for this
please take out of the building plan or make the size yourself that you can fit your hand in to make
adjustments. Cut it out along the fat line and lay it over the hull floor so that the two fat black dots lie
exactly on the large markings for the fin shaft. Then clearly mark with a drill the corner points of the
hatch and drill these through with a 1.5mm bit. Then link these corner holes, as with the stern hatch,
and cut them out the same way. As with the stern hatch, apply scrap pieces on the inside of the hull to
the edge of the hatch so that the hatch lid cannot fall in.
Then you apply scrap pieces to the lid, as per the drawings below, so that it can be hooked up and
clamped in like the stern hatch.
The fins and connections will be fitted later.
Assembly of Pressure Tank
Before the two half shells of the pressure tank are glued together, they need some preparatory work
which is a lot easier when done beforehand.
Preparation of Lower Shell (11)
First cut off the rough edge of the lower shell. Make sure you know which are the front and the rear of
this part. The end with the slightly rounded floor is the rear, the end with the wedge-shaped bulge is
the front. Now the holes for both stern tubes are marked and drilled out to 7mm diameter. For this, first
of all mark a vertical centre line on the outside of the rear wall. Then draw a line parallel to and 5 mm
from the upper adhesive edge and mark the centre points of your holes on this parallel line at a
distance of 18mm from the central vertical line. Start drilling with a 2mm bit and increase the hole
gradually whilst ensuring that the central point of the hole is maintained. [“Unterschale” =lower shell]

Page 9 © Klaus Krick Modelltechnik Knittlingen August 2002
18
18
5
7
Lower Shell (11)
Now place the lower shell into the hull as per the plan without gluing it into place. Glue together the
motor carrier (27), which is made up of its two plates, and fit it into the lower shell. Fit the two electric
motors to the carrier and both universal joints to the motors. Push the stern tubes and shafts with
screws through the hull and apertures of the lower shell and adjust everything carefully. Once
everything is positioned straight and without tension, fasten the motor frame with fast acting glue and
then carefully glue it with ABS adhesive. Then you can remove the lower shell from the hull. At this
point, it is recommended to equip the motors with interference suppressors and connecting cables.
Once the upper shell is fitted, this job would be much more difficult.
Preparation of Upper Shell:
Cut out the cover areas for the pressure tank upper shell (12) from the outside at the innermost edge
so that the resulting 10mm edge remains as a sealing area. Also cut off the rough edges.
Turn the upper shell over and fit precise pieces of the pine batten (20) into the apertures provided
along the sealing edge. Using the pre-drilled cover, ensure that the joints of the battens do not sit
where the drill holes will be later. Apply the ABS adhesive over the whole of the battens, glue them
into place and press them down with weights until the adhesive is well cured. Thereafter, apply clear
lacquer to the wood.
The pre-drilled covers from the dive set are now used as a template for the holes for the screws in the
upper shell. Attach the covers with adhesive tape to the upper shell so that they cannot shift but leave
all holes free. Now drill the first hole into one corner of the cover and through the upper shell and
carefully through the wood. The best way is to start at a corner, insert a screw to prevent the cover
from shifting, then drill a hole in the diagonally opposite corner and also insert a screw. Drill all
remaining holes in this fashion.
Turn the upper shell over again and countersink all holes from below using an 8mm bit so that the
screw heads are flush. Using epoxy adhesive, glue in the countersunk screws (21) from below. For
this purpose, apply some epoxy adhesive to the underside of the screw head and to the upper 6mm of
the thread, stick the screw into the wooden batten from below and tighten the screw from above using
an M3 nut. Take care that the aperture is well sealed with adhesive. However, no adhesive should
emerge from the top as it could inadvertently glue the nut fast, too.

Page 10 © Klaus Krick Modelltechnik Knittlingen August 2002
Next, the pressure tank is assembled using the lower shell (11) and the upper shell (12). First of all,
there are two points to be considered: the pressure tank should not be too high, otherwise the water
tank will not fit on top later on. Before finally gluing the shells together, place the assembled shells into
the hull and measure from the upper edge of the upper shell (12) to the upper edge of the brace (8).
This dimension must not be smaller than 27mm, neither fore nor aft.
When assembling, please note which way round the upper shell is placed on the lower shell. The
upper shell has three cover areas. The smallest of these is at the front. You can see it in the drawing
on the lower side view.
Now apply a thin bead of ABS adhesive to the outside of the cutting edge of the upper shell. It should
be continuous. Put the shells together and hold them together with adhesive tape. Once the adhesive
has cured, you can put some more adhesive into the gap between upper and lower shells, in order to
seal it properly.
Leakage test:
Now you can carry out a leakage test: Put the foam rubber gaskets (16) in place and screw the covers
on. Carefully and evenly tighten the nuts with an Allen key (but not too tight) so that the gasket is
slightly squeezed and touching everywhere. Seal the two holes of the stern tubes with insulating tape
and immerse the tank in water. Test the gaskets carefully and repair any leaks before commencing
with the task.
Installation of Bowden Cables and Tube Pieces
To control the aft side rudders and the fore fins, two Bowden cables consisting of an outer and an
inner tube are used. The outer tube must now be installed into the pressure tank and sealed with an
epoxy adhesive. To achieve a good seal between outer and inner tube, the Bowden cables were
deliberately left as long as possible. That is why the Servo for the aft side rudder is right at the front
and the servo for the fore fin is right at the back. Cut the external tube to length according to the build
plan. To strengthen the dive tank, it is double-skinned with scrap pieces (15) and ABS adhesive at the
places where the Bowden cables (14) and the pieces of tube (13) for the pump hoses are fed through.
Now you drill a 3mm hole through the tank for each of the Bowden cables and a 5mm hole for each of
the two pieces of tube. This is easily done with a hand chuck. Mark the place on the Bowden cable
that is to be at the exit place as per the build plan and roughen this area a little with sandpaper. Then
glue the Bowden cables (14) and the pieces of tube that have also been roughened (15) into the
pressure tank and take care that the adhesive is flowing completely around the tube both on the
outside and the inside of the tank and fuses with the plastic.
Installing the Pressure Tank in the Hull
As a next step, you can place the prepared pressure tank into the hull. Take particular care of the
height dimension of 27mm as per the build plan. Re-insert the stern tubes into the hull and pressure
tank and check that the dimension from the end of the stern tube to the stern of the hull is as per the
plan. The pressure tank is seated correctly if 3 to 4mm of the stern tubes in the pressure tank are still
visible so that they can be cleanly glued into place. Attach the shafts and coupling to the motors and
correct any cut-outs if the course is not quite correct so that everything can run freely. Mark the
position of the pressure tank in the hull. Now remove the pressure tank from the hull, apply ABS
adhesive to the contact areas on the floor and replace it precisely in the same marked position. Re-

Page 11 © Klaus Krick Modelltechnik Knittlingen August 2002
insert the stern tubes and glue them into place carefully with “UHU acrylit” both from the outside and
inside at the pressure tank and also on the hull with the small wedges made from scrap material.
Keel, Aft Diving Stabiliser
Glue the halves of the keel triangle (10) and of the diving stabilisers (43a, or 32 for the display model)
together. Sand the stabilisers to a point towards the rear and round off the front edge so that the
profile will look like that of the plan. Now glue the keel triangle with ABS adhesive to the link line of the
hull and ensure that the distance to each ship’s screw is the same and that the triangle is vertical.
Attach it to the hull with adhesive tape until the adhesive has dried. When gluing the diving stabilisers,
make sure they are adjusted well. For this purpose, look at the hull from the rear and check that the
stabilisers are not only vertical to the keel triangle but also to the line of the whole ship otherwise your
submarine will not dive or go straight on. The stabilisers are glued to the keel triangle with ABS
adhesive. Finally, the braces (25) and depth rudder fins (43, or 31 on the display model) can be glued
to the stern tubes with epoxy adhesive.
Assembly of the Flood Tank
The flood tank is assembled from the floor (53) and upper part (52). Cut out the floor from the
underside. Cut out the support (55) for the ventilation pipe, drill a 5mm hole in it and glue it centrally to
the floor 100mm behind the front recess.
At the same place in the upper part, drill a 5mm hole for the ventilation pipe. Glue the pipe into the
upper shell and holder using epoxy adhesive and simultaneously glue the floor with ABS adhesive into
the upper part. Cut off the edge of the upper part and sand it level with the floor. Drill a 5mm hole each
fore and aft into the front very close to the floor for the connection pipes (56) and glue these into place.

Page 12 © Klaus Krick Modelltechnik Knittlingen August 2002
Now drill 8 small holes of 2mm diameter around the ventilation pipe and one each fore and aft into the
tower roof of the flood tank.
Installation of the Trunk Tubes
Drill the position for the fore fins in the hull out to 4mm and glue both trunk tubes (47) from the inside
with epoxy adhesive leaving approximately 3 to 4mm reaching out. Push the diving rudder shaft (48)
through the trunk for adjustment until the glue has set.
Then you glue the aft side rudder trunks into the hull. It is recommended to place the hull precisely on
its side into matching cushions, to push the two side rudders 34 through the trunks and then to support
these precisely with timbers from the floor to the lower rudder and between the lower and upper rudder
so that the trunks can be glued into place precisely and horizontally. A fast setting epoxy adhesive is
recommended for this, for example “UHU plus sofortfest”.
Assembly of the Fore Diving Rudder (Fin)
The fins drawn from the half shells are provided for the mobile model. Cut these out from the inside
and sand them flat. Open the half-round apertures for the rudder shaft.
Open Half Round
The rudder shaft (48) is flattened at both ends 10mm from the end with a file to ease drilling. Now drill
1.5mm holes at the same angle at both ends. If these holes are not drilled at the same angle, the
rudders will not be the same either.

Page 13 © Klaus Krick Modelltechnik Knittlingen August 2002
File flat for easier drilling.
Drill through the half fins with the ends of the shaft positioned right on the outside.
Glue the half rudders together and let them dry. Check the alignment of the fins by placing them on a
level surface. Carefully sand the glued edges.
The small fins for the display model (44) are glued together from the pre-cut parts. A 3mm hole is
drilled from the side and glued to the rudder shaft (46). First sand the profile form carefully to shape.
The second fin may only be glued after assembly.
Inserting the Rudders
The fore fin of the mobile model is assembled in the following order. Ready assemble one fin, then
stick through one side of the vessel, push on the fin lever (51) with the already hooked-up wire (37),
then stick the shaft through the second side of the vessel and mount the second fin there.

Page 14 © Klaus Krick Modelltechnik Knittlingen August 2002
After a piece of tubing (39) and a set collar (38) have been pushed on, the wire (37) can be pushed
into the inner tube of the Bowden cable. Please consult the build plan for this step. The adjustment is
carried out later.
To fasten both the side rudders (34), the three rudder levers (35) have to be shortened according to
the plan and be drilled with a 1mm hole. Both the rudder levers pointing aft should be chamfered on
their outside so that the rudder throw is not too restricted by the outer side. Now suspend the link 36 in
both rudder levers and mount these in the hull on the rudder shafts. Only then should you suspend the
wire (37) in the third rudder lever and mount this on a rudder shaft. As with the fore fin, connect the
wire with the inner Bowden cable tube with a piece of tubing (39) and set collar (38).
Inserting Servos
The positions of the servos are marked exactly in the build plan. The front servo for the side rudder is
held in place with two battens (20). First fit the battens into the pressure tank. Prepare the two hoses
from the connecting pieces (13) to the pump (P) and find the best position for the servo so that the
hoses do not kink. Screw the battens together with the servo and then set the whole unit into place
and glue the sides with ABS adhesive.
The aft servo for the fore fins is fixed with the double strength braces (42). Fit and glue these initially
within the pressure tank and then fasten the servo with double sided adhesive tape to the floor and to
the brace.
Control of the Rudders
Set both servos to the middle position using the remote control and then attach the rudder levers
vertically to the Bowden cable as shown on the plan. Then set the rudders to the central position and
cut the Bowden cables to length so that the correct length is achieved with the aid of the yoke (40) and
solder connector (41). Then glue the inner cable of the Bowden cable with a little epoxy adhesive into
the solder connector. Now you can carry out the first rudder tests by connecting your remote control.
You can carry out the fine adjustment on the screwed-on clevises. If the rudders prove to be too
sluggish due to the silicone hose (39), grease the Bowden cables a little. The external Bowden cable
tubes have to be connected to the wall of the pressure tank or the hull at several places in order to
avoid excessive lateral movement. Do this at the end when you are sure about how the battery,
receiver and controller are to be positioned, installed and removed so that you do not obstruct any
access points.
Connecting the Motors
As the ship’s screws counter-rotate to each other, the motors also have to be connected to counter-
rotate. The positive connection of the motors has a red dot. Therefore, solder a length of cable to each
connection on the motors that is long enough to reach to your desired position of the drive controller.
Now solder together each positive pole and each negative pole of the motors and solder this
connection to the plug to your drive controller. Now you can carry out the first motor tests after the
remote control and batteries have been connected.
Connecting the Pump and Hoses
The pump hoses are now connected to the connector pieces (13). A connector piece is fitted with a
hose of approx. 10cm length which has a surplus piece of brass tube fitted at its other end so that it
always hangs down in the forward hull area and thus can always suck up water.
The second connector piece is connected with a long piece of hose to the rear connector of the flood
tank. The front connection of the flood tank is really not required. As many model builders like to
conduct their own tests and would like to make their boats dive even more effectivly and faster, we
have incorporated the idea of another model builder here. However, we recommend for the first tests
fitting a piece of hose to this connection and screwing a 5mm screw or a stopper into the other end of
the hose. This concludes the technical installation. The batteries really should be fixed to the floor with
pieces of batten or velcro straps to prevent them moving about. Do this before your final trimming of
the boat in your bath.

Page 15 © Klaus Krick Modelltechnik Knittlingen August 2002
Attaching the Ornamental Deck
The ornamental deck is assembled from the 4 deep-drawn thin polystyrene parts. Carefully cut these
out with a pair of scissors and fit the transfer passages carefully to the cutting areas of the cover and
the hull. Carefully cut out the section for the tower (64) so that this tower part fits precisely into the cut-
out of the deck. Then glue together the decks with the hull using “UHU allplast” (IMPORTANT! Do not
use ABS adhesive, as it does not bond the polystyrene.) The laterally visible slots between hull and
decks can be filled with putty or “UHU allplast”. When the glue is dry carefully make the cutout in the
lower deck for the flood tank, but this should be little smaller that the tower can sit upon this deck.
Assembly of the Tower
First cut out the upper deflection edge (66) inside from the inner side of the form part. Then cut it from
the outside, as shown.
The upper side panel (65) is cut out from the inside.
Cut out the lower tower part - below from the inside and above from the outside. The illustration shows
it upside down.
In the tower deck (67), first of all file the 8 raised strips flush with the deck. Then cut out the inner
frame (69) from outside starting from the outer side. Drill the compass (68) initially with 3mm, then cut
it out from the outside. The rear of the compass is then cut out from the inside.

Page 16 © Klaus Krick Modelltechnik Knittlingen August 2002
Then turn the form part around and cut out the tower deck from the inside. Repeat this with the inner
frame (69) and use a small round file to work out the semi circular apertures. Drill 4 x 3mm holes in the
raise for the periscope in the middle of the deck.
Sand the edges until the deck fits cleanly into the lower tower part. Now glue it into the tower and let it
dry. File the edge down to deck level but be careful that you do not file any detail. Cut apertures into
the floor of the lower tower part 4 as shown.
Glue the upper part (65) to the lower part (64) with the deck (67). Then glue in the inner step (69).

Page 17 © Klaus Krick Modelltechnik Knittlingen August 2002
Drill 6 x 3mm holes from below into the deck (but not into the inner step) so that they are not visible
from the outside. Glue the compass part (68) into place.
Shown here is the whole assembly. Glue the top edge (66) flush with the upper edge.
Now pre-bend the steps (83) from brass wire according to the plan and drill the holes for them into the
tower. Before gluing them into place, make a strip from 2mm ABS that you can push as a distance
piece between the steps and the tower wall. Do the same for the handrail supports (79) and the
handrails (78). Bend the balcony railing of the tower carefully around a round object of a suitable
diameter and solder it to the supports. Now drill the 1mm holes for the supports into the floor of the

Page 18 © Klaus Krick Modelltechnik Knittlingen August 2002
tower and glue them into place with epoxy adhesive. Finally, glue the tower well and fast into place on
deck.
Assembly of the Weapons
Now assemble both guns as per the following drawings. The most suitable adhesive for the white
metal components is an epoxy adhesive. A fast-acting glue could dissolve again if in contact with
water over a longer time.
Fasten the two guns safely with epoxy adhesive on the decks so that you do not lose them when
diving.
Attaching the Remaining Fittings
Finally, manufacture the remaining deck fittings and attach them to the deck according to the build
plan. You can achieve a good visual effect when you lacquer the fittings with a slightly darker grey like
the deck.
Water Line and Trimming the Model
Mark the fore water line of the model 30mm below the bow and aft 7mm below deck level. This line
can be the border for a darker paint scheme of the lower hull below the water line as shown on the
illustration on the box. This line is also approximately our waterline when we trim the boat in the bath.
The self-adhesive lead ballast strips (order no. 60110) have proven to be the ideal ballast for precise
trimming. You insert these in the bow or stern area through the hatches and you can glue them
laterally left and right for vertical trimming. Remember that all remote control and battery items should
be in place when trimming. The flood tank should also be empty when trimming. If your boat is lying
along this water line and if its lateral trim is also correct, there should be nothing to stop you running
your first tests. Press the model under water and move it to and fro so that all air can escape. Even
now, the boat should be lying along its water line.
First Tests
First, check in the bath whether all remote control functions operate properly in the bath, whether the
motors and pumps are rotating in the right direction and that the rudders are moving in the appropriate
directions. You can also carry out a careful power test of the batteries and motors. When the flood
tank is filled, the model’s stern should already be below water and the bow area should be
approximately 1cm above the water. It is important, however, that the boat does not tilt sideways
otherwise it means that your tank is not placed centrally. The tank can be jammed between the cover
fastening nuts using wedges and once you are sure about the final position in the deck, you can glue it
into place there using double-sided adhesive tape.

Page 19 © Klaus Krick Modelltechnik Knittlingen August 2002
During your first test run on a lake, or even better a large swimming pool, we recommend during diving
tests, to test the flooding of the tank and then to dive using the dive rudders separately. You will
develop a certain feeling to find out when you have to counter-steer using the dive rudders in order to
maintain a steady depth. Only after you have fully familiarised yourself with the controls of the dive
rudders can you combine flooding and dive rudders to simulate an original, faithful diving manoeuvre.
All these trials make submarine diving so enjoyable. We wish you a lot of fun with these tests and
plenty of success.
Krick Modelltechnik, P. O. Box 1138, D-75438 Knittlingen, Germany
Web: www.krick-modell.de, E-Mail: [email protected]
Distributed within the U.K. by:
JoTiKa Ltd., Model Marine Warehouse, Hadzor, Droitwich, Worcestershire, WR9 7DS, UK.
Web: www.jotika-ltd.com, E-Mail: [e-mail]

Page 20 © Klaus Krick Modelltechnik Knittlingen August 2002
Item list for submarine type VIIb
This item list contains both the parts of the construction box (order no. 20310) and of the diving set
(order no. 20311)
Part
no. Description reqd. for
dive
model
reqd.
for
display
model
Qty. Material contained
in basic
set
20310
contained
in dive
set
20311
1 Hull side, right x x 1 ABS deep drawn part 2 mm x
2 Hull side, left x x 1 ABS deep drawn part 2 mm x
3 Connecting strips
hull floor x x 40 ABS residual material approx. 25x12x2 mm x
4 Connecting strips
deck x x 9 ABS residual material approx. 50x12x2 mm x
5 Connecting piece bow x x 1 ABS deep drawn part
1.5 mm x
6 Connecting piece stern x x 1 ABS deep drawn part
1.5 mm x
7 Cover fastening braces x 4 ABS deep drawn part
1.5 mm x
8 Cover fastening nuts x 4 Sealing nuts M3 x
9 Keel x x 1 ABS deep drawn part,
2 mm x
10 Keel triangle x x 2 ABS cut component 2 mm x
11 Pressure tank lower part x 1 ABS deep drawn part,
2 mm x
12 Pressure tank upper part x 1 ABS deep drawn part,
2 mm x
13 Hose aperture for
pressure tank x 2 Brass tube 5x0.45x25 mm x
14 Bowden cables x 2 3 mm plastic tube with
2 mm inner tube x
15 Pressure tank
reinforcement x 8 ABS residues x
16 Cover gasket for
pressure tank x 1 set Punched foam rubber 3 mm x
17 Cover, front,
pressure tank x 1 Transparent plastic x
18 Cover, centre,
pressure tank x 1 Transparent plastic x
19 Cover, rear,
pressure tank x 1 Transparent plastic x
20 Pine batten x 1 5x8x2000 mm in total x
21 Screws for pressure tank x 38 Countersunk screw,
M3x12 mm x
22 Nuts, pressure tank 38 Cap nuts M3 x
23 Stern tubes x x 2 Finished article x
24 Shaft with screw x x 2 Finished article x
25 Support brace for stern
tube x x 2 ABS, cutting part 2 mm x