Real Good Toys Beachside Bungalow User manual

Congratulations on your choice of a Real Good Toys product. Your kit has been precision made with meticulous
care by our craftspeople using carefully selected materials. This Dollhouse will last for years, even generations,
if heirloom care and attention is given during assembly. Take your time and read the instructions completely.
If you have questions, ask the experts at your local Dollhouse store or at [email protected]
Measure and identify the parts:
The kit is packed in
groupings that protect the parts, and that is how the Parts
List is organized. As you measure and identify the parts,
label them with sticky notes using the names from the
parts list, and check them off the parts list so you know
you have everything. Taking the time now to identify and
organize the parts also makes them familiar so you will
understand what the instructions intend as you read ahead.
• Plan ahead so you know where you are going
• Read ahead so you know how to get there
• Paint ahead so the parts will be ready when you need them
Instructions for
Real Good Toys’ the Beachside Bungalow Kit #B 1895
©01/17
Before you begin - You have already opened the box and
see all the parts organized in boxes and bundles. For the
moment, keep them that way. There are important things
to do before you open your glue bottle.
Choose your color scheme. Look at houses in your
community, models in your local Dollhouse shop or at our
website: realgoodtoys.com; look at plan books from a paint
store or architectural books at your library (a favorite is:
Painted Ladies by Michael Larsen and Elizabeth Pomada).
You will be painting some of the parts right away so get the
paint now. Choose high-quality interior semi-gloss latex
enamel paints for ease of use and durability.
Prepare your space: This dollhouse
will spread out over a large area while
it is being built. You will need a large
at tabletop for the house, several
boxes to keep parts organized until
they are needed, and several trays
lined with waxed paper for hold-
ing small parts like windows and
railings. A snap-lid box will
keep your tools and supplies
handy between building
sessions.
Tools and Supplies:
Tape measure or ruler, Pencil, Sticky notes
(like PostIts®)
White glue
(like Aleene’s Tacky Glue®)
for all construction
Solvent-based Panel Cement for shingles
Masking tape, Utility knife or coarse le
Fine tooth saw (razor saw
(like X-Acto®)
or a hacksaw)
Painting Supplies, Sandpaper
(especially 320gr)
Waxed paper
PostIts
®
, Aleene’s
®
, and X-Acto
®
are registered trademarks of their manufacturers
and have no afliation with Real Good Toys
Not suitable for children under 13 years of age
California 93120 compliant for formaldehyde phase 2
Options: www.realgoodtoys.com or your miniature dealer
6888: the “Best 1” Dollhouse Electrical Kit
Stucco Grit: Paint additive for foundation texture
Dye-1: Brown shingle dye
Dye-3: Grey shingle dye
SC: Copper ashing
1015: 6-panel interior doors for Dividers
J-FK Interior nishing materials: Baseboard
and crown moldings & stairway
banisters and landing rails.
This kit will accommodate 1” Scale furniture
Real Good Toys 122 Gallison Hill Rd Montpelier, VT 05602 802 262-6018 www.realgoodtoys.com

Box A Parts
(1) E9626 Dormer Front Wall: (1/4 clapboard) 91/4x 101/2, peaked, window cutout
(1) E9624 Dormer SideWall Left: (3/8 clapboard) 57/8tall x 47/8top, angled
(1) E9625 Dormer SideWall Right: (3/8 clapboard) 57/8tall x 47/8top, angled
(2) E9629 Handy Square: (1/4) Triangle ±23/4”
(1) E9637 Front Step Tread: (1/4) 81/4x 17/16
(1) E9645 Chimney Block: (1 x 13/8) 41/4, angled
(1) E9646 Chimney Cap: (3/8) 11/2x 11/8
(1) E9647 Chimney Cap: (3/8) 1 x 13/8
(3) E9649 Postbase Front: (1/8) 15/8 x 43/4
(2) E9650 Postbase BackEnd: (1/8) 15/8 x 43/4Inlet
(1) E9651 Postbase Back: (1/8) 15/8 x 23/4
(4) E9652 Postbase Side: (1/4) 13/8 x 43/4Inlet
(2) E9653 Postbase SideEnd: (1/4) 13/8 x 43/4
(3) E9655 Postbase Cap: (1/4) 17/8 x 17/8
(2) E9654 Post Cap: (1/8) 13/16 x 13/16 notch
(1) E9803 Stair Stringer: (1/8) 3/4x 107/8, angled
(1) E9812 Window Pane 5 x 6
(1) E9813 Window Pane 4 x 6
(2) E9643 Arch: (1/8) 33/8 x 2, shaped.
(1) U1119A Oval Light Door, assembled
(set) Door Interior Trim
Box B Parts
Rail Pack:
(2) E9659 Porch Rail: (W) 121/8
(4) E9660 Porch Rail: (W) 315/16
(32) E9661 Baluster: (1/8 x 5/16) 21/8
Brackets Pack
(18) E9663 Porch Rafter End: (3/16 x 5/16) 15/8 angled
(6) E9664 Dormer Rafter End: (3/16 x 5/16) 13/16 angled
(14) E9665 Bracket Base: (1/8 x 3/8) 11/2
(14) E9666 Bracket Strut: (1/8 x 3/8) 13/4 angled
(10) E9667 49oBracket Cap: (3/8 x 3/8 angled) 11/4
(4) E9668 35oBracket Cap: (3/8 x 3/16 angled) 11/4
Window Frame Pack
(4) E9804 6”Window Frame: 65/16
(2) E9805 5” Window Frame: 55/16
(2) E9806 4” Window Frame: 45/16
(2) E9810 Middle Frame: 47/16
(2) E9811 Middle Frame: 37/16
(4) E9808 Interior Trim: (3/32 x 7/16) 65/16
(2) E9809 Interior Trim: (3/32 x 7/16) 55/16
(2) E9807 Interior Trim: (3/32 x 7/16) 45/16
(2) E9662 Spacer (window): 11/2
(1) E9648 Groove-Fill: (1/16 x 3/8) 4
(950) E9814 Shingles: (1/16 x 3/4) 11/4
Cross Sections
Parts List page 2
Instructions for Kit #B 1895
Identify the parts: Open one bundle at-a-time. Measure each part and nd it on the parts list.
Label the parts and mark the parts list so you know you’ve found everything.
Postbase
Cap
Postbase
Front
Postbase
Back
Postbase
BackEnd
Postbase
Side
Postbase
SideEnd
Porch Rafter End
Dormer Rafter End
Bracket Base
Bracket Strut
Stair Stringer
Handy
Square
Arch
Window Panes
Door Interior Trim
Door
Chimney Block
Chimney
Caps
Window Frame
Middle Frame
Drawings are not all the same scale
Post
Cap
Dormer Front
Dormer Side
Front Step Block
Front Step Tread

Panels
(1) E9630 Porch Floor: (1/4) 2313/16 x 43/4
(1) E9621 Front Wall: (1/4 clapboard) 111/8x 243/16, cutouts
(1) E9622 Side Wall Left: (1/4 clapboard) 215/8tall x 117/8, angled
(1) E9623 Side Wall Right: (1/4 clapboard) 215/8tall x 117/8, angled
(1) E9638 Dormer Roof Left: (1/4) 97/8top x 715/16, angled, bevels
(1) E9639 Dormer Roof Right: (1/4) 97/8top x 715/16, angled, bevels
(1) E9631 Mid Floor: (3/8) 2313/16 x 1115/16, woodgrain, stair hole
(1) E9632 Base Floor: (1/4) 2313/16 x 1115/16, woodgrain
(1) E9627 Divider: (3/8) 9 x 117/8, door cutout
(2) E9628 Attic Divider: (3/8) 12 x 117/8
, angled, door cutout
(1) E9636 Front Step Block: (3/4) 81/4x 11/4
(2) E9640 Foundation, Long: (3/8) 2313/16 x 13/4, grooved
(2) E9644 Porch Post: (1 x 1) 5
(1) E9634 Rear Roof: (1/4) 273/16 x 43/4, attic cutout
(1) E9635 Porch Roof: (1/4) 273/16 x 71/16, bevel
(1) E9633 Front Roof: (1/4) 273/16 x 141/16, dormer cutout
along the side
Stripwood Pack
(4) E9656 Rafter Material: (3/16 x 5/16) 20
(4) E9657 Stripwood: (3/32 x 7/16) 20
(6) E9658 Stripwood: (3/32 x 5/16) 24
(1) E9642 Porch Beam: (1 x 13/8) 2413/16, shaped
(1) E9620 Attic Ceiling: (3/4x 13/8, triangular) 2311/16
(3) E9641 Foundation, Mid: (3/8) 163/8-x 13/4
(1) E9801 Bottom Stair Block: (6-step) 21/4, bottom bevel
(1) E9802 Top Stair Block: (6-step) 21/4, top bevel
Attic Divider
Parts List page 3
Instructions for Kit #B 1895
Long Foundation (front & back)
Mid Foundation
Porch Beam
Porch Roof
Front Roof
(The stair hole is closer to the front)
Mid Floor
Base Floor
Rear Roof
Dormer Roofs
Clapboard
Side Wall Front
Attic Ceiling
Divider
Top Stair Block
Bottom Stair Block
Porch Post

Exterior:
Exterior Paint Color:
see www.realgoodtoys.help for suggestions
Accessories:
Gingerbread
Flower Boxes
Foundation Stucco Grit
Octagonal Shingles
Fancy Windows and Doors
Turnposts and Spindles
Interior:
Wiring
Wallpaper
Interior paint color:
Ceilings
Painted walls
Interior trim
Flooring:
Applied wood, tile, or carpet
Banister & Landing Rails
Baseboard and Crown
Options for building the Beachside Bungalow Dollhouse
See your dealer or www.realgoodtoys.com
Doors:
#6022#6018 #1015
6803 Banister
& Landing Set
Wallpaper
Trim and Stripwood
Flute24
SW16
RGT8
Exterior Interior
Note: I often enlarge an interior door opening to t the #6022
#4017 Stair
and Landing Set
Split Octagonal Shingles Shingle Dye
Dye1: Reddish Brown
Dye3: Dark Grey
A Doghouse for
your Dollhouse
Real Good Toys’ Best1
Dollhouse Wiring Set
T10 Turntable (12” - holds 1000 lbs),
T250 Platform Turntable, and
ET250 Wired Turntable
Real Good Toys 122 Gallison Hill Rd Montpelier, VT 05602 802 262-6018 www.realgoodtoys.com
Slideshows, demos, useful links, details, and photos are all at:
www.realgoodtoys.help
HH-444
P-2000
DH
SWO

Assembly Notes /Getting Started (A) page 5
Instructions for Kit #B 1895
Assembly Notes:
A large, clutter-free, well-lighted work area is helpful
during assembly, but a at work surface is essential.
Read the instructions carefully; look at each of the
illustrations. !With the parts in your hands!, think
the assembly through before you proceed.
Test t each time you are ready to glue a piece in
place...then you’ll know you have it right.
If more tape or a helper is needed, it’s good to know
that before the parts have glue on them.
Don’t be stingy with glue or tape; use generous
amounts. Always wipe off excess glue immediately.
Keep one damp rag and one dry rag handy all the time.
Have weights available for holding things tight
as glue joints dry (stacks of books, gallons of pure
Vermont Maple Syrup - anything heavy)
Glue the body of your dollhouse together with
white, water clean-up glue that dries clear. Do not
use instant-bond (super glue), fast-tack, rubber ce-
ment, silicone, or hot melt glues. They are all used
in some wood applications, but they all have some
characteristic that makes them un-desirable for the
body of your dollhouse. Carpenter Glue works
well, but glue-smear dries yellow or tan; many of
the things you glue onto the house are pre-painted
– extra glue will show. I use Aleene’s Tacky Glue®
for all house body assembly.
Make sure everything is straight and at as glue
dries... That’s the shape that will be permanent.
Glue the shingles on with glue that doesn’t have
any water in it! If the glue says ”water clean-up”, it
will curl the wooden shingles. Look carefully at the
glue you intend to use to be sure it is solvent-based,
or use hot-melt glue (and watch out for the burns).
Check ingredients and warnings! Solvent-based
glues say “Caution, Flammable”.
If you Wallpaper , use Universal Barder Paste®.
Brush paste on the wallpaper, then the wall, and
nally smooth the wallpaper into position.
When glue is drying, skip ahead to up-coming as-
sembly steps and prepare the parts that will be used.
Before you begin, read the “Finish the Inside” sec-
tion on the last page.
A: Getting Started: Do these things before the house assembly
Make two cuts in each
corner from the outside (one
from each direction), then
cut from each direction on
the inside to cut away the
rounding in the corner so
the window, door, or stairs
will t.
Stain the Shingles: Our pro uses Real Good Toys’ Shingle
Dye (available through your miniature dealer or www.real-
goodtoys.com) when dying the shingles for this house.
S quare the corners of the window, door, and stair holes with
a utility knife - each cutout has a rounded corner left over
from the tool that made it.
You can also use a penetrating
stain (like “Minwax”). Do not
use surface-coating stain to
batch-nish the shingles.
Batch dye or stain the shingles
several days ahead of time so
they will be dry when the time
comes to use them (instruc-
tions are with the shingle dye).
OnLine Support: There are many photos of Dollhouses under construction as well as tips, techniques,
and extra help with your dollhouse project at: www.realgoodtoys.help
Wiring? Some of the steps are easiest before and
during assembly. See www.realgoodtoys.help to
plan your wiring project

Instruction for Kit #B 1895 Getting Started:
Do these things before the house assembly
Can I do it differently? Yes you can - it’s your house!
The information on these pages is offered as “best practices” advice, and it is what we do when we build this house.
If you are customizing or have something else in mind, test-ahead to make sure your planning includes everything!
Painting: www.realgoodtoys.help has painting and sanding videos
Paint (rst-coat) everything. Don’t try to sand , ll, primp, or do much of anything to the wood before the rst
coat. The rst coat lls and reinforces the wood so sanding clips off the bers rather than pushing them around. The
rst-coat is all about what penetrates and lls the wood. There is no expectation that more than a hint of paint will
be on the surface. Don’t ‘double paint’ or try to give it an extra thick rst coat as you watch the paint soak in... that is
expected and preferred.
The rst benet of painting before assembly (one-coat) is that it is the easiest time to do a really thorough job of sand-
ing after painting. The difference between a heirloom-grade nish on a dollhouse and a “I-was-in-a-hurry” nish is
most often the quality of the sanding, and it’s hard to sand into the little hidden corners of an assembled dollhouse, but
it’s easy to sand the at panels layed out on a workbench.
So sand everything now - sand until the paint is smooth and transparent with no scratchiness to it, and with lots of
wood showing through the paint. For the clapboard walls, sand “one clapboard course at-a-time”: fold the sandpaper
and hold it on your nger-tips, then sand back-and-forth across one clapboard’s suface 2 or 3 times, then move up to
the next clapboard. “One at a time” is what makes it smooth and “Heirloom-Great”.
Second coat everything after building the housebody up to the top of the Walls (before attaching the Roof). The sec-
ond coat goes on smooth and creamy, and except for touchup, it may be enough.
First-coat Sanding one course at a time
Clean the edges and grooves before assembly. A little paint always builds-out
the corner of an edge or groove and will make assembly harder and the glue joint
less strong. Test the Floor in their grooves to see that they t well.
Cleaning a groove with the
back of a utility knife blade
Q: How can I prevent glue from seeping onto the oor after I clamp (tape) the Sides together?
A: Do not skimp on the glue... a little squeezing out tells you that there’s enough glue in the joint. Clean up the
squeezings with a damp rag followed by a dry rag, and the little bit that remains down in the grooves will shrink back
as it dries, and will not be visible.
This issue is one of the reasons it is important to pre-nish the oors before assembly. I know, the nish tries to bead
up when you rst put it on and it is ‘paint-can-runny’, but as you wipe the rst-coat off just keep rubbing it out as it
loses it’s excess moisture and starts to get tacky - that rst coat will eventually behave itself and lay down properly.
I like to do the rst-coat-rub-out with a crumple of brown paper bag so I can rub vigorously and ‘de-shine’ the print
ooring, but other builders report success with just brushing and brushing until the moisture level gets right. After the
nish is dry, do a very light de-shine with a non-woven abrasive pad (like ‘Scotch Brite”, the green pad you use in the
kitchen for stainless steel pots... a used one is just right), and then do a second coat.
Where two colors of paint will be next to each other, the neatest result will be
achieved if the parts are marked and painted to just cover the mark, leaving the
rest of the joint un-painted. That way, when they are glued together, the glue joint
will have wood for strength (glue doesn’t stick well to paint), and the joint between
colors will be perfect (impossible to achieve with masking for painting)

Pre-assembly page 7
Instructions for kit #B 1895
A Railing Assembly demo is available online at www.realgoodtoys.help
□1. Rail Assembly
A. 1. Paint (the rst coat) and sand the Rails before assembly.
Wipe any paint out of the grooves, and do not paint the Rail ends at all (wipe
the ends to eliminate paint that sneaks around the corner).
Paint the Ballusters.
B. Assemble the Railing:
1. Set one Rail on the assembly diagram, lined up on each end;
tape it in place so it won’t move. Put a dab of glue on a Balluster
end, and push it into the groove at a balluster locator on the dia-
gram. Straighten and adjust the Balluster to exactly line up with the
diagram, then put in the next Balluster.
Repeat until all the Ballusters are in place. Do a nal inspection
and adjustment.
3. Squeeze the Rails together so the Ballusters are fully in the grooves.
4. Hold the Railing set on the drawing; make the Rail ends exactly line
up. Adjust the Ballusters - - straight and square. Tape together Dividers
to form a square inside corner, and lay the Railing in the corner as the
glue dries - keep the ends square!
C. Paint (second-coat) the Railing
2. Support the Ballusters with a piece of stripwood; dab a little glue onto
each Balluster end. Hold the second Rail over the Balluster’s ends at an
angle.
Push down and scoop the Ballusters’ ends into the groove.
2. Sand (320 grit) the Rails and Ballusters. Sand the
Rail’s grooves with a folded piece of sandpaper.
Balluster Paint (one coat) and Sand
the Rails and Ballusters
Diagram
Rail
Tape
Support
stripwood
C. Put a nish on the oors now to protect them from the mess and
wear-and-tear of construction. Do not use penetrating stain on these
oors. Use a surface-coating nish like acrylic urethane or a “one-
coat” stain + nish like “PolyShades” (polyurethane mixed with stain).
Wipe the rst coat off completely and, when dry, take off the shine with
very ne abrasive (a used scotch-brite pad is ideal), then put on a full
thickness second coat.
Remove the last page from the instructions; cut and join the diagrams
for a Railing Assembly Diagram large enough for the 121/8” Railing.

□2 Foundation. Glue and tape the Foundation Longs
(2313/16”) and Foundation Mids (163/8”) together.
Tape the Base Floor to the Foundation to hold it square as
the glue dries. If you haven’t put nish on the Base Floor
yet, tape it up-side-down so the tape won’t damage the
ooring (see “Put nish on the oors now”, page 7).
Foundation page 8Instructions for kit #B 1895
□3. Porch Posts:
A. Sort the Postbases into these 5 categories:
Long Foundation
13/4
2313/16
163/8
Postbase
Front
Postbase
Back
Postbase
SideEnd
15/815/813/8”
43/4”
23/4”
Postbase
Side
13/8”
Postbase
BackEnd
15/8
43/4
1/8Thick 1/4Thick
□3B Center Postbase:
(1) Lay one Postbase Front at, glue and tape two
Postbase Sides to it, lined up on the edges.
(2) Glue and tape a Postbase Back to the assembly.
(3) Line up the edges and ends, with extra
attention to the edges in the cutout.
Postbase Sides
Lined up
Postbase Front
3B (1)
Center Postbase
3B (2)
Postbase Back
3B (3) up-side-down
Line up the parts in
the cutout
Mid Foundation
a
a
43/4”43/4”

Porch Posts page 9
Instructions for kit #B 1895
□3C End Postbases:
(1) Lay two Postbase Fronts at, glue and tape one Post-
base Side to each, lined up on opposite edges to make
one left set and one right set.
(2) Glue and tape a Postbase SideEnd to each assembly.
Postbase Side
3C (1)
Left and Right Sets
are mirrors of each other
Postbase Front 3C (2)
Left set
Postbase SideEnd
□4. Glue the Porch Posts to Post Caps, centered.
Pro tip: I usually paint the Porch Post and Post Caps the
same color, so I paint them (one coat) rst, sand them,
glue them together, and paint them again (second-coat).
Note: the notch is for an arch (see page 20).
Texture Paint: Real Good Toys’ “Stucco Grit” mixed with
paint is tough and good looking on Foundations, Postbases,
and the Front Step Block. Paint (one coat) the base color and
sand now, and apply the paint + grit during nal assembly.
□5. Glue the Porch Posts to PostBase Caps, centered.
Look from every angle to make sure the Posts are straight.
Step 4:
Porch Post
Post Cap
Step 5
PostBase Cap
a
Front
3C (3) Left Set viewed from the bottom
Right set is the mirror
Side
BackEnd
SideEnd
(3) Glue and tape the Postbase BackEnd to
the back edges of the Postbase Sides 3C (3).
(4) Line up the edges and ends with extra
attention to the edges in the cutout.
Let the glue dry, then paint the Postbases.

□6. Glue, tape, and weight the Porch Floor to the Foundation,
carefully lined up on the edges. Finish painting the Porch Floor
before you attach the housebody to this assembly.
Instructions for kit #B 1895 page 10
a
Step 6
Porch Floor
Lined Up!
Base Floor temporarily
taped to the Foundation
to hold it square
Step 7A: front edges are up
The Base Floor sticks out
1/16” in front
Stair hole is to the Front
Step 7B: front edges are up
The Mid Floor sticks out
1/16” in frontBase Floor
Tape
Step 7C: Groove Fill
a
□7. A. Spread glue in the grooves of both Sides. Tape the Base
Floor to the Sides, lined up in back (the oor sticks out 1/16” in
front). Make sure the Floor is all the way to the top of the Sides’
grooves.
B. Set the Mid Floor into the grooves lined up in back (the oor
sticks out 1/16” in front), and with the stairhole closer to the front
(up). Hold the Sides tight onto the Mid Floor with a piece of tape
above where the Front will attach so the tape won’t be in the way.
C. Glue and tape the Groove-Fill into the exposed groove within the
stairhole.
Wiring? Some of the steps are easiest before and
during assembly. See www.realgoodtoys.help to
plan your wiring project

Line up and tape along both sides
The Base Floor is pushed to
the top of the groove
Tape all the way around the housebody
to hold the parts tight
Tape
□ 7. D. Glue and tape the Front to the Sides and Floors.
- Line up the bottom corners side-to-side - tape the Front to the Base.
- Line up the top corners side-to-side - tape the Front to the Sides.
- Make sure the Base is all the way to the top of the Front’s grooves.
- Put the Divider between the Floors.
- Stand the Housebody upright and check the fit of all the parts.
- Tape (more tape!) the parts together so all joints are tight.
- Lay the Housebody on its back, weight the Front.
- Check: the Base Floor is all the way to the top of the groove.
Instructions for kit #B 1895 page 11
□ 7. E: Glue and tape the Attic Ceiling to the Sides, lined up on top.
- Check that the floors are lined up in back and in the grooves in front.
- Lay the Housebody on its back, weight the Front.
- Check that the Base Floor is all the way to the top of the groove.
- Let the glue dry.
Attic Ceiling
Attic Ceiling
Lined up on top
Weight the Front
Check that the Base Floor is
pressed to the top of the groove
The Floors are in the grooves
Step 7D: Line up the Front side-to-
side, tape along the bottom

Instructions for kit #B 1895 Test Assembly: Roofs page 12
□8 Draw Shingle Guidelines spaced 1” apart,
starting from the top of each roof . Look at the
drawings to identify the outside of the Roofs (a
dotted line shows a beveled edge that faces down).
Porch Roof
(bevel faces up)
Front Roof
(bevel faces up)
Rear Roof
(bevel faces down)
Dormer Roofs
(bevels face down)
□9 Turn the Roofs over and draw painting
guidelines spaced from the edges as shown.
Paint to just barely cover the lines.
Note: these are guidelines for the eave paint
(outside of the walls). For ceiling paint, draw a
second guideline 1/8” inside the rst (see below).
Pro Tip: Paint the interior ceilings with one coat,
and sand them now. Leave about 1/8” unpainted
for gluing the Roof to the Walls. Sand until the
paint gets transparent and the wood begins to
show thru (this allows Dividers to be glued in).
Paint the second coat after assembly is done.
11/2”
11/2”
Stand the Dormer Roofs on their front
edges and use a divider to extend the
marks for shingle lines.
a
a
11/2”
111/16”
11/2”
1/2” unpainted
1/8” unpainted
11/4”

□10. Glue and tape Dormer Sides to the Dormer Front,
lined up at the top. Tape Handy Squares into the assembly
to hold the Sides square.
Lined up on top
Dormer Side
Dormer Side
Lined up on top
Handy Square
□11. Glue, tape, and weight the House-
body to the Foundation and Porch Floor,
spaced evenly side-to-side.
Everything that you attach to the house
assembly from now on should be fully
painted (except for texture paint... that
will be applied in steps 12 - 14)
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Centered side-to-side
Tape
Weights
Tape thru the door
Instructions for Kit #B 1895 page 13
Prepare aps of tape

Assemble the Porch: These instructions are customized for
stucco/texture paint. The Foundation, the Postbases, and the
Step are painted with one coat only of the paint color with no
texture additive, and they are sanded. The Rails, the Post sets,
the Arches, and the Porch Beam are painted with two coats.
Stucco/texture paint is mixed and ready.
Without glue, set up the Porch parts. You may wish to lift the
Rails with some shingles.
□12. Set the Front Step between the Postbases. Set the Tread
in place up-side-down (to “mask” the place on the foundation
where it will be glued); Texture paint the Foundation above the
Steps - avoid the edge of the Base Floor - trim will attach there
after everything else is done (keeping the texture paint away
from an edge is possible because the rst-coat is the same color,
so the texture paint only has to approach the edge).
Now there is texture paint on the Foundation where it will be
visible, and there is no texture paint where the Step or Postbases
will glue.
Clean off the bottom of the Tread.
Do not glue the Step to the Foundation yet.
315/16” Railing 315/16” Railing
121/8” Railing
Front Step
End Postbase
Center Postbase
Handy Square
Porch Beam
Corner Postbase
□13. On the Left end, glue the 315/16” Railing in place about
1/8” from the edge of the oor (and lifted with pairs of shingles if
desired). Put glue on both ends of the Railing.
Put the Postbase in place so it touches the Railing and gets a dot
of glue from each rail.
Texture paint the back and right side of the Postbase but do not
texture paint where the glue dots are... the grit in the texture paint
will interfere with the rail’s glue joint. (You are putting texture
paint in places that will be next to other colors for a clean paint-
line, and you are not texture painting the left or front edges so you
can put the Handy Square and Porch Beam against the Postbase to
straighten it... you will paint those surfaces after the glue dries).
Glue the Postbase to the Foundation, Porch Floor, and Railing.
Straighten the Postbase with Handy Squares and the Porch Beam.
Check that the Railing is straight.
Let the glue dry.
Housebody
Step 13:
315/16” Railing
Instructions for Kit #B 1895 page 14
Glue dots

Instructions for kit #B 1895 page 15
315/16” Railing
121/8” Railing
Step
End Postbase
Center Postbase
Looking down on the porch
Handy Square
Porch Beam
Lift
□15. Glue a Postbase Cap to the Center Postbase, centered.
Glue Post assemblies to the corner Postbases, centered and straight.
Aim the notches for the arches toward each other (toward the center).
Glue the Porch Beam to the Postcaps, lined up with the Posts.
Inspect the Posts carefully and adjust them if necessary to make them
straight from the front and from the side.
Step 15:
Side View
Lined up
□14. Repeat the glue-dot, paint, and glue process for the
other side of the porch. Do the “glue-dot” routine with the
Front Railing and the Side Railing at the same time. Mark,
Texture-paint, and glue both Postbases in place.
Straighten the Postbases with Handy Squares and the Porch
Beam. Make sure the Postbases are tight on the Railings,
tight on the Porch, straight, and square.
Straighten the Railings.
Let the glue dry.
Finish painting the Postbases and Foundation.
Note: If the Beam doesn’t line up
with the Posts front-to-back, the
Porch Rafters may not t
Glue dots

Instructions for kit #B 1895 page 16
□17. Glue and tape the Rear Roof to the Sides
and Attic Ceiling, lined up at the top and centered
side-to-side (11/2” overhang).
□16. Cut wide Stripwood (3/32 x 7/16) for the Side Trim. Hold
the Stripwood against the Side, lined up at the back edge and
bottom. Use the top of the Side and Front wall as a cutting guide
- cut the Stripwood with a ne-tooth saw (like the X-Axto razor
saw) Save the cutoffs for Dormer Trim
Cut a Side Trim pair for the other side too. Glue and tape the Trim
to the Sides
Step 16
Side Trim
Lined up at the bottom
Use the top of the wall as
a cutting guide
Detail of Trim
The bevel on the top of the Rear Roof
lines up with the front edge of the Side
This piece of tape keeps the
Rear Roof from slipping down

Instructions for kit #B 1895 page 17
□18. Lay out the Front Roof and Porch Roof up-side-down.
Tape them together with the points of the bevels touching. Turn
them over and spread glue in the bevel where they touch. Without
glue, set the Front and Rear Roof on the housebody. Tape over
the top and thru the dormer cutout to hold the parts in position as
the glue dries.
□19. When the glue is dry, remove the Roofs and take off the tape; spread glue on
the housebody and Porch Beam where the Roofs touched, and glue the Roofs back
in place. Inspect the t side-to-side (11/2”), and make sure the Roofs make a good
t with the Front Wall inside the Dormer hole.
Check the Porch Beam’s position by holding a Porch Rafter against it on both ends.
The Rafters must t the edge of the Porch Roof the same on both ends
(they do not have to line up with the edge - they do have to t the same).
Step 18: up-side-down
The points of the Bevels
are touching
Tape
Step 19: Porch Rafters
t the same on both ends
Detail of the Roof’s Bevels
right-side-up
Inspect the t here
Front
Porch Rafter

Instructions for kit #B 1895 page 18
□22. Tape together the Dormer Roofs at the peak. Test them in
place on the Dormer, and mark the position on the Front Roof.
Glue and tape the Dormer Roofs to the Dormer and Front Roof.
□20. Glue and tape the Dormer to the house, lined up
on the inside of the cutout.
□21. Cut Dormer Vertical Trim for the Dormer. Use
3/32 x 5/16 Stripwood for the side trim, and left overs of
the 3/32 x 7/16 Stripwood used on the Side Vertical Trim
for the front. Cut the Side Trim rst, then the Front Trim.
Leave a gap at the bottom for shingles (2 thicknesses
of shingles) so you won’t have to cut the shingles to go
around the Trim.
Glue and tape the Trim in place.
Dormer Side Trim
3/32 x 5/16
Dormer Front Trim
3/32 x 7/16
Step 22: Dormer Roofs
Mark the position
Builder’s note: It’s always hard getting down-
pressure on the back edge of the Dormer Roof.
Sometimes I tape weights to the Dormer Roofs;
this time I taped two Attic Dividers together and
hung them over the Dormer Roofs, then taped
them to the roof. After the Front edge of the
Dormer Roof was taped down, I looked under
the Dormer Roof’s overhang, and could see how
much down pressure was needed to get contact
at the top of the Dormer Side. I pulled down on
the outside of the Attic Dividers with long aps
of tape on the left and right evenly until the t
was good.
Attic Dividers taped together
and to the roof
“Down-pressure” tape
“Down-pressure” tape

Instructions for kit #B 1895 page 19
□23. Arrange a backstop that makes a right angle (90o) with
the work surface. Protect the work surface with waxed paper.
Glue together 14 Bracket Bases and Struts. Clean up the glue
excess (a paint brush and cup of water); let the glue dry.
Brackets
The easiest and strongest bracket construction is
with rst-coated parts that have been sanded.
49oBracket Left
49oBracket Right
35oBracket Left
35oBracket Right
Strut
Bracket Base
Bracket Base
Strut
Backstop
Bracket
Cap
□24. Glue a Bracket Cap to each Bracket Base/Strut. Make:
5) 49oBrackets Left (flat is on top)
5) 49oBrackets Right (flat is on top)
2) 35oBrackets Left (flat is on the left)
2) 35oBrackets Right (flat is on the right)
Notice the “ats” on the Bracket Caps.
That’s the way you’ll know they are
aimed the right direction
“Flat”
If a Bracket needs a little adjustment to straighten it, a few seconds
in a microwave will warm and soften the glue.
5 seconds or so... too much heat will scorch the paint.
Middle Frame
Spacer
This is a cross-section from the top
of how the windows will be installed
Window Frame
Window Pane
Interior Trim
Window Frame
Temporary use of the Spacer to
locate the Middle Frames
Interior Trim
Window Assembly:
dhbuilder.com has more window assembly photos
□25. Glue and tape together the window frame sets. Turn the
frames over and stretch a rubber band around the lip on the inside.
Make:
1) frame using 6” and 5” Window Frames
1) frame using 6” and 4” Window Frames
Turn the Window Frame sets back over, and glue Middle Frames into
each window. Space the Middle Frames using the 11/2” Spacer.
□26. Glue and tape together Interior Trim. Window Panes and
interior trim will be installed as part of the Interior Finishing Plan
(see the page 26).
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Instructions for kit #B 1895 page 20
□27. Pull the bottom hinge pin to disassemble the door
for painting. Tape the pins under the threshold so you
don’t lose them (a cut off of a paper clip can substitute
for a lost pin). Re-assemble the door when the painting
is done. Glue in the pane with a tiny dot of super-glue or
silicon glue in each corner.
Rafters
Turn the house up-side-down on several thicknesses of cardboard.
□28A. Porch Rafter Ends: Lightly mark the underside of the
Porch Roof every 11/2” from right to left, then again from left to
right. This will give you pairs of marks 3/16” apart for locating
the Porch Rafter Ends.
Glue the Porch Rafter Ends to the Roof and edge of the Porch
Beam. Use the Handy Square to keep them straight.
Porch Rafter End
Porch Rafter End
□28B. Arches: Glue Arches to the Posts and Porch Beam,
centered front-to-back in the notch.
Arch
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