Real Good Toys Victorian Painted Lady User manual

Instructions for
Real Good Toys’ the Victorian Painted Lady Kit #JM-4600
©06/16
Congratulations on your choice of a Real Good Toys product. Your kit has been precision made with meticulous care by
our craftspeople using carefully selected materials. This Dollhouse will last for years, even generations, if heirloom care
and attention is given during assembly. Take your time and read the instructions completely. If you have questions, ask
the experts at your local Dollhouse store or at [email protected]
Measure and identify the parts: The kit is packed in
groupings that protect the parts, and that is how the Parts
List is organized. As you measure and identify the parts,
label them with sticky notes using the names from the
parts list, and check them off the parts list so you know
you have everything. Taking the time now to identify
and organize the parts also makes them familiar so you
will understand what the instructions intend as you read
ahead.
• Plan ahead so you know where you are going
• Read ahead so you know how to get there
• Paint ahead so the parts will be ready when you
need them
Before you begin - You have already opened the box and
see all the parts organized in boxes and bundles. For the
moment, keep them that way. There are important things to
do before you open your glue bottle.
Choose your color scheme. Look at houses in your com-
munity, models in your local Dollhouse shop or at our web-
site: realgoodtoys.com; look at plan books from a paint store
or architectural books at your library (a favorite is: Painted
Ladies by Michael Larsen and Elizabeth Pomada). You will
be painting some of the parts right away so get the paint
now. Choose high-quality semi-gloss latex enamel paints
for ease of use and durability.
Prepare your space: This dollhouse will spread out over a
large area while it is being built. You will need a large at
tabletop for the house, several boxes to keep parts organized
until they are needed, and several trays lined with waxed
paper for holding small parts like windows and railings.
A snap-lid box will keep your tools and supplies handy
between building sessions.
Real Good Toys 122 Gallison Hill Rd Montpelier VT 05602 802 479-2217 www.realgoodtoys.com
Not suitable for children under 13 years of age
California 93120 compliant for formaldehyde phase 2
www.realgoodtoys.help
Supplies:
Paint: Interior semi-gloss latex paint... Everything gets at least one coat before assembly - get the paint now.
Paintbrushes 1” or 2” foam brushes for each color, 3” foam roller for interior painting
Sandpaper: 320 grit, 3-5 sheets
Glue: Aleene’s Tacky Glue for the dollhouse, Solvent-Based panel cement for shingles
Masking tape: ¾” or 1”
Wiring: it’s easiest to install some parts during assembly… order wiring supplies now.
Wallpaper paste: Roman’s “Border” Paste

Side
Front
Inset Inset
Porch Spacer
Parts List page 2
Instructions for Kit #JM-4600
Identify the parts: Open one bundle at-a-time. Measure each part and nd it on the parts list.
Label the parts and group them by the ‘instruction section #’ at the end of each part’s name(#).
These groups are how the parts will be used.
Divider
Stairhole is centered
Mid Floor
Corner
Face
Back
Tower Roofs
Spacer
Gable Triangle
Attic Front
Attic Divider
Bevel
Gable Roof
Base Floor
Cutting Guide
Top Stair Block
Bottom Stair Block
Bay Floor
Tower Back Walls
CtrLeft
Right
Parts: (measurements are approximate and are for identication purposes only)
(2) E9421 Front Wall1: (Clapboard) 93/4x 111/4, doorway
(3) E9415 Bay Floor1: (3/8) 3 x 8, angled
(2) E9437 Side Foundation1: (3/8) 151/2x 13/4
(1) E9429 Tower Back, Left3: (Clapboard) 33/4x 91/4, angled, bev.
(4) E9422 Inset Wall1: (Clapboard) 93/4x 31/2
(2) E9417 Divider1: (3/8) 93/4x 12, doorway
(1) E9441 Cutting Guide7: (3/8) 67/8[±] x 17/8, angle
(4) E3617 Bottom Stair Blocks9: (6Step) 21/4
(1) E9413 Attic Front1: (3/8) 1311/16tall x 1013/16base, Oval Window
(2) E9414 Gable Triangle3: (3/8) 41/4tall x 81/2base Triangle
(1) E9431 Tower Back, Ctr3: (Clapboard) 43/4 x 73/8, angled, bev.
(2) E9439 Porch Spacer1: (3/8) 1017/32 x 31/2
(2) E9420 Side Wall1: (Clapboard) 205/8x 157/8, grooved
Big Box
(1) E9432 Tower Ceiling5: (3/4) 11 x 87/8, angles, molded edge
(1500) E9497 Shingles
(1) E9447 Kneewall1: (1/2x 1/2triangle) 187/8
(1) E9448 Kneewall1: (1/2x 1/2triangle) 157/8
(1) E9416 Gable Floor1: (3/8) 81/2x 33/8
(1) E9408 Right Eave: (3/8) 1311/32 x 1
(1) E9444 Front Step, TopA: (5/8) 1 x 6
(1) E9445 Front Step, BottomA: (5/8) 2 x 6
(9) E9485 1/2” Stripwood7: (1/2x 3/32) ~201/2
(1) E9403 Tower Roof Face 5: (1/4) 11 x 55/8base, angled, bev.
(4) E9402 Tower Roof Corner 5: (1/4) 11 x 45/8base, angled, bev.
(1) E9404 Tower Roof Spacer5: (1/4) 73/8 x 55/8base, angled, bev.
(1) E9406 Left-top Eave: (3/8) 8 x 1, miters
(2) E9409 Gable Roof3: (3/8) 71/2x 4, bev.
(1) E9418 Attic Divider1: (3/8) 101/16 x 151/2Bev, doorway
(1) E9419 Porch EdgeA: (1/4) 145/16, x 3/8
(2) E9438 Foundation Spacer1: (3/8) 87/16 x 13/4
(1) E9525 Step BackA: (1/4) 71/4x 13/4
(1) E9401 Right Roof2: (3/8) 207/8 x 167/8 , bevel
(1) E9400 Left Roof2: (3/8) 207/8 x 167/8 , bevel, cutout
(1) E9412 Mid Floor1: (3/8) 27 x 157/8, stair hole
(2) E9436 Middle Foundation1: (3/8) 18 x 13/4
(1) E9411 Top Floor1: (3/8) 27 x 157/8, stair hole
(1) E9433 Front Foundation1: (1/2) 231/2x 13/4, bevels
(1) E9435 Back Foundation1: (1/2) 27 x 13/4, notches
(1) E9410 Base Floor1: (3/8) 27 x 187/8, angles
Tower Ceiling
Stairhole is closer to the front
Top Floor
(Buttress and treads
are listed on
the next page)

(1) E9407 Left-bottom Eave: (
3
/ 8 ) 2
3
/ 16 x 1, miters
(1) E9465 Nosing, Left-Bottom Roof: (
1
/ 2 x
9
/ 16 molding) 2
1
/ 2 , miter
(1) E9463 Nosing, Right Roof: (
1
/ 2 x
9
/ 16 molding) 13
1
/ 2 , miter
(1) E9464 Nosing, Left-Top Roof: (
1
/ 2 x
9
/ 16 molding) 8
7
/ 8 , miters
(1) E9467 Nosing, Gable Left Roof: (
1
/ 2 x
9
/ 16 molding) 7
5
/ 8 , miter
(1) E9466 Nosing, Gable Right Roof: (
1
/ 2 x
9
/ 16 molding) 7
5
/ 8 , miter
(1) E9468 Nosing, Gable Base: (
1
/ 2 x
1
/ 2 molding) 9
1
/ 2 , miters
(1) E9469 Cornice, Porch Ceiling: (1 x
3
/ 4 molding) 11
1
/ 2 , miters
(1) E9470 Cornice, Balcony Ceiling: (1 x
3
/ 4 molding) 10
7
/ 8 , miters
(1) E9471 Attic Tabling Trim (
5
/ 8 x
9
/ 16 molding) 8
3
/ 4 , miters
(1) E9472 Attic Crosspiece: (
5
/ 8 x
9
/ 16 molding) 11
3
/ 4 , miters
(1) E9473 Gable Crosspiece: (
5
/ 8 x
9
/ 16 molding) 6
1
/ 4 , miters
(2) E9489 Balcony Rail
9
: (
5
/ 16 x
5
/ 16 molding) 10
11
/ 32
(2) E9490 Arch Rail
9
: (
5
/ 16 x
1
/ 4 molding) 10
17
/ 32
(1) E9474 Window Ledge 5
5
/ 8 , miters
(2) E9475 Window Ledge 4
5
/ 8 , miters
(2) E9456 Stringer
A
: (
3
/ 8 x
5
/ 16 ) 12-, //angles
(40) E9009
3
/ 8 Beads
9
Parts List page 3
Instructions for Kit #JM-4600
Cross sections
Stringer
Right Roof
Left Roof
Side Front
Middle
Base
Bay Walls
Top
Cross sections
Drawings are not all the same scale
Bay Walls (Clapboard)
(3) E9423 Front Mid1: 33/8x 43/4, groove, bev.
(6) E9424 Side Mid1: 33/8x 33/4, groove, bev.
(2) E9425 Front Base1: 17/8x 43/4, groove, bev.
(2) E9426 Side Base1: 17/8x 33/4, groove, bev.
(2) E9427 Front Top1: 11/2x 43/4, bev.
(6) E9428 Side Top/Base2: 11/2x 33/4, bev.
(2) E9455 Top Stair Blocks9: (1Step) 21/4
(1) E9440 Stairhole Glueblock1: (3/8) 21/4 x 1/4
(1) E9430 Tower Back, Right3: (Clapboard) 33/4x 27/8, angled, bev.
(2) E9443 Front Step, ButtressA: (5/8) 23/16 x 111/16, angled,
(2) E9434 Corner Foundation
1
: (
1
/ 2 ) 3
1
/ 2 x 1
3
/ 4 , bevels
(1) E9405 Tower Roof Back 5: (1/4) 31/2 x 27/16base, angled, bev.
(2) E9442 Front Spacer1: (1/8) 73/4x 1
(2) E9446 Front Step, TreadA: (1/8) 11/8x 6
(1) Tower Ceiling Groove Fill 5: (1/4 x 1/8) 713/16.
(7) E9449 Window Block
4
: (
3
/ 8 ) 1 / 8 x 3
5
/ 16
(14) E9450 Window Block
4
: (
3
/ 8 ) 1 / 8 x 2
5
/ 16
(2) E9451 Window Block
4
: (
3
/ 8 ) 1
1
/ 8 x 3
5
/ 16
(4) E9452 Window Block
4
: (
3
/ 8 ) 1
1
/ 8 x 2
5
/ 16
(1) E9453 Window Block
4
: (
3
/ 8 ) 2
1
/ 8 x 3
5
/ 16
(2) E9454 Window Block
4
: (
3
/ 8 ) 2
1
/ 8 x 2
5
/ 16
Window Horizontal Frames (
7
/ 16 x
5
/ 16 molding)
(20) E9461 3
1
/ 2 miter 45°/\45°
(40) E9462 2
1
/ 2 miter 45°/\45°
Window Vertical Frames (
7
/ 16 x
5
/ 16 molding)
(24) E9459 5
3
/ 4 miter 45°/\45°
(12) E9460 4
3
/ 4 miter 45°/\45°
Window Vertical Frames (
7
/ 16 x
5
/ 16 molding)
(24) E9458 6
3
/ 4 miter 45°/\45°
Box
(1) 2019 Oval Window
Raised Panels
8:
(1
1
/ 2 x
1
/ 8 molding)
(1) E9479 1
1
/ 2 ” Raised Panel: 3
1
/ 4
(2) E9480 1
1
/ 2 ” Raised Panel: 2
1
/ 4
(2) E9481
1
/ 2 ” Raised Panel: 3
1
/ 4
(4) E9482
1
/ 2 ” Raised Panel: 2
1
/ 4
Pilaster: (
3
/ 4 x
3
/ 16 molding)
(4) E9477 1
17
/ 32
(3) E9478 1
1
/ 8
(2) E9476 4
3
/ 4
Cross sections
Stripwood stock is bundled for total yield... counts and lengths may vary
(2) E9483 1” Stripwood
1
: (1 x
1
/ 8 ) ~18
(2) E9484
3
/ 4 ” Stripwood
7
: (
3
/ 4 x
3
/ 32 ) ~18
(3) E9487
3
/ 16 ” Stripwood
6
: (
3
/ 16 x
3
/ 32 ) ~18
(5) E9488
1
/ 8 ” dowel
6
: ~18
(10) E9457A Bay Vertical, Corner
9
: 6
3
/4
(10) E9457B Bay Vertical, Side
9
: (
3
/ 8 x
3
/ 4 molding) 6
3
/4
A
B
(1) E9491 Window Pane (Printed) 4
3
/ 8 x 3
1
/ 8
(2) E9492 Window Pane (Printed) 5
3
/ 8 x 3
1
/ 8
(2) E9493 Window Pane (Printed) 6
3
/ 8 x 3
1
/ 8
(2) E9494 Window Pane (Printed) 4
3
/ 8 x 2
1
/ 8
(4) E9495 Window Pane (Printed) 6
3
/ 8 x 2
1
/ 8
(4) E9496 Window Pane (Printed) 5
3
/ 8 x 2
1
/ 8
(2) 6002 Door
with Interior Trim (see page 24)

Assembly Notes /Getting Started (A) page 4
Instructions for Special Edition Kit #JM-1065 Victoria’s Farmhouse
Exterior:
Exterior Paint Color:
see www.realgoodtoys.help for suggestions
Accessories:
Gingerbread
Flower Boxes
Foundation Stucco Grit
Octagonal Shingles
Fancy Windows and Doors
Turnposts and Spindles
Interior:
Wiring
Wallpaper
Interior paint color:
Ceilings
Painted walls
Interior trim
Flooring:
Faux-wood nish (do it now)
Applied wood, tile, or carpet
Painted oors
Banister & Landing Rails
Window and Door trim
Baseboard and Crown
Options for building the Victorian Painted Lady Dollhouse
Doors:
#6022#6018 #1015
Wallpaper
Trim and Stripwood
Flute24
SW16
RGT8
Exterior Interior
Note: I often enlarge an interior door opening to t the #6022
Split Octagonal Shingles
Shingle Dye
Dye1: Reddish Brown
Dye3: Dark Grey
A Doghouse for
your Dollhouse
Real Good Toys’ Best1 Plus
Dollhouse Wiring Set
Turntables, Platform
Turntables, and Turn-
tables with wiring feed
are available
P2000
HH444
visit www.realgoodtoys.help
for demos, slideshows, and
suggestions for your build.
6803 Banister & Landing Set

Assembly Notes /Getting Started (A) page 5
Instructions for Kit #JM-4600
Assembly Notes:
A large, clutter-free, well-lighted work area is helpful
during assembly, but a at work surface is essential.
Read the instructions carefully; look at each of the
illustrations. !With the parts in your hands!, think
the assembly through before you proceed.
Test t each time you are ready to glue a piece in
place...then you’ll know you have it right.
If more tape or a helper is needed, it’s good to know
that before the parts have glue on them.
Don’t be stingy with glue or tape; use generous amounts.
Always wipe off excess glue immediately.
Keep one damp rag and one dry rag handy all the time.
Have weights available for holding things tight as
glue joints dry (stacks of books, gallons of pure Ver-
mont Maple Syrup - anything heavy)
Glue the body of your dollhouse together with
white, water clean-up glue that dries clear. Do not
use instant-bond (super glue), fast-tack, rubber ce-
ment, silicone, or hot melt glues. They are all used
in some wood applications, but they all have some
characteristic that makes them un-desirable for the
body of your dollhouse. Carpenter Glue works well,
but glue-smear dries yellow or tan; many of the things
you glue onto the house are pre-painted – extra glue
will show. I use Aleene’s Tacky Glue® for all house
body assembly.
Make sure everything is straight and at as glue
dries... That’s the shape that will be permanent.
Glue the shingles on with glue that doesn’t have
any water in it! If the glue says ”water clean-up”, it
will curl the wooden shingles. Look carefully at the
glue you intend to use to be sure it is solvent-based,
or use hot-melt glue (and watch out for the burns). I
use Liquid Nails #LN-601® glue which comes in a
caulking-gun tube at the hardware or building supply
store (note – Liquid Nails® also makes #990 which is
“water clean-up” and will curl the shingles). Check
ingredients and warnings! Solvent-based glues say
“Caution, Flammable”.
If you Wallpaper, use Roman’s
®
“Border” paste,
Brush paste on the wallpaper, then the wall, and then
smooth the wallpaper into position.
When glue is drying, skip ahead to up-coming assem-
bly steps and prepare the parts that will be used
A: Getting Started: Do these things before the house assembly
Stain the Shingles: Our pro uses Real Good Toys’ Shingle
Dye (available from Real Good Toys or your local miniature
dealer) when dying the shingles for this house. Batch dye or
stain the shingles several days ahead of time so they will be
dry when the time comes to use them (instructions are with
the shingle dye or www.dhbuilder.com).
S quare the corners of the stair holes with a utility knife -
each cutout has a rounded corner left over from the tool that
made it. Make two cuts in each corner from the top (one from
each direction), then cut from each direction on the bottom to
cut away the rounding in the corner so the stairs or glueblock
will t.
OnLine Support: There are many photos of this
Dollhousee under construction as well as tips, tech-
niques, and extra help with your dollhouse project
at: www.realgoodtoys.help
Flooring: Applied hardwood ooring, carpeting, tile, or paint
is applied after assembly is complete. Faux-wood ooring is
done before assembly (Google “Faux Wood Floor on MDF
gpr01010” for a YouTube video).
www.dollhouseworkshop.net/oornish

Paint (B) page 6
Instructions for Special Edition Kit #JM-33
J
J
Paint the parts the rst coat. The rst coat mostly soaks
into the wood, lling and reinforcing the grain so the sanding
step clips off the bers and leaves the surface smooth. Resist
sanding before painting - it will leave the surface fuzzy and
make a smooth nish harder to achieve. The quality of your
nal nish is dependent on the quality of the sanding after the
rst coat. Do not go back to re-paint just because the paint has
soaked in. Just a bit of paint left on the surface tells you you
have put on enough to saturate the grain, which is the right
amount. More paint than that will only make sanding harder.
Glue doesn’t stick to paint. Avoid painting edges, grooves,
and areas that will be glued.
Do not stack painted parts - even when they
feel dry they will stick and damage each other.
Keep them spread out or separate them with
waxed paper.
A word about primer: Primer is designed to help paint stick
to an impervious surface or to join layers of dissimilar paints.
In this application, the rst coat of paint soaks right into the
wood and lls the grain - you could do that with primer, but its
job of being an interface between different materials doesn’t
apply here. In this application, primer just adds steps and ex-
pense. I don’t use it here and don’t suggest it.
Paint the walls on both faces. Paint the Mid Floor on the
bottom face.
Paint the Trim on one face and both edges.
Paint the second coat. The Second coat for the outside of the
Walls may be done after assembly of the housebody (that’s
what I do). The second coat goes on smooth and creamy with
enough paint on the brush so it is quiet while you are brushing
the paint out, but not enough to leave puddles or drips.
Sand everything. Sand until the paint is smooth and “soft”
feeling, transparent, and some of the wood is showing through.
Sand the Clapboard one-clapboard-surface-at-a-time. Fold
the sandpaper and sand back and forth until the surface of that
board is smooth and transparent; then move on to the next
board. Fold the sandpaper as needed to keep it fresh.
J
J
Cleaning an edge with the
back of a utility knife blade
Cleaning a groove with a Cabinet Scraper
Clean the edges and grooves before assembly. A little paint always
builds-out the corner of an edge or groove and will make assembly
harder and the glue joint less strong. Test the Floor, Liner, and Back
in their grooves to see that they t well.
Painting: www.RealGoodToys.help has painting and sanding videos

B: Paint all the walls now including the Attic Front and one Gable Triangle.
Anything that will be painted on the inside of the
house can be rst-coated and sanded now, while the
panels are at on the table. Sanding before assem-
bly leaves some of the wood showing for the glue to
grab (glue doesn’t stick to paint), and allows a good
Do not paint the edges.
The First Coat goes on quick and soaks into the wood which reinforces
the wood’s grain so sanding clips off the surface bers instead of push-
ing them around. Resist the temptation to sand and primp rst... it will
just make the wood fuzzy and make it more difcult to get a smooth
nal nish. Do not “double paint” (going back to overpaint where the
paint has soaked in), it will make sanding more difcult.
11/411/4
11/4
5/8
Gable Roof
Roofs
Paint the overhangs on the bottom
of the Roofs
Paint the underside of the Eaves
The dotted lines show a bevel
that is facing away from you
Trace a Bay Floor onto the bottom of the
Gable Floor. Trace again with a 3/16” spacer
(a Pilaster up on edge).
Paint to the Pilaster tracing on the outside,
and to the Bay Floor tracing on the inside if
you are painting the ceiling.
Gable Floor
Bay Floor tracing
Paint to here
Ceiling
Paint the edges of the Tower Ceiling
to the groove on top and 3/16” from
the ceiling underneath
thorough sanding job for a smooth nal nish. If you don’t
know whether you will paint, or you don’t know the color,
use white or primer for the rst coat.
Second-coat the interior paint after assembly.
Leave 1” un-painted
Ceiling: rst coat and sand
Leave 1/4” un-painted
Gable Floor
Bay Floor
Pilaster
Painting (B) page 7
Instructions for Kit #JM-4600
3/16 un-painted

Re-paint. The second coat goes on smoooth and creamy, with pleanty
of paint (but no puddles). Sometimes a third coat is necessary.
Do not second-coat Window Frames or Railing parts until they are
glued together later on. Most interior painting should be second-coated
after assembly.
C. Build the Front Steps after the rst-coat and sanding.
1. Glue together the Front Step, Bottom and the Front Step, Top, lined up in back.
Glue on the Buttresses, also lined up in back. This is now the “Front Step Base”.
2. Second-coat the Front Step Base and Treads. If you intend to texture-paint the Front Step
Base, wait until the Treads are attached, and texture-paint close-to but not touching the Treads.
Texture Paint: For the foundations and anywhere else a textured surface is desired, base coat
the surface with plain paint and second-coat with a mixture of paint and “Real Good Toys’
Stucco Grit (www.realgoodtoys.com or your miniature store).
Mix the Stucco Grit with paint and apply in slaps or short swirls
Sand everything until the paint is smooth and transparent with
the wood showing thru. Sand the clapboard one course at a time,
with a folded piece of sandpaper. After a few courses, refold the
sandpaper to keep the cutting action fresh.
Front Step, Top
Front Step, Bottom
Tread
Buttress
(One Butterss is
removed to show
parts orientation)
Front Step, Top
Front Step, Bottom
Pazinting and Front Steps (B) page 8
Instructions for Kit #JM-4600
Tread
Buttress

Floors and Walls (1) page 9
Instructions for kit #JM-4600
Prepare the Floors:
□1. The Base Floor will be used to exactly locate the
Bay Floors on the Middle Floor and Top Floor. Protect
the Base Floor with waxed paper from the glue (Illustra-
tion #1).
□2. Lay the Middle Floor on the Base Floor with the
stairhole closer to the right edge (the Middle Floor’s
stairhole is centered front-to-back). (Illustration #2).
Prepare aps of tape for holding the Bay Floors tight; the
tape is stuck to the bottom of the Middle Floor. Line up
the Middle Floor with the edges of the Base Floor.
□3. Glue and tape the Bay Floors to the Middle Floor,
carefully lined up on the angled edges. Stretch the tape
under the Bay Floors, fold it over the top, and stretch it
again to hold tight across the bottom and the top.
(Illustration #3)
Check several times around the outside of the oors that
the Middle Floor/Bay Floors line up with the Base Floor.
□4. Glue the Stairhole Glueblock inside the Stairhole
as shown, with the 3/8” thickness up-and-down (the same
thickness as the oor)
Let the glue set for several minutes before moving the
Middle Floor so the Bay Floors won’t slip. When you
do move the oor, clean up the glue with a damp rag and
then a dry rag but be gentle! Replace the Waxed paper
with a fresh piece for the Top Floor/Bay Floor assembly
□5. Set the Top Floor on the Base Floor with the
stairhole closer to the front and right edge. (Illustration
#4)
Glue and tape a Bay Floor to the left edge only of the Top
Floor, lined up carefully with the edges of the Base Floor.
Base Floor will guide Bay Floor
placement on the upper oors
Protect it from glue with a
piece of waxed paper
Illus. #1
Stairhole
Glueblock
Tape
Bay Floors
Middle Floor
Edge of the Base Floor
Illus. #2
Stairhole: front-right
Bay Floor (left only)
Lined up with the
edges of the Base Floor
Top Floor
Illus. #4
Bay Floors lined up
with the edges of
the Base Floor
Stairhole Glueblock
Illus. #3
Middle Floor
Base covered with Waxed Paper
Mid Floor
Let the glue dry

□7. Glue and tape the Foundation Back (27”) and
Sides (151/2”) together and to the Base Floor, Tight in the
Grooves and lined up at the edges. (Illustration #6)
□8. Glue and tape Foundation Spacers (87/16”) to the
Foundation and Base Floor as shown. (Illustration #7)
Illus. #7
Foundation Spacers
87/16”87/16”
Illus. #6
Foundations
27”
151/2”
151/2”
The Base Floor up-side-down
The Clapboard faces in and
down on all three walls!
Illustrations #5
The “Spacers” are temporary
Inset Wall
Inset Wall
Porch Spacer
Porch Spacer
Front Wall
Inset Wall
Spacer
Spacer
Spacer
Front Wall
Clapboard
The Clapboard faces
into the porch
□6. Tape together (no glue) two Inset Walls and
two Porch Spacers (the spacers are between the Inset
Walls). Spread glue on the edge of the Inset Walls only.
Glue and tape the Front Wall to the Inset Walls, lined up top-
and-bottom”. When the glue is dry, remove the Spacers and
use them to assemble the second Front Set. (Illustration 5)
Assemble the Base (the Base Floor and Foundation)
Front Sets and Foundation (1) page 10
Instructions for Kit #JM-4600
Assemble the Front Sets (Front Wall and Inset Walls)

Foundation (1) page 11Instructions for kit #JM-4600
□10. Tape together the Corner Foundations and the Front
Foundation with the bevels face down.
Turn the Front/Corner Foundations over and spread glue on
all the beveled ends. Glue the Front and Corner Foundations
together and to the Foundation/Base Floor. (Illustration #10)
□11. Turn the Base Floor assembly over; add lots of
tape to hold the glue joint really tight. Check and adjust the
foundation perimeter to match the oor perimeter.Weight the
Base Floor assembly and make sure it is at on a at surface
as the glue dries.
Illus. #8
Middle Foundations
18”
Front Foundation Corner Foundation
Bevels
Illus. #10
Front Foundation
Corner Foundation
Visit www.dhbuilder.com for assembly photos
□9. Glue Middle Foundations (18”) to the Foun-
dation and Base Floor as shown. (Illustration #8)
Let the glue dry, then take off the tape.

Floors and Walls (1) page 12
Instructions for kit #JM-4600
Mid Floor
Trace the edges of the Bay
Floors onto the Base
Base
Illus. #11
Back edge of the Sidewall:
Clapboard prole
Gable Triangle
Base Groove
Illus. #13
Clapboard
Mark and paint the Porch Floors/ceilings
Set the Front Set on the Base spaced from the back edge
with Dividers. Center the Front set side-to-side with the
tracing (the inside surface of each Inset Wall is slightly
inside the tracing). (Illustration #12)
Trace the inside and outside of the Front Set on the Base.
Use these lines if you are painting the Porch Floor or Inside
Floor - paint to just cover the line, but leave 3/16” or so
unpainted.
If you are going to paint the Porch Floor, do so now.
If you are going to paint the Inside Floor, do the rst coat
and sand it now.
□12. Set the Middle Floor on the Base, lined up on the
edges. Trace the edges of the Bay Floors onto the Base.
Set a Pilaster on edge against the Bay Floor
edges of the Mid Floor, and trace along the outside of
it. This gives a second line 3/16” (the thickness of
the Pilaster) from the rst. These line pairs will
help position the Front set, and show the edges
for painting the Porch Floor and the Inside
Floor. Do not paint between these lines.
Midoor
Tracing
Front set
Dividers lined
up in back
Centered
Illus. #12
Without Glue, tape a Side Wall to the Base, lined up in back.
Tape a Gable Triangle at the back edge to hold the Side straight.
Repeat for the other Sidewall.
Put a Front Spacer between the Sidewall and the Front Set on
each side.
Side Wall
Front Spacer
Base
Bay Floor
Pilaster

□14. Inspect the Front Set to be sure nothing has moved
while the glue was drying.
Remove the Side Walls. Tape (don’t glue!) Dividers to the back
edge of Front Set, one on the left and one on the right. Tape the
Dividers to the back edge of the house to hold them straight.
(Illustration #14)
□13. Glue the Front Set to the Base spaced from the back edge with
the Dividers and centered side-to-side with the Front Spacers.
Stretch tape a little above the oor all the way from one Side Wall to the
other to tighten the Front Spacers. (Photo at right)
Press down on the Front set, remove the Dividers, clean up the glue
squeezings, then put the Dividers back.
Weight the Front set, check the position against the Dividers and Spacers
and let the glue dry.
Use the other Front Set to trace-and-paint the bottom of the Mid Floor
(Porch Ceiling) and the top of the Mid Floor (Balcony Floor). Trace-and-
paint the bottom of the Top Floor for the Balcony Ceiling.
□15. Spread glue in the base and mid grooves of the Side Walls
(the base is identied by the clapboard prole). Put a Side Wall on the
Base (in the Side’s base groove: Illus. #13). Tape the back edge of the
Side to the Base using the Gable Triangle as a support square. Tape the
lower front of the Side to the Inset with the prepared ap of tape. Tape
the upper ap of tape from the Inset to the Side with a Front Spacer
spacing and supporting the Side. (Illustration #15)
Side Wall
Front Spacer
Illus. #15
Don’t glue the Dividers here!
Complete steps 15 - 17 without letting the glue dry
Let the glue dry
Illus. #14
TEMPORARY use
of the Dividers
Lined up
and taped
16” Flaps of tape
Floors and Walls (1) page 13

□16. Repeat step 15 to attach the other Side Wall.
(Illustration #16)
□17. Spread glue on the top edge of the Front Set.
Tip the Mid Floor into one Side’s groove, then let the other
end down so it pops into the other. Stretch a band of tape
all the way around the house just above the Mid Floor.
Adjust the t of the Floor at the back edges of the Sides.
Instructions for kit #JM-4600 Floors and Walls (1) page 14
Front-to-back tape
Lined up
Illustration #17A
Inspect here
Inspect here
Inspect here
Front-to-back tape
Mid Floor
Illus. 17B
Gable Triangle
Dividers are temporary in this location
Gable Triangle
(temporary)
Dividers
(temporary)
Front Spacer
(temporary) Front Set
Side
Illus. #16
Don’t glue the Dividers here!
Inspect the top of the Inset Walls. If they line up with the front edge of the
Mid Floor, then all the front-to-back tape on the Dividers and Sides has
worked. If not, now is the time to make the t right. (Illustration #17B)
Let the glue dry
Put a front-to-back piece of tape at the joint between the
Floor and the Side to hold the Floor and Side exactly lined up
at the back edge. (Illustration #17A) Check the back edges
of the Dividers and press them front or back to make them
exactly line up with the back edge of the Floor. Put a front-
to-back piece of tape at the top of the Dividers to hold them
lined up in back.
Let the glue dry
Tape all the way around the house
Front Spacer
Mid Floor

□18. Glue the other Front Set to the Mid Floor,
lined up in front and centered side-to-side. Press
down, clean up the glue squeezings, then add weight
while the glue dries. Conrm the front-to-back t
with the Dividers and the side-to-side t with the
Front Spacers.
Dividers
Front Spacer
Visit www.dhbuilder.com for more assembly photos
Inspect the oor at the back of the Dividers
and Side Walls to be sure nothing has moved
□19. Tape the Dividers to the back of the Front set
and to the back edge of the Mid Floor to hold the Front
Set straight. Tape the Front Spacers between the top of the
Inset Walls and the Side Walls, just-below the grooves for
the Top Floor.
Apply glue to the top of the Front Set and to the ends of
the Top Floor (NOT on the Dividers or Front Spacers).
Put the Top Floor in place, lined up with the Sides in back,
with the Dividers in back, and with the Front Set in front.
Use the “front-to-back tape” technique to hold the inspec-
tion points (Illustration #17B) while the glue dries.
Tape the Top Floor tightly to the Sides and put weight
over the Front Set. Let the glue dry (Illustration #19B)
Illus. #19B
Top Floor
Lined up
Illus. #19A Dividers
TEMPORARY
Front SpacerFront Spacer
Front Set
Let the Glue dry
Let the glue dry
Instructions for kit #JM-4600 Floors and Walls (1) page 15

Instructions for kit #JM-4600 Walls and Floors (1) page 16
□20. Glue and tape the Gable Floor (81/2x 33/8) to
the Top Floor lined up on the right with the outside of
the Right Side Wall. Extend a Divider under the Gable
Floor for support as the glue dries.
Divider for support
Any at panel
makes it easier to
line up the outside
Illus. #20
Gable Floor
Don’t glue the Divider here!
Inspect the oor at the back of the Dividers
and Side Walls to be sure nothing has moved
Let the glue dry
□21. Identify “up-and-down” for the Attic Front
The Attic Front is an odd-shaped part, and builders of-
ten think the square edge (in the upper right in the photo)
should go down... but if you start with the Gable Triangle in
place (Illustration 23), it’s easier to make the Attic Front t
Gable Triangle
(temporary)
Attic Divider holds
the Attic Front
straight
Illus. #23
Attic Front
Lined up side-to-side
Lined up in front
□22. Without glue, tape together the Attic Front and the
Gable Triangle (Illustration #23).
Glue the Attic Front to the Top Floor with the Gable Tri-
angle lined up with the edges of the Gable Floor side-to-side
and with the Attic Front lined up with the front edge of the
Top Floor. Don’t glue the Gable Triangle; it’s only here to
locate the Attic Front side-to-side, and it will be removed.
This photo shows parts that
have not been installed yet.
Bay Vertical, Side
Attic Front
Let the glue dry 

□23. Lay out a set of Bay Walls for the Base;
one 43/4Front with a groove at the bottom, one 33/4Side
with a groove at the bottom, and one 33/4Side with no
groove (it’s the same as the “Top Bay Walls”).
Line them up at the top (check the clapboard on the one
with no groove) and tape across the face leaving a 4” ap
on both ends.
Turn the Bay Walls over, spread glue on all the beveled
ends, in the grooves, and on the bottom edge of the un-
grooved wall.
Install and tightly tape the Bay Wall set to the house.
(Illustration #21B)
Repeat for the Bay Wall set on the other side of the Base.
Base Bay Wall set for the right side
Base Bay Wall set for the left side
Tape
Illus. #21A
Illus. #21B
Right Bay Wall set
Keep it tight on
the corner
A nal check of the Bay Walls’ position:
Hold the Porch Cornice between the Bay
Walls. When it lines up at the back edge,
the walls are perfect
Porch Cornice
Lined up in back
Illus. #21C
The edge of the Bay
Wall is wider than the
Inset Wall. Line it up
on the inside
Bay Vertical Lined up on the inside
Side Wall or Inset Wall
Lines up on the inside
with the Base Bay Wall
Bay Wall
Illustration #24
Keep the outside point
the same all the way
up the house
□24. Glue a Bay Vertical, Side to the front edge of each Side
Wall and the top of the Base Bay Wall, lined up on the inside.
Repeat for the Inset Walls... 4 Bay Vertical Sides.
Note: the point of the Bay Verticals and Bay Walls
that sticks out will rest against Stripwood that will
be installed in Step 60

Instructions for kit #JM-4600 Walls and Floors (1) page 17
Clapboard

Instructions for kit #JM-4600 Walls and Floors (1) page 18
Front (43/4)
Side (33/4)
Side (33/4)
Illus. #25
Mid Bay Walls (33/8tall, grooved)
Line them up on the inside -
Keep the outside point the
same all the way up the
house
Illus. #26
Bay Walls
Bay Vertical, Sides
Temporary use of the Bay Vertical,
Corners - Don’t glue them here
□27. Attach 4 more Bay Vertical Sides to the Inset and Side
Walls abover the Mid Bay Walls (Illustration #24)
□28. Build another set of Mid Bay Walls as you did in steps
25 and 26. Glue and tape the Mid Bay Wall set to the Top Floor on
the left. Keep the points of the Walls the same, as in Illustration
#26. Tape to the inside of the Attic Front (Illustration #28)
The point is the same
as the lower Bay Walls
Attic Front
Keep this corner tight
Illustration #28
left bay
□25. Lay out a set of Mid Bay Walls with all the clap-
board facing down on each Wall (Illustration #25). Tape the
Walls together and leave a 4” ap of tape on each end.
□26. Turn the Bay Wall Set over. Spread glue in the
grooves and on all the ends. Tape the Bay Wall set to the
house. Line up and tape the Bay Wall set to the Bay Verti-
cals on the inside.
Inspect the Bay Verticals and the ends of the Bay Walls (Illustration #24).
When they are straight up-and-down, the outside point of the Bay Wall will
be the same for the Base set, for the Mid set, and all along the tip of the Bay
Vertical. When this is the way the Bay Walls t all the way up the house on
both sides of the Bays, then they will be straight on the house (a good thing!)
Without glue, put the Bay Vertical Corners in place to hold the vertical spac-
ing. (review Illus. #21C)
Lined up on the inside
Clapboard

Instructions for kit #JM-4600 Walls and Floors (1) page 19
□29. Tape together a set of Top Bay Walls (11/2” tall, no
groove) Glue and tape the Top Bay Walls to the walls and to the
underside of the Gable Floor.
Adjust the points to match the lower walls so the Top Bay Walls
will be straight above them (review Illus. #21C) and the corners of
the Top Bay Front line up with the corners of the Mid Bay Front.
Use one of the largest Window Panes as a square against a ‘Bay
Vertical, Corner’ to line up the corners of the Bay Walls.
□30. Draw Shingle Guidelines on the Left Roof, Right Roof,
and the Gable Roofs. The rst Guideline is one shingle-length (11/4”)
from the bottom edge (the top edge is beveled).
The rest of the Guidelines are 1” apart.
Draw all the Guidelines on the
Tower Roofs 1” apart
Illus. #29
right bay
Corners line up
Top Bay Walls
Points are
the same
Points are
the same
Guideline
Measure
One
Shingle
Length
1”
1”
1”
1”
1”
1”
1”
1”
Bevels are on the inside of the Roofs (face down)
1”
11/4”
1”
Left Roof
Right Roof
Gable Roofs
Tower Roofs
Temporary use of the Bay Vertical,
Corners - Don’t glue them here
Let the glue dry
This drawing may print differ-
eently from the layout - conrm
the measurements before draw-
ing your shingle guidelines

Instructions for kit #JM-4600 Roofs (2) page 20
□32. Tape together the Left Roof and the Right Roof
at the peak (the ends with the bevels) Fold the Roofs at the
peak and put them on the house, lined up with the face of
the Attic Front. The Roofs are supported at the back edge
by the Roof Support Stand. Mark and paint the underside
of the Roofs where they overhang the Sides.
□31. Make a temporary Roof Support: Hold a 1”
Stripwood behind the Attic Front, straight up-and-down, and
centered behind the peak. Use the edges of the Attic Front as
a saw guide to cut the Stripwood to exactly match the Attic
Front at the peak. (Illustration #31A)
Make a temporary Roof Support Stand by taping two
Gable Triangles together and taping the Roof Support to
them. Put the Stand in the center at the back edge of the
Top Floor
Illustration #31A
The Attic Front from
inside the Attic
“Razor” saw
1” Stripwood
Temporary Roof Support Stand
Gable Triangle
Illustration #33A
Left Roof
Touching the Bay Wall
Lined up with
the Attic Front
Illustration #32
Right Roof
Illus. #33B
Lined up with
the Attic Front
Lined up with the back
edge of the Gable Floor
□33. Turn the Roofs over and spread glue on the
bevels. Spread glue on the top edges of the Attic Front.
Tape the Roofs to the Attic Front and add additional tape
as necessary to keep the Left Roof tight to the back of the
Bay Walls (Illustration #33A) and lined up with the back
edge of the Gable Floor (Illustration #33B).
The back edge of the Roof overhangs
the back edge of the house