Real Good Toys Victoria's Farmhouse User manual

Instructions for
Real Good Toys’ the Victoria’s Farmhouse Special Edition Kit #JM-1065 ©06/16
Congratulations on your choice of a Real Good Toys product. Your kit has been precision made with meticu-
lous care by our craftspeople using carefully selected materials. This Dollhouse will last for years, even genera-
tions, if heirloom care and attention is given during assembly. Take your time and read the instructions com-
pletely. If you have questions, ask the experts at your local Dollhouse store or at [email protected]
Measure and identify the parts: The kit is packed in
groupings that protect the parts, and that is how the Parts
List is organized. As you measure and identify the parts,
label them with sticky notes using the names from the parts
list, and check them off the parts list so you know you have
everything. Taking the time now to identify and organize
the parts also makes them familiar so you will understand
what the instructions intend as you read ahead.
• Plan ahead so you know where you are going
• Read ahead so you know how to get there
• Paint ahead so the parts will be ready when you need them
Prepare your space: This dollhouse will spread out
over a large area while it is being built. You will need
a large at tabletop for the house, several boxes to keep
parts organized until they are needed, and several trays
lined with waxed paper for holding small parts like
windows and railings.
A snap-lid box will keep your tools and supplies handy
between building sessions.
Preview the Overview (page 3) to plan and organize
your build; this helps make it fun and fullling.
Real Good Toys 122 Gallison Hill Rd Montpelier VT 05602 802 479-2217 www.realgoodtoys.com
Not suitable for children under 13 years of age
California 93120 compliant for formaldehyde phase 2
Before you begin - You have already opened the box and see all the parts organized in boxes and bundles.
For the moment, keep them that way. There are important things to do before you open your glue bottle.
www.realgoodtoys.help
Supplies:
Paint: Interior semi-gloss latex paint... Everything gets at least one coat before assembly - get the paint now.
Paintbrushes 1” or 2” foam brushes for each color, 3” foam roller for interior painting
Sandpaper: 320 grit, 3-5 sheets
Glue: Aleene’s Tacky Glue for the dollhouse, Solvent-Based panel cement for shingles
Masking tape: ¾” or 1”
Wiring: it’s easiest to install some parts during assembly… order wiring supplies now.
Screwdriver: #1 Phillips
Wallpaper paste: Roman’s “Border” Paste

Assembly Notes /Getting Started (A) page 2
Instructions for Special Edition Kit #JM-1065 Victoria’s Farmhouse
Windows: t full-size single and double cutouts available working or non-working
#5042 #5015 #5037 #5041
Exterior:
Exterior Paint Color:
see www.realgoodtoys.help for suggestions
Accessories:
Gingerbread
Flower Boxes
Foundation Stucco Grit
Octagonal Shingles
Fancy Windows and Doors
Turnposts and Spindles
Interior:
Wiring
Wallpaper
Interior paint color:
Ceilings
Painted walls
Interior trim
Flooring:
Faux-wood nish (do it now)
Applied wood, tile, or carpet
Painted oors
Banister & Landing Rails
Window and Door trim
Baseboard and Crown
Options for building the Victoria’s Farmhouse Dollhouse (also visit www.realgoodtoys.help)
Doors:
#6022
#6002 #6018 #1015
6803 Banister
& Landing Set
Wallpaper
Trim and Stripwood
Flute24
SW16
RGT8
Exterior Interior
Note: I often enlarge an interior door opening to t the #6022
#4017 Pine Stair
and Landing Set
Split Octagonal Shingles
Shingle Dye
Dye1: Reddish Brown
Dye3: Dark Grey
A Doghouse for
your Dollhouse
Real Good Toys’ Best1
Dollhouse Wiring Set
P2000
HH444

Assembly Notes /Getting Started (A) page 3
Instructions for Special Edition Kit #JM-1065 Victoria’s Farmhouse
Assembly Tips:
A large, clutter-free, well-lighted work area is helpful
during assembly, but a at work surface is essential.
Read the instructions carefully; look at each of the illus-
trations. !With the parts in your hands!, think the assembly
through before you proceed.
Test t each time you are ready to glue a piece in place...
then you’ll know you have it right.
If more tape or a helper is needed, it’s good to know that
before the parts have glue on them.
Don’t be stingy with glue or tape; use generous amounts.
Always wipe off excess glue immediately.
Keep one damp rag and one dry rag handy all the time.
Have weights available for holding things tight as glue
joints dry (stacks of books, gallons of pure Vermont Maple
Syrup - anything heavy)
Glue the body of your dollhouse together with white,
water clean-up glue that dries clear. Do not use instant-
bond (super glue), fast-tack, rubber cement, silicone, or hot
melt glues. They are all used in some wood applications,
but they all have some characteristic that makes them un-
desirable for the body of your dollhouse. Carpenter Glue
works well, but glue-smear dries yellow or tan; many of
the things you glue onto the house are pre-painted – extra
glue will show. I use Aleene’s Tacky Glue® for all house
body assembly.
Make sure everything is straight and at as glue dries...
That’s the shape that will be permanent.
Q: Can I wallpaper before I assemble the doll house?
A: Yes you can (it’s your house!) Many experienced builders
are advocates of papering before construction - I am not.
My biggest objection to papering rst is that you are always
too skimpy with glue so none will squeeze out and get on
the paper. I try to use the amount of glue that lls the joint,
so some will squeeze out in every joint and be wiped up.
But wiping glue off of wallpaper leaves a streak, so the
temptation is to go skimpy, and the joints aren’t as strong.
Second, I can always tell a house that was pre-papered
because the corners show a void instead of being continuous
(see the slideshows about how to crowd the papers together
in the corner... you can’t do that with pre-papered walls).
Third, I have had to replace paper too often that has gotten
damaged by glue or tape during construction... that wastes
time and paper ($) and can make it so you are left decid-
ing whether to replace a damaged paper or letting it slide
because you don’t have any more of that pattern and you’ll
have to order it and that takes too much time (running out
but then needing another piece is a distressing moment).
Finally, I don’t nd pre-papering to be faster. By the time I
have done all of the extra planning that getting the papers in
the right place requires, I have used up any potential advan-
tage. I have great big blacksmith’s hands, and papering in a
nished house is easy for me.
All that having been said, I do pre-cut the papers used in the
attic before attaching the Roofs and I paper in front of the
Blind Dividers (21/2”) before I glue them in place.
Glue the shingles on with glue that doesn’t have any
water in it! If the glue says ”water clean-up”, it will curl the
wooden shingles. Look carefully at the glue you intend to
use to be sure it is solvent-based, or use hot-melt glue (and
watch out for the burns). Check ingredients and warnings!
Solvent-based glues say “Caution, Flammable”.
If you Wallpaper, use Yes® craft paste (for bookbinding or
collage) or pre-mixed Roman’s “Border” paste.
Brush paste on the wallpaper, then the wall, and nally
smooth the wallpaper into position.
Taking things apart: Heat softens glue. If you have to take
things apart, warm the part in the oven at 170ofor up to a half
hour to let the heat get into the joint where the glue is. Don’t
let it get hotter than you can touch or the paint may scorch.
Don’t heat window panes.
When glue is drying, skip ahead to up-coming assembly
steps and prepare the parts that will be used
Before you begin, read the “Finish the Inside” section on the
last page.
Overview of the Build:
Identify and label all of the parts
Pre-Assemble: Front Steps, Chimney, Bay Wall Sets, Foun-
dation, and the Top Floor/Gable Floor
Paint everything one coat
Option: Faux-wood oor nish on the oors
Sand everything until the paint is smooth, transparent, and
some of the wood is showing through
Second-coat the Walls, and the porch sections of the Floors
Option: Add an Electrication Slot to the Base Floor
Build the housebody up to the Attic Endwalls and Gable
Triangle
Optional: Start the wiring
Mark, paint, and attach the Roofs (but not the Rear Roof)
Optional: Attic wiring
Install the Dividers (but not the Blind Dividers)
Optional: Finish the wiring
Assemble and nish painting everything else
Finish the Attic - attach the Rear Roof
Finish the outside
Finish the inside
Details of each step will be expanded along the way, but lots of
folks like to see how it all ts together before they start.
Slideshows, demos, useful links, details, and photos are all at:
www.realgoodtoys.help

Parts List page 4
Instructions for Special Edition Kit #JM-1065 Victoria’s Farmhouse
Identify the parts: Open one bundle at-a-time. Measure each part and nd it on the parts list.
Label the parts and group them by the ‘instruction section #’ at the end of each part’s name(#).
These groups are how the parts will be used.
Loose Parts:
(2) E8130 Front/Back Foundation1: (1/2) 33 x 13/4
(4) E8131 Middle Foundation1: (1/2) 183/4x 13/4
(2) E9801 Bottom Stair Block10: (6Step) 21/4
(2) E9802 Top Stair Block10: (6Step) 21/4
(1) E8104 Gable Left Roof2: (1/4) 141/8 x 141/8, Bev.
(1) E8103 Gable Right Roof2: (1/4) 141/8 x 141/8, Bev.
(2) E8128 Attic Endwall2:(3/8)105/8 Tall x 151/8 Base, Groove
(1) E8127 Gable Triangle2:(3/8)105/8Tall x 151/8Base, Groove
(1) E8129 Attic Partition10: (3/8) 101/4x 91/4 Base
(2) E8110 Gable Right SideB: (Clapboard) 9 x 53/4
(1) E8118 Top Floor1: (3/8) 28 x 141/2, Stair hole
(4) E8125 Divider10: (3/8) 9 x 21/2
(2) E8133 Eave2: (1/4) 12 x 2
(1) E8101 Front Roof2: (1/4) 301/2x 141/8, Cutout
(1) E8102 Rear Roof2: (1/4) 301/2x 2, Bev.
(3) E8105 False Eave6: (1/4) 11/2x 153/4, Bev.
(1) E8132 Gable Foundation3: (1/4) 14 x 13/4
(1) E8106 Access Bay Roof4: (1/4) 8 x 13/4. Bev
(1) E8119 Middle (“Mid”) Floor1: (3/8) 331/4x 20, Stair hole
(1) E8120 Base Floor1: (1/4) 331/4x 20
Panels Bundle:
(1) E8122 Gable Top Floor1: (3/8) 141/2x 53/4
(1) E8111 Access Bay FrontB: (Clapboard) 171/8x 67/8, Cutouts
(1) E8114 Lower Right FrontB: (Clapboard) 9 x 131/8, Door&Window Cutout
(1) E8115 Upper Right FrontB: (Clapboard) 9 x 131/8, Window Cutout
(1) E8123 Access Bay Middle Floor1: (3/8) 1 x 61/4
(1) E8141 Access Bay Spacer1: (3/8) 11/2x 61/4
(1) E8107 Left SideB: (Clapboard) 1819/32 x 105/8, Grooved
(2) E8142 Access Bay SidesB: (Clapboard) 171/8x 25/32
(1) E8109 Gable Left SideB: (Clapboard) 1819/32 x 3, Grooved
(2) E8126B Divider10: (3/8 mdf) 9 x 141/8, Door
(6) E8138 Bay VerticalA: (3/8) 97/32 x 3/4, Bev.
(1) E8112 Lower Right SideB: (Clapboard) 9 x 141/2
(1) E8113 Upper Right SideB: (Clapboard) 9 x 141/2, Cutout
(1) E8108 Gable FrontB: (Clapboard) 1819/32 x 141/2, Grooved, Cutouts
Gable Left Roof
Gable Triangle
Attic Endwall
Attic Partition
Access Bay Middle Floor
Access Bay Front:
Gable Top Floor
Lower Right Front
Upper Right Front
Access Bay Spacer
Left Side
Gable Left Side
Divider
Lower Right Side
Upper Right Side
(clapboard)
Gable Front
Middle Floor
Access Bay Roof
Top Floor
Gable Right Side
Access Bay Side
Gable Foundation
Access Bay Base Floor
Divider (Blinds)
Bevel
141/4
Left Edge
Electrication slot
Electrication slot
The Electrication Slots in the Middle and Top
Floors make it easier to run tape style wiring from
oor to oor. If you intend to wire this dollhouse,
carve the bottom of this slot as part of step #10
so you will be able to slip tape into it
from the bottom (see step 10)
Top Stair Block
Bottom Stair Block

Box “A”
(1) E8139 Front StepA: (5/8 mdf) 5 x 2
(1) E8140 Front StepA: (5/8 mdf) 5 x 1
AccessBay Hardware Bag4:
(2) E8168 1” Hinge
(8) E8169 3/8 #2 Screws
(1) E8124 Access Bay Base Floor1: (1/4 mdf) 1 x 61/4
(1) E8136 Access Bay Ceiling4: (3/8 mdf) 7 x 11/4, Bev.
(2) E8134 Bay Side Foundation3: (3/8 mdf) 31/4x 13/4, Bev.
(1) E8135 Bay Front Foundation3: (3/8 mdf) 45/8x 13/4, Bev.
(4) E8116 Bay SideA: (Clapboard) 23/32 x 13/4
(2) E8117 Bay FrontA: (Clapboard) 23/32 x 31/2
(1) E8121 Bay Base Floor3: (1/4 mdf) 221/32 Wide x 71/4, Mitered
(1) E8137 Bay Top3: (3/4 mdf) 315/16 Wide x 1013/16 , Molded
(1) E8143 Chimney BlockA: (11/2 mdf) 53/8x 21/2
(1) E8144 Chimney CapA: (1/4 mdf) 21/2x 11/2
(1) E8145 Chimney CapA: (5/8 mdf) 23/4x 13/4
(1) E3626 Flower Box9: (1/2) 3/4x 31/2, Mitered
(2) E9803 Stringer10: (1/8 x 13/16 mdf) 107/8, Mitered
(1) E8170 (575) ShinglesA
Box “B”
(2) 6042 Assembled Door6
(1) E8170 (575) ShinglesA
bag5:
(6) E8160 Window Frame 33/4miter 45°/\45°
(12) E8156 Window Frame 23/4miter 45°/\45°
(4) E8164 Window Frame 115/16 miter 45°/\45°
(20)E3633 Shutter Panel (1/16 x 3/4) 17/8
bag5:
(18)E8155 Window Frame: 51/4miter 45°/\45°
(2) E8159 Middle Frame 47/16
(2) E8161 Trim (1/16 x 3/8pine) 49/16
(2) E8158 Spacer 115/16”
(2) E8165 Spacer 13/16
bag5:
(6) E8157 Standard Pane (Printed Plexi) 45/8x 21/8
(2) E8162 Short Pane (Printed Plexi) 31/32 x 21/8
(4) E8163 Narrow Pane (Printed Plexi): 15/16 x 45/8
bundle5:
(4) E8166 Short Window Shutter Core (1 x 1/8) 31/8
(10)E3632 Std Shutter Core (1 x 1/8) 45/8
(12)J0644 Interior Window Trim (3/32 x 3/8) 227/32 angled/\
(18)J0645 Interior Window Trim (3/32 x 3/8) 511/32 angled/\
(6) J0642 Interior Window Trim (3/32 x 3/8) 323/32 angled/\
(4) J0643 Interior Window Trim (3/32 x 3/8) 2 angled/\
(2) J0640 Interior Door Trim (3/32 x 3/8) 311/32 angled/\
(4) J0641 Interior Door Trim (3/32 x 3/8) 711/16 angled1
Parts List page 5
Instructions for Special Edition Kit #JM-1065 Victoria’s Farmhouse
Eave
Front Roof
Rear Roof
Bevel
Bevel
False Eave
Access Bay Ceiling
Bay Base Floor
Chimney Block
Window Frame
Trim
1/2 Flutepost
Middle Frame
Cross section of Trim
AccessBay Bay
Gable
bag:
(148)E3622 1/8Dowels9 : 13/4
(4) E3960 3/8Beads9
(4) E8150 Balcony Post9: (1/2 Flutepost) 23/8
(4) E8167 Short Window Shutter Panel5 (1/16 x 3/4) 25/8
bag: 9
(4) E3619 Porch Post: (1/2 Flutepost) 9
(4) E8151 Porch Rails: 43/4
(2) E8152 Porch Rails: 63/16
(8) E8153 Porch Rails: 95/32
(4) E8154 Porch Rails: 115/8
Trim Box 7 & 9
(7) E8146 Trim: (1 x 1/8) Over 231/2
(7) E3689 Trim: (3/4 x 3/32) Over 231/2
(1) E8147 Trim: (1/2 x 1/8) Over 231/2
(8) E3966 Trim: (1/2 x 3/32) Over 231/2
(9) E8148 Trim: (3/8 x 3/32) Over 231/2
(11) E8149 Trim: (3/16 x 3/32) Over 231/2
Bay Side
Bay Front

c1. Assemble the Front Steps (5/8 mdf) 5 x 2 and 5 x 1:
Glue together the Front Steps lined up on the back edge and
both ends
c2. Assemble the Chimney: Glue together the
Caps, centered. Turn the Caps up-side-down; glue
the Chimney Block to the Caps, centered.
c3. Assemble the Bay Wall sets; each set is
2) Bay Verticals and 2) Bay Walls (13/4or 31/2” long)
See page 12
Make two Bay Side wall sets
Make one Bay Front wall set
This is the Outside
This is the Outside
This is the Outside
Bay Wall
Bay Vertical: (3/8) 97/32 x 3/4, Bev.
Bay Wall
view from the top
A: Getting Started: Do these things before the house assembly
Stain the Shingles: Our pro uses Real Good Toys’ Shingle Dye
(available through your Real Good Toys miniature dealer) when dying
the shingles for this house. Batch dye or stain the shingles several
days ahead of time so they will be dry when the time comes to use them
(instructions are with the shingle dye).
Square the corners of the window, door, and stair holes with a utility knife - each
cutout has a rounded corner left over from the tool that made it. Make two cuts in
each corner from the outside (one from each direction), then cut from each direc-
tion on the inside to cut away the rounding in the corner so the window, door, or
stairs will t.
Paint (B) / Housebody (1) page 6
Instructions for Special Edition Kit #JM-1065 Victoria’s Farmhouse
Pre-Assembly
Clapboard Prole
A Double-Cut Coarse le is
easier for many people to use
when squaring the corners.
Make several strokes from each
direction in each corner and test
the Window or Door to see how
it ts.
Like this!
Clapboard Prole
Clapboard Prole

Paint (B) / Housebody (1) page 7
Instructions for Special Edition Kit #JM-1065 Victoria’s Farmhouse
Illustration #1
Front/Back Overlap
the Sides
Illustration #2
Install the Middle Foundations
±11”
±11”
±11”
33”
183/4
c4 A. Glue and tape together the Foundation pe-
rimeter. The Front and Back overlap the Sides
(Illustration #1).
B. Install the Middle Foundations spaced
evenly (about ±11”) from each other (Illustration #2).
Gable Top Floor
Top Floor
This edge...
is traced here
141/2
141/4
Left edge
Front-left edge
Porch Floor is outside the tracing
c5. A. Identify the top and front edges of the Top
Floor ((3/8) 28 x 141/2,) - the Gable Top Floor ((3/8) 141/2x
53/4)shows the spacing from the left edge to the stair
hole (141/2”), and the stair hole is closer to the front
edge. Glue and tape the Gable Top Floor to the front
edge of the Top Floor, lined up on the left
B. Identify the left edge of the Mid Floor - the stair
hole is spaced 141/4” from the left edge, and 163/4”
from the right edge (looking from the front). Set the
Mid Floor on the Base Floor, lined up on the edges.
Very lightly trace the left and right edges of the stair
hole onto the Base Floor. Remove the Middle Floor.
C. Set the Top Floor/Gable Floor on the Mid Floor
lined up at the back edge and lined up side-to-side at
the stair holes (the left edge of the Top Floor will over-
hang 1/4” on the left edge). Trace the Top Floor/Gable
Floor perimeter onto the Mid Floor. This tracing is the
outside edge of the right walls - outside the tracing is
the Porch Floor. Trace the Top Floor/Gable Floor onto
the bottom surface of the Mid Floor. This tracing is the
Porch Ceiling (make sure the tracings line up with each
other)
D. Set the Top Floor/Gable Floor on the Base Floor
lined up at the back edge and lined up side-to-side with
the stair hole tracing (the left edge of the Top Floor
will overhang 1/4”). Trace the Top Floor/Gable Floor
perimeter onto the Base Floor.
In step 5, you are marking the Porch oor and ceiling for
painting using the Top Floor as a template. But, the left
edge of the Top Floor doesn’t line up with the left edge of the
Middle Floor or Base Floor (the Top Floor overlaps the walls,
while the lower oors t into grooves), so the stair hole will be
used as a side-to-side reference instead of the left edge.
Can I do it differently? Yes you can - it’s your house!
The information on these pages is offered as “best practices” advice, and it is what we do when we build this house.
But if you are customizing or have something else in mind, test-ahead to make sure your planning includes everything!
For many photos of the build go to
www.realgoodtoys.help and click on “JM1065”

The Base Floor overhangs
±1/4” at the Front and Right
edges (view from the Front)
Make the Foundation line up
on the left edge
Make the Foundation line up in Back
Housebody (1) page 8Instructions for Special Edition Kit #JM-1065 Victoria’s Farmhouse
If you are wiring this house, I recommend the #7999 wiring set, which uses a Jack and Plug in the foundation to connect the
house to the Power Supply. If so, cut an Electrication Slot in the edge of the Base Floor, using the Middle Floor as a guide.
See www.reqalgoodtoys.help for a tutorial.
Caution: Look at the Foundation and Base Floor
several times before leaving it to dry... the overhang
is on the right and in front.
Lined up in Back
Lined up on the Left
(looking from the front)
c1. Glue, tape, and weight the founda-
tion set to the housebody’s Base Floor;
ush at the back and along the left edge.
The oor overhangs ±1/4” at the front and
right edges (Illustration #3). You may have
to ex the Foundation into position... this is
the step that straightens the Foundation.
Painting: www.realgoodtoys.help has painting and sanding videos
Assemble the Housebody
Paint (rst-coat) everything. Don’t try to sand , ll, primp, or do much of anything to the wood before the rst coat.
The rst coat lls and reinforces the wood so sanding clips off the bers rather than pushing them around. The rst-
coat is all about what penetrates and lls the wood. There is no expectation that more than a hint of paint will be on the
surface. Don’t ‘double paint’ or try to give it an extra thick rst coat as you watch the paint soak in... that is expected and
preferred.
The rst benet of painting before assembly (one-coat) is that it is the easiest time to do a really thorough job of sand-
ing after painting. The difference between a heirloom-grade nish on a dollhouse and a “I-was-in-a-hurry” nish is most
often the quality of the sanding, and it’s hard to sand into the little hidden corners of an assembled dollhouse, but it’s easy
to sand the at panels layed out on a workbench.
So sand everything now - sand until the paint is smooth and transparent with no scratchiness to it, and with lots of wood
showing through the paint. For the clapboard walls, sand “one clapboard course at-a-time”: fold the sandpaper and hold
it on your nger-tips, then sand back-and-forth across one clapboard’s suface 2 or 3 times, then move up to the next clap-
board. “One at a time” is what makes it smooth and “Heirloom-Great”.
The second coat goes on smooth and creamy, and except for touchup, it may be enough. Second coat the walls and porch
sections, leaving any edge or surface that will be glued un-painted. Wait to second coat the railings and windows.
First-coat Sanding one course at a time
Front
“Right” and “Left” are from
the front of the dollhouse
Front
Back
Right
Right

Illustration #6
Glue and tape the
Gable Front & Gable
Left Side to the Base
Floor
Illustration #8
Glue and Tape the 1st
Floor Walls in Place
Lined up and taped at the back edge
2. Glue and tape the Gable Front to the Gable
Left Side panel (the Front overlaps the Side), with the
grooves perfectly lined up (use a divider to make sure
the grooves line up) see Illustration #5. Let the glue
dry.
Housebody (1) page 9Instructions for Special Edition Kit #JM-1065 Victoria’s Farmhouse
The Grooves are
Lined up
Illustration #5
Gable Front Overlaps
the Gable Left Side
Base Floor
3. Glue and tape the Gable Front and
Gable Left Side assembly to the Base Floor,
straight and tight (Illustration #6). The Base
Floor sets into the Base Floor’s groove in the
walls
Use lots of tape to make the walls hold tight
to the Floor in the grooves.
4. Glue and tape the rst oor walls in
place (the Gable Right Side, Right Front, and
Right Side walls) following the perimeter
tracing (Illustration #8).
Right Front
Right Side
Gable
Left Side
Step 4
Detail of overlaps
(temporary)
Divider
ts here
Gable Right
Side
Gable Front
Stair hole or tracing
lines up with this edge
of the Gable Side

Housebody (1) page 10
Instructions for Special Edition Kit #JM-1065 Victoria’s Farmhouse
c5. Test the Middle Floor in the grooves in the
Gable Front and Gable Left Side. Sand the top and bot-
tom at the edges if necessary for a good t.
Glue and tape the Middle Floor to the Walls, fully into
the grooves of the Gable Front/Left Side, with the walls
lined up with the ceiling tracing and ush at the back
edge (Illustration #9).
c 6. Glue and tape the Second Floor walls in place
following the tracing. Make sure the right side walls line
up at the back edge, and look lined up with each other
when viewed from the front.
c 7. Glue and tape the Top Floor/Gable Floor to the
walls, lined up with all of the walls on the outside (Illus.
11). If you are going to wire your dollhouse, trace and
carve the bottom of the Electrication slot to make it
exposed inside the Left Side Wall (don’t make it deeper
at the top, just at the bottom) before gluing on the oor
Gable Front:
ts in the groove
Lines up in back
Use a Divider here to straighten
and line up the Right Side
Lines up in back
Review:
• Look at the housebody from every angle.
Everything should be tight and lined up.
• Make sure the housebody is on a at
surface as the glue dries.
• Prop dividers between the oors to keep
them straight.
• Add weight and plenty of tape to keep
everything tight and straight as the glue
dries.
Illustration #9
Glue and Tape the
Middle Floor to the
Walls - Tight in the
Groove.
Use a Divider here to support
and line up the corner
Lined up
AccessBay Spacer
(3/8 mdf) 11/2x 61/4
Left Side
AccessBay Mid Floor
(3/8 mdf) 1 x 61/4
AccessBay Base Floor
(1/4 mdf) 1 x 61/4
Lined up
Top Floor
Illus. 11
Illus. 10
Top Floor
Attic Endwall
will go here
Left Side Wall
Carve for tapewire access to Electrication slot
Note: clean paint out of the grooves!
c 8. Glue and tape the Access Bay Spacer to the
Gable Left Side and to the Top Floor (Illus #11).
Note: The AccessBay Spacer is smooth - it is hidden by
other parts.
c 9. Glue and tape the AccessBay Mid Floor and Ac-
cessBay Base Floor the the Middle Floor and Base Floor
(Illus. 11, see also step 1, page 10)
c 10. Glue and tape the Housebody’s Left Side to
the Floors and Spacer, tight in the grooves and lined up
at the back edge.

Attic and Roofs (2) page 11
Instructions for Special Edition Kit #JM-1065 Victoria’s Farmhouse
Even
Spacing
One
Shingle
Length
Front Roof
Bevel
Eave
Front Roof
Overlaps
the Rear Roof
Eave
One Shingle length
Illustration #2
Shingle Guidelines
1”
1”
1”
1”
1”
1”
1”
1”
1”
1”
Illustration #3
Rear Roof
Illustration #4
Attic Endwall
Gable Triangle
c7. Glue the Gable Roofs to each other, the Ga-
ble Triangle, and the house’s Front Roof. Add extra
glue to the “V” space between the Gable Roofs and
the Front Roof. Tape inside and out for a good t.
Review: The shell of the house is all together and
the panels are straight and tight. Make sure the
house is at on a at surface as the glue dries.
c5. Glue and tape the Eaves in place on the re-
maining exposed top edge of the Attic Endwalls, ush
at the outside edge of the Rear Roof. Look under the
Eaves to check that the spacing is even (Illus. #4).
c6. Tape together the Gable Roofs at the
peak. Test the Gable Roofs on the house (Make sure
the house Front Roof is touching the Third oor all
along the front edge). Look at the t from the inside
and adjust if necessary. Mark the position of the
Gable Roofs on the house’s Front Roof
c3. Without glue, Test the Roof panels on
the house. Make sure the Front Roof touches
the Third Floor’s edge all across the Front (par-
ticularly on both sides of the gable ... trim the
cutout’s inside corners for a good t: Illus-
tration #3).
c4. *Glue and tape the Front and Rear Roofs
together. The Rear Roof is beveled where the
two roofs meet. Use many pieces of tape across
the top, and tape around each end.
Before the glue dries, glue the roofs to the
Attic Endwalls, centered side-to-side, and with
the roof overhanging evenly from top to bot-
tom. Use all the tape you need to hold the roof
tight as the glue dries.
c1. Glue and tape the Gable Triangle and Attic End-
wall Triangles to the Top Floor. Tape a Divider or Attic
Partition to the Triangles to hold them straight as the
glue dries (Ill. #1).
c2. On the outside of the Roof Panels
draw guidelines for locating Shingles. The rst guide-
line should be drawn one Shingle length from the bottom
edge. Draw the rest of the guidelines spaced 1” apart
(Illustration #2 and the Guideline Measure at right).
Now is an easy time to pre-cut attic wallpaper
II. Build the Attic and Roof ...
Plan ahead:
Pre-paint (or mark, and paint as you go) any parts that
will be a different color from the ones they touch.
It is easiest to do some of the wiring and interior nish-
ing in the attic before attaching the Rear Roof
Attic Partition for
temporary support
Illustration #1
Glue and Tape the Gable
Triangle and Attic Endwall
Triangles to the Top Floor
Guideline
Measure
Gable Triangle
There are interior nishing decisions that should be made
now. For suggestions, see the “Customizing a Victoria’s
Farmhouse” Blog on the Real Good Toys website.
You can nd a link here: www.Victirias-Farmhouse.com
*Note: I do not attach
the Rear Roof perma-
nently until interior
nishing is done

Exterior Painting:
Finish all of the Exterior painting now!
III. Assemble the Front Bay:
c1. Lay the house assembly on its Back. Glue
the Gable Foundation to the front of the house’s
foundation, lined up on the left. Let the glue dry.
c2. Glue and tape together the Bay
foundation (Illustration #1).
c3. Glue and tape the Bay Base Floor to
the front edge of the house’s Base Floor,
inside the bay cutout in the Gable Front (Il-
lustration #2). Make sure the oor surface
across the joint is tight and smooth.
c4. Glue and tape the Bay Founda-
tion set to the Bay Base Floor and to
the Gable Foundation. The foundation
extends past the Bay Base evenly on all
edges (this is a ledge to hold the bottom
of the Bay Walls).
Front Bay (3) page 12
Instructions for Special Edition Kit #JM-1065 Victoria’s Farmhouse
c5. Tape the Bay wall sets together
at the corners (Illustration #4). Test
them on the house wrapped around
the Bay Floor, and adjust if necessary.
Glue the Bay walls together, to the
Bay Base Floor, and to the foundation
(Illustration #5).
c6. Glue and tape the Bay Top
to the housebody and Bay, spaced
evenly all around (pg 1 photo).
Clapboard
Bay
Vertical
Illustration #5
Glue the Bay Walls Together, to the
Bay Base Floor, and to the Foundation
Illustration #3
Glue together the
Bay Wall Sets
Bay Foundation
Illustration #2
Glue and Tape the Bay Base Floor to the
Front Edge of the House’s Base Floor
Illustration #1
Glue and Tape Together
the Bay Foundation
Bay
Vertical
Clapboard
Illustration #4
Bay Side wall set
Bay Front wall set
Caution!
Don’t
overlook the
Gable Foundation
Clapboard surface is
on the outside
Do Step 2 to Step 4 without stopping
Bay Foundation
Bay Base Floor
Gable Foundation
House Foundation
Gable Foundation
Clapboard

AccessBay (4) page 13
Instructions for Special Edition Kit #JM-1065 Victoria’s Farmhouse
IV. Assemble the Access Bay:
The Access Bay allows the decorator access to the gable’s
front rooms.
c1. (this may already be done) Glue and tape the Access
Bay Floors to the housebody’s oors, tight and straight.
Dividers between the Access Bay oors help to keep the
oors lined up (Illustration #1).
c2. Prepare for Attaching the Hinges:
Preview: In this section, you will temporarily install the
hinges for the Access Bay Front and Access Bay Left
Side. You are doing this now so you can work at on the
table where you can hammer and drive screws more eas-
ily than inside an assembled house.
Make sure your #1 Phillips head screwdriver is in new
condition.
Check that the hinge can open a bit more than 3/4 of the
way around (this helps the Accessbay Front from being
“springy” when it closes).
c3. Check the clapboard prole on the Access Bay
Front and Access Bay Side to identify the base end of
each of those panels. Mark the base end so that even
when the clapboard surface is on the work table, you can
tell that the base end is at the bottom (Illustration #2).
c4. Lay the Access Bay Front face down with the clap-
board surface on the work table.
c5. Tape two hinges on the Front Panel pin down and
hooked on the edge, one spaced 1” from the top, and the
other spaced 1” from the bottom (Illustration #3).
Glue and tape the Access Bay
Floors to the Housebody’s Floors.
Illustration #1
Divider
Dividers help to keep
the Floors Lined Up
Illustration #2
Base End
Illustration #3
Tape Hinges Pin Down
and Hooked on the edge 1” from the top edge
1” from the bottom edge
Hinges Pin Down
and hooked on the edge
Clapboard faces down
AccessBay Floor
Punch a starter hole in the center of each hole in
the hinge: Drive a nail part way through the wall and
pull it back out (don’t go all the way through).
Builders Tip: Stick the screws in a soft bar of soap to
make them turn in easier.
Start a screw in each hole (the tape will help the
screw stand up). Drive the screw 1/2way in with a
hammer (hit it hard!), and the rest of the
way with a #1 Phillips screwdriver.
Repeat for the other screws.
Turn the tape to cover the hinge and screws.
Add another piece of tape... this will hold the Access-
Bay Front a bit away from the Side in the next step.
More great tips on installing screws:
www.realgoodtoys.help
go to “JM1065”, then click “Blog”

AccessBay (4) page 14
Instructions for Special Edition Kit #JM-1065 Victoria’s Farmhouse
c6. Set an Access Bay Side on the edge of your work-
bench with the clapboard up. Let the Access Bay Front
Hang off the front of the workbench. Fold the Hinges across
the clapboard surface of the Access Bay Side. Line up the
top edges of the Access Bay Front and Access Bay Side
(check the clapboard prole again) see Illustration #4.
Builder’s tip: let the Accessbay Front hang a little bit away
from the Accessbay Side so they won’t be quite touching in
the assembled house.
c7. Tape the Hinges to the Side. Punch a starter hole
and drive the screws as you did for the Front, then take the
screws back out of the Front (it’s easier building the house
without the Access Bay Front attached).
c8. Glue and tape the Access Bay Sides to the house-
body’s walls and Access Bay Floors (Illustration #5).
c9. Glue and tape the Access Bay Ceiling to the house
and tops of the Access Bay Sides, lined up on the outside.
c10. Glue and tape the Access Bay Roof to the Access-
Bay Ceiling, centered side-to-side (Illus. 6).
c11. Hinge the Access Bay Front in place using the holes
prepared in step #5.(Illustration #6).
Access Bay Front
Access Bay Left Side
Illustration #6
Illustration #5
Glue and Tape the Access Bay
Sides to the Housebody’s Walls &
Access Bay Floors
Hinge the Access
Bay Front in Place
Lined Up
Workbench
Illustration #4
Hinge
Screw
AccessBay Side
AccessBay Front
AccessBay Front
AccessBay Side
Left Side
AccessBay Ceiling
AccessBay Roof
Masking Tape gives
clearance here

Windows (5) page 15
Instructions for Special Edition Kit #JM-1065 Victoria’s Farmhouse
Illustration #1
Illustration #2
Window Plexi
Inside
Side Frame
Face Down
Top Frame
Side Frame
Face Down:
Inside Showing
Bottom Frame
Illustration #4
Plexi
These hands are holding the frame parts down
against the table (not squeezing them together)
115/16 Spacers
Illustration #3
Middle Frame
Trim
V. Window Assembly:
The parts used in this section should be
painted ahead of time. If they have not
been painted, do so now.
1. Standard Windows: Test assem-
ble (no glue) the window set.
Practice holding the frame pieces face-
down on the work surface and putting on the
rubber band. When you can do it every time
without pieces ying, then you are ready for
glue (Illustration #1).
2. Glue and rubber band together the
window frame with the Window Plexi in
place. Make sure the assembly is square as
the glue dries (Illustration #2).
www.realgoodtoys.help has more
window assembly photos
A snip of tape in the corners helps
keep the parts still while you put put
on the rubber band, but take off the
tape while the glue dries.
3. Short and the Narrow Windows:
assemble these windows as you did the
Standard Window.
4. Standard Double Window:
Lay out and assemble the Double Win-
dow face down on the work surface
(Illustration #4).
5. Turn the Double Window face up
and push the Middle Frame down to the
work surface. Adjust the spacing of the
Middle Frame with the 115/16” Spacers (Il-
lustration #5).
6. Glue the Trim to the Frames cen-
tered on the Middle Frame.
7. Narrow Double Window: As-
semble the Narrow Double Window as you
did the Standard Double Window using the
13/16” Spacers to locate the Middle Frame.
8. Touch-up the sanding and paint, but
stay away from the Window Pane!
9. Check the t of the windows in
the openings. Make sure the windows
can sit level with the house. Trim the
corners of the openings square if neces-
sary for a good t.

Windows (5) page 16
Instructions for Special Edition Kit #JM-1065 Victoria’s Farmhouse
c10. Paint the Shutter parts. Without glue, adjust the spacing
of the Shutter Panels on the Shutter Cores. Remove the Shutter
Panel, put a scant line of glue on each edge of the back surface,
then replace the Shutter Panel. Too much glue will make the
panel curl.
VI. Install the windows and door
The parts used in this section should be painted ahead of time.
If they have not been painted, do so now.
c1. Touch-up the sanding and paint. Check the t of the door
in the opening. Make sure the door can sit level with the house.
Trim the corners of the opening square if necessary for a good t.
c2. Glue the door in place only after the housebody is painted.
c3. Install the Windows and Doors.
c4. Glue the Shutters in place against the Windows, centered
up and down (Illustration #1).
Do not install Interior Trim until interior nishing is done.
Centered
Illustration #1
Shutter is Centered
Up-and-Down
Shutter
Core
Shutter Panel
Shutter Core
Shutter Panel

Trim (7) page 17
Instructions for Special Edition Kit #JM-1065 Victoria’s Farmhouse
Gable and Attic Endwall Trim:
Cut the Trim material with a ne toothed saw (such
as an x-acto™ razor saw or a hack saw). Line up the
trim material with the pattern and mark the cuts with a
pencil ... there is enough material to get all the parts, but
a wrong cut can leave you with two short pieces when
you need one long piece. Plan ahead (!), then make
your cut. Always cut the longest pieces rst, and nest
parts that are mitered.
The Attic Partition has all the angles that are needed
for the trim. Hold the trim against the side of the Attic
Partition to help stabilize the saw when you start a cut,
but do not damage the Attic Partition.
Measurements given in this set of illustrations are
taken from a model that we built, but may be different
from what works on your house. Always test a part in
place on the house before the nal cut-to-length
to make sure your work ts on your house.
c1. Cut 1” Trim 121/16”, mitered as shown in
Illustration #1 & #6. Without glue, test the Trim
along with a False Eave. When the Trim length is
right, the False Eave just reaches from roof to roof.
Paint and install the Trim and False Eaves.
c2. Trim for the Attic Endwalls:
Cut 1” Trim 57/32” mitered like the
perimeter of Illustration #2.
For the Gable (Illus. #3 & #4), install
the window, and trim around it
with 1/8” x 1/2” Trim (one piece
of the 1/2” Trim supplied
is thicker than all the rest ...
just as thick as the lip on
the window frame).
Paint and install the
Horizontal Trim.
Illustration #1
Trim
False
Eave
Illustration #2
Illustration #3
Illustration #4
1” Trim:
121/16”
53/8
57/32
57/32
41/2
11/16

Trim (7) page 18
Instructions for Special Edition Kit #JM-1065 Victoria’s Farmhouse
c3. Shingle the False Eave (Illustration #5) one full shingle
course and one course of shingles cut 3/4” long. See the shin-
gling instruction on page 17.
c4. Cut, Paint, and install 3/4” Trim on the Eaves and 3/32”
x 1/2” Trim (the same thickness as the 3/4” Trim) for the hori-
zontals Illus. #6. The bottom edge of the Eave Trim touches
the shingles on the False Eave (Illus. #7).
c5. Cut, paint, and install the 3/16” Trim as shown.
c6. Finish any touch-up painting that is needed.
Illustration #6
Illustration #7
3/4” Trim:
121/8”
57/16”
1/2” Trim
3/16” Trim:
121/4”
3/16” Trim: 65/8”
3/16”
3/4”
1”

3/16”
3/4”
3/8”
Trim (7) page 19
Instructions for Special Edition Kit #JM-1065 Victoria’s Farmhouse
c7. Cut, paint, and install the Front
Bay Facia (Illustration #8).
c8. Cut, paint, and install the Wall
Trim as shown in Illustration #9.
Illustration #8
Use this Bevel Guide
when Cutting the
Ends of the Bay Facia
Illustration #9
3/8”
3/16”
3/8”
3/8”
3/8”
1/2”
1/2”
1/2”
1/2”
1/2”
3/16”
1/2”
3/8”
A Trim Cutting photo gallery is at
www.realgoodtoys.help

Shingle the Roof page 20
Instructions for Special Edition Kit #JM-1065 Victoria’s Farmhouse
VIII. Finish the Exterior:
c1. Attach the (painted) Chimney to the roof in
line with the Attic Endwall and slightly lower than
the peak.
c2. Shingle the Roof: Glue: Use a thick,
solvent-based panel adhesive available in caulking
gun tubes at building supply stores. Look for the
“Flammable” warning to know it is a Solvent Based
adhesive, and follow the manufacturer’s warnings.
If there are no warnings or if it says “water clean
up”, then it is an acrylic based adhesive and will curl
the shingles.
A. Glue a “starter row” or 3/8” long Shingles square
edge down along the bottom edge of the Roof, or
“Flash” the edge with a 1/2” strip of copper (#SC
from Real Good Toys is available through your
dealer) to prepare the bottom edge of the Roof for
the rst row of shingles
B. Cut pairs of shingles that, when held in the val-
ley, are straight up-and-down the roof on their outer
edges. Shingle the valleys
C. Apply a thin line of adhesive just below the low-
est guideline all the way across one roof. Press the
top edge of a Shingle into the line of glue, squeez-
ing out the excess Hold the rst Shingle and press
another Shingle into the adhesive, tight to the rst.
Hold the next Shingle and press in another... etc. all
the way across the roof, cutting the last Shingle to t
Continue up the roof one row at a time. Start
the next row with a half Shingle so that the seam
between Shingles is staggered back and forth as you
go up the roof. Line up the top edge of each row
(except the starters) with the guidelines.
Cut the top row of Shingles so that each row
will have the same reveal. Finish the top edge with
a “Boston Lap”: pairs of Shingles laid horizontally.
Start at the ends of the peak, and, with each pair
overlapping the previous pair, work to the middle.
Chimney Cap
(1/4”) 21/2” x 11/2”
Chimney Cap
(5/8”) 23/4” x 13/4”
Illustration 1
Chimney
Chimney Block
Shingle Illustration #2
One Inch
Line of Adhesive
Shingle Guideline
Boston Lap Shown at the Peak
There is a Shingling demo at
www.realgoodtoys.help
Valley Shingles
Starter Course
Starter Course or
Copper Flashing