US Cutter SC User manual

User Manual & Assembly Instructions

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GET EVERYTHING FOR YOUR
VINYL CUTTING NEEDS
Table of Contents
Thank you for purchasing the SC vinyl cutter. Please read this manual
completely and keep it in a safe place for future reference.
For Accessories, Supplies, and replacement parts please visit
our website at www.uscutter.com
• is device uses sharp blades to cut vinyl. Take care not to touch the blades or gears during operation!
• Make sure this device is not connected to power during assembly, service, and maintenance. Also beware
of static build- up. We recommend using mats and anti-static vinyl systems.
• Vinyl cutting is not recommended for young children.
Please read and heed these
important safety messages:
GreenStar 12-Color Starter Kit
Green Star IPV vinyl is great for general
purpose interior/exterior graphics of all types.
An excellent vinyl to cut, weed and transfer,
Green Star IPV vinyl has an outdoor lifespan of
up to 5 years (3 years for metallic vinyl) and is
made in USA. Includes twelve 24” x 5 yard rolls.
The Siser EasyWeed Starter Kit
consists of twelve 15” by 12”
sheets of Siser EasyWeed heat-
transfer vinyl in the 12 most
popular colors. A great way to get
acquainted with this versatile product!
Oracal 8510 gives the professional appearance
of etched glass for a fraction of the price and
labor associated with sandblasting. This vinyl is
meant for long-term indoor and outdoor window
application to provide business names, logos and
other graphics on entrance doors, street-facing
windows, and corporate environments. This starter
kit includes a 24” x 10 yard roll of coarse silver
structure vinyl, clear high-tack application tape for
accurate registration and ease of use, a squeegee,
and application uid for wet application.
The ORACAL 631 24 x 5 Sample Pack
contains 12 of the most popular
colors in the ORACAL 631 line.
ORACAL 631 vinyl is a removable
calendared vinyl that is ideal for
most indoor applications. It features
a lower-tack adhesive that won’t
damage interior walls during removal. Also has a
matte surface which matches interior paint
Greenstar Outdoor Starter Pack Oracal 631 Starter Kit
Siser Start Bundle Etched Glass Kit
Save big on bundles
e fastest and most economical way to get started.
SAME DAY SHIPPING
Order by 4:30PM EST
651
1
1 Intro
2Where to use and store your vinylcutter
3 What’s in the box
4 Assembling the stand
8Getting to know your vinyl cutter
10 Connecting to a computer
11 Setting up media
16 Making your rst test cut
15 Control Panel
20 Troubleshooting
22 Maintenance
23
23 Cut and place vinyl like a pro
Take Your Craft Cutting to the
NEXT LEVEL
14 Blade set up
18 Contour cutting
Go to USCutter.com and search keyword:
“Greenstar outdoor bundle” for pricing.
Go to USCutter.com and search keyword:
“Oracal 631” bundle for pricing.
Go to USCutter.com and search keyword:
“Siser starter bundle” bundle for pricing. Go to USCutter.com and search keyword:
“etched glass kit” for pricing.

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Items:
Locations for use and storage What’s in the box
Where to use and store your vinyl Cutter
Location, Location, Location! It’s not just important for real estate. Where your vinyl
cutter “lives” in your home or business is a vitally important element of your success.
You need access to a 110 volt grounded electrical outlet. at’s the standard
household kind with three holes, not two. Be safe... don’t plug your cutter into
an already over-crowded powerstrip or system of extension cords.
Dust and dirt will limit the useful life of your cutter. If you use it in a dusty or
dirty environment the cooling fans will suck in the dust and it will get inside
the machine and gum up the works.
Operate on a stable surface. A solid at surface is needed for your vinyl cutter
to do its best work. If it wobbles or vibrates during operation your cut is not
going to be as sharp and clean as it could be.
Access is important. e SC Cutter is a large machine, but it doesn’t belong in
the corner during use. You’ll need to access the front and back of the cutter to
operate it and change the vinyl rolls.
1
2
3
4
5
6
F
E D
B
C
A
A:
B:
C:
D:
E:
F:
G:
H:
I:
J:
K:
L:
M:
G
Before starting work, please check whether the
following items are all present.
If any parts seem to be missing from your package
please contact support @1-888-975-2047
ere will be some noise when the cutter is in use. Take that into account
when you locate your vinyl cutting headquarters.
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Position the SC Cutter near enough to your computer to be able to attach it via USB
cable or 9-pin serial cable. Internet access will be necessary for downloading drivers
and soware.
I
H
JK
L
M
Foot
Cutter
Casters
Cross Brace
Roller Bars
Leg
Mount
Roller Bracket
Power Cord
USB Cable
9 Pin Adapter
Screw Bag
Vinyl Soware

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Assembling the stand
Before you begin:
Read the assembly instructions from beginning to end. Give
yourself plenty of time. Gather the tools you’ll need that aren’t
inluded in the box:
1. A Phillips head screwdriver.
2. Pliers, or a crescent wrench.
Here’s how to assemble the stand:
Step 1.
Attach the feet (A) to the legs (F).
This is the foot:
This is the leg:
Attach the foot to the leg with four #1 screws.
Notice there are way more than four holes on the foot.
Line up the foot and the leg so that the four holes in the leg that look like this line up with
the four holes on the foot.
Which end of the leg do I attach the foot? They both have holes.
Assembling the stand
Good question. See those two holes that are further toward one end of the leg?
That’s where your cross piece is going to attach and hold the two legs together.
Attach the foot to the other end.
One side is rounded and the other has sharp corners? Which side should face
out?
The rounded edge side should face out. If you look closely at the holes you will
see that one side is biger than the other. The small holes will attach the cross
piece and you’ll screw them in through the larger hole.
Attach the foot to the leg with four #1 screws using the Phillips screwdriver.
Repeat with the other leg and foot making sure the rounded edge faces out and
the holes for the cross piece are close to the top.
Install foot here
Face out Face in
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Assembling the stand Assembling the stand
Step 2.
Attach the cross piece (D) to the legs (F
This is where making use of a chair or
bench to hold the cross piece in place while


up the leg? That’s where you’ll attach the
cross piece.
We’ve got the rounded edge and sharp edge situation again? Which way do I
orient the crossbeam?
It actually doesn’t matter, but the rounded edge looks a little more
aesthetic, so we like to make that the front-facing side.
Here’s the tricky part: You need to insert the #1 screws through both
holes in the stand legs (the outside and the inside), so the screw will be
recessed while you attach it to the cross piece. The leg is hollow and if
your screw falls into the hole, turn the leg upside down so your screw
falls out and you can try again.
Step 3.
Now let’s mount the roller brackets (I) to the legs (F). They’ll attach at the
crosspiece and will create a place for the rollers to sit.
NOTE: If your roller brackets arrived in four pieces instead of two, simply
attach the black plastic roller guides to the metal brackets with those extra six
screws (the smallest ones).

legs. The metal brackets have a “lip” which
the roller guide sits on. When you attach the
bracket, make sure the lip faces outward like
this: H
F
Step 4.
Attach the mounting brackets (G) to the top of the legs (F). This is where you
will mount your SC Cutter. Almost done!!

the mounting brackets to the legs. The brack-
ets have a staircase-like shape. you will screw
the lower “stair” to the standleg and will attach
your SC Cutter to the upper “stair” in a later
step.
Since you’re only using two screws, position
them so that if you drew a line between them it could make a diagonal line.
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Step 5.
Attach the wheels (C). You won’t need any screws for this because the wheels
have screws already attached. Simply
screw them into the bottom of the
stand feet(A)., two wheels for each
foot.
C
A
C
Step 6.
Mount the SC Cutter (B) to the mounting brackets (G) on the stand. Lift the SC
Cutter onto the brackets so that the plastic end pieces rest on

secure the cutter to the brackets. The upper “stair” will appear
to have many more slots than you will need but just use the
holes that line up with the slots.
Remember to take
the four rubber feet
o from the bottom
of the SC Cutter
G
B
F
D
F
G

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Get to know your cutter Get to know your cutter
Before you start cutting, you should familiarize yourself with the
cutter along with its basic parts and functions.
CONTROL PANEL Used to provide input directly to the cutter. Covered in detail in the
“Control Panel” section of this manual.
CARRIAGE ARM Holds the blade (or pen) carriage.
PINCH ROLLERS Holds the media tightly to the feed roller below.
FEED ROLLERS Positions the cutting material during operation.
LASER Used by the cutter to determine the location of cut contours
LEFT SIDE COVER Contains the power cable port, power switch, and fuse cartridge for the
cutter.
RIGHT SIDE COVER Contains the USB and serial cable ports for the cutter.
CONTROL PANEL
CARRIAGE ARM
PINCH ROLLERS
FEED ROLLERS
RIGHT SIDE COVER
LEFT SIDE COVER
LASER
CARRIAGE SLOT
LOCKING KNOB
CARRIAGE SLOT Holds the blade carriage in
place.
LOCKING KNOB
Allows access to the blade/pen
carriage slots for exchanging/
replacing carriages.
USB CABLE PORT
USB CABLE PORT Used to connect a USB cable
from the cutter to a computer.
SERIAL (COM) CABLE
PORT
Used to connect a serial cable
from the cutter to a computer.
RIGHT SIDE VIEW
POWER SWITCH
FUSE CARTRIDGE
POWER CABLE PORT
POWER CABLE PORT
Used to connect a power cable
from the cutter to a wall outlet
or surge protector.
POWER SWITCH
Main power switch for turning
the power of the cutter on (1)
or o (0).
FUSE CARTRIDGE Allows access to the fuse inside
of the cutter.
LEFT SIDE VIEW
SERIAL (COM) CABLE PORT

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Connecting the cutter to a computer
Attach the power cord to the cutter and then plug in the
unit and turn on the power.
If using the Serial Cable to connect
your cutter to a computer:
If using the USB Cable to connect
your cutter to a computer:
If you are using a Serial Cable to connect your cutter to a computer then no further
setup is necessary. Simply connect one end of the cable to the cutter and the other end
to a computer and setup is complete. If you have more than one serial connection on
your computer or you are experiencing communication issues between your cutter and
computer then you may wish to verify that the correct COM port is being used in your
software setup, but for most users the COM port will be COM1.
You will need to download and install drivers for the USB connection to work properly.
Go to www.uscuttersupport.com/mh-support-page and select the driver that supports
your Windows version.
Setting up media
Place the roll on top of the stand rollers.
Release the pinch rollers release levers.
If you are going to cut from a scrap or single sheet instead of a roll, then skip the next step on
placing a vinyl roll. All other steps will be the same.
1
2
For heat press vinyl, please ip the roll.
INSTALLING VINYL MASTER SOFTWARE
Your Titan Vinyl Cutter comes bundled with VinylMaster Cut
software, an easy to use software with the tools to help you take
your projects from concept to a ready to cut computer image le.
You can download and install the VinylMaster Cut software at
www.uscutter.com/download, and you will need the key code
packaged with this cutter to activate the software. You may need
to download drivers to support your operating system. Drivers are
available at http://support.uscutter.com
Training for VinylMaster is all done via short videos accessed
through the software. To access the videos, click on the SUPPORT
link, then HELP TOPICS.

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Feed the vinyl underneath the pinch rollers (if
working from a single sheet instead of a roll, the
vinyl can also be feed from the front).
Adjust the pinch rollers so there is one roller located on each side of the vinyl (and, on
models with 3 or more rollers, one roller near the center). Avoid lowering a pinch roller
to the gap between the two feed rollers.
3
4
Leave a gap of between 1/
2”-1
1/
2” from the edge of
the roller and the edge of the vinyl on both sides.
Engage the Pinch Rollers by pushing down on the
Pinch Roller Release Levers.
5
6
If the cutter is not already on, turn it on now.
Setting up MediaSetting up Media

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Control Panel
Changing SC Cutter Speed
and Force
To set speed and force of the SC cutter, make sure you
are back in the “Home” screen with “Local” highlighted.
Press “Enter”. Use the up and down arrows to adjust the
speed and the le and right arrows to adjust the cutting
force. A typical cutting speed is 500mm/s, and a typical
cutting force is 100g.
Home Screen
Setting the Origin for SC Cutter
To set the Origin of where the SC cutter will begin
cutting from press the “Enter” button on “Local” while on
the Home Screen using the “Select” button to highlight
it if needed. is will enter the cutter into “Jog Mode”
where the le and right arrows of the control pad adjust
the position of the carriage and the up and down arrows
advance and retreate the media via the feed rollers. Once
you have your media and carriage in position press the
“Select” button, while in the Local Screen, to move the
cursor to “Current” then press “Enter” and the origin is
set in the correct spot.
Local Screen
Blade Set Up
Unscrew the cap from the
Blade Carriage.
Screw the cap back onto
the Blade Carriage.
Adjust the carriage cap until the blade
is protruding approximately 1/64th of an
inch.
Adjust the Brass Ring until it ts snug
against the Cap. This will help keep
the cap in place during operation.
Set Brass Ring on Blade
Carriage to the fully down
position.
Remove the protective cover
from a new blade.
Insert the blade into the
top of the Blade Carriage.
1
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2 3 4
Blades should be replaced every 6 months. Your blade may need to be replaced
more often if you are cutting thicker material such as ock, glitter, or reectives.
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LOCAL TEST COPY
SPD: 0mm/s PRS: 10g
ORIGIN CURRENT ON
SPD: 0mm/s PRS: 10g
Reset
Select
Enter
Model SC Plotter
Reset
Select
Enter
Model SC Plotter

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1234
LOAD MATERIAL
CHOOSE BLADE
For thin and regular sized media,
use a 45o blade.
Load the blade so
that the length of the
blade shown is not
longer than the media is
thick.
For thicker materials, such as Siser
StripFlock, Siser Glitter, and Hexis
CutFlex 600 Reflective,
a 60o blade is needed.
Most vinyl products are
loaded from over the top.
CUT SPEED
This setting determines how fast the design is cut out
and is usually measured in centimeters per second.
small intricate
designs
DECREASE CUT
SPEED
large simpler de-
signs
INCREASE
CUT SPEED
MEDIA
CARRIER
BLADE MEDIA
CARRIER
BLADE MEDIA
CARRIER
60
MEDIA
CARRIER
BLADE MEDIA
CARRIER
BLADE MEDIA
CARRIER
60
MEDIA
CARRIER
BLADE MEDIA
CARRIER
BLADE MEDIA
CARRIER
60
FORCE/PRESSURE
This setting determines how hard the blade comes down onto the material.
outer square
won’t weed
INCREASE
FORCE
blade digging too far
into carrier
DECREASE FORCE
weeds easily with a light-
ly scored carrier PERFECT!
Test Cut
Making Your First Test Cut
A Basic Guide To Vinyl Cutting
Now that you’ve got your system fully
assembled let’s take a moment to test it and
also take moment to learn a bit about how
to “ne tune” the machine so that it will do
quality cuts on the dierent materials you’ll be
cutting. To do this we’ll do a standard test cut,
which when competed will a simple triangle
inside of a square. Load the material roll and
adjust the pinch rollers. Remember to make
sure the top roller is placed so that there is a
bottom roller (called the “grit roller”) beneath
it. Remember to line the material up so that it
is moving straight through the feed area, and
resist the temptation to run the material close
to the edge of the cutter feed area or you
increase the risk of a mis-feed that will wrinkle
your vinyl. (See the graphic on the top of pg.
21 for an example.)
Assuming you’re cutting standard signage
vinyl, you’ll want to use your 45°blade. If
you received vinyl along with your cutter
package, chances are very good it’s a standard
GreenStar or Oracal signage vinyl. Now, nd
the TEST button on the cutter control pad and
press it. It should cut a pattern that looks like
this:
This Test Cut will help you to calibrate the
machine for this material. Examine this cut
and use a weeding tool or exacto knife to
weed the square out while keeping the
triangle on the paper. (“Weeding” is the word
for removing the cut vinyl in the design.)
Use this simple diagram to make adjustments.
There’s a certain amount of trial and error to it
at rst, but you’ll quickly get a feel for it.

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Laser centered on registration dot
18 19
Contour Cutting Contour Cutting
1Calibrating the laser
Press “Enter” and use the arrow buttons to place the
carriage over a piece of paper. Insert plotter pen and
make an impact on the paper by pressing down and
twisting the pen cartridge.
Turn the cutter’s laser on by pressing the “Select” button
to highlight the word “On” and press “Enter”. e
cartridge and the paper should move immediately and
the laser should be exactly centered on your pen mark.
is shows that the oset between the laser and the pen/
blade is properly calibrated. If your laser doesn’t line
up exactly with the mark, your cuts will not land in the
proper lacation and you will need to adjust the oset.
2Testing the laser oset
Start by placing the test paper ush against the right side
of the cutter and secure the pinch rollers. Hold down the
“Right” arrow and ress the “Reset” button or simply turn
the power o and then back on. If you are successful you
should see the word “OK” on the start up screen. If you
do not see the word “OK” repeat resetting the machine
until you do. Next, make a new impact mark with the
pen. Use the arrows to center the laser directly over
the pen mark and press the “Enter” button. Re-test the
laser oset by repeating step 2. Once you have nished
calibrating your laser it’s time to print your image.
Adjusting the oset
3
4Printing your image
Load your image into the “Sure-Cuts_Allot” soware.
Make sure your art is centered and the size of the cutting
mat in your soware is the same size as the media you
are going to be using. Double check that you have the
correct printer selected by going to “File”, and select
“Print”. Select your printer and make sure you have
checked the box that says “Print Registration Marks”.
Press “OK” to send the job to your printer. You should
now have your printed image with three numbered
registration marks at the corners. Now back to your
cutter for the nal step.
5
Load your image with the registration mark number
“1” in the upper-le hand corner. Now set the position
of the pen/blade infront of, and to the right of your
printed image. Specically infront of the registration
mark. is insures the cutter has enough room to nd all
the registration marks located on the media. To set the
position, press “Enter” with “Local” highlighted and use
the “Arrow” keys to position the carriage. When the pen
is in it’s proper place press “Select” to highlight the word
“On”, and press “Enter”. Now use the “Select” button to
highlight the word “Current” and press “Enter”. e laser
will now be on and the cutter is ready. In the Sure-Cuts-
Allot soware, click on the scissors icon to open your cut
settings window. Click on “Print and Cut” option and
click the “Next” tab twice. e cutter will move from it’s
current position to registration mark number “1”. Don’t
be alarmed if it stops short. Using the keys on your
computer’s keyboard, center the laser over the dot in the
registration mark, then click “Next”. e cutter will move
towards registration mark number “2”. Again, center the
laser over the dot using your computer’s keyboard and
click “Next”. Repeat this process for registration mark
number “3”. Click the “Cut” button and the cutter will
briey return to it’s home position and complete the cut.
Registering prints with the cutter
Flush on right edge
Laser centered
Pen Mark

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Troubleshooting
PROBLEM SOLUTION
The cutter performs erratically
during cuts, stops cutting
before the cut is nished, or
cuts lines that do not appear in
the design.
Some computers do not work well when connected via the USB port of the
cutters. If you are having problems while cutting and are using the USB cable
to connect from your cutter to computer, you may wish to try the serial cable
connection to avoid further problems. If a serial cable connection is not available
on your computer, you can try a third party USB to serial connector or a PCI card
serial adapter for your computer.
After the rst cut is made,
subsequent cuts are made over
the top of the original, or vinyl
is fed backwards until it loses
contact with the rollers.
After a cut is made, you will need to reset the origin of the cutter. If the origin is
not set again, the rst origin will remain in the cutter and the cutter will return to
this position before making any further cuts. To reset the origin; from the main
screen of the cutter, press the Oine/Pause button on and then press the Origin
button.
Cuts are jagged or inconsistent.
The Blade may be dulled or damaged. Replace with a new blade and try again.
Make sure that the blade can turn freely (by attempting to turn it with your
ngers while the release button of the Blade Carriage is pressed).
Adjust the blade depth of the Blade Carriage (page 17) and Force setting on the
cutter (page 8) until you are getting solid, uniform cuts. Start with a blade depth
of around 1/64th of an inch and a pressure setting of 100g and try an increased
pressure setting before attempting to increase the blade depth.
Slashes are made across the
vinyl from the blade movement
during cutting.
If the blade is protruding too far from the Blade Carriage then it can score and
cut material during normal operations. If this is occurring, the blade needs to be
adjusted so that it is protruding a minimal distance from the carriage.
Vinyl not feeding straight and
the rightmost Pinch Roller will
not move.
Sometimes, during shipping or movement of the machine, the right pinch roller
will become stuck on a screw located on the back of the machine. If this occurs
and is aecting your cutting, press forcefully against the pinch roller until it
becomes dislodged from its position. If needed, remove the screw to reposition
the pinch roller in the desired position.
Cuts are warped and
inconsistent.
Sometimes, during shipping or movement of the machine, the Carriage Arm
can be dislodged from its track. Make sure that the 2 white wheels behind the
carriage arm are both resting securely on top of (not in front) of the track. If the
wheels are not on the track, gently lift the carriage arm and press back until both
wheels are resting on the track.
ISSUE
ISSUE ISSUE
ISSUE
CAUSE
CAUSE CAUSE
CAUSE
SOLUTION
SOLUTION SOLUTION
SOLUTION
EXAMPLE
EXAMPLE EXAMPLE
ROUNDED CORNERS CORNERS WITH FLAGS
EXAMPLE
Cut has dashes or looks perforated.
Blade is skipping turns and corners. Corners are not cutting correctly.
Cut line tapers and not cutting
towards the end.
Damaged cutting strip (groove in
strip) or too much blade is exposed
(friction build up).
Part of the blade is dragging on its
side during turns.
Oset setting is incorrect.
Dull blade or blade holder isn’t
secured properly in slot.
Replace the cutting strip or
decrease the blade depth.
Clean the inside of the blade holder by
coating the blade with WD40 and moving
it in and out of the blade holder. Clean o
any debris that comes out. Replacement
blade holder may be needed.
Change the oset setting.
RAISE OFFSET LOWER OFFSET
Replace blade, check the
blade force, and secure the
blade holder.
Common Cutting Issues

24 25
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425.481.3555
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22 23
Cut & Place Vinyl Like A Pro
www.uscutter.com
425.481.3555
GET EVERYTHING FOR YOUR
VINYL CUTTING NEEDS
Digital Printed
Graphics
Indoor Wall
Vinyl
Heat Press
Outdoor
Signage
Stencils &
Masks
You also need the right
media, blade, and
application tape to
ensure a professional job.
A good VINYL CUTTER
is just the start...
Main Tape
GFX-341
45°
Blade
45°
Blade
Oracal 3951 & 3651
HP Gloss & Matte
Glass Application
45°
Blade
Oracal 8300, 8500,
8510, & 8800
Main Tape
GXF-775 or
R-Tape AT65
Main Tape
GXP750 or
Oratape HT55
Oracal 631 or
GreenStar Wall Vinyl
30° Blade
(general)
60° Blade
(glitter/flock)
EasyWeed
(standard fabrics)
EasyWeed Extra
(nylons/water resistant)
R-Tape
4076RLA 60° Blade
Anchor BlastLite
Oramask
GreenStar
Layflat Classic or
Main Tape
GXF-775
45° Blade
(general)
60° Blade
(reflective)
Oracal 651 or GreenStar
Intermediate (calendered)
for short term
Oracal 751 or 951 (cast)
for long term
CUT & PLACE VINYL LIKE A PRO
45°
MEDIA
CARRIER
MEDIA
CARRIER
MEDIA
CARRIER
60
MEDIA
CARRIER
MEDIA
CARRIER
MEDIA
CARRIER
MEDIA
CARRIER
60
The “workhorse blade” good
for most vinyl materials.
30°
MEDIA
CARRIER
MEDIA
CARRIER
MEDIA
CARRIER
MEDIA
CARRIER
60
60°
MEDIA
MEDIA
CARRIER
MEDIA
CARRIER
MEDIA
CARRIER
60
For use on thicker materials
and for highly detailed cuts.
Use sparingly to preserve
sharpness.
Best for thin materials
such as heat press vinyl.
Your blade depth should be set so
that the tip of the blade protrudes
about the distance of the width of
a credit card from the opening of
the blade holder. Test for the proper
depth setting by holding the blade
holder and manually trying to cut
through two sheets of paper. You
should only be able to cut
through the top sheet.
Maintenance For Your Cutter
Cutting Strips for your vinyl cutter will need
to be replaced periodically - we recommend it
be done every six months if you use your vinyl
cutter continuously.
You might need to change out your Cutting
Strips sooner if you start experiencing an uneven
depth of cut, or your material is peeling up even
on slow speeds.
To replace your Cutting Strip:
• USCutter stocks replacement
cutting strips. Go to
USCUTTER.com and search using
the keyword: Cutting Strip.
• Use a weeding tool or other pointed
tool to pry up the existing strip.
(For best results, start at either end
of the strip.)
• Lay replacement into the channel
and use a heat gun or hair dryer to
heat the strip up as you squeeegee it
into place.
• Use a knife to trim the ends of the
strip so that it ts in the channel.
Cutting Blades wear out with use and the
tips of the blades can snap just like the point of
a sharp pencil. (is is particularly true of the
60 degree blade.) You should also periodically
visibly inspect your blades and if you see visible
chips in the edge it’s best to replace the blade
with a new one. (is is also a good time to wipe
away any vinyl debris that has built up inside the
blade holder.)
You might also consider the replacement of your
blade if you develop problems weeding or other-
wise experience problems with cut quality.
Refer to the manual section on Blade
Set-up for instructions on how to install re-
placement blades and remember to dispose of
your old blade safely by putting it in an alumi-
num can or other closed hard container.

WE RECOMMEND USAGE OF THE FOLLOWING VINYL
WITH YOUR NEW SC CUTTER:
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or by any means, including photocopying, recording, or other electronic or mechanical methods, without
the prior written permission of the publisher, except in the case of brief quotations embodied in critical
reviews and certain other noncommercial uses permitted by copyright law. For permission requests,
write to USCutter, 7945 NE 65th St., Suite 200, Redmond, WA 98052
Copyright © 2015 USCutter
6/27/2016