Winget 200T Instruction manual

WORKSHOP MANUAL
200T
MIXER
WINGET LIMITED
PO BOX 41
EDGEFOLD INDUSTRIAL ESTATE
PLODDER LANE
BOLTON
LANCS
BL4 OLR
Tel:- ++ 44 (0) 1204 854650
[email protected]
[email protected]
www.winget.co.uk
FROM 2011
SERIAL No 1333 ONWARDS
ISSUE 72018

WORKSHOP MANUAL
Winget Hand Fed Mixers
Models: 200T
From 2011
CONTENTS
Section 1 Introduction
Section 2 Repair and Service Procedures
Section 3 General Arrangement Dimensions
Section 4 Service Schedules
Section 5 Lubrication Diagram
Section 6 Wiring Diagrams
Section 7 Noise Levels
Section 8 Special Tools
Section 9 Parts Listings

WORKSHOP MANUAL
Winget Hand Fed Mixers
Models: 200T
From 2011
Introduction
It is assumed that Personnel involved in either the Assembly or repair of Winget Mixers
will be familiar with the product, either through the operation of, or previous repair and
maintenance work. It is not intended to be used by Personnel who are neither familiar
with the product or mechanically inexperienced.
It is also assumed that personnel are aware of the Health and Safety Regulations, which
should be applied to all working practices, but the following should act as a reminder.
Ensure all work tools are in good condition.
Always wear Safety Spectacles when using soft or hard faced hammers, chisels or
when using air tools. Wear safety spectacles or goggles when cleaning hardened
concrete or mortar off components.
Do not misuse Air Lines and be aware of the damage compressed air can cause if
misused.
Always make sure lifting equipment is in good condition and the Safe Working Loads
exceed the weights of the components to be lifted.
Oils, fuels, silicone sealer and open gear lubricants can cause skin diseases if allowed
to contaminate the skin. Always apply barrier creams, wear suitable protective clothing
or when contamination is unavoidable clean the area with soap and water as soon as
possible. Do not use thinners or other solvents to clean skin.
Health and Safety is a matter of common sense. If common sense is applied correctly
Health and Safety can be improved upon and the risk of accidents reduced.
L/H and R/H views are taken when standing directly behind and facing the engine
housing.
Whilst every effort is made to ensure the contents of this manual are accurate, Winget
Limited accept no responsibility for errors or omissions and reserve the right to alter
specification without prior notification and certain sections may then no longer apply.

WORKSHOP MANUAL
Winget Hand Fed Mixers
Models: 200T
From 2011
Repair & Maintenance Procedures
The following procedures are based in part on the procedures issued to Distributors and
the instructions should be used in conjunction with the appropriate Parts and Operators
Manual or Parts CD. Reference should also be made to the Parts Listings in Section 9
for a guide to the correct sequence for assembling components and sub assemblies.
1) Clean any paint or debris from bores and shaft surfaces. Threaded holes should
preferably be cleaned out using the correct sized tap
2) All sealed for life bearings should be packed with a good quality grease
prior to installation. Carefully remove a seal, pack the bearing with grease and
refit the seal ensuring it is correctly seated.

WORKSHOP MANUAL
Winget Hand Fed Mixers
Models: 200T
From 2011
Lifting Points
Lifting points capable of supporting the weight of the mixer are incorporated into the
trunnion below the drum.
This lifting points are highlighted with an ISO ‘Hook’ symbol adjacent to the point and to
use them it is necessary to rotate the drum and trunnion through 180o and to lock in
position using the locking plunger at the tiltwheel.
Solid Rubber Wheel Replacement.
The rubber or steel wheels are secured to the axle stub shafts using a flat washer and
split pin. To replace a wheel jack up and support the axle adjacent to the stub shaft,
bend back the split pin, close and remove, slide off the washer followed by the wheel.
Reverse the procedure to replace a wheel not forgetting to lubricate the stub shaft and
bore of the wheel with grease prior to assembly and to fit a new split pin.
Front Axle Removal.
Using suitable lifting equipment lift and support the mainframe.
The front axle is retained in the front leg of the mainframe via a spirol pin. Before
removing the axle it is advisable to reduce the weight by first removing the wheels and
drawbar as described above and below. Support the axle and using a suitable drift and
hammer knock the spirol pin through the axle pivot, remove the axle support and
manoeuvre the axle clear of the front leg. Reverse the procedure to refit not forgetting to
coat the axle pivot pin with anti-seize compound and fit new split pins to the wheels.
Lower the mainframe and allow to stand back on the wheels, remove the lifting
equipment.
Rear Axle.
The Rear axle is a welded component of the mainframe and cannot be removed.
Drawbar-Standard
The standard drawbar is attached to the front axle via two split pins and flat washers to
remove simply bend back the and close the split pins and remove. Slide off the flat
washers and lift the drawbar clear. Reverse the procedure to refit, not forgetting to fit
new split pins.

WORKSHOP MANUAL
Winget Hand Fed Mixers
Models: 200T
From 2011
Drum Removal
Attach suitable lifting equipment through the drum blades. Knock back the tabs on the
tabwasher securing the drum shaft setscrews below the trunnion. Remove the setscrews
and washers securing the shaft and flange. With the drum mouth upright
lift the drum assembly clear of the trunnion. It may be necessary to rock the trunnion via
the tiltwheel to free the drum shaft from the trunnion. Take care as the drum shaft may
suddenly release and come free allowing the drum to move without warning.
In exceptional circumstances it may be necessary to use a Two-Leg Puller/Pusher Tool
to assist in pushing the Drum Shaft through the Trunnion. When using such tools follow
the manufacturers instructions and take care as the drum shaft may suddenly release
allowing the drum to move without warning.
Replacement of Drum Shaft, Bevel Gear and Bearings
Remove the drum as described previously and turn upside down so that the assembly
stands on the open mouth of the drum. Before removing the bevel gear from the drum
base use suitably sized circlip pliers and remove the large circlip retaining the lower
shaft bearing into the gear.
Remove the setscrews securing the bevel gear and shaft assembly to the drum base,
use two of the setscrews as jacking as screws utilising the threaded holes in the bevel
gear and jack the assembly out of the base.
With the assistance of suitable lifting equipment lift the assembly onto a suitable
supporting surface and using a soft faced hammer or mallet knock the shaft back
through the bevel gear. Support the shaft in a suitable soft jawed vice and remove the
smaller circlip from the end of the shaft retaining the upper drum bearing, using a
suitable drift or puller remove both bearings from the shaft. Clean all the components.
Before fitting new bearings carefully remove the seals from the bearings and pack the
bearings with good quality grease, refit the seals, do not completely fill the bearings with
grease leave some room for expansion as the grease warms up in service.
Fit the new bearings to the shaft and retain the upper smaller bearing using a new
circlip. Clean out the drum centre shaft housing and smear a little anti-seize compound
round the circumference of the upper bearing seat within the housing.
Place the bevel gear on the drum base and loosely retain with the setscrews and
washers, apply threadlock to the screw threads before inserting, smear a little anti-seize
compound round the circumference of the lower bearing seat in the bevel gear.
Lower the shaft through the bevel gear and using a suitable mallet or soft faced hammer
knock the shaft fully home, fit the large retaining circlip and fully tighten the setscrews.

WORKSHOP MANUAL
Winget Hand Fed Mixers
Models: 200T
From 2011
Once the setscrews are tight it may be necessary to give the shaft end a sharp tap to
fully seat the bearings. Coat the teeth of the bevel gear with an open gear lubricant
Drum Cone Replacement.
Clean hardened concrete or mortar from around the drum clip and the bolts securing the
drum blades. Remove the bolts securing the blades to the drum cone and slacken the
bolts through the base. Due to the corrosive action of concrete and
mortar it may be necessary to cut through the old bolts using oxy-acetylene equipment.
Be aware that hot concrete can “explode” violently spitting concrete - wear suitable eye
protection and protective clothing.
Cut through the drum clip and remove. Lift off the drum cone using suitable lifting
equipment. If necessary clean out the drum base. Clean any old silicone sealer and
hardened concrete from around the drum flange.
Run a generous bead of silicone sealer around the flange of the drum base and inside
the new drum clip. Leave the last 150mm of each end of the clip free from sealer.
Using suitable lifting equipment lift the new drum cone in place lining up the holes in the
cone with those in the blades. Loosely refit in the bolts, nuts and washers. Fit the new
drum clip around the circumference of the two halves of the drum tapping in place over
the flanges using a soft faced hammer.
Attach the special drum clip tool placing the pins on the tool into the holes in each end of
the clip.
Using a suitable spanner tighten the drum clip to the drum until it is secure. Do not
overtighten the clip or the pins in each end of the tool will shear off. Slip the bridge
piece over the remaining gap in the drum clip and weld in place. Remove the tool. Fully
tighten the drum blades.
Run the mixer, tilting the drum via the tiltwheel making sure that the drum, clip or bridge
piece do not foul the mainframe or guards.
Stop the engine, clean any excess silicone off the drum or clip.
Drum Blade Replacement
It is unlikely that drum blades will require replacement separately to the drum cone.
However in the event that it should prove necessary, clean any hardened concrete or
mortar from around the bolts securing the blades. Remove the bolts and blades. Due to
the corrosive action of concrete and mortar it may be necessary to cut through the old
bolts using oxy-acetylene equipment. Be aware that hot concrete can “explode” violently
spitting concrete - wear suitable eye protection and protective clothing.

200T DRUM CLIP FIXING
AFTER COATING THE MATING FACES OF THE DRUM BASE AND CONE WITH SILICONE SEALER FIT THE CLIP AROUND THE DRUM AS SHOWN. RUN A BEAD OF SEALER INSIDE THE DRUM CLIP PRIOR TO FITMENT LEAVING APPROXIMATELY 6’’ (I50mm) EACH END OF THE CLIP CLEAR OF SEALER. CLAMP THE CLIP IN PLACE USING THE SPECIAL TOOL NUMBER 513204000. FIT THE BRIDGE PIECE IN PLACE OVER THE GAP LEFT IN THE CLIP AND WELD IN PLACE

WORKSHOP MANUAL
Winget Hand Fed Mixers
Models: 200T
From 2011
Attach the new blades into the drum assembly finger tighten the bolts until all the bolts
are in place. Tighten the bolts.
The bolts should go into the drum from the outside and only round or dome headed bolts
should be used.
Bevel Gear Guard Replacement
Remove the drum assembly as previously described. Remove the four setscrews, nuts,
etc. holding the guard in place. Fit the new guard tighten the setscrews. Replace the
drum assembly as described in the following paragraph.
Refitting Drum Assembly
Using suitable lifting equipment lift the drum assembly, check the drum shaft is clean and
referring to the Drum Adjustment illustration coat the drum shaft (J) and trunnion with anti-
seize compound at (A). Coat the bevel gears with an open gear lubricant.
Turn the drum shaft so the threaded holes in the base of the shaft are at 90 degrees to
those in the trunnion base blocks.
Position the drum over the trunnion and lower into place making sure the bevel gear and
pinion are fully in mesh and the drum is fully seated down.
Apply anti-seize compound to the drum shaft setscrews and secure the flange to the
drum shaft not forgetting the tabwasher. Using the flange turn the drum shaft until the
remaining holes in the flange align with the holes in the base block.
Refer to the Drum Adjustment illustration and check the number of flat washers required
to fill the gap(G) between the flange and base block. Remove one washer from each
side. Apply anti-seize compound to the setscrews (H) and pass the setscrews through
the flange and flat washers, fully tighten the setscrews into the trunnion.
Check for free play between the drum bevel gear and bevel pinion (C) by gently
rocking the drum (approximately 3mm is acceptable). The backlash can be fine tuned
using a combination of the varying thickness of adjusting washers and shims. The
drum should rotate quietly, smoothly and with no vibration or undue noise. Remove the
lifting equipment.
Tilting Handwheel and Locking Plunger
The tilting wheel is secured to the tilting pinion via a steel pin and an M10 grubscrew.
With the drum in the vertical position knock out the steel pin, slacken the grubscrew and
remove the tilting wheel.
The locking plunger is held in place in the tilting wheel by a second smaller spiral pin.
Knock out this pin and remove the locking plunger and spring.

200T DRUM ADJUSTMENT

WORKSHOP MANUAL
Winget Hand Fed Mixers
Models: 200T
From 2011
Re-assemble in the reverse order coating the locking plunger and pinion shaft with
copperslip. Lubricate the felt seal behind the tilting wheel with oil.
Tilting Bracket
With the drum in the vertical position, place temporary supports between the mainframe
and trunnion to support the trunnion when the tilting bracket is removed.
Remove the upper tiling gear guard. Remove the four socket headed capscrews
securing the tilting bracket taking care not to drop the retaining bars on the inside of the
mainframe front leg. Pull off the tilting bracket assembly. Check the felt seal in the tilting
gear replace and/or lubricate as required.
Remove the tilting wheel as previously described. With the tilting wheel removed
withdraw the pinion out of the bracket. Check the condition of the bushes and felt seals.
Replace and/or lubricate as required. The stub shaft is secured into the tilting bracket
via a spiral pin and can be removed simply by knocking out the pin.
Reassemble the tilting bracket in reverse order lubricating bushes and felt seals with
engine oil. Coat shafts, pinions and plungers with copperslip.
When refitting the tilting bracket assembly to the mixer, engage and lock the plunger into
the middle of the three bushed blind holes. Locate the stub shaft into the tilting gear and
ensuring that the tilting pinion correctly meshes with the tilting gear push the assembly
fully home. Coat the threads on the four capscrews with thread lock, insert through the
tilting bracket, mainframe and into the retaining bars which should be held in position
until the capscrews are engaged. Tighten the capscrews. Check that with the drum
vertical that the cross ties on the tilting wheel are horizontal. Refit the upper tilting gear
guard. Remove the temporary supports.
Tilting Gear and Lower Guard
Remove the tilting bracket as described previously. Undo and remove the four
setscrews securing the guard to the mainframe. Undo and remove the four nyloc nuts
and flat washers holding the gear to the trunnion. Push the bolts back through the gear,
slide the gear forward and lift clear of the mainframe. Lift off the lower guard.
Reassemble in reverse order not forgetting to put the guard behind the gear before
assembling the gear. Lubricate the felt seal.
Refit the tilting bracket as previously described.
Countershaft/Bevel Pinion Drive Chain.
Remove the chain guard from the rear of the trunnion. Crank the engine over until the
chain split link is visible. Disconnect the split link, hook the new chain loosely onto the

WORKSHOP MANUAL
Winget Hand Fed Mixers
Models: 200T
From 2011
split link slowly crank the engine and pull the new chain in place round the countershaft
sprocket. Remove the old chain and link. Loop the new chain round the sprocket in the
bevel pinion shaft and fit the new split link.
The open end of the split end should point away from the normal direction of rotation,
which is anti-clockwise when looking directly at the chain. Check and adjust the chain
tension. (See Bevel Pinion Shaft and Housing). Refit the chain guard.
Bevel Pinion Shaft and Housing
Follow the procedures described earlier and remove the drum, bevel gear guard and
disconnect the countershaft bevel pinion drive chain.
Rotate the trunnion until it reaches its highest point and lock in place. Remove the gib
head key securing the sprocket to the bevel pinion shaft. Remove the bevel pinion
guard, take care not to lose the spacer, release the tabwashers and remove the
setscrews, packers and shims securing the bevel pinion housing. At this point the bevel
pinion housing should be supported by a second pair of hands, strapped or supported in
some other manner to prevent it dropping down sharply and causing damage to the
casting, it will otherwise only be secured by the loose fitting retaining plate and sprocket.
Remove the nuts and washer off the two bolts retaining the bevel pinion housing
adjusting plate. Using a soft faced hammer knock the bevel pinion shaft through the
sprocket until it is possible to remove the sprocket. Remove the bolts through the
retaining plate and lift the bevel pinion housing out of the trunnion.
Clamp the housing in a soft jawed vice and remove the gib head key retaining the bevel
pinion and pull off the bevel pinion.
Remove the circlip from the groove within the housing and using a soft faced hammer
knock the shaft and bearings out of the housing. The bearings can now be removed from
the shaft.
Carefully remove the seals from the bearings and pack the bearings with good quality
grease, refit the seals, do not completely fill the bearings with grease leave some room
for expansion as the grease warms up in service.
To reassemble secure the bevel pinion shaft into a soft jawed vice. Using the correct
size of Bearing tube and a soft faced hammer or suitable drift fit the bearings to the
shaft. Note the larger of the two bearings is fitted to the longer shank of the shaft.
Remove the shaft from the vice and using the vice support the bevel pinion housing.
Using the correct size of bearing tube or suitable drift and the soft faced hammer
knock the shaft fully into the housing. Fit the retaining circlip into the groove within the
housing. Check the shaft turns freely.

WORKSHOP MANUAL
Winget Hand Fed Mixers
Models: 200T
From 2011
Assemble the bevel pinion to the shaft, fitting the gib head key. The pinion is fitted to the
longer shank of the shaft. If correctly assembled the threaded holes in the casting will be
at the same end. Do not at this stage fit the sprocket to the opposite end of the
bevel pinion assembly, as this will prevent re-assembly of the housing back into the
trunnion.
Loosely fit the triangular adjusting plate back into the trunnion, locating the plate on the
peg. Fit the two bolts through the adjusting plate from the rear of the trunnion so that
when assembled the head of the bolts will be sandwiched between the trunnion rear
plate and the bevel pinion shaft drive sprocket.
Work the bevel pinion housing back into the trunnion and through the adjusting plate. As
the shaft protrudes through the rear of the trunnion slide on the sprocket until it is fully
home.
Refit the setscrews, tabwashers, packer and shim set retaining the bevel pinion housing
and finger tighten only.
Fit the gib head key retaining the drive sprocket and refit the drive chain, when
connecting the split link the open end of the link should be fitted so that it points away
from the normal direction of rotation which is anti-clockwise when looking directly at the
chain.
Release the trunnion and turn back to its lowest position.
Refer to the Drum Adjustment illustration. The adjusting plate holding the rear of the
bevel pinion housing(D) is slotted to allow the housing to move up and down enabling
correct adjustment of the chain tension (F). Check and adjust the chain tension and
tighten the bolts holding the adjusting plate. By adding or subtracting shims (E) between
the thick packer and the bevel pinion housing ensure the
housing is horizontal in the Trunnion and square to the rear plate. Re-check the chain
tension and fully tighten the bolts and setscrews securing the bevel pinion housing(D),
knock over the tab washers.
Crank the engine ensuring both the countershaft and bevel pinion turn freely. Coat the
bevel pinion with open gear lubricant and fit the pinion guard. Fit the rear chain guard.
Following the procedures described earlier refit the bevel gear guard and spacer and
drum assembly.
Countershaft, Trunnion Journal and Driven Chainwheel/ ‘V’ Pulley
Although it is recommended that the trunnion is removed completely from the mixer
should the countershaft or trunnion journal require attention it is possible to leave the
trunnion assembly in place provided it is properly supported.

WORKSHOP MANUAL
Winget Hand Fed Mixers
Models: 200T
From 2011
Remove the engine housing lid, top plate, engine housing chain guard and infill plate.
Slacken the two bolts through the bevel pinion housing adjusting plate and the two
setscrews, which secure the casting at the pinion, end to release the tension on the
countershaft chain.
Disconnect the split links retaining both the engine drive and countershaft chains and
remove the chains. On Yanmar electric start diesel mixers the drive is transmitted to the
countershaft by means of a ‘V’ belt in place of the chain.
The ‘V’ belt drive pulley for the Yanmar is retained by means of a taper lock bush.
Withdraw the gib head key retaining the driven chainwheel to the countershaft and pull
off the chainwheel. On Yanmar powered equipment release the taper lock bush and
slide off the pulley assembly and flat washer, remove the parallel key from the
countershaft.
Lock the drum in the vertical position using the handwheel locking plunger and using
suitable lifting equipment, jacks or chocks secure the trunnion to prevent it moving when
the journal is withdrawn.
Remove the two setscrews retaining the journal casting to the mainframe, take the
weight off the trunnion and withdraw the journal from the trunnion.
Support the assembly in a soft jawed vice, remove the circlip retaining the countershaft
sprocket and pull off the sprocket, remove the feather key.
Remove the circlip in front of the bearing and using a soft faced hammer and suitable
drift knock the shaft out of the journal from the opposite end.
Remove the bearings and clean all the components. Carefully remove the seals from the
new bearings and pack the bearings with good quality grease, refit the seals, do not
completely fill the bearings with grease leave some room for expansion as the grease
warms up in service.
Reverse the procedure to re-assemble using a suitable bearing tube or drift to seat the
front bearing into the housing, retain with the circlip. Pass the countershaft (end with
feather key way and circlip groove) through the housing and into the bearing and knock
fully home using a soft faced mallet or hammer. Fit the second bearing over the shaft
and knock fully home using a bearing tube or drift until it contacts the shoulder on the
shaft.
Fit the feather key, slide on the small sprocket and retain with the circlip. Smear a little
grease around the circumference of the trunnion/journal bearing face and in the bore of
the corresponding bearing boss on the trunnion. Slide the journal fully home into the end
of the trunnion and retain using the two setscrews. Remove the chocks, lifting equipment
or jacks and tighten the setscrews fully.

WORKSHOP MANUAL
Winget Hand Fed Mixers
Models: 200T
From 2011
Coat the end of the countershaft with anti-seize compound and slide on the chainwheel,
pushing fully onto the shaft, fit the gib head key. On Yanmar powered
equipment re-assemble the taper lock bush arrangement not forgetting the flat washer
behind the pulley assembly and to fit the parallel into the shaft.
Refit both the countershaft chain and the engine chain/’V’ belt, ensuring that the open
end of the chain split links point away from the normal direction of rotation.
Adjust the countershaft chain tension (refer to the ‘drum adjustment illustration’ and
‘bevel pinion housing’) and tighten the bevel pinion housing, check the engine drive
chain tension or ‘V’ belt pulley tension as described in the relevant engine section also
refer to the parts illustrations at the rear of this manual for further guidance on chain/belt
adjustment.
Fit the infill plate, chain guards and plastic plug, top plate and engine-housing lid and
closing plate. Release the locking plunger and operate the handwheel ensure the
trunnion tilts correctly, start the engine and check the operation of the drum drive, also
check for unusual noises.
Trunnion Removal/Replacement
Remove the drum, engine housing lid, top plate, chain guards and infill plate in the
engine housing. Remove the engine drive chain/ “V” belt. Undo and remove the two bolts
retaining the rear journal. Attach lifting suitable equipment to the trunnion and take the
weight, remove the tilting wheel/tilting bracket assembly as described previously.
Remove the four setscrews washers etc securing the lower tilt gear guard to the front leg
of the mainframe.
Carefully take the weight of the trunnion and lift clear of the mainframe.
Place the trunnion on a suitable surface and remove the bevel pinion housing, rear
journal and tilt gear and guard as previously described.
Reverse the procedure to rebuild the trunnion and refit it into the mixer referring to the
relevant sections to set up bevel pinion, journal, front bearing, drum etc.
Engine LV1/LT1-910 Hand Start
“CE” marked machines are fitted with ‘anti-kick back starting handles’ in order to
comply with local legislation. For information on the starting handles refer to the engine
operators handbook or engine workshop manual.
For details on engine services or overhauls, changing engine oils, filters and bleeding
the fuel system refer to the engine operator’s handbook or engine workshop manual.

WORKSHOP MANUAL
Winget Hand Fed Mixers
Models: 200T
From 2011
Note, the engine is set to run at 1500 rpm and rotates clockwise at the flywheel end.
Drive Sprocket Removal/Replacement
On the LV1/LT1-910 the Sprocket is keyed onto the engine extension shaft and also
held by an M8 grubscrew. Replacement of the sprocket requires removal of the engine.
Remove the engine housing closing plate, engine housing lid, top plate and chain
guards. Disconnect the drive chain. Remove the exhaust pipe, remove the bolts
securing the engine mounting channels to the engine bed. Using suitable lifting
equipment remove the engine taking care not to lose the shims.
Remove the gib head Key and pull off the sprocket. It may help release the key if the
sprocket is knocked backwards on the shaft away from the head of the key. Coat the
shaft and bore of the sprocket with anti-seize compound and slide on the new sprocket
with the boss towards the engine and retain approximately 17mm from the end of the
shaft using the gib head key. Do not at this stage fully fit the key incase the sprocket
needs to be aligned with the countershaft chain wheel when the engine is refitted.
Lift the engine back into the mainframe and align the mounting channels with the holes in
the bed. Insert the bolts but do not fully tighten, refit the shim pack and re-connect the
chain. Check the alignment of the sprockets by moving the sprocket on the shaft as
necessary before fully inserting the gib head key and tightening the grubscrew.
Check and adjust the chain tension by adding or subtracting engine shims. The tension
is correct when the chain deflects approximately 5mm about the centre line of the chain.
The chain tension should be checked midway between the two sprockets. When the
tension is correct fully tighten all the bolts and recheck the chain tension.
A chain running too tight will cause starting problems and the increased loadings will
increase the rate of wear on the chain and sprocket and may also damage the
crankshaft bearings. A chain running too slack may run off the sprocket or chainwheel.
Refit the exhaust pipe, retaining clamps and brackets, refit the engine housing lid, chain
guards not forgetting the polythene plug, top plate and closing plate.
Engine Yanmar L48-ARE SE/L48N5SJ1 Electric Start
There is no difference in build specification between “CE” marked machines intended
for use in the European Union or those intended for export elsewhere. No starting
handles are fitted to the Yanmar engines, instead a recoil rope starter is fitted as an
‘emergency’ back up starting device in the event that the electrical starting system
should fail. Note, starting the engine with the recoil in the absence of the battery or start
key may damage the charging system.

WORKSHOP MANUAL
Winget Hand Fed Mixers
Models: 200T
From 2011
For details on engine services or overhauls, changing engine oils, filters and bleeding
the fuel system refer to the engine operator’s handbook or engine workshop manual.
Note, the ‘high speed’ engine is set to run at 2800 rpm and rotates clockwise at the half
speed (1400) PTO shaft extension.
To prevent the characteristics of chain drives damaging the Yanmar engine which lacks
the heavy flywheel of the slow speed Lister Petter LV1/LT1, the countershaft chainwheel
and engine drive chain are replaced by a “V” belt and “V” drive pulleys.
The engine is also mounted differently in that it is bolted to a height adjustable bedplate
to allow for belt tensioning.
Battery Removal/Replacement
The 12-volt battery is secured on the R/H side of the Yanmar engine within the engine
housing for security. To remove, unbolt and remove the engine housing closing plate.
The battery is retained by a non-conductive clamping block, cover and threaded studs,
the studs pass through the clamp block screw down into and through the engine
mounting plate being retained below the plate with two M6 nuts. Remove the nuts,
unscrew the studs and remove, lift off the cover and clamp block, disconnect the battery
leads and slide out the battery. Reverse the procedure to refit the battery. Take care that
the battery leads do not short out on either the engine or surrounding metal work.
Drive Pulley Removal/Replacement
The drive pulley is keyed onto the engine extension shaft and also held by a small
grubscrew through the pulley shank. An M8 setscrew and flat washer is also screwed
into the end of the engine extension shaft to retain the pulley. Replacement requires the
removal of the engine.
Undo the knot in the recoil rope retaining the handle where it passes through the side of
the engine housing, do not release the rope but remove the handle and pass the rope
back through into the housing. Tie a loose knot in the rope to prevent it being pulled
inside the recoil housing under spring tension.
Alternatively the recoil can be removed from the engine and allowed to hang inside the
engine housing. To remove the recoil mark its position on the flywheel housing and
remove the three small screws which retain the assembly in place.
Remove the engine housing closing plate, engine housing lid, top plate and chain /belt
guards. Remove the ‘V’ belt and unbolt the electrical panel from the side of the
mainframe, disconnect the battery. Remove the bolts securing the engine to the
mounting plate and carefully lift the engine out of the housing. Turn the engine
through 1800to access the drive pulley and rest the engine back on the mounting plate
taking care it does not topple off.

WORKSHOP MANUAL
Winget Hand Fed Mixers
Models: 200T
From 2011
Slacken the grubscrew and remove the setscrew and washer, pull off the pulley, it may
be necessary to use a small two legged puller if the pulley has been attached for some
time.
Coat the bore of the pulley and the extension shaft with anti-seize compound and slide
the pulley onto the shaft fully home up to the shoulder, fit the key, grubscrew, setscrew
and washer.
Lift the engine back into the mainframe and secure to the bed. Insert the bolts but do not
fully tighten and refit the ‘V’ belt check the belt alignment and tighten the engine retaining
bolts.
Check and adjust the belt tension by means of the long threaded adjusting screws, refer
to the illustrated parts pages for further information on belt tension. The “V” Belt needs to
be fairly tight when correctly adjusted to prevent slippage. Correct adjustment can be
obtained using a weight of approximately 18Kg placed on the engine bed in place of the
battery. When correctly adjusted firm pressure is required to deflect the belt, the tension
should be checked midway between the two pulleys. Once the tension is correct fully
tighten all fixings and recheck the tension.
A belt running too tight will cause starting problems and the increased loadings will
increase the rate of wear on the belt causing it to stretch prematurely and may also
damage the shaft bearings. A belt running too slack will slip under load with the result
that the drum will cease to revolve.
Reconnect the battery and electric start panel, ensuring the wiring is secured and will not
chafe through.
Refit the recoil assembly or rope handle, engine housing lid, chain/belt guards not
forgetting the polythene plug, top plate and closing plate.

HANDFED MIXERS YANMAR L48 TYPE D THROTTLE
WITH THE REGULATOR HANDLE IN THE “STOP “ POSITION
REMOVE THE CENTRE SECURING BOLT AND THE
LOCKING SETSCREW FROM THE SLOT ADJACENT TO THE
STOP LEVER.
CAREFULLY LIFT THE THROTTLE CONTROL ASSEMBLY
AWAY FROM THE ENGINE SUFFICIENTLY TO GAIN
ACCESS TO THE GOVERNOR SPRING.
MOVE THE UPPER HOOK ON THE GOVERNOR SPRING
INTO THE No3 HOLE POSITION IN THE REGULATOR
HANDLE. (SEE DRAWING OPPOSITE ) LEAVE THE LOWER
HOOK IN THE SECOND INNER HOLE IN THE GOVERNOR
LEVER. REFIT THE THROTTLE CONTROL ASSEMBLY TO
THE ENGINE ENSURING THE SPRINGS DO NOT BECOME
DETACHED. ROTATE THE CONTROL ASSEMBLY IN THE
DIRECTION OF THE ARROW UNTIL THE LOCKING SCREW
IS AT THE BOTTOM OF THE SLOT BEFORE TIGHTENING UP
BOTH SCREWS. THE ENGINE SPEED SHOULD NOW BE
SET TO APPROX 2800RPM AND THE DRUM WILL ROTATE
AT APPROXIMATELY 22-23 RPM.
ENGINE THROTTLE CONTROL USED ON LATER
L48 ENGINES FITTED TO 100T, 150T, 175T & 200T
HANDFED MIXERS
NOTE: SOME GOVERNOR LEVERS MAY ONLY
HAVE TWO HOLES NOT THREE AS ILLUSTRATED

WORKSHOP MANUAL
200T
SECTION 3
GENERAL ARRANGEMENT
DIMENSIONS