Winget 200T User manual

WORKSHOP MANUAL
200T
MIXER
WINGET LIMITED
PO BOX41
EDGEFOLD INDUSTRIAL ESTATE
PLODDER LANE
BOLTON
LANCS
BL4 OLR
Tel:- ++ 44 (0) 1204 854650
[email protected]
[email protected]
www.winget.co.uk
FROM 1998
ISSUE 62018

WORKSHOP MANUAL
Winget Hand Fed Mixers
Models: 200T
From 1998
CONTENTS
Section 1 Introduction
Section 2 Repair and Service Procedures
Section 3 General Arrangement Dimensions
Section 4 Service Schedules
Section 5 Lubrication Diagram
Section 6 Wiring Diagrams
Section 7 Noise Levels
Section 8 Special Tools
Section 9 Parts Listings

WORKSHOP MANUAL
200T
SECTION 1
INTRODUCTION

WORKSHOP MANUAL
Winget Hand Fed Mixers
Models: 200T
From 1998
Introduction
It is assumed that Personnel involved in either the Assembly or repair of Winget
Mixers will be familiar with the product, either through the operation of, or previous
repair and maintenance work. It is not intended to be used by Personnel who are
neither familiar with the product or mechanically inexperienced.
It is also assumed that personnel are aware of the Health and Safety Regulations,
which should be applied to all working practices, but the following should act as a
reminder.
Ensure all work tools are in good condition.
Always wear Safety Spectacles when using Soft or Hard Faced Hammers, Chisels or
when using Air Tools. Wear Safety Spectacles when cleaning Hardened Concrete or
Mortar off components.
Do not misuse Air Lines and be aware of the damage Compressed Air can cause if
misused.
Always make sure Lifting Equipment is in good condition and the Safe Working
Loads exceed the weights of the components to be lifted.
Oils, Fuels, Silicone Sealer and Open Gear Lubricants can cause skin diseases if
allowed to contaminate the skin. Always apply barrier creams, wear suitable
protective clothing or when contamination is unavoidable clean the area with soap
and water as soon as possible. Do not use thinners or other solvents to clean skin.
Health and Safety is a matter of common sense. If common sense is applied
correctly Health and Safety can be improved upon and the risk of accidents reduced.
L/H and R/H views are taken when standing directly behind and facing the engine
housing.
Whilst every effort is made to ensure the contents of this manual are accurate,
Winget Limited accept no responsibility for errors or omissions and reserve the right
to alter specification without prior notification and certain sections may then no longer
apply.

WORKSHOP MANUAL
200T
SECTION 2
REPAIR & SERVICE
PROCEDURES

WORKSHOP MANUAL
Winget Hand Fed Mixers
Models: 200T
From 1998
Repair & Maintenance Procedures
The following procedures are based in part on the procedures issued to Distributors
and the instructions should be used in conjunction with the appropriate Parts and
Operators Manual or Parts Microfiche. Reference should also be made to the Parts
Listings in Section 9 for a guide to the correct sequence for assembling components
and sub assemblies.
1) Clean any paint or debris from bores and shaft surfaces. Threaded holes
should preferably be cleaned out using the correct tap
2) All sealed for life bearings should be packed with a good quality grease prior
to installation. Carefully remove a seal, pack the bearing with grease and refit
the seal ensuring it is correctly seated.
3) Apart from installing the electric motor, mounting brackets and conduit as
described in this manual under the heading ‘240 volt single ph Electric Motor,’
all wiring and other work concerned with the installation of 240 volt
components and supply should be left to a suitably qualified electrician, who is
conversant with single ph 240 volt electric circuits.

WORKSHOP MANUAL
Winget Hand Fed Mixers
Models: 200T
From 1998
Lifting Points
A lifting point capable of supporting the weight of the mixer is incorporated into the
rear leg of the mainframe.
This lifting point is highlighted with an ISO ‘Hook’ symbol adjacent to the point.
On Military/Nato mixers the lifting point will also be painted white.
Solid Rubber/Steel Wheel Replacement.
The rubber or steel wheels are secured to the axle stub shafts using a collar retained
via a long bolt and binx nut. To replace a wheel jack up and support the axle
adjacent to the stub shaft, undo and remove the retaining bolt slide off the collar
followed by the wheel. Reverse the procedure to replace a wheel not forgetting to
lubricate the stub shaft and bore of the wheel with grease prior to assembly.
Front Axle Removal.
Using suitable lifting equipment lift and support the mainframe. The Rear axle is a
welded component of the mainframe and cannot be removed.
The front axle is retained via a pivot pin, washers and split pins, to remove straighten
the split pins and remove from the pivot pin. Using a suitable drift and hammer knock
the pivot pin up through the axle and manoeuvre the axle clear. Reverse the
procedure to refit not forgetting to coat the pivot pin with anti-seize compound and fit
new split pins.
Lower the mainframe and allow to stand back on the wheels, remove the lifting
equipment.
Drawbar-Standard
The standard drawbar is attached to the front axle via two bolts, flat washers and
binx nuts, to remove simply undo and remove the bolts and lift the drawbar clear.
Reverse the procedure to refit.
Drum Removal
Attach suitable lifting equipment through the drum blades. Knock back the tabs on
the tabwasher securing the drum shaft setscrews below the trunnion. Remove the
setscrews and washers securing the shaft and flange. With the drum mouth upright
lift the drum assembly clear of the trunnion. It may be necessary to rock the trunnion
via the tiltwheel to free the drum shaft.
In exceptional circumstances it may be necessary to use a Two-Leg Puller/Pusher
Tool to assist in pushing the Drum Shaft through the Trunnion. When using such
tools follow the manufacturers instructions.

WORKSHOP MANUAL
Winget Hand Fed Mixers
Models: 200T
From 1998
Replacement of Drum Shaft, Bevel Gear and Bearings
Remove the drum as described previously and turn upside down so that the
assembly stands on the open mouth of the drum. Before removing the bevel gear
from the drum base use suitably sized circlip pliers and remove the large circlip
retaining the lower shaft bearing into the gear.
Remove the setscrews securing the bevel gear and shaft assembly to the drum
base, use two of the setscrews as jacking as screws utilising the threaded holes in
the bevel gear and jack the assembly out of the base.
With the assistance of suitable lifting equipment lift the assembly onto a suitable
supporting surface and using a soft faced hammer or mallet knock the shaft back
through the bevel gear. Support the shaft in a suitable soft jawed vice and remove
the smaller circlip from the end of the shaft retaining the upper drum bearing, using a
suitable drift or puller remove both bearings from the shaft. Clean all the
components.
Before fitting new bearings carefully remove the seals from the bearings and pack
the bearings with good quality grease, refit the seals, do not completely fill the
bearings with grease leave some room for expansion as the grease warms up in
service.
Fit the new bearings to the shaft and retain the upper smaller bearing using a new
circlip. Clean out the drum centre shaft housing and smear a little anti-seize
compound round the circumference of the upper bearing seat within the housing.
Place the bevel gear on the drum base and loosely retain with the setscrews and
washers, apply threadlock to the screw threads before inserting, smear a little anti-
seize compound round the circumference of the lower bearing seat in the bevel gear.
Lower the shaft through the bevel gear and using a suitable mallet or softfaced
hammer knock the shaft fully home, fit the large retaining circlip and finger tighten
the setscrews. Check the gap between the gear and drum base, using a
combination of the 2.00, 1.00 & 0.5mm shims pack the gap in 6/8 positions around
the circumference of the gear. Tighten the retaining screws. Seal around the
circumference of the gear using a suitable sealer. (Once the setscrews are tight it
may be necessary to give the end of the shaft a sharp tap with a soft faced mallet to
seat the bearings)
Drum Cone Replacement.
Clean hardened concrete or mortar from around the drum clip and the bolts securing
the drum blades. Remove the bolts securing the blades to the drum cone and
slacken the bolts through the base. Due to the corrosive action of concrete and
mortar it may be necessary to cut through the old bolts using oxy-acetylene
equipment. Be aware that hot concrete can “explode” violently spitting concrete -
wear suitable eye protection and protective clothing.

200T DRUM CLIP FIXING
AFTER COATING THE MATING FACES OF THE DRUM
BASE AND CONE WITH SILICONE SEALER FIT THE
CLIP AROUND THE DRUM AS SHOWN. RUN A BEAD
OF SEALER INSIDE THE DRUM CLIP PRIOR TO
FITMENT LEAVING APPROXIMATELY 6’’ (I50mm)
EACH END OF THE CLIP CLEAR OF SEALER. CLAMP
THE CLIP IN PLACE USING THE SPECIAL TOOL
NUMBER 513204000. FIT THE BRIDGE PIECE IN
PLACE OVER THE GAP LEFT IN THE CLIP AND WELD
IN PLACE

WORKSHOP MANUAL
Winget Hand Fed Mixers
Models: 200T
From 1998
Cut through the drum clip and remove. Lift off the drum cone. If necessary clean out
the drum base. Clean any old silicone sealer and hardened concrete from around the
drum flange.
Run a generous bead of silicone sealer around the flange of the drum base and
inside the new drum clip. Leave the last 150mm of each end of the clip free from
sealer.
Using suitable lifting equipment lift the new drum cone in place lining up the holes in
the cone with those in the blades. Loosely refit in the bolts, nuts and washers. Fit
the new drum clip around the circumference of the two halves of the drum tapping in
place over the flanges using a soft faced hammer.
Attach the special drum clip tool placing the pins on the tool into the holes in each
end of the clip.
Using a suitable spanner tighten the drum clip to the drum until it is secure. Do not
overtighten the clip or the pins in each end of the tool will shear off. Slip the bridge
piece over the remaining gap in the drum clip and weld in place. Remove the tool.
Fully tighten the drum blades.
Run the mixer, tilting the drum via the tiltwheel making sure that the drum, clip or
bridge piece do not foul the mainframe or guards.
Stop the engine, clean any excess silicone off the drum or clip.
Drum Blade Replacement
It is unlikely that drum blades will require replacement separately to the drum cone.
However in the event that it should prove necessary, clean any hardened concrete or
mortar from around the bolts securing the blades. Remove the bolts and blades. Due
to the corrosive action of concrete and mortar it may be necessary to cut through the
old bolts using oxy-acetylene equipment. Be aware that hot concrete can “explode”
violently spitting concrete - wear suitable eye protection and protective clothing.
Attach the new blades into the drum assembly finger tighten the bolts until all the
bolts are in place. Tighten the bolts.
The bolts should go into the drum from the outside and only round or dome headed
bolts should be used.
Bevel Gear Guard Replacement
Remove the drum assembly as previously described. Remove the four setscrews,
nuts, etc. holding the guard in place. Fit the new guard tighten the setscrews.
Replace the drum assembly as described in the following paragragh.

WORKSHOP MANUAL
Winget Hand Fed Mixers
Models: 200T
From 1998
Refitting Drum Assembly
Using suitable lifting equipment lift the drum assembly, check the drum shaft is clean
and referring to the Drum Adjustment illustration coat the drum shaft (J) and trunnion
with anti-seize compound at (A).
Turn the drum shaft so the threaded holes in the base of the shaft are at 90 degrees
to those in the trunnion base blocks.
Position the drum over the trunnion and lower into place making sure the bevel gear
and pinion are fully in mesh and the drum is fully seated down.
Apply anti-seize compound to the drum shaft setscrews and secure the flange to the
drum shaft not forgetting the tabwasher. Using the flange turn the drum shaft until
the remaining holes in the flange align with the holes in the base block.
Refer to the Drum Adjustment illustration and check the number of flat washers
required to fill the gap (G) between the flange and base block. Remove one washer
from each side. Apply anti-seize compound to the setscrews (H) and pass the
setscrews through the flange and flat washers, fully tighten the setscrews into the
trunnion.
Check for free play between the drum bevel gear and bevel pinion (C) by
gently rocking the drum (approximately 3mm is acceptable). By using a
combination of the varying thickness of washers and shims it is possible to fine
tune the backlash. Remove the lifting equipment.
Tilting Handwheel and Locking Plunger
The tilting handwheel wheel is secured to the tilting pinion via a feather key and M10
grubscrew. With the drum in the vertical position slacken and remove the grub
screw, pull off the handwheel. Note on mixers, which have been in service for some
time it may be necessary to use a suitable puller on the handwheel.
The locking Plunger is held in place in the Tilting Wheel by a small spiral pin. Knock
out thispin and remove the locking plunger.Later mixers are fitted with a spring.
Re-assemble in the reverse order coating the locking plunger and pinion shaft with
anti-seize compound.
Tilting Bracket and Pinion
With the Drum in the vertical position remove the lower tilting pinion guard. Remove
the four setscrews securing the tilting bracket taking care not to drop the retaining
plate on the inside of the mainframe front leg. Lift the pinion teeth clear of the tilting
chain, remove the inner retaining bracket and lift out the tilting bracket assembly.
Remove the handwheel as described above, remove the feather key and using a soft
faced hammer knock the tilting shaft and pinion out of the bracket. Check the

200T DRUM ADJUSTMENT

WORKSHOP MANUAL
Winget Hand Fed Mixers
Models: 200T
From 1998
condition of the bushes and replace and/or lubricate as required. Note, very
occasionally new bushes will require reaming to size.
Reassemble the tilting bracket in reverse order lubricating bushes with engine oil.
Coat shafts, pinions and plungers with anti-seize compound.
When refitting the tilting bracket assembly to the mixer engage and lock the plunger
into the lower single hole in the bracket whilst ensuring the drum is still vertical.
Pass the assembly through the front leg of the mainframe, slip the retaining plate
over the bracket before engaging the pinion into the tilting chain.
Align the bracket and inner retaining plate with the slots in the front leg and insert the
setscrews and washers. Finger tighten the setscrews to hold the bracket in place and
slide the assembly in the slots to correctly tension the tilting chain, fully tighten the
four setscrews. Refit the lower tilting pinion guard.
Turn the handwheel and check the drum and trunnion operate correctly and contact
the travel stops without unduly stressing the tilting chain.
Tilting Chain
To access the tilting chain remove the upper and lower chain guards behind the front
plate of the trunnion. The chain is anchored to the trunnion end plate by means of
two split links one in each end of the chain.
To replace the chain, place the drum in the vertical position and engage the
handwheel locking plunger in the lower single hole. Slacken the four setscrews
retaining the tilting bracket and lift the bracket in the slots to release any tension on
the chain, tighten at least one of the setscrews to hold the bracket in place. Separate
the split links and unhook the chain. Reverse the procedure to refit the chain
adjusting the final chain tension by sliding the tilting bracket in the slots. Refit the
guards and check the trunnion contacts the travel stops without unduly stressing the
chain.
Countershaft/Bevel Pinion Drive Chain.
Remove the chain guard from the rear of the trunnion. Crank the engine over until
the chain split link is visible. Disconnect the split link, hook the new chain loosely
onto the split link slowly crank the engine and pull the new chain in place round the
countershaft sprocket. Remove the old chain and link. Loop the new chain round
the sprocket in the bevel pinion shaft and fit the new split link. The open end of the
split end should point away from the normal direction of rotation, which is anti-
clockwise when looking directly at the chain. Check and adjust the chain tension.
(See Bevel Pinion Shaft and Housing). Refit the chain guard.

WORKSHOP MANUAL
Winget Hand Fed Mixers
Models: 200T
From 1998
Bevel Pinion Shaft and Housing
Follow the procedures described earlier and remove the drum, bevel gear guard and
disconnect the countershaft bevel pinion drive chain.
Rotate the trunnion until it reaches its highest point and lock in place. Remove the
gib head key securing the sprocket to the bevel pinion shaft. Remove the bevel
pinion guard, release the tabwashers and remove the setscrews, packers and shims
securing the bevel pinion housing. At this point the bevel pinion housing should be
supported by a second pair of hands, strapped or supported in some other manner
to prevent it dropping down sharply and causing damage to the casting, it will
otherwise only be secured by the loose fitting retaining plate and sprocket.
Remove the nuts and washer off the two bolts retaining the bevel pinion housing
adjusting plate. Using a soft faced hammer knock the bevel pinion shaft through the
sprocket until it is possible to remove the sprocket. Remove the bolts through the
retaining plate and lift the bevel pinion housing out of the trunnion.
Clamp the housing in a soft jawed vice and remove the gib head key retaining the
bevel pinion and pull off the bevel pinion.
Remove the circlip from the groove within the housing and using a soft faced
hammer knock the shaft and bearings out of the housing. The bearings can now be
removed from the shaft.
Carefully remove the seals from the bearings and pack the bearings with good
quality grease, refit the seals, do not completely fill the bearings with grease leave
some room for expansion as the grease warms up in service.
To reassemble secure the bevel pinion shaft into a soft jawed vice. Using the correct
size of Bearing tube and a soft faced hammer or suitable drift fit the bearings to the
shaft. Note the larger of the two bearings is fitted to the longer shank of the shaft.
Remove the shaft from the vice and using the vice support the bevel pinion housing.
Using the correct size of bearing tube or suitable drift and the soft faced hammer
knock the shaft fully into the housing. Fit the retaining circlip into the groove within
the housing. Check the shaft turns freely.
Assemble the bevel pinion to the shaft, fitting the gib head key. The pinion is fitted to
the longer shank of the shaft. If correctly assembled the threaded holes in the
casting will be at the same end. Do not at this stage fit the sprocket to the opposite
end of the bevel pinion assembly, as this will prevent re-assembly of the housing
back into the trunnion.
Loosely fit the triangular adjusting plate back into the trunnion, locating the plate on
the peg. Fit the two bolts through the adjusting plate from the rear of the trunnion so

WORKSHOP MANUAL
Winget Hand Fed Mixers
Models: 200T
From 1998
that when assembled the head of the bolts will be sandwiched between the trunnion
rear plate and the bevel pinion shaft drive sprocket.
Work the bevel pinion housing back into the trunnion and through the adjusting plate.
As the shaft protrudes through the rear of the trunnion slide on the sprocket until it is
fully home.
Refit the setscrews, tabwashers, packer and shim set retaining the bevel pinion
housing and finger tighten only.
Fit the gib head key retaining the drive sprocket and refit the drive chain, when
connecting the split link the open end of the link should be fitted so that it points
away from the normal direction of rotation which is anti-clockwise when looking
directly at the chain.
Release the trunnion and turn back to its lowest position.
Refer to the Drum Adjustment illustration. The adjusting plate holding the rear of the
bevel pinion housing (D) is slotted to allow the housing to move up and down
enabling correct adjustment of the chain tension (F). Check and adjust the chain
tension and tighten the bolts holding the adjusting plate. By adding or subtracting
shims (E) between the thick packer and the bevel pinion housing ensure the
housing is horizontal in the Trunnion and square to the rear plate. Re-check the
chain tension and fully tighten the bolts and setscrews securing the bevel pinion
housing (D), knock over the tab washers.
Crank the engine ensuring both the countershaft and bevel pinion turn freely. Coat
the bevel pinion with open gear lubricant and fit the pinion guard. Fit the rear chain
guard.
Following the procedures described earlier refit the bevel gear guard and drum
assembly.
Countershaft, Trunnion Journal and Driven Chainwheel/ ‘V’ Pulley
Although it is recommended that the trunnion is removed completely from the mixer
should the countershaft or trunnion journal require attention it is possible to leave the
trunnion assembly in place provided it is properly supported.
Remove the engine housing lid, top plate, engine housing chain guard and infill plate.
Slacken the two bolts through the bevel pinion housing adjusting plate and the two
setscrews which secure the casting at the pinion end to release the tension on the
countershaft chain.
Disconnect the split links retaining both the engine drive and countershaft chains and
remove the chains. On 240v electric drive and Yanmar electric start diesel mixers the
drive is transmitted to the countershaft by means of a ‘V’ belt in place of the chain.

WORKSHOP MANUAL
Winget Hand Fed Mixers
Models: 200T
From 1998
The ‘V’ belt drive pulley for the Yanmar differs from the electric motor in that it has a
smaller diameter and is retained by means of a taper lock bush.
Withdraw the gib head key retaining the driven chainwheel/’V’ belt pulley to the
countershaft and pull off the chainwheel/pulley. On Yanmar powered equipment
release the taper lock bush and slide off the pulley assembly and flat washer.
Lock the drum in the vertical position using the handwheel locking plunger and using
suitable lifting equipment, jacks or chocks secure the trunnion to prevent it moving
when the journal is withdrawn.
Remove the two setscrews retaining the journal casting to the mainframe, take the
weight off the trunnion and withdraw the journal from the trunnion.
Support the assembly in a soft jawed vice, remove the circlip retaining the
countershaft sprocket and pull off the sprocket, remove the feather key.
Remove the circlip in front of the bearing and using a soft faced hammer and
suitable drift knock the shaft out of the journal from the opposite end.
Remove the bearings and clean all the components. Carefully remove the seals from
the new bearings and pack the bearings with good quality grease, refit the seals, do
not completely fill the bearings with grease leave some room for expansion as the
grease warms up in service.
Reverse the procedure to re-assemble using a suitable bearing tube or drift to seat
the front bearing into the housing, retain with the circlip. Pass the countershaft (end
with feather key way and circlip groove) through the housing and into the bearing and
knock fully home using a soft faced mallet or hammer. Fit the second bearing over
the shaft and knock fully home using a bearing tube or drift until it contacts the
shoulder on the shaft.
Fit the feather key, slide on the small sprocket and retain with the circlip. Smear a
little grease around the circumference of the trunnion/journal bearing face and in the
bore of the corresponding bearing boss on the trunnion. Slide the journal fully home
into the end of the trunnion and retain using the two setscrews. Remove the chocks,
lifting equipment or jacks and tighten the setscrews fully.
Coat the end of the countershaft with anti-seize compound and slide on the
chainwheel/’V’ belt pulley, pushing fully onto the shaft, fit the gib head key. On
Yanmar powered equipment re-assemble the taper lock bush arrangement not
forgetting the flat washer behind the pulley assembly.
Refit both the countershaft chain and the engine chain/’V’ belt, ensuring that the
open end of the chain split links point away from the normal direction of rotation.
Adjust the countershaft chain tension (refer to the ‘drum adjustment illustration’ and
‘bevel pinion housing’) and tighten the bevel pinion housing, check the engine drive

WORKSHOP MANUAL
Winget Hand Fed Mixers
Models: 200T
From 1998
chain tension or ‘V’ belt pulley tension, adjust the tension as necessary. On LT1/LV1
diesel engines adjust the shimming below the engine (see ‘engines’), on 240V
electric drive machines and Yanmar electric start diesel engines move the
motor/engine either upwards or downwards on the threaded adjusters as required.
Fit the infill plate, chain guards and plastic plug, top plate and engine-housing lid and
closing plate. Release the locking plunger and operate the handwheel ensure the
trunnion tilts correctly, start the engine or motor and check the operation of the drum
drive, also check for unusual noises.
Front Trunnion Bearing Replacement
Lock the drum and trunnion in the vertical position using the handwheel locking
plunger. Using suitable lifting equipment, jacks or chocks support the trunnion just
behind the front leg of the mainframe.
Remove the two nuts and washers securing the profiled retaining plate, take the
weight of the trunnion and pull off the plate and bearing boss. Clean all parts.
Reverse the procedure to refit, not forgetting the grease nipple which also prevents
the bearing from turning. Remove the chocks, jacks or lifting equipment.
Trunnion Removal/Replacement
Remove the drum, engine housing lid, top plate, chain guards and infill plate in the
engine housing. Remove the upper and lower tilting chain guards and remove the
tilting chain. Remove the engine drive chain, undo and remove the two setscrews
retaining the journal and the two nuts securing the front bearing, attach lifting suitable
equipment to the trunnion and take the weight, remove the front bearing.
Note, to remove the trunnion fully it will be necessary to rotate the trunnion as it is
being lifted in order for it to clear the engine housing.
Slide the trunnion towards the engine housing until it can be seen that the travel stop
pegs welded in the front leg and trunnion end plate are clear of each other, rotate the
trunnion and move backwards and upwards to clear the engine housing.
Place the trunnion on a suitable surface and remove the bevel pinion housing and
journal as previously described.
Reverse the procedure to rebuild the trunnion and refit it into the mixer referring to
the relevant sections to set up bevel pinion, journal, front bearing, drum etc.
Engine LT1/LV1-10 Hand Start
“CE” marked machines are fitted with ‘anti-kick back starting handles’ in order to
comply with local legislation. For information on the starting handles refer to the
engine operators handbook or engine workshop manual.

WORKSHOP MANUAL
Winget Hand Fed Mixers
Models: 200T
From 1998
For details on engine services or overhauls, changing engine oils, filters and bleeding
the fuel system refer to the engine operator’s handbook or engine workshop manual.
Note, the engine isset to run at 1500 rpm and rotates clockwise at the flywheel
end.
Drive Sprocket Removal/Replacement
On the LT1/LV1-10 the Sprocket iskeyed onto the engine extension shaft and also held
by an M8 grubscrew. Replacement of the sprocket requires removal of the engine.
Remove the engine housing closing plate, engine housing lid, top plate and chain
guards. Disconnect the drive chain. Remove the exhaust pipe, remove the bolts
securing the engine mounting channels to the engine bed. Using suitable lifting
equipment remove the engine taking care not to lose the shims.
Remove the gib head Key and pull off the sprocket. It may help release the key if the
sprocket is knocked backwards on the shaft away from the head of the key. Coat the
shaft and bore of the sprocket with anti-seize compound and slide on the new
sprocket with the boss towards the engine and retain approximately 17mm from the
end of the shaft using the gib head key. Do not at this stage fully fit the key incase
the sprocket needs to be aligned with the countershaft chain wheel when the engine
is refitted.
Lift the engine back into the mainframe and align the mounting channels with the
holes in the bed. Insert the bolts but do not fully tighten, refit the shim pack and re-
connect the chain. Check the alignment of the sprockets by moving the sprocket on
the shaft as necessary before fully inserting the gib head key and tightening the
grubscrew.
Check and adjust the chain tension by adding or subtracting engine shims. The
tension is correct when the chain deflects approximately 5mm about the centre line
of the chain. The chain tension should be checked midway between the two
sprockets. When the tension is correct fully tighten all the bolts and recheck the
chain tension.
A chain running too tight will cause starting problems and the increased loadings will
increase the rate of wear on the chain and sprocket and may also damage the
crankshaft bearings. A chain running too slack may run off the sprocket or
chainwheel.
Refit the exhaust pipe, retaining clamps and brackets, refit the engine housing lid,
chain guards not forgetting the polythene plug, top plate and closing plate.
Engine Yanmar L40/L48-ARE SE Electric Start
There is no difference in build specification between “CE” marked machines intended
for use in the European Union or those intended for export elsewhere. No starting

WORKSHOP MANUAL
Winget Hand Fed Mixers
Models: 200T
From 1998
handles are fitted to the Yanmar engines, instead a recoil rope starter is fitted as an
‘emergency’ back up starting device in the event that the electrical starting system
should fail. Note, starting the engine with the recoil in the absence of the battery or
start key may damage the charging system.
For details on engine services or overhauls, changing engine oils, filters and bleeding
the fuel system refer to the engine operator’s handbook or engine workshop manual.
Note, the ‘high speed’ engine is set to run at 3000 rpm and rotates clockwise at the
half speed (1500) PTO shaft extension.
To prevent the characteristics of chain drives damaging the Yanmar engine which
lacks the heavyflywheel of the slow speed Lister Petter LT1/LV1, the countershaft
chainwheel and engine drive chain are replaced by a “V” belt and “V” drive pulleys.
The engine is also mounted differently in that it is bolted to a height adjustable
bedplate, similar to the electric 240 volt motor to allow for belt tensioning.
Battery Removal/Replacement
The 12-volt battery is secured on the R/H side of the Yanmar engine within the
engine housing for security. To remove, unscrew the ‘T’ handle from the stop control
rod and remove the closing plate. The battery is retained by a non-conductive
clamping block, cover and threaded studs, the studs pass through the clamp block
screw down into and through the engine mounting plate being retained below the
plate with two M6 nuts. Remove the nuts, unscrew the studs and remove, lift off the
cover and clamp block, disconnect the battery leads and slide out the battery.
Reverse the procedure to refit the battery.
Drive Pulley Removal/Replacement
The drive pulley is keyed onto the engine extension shaft and also held by a small
grubscrew through the pulley shank. An M8 setscrew and flat washer is also screwed
into the end of the engine extension shaft to retain the pulley. Replacement requires
the removal of the engine.
Unscrew the ‘T’ handle from the stop control rod where it passes through the closing
plate. Undo the knot in the recoil rope retaining the handle where it passes through
the side of the engine housing, do not release the rope but remove the handle and
pass the rope back through into the housing. Tie a loose knot in the rope to prevent it
being pulled inside the recoil housing under spring tension. Alternatively the recoil
can be removed from the engine and allowed to hang inside the engine housing. To
remove the recoil mark its position on the flywheel housing and remove the three
small screws which retain the assembly in place.
Remove the engine housing closing plate, engine housing lid, top plate and chain
/belt guards. Remove the ‘V’ belt and unbolt the electrical panel from the side of the
mainframe, disconnect the battery. Remove the bolts securing the engine to the

WORKSHOP MANUAL
Winget Hand Fed Mixers
Models: 200T
From 1998
mounting plate and carefully lift the engine out of the housing. Turn the engine
through 180’ to access the drive pulley and rest the engine back on the mounting
plate taking care it does not topple off.
Slacken the grubscrew and remove the setscrew and washer, pull off the pulley, it
may be necessary to use a small two legged puller if the pulley has been attached
for some time.
Coat the bore of the pulley and the extension shaft with anti-seize compound and
slide the pulley onto the shaft fully home up to the shoulder, fit the key, grubscrew,
setscrew and washer.
Lift the engine back into the mainframe and secure to the bed. Insert the bolts but
do not fully tighten and refit the ‘V’ belt check the belt alignment and tighten the
engine retaining bolts.
Check and adjust the belt tension by means of the long threaded adjusting screws
the tension is correct when the belt deflects approximately 8-12mm about the centre
line of the belt. The tension should be checked midway between the two pulleys.
When the tension is correct fully tighten all the bolts and recheck the tension.
A belt running too tight will cause starting problems and the increased loadings will
increase the rate of wear on the belt causing it to stretch prematurely and may also
damage the crankshaft bearings. A belt running too slack will slip under load with
the result that the drum will cease to revolve.
Reconnect the battery and electric start panel, ensuring the wiring is secured and will
not chafe through.
Refit the recoil assembly or rope handle, engine housing lid, chain/belt guards not
forgetting the polythene plug, top plate, closing plate and stop control ‘T’ handle.
240 Volt 1PH Electric Motor
The motor runs at approximately 1420/1470 rpm and rotates Clockwise.
To accommodate the reduction in rpm at the motor and to prevent the characteristics
of chain drives damaging the motor, the countershaft chainwheel and engine drive
chain are replaced by a “V” belt and “V” drive pulley.
The motor isalso mounted differentlyto the Lister Petter LT1/LV1 in that itisbolted to a
height adjustable bedplate, similar to the Yanmar engine to allow for belt tensioning.
The contactor enclosure is attached to the chain/belt guard and a key lockable
‘emergency’ stop button is fitted to the exterior of the engine housing on the left-hand
side.