Winget 100T Instruction manual

WORKSHOP MANUAL
100T, 150T & 175T
HANDFED MIXERS
WINGET LIMITED
PO BOX 41
EDGEFOLD INDUSTRIAL ESTATE
PLODDER LANE
BOLTON
LANCS
BL4 OLR
Tel: ++ 44 (0) 1204 854650
[e-mail]
[email protected]
www.winget.co.uk
ISSUE 01 2021
FROM 2015 ONWARDS

WORKSHOP MANUAL
100T / 150T / 175T
Winget Concrete Mixers
From 2015 Onwards
Issue 012021
CONTENTS
Section 1 Introduction
Section 2 Repair and Service Procedures
Section 3 General Arrangement Dimensions
Section 4 Service Schedules
Section 5 Lubrication Diagram
Section 6 Wiring Diagrams
Section 7 Noise Levels
Section 8 Special Tools
Section 9 Parts Listings

WORKSHOP MANUAL
100T, 150T & 175T
SECTION 1
INTRODUCTION

WORKSHOP MANUAL
100T / 150T / 175T
Winget Concrete Mixers
From 2015 Onwards
Issue 012021
Introduction
It is assumed that personnel involved in either the assembly or repair of Winget
Mixers will be familiar with the product, either through the operation of, or
previous repair and maintenance work. It is not intended to be used by
personnel who are neither familiar with the product nor mechanically
inexperienced.
It is also assumed that personnel are aware of Health and Safety Regulations,
which should be applied to all working practices but the following should act as a
reminder.
Ensure all work tools are in good condition.
Always wear Safety Spectacles when using soft or hard faced hammers, chisels
or when using air tools. Wear Safety Spectacles when cleaning hardened
concrete or mortar deposits off components. Do not misuse airlines and be
aware of the damage compressed air can cause if misused.
Always make sure lifting equipment is in good condition and the marked Safe
Working Loads exceed the weights of the components to be lifted.
Oils, fuels, silicone sealers and open gear lubricants can cause skin diseases if
allowed to contaminate the skin. Always apply barrier creams, wear suitable
protective clothing, or when contamination is unavoidable clean the area with
soap and water as soon as possible. Do not use thinners or other solvents to
clean skin.
Health and Safety is a matter of common sense. If common sense is applied
correctly Health and Safety can be improved and the risk of accidents reduced.
L/H and R/H views are taken when standing directly behind and facing the
engine housing.
Refer to the Parts Books for a guide to the correct sequence for assembling
components and sub-assemblies.
Whilst every effort is made to ensure the contents of this manual are accurate,
Winget Limited reserve the right to altar specification without prior notification and
certain sections may then no longer apply.

WORKSHOP MANUAL
100T, 150T & 175T
SECTION 2
REPAIR & SERVICE
PROCEDURES

qualified electrician, who is conversant with single phase electrical circuits.
installation of 110 volt components and supply should be left to a suitably
Electric Motor.’ All wiring and other work concerned with the
described in this manual under the heading ‘110 volt single phase
Apart from installing the electric motor, mounting brackets and conduit as 3)
and refit the seal ensuring it is correctly seated.
prior to installation. Carefully remove a seal, pack the bearing with grease
All sealed for life bearings should be packed with a good quality grease 2)
should preferably be cleaned out using the correct tap
Clean any paint or debris from bores and shaft surfaces. Threaded holes 1)
assembling components and sub assemblies.
made to the Parts Listings in Section 9 for a guide to the correct sequence for
appropriate Parts and Operators Manual or CD ROM. Reference should also be
Distributors and the instructions should be used in conjunction with the
The following procedures are based in part on the procedures issued to
Repair & Maintenance Procedures
Issue 01 2021
From 2015 Onwards
Mixers
Winget Concrete
100T / 150T / 175T
WORKSHOP MANUAL

WORKSHOP MANUAL
100T / 150T / 175T
Winget Concrete Mixers
From 2015 Onwards
Issue 1 2021
Lifting Points
A lifting point capable of supporting the weight of the mixer is incorporated into
the trunnion.
This lifting point is highlighted with an ISO ‘Hook’ symbol adjacent to the point.
On Military/NATO mixers the lifting point will also be painted white.
Draw Bar Replacement-Four Wheel Tow
The drawbar is secured to the front axle using split pins and flat washers.
Remove the split pins and flat washers slide the old drawbar out of the lugs on
the front axle. Replacement is a reversal of the above procedures ensuring
that the eye on the drawbar points downwards.
Wheel Replacement-Four Wheel Tow
Solid rubber cushion and steel wheels are secured using split pins and flat
washers and the removal procedure is identical. Lift and support the axles.
Remove the split pins and washers. Clean the axle shafts and coat with
copperslip. Fit the new wheel replace the flat washer and secure using a new
split pin.
Wheel Replacement-Two Wheel Tow
On two wheel tow mixers the pneumatic tyre/wheel assembly is secured to the
hub/suspension unit by four nuts. To change a wheel, chock the wheel on the
opposite side, slacken but do not remove the wheel nuts securing the wheel to
be changed. Place a suitable jack below the suspension unit and jack up the
mixer until the tyre is just clear off the ground, remove the nuts and wheel
assembly. Reverse the procedure to refit and fully tighten the wheel nuts
when the jack is removed.
It is recommended that the wheel nuts be rechecked following a short “road
test”
Hub/Suspension Unit Replacement-Two Wheel Tow Mixers
The suspension units require no maintenance being a sealed unit having an
internal construction of rubber and ends sealed with nylon bushes.
Suspension units should not be subjected to heat such as welding or oxy-
acetylene cutting as this will damage the rubber and nylon components.
The suspension units are secured to the mainframe using six/eight bolts and
nuts to remove, slacken the wheel nuts, jack up and support the mainframe on
suitable supports. Do not attempt to work under the mainframe if it is

WORKSHOP MANUAL
100T / 150T / 175T
Winget Concrete Mixers
From 2015 Onwards
Issue 1 2021
supported only on a jack. Remove the wheel nuts and wheel assembly. Unbolt
and remove the mudguard and supporting bracket. Remove the remaining
bolts securing the suspension unit and detach the unit from the mainframe.
Note: it is recommended that suspension units be replaced in pairs.
Reverse the procedure to refit.
Wheel Hubs & Bearings-Two Wheel Tow
A single castle nut and flat washer retains the hubs to the stub axles of the
suspension units. The castle nut is also secured with a split pin; this is
accessible after removing the steel/plastic dust cap.
The bearings are automotive type taper roller bearings requiring a small
amount of end float.
To remove the hubs remove the wheels as described above, prise off the dust
caps. Remove the split pin, nut and washer and pull off the hub. Do not allow
the taper roller or ball bearings to drop to the floor where they will become
contaminated with dust etc. The later type inner taper roller bearing and seal
unit will normally be left on the stub axle when the hub is withdrawn, this can
be carefully tapped off using a suitable drift taking care not to damage the
bearing cage.
Clean all traces of old grease out of the hubs and off the stub axles, using a
suitable drift knock out the old bearings, pack the new bearings with grease
and tap home into the hub.
To adjust the taper roller bearings, tighten the nut then back off 1/4-1/2 a turn,
check that the hub spins freely without to much end float, .004” is sufficient.
Align the castle nut with the split pinhole in the stub axle and fit the retaining
split pin. Recheck the hub rotates freely and refit the dust cap. Charge the hub
with grease until the grease is visible in the breather hole in the cap.
It is recommended that the wheel bearing adjustment be rechecked after
giving the mixer a short “road test”.
Front Axle Replacement- Four Wheel Tow
The front axle is designed to rotate through 360, it does not oscillate and the
front axle swivel pin locates directly into the front leg of the mainframe where it
is secured via a spiral pin.
Jack up and support the mainframe and knock out the spiral pin. Remove the
axle. Replacement is a reversal of the procedure however the pivot pin and

WORKSHOP MANUAL
100T / 150T / 175T
Winget Concrete Mixers
From 2015 Onwards
Issue 1 2021
axle shafts should be coated with copperslip. The axle should be rotated
through 360 degrees making sure the spiral pin does not foul the mainframe.
Drum Removal
Attach suitable lifting equipment through the drum blades. Knock back the
tabs on the lock-washer securing the drum shaft setscrews. Remove the
setscrews and the washers securing the shaft and flange. With the drum
mouth upright lift the drum assembly clear of the trunnion. It may be
necessary to rock the trunnion via the tiltwheel to free the shaft, especially if
the mixer has been in service for some time.
In exceptional circumstances it may be necessary to use a commercially
available two-leg puller/pusher tool to assist in pushing the drum shaft through
the trunnion. When using such tools please ensure the manufacturers or
supplier’s instructions are adhered to.
Drum Re-Fitting
Clean and lubricate both the drum shaft and trunnion base plates with
copperslip. Coat the bevel pinion and bevel gear with open gear lubricant.
Attach suitable lifting equipment through the drum blades; lift the drum
assembly and position over the trunnion.
Turn the drum shaft so the threaded holes in the shaft are at 90 to the holes
in the lower base plate. Lower the drum and shaft assembly into place
making sure that the bevel gear and pinion are fully in mesh and the drum
shaft is fully through the base plates.
Slip the lockwasher over the two drum shaft setscrews and coat the threads
with copperslip, using the setscrews secure the flange to the shaft. The flange
can be used to turn the shaft until the remaining holes in the flange align with
the remaining holes in the lower base plate.
Check the number of flat washers required to pack the gap between the
flange and lower base plate. (See “A” on the following illustration).
Deduct one washer from each side. Coat the threads on the setscrews with
copperslip and fit the setscrews with spring washers attached through the
flange and flat washers and tighten into the base Plate. This will lift the drum
shaft slightly back through the trunnion increasing the distance between the
teeth of the bevel pinion and bevel gear. Gently rock the drum assembly back
and forth and check the backlash between the gears. (Approx 3-5mm
measured at drum clip). Ensure the setscrews are tight and knock over the
tabs on the lockwasher.

100T 150T 175T DRUM DRIVE LAYOUT

WORKSHOP MANUAL
100T / 150T / 175T
Winget Concrete Mixers
From 2015 Onwards
Issue 1 2021
Check the drum drive gears rotate smoothly when running the engine.
Drum Cone Replacement
Wearing suitable eye protection clean any hardened concrete or mortar
deposits from around the drum clip and the bolts securing the drum blades.
Remove the bolts securing the blades to the drum cone and slacken the bolts
through the base. Cut through the drum clip and remove. Lift off the drum
cone. If using oxy-acetylene cutting gear take care as concrete “explodes”
violently spitting small pieces of concrete when hot, always wear eye
protection.
If necessary clean out the drum base. Clean old silicone sealer and hardened
concrete from the drum flange otherwise it will be difficult to effect a good seal
when the new cone is fitted.
Run a generous bead of silicone sealer around the flange and inside the new
drum clip. Leave the last 150mm of each end of the clip free from sealer.
Using suitable lifting equipment lift the new drum cone in place lining up the
holes in the cone with those in the blades. Loosely refit in the bolts, nuts and
washers. Fit the new drum clip around the circumference of the two halves of
the drum tapping in place over the flanges using a soft faced hammer.
Attach the special drum clip tool; available under part number 513204000
from your local Winget distributor, placing the pins of the tool into the holes in
each end of the clip. (Refer to the illustration)
Using a suitable spanner tighten the drum clip to the drum until it is secure.
Do not overtighten the clip or the pins in each end of the tool will shear off.
Slip the
bridge piece over the remaining gap in the drum clip and weld in place.
Remove the tool and fully tighten the drum blades.
Run the mixer, tilting the drum via the tiltwheel making sure that the drum, clip
or bridge piece, do not foul the mainframe or guards. Check the watertight
integrity of the drum by emptying a bucket of water into the drum whilst the
drum is tilted and the engine is running and observe if water leaks around the
clip are evident. If leaks are evident run a bead of silicone around the interior
joint between the two halves of the drum.
Stop the engine; clean any excess silicone off the drum or clip.
Drum Blade Replacement
It is unlikely that drum blades will require replacement separately to the drum
cone. However in the event that it should prove necessary, wearing suitable

100T 150T 175T DRUM CLIP FIXING
AFTER COATING THE MATING FACES OF THE DRUM
BASE AND CONE WITH SILICONE SEALER FIT THE
CLIP AROUND THE DRUM AS SHOWN. RUN A BEAD
OF SEALER INSIDE THE DRUM CLIP PRIOR TO
FITMENT LEAVING APPROXIMATELY 6’’ (I50mm)
EACH END OF THE CLIP CLEAR OF SEALER. CLAMP
THE CLIP IN PLACE USING THE SPECIAL TOOL
NUMBER 513204000. FIT THE BRIDGE PIECE IN
PLACE OVER THE GAP LEFT IN THE CLIP AND WELD
IN PLACE

WORKSHOP MANUAL
100T / 150T / 175T
Winget Concrete Mixers
From 2015 Onwards
Issue 1 2021
eye protection clean any hardened concrete or mortar deposits from around
the bolts securing the blades. Remove the bolts and blades. Due to the
corrosive action of concrete and mortar it may be necessary to cut through the
old bolts using oxy-acetylene equipment. Be aware that hot concrete can
“explode” violently spitting concrete - wear suitable eye protection and
protective clothing.
Attach the new blades into the drum assembly finger tighten the bolts until all
the bolts are in place. Tighten the bolts.
The bolts should go into the drum from the outside and only round headed
bolts, either slotted or hexagon key should be used.
Bevel Gear Guard Replacement
Remove the drum assembly as previously described. Remove the four
setscrews, nuts, etc. holding the guard in place. Fit the new guard tighten the
setscrews. Replace the drum assembly as previously described.
Bevel Gear Replacement
Remove the drum assembly as previously described. Turn the drum so that it
stands on the drum mouth, support the centre housing on the inside of the
drum or attach lifting equipment to the drum shaft so that the centre housing
cannot fall inside the drum when the bevel gear is removed.
Release the lockwashers and remove the setscrews securing the bevel gear,
prise off the bevel gear and clean down the surface of the drum ready to
accept a
replacement. Fit the new bevel gear, slip new lockwashers on to the
setscrews, coat the threads with copperslip and enter through the bevel gear
into the centre housing.
Turn the tang on the lockwashers so that the tang can be turned down the
inside of the bevel gear. Tighten the setscrews and bend the rounded edge of
the lockwashers over the flats on the head of the setscrews. Coat the bevel
gear with open gear lubricant. Refit the drum assembly as previously
described.
Drum Shaft, Bearings and Drum Centre
Remove the drum assembly as described previously. Lay the drum assembly
on its side and release the lockwashers. Support the centre housing and
remove the setscrews, which pass through the bevel gear and prise off the
bevel gear. Carefully lower the centre housing into the drum. Lift the Housing
out of the drum and clean down the mating surfaces in the drum removing all
traces of the old gasket and sealer.

WORKSHOP MANUAL
100T / 150T / 175T
Winget Concrete Mixers
From 2015 Onwards
Issue 1 2021
Clean the centre housing prior to any further dismantling. Remove the large
circlip from the groove within the centre housing and using a suitable tool pull
the drum shaft assembly out of the housing. If a suitable tool is not available
secure the drum shaft in a soft jawed vice and using a soft faced hammer
knock the housing off the shaft taking care not to damage the housing. Clean
any debris out of the housing and inspect for damage.
Secure the drum shaft upright in a soft jawed vice remove the upper circlip
and bearing. Release the lockwasher and remove the nut, lockwasher and
distance piece. Remove the lower bearing.
Before fitting new bearings carefully remove the seals from the bearings and
pack the bearings with good quality grease, refit the seals, do not completely
fill the bearings with grease leave some room for expansion as the grease
warms up in service.
Re-assemble the shaft in reverse order making sure the lockwasher is
correctly fitted and locked onto the nut.
Smear the circumference of the bearings with copperslip and using a soft
faced hammer knock the shaft assembly fully home into the housing. Refit the
circlip into the groove within the housing.
Place a new gasket over the housing, locate the housing assembly into the
drum and temporarily support in place.
Refit the bevel gear as previously described. Remove the supports from
below the centre housing inside the drum. Refit the drum assembly as
previously described.
Tilting Wheel and Locking Plunger
The tilting wheel is secured to the tilting pinion via a spiral pin and an
additional M10 grubscrew. With the drum in the vertical position knock out the
spiral pin, slacken the grubscrew and remove the tilting wheel.
The locking plunger is held in place in the tilting wheel by a second smaller
spiral pin. Knock out this pin and remove the locking plunger and spring.
Re-assemble in the reverse order coating the locking plunger and pinion shaft
with copperslip. Soak the felt seals on the pinion shaft in oil.
Tilting Bracket
With the drum in the vertical position, place temporary supports between the
mainframe and trunnion to support the trunnion when the tilting bracket is
removed.

WORKSHOP MANUAL
100T / 150T / 175T
Winget Concrete Mixers
From 2015 Onwards
Issue 1 2021
Remove the upper tiling gear guard. Remove the four socket headed
capscrews securing the tilting bracket taking care not to drop the retaining
brackets on the inside of the mainframe front leg. Pull off the tilting bracket
assembly. Check the felt seal in the face of the tilting gear replace and/or
lubricate as required.
Knock out the spiral pin securing the tilting wheel to the tilting pinion and
slacken off the M10 grubscrew. Lift off the tilting wheel and slide the pinion out
of the bracket. Check the condition of the bushes and felt seals. Replace
and/or lubricate as required. The stub shaft is also secured into the tilting
bracket via a spiral pin and can be removed simply by knocking out the pin.
Reassemble the tilting bracket in reverse order lubricating bushes and felt
seals with engine oil. Coat shafts, pinions and plungers with copperslip.
When refitting the tilting bracket assembly to the mixer, engage and lock the
plunger into the middle of the three bushed blind holes.
Locate the stub shaft into the tilting gear and ensuring that the tilting pinion
correctly meshes with the tilting gear push the assembly fully home.
Coat the threads on the four capscrews with thread lock, insert through the
tilting bracket, mainframe and into the retaining bars which should be held in
position until the capscrews are engaged. Tighten the capscrews. Check that
the drum clip is sat horizontally, if not the pinion and tilting gear may be a
tooth out. Refit the upper tilting gear guard. Remove the temporary supports.
Tilting Gear and Lower Guard
Remove the tilting bracket as described previously. Undo and remove the
four setscrews securing the guard to the mainframe. Undo and remove the
four nyloc nuts and flat washers holding the tilting gear. Push the bolts back
through the gear, slide the gear forward and lift clear of the mainframe. Lift off
the lower guard.
Reassemble in reverse order not forgetting to put the guard behind the gear.
Lubricate the felt seal.
Refit the tilting bracket as previously described.
Countershaft/Bevel Pinion Drive Chain.
Remove the chain guard from the rear of the trunnion. Crank the engine over
until the chain split link is visible. Disconnect the link. Hook the new chain
loosely onto the split link and slowly crank the engine pulling the new chain in
place round the countershaft chain wheel. Remove the old chain and link.
Loop the new chain round the chain wheel on the bevel pinion shaft and fit the

WORKSHOP MANUAL
100T / 150T / 175T
Winget Concrete Mixers
From 2015 Onwards
Issue 1 2021
new split link. The open end of the split end should point away from the
normal direction of rotation, which is anti-clockwise when looking directly at
the chain. Check and adjust the chain tension. (See bevel pinion shaft and
housing). Refit the chain guard.
Bevel Pinion Shaft and Housing
Follow the procedures described earlier and remove the drum, bevel gear
guard and disconnect the countershaft bevel pinion drive chain.
Rotate the trunnion until it reaches its highest point and lock in place. Remove
the gib head key securing the chain wheel to the bevel pinion shaft. Remove
the bevel pinion guard, release the lockwashers and remove the setscrews,
packers and shims securing the bevel pinion housing. At this point the
housing should either be supported by a second pair of hands, strapped or
supported in some other manner to prevent it dropping down sharply and
causing damage to the casting, it will otherwise only be secured by the loose
fitting retaining plate and chain wheel.
Remove the nuts and washer from the two bolts retaining the bevel pinion
housing adjusting plate. Using a soft faced hammer knock the bevel pinion
shaft through the chain wheel until it is possible to remove the chain wheel.
Remove the bolts through the retaining plate and lift the housing out of the
trunnion.
Clamp the housing in a soft jawed vice and remove the gib head key retaining
the bevel pinion and pull off the pinion.
Remove the circlip from the groove within the housing and using a soft faced
hammer knock the shaft and bearings out of the housing. The bearings can
now be removed from the shaft.
Before fitting new bearings carefully remove the seals from the bearings and
pack the bearings with good quality grease, refit the seals, do not completely
fill the bearings with grease leave some room for expansion as the grease
warms up in service.
To reassemble secure the bevel pinion shaft into a soft jawed vice. Using the
correct size of bearing tube and a soft faced hammer fit the bearings to the
shaft. Note the larger of the two bearings is fitted to the longer shank of the
shaft. Remove the shaft from the vice and using the vice support the bevel
pinion housing. Using the correct size of bearing tube and the soft faced
hammer knock the shaft fully into the housing. Fit the retaining circlip into the
groove within the housing and check the shaft turns freely.
Assemble the bevel pinion to the shaft, fitting the gib head key. The pinion is
fitted to the longer shank of the shaft. If correctly assembled the threaded

WORKSHOP MANUAL
100T / 150T / 175T
Winget Concrete Mixers
From 2015 Onwards
Issue 1 2021
holes in the casting will be at the same end. Do not at this stage fit the chain
wheel to the opposite end of the bevel pinion assembly, as this will prevent
reassembly of the housing into the trunnion.
Loosely fit the triangular adjusting plate back into the trunnion, locating the
plate on the peg. Fit the two bolts through the adjusting plate from the rear of
the trunnion so that when assembled the head of the bolts will be sandwiched
between the trunnion rear plate and the chain wheel.
Work the bevel pinion housing back into the trunnion and through the
adjusting plate. As the shaft protrudes through the rear of the trunnion slide
on the chain wheel until it is fully home.
Refit the setscrews, lockwashers, packer and shim set retaining the bevel
pinion housing and finger tighten only.
Fit the gib head key retaining the chainwheel and refit the drive chain, when
connecting the split link the open end of the link should be fitted so that it
points away from the normal direction of rotation which is anti-clockwise when
looking directly at the chain.
Release the trunnion and turn back to its lowest position. The adjusting plate
holding the rear of the bevel pinion housing is slotted to allow the housing to
move up and down enabling correct adjustment of the chain tension. Check
and adjust the chain and tighten the two bolts securing the adjusting plate. By
adding or subtracting shims between the thick packer and housing ensure the
housing is horizontal in the trunnion and square to the rear plate. Re-check
the chain tension and fully tighten the bolts and setscrews securing the
housing, knock over the lockwashers.
Crank the engine ensuring both the countershaft and bevel pinion turn freely.
Coat the bevel pinion with grease or open gear lubricant and fit the pinion
guard. Fit the rear chain guard folding the tab over the trunnion.
Following the procedures described earlier refit the bevel gear guard and
drum assembly.
Countershaft, Trunnion Journal, Bearing Housing & Driven “V” Belt
Pulley
Although it is recommended that the trunnion be removed completely from the
mixer should the countershaft, trunnion journal or bearing housing require
attention it is possible to leave the trunnion assembly in place provided it is
properly supported.

WORKSHOP MANUAL
100T / 150T / 175T
Winget Concrete Mixers
From 2015 Onwards
Issue 1 2021
Remove the drum as described previously. Remove the engine housing lid
(top plate on 175T), engine housing chain guard and trunnion chain guard.
Disconnect the “V” belt and bevel pinion drive chain.
Remove the six setscrews securing the trunnion bracket to the engine
housing, remove the four countersunk socket headed screws and lift off the
trunnion journal assembly.
Support the assembly in a soft jawed vice, remove the gib head key retaining
the countershaft chain wheel and remove the chain wheel. Lift off the trunnion
bracket; carefully remove the trunnion bearing and strip out the “O” rings and
nylatron strip.
Using a soft faced hammer knock the countershaft out of the trunnion journal.
Remove the bearing and circlip from within the journal housing.
Secure the countershaft in a soft faced vice, remove the grubscrew and
unscrew the chain wheel, remove the bearing. Note: The countershaft and
chain wheel both have a LH thread.
Re-assembly
Fit the circlip into the groove within the trunnion journal and lubricate the outer
circumference/bearing face with copperslip.
Insert the nylatron bearing strip into the trunnion bearing, fit the “O” rings into
their respective grooves within the bearing housing and pack the “O” ring
grooves and nylatron bearing with grease. (Refer to the illustration to identify
the “O” rings and their location)
Carefully fit the trunnion bearing over the trunnion journal taking care not to
dislodge the “O” rings or damage the trunnion bearing.
Before fitting new bearings carefully remove the seals from the bearings and
pack the bearings with good quality grease, refit the seals, do not completely
fill the bearings with grease leave some room for expansion as the grease
warms up in service.
Secure the countershaft in a soft jawed vice and using the correct size of
bearing tube and a soft faced hammer fit the larger of the two bearings to the
threaded end of the countershaft. Apply threadlock to the threads and screw
on and tighten the countershaft chain wheel. Peen the end of the shaft in four
points as an additional precaution to prevent the chain wheel unscrewing. Fit
the grubscrew coating the threads with threadlock.
Insert the smaller bearing into the journal making sure it seats against the
circlip.

100T 150T 175T 'O' RING LOCATION
49S41
49S42
PACK ‘O’ RING CAVITIES
AND NYLATRON
BEARING WITH GREASE
ON ASSEMBLY

WORKSHOP MANUAL
100T / 150T / 175T
Winget Concrete Mixers
From 2015 Onwards
Issue 1 2021
Support the trunnion journal/trunnion bearing assembly in a soft jawed vice
and using a soft faced hammer knock the countershaft assembly into the
journal taking care not to dislodge the lower bearing. Remove the completed
assembly and check the countershaft turns freely. Feed the short drive chain
onto the countershaft chain wheel.
Coat the threads on the countersunk socket headed screws with threadlock
and secure the assembly onto the face of the trunnion.
Turn the trunnion bearing so that the machined slot is at 12 o'clock and locate
the trunnion bracket, fit the six setscrews and tighten.
Refit the drum assembly, countershaft chain and guard as previously
described.
Coat the countershaft inside the engine housing with copperslip, fit the “V” belt
pulley and gib head key. Refit the ‘V’ belt.
Refit the belt guard not forgetting the polythene plug, engine housing lid and
top plate on the 175T.
Start the engine and run test checking for unusual noises.
Engine, Yanmar L48N/L48V5V Electric Start.
There is no difference in build specification between “CE” “UKCA” or “UKNI”
marked machines intended for use in the UK, European Union or those
intended for export elsewhere in the world. The Yanmar engines have a recoil
rope starter fitted as an ‘emergency’ back up starting device in the event that
the electrical starting system should fail. Note, starting the engine with the
recoil in the absence of the battery or start key may damage the charging
system.
For details on engine services or overhauls, changing engine oils, filters and
bleeding the fuel system refer to the engine operator’s handbook or engine
workshop manual.
Note: this ‘high speed’ engine is set to run at approx. 2700 rpm and rotates
clockwise at the half speed (1350 rpm) PTO shaft extension. The “speed
control” on factory fitted engines is modified to reduce the engine speed from
the standard Yanmar setting. Replacement engines will need the speed
control similarly modifying before installation. Refer to the illustrated Yanmar
Type D Throttle Control instructions page in this manual.
Drive is transmitted from the half speed PTO shaft via a “V” belt and “V” drive
pulleys.