Xray T1R Raycer Product guide

Introduction
Introduction 2
Final Adjustments
Radio Adjustments 3
Speed Control (ESC) Adjustments 3
Connecting the Motor 3
Motor Gearing 3
Rollout 5
Differential Adjustment 5
Tightening the Differentials 6
Loosening the Differentials 6
Building the Differentials 6
Checking the Differential Slippage 7
Checking the Differential Action 7
Tightening the Differential 7
Loosening the Differential 7
Breaking In the Differentials 7
Adjusting the Front Differential 7
Adjusting the Rear Differential 8
One-Way Pulley (Available Option) 9
Looser One-Way Pulley 9
Tighter One-Way Pulley 9
One-Way Front Differential (Available Option) 9
Front Solid Axle 10
Shocks 10
Springs 10
XRAY Spring Tensions 11
Spring Preload 11
Shock Position 12
Front Shocks - Upper Mounting Position 12
Front Shocks - Lower Mounting Position 12
Rear Shocks - Upper Mounting Position 13
Rear Shocks - Lower Mounting Position 13
Shock Oil 13
Shock Damping 14
Damping and Shock Pistons 14
Tires, Wheels, and Inserts 15
Tires 15
Inserts 15
Traction Compound 16
Body Aerodynamics 16
Bodies 16
Wings 16
Chassis Setup
Track-Width 17
Downstops 17
Front Downstops 18
Rear Downstops 18
Ride Height 19
Ride Height and Tires 20
Ride Height and Suspension Settings 20
Ackermann and Steering Throw Symmetry 20
Changing the Ackermann Setting 21
Front Anti-Dive 22
Camber 23
Adjusting Front Camber 23
Front Camber Link Position 23
Adjusting Rear Camber 24
Rear Camber Link Position 24
Caster 24
Changing Caster 25
Toe-In and Toe-Out 25
Adjusting Front Toe-In / Toe-Out 26
Adjusting Rear Toe-In 26
Rear Anti-Squat 27
Rear Roll Center 28
Wheelbase 28
Rear Camber Link Adjustment Balls 29
Anti-Roll Bars (Available Option) 30
Front Anti-Roll Bar 30
Checking Front Anti-Roll Bar Functioning 30
Rear Anti-Roll Bar 31
Checking Rear Anti-Roll Bar Functioning 31
Checking forTweak 31
Checking for Front Tweak 32
Checking for Rear Tweak 33
Chassis Balancing
Chassis Weights 34
Weight Placement 34
Front of Chassis 34
Center of Chassis 34
Rear of Chassis 35
Fake Transponder 35
Mounting the Transponder in Front 35
Mounting the Transponder on the Side 35
Maintenance & Tips
Drive Train 36
Drive Train Binding 36
Belts 36
Belt Tensioner (Available Option) 36
Differentials 36
Suspension 36
Shocks 36
Ball Cups and Shock Ends 37
Bearings 37
Cleaning Bearings 37
Chassis Stiffening 37
Motor 37
Radio Equipment 38
Screws 38
Last-Aid Package 38
Replacement Mounting Hardware 38
Front Wheel Axle Disassembly 38
Contents
21
Car setup, a challenging task, is used to get your car to its maximum
performance. While knowledge of your car and knowing the theories of
handling dynamics is beneficial, it can be difficult to apply this knowledge
because of the inherent complexity in the setup process itself.
Your new T1R touring car with fully independent suspension was designed
to have optimum performance at any track, right out of the box. For the
top competition we suggest you learn all the best possible setup tips &
tricks so the car has the highest possible performance in every racing
condition.
We have developed these straight-forward procedures to help you set up
your T1R properly and easily. Always follow these procedures step-by-step,
in the order presented, and always make sure that you make equal
adjustments on both left and right sides of the car.
The setup described here is a good starting point, but you may adjust the
settings to better suit different track conditions. Only change one thing at a
time so you gain a better understanding of the effect of each change on
the car’s handling. Remember to document all the changes you make, and
the effects they have on your car and lap times.
XRAY publishes new setup information, hot tuning tips, and the latest hop-
ups for your T1R on the www.teamxray.com website. As a member of
www.myTSN.com, XRAY publishes all news at myTSN.com RC portal. As a
proud owner of a T1R, you can register your car at myTSN.com and you
may post your own setups to the website, either as public or private data,
and even link the setups directly to a particular track or event (providing
that those are present on myTSN.com).
We have used the following tools and accessories for perfect and optimal
adjustment:
#10 8201 HUDY Set-up Board for 1/10
#10 8211 HUDY Set-up Board Decal for 1/10
#10 9300 HUDY Universal Set-up for All 1/10 Touring Cars
#10 7702 HUDY Chassis Droop Gauge Support Blocks
#10 7712 HUDY Chassis Droop Gauge -3 to 10 mm
#10 7715 HUDY Ride Height Gauge
#10 7610
HUDY Caster Clip Remover Tool
#10 7880
HUDY Chassis Balancing Tool
#18 1030
HUDY 3mm Turnbuckle Tool
#10 7712
#10 7715
#10 9300
#10 8211
#10 8201
#10 7702
WARNING
The composite material is sensitive to very high temperatures. Prolonged
exposure to very high temperatures will damage the composite and may
cause it to deform. For example, do not leave the T1R in a sealed car
during hot days.
The composite material is also sensitive to prolonged exposure to water.
If you race the car in wet conditions, thoroughly dry the chassis after
each run; we recommend using compressed air. If water remains in the
chassis, the composite material will absorb the water which may result in
tweaked composite components.
In the event the chassis is exposed to extreme conditions and it becomes slightly
distorted (not perfectly flat) there is no need to worry. The unique construction of
the car, thanks to the ultra-stiff duraluminum bulkheads and top deck, will negate
any tweaking effects so the car will suffer no performance loss.

is a good starting point for your tuning. Remember not to change pinions
more than one tooth at a time, and that overgearing can damage your
motor.
It is typically quicker to change your pinion gear than your spur gear, but this
results in larger changes in gear ratios. If you want finer adjustment of gear
ratio, change the spur gear.
••MMoorreetteeeetthhoonnaappiinniioonn: Higher top-end speed. However, there is typically
less run time and slower acceleration. CCAAUUTTIIOONN::EExxcceesssshheeaattccaauusseeddbbyy
oovveerrggeeaarriinngg((ttoooollaarrggeeppiinniioonnggeeaarr))ccaannhhaarrmmyyoouurrmmoottoorroorreelleeccttrriiccss..
••FFeewweerrtteeeetthhoonnaappiinniioonn::, More run time, and better initial acceleration.
However, your car will attain less top-end speed.
Tailor the gearing according to track length and type (high-speed vs.
technical). For larger less technical tracks, top-end speed is usually more
important, so try a pinion that is a tooth larger than the chart. For smaller
more technical tracks, try using a pinion that is a tooth smaller than the chart.
NOTE: Adjust gear mesh so there is only a tiny amount of play between the
pinion teeth and the spur teeth.
Final Adjustments
RADIO ADJUSTMENTS
First, remove the servo horn from the
steering servo, and disconnect the motor
wires (DO NOT let the motor wires touch!),
then turn the transmitter on. Next, connect
the battery pack and turn on the speed control. Set the steering trim to
neutral on your transmitter, then reconnect the servo horn to the steering
servo so the steering horn is perpendicular as shown.
With the steering servo centered, use the transmitter to turn the steering left
and right, noting if the wheels turn in the proper direction. If not, change the
steering servo direction (servo reverse) on the transmitter and re-center the
servo horn on the steering servo if necessary.
Next, examine the car’s servo saver.
Use the steering link adjustment
(between the servo horn and the
servo saver) to get the servo saver as
centered as possible.
Next, examine the position of the
front wheels; they should be pointing
straight ahead. If not, adjust the two
steering rods equally until the wheels
point straight ahead.
When adjusting the servo, adjust the
steering so the steering block does
not turn to its maximum amount. If it
does, decrease steering throw with
your transmitter’s EPA setting, or with
the dual-rate setting if EPA is not
available. Failure to do so can
greatly reduce the life of your servo
and influence the racing
performance.
SPEED CONTROL (ESC) ADJUSTMENT
Set up the speed control according to the manufacturer's instructions.
NOTE: Some manufacturers require the motor to be connected during
adjustment.
CONNECTING THE MOTOR
Elevate the car on a stand so all four wheels can spin without touching
anything. Turn on the power again. Check the speed control and steering
settings once again to make sure they work properly. When finished, turn
off the power and disconnect the batteries.
MOTOR GEARING
Proper gearing is critical to get maximum performance from your motor.
The gear ratios listed in the chart are the recommended starting gear
ratios. Ratios can vary from track to track, however the suggestions we list
90°
Final Adjustments
4
3
Diff pulley 34T / one way pulley 16T
Drive ratio 2.125 : 1
Overall Gear Ratio Chart pitch 1/48”
87 90 93 96
20 10.20
21 9.71
22 8.98 9.27
23 8.59 8.87
24 8.23 8.50
25 7.65 7.91 8.16
26 7.36 7.60
27 7.08 7.32
28 6.60 6.83 7.06
29 6.38 6.59
30 6.16 6.38
31 5.96 6.17
32 5.78
33 5.60
34 5.44
Overall Gear Ratio Chart pitch 1/64”
116 120 124 128
27 10.07
28 9.71
29 9.09 9.38
30 8.78 9.07
31 8.50 8.77
32 8.23 8.50
33 7.73 7.98 8.24
34 7.50 7.75
35 7.29 7.53
36 7.08 7.32
37 6.66 6.89 7.12
38 6.49 6.71
39 6.32 6.54
40 6.16 6.38
41 6.01 6.22
42 5.87
43 5.73
44 5.60
45 5.48
pinion spur g. pinion spur g.

• For optimal performance, the rear diff should be as free as possible, with
minimal slippage.
• When the front diff is looser than the rear diff, steering response
increases.
• When the front diff is tighter than the rear diff, steering response
decreases, but there is more stability in the turns.
• A tighter rear diff makes the car understeer slightly into corners, but
makes the car more difficult to control out of corners (powerslides).
• Make sure that neither diff slips under power; this causes power loss and
excessive wear.
• On very high traction surfaces, adjust diffs tighter for better response.
TIP: If you are not concerned about the weight of the
differential (rotating weight) but long life and low wear
are important for you, we strongly suggest using the XRAY
Spring Steel Differential #305001, which has the longest
life in the RC industry.
TTiigghhtteenniinnggtthheeDDiiffffeerreennttiiaallss
Tightening the differential reduces the amount of pulley slippage, but also
make for a heavier (harder) diff action. Adjust the diff until you have the
desired amount of slippage and diff action. An overly loose differential
may loosen off when running, which may ruin the differential. The
differential can be tightened when it is either in or out of the car.
Insert a small Allen wrench into the aligned holes in the setscrew and long
diff shaft. Turn the long diff shaft 1/16 to 1/8 of a turn clockwise (CW) to
tighten. Remove the Allen wrench and recheck the diff.
LLoooosseenniinnggtthheeDDiiffffeerreennttiiaallss
Loosening the differential increases the amount of pulley slippage, but also
make for a easier (lighter) diff action. Adjust the diff until you have the
desired amount of slippage and diff action. An overly tight diff will put
more pressure on the diff balls and bearings, which may ruin the
differential. The differential can be loosened when it is either in or out
of the car.
Insert a small Allen wrench into the aligned holes in the setscrew and long
diff shaft. Turn the long diff shaft 1/16 to 1/8 of a turn counter-clockwise
(CCW) to tighten. Remove the Allen wrench and recheck the diff.
BBuuiillddiinnggtthheeDDiiffffeerreennttiiaallss
When you build the differential, do not tighten it fully initially; the
differential needs to be broken in properly. Tighten the diff very gently until
you feel some resistance. If you overtighten the diff initially, the diff balls
will mar the surface of the diff plates, damaging the diff balls and diff
plates. For exceptionally smooth operation and long diff life, use XRAY
Carbide Diff Balls #305091.
If you need to assemble/disassemble
the differentials, use needle-nose
pliers or circlip pliers to remove the
C-clip holding the axial bearing.
Final Adjustments
ROLLOUT
Rollout is a more precise way to set your car’s gearing because it takes into account tire
diameter, gear ratio, and transmission ratio. Rollout is defined as the distance a vehicle
moves forward per revolution of the motor. The car’s rollout changes as foam tire diameter
changes with tire wear, tire swap, and foam tire changes, even if you do not change your
gear ratio.
Rollout is affected by tire circumference. Calculate the tire circumference by doing the math:
Circumference = Tire diameter (in mm) x 3.14
If two cars have the same gear ratio, but one has larger diameter tires, that car will have a
larger rollout and higher top-end speed. Conversely, the car with smaller diameter tires will
have a smaller rollout and lower top-end speed. Note that using tires of different diameters
may also impact a car’s handling due to differences in clearance, tire squirm, and so on.
When setting up your car at a particular track and for a particular motor, we recommend
you speak with the local racers to see what a good rollout target number is. Try to match
the fastest racer’s rollout. Note that you cannot simply use the same pinion and spur
combination, as the tire diameter and transmission ratio may be different than the other
racer’s car. That’s when you want to consider rollout, in which the tire circumference and
transmission ratio are considered in addition to the spur/pinion ratio.
To calculate rollout, measure the circumference of the rear tire, determine the number of
teeth on the pinion and spur gears, and also the car’s transmission ratio (the T1 family has
a transmission ratio of 2.125). Then, plug those numbers into the following equations:
Rollout = Tire circumference ÷ final gear ratio
[where final gear ratio = (spur ÷ pinion) x transmission ratio]
Here is an example of rollout of an XRAY touring car using 58mm diameter foam tires.
Please note that if you run rubber tires (typically 63mm diameter), adjust the calculation
accordingly:
Transmission ratio = 2.125
Spur = 93T (48P)
Pinion = 24T (48P)
Tire diameter = 58mm
Tire circumference = 58mm x 3.14 = 182.12
Final gear ratio = (93 / 24) x 2.125 = 8.23
ROLLOUT = 182.12 / 8.23 = 22
Compare your car’s rollout with those of other racers’ cars. Now you have the option to
change your pinion or spur gears in order to get to the same rollout. You can also consider
changing the tire diameter. Remember that each change you make may have other impacts
on the performance of your car, so try to weigh all factors before making changes.
DIFFERENTIAL ADJUSTMENT
Differentials allow the wheels at opposite ends of the same axle to rotate at
different speeds. Why is this important? When a car turns in a circle, the
outer wheel has a larger diameter circle to follow than the inner wheel.
The outer wheel must travel further than the
inner wheel in the course of the circle, so it
needs to rotate faster to keep up. If the
differential is too tight, the result is that the
wheels "fight" each other for the proper rotation
speed; the result is a loss of traction.
Final Adjustments
5 6

goes all the way through the diff.
••To ttiigghhtteennthe front diff, rotate the
front right wheel ffoorrwwaarrdd((++)).
••To lloooosseennthe front diff, rotate the
front right wheel bbaacckkwwaarrdd((--)).
Tighten or loosen the diff in 1/8 turn
increments, checking the diff
tightness with each adjustment.
Initial Setting:
Diff action is is smooth, but tight
enough so that it takes high effort to
rotate the front right wheel when the
front left wheel and spur gear are
held tight.
AAddjjuussttiinnggtthheeRReeaarrDDiiffffeerreennttiiaall((iinnccaarr))
Place the car on the table with the rear end pointing towards you. To check
rear diff tightness, hold the rear right wheel and the spur gear with your
right hand, and try to rotate the rear left wheel bbaacckkwwaarrddwith your left
hand. If the rear left wheel rotates too easily, you need to tighten the rear
differential.
The diff output shaft on the right side has a hole in it. Place a small hex
wrench into the hole. Rotate the rear left wheel until the wrench goes all the
way through the diff.
••To ttiigghhtteennthe rear diff, rotate the
rear left wheel bbaacckkwwaarrdd((++)).
••To lloooosseennthe rear diff, rotate the
rear left wheel ffoorrwwaarrdd((--)).
Tighten or loosen the diff in 1/8 turn
increments, checking the diff
tightness with each adjustment.
Initial Setting:
Diff action is smooth, but tight
enough so that it takes high effort to
rotate the rear left wheel when the
rear right wheel and the spur gear
are held tight.
Run the car for approximately one
minute, then recheck the diffs
following the steps above.
Hint: The chassis is designed so that
you can very easily adjust the
tightness of the differentials without
disassembling the car. Simply
remove the body, lock up the diff by
inserting a thin Allen wrench through
the aligned holes, and adjust the diff.
CChheecckkiinnggtthheeDDiiffffeerreennttiiaallSSlliippppaaggee
Slide two wrenches into the slots on
both sides of the diff shafts. Hold
both wrenches in one hand and try
to turn the pulley; it should take
some force to get the pulley to slip
between the two outdrives.
CChheecckkiinnggtthheeDDiiffffeerreennttiiaallAAccttiioonn
Remove the wrenches from the diff
outdrive slots. Hold the pulley
stationary in one hand, and rotate
one of the diff shafts. The other
output shaft should rotate, and the
diff action should feel smooth.
TTiigghhtteenniinnggtthheeDDiiffffeerreennttiiaall
((oouuttooffccaarr))
Insert a small Allen wrench into the aligned holes in the setscrew and long
diff shaft. Turn the long diff shaft 1/16 to 1/8 of a turn clockwise (CW) to
tighten. Remove the Allen wrench and recheck the diff.
LLoooosseenniinnggtthheeDDiiffffeerreennttiiaall((oouuttooffccaarr))
Insert a small Allen wrench into the aligned holes in the setscrew and long
diff shaft. Turn the long diff shaft 1/16 to 1/8 of a turn counter-clockwise
(CCW) to tighten. Remove the Allen wrench and recheck the diff.
BBrreeaakkiinnggIInntthheeDDiiffffeerreennttiiaallss
Differentials must be broken in properly to operate properly. When
breaking in the diff, the balls create a groove in the diff rings; this is
normal and essential for proper operation. If you tighten the diff fully the
first time you build it, the ball will not create a proper groove, and will
become damaged. When you put the diff in the car and complete the
assembly, run the car for a few minutes, tighten the diff a little bit, and then
recheck the diff. Repeat this process several times until you have the diff
tightened to the point you want it.
Final adjustments should ALWAYS be made with the diff in the car and on the
track.
AAddjjuussttiinnggtthheeFFrroonnttDDiiffffeerreennttiiaall((iinnccaarr))
Place the car on the table with the
front end pointing towards you. To
check front diff tightness, hold the
spur gear with your right hand and
hold the left front wheel against the
table with your right forearm, and
try to rotate the front right wheel
bbaacckkwwaarrddwith your left hand. If the
front right wheel rotates too easily,
you need to tighten the front
differential.
The diff output shaft on the left side of
the car has a hole in it. Place a small
Allen wrench into the hole, and rotate
the front right wheel until the wrench
Final Adjustments
7 8
Final Adjustments

The one-way differential should be used only on high traction surfaces where
braking ability by the rear wheels alone is sufficient.
Keep in mind that when using the one-way pulley with a loose setting, or
when using the one-way differential, no drag brake should be used. Most
racers will also find it more convenient to set their radio to give less braking
action (use the throttle EPA setting). This will prevent the rear tires from
locking unexpectedly.
FRONT SOLID AXLE (available option)
The optional front Alu Solid Axle (#30 5180) is
best suited for carpet tracks or short tracks
with a lot of traffic, where maximum effective
braking is required. Off-power steering is
reduced.
The front solid axle should be used only at the front
of the car, with a rear differential and original solid
central layshaft. Using this configuration, the car achieves
maximum 4WD braking, while being very stable and easy to drive.
SHOCKS
Shocks, or shock absorbers, are a part of the suspension
that allow the wheels to keep as much contact
with the running surface as possible. The T1R
features unique 4-step externally-adjustable
racing shocks that do not require you to
change pistons or change shock oil to alter
the damping. Damping, mounting position, spring
tension, and spring preload are all characteristics that determine how the
shock performs.
SSpprriinnggss
The shock springs support the weight of the car, and different spring
tensions determine how much of the car's weight is transferred to the wheel
relative to the other shocks. Spring tension also influences the speed at
which a shock rebounds after compression.
Spring selection depends on the whether the track is fast or slow, or has high
or low traction.
Final Adjustments
10
9
TRACK SURFACE ONE-WAY PULLEY ONE-WAY FRONT
LOCKED LOOSENED DIFFERENTIAL
Low traction
Medium traction
(slow, tight corners)
High traction
(slow, tight corners)
High traction
(fast, sweeping corners)
✔
✔✔
✔✔
Final Adjustments
ONE-WAY PULLEY (available option)
To be able to adjust the over-steer/under-steer
balance, we suggest using the #305500 Main
Layshaft With Adjustable One-Way. The one-
way pulley allows the front wheels to spin
independently of the rear wheels. Our unique
one-way system lets you determine how freely the
front wheels spin. A plastic locknut on the main layshaft can
be fully tightened to lock the front wheels to the rear (full-time
4WD) or loosened to let the front wheels “free-wheel” off power (4WD on
throttle, RWD off throttle). Or it can be set anywhere in between to match
your driving style.
LLoooosseerrOOnnee--WWaayyPPuulllleeyy
The main effect of a looser one-way
pulley is more off-power steering.
However, this should only be done
on high-traction surfaces or large
tracks where minimal braking is
required. Since only the rear wheels
are used for braking, spins induced
by a locked rear tire are more likely.
One of the benefits of a looser one-
way pulley is less drive train drag at
maximum speed, which can increase
top-end speed.
To loosen the one-way pulley, hold the locknut securely with pliers, then
rotate the spur gear backward. The locknut will back away from the fixed
pulley and move away from the pullies.
NOTE: Pull the fixed pulley away from the one-way pulley to let the front belt
move freely without binding.
TTiigghhtteerrOOnnee--WWaayyPPuulllleeyy
The one-way pulley should be
tightened under slippery conditions,
if you need to reduce steering, or if
heavy braking is needed.
To tighten the one-way pulley, hold the
locknut securely with pliers, then rotate
the spur gear forward. The locknut will
tighten against the fixed pulley and
move toward the pullies.
ONE-WAY FRONT DIFFERENTIAL (available option)
The optional front one-way differential
(#30 5101) has independent one-way bearings
for each front wheel so the two front wheels can
rotate at different rates like a regular differential.
On throttle, if one wheel loses traction, the other
still gets power to pull the car through the turn.
Under braking, the front wheels spin freely, giving
better cornering ability but reducing overall braking ability.

SShhoocckkPPoossiittiioonn
The upper and lower shock mounting positions determine how much
leverage the lower suspension arm has on the shock when compressing it,
and the progressiveness of the suspension. Different shock position settings
change how the shock reacts to compression.
••SShhoocckkssmmoorreeiinncclliinneedd::Makes the car more progressive, giving a smoother
feel and more lateral grip (side-bite). When all four shocks are inclined it
makes the car very easy to drive, and it feels like the car has more grip,
but it is not always fastest.
••SShhoocckkssmmoorreevveerrttiiccaall::Makes the car have a more direct feel, but less
lateral grip.
••FFrroonnttsshhoocckkssmmoorreeiinncclliinneeddtthhaannrreeaarrsshhoocckkss::Makes the steering feel very
smooth and there will be slightly more mid-corner steering. Mounting the
rear shocks very upright can result in the rear feeling unpredictable and
more nervous in corners.
••RReeaarrsshhoocckkssmmoorreeiinncclliinneeddtthhaannffrroonnttsshhoocckkss::Makes the car feel
aggressive turning into a corner, but most of the time the car will have
slightly less steering. The car will have abundant lateral grip in the rear,
so turning radius won't be very tight.
FFrroonnttSShhoocckkss--
UUppppeerrMMoouunnttiinnggPPoossiittiioonn
There are three upper shock
mounting positions on the front
shock tower.
Initial Setting:
Front shocks: Position #2
FFrroonnttSShhoocckkss--
LLoowweerrMMoouunnttiinnggPPoossiittiioonn
There are two lower shock mounting
positions on the front lower arms.
••OOuutteerrppoossiittiioonn##22: More stable,
less steering. The stiffer front
suspension makes the car more
stable.
••IInnnneerrppoossiittiioonn##11: Softer damping,
better steering. The softer front
suspension reduces rear traction,
causing the car to lose stability.
Initial Setting:
Front shocks: Outer position (#2)
Final Adjustments
••SSttiiffffeerrsspprriinnggss::Makes the car more responsive. The car reacts faster to
steering inputs. Stiff springs are suited for tight, high-traction tracks that
aren't too bumpy. Usually when you stiffen all of the springs, you lose a
small amount of steering, and reduce chassis roll.
••SSoofftteerrsspprriinnggss::Makes the car feel as if it has a little more traction in low-
grip conditions. Better for bumpy and very large and open tracks.
Springs that are too soft make the car feel sluggish and slow, and allow
more chassis roll.
••SSttiiffffeerrffrroonnttsspprriinnggss::Makes the car more stable, but with less front
traction and less steering. It will be harder to get the car to turn, and
turning radius increases. The car will have much less steering exiting
corners. On very high-grip tracks, or if the track itself feels tacky or sticky,
very stiff springs are preferred.
••SSoofftteerrffrroonnttsspprriinnggss::Makes the car have more steering, especially in the
middle and exit of a corner. Front springs that are too soft can make the
car oversteer.
••SSttiiffffeerrrreeaarrsspprriinnggss::Makes the car have less rear traction, but more
steering in the middle and exit of a corner. This is especially apparent in
long, high-speed corners.
••SSoofftteerrrreeaarrsspprriinnggss::Makes the car have more rear traction in corners,
through bumpy sections, and while accelerating.
SSpprriinnggPPrreellooaadd
Spring preload should only be used
to alter ride height. Adjust the
spring collar on the shocks so that
the springs are only slightly
compressed when the car is fully
equipped, ready-to-run. To change
the characteristic of the springs,
change to a softer or harder spring
rather than loosening or tightening
the springs.
Hint: File a small notch on the top of
each spring collar so you can tell
when you have adjusted it one full
rotation.
Final Adjustments
12
11
VVIIOOLLEETT
Medium
(#30 8396)
PPUURRPPLLEE
Medium-hard
(#30 8397)
RREEDD
Hard
(#30 8398)
BBLLUUEE
Soft-medium
(#30 8395)
YYEELLLLOOWW
Super-soft
(#30 8393)
WWHHIITTEE
Soft
(#30 8394)
XXRRAAYYSSpprriinnggTTeennssiioonnss
1
12
23

SShhoocckkDDaammppiinngg
Shock damping influences the responsiveness of the chassis during
cornering, and helps to maintain proper contact between the tire and the
road surface during vertical movement. No shock damping means that the
spring rate determines how long it takes for the spring to compress and the
suspension to reach a stable position.
Setting the right damping is always a compromise and requires a lot of
"hands on" experience.
Damping only comes into play when the suspension is moving, and loses its
effect when the suspension has reached a stable position. When the shock is
compressing or rebounding (decompressing), the shock absorber oil resists
this movement. The two factors that determine the speed at which the shock
reacts are the thickness of the oil and the piston valving (the number of holes
in the shock piston the oil passes through).
DDaammppiinnggaannddSShhoocckkPPiissttoonnss
Shock dampening manages the resistance of the shock as the piston moves
up and down through the oil in the shock body.
••SSooffttddaammppiinngg::Produces the most grip (both front and rear) through chassis
roll, but also decreases cornering speed.
••HHaarrddddaammppiinngg::Allows the car to break traction more easily, but with less
chassis roll and higher cornering speed.
Initial Settings:
Front shocks: 2 holes open (medium-
hard)
Rear shocks: 4 holes open (softest)
Initially, the damping should be set
separately for the front and rear so
the car quickly settles when dropped
from approximately 5 cm (2"). If the
car bounces before settling, the
shocks are too stiff. If the bottom of
the chassis hits the table, the shocks
are too soft.
Shock pistons affect shock damping
by affecting how easily the piston
travels through the shock oil when
the shock is compressed or is
rebounding (decompressed). The
piston has holes through which shock
oil flows as the piston travels up and
down inside the shock. The number
of holes helps control how quickly the
shock compresses or rebounds.
••LLeessssppiissttoonnssooppeenn::Harder damping, reacts like using thicker shock oil.
••MMoorreeppiissttoonnssooppeenn::Softer damping, reacts like using thinner shock oil.
Final Adjustments
RReeaarrSShhoocckkss--
UUppppeerrMMoouunnttiinnggPPoossiittiioonn
There are five upper shock
mounting positions on the rear
shock tower.
Initial Setting:
Rear shocks: Position #3
RReeaarrSShhoocckkss--
LLoowweerrMMoouunnttiinnggPPoossiittiioonn
There are three lower shock
mounting positions on the rear
lower arms.
••OOuutteerrppoossiittiioonn##33::Harder
damping, less grip, less chassis
roll. Stability decreases. High-
speed cornering (traction
permitting) increases.
••MMiiddddlleeppoossiittiioonn##22::Optimum position for most tracks.
••IInnnneerrppoossiittiioonn##11::Softer damping, higher stability. Traction increases,
chassis roll increases. Not good for fast corners.
Initial Setting:
Rear shocks: Middle position (#2)
SShhoocckkOOiill
••TThhiicckkeerrooiill::Slower shock action, slower chassis weight transfer from side-
to-side or front-to-rear. In general, slower shock action means less
traction, but slower weight transfer means the car is less likely to become
unsettled with sharp direction changes such as in chicanes.
••TThhiinnnneerrooiill::Faster shock action, faster chassis weight transfer. Faster shock
action means the suspension can work faster to keep the tire in contact with
the surface quicker, resulting in more traction. However, the chassis is more
susceptible to chassis roll and becoming unsettled in sharp direction
changes such as in chicanes.
Thicker shock oil requires the use of heavier springs to compensate for the
heavy damping action. Likewise, thinner oil requires lighter springs.
We recommend using only highest-grade XRAY Silicone Shock Oil, which is
available in numerous weights. This shock oil is specially formulated to be
temperature resistant and low-foaming.
Final Adjustments
14
13
1
2
3
4
20W
(#30 9520)
30W
(#30 9530)
40W
(#30 9540)
50W
(#30 9550)
1
123
2345

overheat towards the end of a race. Molded inserts are heavier, but they
retain heat better.
The density of an insert has a direct impact on the car’s performance.
••HHaarrddeerr((ddeennsseerr))iinnsseerrttss::Less rolling resistance, increased cornering. Firm
inserts are better for quick direction changes, since they'll scrub off less
speed in high-speed chicanes. Inserts that are too hard can cause the car
to be loose.
••SSoofftteerr((lleessssddeennssee))iinnsseerrttss::More rolling resistance, more traction. Soft
inserts give a little more grip, and they also make the car easier to slide;
the difference between gripping and slipping (one end sliding out) isn't as
harsh. Soft inserts allow you to 'throw' the car into the corner, and they
probably make the car easier to drive. Inserts that are too soft may cause
your car to wander and be very unstable.
TTrraaccttiioonnCCoommppoouunndd
Traction compound (also known as tire conditioner or “traction sauce”), is a
compound that is applied to tires to enhance the performance of the tires.
It softens the rubber and creates more grip.
Before you apply traction compound, it is best to clean the tire surface. Use
a brush to remove any residue or debris on the tires. Then, you can use
motor spray or alcohol on a rag, or commercially-available name-brand tire
cleaners, to clean the tires.
After you clean the tires, apply an appropriate amount of traction compound
to the surface of the tire. If possible, apply at least a half-hour before you run
the car. Wipe off any excess traction compound. This will help soften the tires
and provide you with needed traction.
The best place to use traction compound is on a prepared surface that has
limited traction. Do not use it when you are running on a dirty or dusty
surface (such as a parking lot or in the street in front of your house) because
the tires will become coated with a layer of dust and the car will slide around
even more.
If you are going racing, be sure to ask the racers or the race directors what
type of traction compound is best, or if it is even allowed.
BODY AERODYNAMICS
Aerodynamics play an important role in the performance of the car. One
body may simply work better than another body. Aerodynamic effects are
more apparent at higher speeds, and have less influence in slower corners.
BBooddiieess
Typically, blunt-nosed bodies are more stable, but have less steering than
bodies with a sloped nose. A body with high downforce will provide higher
traction through the turns. However, high downforce usually comes at the
expense of drag, so the car may not be the fastest on a long straightaway.
WWiinnggss
Another important consideration in body aerodynamics is the rear wing,
which aids in rear traction. Wings are a vital part of the car’s stability.
Final Adjustments
XRAY shocks can be assembled with non-adjustable or adjustable pistons.
The non-adjustable pistons use a 1-piece piston with 1, 2, 3 or 4 holes in it.
The XRAY adjustable pistons use a unique 2-piece piston assembly that can
be easily adjusted to align 1, 2, 3, or 4 holes.
••MMoorreehhoolleessiinnppiissttoonn::More oil can pass through the piston as the piston
moves. This means less resistance to shock movement, less damping, and
faster shock movement.
••FFeewweerrhhoolleessiinnppiissttoonn::Less oil can pass through the piston as the piston
moves. This means more resistance to shock movement, more damping,
and slower shock movement.
We recommend you change both the shock oil weight and number of holes
in the pistons for best effect.
TIRES, WHEELS, and INSERTS
Tires, wheels, and inserts are probably the most important factors in getting
the best performance from your car. Getting them right is the first thing you
should do. All XRAY touring cars accept all popular touring car tires,
including foam tires.
TTiirreess
When you arrive at the track with a basic car setup, select the best tires and
inserts for your track, then fine-tune your setup. Check with the other racers
who frequent your track for a good starting point.
Here are some general guidelines when choosing tires:
• Use treaded or radial pattern tires on dusty or unprepared surfaces,
and use slicks on high-traction prepared surfaces.
• Select the rubber compound according to the track temperature.
Higher temperatures usually require harder compounds.
• Try using softer tires all around for more traction.
• For more steering or front traction, try softer tires in front than those
in the rear.
Regularly rotate your tires from side to side for even wear. If the same
compound and inserts are used on all four corners, then rotate front to rear
as well.
IInnsseerrttss
Rubber touring car tires require tire inserts to retain their shape; typically
these inserts are made from foam or molded foam rubber. Sponge-type
inserts are much lighter, (less rotating mass means quicker acceleration),
but they don't retain heat as well. So it's more likely that the tires will
Final Adjustments
16
15
1 hole open 2 holes open 3 holes open 4 holes open

FFrroonnttDDoowwnnssttooppss
Using the #10 7712 measuring
gauge, measure the distance from
the reference surface to the bottom
screws of the C-hub block (which
pivots the steering blocks). Positive
numbers indicate the distance (in
mm) ABOVE the level of the support
blocks (or, above the bottom of the
chassis). Negative numbers indicate
the distance (in mm) BELOW the
level of the support blocks (or, below
the bottom of the chassis).
Adjust the front downstop screws so
the bottom screws of the C-hub block
(which pivots the steering blocks) are
at the recommended setting on the
gauge.
Initial Setting:
3mm on gauge. (Actual
measurement = 3mm above
the level of support blocks).
Downstop settings depend on track
condition. The above setting was for
smaller tires (approx. 63 mm) and a
smooth track.
RReeaarrDDoowwnnssttooppss
Using the #10 7712 measuring
gauge, measure the distance from
the reference surface to the bottoms
of the rear uprights. Positive
numbers indicate the distance (in
mm) ABOVE the level of the support
blocks (or, above the bottom of the
chassis). Negative numbers indicate
the distance (in mm) BELOW the
level of the support blocks (or,
below the bottom of the chassis).
Adjust the rear downstop screws so
the bottoms of the rear uprights are
at the recommended setting on the
gauge.
Initial Setting:
3mm on gauge. (Actual
measurement = 3mm above
the level of support blocks).
There are numerous ways to adjust a rear wing to achieve different
handling characteristics and downforce. For example, you can mount a
wing higher or further back on the body to create more rear downforce.
Some wings even allow you to change their angle, or use different canards
(side plates). Most bodies typically come with a rear wing, and some
aftermarket wings are available which allow even more adjustments.
Experiment with bodies that have different frontal areas and different wing
shapes to find the one that works best for you. Like most other tuning
parameters, body style is also a compromise. Experiment to find out what
bodies work best at your track.
TRACK-WIDTH
Front track-width affects the car's understeer and steering response.
The T1R has a fixed track-width of 189mm that is optimal
for all racing conditions.
DOWNSTOPS
Downstops limit how far the suspension arms travel downward, which
determines how far upwards the chassis rises. The amount of downward
suspension travel affects the car's handling, as it directly impacts the weight
transfer of the chassis. Restricting upward chassis travel (more downstop)
reduces the weight transfer of the chassis, making the car more stable.
Allowing more upward chassis travel (less downstop) increases the weight
transfer of the chassis, making the car more responsive but less stable; it is
also better on a bumpy track. The effect may change with the type of track
and/or amount of grip available. It is very important to adjust the
downstops so the left and right sides are equal. Downstops are checked
with the chassis elevated above a reference surface.
Hint: Use Hudy Set-up Board and Droop Gauge Tool.
Perform these initial steps:
1. Remove the wheels from the car. Disconnect anti-roll bars if mounted.
2. Place the #10 7702 support blocks on the reference surface, then place
the chassis on the elevating blocks.
Final Adjustments
Chassis Setup
17
Chassis Setup
18

Try using a slightly lower ride height
for high traction conditions, such as
carpet racing.
RRiiddeeHHeeiigghhttaannddTTiirreess
Ride height is measured with the wheels on the car, and the car ready-to-
run. When using rubber tires, your ride height settings should stay
consistent, since rubber tires do not wear down appreciably and reduce
ride height. However, if using foam tires, ride height changes as the foam
tires wear down to smaller diameters. Note that the tires may wear at
different rates front-to-back, and left-to-right, which may eventually result
in a car with uneven ride height at all four corners. When possible, true
your foam tires (left and right pair at a time), and re-adjust your ride height
periodically to compensate for tire wear.
RRiiddeeHHeeiigghhttaannddSSuussppeennssiioonnSSeettttiinnggss
Suspension settings are unaffected by the wheels/tires you put on the car.
When you use a setup system (such as the Hudy Universal Set-Up System
(#10 9300) to set your suspension settings, these settings do not change
when you put different wheels on the car. With the car sitting on the
ground, it may appear that certain settings are different, but this may be
due to uneven tires, or tires with different diameters. However, the settings
you set using a set-up system are the true suspension settings.
ACKERMANN AND STEERING THROW SYMMETRY
Ackermann is a term describing the
effect of the inside front wheel
turning tighter than the outside front
wheel. Ackermann is used to
achieve better steering through the
corners.
When setting up your steering, it is
very important that turning radii are
the same when the car is turning
either left or right. Put the car on a
Hudy Set-Up System to make sure
that the steering turns as sharply to
the left as it does to the right. If it is
not the case and if your transmitter has EPA (End Point Adjustment) settings,
adjust the EPA on your transmitter in order to achieve left/right symmetry.
Downstop settings depend on track
condition. The above setting was for
smaller tires (approx. 63 mm) and a
smooth track.
If you find the car has too much
steering going into a corner off
throttle or while braking, try adding
1mm to the rear downstop setting.
This will cut down on the amount of
weight that is transferred away from
the rear tires when off throttle.
RIDE HEIGHT
Ride height is the height of the chassis in relation to the surface it is sitting
on. Measure and adjust ride height with the car ready-to-run but without
the body. Use the shock preload collars to raise and lower the ride height.
Perform these initial steps:
1. Prepare the car ready-to-run, without body.
2. Place the car on Hudy Set-up Board and use #10 7715 Ride Height
Gauge to measure the ride height in front and rear.
Use the shock preload collars to raise or lower the ride height.
••TToorraaiisseetthheerriiddeehheeiigghhtt::Tighten the shock preload collars. Collar moves
DOWN the shock body.
••TToolloowweerrtthheerriiddeehheeiigghhtt::Loosen the shock preload collars. Collar moves
DOWN the shock body.
Initial Settings:
Front ride height: 4.5mm
Rear ride height: 5.0mm
Chassis Setup
RIDE HEIGHT FRONT RIDE HEIGHT REAR
20
19
Chassis Setup
STEERING
STEERING

Initial Settings:
Servo saver: INNER inner holes (position #1)
Steering block: OUTER holes (position #2)
The initial Ackermann setting gives a comfortable driving feeling. However,
you can use the optional Ackermann positions on the servo saver if you want
a more aggressive steering feeling. Be aware that the car may be more
difficult to drive.
FRONT ANTI-DIVE
Front anti-dive refers to the angle at
which the front suspension is
mounted in relation to horizontal
when looked at from the side of the
car.
There are two possibilities for front
anti-dive:
••UUppppeerrhhoollee((33°°aannttii--ddiivvee))::Works
well in bumpy conditions, due to
the constant caster angle when
the suspension is compressed.
However, steering is not as
responsive as the 0° anti-dive
setting.
••LLoowweerrhhoollee((00°°aannttii--ddiivvee))::Gives
more aggressive steering when
braking and especially while
cornering, due to a decrease in
caster when turning off-throttle.
NOTE: Only use the two lower holes
for front anti-dive. The front upper
hole is a production hole.
Front anti-dive is very easy to adjust. Loosen the four screws that mount the
front lower suspension pin holders. Then remove the two screws that hold
the FRONT pair of lower suspension holders, and pivot the front of the
lower arms up or down to align with the upper or lower front holes.
Replace the two screws and tighten all four screws. Check for freedom of
movement.
Initial Setting:
Front anti-dive: 3° (upper hole)
Note: The anti-dive setting impacts the caster setting. To get the true caster
setting, add the value of caster block to the front anti-dive value. For example,
if you have 3° caster block and set 3° anti-dive, the overall caster setting is 6°
caster.
Chassis Setup
When adjusting the steering servo, adjust the steering so the steering blocks
do not turn the maximum amount. If they do, decrease steering throw with
your transmitter's EPA setting, or dual-rate setting if EPA is not available.
The steering system is designed with the optimal Ackermann setting for a
touring car. However, you can use the optional Ackermann positions to fine-
tune your car’s steering.
CChhaannggiinnggtthheeAAcckkeerrmmaannnnSSeettttiinngg
Move the two steering rods to the outer holes on the servo saver. Note that
you must decrease the length of both the left and right steering rods by 5mm
each when you change to the outer holes on the servo saver, while keeping
the steering rods in the steering block outer holes.
Connecting the steering rods to the various holes on the servo saver and the
steering blocks gives the following steering characteristics:
SStteeeerriinnggbblloocckkIINNNNEERRhhoolleess##11,,aanndd......
••SSeerrvvoossaavveerriinnnneerrhhoolleess##11::Equal steering of wheels. Smooth and neutral
steering through the whole corner.
••SSeerrvvoossaavveerroouutteerrhhoolleess##22::Different steering of wheels, inner wheel
closes in more. Steering into corner is smoother. Steering in mid-corner
and exiting corner is more aggressive.
SStteeeerriinnggbblloocckkOOUUTTEERRhhoolleess##22,,aanndd......
••SSeerrvvoossaavveerriinnnneerrhhoolleess##11::Same as steering block INNER/servo saver
INNER (above), except effect is more exponential.
••SSeerrvvoossaavveerroouutteerrhhoolleess##22::Same as steering block INNER/servo saver
OUTER (above), except effect is more exponential.
Chassis Setup
22
21
3° ANTI DIVE
0° ANTI DIVE
1
1
2
2

••OOuutteerrppoossiittiioonn##33: More stable, less traction.
••MMiiddddlleeppoossiittiioonn##22: Optimum position for most tracks.
••IInnnneerrppoossiittiioonn##11: More traction, less stability.
Initial Setting:
Front camber link: Middle position #2
AAddjjuussttiinnggRReeaarrCCaammbbeerr
Adjust rear camber using the rear
upper camber link.
••SShhoorrtteerrlliinnkk::More negative camber.
••LLoonnggeerrlliinnkk::Less negative camber.
Initial Setting:
Rear camber: -1.5° (tops of rear
wheels leaning inwards)
RReeaarrCCaammbbeerrLLiinnkkPPoossiittiioonn
The position and length of the rear
camber link affects the car’s roll
center, which affects rear traction. In
general, the longer the link, the
more rear traction there is. The rear
uprights provide two camber link
positions. Switching from one
position to the other requires
lengthening or shortening of the
rear upper camber links to maintain
an appropriate driving camber
angle.
••OOuutteerrppoossiittiioonn##22: More traction, less stability.
••IInnnneerrppoossiittiioonn##11: More stable, less traction.
Initial Setting:
Rear upper camber link: Inner position #1
CASTER
Caster describes the angle of the
C-hub block with respect to a line
perpendicular to the ground. Caster
angle affects on- and off-power
steering, as it will tilt the chassis
more or less depending on how
much caster is applied.
••LLeessssccaasstteerr(more vertical):
Increases OFF-power steering
INTO a corner, but decreases
straight-line stability.
••MMoorreeccaasstteerr(more laid-down): Increases ON-power steering OUT OF a
corner, and increases straight-line stability, but makes the car harder to turn
into a corner. It also makes the car more stable through bumpy track
conditions.
Chassis Setup
CAMBER
Camber is the angle of the wheels
relative to the ground when looked
at from the front or back.
••NNeeggaattiivveeccaammbbeerr::The tire leans
inward at the top.
••PPoossiittiivveeccaammbbeerr::The tire leans
outward at the top.
Camber affects the car's traction. In general, more negative camber means
increased grip since the side-traction of the wheel increases. Do not use
more than -2.5° camber, and NEVER use positive camber.
The amount of front camber required
to maintain the maximum contact
patch largely depends on the amount
of caster. Higher degrees of caster
require little or no camber, while
lower degrees of caster require more
negative camber.
Perform these initial steps:
1. Remove wheels.
2. Put the car on the
Hudy Set-Up System.
3. Press down the suspension of the
car a few times to let the suspension
settle.
AAddjjuussttiinnggFFrroonnttCCaammbbeerr
Adjust front camber using the front
upper camber link.
• SShhoorrtteerrlliinnkk::More negative
camber.
• LLoonnggeerrlliinnkk::Less negative camber.
Initial Setting:
Front camber: -1.0° (tops of front wheels
leaning inward)
FFrroonnttCCaammbbeerrLLiinnkkPPoossiittiioonn
The position and length of the front
upper camber link affects the car’s
roll center, which affects front
traction. In general, the steeper the
angle of the camber link, the more
front traction there is. The front
shock tower provides three different
camber link positions, some of
which require lengthening or
shortening of the front upper
camber links to maintain an
appropriate driving camber angle.
NOTE: Always use the same link positions on both sides of the car.
Chassis Setup
23
CAMBER
+-
1
1
2
3
2
CASTER
24

AAddjjuussttiinnggFFrroonnttTTooee--IInn//TTooee--OOuutt
Front toe-in is adjusted with the steering rods that connect the servo saver
to the steering blocks. Making the steering rods longer will create more
toe-in, while making them shorter will create more toe-out. Be sure to
adjust both steering rods in equal amounts to reach the desired toe angle.
Measure front toe-in using the Hudy Set-Up System.
Initial Setting:
Front toe-in: 0° (front wheels are parallel)
AAddjjuussttiinnggRReeaarrTTooee--IInn
Rear toe-in is adjusted by adding or removing clips between the bulkheads
and the rear lower suspension pin holders (at the BACK of the bulkheads).
This angles the rear lower arms forward or backward. The initial rear toe-
in setting is 3°.
To change rear toe-in, loosen the screws that hold the rear lower suspension
pin holders (at the BACK of the bulkheads) to the bulkheads. Then, slide a
clip onto the screw, between the holder and the bulkhead. The thicker the
clip, the more rear toe-in. Tighten the screw to secure the pin holders.
Make sure you add the same thickness of clip to both left and right sides.
The following table indicates the effect of adding rear toe-in clips.
Chassis Setup
The C-hub blocks that hold the
steering blocks have a specific
amount of caster molded into them.
Initial Setting:
Front caster: 3°, left and right
Note: The anti-dive setting impacts the caster
setting. To get the true caster setting, add the value of caster block to the
front anti-dive value. For example, if you have 3° caster block and set 3°
anti-dive, the overall caster setting is 6° caster.
CChhaannggiinnggCCaasstteerr
To change the caster angle, you must change the front C-hub blocks to
those with a different caster angle. When changing the C-hubs, you must
use left and right C-hubs that have the same caster angle.
XRAY offers several different C-hub blocks of different caster angles and
different compounds:
TOE-IN & TOE-OUT
Toe-in is the angle of the wheels as looked at from directly above the car.
When the wheels are parallel the toe-in is 0°. When the front of the wheels
are pointing away from each other, that is called toe-out. When the front of
the wheels are pointing in towards each other, that is called toe-in.
Toe-in is used to stabilize the car, but at the cost of traction. If the car is
oversteering (the rear end loses traction before the front end) extra front toe-
in may reduce oversteer, but it also decreases steering. If the car is
understeering (the front end loses traction before the rear end) extra front
toe-our (or extra rear toe-in) may help, but this makes on-power cornering
more difficult.
Front toe-in makes the car easier to drive by improving stability during
acceleration, and gives a slight increase in steering exiting corners. Front toe-
out increases steering when entering corners, but makes the car slightly more
difficult to drive.
Perform these initial steps:
1. Remove wheels.
2. Put the car on the Hudy Set-Up System.
3. Turn the radio and receiver on, and turn the wheels left and right to let the
steering set into the neutral position.
4. Press down the suspension of the car a few times to let the suspension settle.
Chassis Setup
25 26
TOE OUT
TOE IN
TOE OUT
TOE IN
FRONT C-HUB BLOCKS, COMPOSITE
3° RIGHT SOFT # 302281
3° LEFT SOFT # 302283
6° RIGHT SOFT # 302285
6° LEFT SOFT # 302287
3° RIGHT MEDIUM # 302282
3° LEFT MEDIUM # 302284
6° RIGHT MEDIUM # 302286
6° LEFT MEDIUM # 302288
FRONT C-HUB BLOCKS, ALU
0° RIGHT+LEFT HARD # 302275
3° RIGHT HARD # 302276
3° LEFT HARD # 302277
6° RIGHT HARD # 302278
6° LEFT HARD # 302279

holes. Replace the two screws and tighten all four screws. Check for freedom
of movement.
Initial Setting:
Rear anti-squat: 3° rear anti-squat (holes 3 and 1)
RReeaarrRRoollllCCeenntteerr
You can alter the car’s rear roll center by moving the rear lower suspension
holders to both upper positions (upper holes 3 and 4 = 0° anti-squat).
WHEELBASE
The wheelbase can be adjusted in a 9mm range. This feature enables you
to adjust the car for all conditions: asphalt or carpet, fast or technical. The
wheelbase is very easy to adjust using removable adjustment clips on the
rear lower pivot pins.
••SShhoorrtteerrwwhheeeellbbaassee::More aggressive, better turning. Rear traction is
increased by placing more weight behind the rear arms. Shorter
wheelbases are better on carpet tracks.
••LLoonnggeerrwwhheeeellbbaassee::More stable, but rear traction is reduced. Longer
wheelbases are better on smooth, fast tracks especially asphalt tracks
with long corners.
The initial setup of the T1R uses non-removable shims to adjust the
wheelbase to 258mm, which is optimum for most track conditions.
If you want to adjust the wheelbase, remove the original shims on the rear
lower pivot pins, and replace them with replaceable adjustment clips.
To remove the original shims, remove the rear lower hinge pins, remove the
shims, then reinstall the rear lower hinge pins. After the rear lower arms are
again in place, snap the adjustment clips onto the pivot pins. Make sure you
put the proper clips in front of and behind the rear lower arm. We
recommend using only the 2, 3, and 4mm clips. You can also use the 1mm
clips, but keep in mind that the sum of all clips used must always total 9mm.
••LLeessssssppaacceerrssiinnffrroonnttooffrreeaarraarrmm::Shorter wheelbase.
••MMoorreessppaacceerrssiinnffrroonnttoofftthheerreeaarraarrmm::Longer wheelbase.
Hint: Use the Hudy Caster Clip Remover (#10 7610) for easy adjustments.
No clips = 3° rear toe-in
1mm clip = 2° rear toe-in
2mm clip = 1° rear toe-in
If you want to change the rear
toe-in by 0.5°, use a 0.5mm shim.
Never use more than 3.0° or less than 1.0° (except maybe when using foam
tires on carpet).
REAR ANTI-SQUAT
Rear anti-squat refers to the angle at
which the rear suspension is
mounted in relation to horizontal
when looked at from the side of the
car.
There are two possibilities for rear
anti-squat:
••00°°aannttii--ssqquuaatt((lloowweerrhhoolleess22aanndd11))::
Improves acceleration in bumpy conditions, and gives more lateral grip
(side bite) on-power and while braking. The car will be easier to drive in
low-grip conditions, and the rear end will slide more easily.
••33°°aannttii--ssqquuaatt((hhoolleess33aanndd11))::Provides good rear traction, makes the rear
end more sensitive to throttle input. The car will have more steering while
braking, and slightly more steering when powering out of corners.
Rear anti-squat is very easy to adjust. Loosen the four screws that mount the
rear lower suspension pin holders to the rear bulkheads. Then remove the
two screws that hold the FRONT pair of lower suspension holders, and pivot
the front of the lower arms up or down to align with the upper or lower front
28
27
INSERT
CLIP
WHEELBASE
Chassis Setup
3° ANTI SQUAT
0° ANTI SQUAT
Chassis Setup
1
2
3
4
1mm
2mm
3mm
4mm

ANTI-ROLL BARS (available option)
Anti-roll bars are used to stabilize the car from excessive chassis roll, which
occurs when the car leans in the turns due to centrifugal force. Anti-roll
bars are generally used on smooth, high-traction tracks. If the conditions
are very bumpy, anti-roll bars may not be necessary.
FFrroonnttAAnnttii--RRoollllBBaarr
If you are driving on a high traction
surface and the car is oversteering,
use the optional front anti-roll bar
kit (#30 2460). This decreases front
chassis roll and steering, giving
more rear traction.
Anti-roll bar adjustment is performed
with disconnected shocks.
CChheecckkiinnggFFrroonnttAAnnttii--RRoollllBBaarr
FFuunnccttiioonniinngg
1. First, be sure you have adjusted
the downstops equally on both
sides.
2. Place the car on the flat board
and disconnect the shocks.
3. Lift up the front right wheel very
slowly. When the front left wheel
starts to lift off the surface, note how
far the front right wheel has been
lifted.
4. Do the same thing on the other
side. Lift up the front left wheel very
slowly. When the front right wheel
starts to lift off the surface, note how
far the front left wheel has been
lifted.
5. When properly adjusted, both
wheels should start to move up at
the same lifted position of the other
wheel. If this is not the case, then
the anti-roll bar needs to be
adjusted.
6. Make sure the wire is not
tweaked. If it is, correct it by
carefully bending it straight.
7. If the wire is straight, try to
decrease or increase the height of
the pivot link on one of sides by
adjusting the distance of the pivot
balls. Adjust it little by little until
both wheels move up at the same
lifted distance.
Initial Setting:
Wheelbase: 6mm (2+4mm) in front
of arm, 3mm behind arm
RReeaarrCCaammbbeerrLLiinnkkAAddjjuussttaabblleeBBaallllss
When adjusting the wheelbase, you need to adjust the distance that the
adjustable ball protrudes from the rear bulkhead.
••SShhoorrtteerrwwhheeeellbbaassee::Extend ball further out of rear bulkhead
••LLoonnggeerrwwhheeeellbbaassee::Push ball further into rear bulkhead.
Initial Setting:
Ball extends 10mm from rear bulkhead
To change the length of the adjustable balls, loosen the setscrew in the top
of the rear bulkhead, and slide the ball in or out according to the wheelbase
setting.
Make sure that the left and right settings match. For accuracy, use the depth
gauge of a caliper to measure the distance between the top of the ball and
the side of the bulkhead.
Use the following table as the guideline to calculate the wheelbase setting.
Chassis Setup
0 4+3+2 252
1 4+4 253
2 4+3 254
3 4+2 255
4 3+2 256
3+2 4 257
4+2 3 258
4+3 2 259
4+4 1 260
4+3+2 0 261
Clips (mm) Clips (mm) Wheelbase (mm)
before arm behind arm
Clips (mm) Clips (mm) Wheelbase (mm)
before arm behind arm
29
Chassis Setup
30

RReeaarrAAnnttii--RRoollllBBaarr
If you are driving on a high traction
surface and the car is understeering,
use the optional rear anti-roll bar
(#30 3400). This decreases rear
chassis roll and rear traction, giving
more steering.
CChheecckkiinnggRReeaarrAAnnttii--RRoollllBBaarr
FFuunnccttiioonniinngg
1. First, be sure you have adjusted
the downstops equally on both
sides.
2. Place the car on the flat board
and disconnect the shocks.
3. Lift up the rear right wheel very
slowly. When the rear left wheel
starts to lift off the surface, note how
far the rear right wheel has been
lifted.
4. Do the same thing on the other
side. Lift up the rear left wheel very
slowly. When the rear right wheel
starts to lift off the surface, note how
far the rear left wheel has been
lifted.
5. When properly adjusted, both
wheels should start to move up at
the same lifted position of the other
wheel. If this is not the case, then
the anti-roll bar needs to be
adjusted.
6. Make sure the wire is not
tweaked. If it is, correct it by
carefully bending it straight.
7. If the wire is straight, try to
decrease or increase the height of
the pivot link on one of sides by
adjusting the distance of the pivot
balls. Adjust it little by little until
both wheels move up at the same
lifted distance.
CHECKING FOR TWEAK
A "tweaked" car is an unbalanced car, and has a tendency to pull to one
side under acceleration or braking. Tweak is caused by an uneven wheel-
load on one particular axle. Now that the suspension geometry set-up has
been completed, you must check for suspension tweak before you
reconnect the anti-roll bars (optional).
Perform these initial steps:
1. Place the car on a flat reference surface.
2. Make sure that both front and rear anti-roll bars are disconnected.
CChheecckkiinnggffoorrFFrroonnttTTwweeaakk
Lift and drop the front end of the car a few centimeters to let the
suspension settle. Place a sharp tool underneath the chassis at its middle
point, and lift the front end.
If one front wheel lifts before the other, the rear of the car is tweaked. Adjust
the preload on the REAR springs until
both front wheels lift at the same
time.
If, for example, the front right wheel
lifts earlier, you must increase the
preload on the rear left spring, and
decrease the preload on the rear
right spring.
You must adjust both rear springs,
otherwise you will change the
camber settings.
Reconnect the rear anti-roll bar, and
check for tweak again by lifting the
front end of the car. If again one
front wheel lifts before the other, the
rear anti-roll bar may be tweaked.
Check the rear anti-roll bar with
both shocks disconnected from the
arms and with the chassis
suspended on blocks. Make sure
that the downstop adjustments are
set equally. Then adjust the length
of one or both rear anti-roll bar
push rods until both front wheels lift
Chassis SetupChassis Setup
31 32

at the same time. There might happen that the wire is tweaked and
therefore the suspension with connected anti-roll bars is tweaked as well.
Carefully straighten the wire, and then check for tweak again. Both wheels
must start lifting up at the same time.
CChheecckkiinnggffoorrRReeaarrTTwweeaakk
Lift and drop the rear end of the car a few centimeters to let the suspension
settle. Place a sharp tool underneath the chassis at its middle point, and lift
the rear end. If one rear wheel lifts before the other, the front of the car is
tweaked.
Adjust the preload on the FRONT springs until both rear wheels lift at the
same time.
If, for example, the rear right wheel lifts earlier, you must increase the
preload on the front left spring, and decrease the preload on the front right
spring.
You must adjust both front springs, otherwise you will change the camber
settings.
Reconnect the front anti-roll bar, and
check for tweak again by lifting the
rear end of the car. If again one
front wheel lifts before the other, the
front anti-roll bar may be tweaked.
Check the front anti-roll bar with
both shocks disconnected from the
arms and with the chassis
suspended on blocks. Make sure
that the downstop adjustments are
set equally. Then adjust the length of
one or both front anti-roll bar push
rods until both rear wheels lift at the
same time. There might happen that
the wire is tweaked and therefore
the suspension with connected anti-
roll bars is tweaked as well.
Carefully straighten the wire, and
then check for tweak again. Both
wheels must start lifting up at the
same time.
34
33
Chassis Setup
For advanced balancing, you can
use Hudy’s Chassis Balancing Tool
(Hudy #10 7880), a simple, easy to
use balancing tool. The chassis has
two small holes on the underside
front and rear, along the centerline.
To check the chassis left/right
balance, place the two balance tools on a flat stable surface, and then
place the chassis on the tips of the tools; the points fit into the chassis’s
centerline balancing holes. Steady the chassis with your hand, and tilt it so
it is level. When you let go of the chassis, the chassis may fall to one side
or the other side. If it does this, it is not balanced. If the chassis stays level
without falling to one side, it is balanced.
CHASSIS WEIGHTS
Hudy offers the following additional balancing weights:
#30 9820 Additional Weights for Chassis Balancing (front - 2 pcs)
#30 9830 Additional Weights for Chassis Balancing (rear - 6 pcs)
These round weights can be used almost anywhere on the chassis.
If you need to load the front suspension, or simply add central mass to the
car, you can use the following:
#30 9850 Additional Flat Weights for Chassis Balancing (center - 3 pcs)
WWeeiigghhttPPllaacceemmeenntt
Chassis weight adjustment depends on the type of the track. If the track
has more left corners, put more load on the left side. If the track has more
right corners, put more weight on the right side.
The chassis has several locations at which you can secure balancing
weights.
Front of Chassis
The front of the chassis does not have holes to which weights can be
attached with screws. If you want to add weights to the front of the chassis,
you can attach them with double-sided servo tape. You can also drill small
holes in the chassis so you can attach the weights with screws.
Center of Chassis
The chassis has a central channel
into which you can attach the flat
center weights from the bottom with
screws. When possible, we strongly
recommend mounting the flat center
weights using this method, as it
keeps the weight central and at the
lowest possible CG.
Attach the flat center weight with the tapered end towards the rear of the
car.
Chassis Balancing

36
DRIVE TRAIN
Check the drive shafts, wheel axles and differential pulleys for wear.
Excessive wear may cause these transmission joints to lock-up and affect
the suspension movement. Also check the middle layshaft and belts and all
gears. Remove any debris (dirt, pebbles, carpet fibres) which may have
become embedded between the teeth.
We recommend putting a little grease on the plastic blades at the end of
the drive shafts and onto the drive shaft coupling.
DDrriivveeTTrraaiinnBBiinnddiinngg
Disconnect the pinion gear and pull the belt. If there is binding in either the
front or rear belt, one or more of the bearings may either be installed
improperly or worn out. Check the bearings that support the diff outdrives
(in the bulkheads) and the ones that support the axles (in the rear uprights
and steering blocks).
BELTS
The belts should not be taut like a guitar string. They should be loose
enough that you can wobble the belt up and down, but tight enough that
the belt does not slip off a pulley under braking or acceleration.
BELT TENSIONER
(available option)
The T1R chassis was designed to
eliminate any fore/aft chassis flex.
The Kevlar-reinforced belts resist
stretching longer than most others.
There is an optional belt tensioner
available (#30 3070), but it will
mostly likely not be required on the T1R. The T1R has special bulkheads
and eccentric ball-bearing hubs that allow you to adjust front and rear belt
tension without having to use an the optional front belt tensioner.
DIFFERENTIALS
You should rebuild the differentials when they get a "gritty" feeling. Clean
all parts with motor spray, then reassemble and re-adjust them. If they still
feel gritty, the diff washers and steel balls should be replaced. If the gritty
feeling remains, check the small 3x8 axial ball-bearing (thrust ball-bearing)
and washers, and replace as necessary.
SUSPENSION
Disconnect the shocks and check the suspension for free movement. A tight
arm may indicate a bent pivot pin, which should immediately be replaced.
Excess play indicates that a pivot pin holder is worn. Check for the correct
orientation of the plastic suspension holders. They should be in the same
direction.
SHOCKS
Check the shocks for proper functioning. Check for air bubbles and make
sure that the left and right sides have the same damping setting.
Maintenance & Tips
35
Rear of Chassis
The rear of the chassis has holes on the left and right sides to which
weights can be attached with screws. The larger, heavier round rear
weights can be used, as well as the smaller, lighter round front weights.
The rear of the chassis also has left and right locations to which the
transponder mount can be attached. When possible, we recommend using
the transponder to balance the chassis.
FAKE TRANSPONDER
If you are preparing for a race where transponders will be used, you will
benefit from practicing with weight distribution you will be actually racing
with.
Hudy's Fake Transponder (Hudy #10
7890) has the same weight and
dimensions as a real transponder, and
using it is a great way to check the
weight distribution on your car, fully
equipped, ready-to-run with transponder.
MMoouunnttiinnggtthheeTTrraannssppoonnddeerriinntthheeFFrroonntt
The front upper bumper holder can be
easily modified to place a
transponder in the front bumper.
Using a Dremel moto-tool to
remove the cross-brace molded into
the upper bumper holder. Then,
remove a section of the foam
bumper for the transponder to sit in.
Take proper precautions when using
tools, and use proper eye and hand
protection.
XRAY also offers an optional Precut Foam Bumper For Transponder
(#30 1221) and optional Graphite Upper Holder For Precut Bumper
(#30 1214).
Mounting the Transponder on the Side
The included transponder mount
can be mounted on the left or right
side of the chassis. When possible,
we recommend using the
transponder to balance the chassis
instead of using balancing weights.
Maintenance is of utmost
importance to achieve maximum
performance, reliability, and
longevity. First, maintain your car, and then work on chassis setup. Before
every race, examine the following items:
Chassis Balancing
CUT
CUT

RADIO EQUIPMENT
Check your radio equipment, speed control, motor and batteries for proper
functioning.
SCREWS
When assembling or rebuilding your T1R, if you find that a screw has an
eccentric or defective head, exchange it for the same type in the "last-aid-
package". If you mount the eccentric screw on the chassis instead of
exchanging or replacing it, the screw might tweak the chassis and
negatively influence the car's handling.
LAST-AID PACKAGE
The kit includes a small package with some mounting hardware. We have
prepared and included this special "last-aid-package" for times when you
might lose some of the smaller hardware, either during assembly or when
racing. We know how distracting that situation can be, especially when you
want to keep focused on properly preparing your T1R for the track. This
package contains a few spare pieces of each fastener and clip used on
your T1R that should help you if you get caught in that situation.
REPLACEMENT MOUNTING HARDWARE
Contact your XRAY dealer for replacement mounting hardware, using the
following part numbers:
#30 9300 Hardware Mounting Package
#30 9310 Wheels Mounting Hardware (4+4)
#30 9320 Hex Screw Set for T1 (30)
#30 9400 Body Clip (8)
#30 9401 Long Clip For Transponder (2)
FRONT WHEEL AXLE DISASSEMBLY
In an extreme crash, the front wheel axle may be pressed out, which will
make it hard to disassemble the wheel axle and exchange it, because the
assembly will be recessed inside the steering block.
If this happens, support the block a few centimeters off the table with metal
or wood blocks, and let the hex axle point down towards the table.
Use a small hammer to tap on the end of the drive shaft (you may want to
first remove the plastic blade) until the axle and bearing assembly can be
easily removed from the steering block.
Use a file to remove any material from the
wheel axle that was pressed out along with the
axle assembly.
Maintenance & Tips
38
37
BALL CUPS AND SHOCK ENDS
If there is excess play (side-to-side, or lateral play; this doesn't refer to the
'looseness' of the ball cup) in these parts, you need to replace the plastic
part so you get a more responsive suspension setup.
BEARINGS
Freely-rotating bearings are one of the most important factors in getting
maximum performance from a car's drive train. Be especially sure that the
bearings in the steering blocks and rear uprights, as well as the bearings
supporting the ball diffs, are perfectly clean and rotate freely. Check all the
bearings, including the one-way bearing, for wear.
If the bearings start to feel gritty, they should be cleaned and lubricated.
CClleeaanniinnggBBeeaarriinnggss
Remove the bearings from the car, and brush or wipe off any surface dirt
or grime. If you have a bearing cleaner, put the bearing inside and spray
with motor cleaner. If you don’t have a bearing cleaner, put the bearings
in a film canister, and fill 1/2 way with motor cleaner. Put the cap on the
canister, and shake the canister for several few minutes.
Remove the cleaned bearing and wipe off excess cleaner. Then lubricate
ball-bearings with a light oil (for ball-bearings), or one-way oil (for one-
way bearings). If the bearings still feel gritty after being cleaned and
lubricated, or if the bearing races develop excessive play, they may need to
be replaced.
CHASSIS STIFFENING
To stiffen the chassis, we recommend
using the optional #301161 Graphite
Stiff Top Deck.
MOTOR
Between every run, carefully inspect the brushes to ensure that they move
freely in the brush hood. Do this by removing the spring and sliding the
brush in and out of the hood. If the action is not smooth, remove the brush
and wipe it clean. This will help ensure that the brush gets proper contact
with the commutator.
Also after every run, remove the brushes from the hoods and examine the
brush face for wear and/or burning. If there is noticeable wear, replace
them with a fresh pair. If the tip is a purple or blue color, that means they
have been overheated and burnt. Burnt brushes have more resistance that
fresh ones, so be sure to replace them if they are burnt.
Thoroughly clean the brushes every other run. Spray motor cleaner directly
on the commutator area through the brush hoods. Spray in short bursts
until the runoff is clear and clean. After cleaning, apply a small amount of
lightweight oil to each bushing or bearing. Be careful not to apply too
much oil, since this will pick up dirt and contaminate the commutator and
brushes. We recommend you rebuild the motor after every 10 runs by
cutting the commutator. If you have a motor with low winds and high-
capacity batteries, we recommend cutting the commutator more often. We
recommend using lathes from the RC accessory manufacturer with the
highest quality - HHUUDDYY®®.
Maintenance & Tips