Elite Greenhouses 7'5'' VANTAGE User manual

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PARTS LIST
* Made up of 2 side rails, 1 top rail, 1 bottom rail and 1 slam bar.
** Made up of 1 top panel, 1 bottom panel and 3 intermediate panels.
4x7 6x7 8x7 10x7 12x7 14x7 16x7 18x7 20x7
1 Ridge 111111111
2Gutter/Eave 222222222
3Side built in base cill 222222222
4Side angle/Diagonal tie bar 224446888
5Door end built in base 222222222
6Door end cill 111111111
7Rear end built in base cill 111111111
8Rear end horizontal angle
Taped
together
and marked
door end
111111111
9Long door end glazing bar 222222222
10 Short door end glazing bar 111111111
11 Door end diagonal angle 222222222
12 Short horizontal angle 222222222
13 Short rear end glazing bar Taped
together and
marked rear
end
222222222
14 Long rear end glazing bar 111111111
15 Rear end diagonal angle 222222222
16 Corner bars in 2 packs of 4 888888888
17 Roof bars 246810 12 14 16 18
18 Side bars 246810 12 14 16 18
19 Roof diagonal angle 222224444
20 Roof vent pack* 112223456
21 Door panel pack** 222222222
22 Door posts (2 handed/2 un-handed ) 111111111
23 Small cantilever brace 002430000
24 Large cantilever brace 0000610 13 16 19
25 Bag of fittings 111111111
26 Glazing beading (m) 65 78 92 103 117 131 144 158 172
27 Gusset plates—eave/ridge 4/2 4/2 4/2 4/2 4/2 4/2 4/2 4/2 4/2
28 Door end ramp 111111111
29 Casement stays 112223456
30 Top door track 111111111
31 Door track support 111111111
32 Rectangular base plate (3 holes) 222222222

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HELPFUL HINTS AND ADVICE
 Please do take your time and be sure to read all instructions carefully before assembling.
 Do not assemble frame in high winds.
 The greenhouse frame must be anchored to a permanent foundation. This will not only help
secure it against powerful winds, but will help prevent breakage of the glass caused by the
freezing and thawing process of the earth. (Key point).
 When building your own brick/concrete foundations ensure that they are level and square oth-
erwise your frame will not be correct and the glass will not fit.
 Be sure all four corners of the constructed greenhouse are square before installing glass, and
do not install the glass until the greenhouse is on a permanent foundation.
 Do not place your greenhouse in vulnerable locations such as under trees, playing areas etc.
 Children should not play near glass greenhouses.
 REMEMBER: Glass is fragile. Handle with extreme care! (Key point).
 Protective clothing such as gloves, strong outer clothing and eye glasses should be worn.
 Be careful when using agricultural chemicals such as fertilisers, fungicides and insecticides
etc. in the greenhouse. Do not use chemicals that are for outside use only. Always read the
labels very carefully.
 Do not push or lean on the glass panels.
 Use extra care when moving heavy or awkward objects such as tables, poles, internal frames
etc. within or near the greenhouse.
 Do not latch the door when anybody is inside the greenhouse.
 Be aware of the increased temperature of the greenhouse on a sunny day.
 Do not keep pets or other animals in a greenhouse.
 When cleaning glass, do not exert too much pressure.
 When constructing a painted model please take care not to damage the finish by working on
concrete or patios.
 We reserve the right to alter and improve our products.
If your greenhouse is a painted one there are a few 1/8” holes in the ends of some bars. These are jig
holes for painting and have no bearing on construction. (Key point).
Powder coated packages are wrapped in polythene tubing – please be careful when opening e.g. Do
not run a knife down the sides as you can scratch the paintwork.
Various video’s on selected installation processes are available on our website.
www.elite-greenhouses.co.uk

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DETAILED ASSEMBLY INSTRUCTIONS
The contents of this carton are divided into the different frame assemblies that collectively
make up the completed unit.
It is recommended that each frame assembly is fully completed before moving on to the next.
The frames to be constructed are as follows:
SIDE FRAME – Two off.
REAR GABLE – One off.
DOOR GABLE)– One off.
ROOF VENT – One for 4 x 7, 6 x 7, two for 8 x 7, 10 x 7 and 12x7, three for 14 x 7, four for 16 x
7, five for 18 x 7, six for 20 x 7.
DOORS – 2 x 18” doors.
Additional parts such as the ridge, roof bars, eaves ties etc. are put on “loose” and are not pre-
constructed into an independent frame. The partition, if appropriate is constructed in situ and not as
an independent frame.
WE CAN NOW COMMENCE WITH THE ASSEMBLY

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SIDE FRAME ASSEMBLY
From the main box you require: Pack of side glazing bars marked “side”.
Pack of gutters and side angles.
Built in base side cills.
From the pack of fittings you need: Nuts and bolts and glazing beading.
PROCEDURE. For the point of this plan we have used a 12’ x 7’ side as an illustration. The proce-
dure is identical for a 6’ x 7’ and 20’ x 7’ apart from, you need more or less side bars, nuts and
bolts, glazing beading and longer or shorter gutters and cill. (Key point).
If you have purchased a partition with your greenhouse you will have 2 less roof and 2 less side
bars. These are replaced with an extra set of corner bars. You must decide where the partition is to
be situated and at that point leave out one side bar on each of the side frames. (Key point). The par-
tition is constructed when the greenhouse is fully erected prior to glazing. Full details of this proce-
dure are given later, but for the time being do nothing apart from the omission of the side bar. If you
have not purchased a partition disregard this and future notes relating thereto.
The base is integrated with the cill for each side of the greenhouse, and is assembled onto each sub-
assembly rather than separately laid out.
1. Lay out the pieces on the ground as though you were standing inside the house, i.e. with the gut-
ter and built in base cill facing downwards, and the bolt channels of the glazing bar(s) upwards.
(Key point). Slide the glazing beading into the V grooves of the glazing bars.
2. Slide a bolt into each end of each glazing bar. (If you have bought a shelf to go in your green-
house and you intend to fit it on a side wall, use the ½ headed bolts provided with the shelf fittings
these can be inserted later).
For the 8’ model, slide 1 extra bolt into the middle glazing bar of each side.
For 10’ models, slide an extra bolt into the 2nd and 3rd glazing bar.
For 12’ models – 2nd, 3rd And 4th bars and so on as the length of the building increases,
these will enable the fitting of a cantilever brace during general assembly later in the plan.
3. Fix the combined eaves bar/gutter to the glazing bar(s) by pushing the bolts through the holes in
the eaves bar, and securing with a nut. You do not need to tighten the nuts too much at this stage,
but they need to be tight enough to stop the bolts slipping out of the glazing bar.
4. Fix the built in base cill to the middle glazing bar by pushing the bolt through the hole in the cill
unit and tightening.
5. Correctly position the built in base cill on the outer most glazing bars by pushing the bolts
through the holes in the cill, but do not put the nuts on yet.
6. Place the angled tie bars over these bolts so that they point outwards towards the ends of eaves
bar. They must be so arranged that the flat bit of the angle in each case faces towards the middle of
the house (i.e. the elongated slit will be by the eaves in one case and by the cill in the other). (Key
point).
7. Do not attach the angle tie bar to the end of the eave/gutter at this stage.

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8. Put nuts on bottom bolts and lightly tighten.
9. Do the same with the other side frame assembly.
10. Make sure that the glazing bars reach both the built in base cill and the eaves in each case.
Tighten all nuts.
11. If you intend to fit any Elite accessories (louvers, shelf, staging) they will be packed with ½
head bolts to enable them to be retro fitted. You do not need to pre insert any bolts for these acces-
sories.
12. If you are fitting your greenhouse onto hard standing (flags, concrete etc.), then insert bolts into
the bolt channel of the built in base (generally 1 every 2’). These will be used to anchor the green-
house to the floor during general assembly.
If your greenhouse is over 12’5” in length, you will need to attach the side base sections together to
form the length of your greenhouse. You will notice that you have 4 side base pieces, 2 of which
will be un-fabricated at 1 end. These 2 sections are handed sections and must be fitted to the correct
side assembly.
The un-fabricated end of the base will be joined to the unhanded base section as shown below. It is
essential that the un-fabricated end is towards the middle of the greenhouse side assembly and not at
one of the ends.
To attach the 2 base pieces together you must attach 2 corner bracket/base legs back to back, bolt
them together and attach the vacant end of each corner bracket/base leg to the bolt channel of the
base section as shown. Your gutter section will be in one piece and will not need to be joined
(except where greenhouse is over 20’5”).

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SIDE FRAME ASSEMBLY
WELL DONE! YOU HAVE SUCCESSFULLY COMPLETED THE 2 SIDE FRAMES!

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REAR END ASSEMBLY
For the construction of this frame you require from the
main box: 1 pack of corner bars marked “corner bars”,
1 rear end pack marked “rear end”, 1 rear end built in
base cill marked “rear end” and 1 rear end horizontal
brace marked “rear end”. 2 corner bracket/base legs
(approx. 400mm long).
From the pack of fittings you need: nuts and bolts,
glazing beading and gusset plates – 1 large (ridge
plate) 2 small (eave plates). These plates are not in the
pack of fittings but are taped up with the casement
stays elsewhere in the box.
1. Starting with the pack of corner bars split the tape
holding them together and first identify the 2 roof bars
from the 2 side bars. The side bars are longer and have a mitre at one end of the bar. The other end
has no hole and is square cut. The roof bars have 3 holes in the flange and are mitred at both ends
and in addition have a letter ‘R’ written at the apex on the outside of the bar. N.B. If your green-
house is a painted one, the roof corner bars will not be marked with a letter ‘R’. They can be identi-
fied from the side bars as outlined above. (Key point).
The bars are also handed so you must identify the left and the right hand. Standing up, hold one side
bar vertically in your left hand and the other in your right. Rotate the bars so that the 2 bolt slots are
facing towards you, with the mitres at the top (inside view). Viewed this way the two mitres should
run down to each other. The roof bars can be handed similarly, keeping the blot slots facing inwards
and the letter ‘R’ to the top. (With a painted model, the top can be identified by observing the holes
in the flange. The two holes nearest the end are at 50mm and 33mm centres. The 50mm end is the
top i.e. nearest the ridge). On the outside you can identify them by ensuring that the ‘R’s (indicating
ridge) are at the top, the mitres will then run into each other.
2. Slide the glazing beading into the 3 vertical glazing bars and the 4 corner
bars, taking care not to stretch the material. Trim off any surplus level with the
end of the bars. N.B. The corner bars have 3 grooves to receive the glazing
bead; do not put any in the middle one. (Key point).

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REAR END ASSEMBLY

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3. Lay out the components of the frame on the ground as though you were standing on the inside i.e.
with the bolt slots uppermost. Ensure that, having correctly identified the roof from the side corner
bars, left and right hands (see previous text) you have the roof bars with the letter ‘R’ (indicating
ridge) at the top on the outside, i.e. towards the ground. (Key point).
4. Slide 2 bolts into each corner bar bolt slots (facing inwards) 1 at the top and 1 at the bottom. Put
a nut on and lightly tighten, leaving them approx. 2” from the end of each bar. These will be used
later in the general assembly.
5. Starting at the apex (2 corner bars opposite each other marked ‘R’) slide 1 bolt into the other bolt
slot i.e. the one that is facing upwards and is set at 90º to the other – 4 above. (Key point).
6. Place the ridge gusset plate (larger of the 2 types) over the bolt, slide the plate left or right until
the slotted hole in the plate lines up with the locating hole in the flange nearest to the end of the cor-
ner bar. Put nuts on both bolts i.e. flange and plate, finger tip tighten only. (Key point).
7. Do exactly the same with the other roof corner bar ensuring that the two bars are pressed tight up
together behind the ridge gusset plate.
8. Now moving to the eave gusset assembly, slide one bolt into the other bolt slot (the one that is
facing upwards and is at 90º to 4 above). Place the eave gusset plate (smaller of the 2 types) onto
the bolt and move it left or right until the next hole in the plate lines up with the locating hole in the
top of the side corner bar. Place a bolt through the hole and put a nut on finger tip tight only. (Key
point). At this stage do not put a nut on the first bolt.
9. Do the same with the other part of the eave gusset plate, ensuring that both corner bars are tight
up against each other behind the eave plate.
10. Repeat steps 8 and 9 at the other corner with another eave gusset plate.
11. Attach the bottom built in base cill, marked “rear end” in the box, to the left and right hand side
corner bars by inserting a bolt into the facing bolt slot. Line the bolts up with the 2 slotted holes at
the end of the cill, put nuts on and tighten up ensuring that the corner bars are pushed right down
into the angle of the cill. (Key point).

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12. You can now attach the 3 vertical glazing bars to the built in base cill in a similar manner to 11
above, the longer bar to the middle hole, and the shorter ones to the outer holes. Before attaching
the nuts to the shorter glazing bars place the diagonal angles onto the bottom bolt and put a nut on
finger tip tight only. Attach the other end of the angle brace to the bottom bolt of the eave gusset
plate, put on the nut and finger tip tighten. (Key point). Do the same with the other diagonal brace.
13. Moving to the top of the greenhouse, insert 3 bolts into the
shorter two glazing bars and 2 bolts into the longer glazing bar.
14. Now you can attach the long angle horizontal brace marked
“rear end” in the box to the top bolts of the eave gusset plates. The
angle should be facing upwards, put the nuts on and finger tip tight-
en.
15. You can now attach the 3 vertical glazing bars to the roof/corner
bars. Slide the last bolt in each bar you inserted in 13 above to the
end of each bar and insert them through the holes in the flange of
the roof corner bar, place the nuts on and finger tip tighten.
16. Slide the second bolt previously inserted in 13 above to the middle of the bar and line it up with
the hole in the diagonal brace, put the nuts on finger tip tight. (Key point).
17. Now attach the horizontal brace to the 3 upright glazing bars utilising the final bolts you insert-
ed in 13 above. Put the nuts on finger tip tight. (Key point).
18. Slide a bolt into the bolt slot in the built in base section, one at each end. Attach the corner
bracket/base leg so that it is pointing downwards. If you are fitting your greenhouse onto soft
ground, then do not fit the corner bracket/base leg yet. If you are on a patio, you will need to cut the
corner bracket/base leg off level with the bottom of the built in base and slide extra bolts into the
bolt channel to be attached to the anchor brackets (generally 1 every 2’). If you are on soil, the cor-
ner bracket/base leg will go into the ground at general assembly.
19. The rear end is now almost complete. Before tightening all nuts check the corners to ensure they
are tightly up against each other and that all the vertical bars are tight up against the angle of the
rear end cill and corner bars. Tighten all nuts; the rear end is now complete.

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DOUBLE DOOR END ASSEMBLY
Components required
Door end cill
Built in base cill
3 End glazing bars
2 Rectangular plates with 3 holes
2 Short horizontal braces
2 Roof corner bars (marked ‘R’)
2 Side corner bars (unmarked)
1 Main door track support
1 Top door track
2 Diagonal angles
2 Base legs/corner brackets (approx. 400mm long)
You will also require 2 eave plates and 1 ridge plate. These are packed with the casement stay and
are separate from the main bag of fittings.
From the main bag of fittings you need: nuts and bolts, glazing beading and gusset plates – 1 large
(ridge plate) 2 small (eave plates). Remember, these plates are not in the pack of fittings but are
taped together with the casement stays elsewhere in the box!
PROCEDURE: The format for the double door end is identical to the rear end assembly up to and
including step 10 so please refer to those items in the previous pages.
1. Now attach the small built in base section to the corner bars, leaving a space for
the doors in between.
2. Now engage the door end cill with the 2 built in base cills by pushing the angle of
the cill under the locator as shown in the diagram. At this stage the cill will move
freely left and right but will remain located to the built in base cill.
3. Slide 2 bolts into the bottom of each glazing bar and 3 bolts (only 1 if greenhouse
to be sited on soft ground) into the free end of each built in base section. Attach the
2nd bolt in the glazing bar to the hole in the door end cill, but do not put a nut on yet.
4. Attach the rectangular plate (with 3 slotted holes) to the 2 bolts inserted in the
glazing bars and the last bolt inserted into the base ensuring that the glazing bar is
tight down into the angle of the door end cill. Attach the diagonal angle to
the top bolt of the rectangular plate, and then to the bottom bolt of the eaves
gusset plate. The 2 unoccupied bolts in the base sections will be used to an-
chor the greenhouse to the floor.
5. Attach a corner bracket/base legs to each end of the rear end built in base
and the outside ends of the 2 front built in base sections. These will be used
later to attach the sides to the end assemblies.

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6. Slide 2 bolts into the top of the 2 long glazing bars. Attach the short horizontal brace to the 1st
pre inserted bolt of the long glazing bars and then in turn attach the other end of the horizontal brace
to the top bolt of the gusset plate. (Key point).
7. Attach the main door track support (shaped like a letter Z) to the 2nd pre inserted bolt in the long
glazing bars. This ‘Z’ shaped bar must be fitted with the two outside slots facing upwards (as illus-
trated) not downwards. The position to fix the main door track support is at the top of the long glaz-
ing bar at the point where it meets the roof corner bar (using the pre fabricated hole in the roof cor-
ner bar).
8. Stand the frame up and bolt the door track to the main door track support by inserting 3 bolts into
the bolt slot of the door track. Position the bolts through the 3 holes in the door track support above
the door opening. Position the top door track centrally and then tighten up.
9. Now fit the small glazing bar above the door track to the hole in the centre of the door track sup-
port, and then to the middle (of 5) hole in the ridge gusset plate.
10. Check that all joints are tight and all braces are in position, and then tighten up all nuts. The end
is now complete.
N.B. Please note carefully the correct position of the main door support. The slotted holes at either
end are facing skywards NOT downwards. (Key point.)
You have now completed the 4 main frames of the structure which can now be joined together.
You need not do this procedure on the base but any flat surface near the greenhouse site. If your
base is prepared however, you can carry out the assembly there to save lifting it on later. But before
this we construct the vents and doors.

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DOUBLE DOOR ASSEMBLY

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ROOF VENT ASSEMBLY
The roof vent pack has 5 pieces of aluminium: and from the main box of fittings you require 6’ of
glazing beading, 4 nuts and bolts, 2 casement stay pins, 1 casement stay and 6 M4 stainless steel
nuts and bolts.
PROCEDURE:
1. Identify the slam door and attach the 2 stay pins to the outer side of the angle using the M4 stain-
less steel nuts and bolts.
2. Lay the 4 edge pieces of the vent on a level surface as though you were on the inside of the vent
(with the bolt slots of the side bars uppermost and the ‘v’ slots of the bottom rail uppermost. The
top rail is arranged in such a way that the squared off end is to the bottom and the hooked hinge up-
permost).
3. Slide the glazing beading into the slots in the side and top rails and trim to suit.
4. Insert a bolt into each end of the side rail bolt slots, put these bolts through the holes in the top
and bottom rails, add nuts and lightly tighten. Check that all joints are secure and that the vent is
square, and then tighten up the nuts.
5. Fit the casement stay using the M4 stainless steel nuts and bolts, putting the bolts through the
holes in the saddle of the stay and through the 2 elongated holes in the bottom rail. Hold the nuts in
place and tighten the bolts with a screwdriver.
Do the same with the other vents.
Do not fit the vent at this stage.
Video’s on vent assembly are on our website www.elite-greenhouses.co.uk

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DOOR FRAME ASSEMBLY
Each Door consists of:
1 unhanded door post
1 handed door post (handed post for left door is different profile to the handed right hand door post)
3 infill panels (1 with pre fabricated lock hole) for lock barrel
1 top and bottom door panels
3 panels of glass which must be fitted during door assembly. It is not possible to fit glass after the
door is built.
From the main bag of fittings you require;
2 door wheels
1 clip on nylon door skid (this might already be fitted to the bottom door panel)
2 lengths of black brush draught excluder with PVC carrier
Door lock, self tapping screws and spring washers
12’ glazing beading
Door handles
3 PVC Glass strips
Left hand Door (viewed from outside)
Identify the correct door posts. The handed door post for the left hand door has a bolt channel,
whereas the handed door post for the right hand door post does not. (Key point).
1. Place one unhanded post and the handed post for left hand door on a level surface roughly two
feet apart with the bolt slots facing downwards. (Unhanded door post on the left, handed door
post on the right). The top of each side post has two screw holes in it,
the bottom has three. (Key point). Slide the glazing beading into the
groove of each bar i.e. only one length of glazing beading per bar.
2. Place the top, bottom and 3 infill panels in position as shown by the po-
sition of the screw holes in the side pieces and the panels. The top panel
has the greenhouse name on it. The bottom panel has the edge for the
door skid to fit on. The lower infill panel locks on to the bottom panel. The infill panel for the
left hand door does not have a pre fabricated hole for the lock barrel.
3. Fix the left hand door post to the door panels by screwing through the door side pieces into
the holes provided in the edge of the panels with the self tapping screws. The screws will go
in more easily and with out danger of trying to go crooked if you can put a small amount of
grease on the screw before assembling the doors. Alternatively, you could insert the screws
into the screw eyes of the door panels before assembling the door; this would have the effect
of pre-self tapping the panels prior to assembly, making assembly easier.
4. GLASS MUST BE FITTED TO EACH DOOR BEFORE THE 2ND DOOR POST IS
FITTED—KEY POINT

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5. Before fitting the unhanded door post, offer the glass panels to the door (see glazing plan in
booklet for glass size guide on door), slide them in from the side. Carefully attach the unhand-
ed door post in the same way as before, ensuring the glass is sitting in the correct position
(sitting on the beading channels of the door posts) before tightening the screws.
6. Make sure all angles are square and tighten all screws.
Now insert 2 glazing clips to the glass on the unhanded
door post. The handed door posts are clipped using the 6
pieces of clip capping (no metal clips) found in the
greenhouse box (3 per door). The clip capping should be
cut to the length of the glass, and pushed into the cavity
between the frame of the door and the glass, so as to
wedge the glass to the back frame of the door. See dia-
gram for final resting position of the clip capping.
7. Fix each door wheel into position by pushing the bolt
provided through the centre of the wheel and then
through the hole in the top door panel from underneath (i.e.
from the inside of the door). Put the washer over the bolt
and secure with the nut provided, tightening until there is
no movement on the bolt. The nuts are lock-nuts and are
harder to put on than normal nuts in general assembly. The
wheel will revolve freely because it has ball bearings in it.
The wheel has a collar protruding from the centre, this
collar goes against the inside face of the top door panel.
(See picture).
8. Slip the nylon door skids on each of the bottom panels. This
may already have been done prior to delivery. After fitting
the doors (see later in the booklet), you may need to lower the door skid so that it engages with
the bottom door cill to allow smooth movement of the door. Lower the skid on each door and
insert a self tapping screw at each end of the skid to reinforce the position.
9. Build the right hand door using the remaining handed and unhanded door post. Viewed from
the outside, the handed door post will be on the left of the door, while the unhanded door post
will be on the right. At this point you must decide the height you would like your door lock.
The hole to take the door lock is on the left hand side of the infill panel. You can decide to fit
this panel to the 2nd or 3rd panel down. Make sure you fit the glass before final fixing of
the door. See glazing plan towards the back of this booklet.
10. Thread the stainless steel backed brush extruder into the PVC carrier. This may already have
been done prior to delivery.
11. Turn the doors over and insert the black brush draught excluder in the groove (bolt slot) in the
unhanded door posts. Insert a nut and bolt at the bottom of each unhanded door post and tight-
en so that the brush will not slip down when the door is in its upright position. Cut off the sur-
plus brush and carrier at the top of the bar.
12. Do not fit the door to the gable at this stage – wait until the structure is fully assembled prior
to glazing.
Video’s of the assembly can be found at www.elite-greenhouses.co.uk

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DOOR FRAME ASSEMBLY