Elite Greenhouses STRATA User manual

PARTS LIST
4 x 6 6 x 6 8 x 6 10 x 6 12 x 6
1Nuts and bolts M6 92 102 115 132 148
2Wire clips 212 252 292 332 372
3Overlap clips 28 34 40 46 52
4Casement stay 11222
5Stay pins 22444
6Nuts and bolts M4 6612 12 12
7Double door catch 11111
8Short self tapping screw 28 28 28 28 28
9Glazing beading (m) 48 59 71 89 100
10 Door wheels and guides 44444
11 Eave gusset plates Taped together with 44444
12 Ridge gusset plates one casement stay 22222
13 Ridge 11111
14 Gutter/eave 22222
15 Built in base side 22222
16 Side braces 22444
17 Door end cill 11111
18 Top door track 11111
19 Top door panel With name plate
taped 22222
20 Bottom door panel together and marked 22222
21 Infill door panel "door" 66666
22 Door track support 11111
23 Door posts (handed and unhanded) 2/2 2/2 2/2 2/2 2/2
24 Door angle 11111
25 Side glazing bar 246810
26 Roof glazing bar 246810
27 Vent (in packs) 11222
28 Door end BLOCK glazing bars Taped together and 22222
29 Door end horizontal angle marked "Door end" 22222
30 Door end diagonal angle 22222
31 Small door track support 22222
32 Rear end built in base 11111
33 Rear end glazing bars Taped together and 22222
34 Rear end horizontal angle marked "Rear end" 11111
35 Rear end diagonal angle 22222
36 Corner bars in two packs 88888
37 Door end built in base 22222
38 Base legs (corner brackets) 44444
39 Door end base plates 22222
40 Angle brackets 810 12 14 16
41 Cantilever brace --246
42 Door end ramp 11111
43 Glazing bar over double doors 11111
44 Glass: See back of plan for details

HELPFUL HINTS
· Please do take your time and be sure to read all instructions carefully before assembling.
· Consider purchasing the Elite Construction pack to help with the installation –contact dealer
for details.
· Do not assemble frame in high winds.
· The greenhouse frame should be anchored to a permanent foundation. This will not only help
secure it against powerful winds but will help prevent breakage of the glass caused by the
freezing and thawing process of the earth.
· When building your own brick/concrete foundations ensure that they are level and square oth-
erwise your frame will not be correct and the glass will not fit.
· Be sure all four corners of the constructed greenhouse are square before installing glass, and
do not install the glass until the greenhouse is on a permanent foundation.
· Do not place your greenhouse in vulnerable locations such as under trees, playing areas, etc.
· Children should not play near glass greenhouses.
· REMEMBER: glass is fragile, handle with care!
· Protective eye glasses should be worn.
· Gloves should be worn.
· If your greenhouse is a powder coated one there are a few 1/8”(3mm) holes in the end of the
bars. These are jig holes for the process and have no bearing on construction. (Key Point).
· When Powder Coated, the sub-frame assembly packages may slightly differ from the standard
alloy finish.
· Powder coated packages are wrapped in polythene tubing –please be careful when opening
e.g. Do not run a knife down the sides as you can scratch the paintwork.
· WHEN CONSTRUCTING A POWDER COATED MODEL PLEASE TAKE CARE
NOT TO DAMAGE THE FINISH BY WORKING ON CONCRETE OR PATIOS.
· N.B. This plan covers the entire Strata range. The only difference between a 6ft long and
an 8ft long for example are a few extra pieces of alloy, glass, nuts and bolts etc. The con-
struction of the sub-frame assemblies is the same but for the purposes of this booklet we
have used the 8 x 6 model as the benchmark. Therefore only one plan is needed.
· We reserve the right to alter and improve our products.

INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS FOR THE 6’3”WIDE MODEL
“STRATA”RANGE”
THE CONTENTS OF THIS CARTON ARE DIVIDED INTO DIFFERENT FRAME AS-
SEMBLIES THAT COLLECTIVELY MAKE UP THE COMPLETED GREENHOUSE
FRAMEWORK.
It is recommended that each framework assembly is fully completed before moving onto the next.
The contents are as follows:
1. Two side frames
2. Rear end frame
3. Door end frame
4. Roof vent (two for 8’5”, 10’5”& 12’5”models)
5. Doors
6. Bag of fittings containing:
a. Nuts and bolts general assembly
b. Overlap clips for glass
c. Wire clips for glass
d. Casement stay (1 for 4’5”& 6’5”models) (2 for 8’5”,10’5”& 12’5”models)
e. Casement stay nuts and bolts
f. Four eave plates
g. Two ridge plates
h. Four door wheels
i. Four door guides
j. Small self tapping screws
k. 1 Double door catch
7. Roof bars
8. Glazing beading
9. One length of ridge
10. Two black rubber draught excluders
11. Small angle brackets for anchoring down
12. 2 Rectangular plates (door end plates) with 3 slots (for door end assem-
bly)
For clear identification of parts and the number required please carefully refer to he earlier
pages of component drawings and parts list.
SIDE FRAME ASSEMBLY PARTS LIST
1) Combined eave/gutter bar
2) Built in base section
3) Glazing bars 1.489m long (1 for 4’, 2 for 6’, 3 for 8’, 4 for 10’, 5 for 12’)
4) Side braces 1.601m long (1 for 4’and 6’, 2 for 8, 10 and 12’)
5) Glazing beading
6) Nuts and bolts

SIDE FRAME ASSEMBLY
When you come to the greenhouse itself start by assembling the side frames first.
The base is integrated with the cill for each side of the greenhouse, and is assembled onto each sub-
assembly rather than separately laid out.
1. Lay out the pieces on the ground as though you were standing
inside the house, i.e. with the gutter and built in base facing
downwards, and the bolt channels of the glazing bar(s) upwards.
(Key Point). Slide the glazing beading into the V grooves of
the glazing bars.
2. Slide a bolt into each end of each glazing bar. (If you have
bought a shelf to go in your greenhouse and you intend to fit it on a side wall, use the ½”
headed bolts provided with the shelf fittings- these can be inserted later). For the 8’model,
slide 1 extra bolt into the middle glazing bar of each side. For 10’models, slide an extra bolt
into the 2nd and 3rd glazing bar (and also the 4th bar for 12’long models). These will enable the
fitting of a cantilever brace during general assembly later in the plan, page 21 paragraph 10.
3. Fix the combined eaves/gutter bar to the glazing bar(s) by pushing the bolts through the holes
in the combined eaves/gutter bar, and securing with a nut. You do not need to tighten the nuts
too much at this stage, but they need to be tight enough to stop the bolts slipping out of the
glazing bar.
4. Fix the built in base to the middle glazing bar by pushing the bolt through the hole in the built
in base unit and tightening.
5. Correctly position the built in base on the outer most glazing bars by pushing the bolts
through the holes in the built in base, but do not put the nuts on yet.
6. Place the side braces over these bolts so that they point outwards towards the ends of eaves
bar. They must be so arranged that the flat bit of the angle in each case faces towards the mid-
dle of the house (i.e. the elongated slit will be by the eaves in one case and by the built in base
in the other). (Key Point).
7. Put nuts on bottom bolts and lightly tighten.
8. Do the same with the other side frame assembly.
9. Make sure that the glazing bars reach both the built in base and the combined eaves/gutter bar
in each case. Tighten all nuts.
10. If you intend to fit any Elite accessories (louvres, shelf, staging) they will be packed with ½
head bolts to enable them to be retro fitted. You do not need to pre insert any bolts for these
accessories.
11. If you are fitting your greenhouse onto hard standing (flags, concrete etc.), then insert bolts
into the bolt channel of the built in base (generally 1 every 2’). These will be used to anchor
the greenhouse to the floor during general assembly.

REAR END ASSEMBLY
Components
1 Built in base “marked rear end”
2 Glazing bars
2 Roof corner bars (marked “R”at the apex)
2 Side corner bars
2 Diagonal angles
1 Horizontal angle
From the main bag of fittings you will require the nuts and bolts. You will also require 2 eave gus-
set plates and 1 ridge gusset plate. These are packed with the casement stay and are separate from
the main bag of fittings.
INSTRUCTIONS
1. Lay out the frame as though you were standing on the inside i.e. with the bolt slots uppermost.
Roof corners marked “R”at the apex, opposite each other, facing downwards (i.e. “R”on out-
side). Roof corner bars are mitred at both ends where as side
corner bars are mitred at one end only (Key Point). The bolt
slot is on the inside and faces inwards during initial construc-
tion. If you have a powder coated greenhouse there is no letter
“R”on the corner bar. You must ensure that the “middle”hole
is nearer to the ridge gusset plate than the eave gusset plate
(Key Point). Slide the glazing beading into the V groove of
the glazing bar and the corner bars. (Do not put beading
into the middle V slot of the corner bar).
2. Slide two bolts into the bolt channels of each corner bar (1 each end). These will later be used
in the general assembly for fixing the ridge, eave and built in base to the ends. Now secure the
ridge gusset plate and eaves gusset plates by inserting bolts through the ‘plates’and into the
holes punched in the flange of the corner bar, at the apex and eave.
3. Attach the built in base to the side corner bars by inserting a bolt through the hole in the
flange of the corner bar and into the slot in the built in base. (Make sure bolt channel of the
built-in-base section is facing upwards). (Key Point).
4. Attach the vertical glazing bars to the built in base by inserting a bolt into the bolt channel of
the glazing bars and locating it with the punched holes in the built in base. Before securing the
nuts attach the diagonal angle to the same bolt as illustrated. The top of the diagonal angle
now attaches to the hole in the side corner bar approx. 300mm from the top of the bar.
5. Slide two bolts into the bolt channel at the top of the two vertical glazing bars and secure the
second one to the roof corner bars by inserting the bolt through the punched hole in the flange.
6. You can now attach the horizontal angle to the top bolt of the gusset plate and to the other
bolts in the glazing bars you inserted in 5, above.

8. Check that all angles between the built in base and the vertical members are at right angles and
that the glazing bars are right into the built in base at the bottom. (Key Point).
9. Tighten all nuts.
10. Slide a bolt into the bolt slot in the built in base section, one at each end. The corner bracket/
angle base leg is approx. 400mm long and has 6 holes (4 at 1 end and 2 at the other). Attach
the corner bracket/angle base leg so that it is pointing downwards by using the end of the
bracket that has 2 holes (not 4) to the bolt channel of the base section. If you are fitting your
greenhouse onto soft ground, then do not fit the corner bracket/angle base leg yet. If you are
on a patio, you will need to cut the bracket off level with the bottom of the built in base and
slide extra bolts into the bolt channel to be attached to the angle brackets (generally 1 every
2’). If you are on soil, the corner bracket/angle base leg will go into the ground during general
assembly.
N.B. Roof Corner Bars are marked “R”on the outside, which indicates that they meet at the ridge.
They are also mitred at both ends.
If you have a powder coated greenhouse there is no letter “R”on the corner bar. You must ensure
that the “middle”hole is nearer to the ridge plate than the eaves plate. (Key Point).

REAR END ASSEMBLY

DOOR END ASSEMBLY
Components
1 Door end cill
2 Built in base
2 End BLOCK glazing bars (mitred at 1 end)
2 Rectangular plates with 3 slotted holes
2 Short horizontal angles
2 Roof corner bars (marked ‘R’)
2 Side corner bars (unmarked)
1 Door track support
1 Top door track
2 Small angle door track support
2 Diagonal angles
From the main bag of fittings you will require the nuts
and bolts.
You will also require 2 eave gusset plates and 1 ridge
gusset plate. These are packed with the casement stay
and are separated from the main bag of fittings.
INSTRUCTIONS
1. Assemble the frame in exactly the same way as the rear end, up to and including stage 3 of the
rear end. The difference with the door end is that instead of 1 long built in base piece, the door
end has 2 smaller pieces (1 either side of the door opening) and 1 door end cill.
2. Now engage the door end cill with the 2 built in base pieces by pushing the angle of the cill
under the locator as shown in the diagram. At this stage the cill will move freely left and right
but will remain located to the built in base.
N.B: The short door end built in base sections have an extra slotted hole at the other end which will
not be utilised in the assembly, but is there so that the built in base pieces do not require handing
i.e. left can go on right and visa versa.
BLOCK BAR

3. The door end block glazing bar has 2 continuous bolt channels along its length. During con-
struction the bolt channels will always be on the inside of the greenhouse. For description pur-
poses we shall refer to these as the ‘inside channel’and the ‘outside channel’. Viewed from
the inside, the left hand block bar will have the outside channel on the left of the bar, and the
inside channel will be on the right hand side of the bar, and visa versa on the right hand block
bar.
4. Slide 2 bolts into the outside bolt channel bottom of each block glazing bar, and 3 bolts (only
1 if greenhouse to be sited on soft ground) into the free end of each built in base section. At-
tach the 2nd bolt in the block glazing bar to the hole in the door end cill, but do not put a nut
on yet. The Block glazing bars do not sit on top of the base (as the rear end glazing bars
do) they go down the side of the base and attached to the bottom cill. (Key Point).
5. Attach the rectangular plate (with 3 holes) to the 2 bolts
inserted in the outside bolt channel of the block glazing
bars and the last bolt inserted into the base ensuring that the
glazing bar is tight down into the angle of the door end cill.
Attach the diagonal angle to the top bolt of the rectangular
plate. The 2 unoccupied bolts in the built in base sections
will be used to anchor the greenhouse to the floor.
6. The inside bolt channel of each block bar is not fitted to the
bottom door cill, and consequently there is no hole in the
bottom door cill to receive a bolt.
7. Slide 2 bolts into the outside bolt channel of each block
glazing bar at the top, and 1 bolt into the inside bolt chan-
nel of each block glazing bar at the top. Locate the top bolt
in each bolt channel with the prefabricated holes in the roof
corner bar. Do not put a nut onto the bolt inserted in the inside bolt channel yet.
8. Attach the main door track support (shaped like a letter ‘Z’) to the 2 vertical block glazing
bars. The door track support attaches to the frame at the point where the block bar meets the
roof corner bar utilising the previously inserted bolt in the inside bolt channel which as yet
does not have a nut on. (Key Point). This ‘Z’shaped bar must be fitted with the two outside
slots facing upwards not downwards.
9. The two horizontal braces attach to the top bolt in the gusset plate and the outside bolt chan-
nel of the vertical block glazing bars, using the 1st bolt inserted in the bar above.
10. Stand the frame up and bolt the door track to the main door track support and the small angle
door track supports by inserting 5 bolts into the bolt slot of the door track. Position the middle
3 of these through the 3 holes in the door track support above the door opening. The small an-
gle door track supports (which are to be fitted after the greenhouse is completely assembly,
but prior to glazing) has 2 elongated holes at the top and is blank at the bottom. Attach one of
the holes to the bolt slot at the back of the door track using the 4th bolt, and then by using a
self tapping screw, you can attach the blank end of the bar to the continuous screw groove on
the corner bar. See door end assembly .
11. Now fit the small door end glazing bar to the unoccupied hole in the upper flange of the main
door track support, and the other end to the middle hole of the ridge gusset plate.

12. When this has been achieved tighten all nuts.
13. Slide a bolt into the bolt slot in the built in base section, one at each end. Attach the angle
base leg/corner bracket so that it is pointing downwards. If you are fitting your greenhouse
onto soft ground, then do not fit the corner bracket yet. If you are on a patio, you will need to
cut the bracket off level with the bottom of the built in base and slide extra bolts into the bolt
channel to be attached to the anchor bracket (generally 1 every 2’). If you are on soil, the
bracket will go into the ground at general assembly.
N.B. Please note carefully the correct position of the main door support. The slotted holes at either
end are facing skywards NOT downwards (Key Point).
Please note, you only require approx. 150mm of beading in the inside ‘v’groove of the door end
glazing bars.

DOOR END ASSEMBLY

DOOR FRAME ASSEMBLY
Follow the procedure below for each door.
Components consist of:
2 door glazing bars for each door (1 handed, 1 unhanded)
(handed posts of each door meet in the middle)
3 infill panels
2 top and bottom door panels
From the main bag of fittings you require for each door:
2 door wheels
2 clip on nylon door skids
1 length of black rubber draft excluder
12’glazing beading and self tapping screws
BEWARE OF SHARP EDGES!
1. Place the two door glazing bars on a level surface roughly 12”(305mm) apart with the bolt
slots facing downwards. The top of each door glazing bar has two screw holes in it, the bot-
tom has three. (Key Point).
2. Looking at the handed door posts in profile with the 2 holes at the top (3 holes at the bottom)
the open box part of the section goes to the outside i.e. on right hand door –left hand upright,
on left hand door –right hand upright.
3. Slide glazing beading into the channels of the door glazing bars, apart from the outside chan-
nels of the two outer bars.
4. Place the top, bottom and 3 infill panels in position as shown, lining up the screw holes in the
door glazing bars and panels. The top panel has the greenhouse name on it. The bottom panel
has the edge for the door skids to fit on. The lower infill panel locks on to the bottom panel.
N.B. The top and bottom panels are the same profile section.
5. Fix the door together by screwing through the door glazing bars into the holes provided in the
edge of the panels with the self-tapping screws. The screws will go in more easily and without
danger of trying to go crooked if you can put a small about of grease on the screw before as-
sembling the doors. Alternatively, you could insert the screws into the screw eyes (semi-
circular grooves that run the length of the door panel) of the door panels before assembling
the door, this would have the effect of pre-self tapping the panels prior to the assembly mak-
ing assembly easier.
6. Make sure all angles are square and tighten all screws.
7. Fix each door wheel into position by pushing the bolt provided through the centre of the
wheel and then through the hole in the top door panel from underneath (i.e. from the inside of
the door). Put the washer over the bolt and secure with the nut provided, tightening until there
is no movement on the bolt. The nuts are lock-nuts and are harder to put on than the normal
nuts in general assembly. The wheel will revolve freely because it has ball bearings in it. The
door wheels have a shoulder in the middle that protrudes on one side. The shoulder, when fit-
ted to the door goes against the inside edge of the top door panel.
8. Slip the nylon door skids on each end of the bottom panel.

9. Turn the door over and insert the black rubber draught excluders in the groove (bolt slot) in
each unhanded door glazing bar. Push up to the top of the door glazing bar and trim off the
surplus at the bottom. With a pair of pliers squeeze the groove together at the bottom so that
the rubber will not slip down when the door is in its upright position.
10. Do exactly the same with the right hand door remembering that the draught excluder is insert-
ed into the right hand door glazing bar i.e. the unhanded one.
11. Do not fit the doors to the gable at this stage –wait until the structure is fully assembled prior
to glazing.
12. Having assembled both doors you need to attach a piece of alloy angle to the rear of the right
hand door. The angle is equal in length to the door glazing bar and has 3 holes equally spaced.
Insert bolts into the bolt slot of the left hand upright of the right hand door, attach the angle,
put on and tighten the nuts.
13. The door catch is better fitted when the greenhouse is fully erected (prior to glazing) and the
doors are fitted. You will need to locate the catch in your desired position and drill 4 holes to
accommodate the catch as illustrated below.

ROOF VENT ASSEMBLY
The roof vent pack has 5 pieces of aluminium: and from the main box of fittings you require:
6’of glazing beading
4 nuts and bolts
2 casement stay pins
1 casement stay
6 M4 stainless steel nuts and bolts
PROCEDURE:
1. Identify the slam bar and attach the 2 stay pins to the outer side of the angle using the M4
stainless steel nuts and bolts.
2. Lay the 4 edge pieces of the vent on a level surface as though you were on the inside of the
vent (with the bolt slots of the side bars uppermost and the ‘v’slots of the bottom rail upper-
most. The top rail is arranged in such a way that the squared off end is to the bottom and the
hooked hinge uppermost).
3. Slide the glazing beading into the beading groove in the side and top rails and trim to suit.
4. Insert a bolt into each end of the side rail bolt slots, put these bolts through the holes in the top
and bottom rails, add nuts and lightly tighten. Check that all joints are secure and that the vent
is square, and then tighten up the nuts.
5. Fit the casement stay using the M4 stainless steel nuts and bolts, putting the bolts through the
holes in the saddle of the stay through the 2 elongated holes in the bottom rail. Hold the nuts
in place and tighten the bolts with a screwdriver.
6. Do the same with the other vents.

ASSEMBLY OF GREENHOUSE UNIT

ASSEMBLY OF GREENHOUSE UNIT
The first operation is to connect the two side frames to the end frames to form the outer shape of the
completed structure. Another pair of willing hands would be useful at this stage.
1. Lift the first side frame into its position by the rear end.
2. Slot the eaves bar into the small space between the roof and side corner bar so that the gutter
is outside the end frame and the two flanges that form the angle of the roof and side are inside
and tight up against the bolt slots of the roof and side corner bar. (Key Point).
3. The extra bolts that were inserted in the bolt slots during the gable end assembly can now be
used.
4. Line up the elongated holes in the flanges of the eaves with the bolt slots and slide the bolts
into them. Put a nut on the top bolt and tighten up. Place the side braces onto the bottom bolt,
put a nut on and tighten up. (Key Point).
5. The built in base attaches to the inside of the corner bar. The bolt placed in the corner bar bolt
slot at gable end assembly will slide down into the slotted hole at the end of the built in base.
The angle base leg/corner bracket attached at frame assembly can now be attached to the ga-
ble end, in a similar way to its attachment to the side frame.
6. Do the same at the other three corners.
7. Slide the beading into the two V slots of the ridge, and then attach the ridge to the roof corner
bars by inserting the end of the ridge through the small gap in the corner bars at the top. The
vertical part of the ridge will be outside and pointing skywards and the two flanges that form
the angle of the roof will be inside, tight up against the bolt slots of the roof corner bars.
8. Line up the slotted holes at the end of the ridge with the bolt slots, in the corner bars and push
the two bolts, previously inserted during gable end assembly, into the slots. Put on nut and
tighten.