Elite Greenhouses 8'5" Wide Thyme User manual

*Greenhouses over 12’long—Side diagonals are taped together (not with gutter/eave)
Gutter/Ridge are taped separately (not boxed)
PARTS LIST - BUILT IN BASE MODEL
6x8 8x8 10x8 12x8 14x8 16x8 18x8 20x8 Partition
1 Nuts & bolts M6 206 241 269 297 332 367 402 437 60
2 Band clips 402 466 530 594 658 732 796 862 80
3 Wire clips 12 16 16 16 20 24 28 32 4
4 Casement stay 1 2 2 2 4 4 6 6 -
5 Stay pins 2 4 4 4 8 8 12 12 -
6 Nuts & bolts (M4) 6 12 12 12 24 24 36 36 4
7 Double door lock + cam 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1
8 Short self tapping screws 28 28 28 28 28 28 28 28 28
9 Glazing beading (metre) 145 171 196 222 248 274 300 326 31
10 Door guides 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 2
11 Eave plate 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 2
12 Ridge plates 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 1
13 Door wheels & fittings 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4
14 Ridge 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 -
15 Gutter/eave 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 -
16 Rear end built in base 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 -
17 Rear end horizontal angle 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 -
18 Rear end glazing bar (various) 7 7 7 7 7 7 7 7 -
19 Rear end diagonal angle 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 -
20 Corner bars in two packs 8 8 8 8 8 8 8 8 4
21 Door track support 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1
22 Door end glazing bar (various) 5 5 5 5 5 5 5 5 7
23 Door end horizontal angle
long/short 2/2 2/2 2/2 2/2 2/2 2/2 2/2 2/2 2/2
24 Door end diagonal angle 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 2
25 Door end cill 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1
26 Threshold ramp 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1
27 Door end built in base 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 2
28 Unhanded/Handed door post 2/2 2/2 2/2 2/2 2/2 2/2 2/2 2/2 2/2
29 Top door track 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1
30 Top door panel 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 2
31 Bottom door panel 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 2
32 Middle door panel 6 6 6 6 6 6 6 6 6
33 Diamond shelf for rear end 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 -
34 *Side diagonal braces 2 4 4 4 6 8 8 8 -
35 Roof diagonal braces 2 2 2 2 4 4 4 4 -
36 Roof glazing bars 9 12 16 20 22 26 28 32 -
37 Side built in base 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 -
38 Cantilever brace (sm/lg) 2/4 3/6 4/8 5/10 6/12 7/14 8/16 9/18 -
39 Side glazing bar 10 14 18 22 26 30 34 38 -
40 Intermediate roof glazing bar 1 2 2 2 4 4 6 6 -
41 Vent (in packs) 1 2 2 2 4 4 6 6 -
42 Base anchors/Corner bracket 4 4 4 4 8 8 8 8 2
43 Bag of fittings, inc plan 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1
44 5 blade louvre 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 -
45 Crestings’& Finials 5/2 7/2 9/2 11/2 13/2 15/2 17/2 19/2 -

* Models over 12’long—gutter/ridge + side cills are taped together (not boxed)
PARTS LIST—DWARF WALL MODEL
6x8 8x8 10x8 12x8 14x8 16x8 18x8 20x8 Partition
1 Nuts & bolts M6 206 241 269 297 332 367 402 437 60
2 Band clips 402 466 530 594 658 732 796 862 80
3 Wire clips 12 16 16 16 20 24 28 32 4
4 Casement stay 1 2 2 2 4 4 6 6 -
5 Stay pins 2 4 4 4 8 8 12 12 -
6 Nuts & bolts (M4) 6 12 12 12 24 24 36 36 -
7 Double door lock + cam 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1
8 Short self tapping screws 28 28 28 28 28 28 28 28 28
9 Glazing beading (metre) 145 171 196 222 248 274 300 326 31
10 Door guides 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 2
11 Eave plates 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 2
12 Ridge plates 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 1
13 Door wheels & fittings 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4
14 Rear end cill 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 -
15 Rear end horizontal angle 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 -
16 Rear end glazing bar (various) 7 7 7 7 7 7 7 7 -
18 Corner bars in two packs 8 8 8 8 8 8 8 8 4
19 Door track support 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1
20 Door end glazing bar (various) 5 5 5 5 5 5 5 5 7
21 Door end horizontal angle
Long/short 2/2 2/2 2/2 2/2 2/2 2/2 2/2 2/2 2/2
22 Door end diagonal angle 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 2
23 Door end cut out cill 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1
24 Door end cill (on top of wall) 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 2
25 Threshold ramp 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1
26 Unhanded/Handed door post 2/2 2/2 2/2 2/2 2/2 2/2 2/2 2/2 2/2
27 Top door track 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1
28 Top door panel 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 2
29 Bottom door panel 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 2
30 Middle door panel 6 6 6 6 6 6 6 6 6
31 *Gutter/eave 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 -
32 *Side cill 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 -
33 Side diagonal braces 2 4 4 4 6 8 8 8 -
34 Diamond shelf for rear end 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 -
35 *Ridge 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 -
36 Roof diagonal braces 2 2 2 2 4 4 4 4 -
37 Side glazing bar 10 14 18 22 26 30 34 38 -
38 Intermediate roof glazing bar 1 2 2 2 4 4 6 6 -
39 Roof glazing bars 9 12 16 20 22 26 28 32 -
40 Roof vent (in packs) 1 2 2 2 4 4 6 6 -
41 Cantilever brace (sm/lg) 2/4 3/6 4/8 5/10 6/12 7/14 8/16 9/18 -
42 Bag of fittings, inc plan 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1
43 5 blade louvre 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 -
44 Crestings’& Finials 5/2 7/2 9/2 11/2 13/2 15/2 17/2 19/2 -
17 Rear end diagonal angle 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 -

HELPFUL HINTS
· Please do take your time and be sure to read all instructions carefully before assembling.
· HELPFUL VIDEOS ARE AVAILABLE ON OUR WEBSITE
www.elite-greenhouses.co.uk
· Do not assemble frame in high winds.
· The greenhouse frame should be anchored to a permanent foundation. This will not only help
secure it against powerful wind but will help prevent breakage of the glass caused by the
freezing and thawing process of the earth.
· When building your own brick/concrete foundations ensure that they are level and square
otherwise your frame will not be correct and the glass will not fit.
· Be sure all four corners of the constructed greenhouse are square before installing glass, and
do not install the glass till the greenhouse is on a permanent foundation.
· Do not place your greenhouse in vulnerable locations such as under trees, playing areas, etc.
· Children should not play near glass greenhouses.
· REMEMBER: glass is fragile, handle with care!
· Protective eye glasses should be worn.
· Gloves should be worn.
· If your greenhouse is a painted one there are a few 1/8”(3mm) holes in the end of the bars.
These are jig holes for painting and have no bearing on construction. (Key point).
· When Powder Coated, the sub-frame assembly packages may slightly differ from the standard
alloy finish.
· Powder coated packages are wrapped in polythene tubing –please be careful when opening
e.g. Do not run a knife down the sides as you can scratch the paintwork.
· WHEN CONSTRUCTING A PAINTED MODEL PLEASE TAKE CARE NOT TO
DAMAGE THE FINISH BY WORKING ON CONCRETE OR PATIOS.
· N.B. This plan covers the entire 8’wide thyme range. The only difference between a 6ft
long and an 8ft long for example are a few extra pieces of alloy, glass, nuts and bolts etc.
The construction of the sub-frame assemblies is the same but for the purposes of this
booklet we have used the 12x8 model as the benchmark. Therefore only one plan is
needed.
· We reserve the right to alter and improve our products.

INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS FOR THE 8’5”WIDE
“THYME”MODEL RANGE
The contents of this carton are divided into the different frame assemblies that collectively
make up the completed greenhouse framework.
It is recommended that each framework assembly is fully completed before moving onto the next.
The contents are as follows:
1 Two side frames
2 Rear end frame (including shelf)
3 Door end frame
4 Roof vent (number dependant upon length of greenhouse)
5 Doors
6 Bag of fittings containing:
Nuts and bolts (general assembly)
Casement stay for roof vent (number dependant upon length of greenhouse)
Casement stay nuts and bolts
Four eave plates (not in the main bag, but taped up with the casement stay)
Two ridge plates
Four door wheels
Two door guides (these may already be fitted to bottom door panel)
Small self tapping screws
7 Roof bars
8 Coils of glazing beading
9 One length of ridge
10 Two black brush draught excluders (1 per door)
11 Ridge crestings’and finials
12 Two side louvre vents
For clear identification of parts and the number required please carefully refer to the earlier
pages of component drawings and parts list.

SIDE FRAME ASSEMBLY
When you come to the greenhouse itself, start by assembling the side frames first.
· Slide the glazing beading into both V grooves of all glazing bars. Lay out the pieces on the
ground as though you were standing inside the house, i.e. with the gutter and cill facing
downwards, and the bolt channels of the glazing bar(s) upwards. For the
12x8 model, you will need 11 side glazing bars for each side. (Key point).
· Slide a bolt into each end of each glazing bar. You must decide the position
of the louvres. Once decided, you must slide 2 bolts down each glazing bar
onto which the louvre will attach. In addition, your greenhouse will come as
standard with a cantilever brace to be fitted to every other bar. Slide a bolt into each bar that
the cantilever will attach. (If you have bought an additional shelf or staging to go in your
greenhouse and you intend to fit it on a side wall, use the ½”headed bolts provided with the
shelf fittings).
· Fix the combined eaves bar and gutter to the glazing bars by pushing the bolts through the
holes in the eaves bar, and securing with a nut. You do not need to tighten the nuts too much
at this stage, but they need to be tight enough to stop the bolts slipping out of the glazing bar.
N.B. remember to omit two roof bars if you have a partition, one each side (see later detail
regarding partitions).
· Fix the side built in base/cill to the middle glazing bar by pushing the bolt through the hole in
the built in base/cill and tightening as before.
· If your greenhouse is over 12’long (and built in base model) see description and drawing for
how to join the 2 base pieces together (at the end of side frame assembly section on page 9).
· Correctly position the built in base/cill on the outermost glazing bars by pushing the bolts
through the holes in the built in base/cill, but do not put the nuts on yet.
· Place the angled tie bar over these bolts so that they point outwards towards the ends of eaves
bar. They must be so arranged that the inside angle of the bar in each case faces towards the
middle of the house (i.e. the elongated slit will be by the eaves in one case and by the built in
base/cill in the other). (Key point). The 12x8 model has 2 diagonal tie bars on each side. (14’
has 3/side, 16’, 18’and 20’long buildings have 4/side).
· Put nuts on bottom bolts and lightly tighten.
· If you plan to fit the greenhouse (Built in base model only) to a hard standing (flags, concrete
etc) then insert extra bolts into the bolt channel of the built in base (generally 1 every 2’).
These will be used to anchor the greenhouse to the floor later in the assembly.
· In addition, add 1 extra bolt at each end of the built in base. These bolts will be used to attach
the corner brackets. This applies for fitting onto both hard and soft standing.
· Do the same with the other side frame assembly.
· Make sure that the glazing bars reach both the built in base/cill and the eaves in each case.
· Tighten all nuts. (Key point).

If you have the built in base model, then the side cill above is replaced by a side
built in base section.
BUILT IN BASE MODEL ONLY
If your greenhouse is over 12’5”in length, you will need to attach the side built in base sections to-
gether to form the length of your greenhouse. You will notice that you have 4 side built in base
pieces, 2 of which will be un-fabricated at 1 end. These 2 sections are handed sections and must be
fitted to the correct side assembly.
The un-fabricated end of the base will be joined to the unhanded base section as shown below. It is
essential that the un-fabricated end is towards the middle of the greenhouse side assembly and not at
one of the ends.
To attach the 2 built in base pieces together you must attach 2 base legs back to back, bolt them to-
gether and attach the vacant end of each base leg to the bolt channel of the base section as shown.
Your gutter and ridge section will be in one piece and will not need to be joined (except where
greenhouse is over 20’5”- see supplementary instructions related to greenhouse extensions).
BUILT IN BASE

REAR END ASSEMBLY
Components:
1 rear built in base/cill
7 glazing bars
2 roof corner bars (marked “R”at the apex)
2 side corner bars (unmarked)
2 diagonal bracing angles
1 horizontal angle brace
From the main bag of fittings you will require the nuts and bolts
You will also require glazing beading, 2 eave plates and 1 ridge plate
These are packed with the casement stay and are separated from the main bag of fittings
INSTRUCTIONS
Starting with the pack of corner bars marked ‘rear end’, split the
tape holding them together and identify the roof corner bars
from the side. The side corner bars have a mitre at one end and a
single hole at the same end. The other end of the side corner bar
is a square cut. The roof corner bars are mitred at both ends and
have 6 holes in the flange and a letter ‘R’written at the apex on
the outside of the bar. If your greenhouse is painted the corner
bars will not show the letter ‘R’, but can be identified using the
diagram above. (Roof corner bars for Dwarf Wall model are
longer than side corner bars.)
1. The corner bars are also handed, so you must identify the left hand from the right. The dia-
gram above will help to do this. Standing up, hold the one side bar in your left hand and the
other in the right. Rotate the bars so that the 2 bolt channels are facing towards you with the
mitres at the top (inside view). Viewed this way, the 2 mitres should run down to each other.
The roof corner bars can be handed similarly keeping the bolt slots facing inwards and the
letter ‘R’to the top. If you have a painted greenhouse there is no letter “R”on the corner
bar. There are 6 holes/slots in your roof corner bar. There is 1 hole at each end of the roof
corner bar, 1 with hole centres 50mm and the other with hole centres 33m from the end of the
bar. You must ensure that the hole with 50mm centres from the end of the bar is towards the
ridge. The hole with 33mm hole centres is towards the eave. (Key point).
2. Slide the glazing beading into the V groove of all 7 glazing bars and the corner bars. (Do not
put beading into the middle slot of the corner bars (unless you have a partition).
3. Lay out the frame as though you were standing on the inside i.e. with the two bolt slots
uppermost. Roof corners marked “R”at the apex, opposite
each other, facing downwards (i.e. “R”on outside).
4. Slide two bolts (1 at each end) into the alternative bolt chan-
nel of each corner bar. These will later be used in the general
assembly for fixing the ridge, eave and built in base/cill to the
ends .

5. Starting at the apex (2 corner bars opposite each other marked R), slide 1 bolt into the facing
bolt channel i.e. the one that is facing upwards and at 90 degrees to the non facing bolt slot).
6. Place the ridge gusset plate (larger of the 2 types) over the bolt, then slide left or right until
the slotted hole in the plate lines up with the locating hole in the flange nearest the end of the
corner bar. Put nuts on and finger tip tight only. Do the same with the other corner bar
ensuring that the 2 corner bars are pressed tight up behind the gusset plate.
7. Now moving to the eave gusset assembly, slide one bolt into the facing bolt channel. Place the
lower hole of the eave gusset plate over the bolt and move it left or right until the next hole up
in the plate lines up with the locating hole at the top of the side corner bar. Place a bolt
through the hole and put a nut on finger tip tight. Do not put a nut on the lower bolt yet.
8. Attach the top and 2nd hole in the gusset plate to the roof corner bar, ensuring that both corner
bars are tight together behind the plate. (Top hole fixes to facing bolt channel of the roof cor-
ner bar). Do not put the nut on the top bolt yet. Repeat the procedure at the other corner with
another gusset plate.

9. Attach the rear built in base/cill (marked rear end) to the bottom of the side corner bars by in-
serting a bolt in the facing bolt slot at the bottom of the side corner bar and then into the pre-
fabricated slot in the built in base/cill.
10. Attach the vertical glazing bars to the built in base/cill by inserting a bolt into the bolt channel
of each glazing bar and locating it with the punched holes in the built in base. Before securing
the nuts attach the angle diagonal ties to the bottom of the 3rd and 5th glazing bar as illustrated
on the rear end exploded diagram). The top of the diagonal angle tie now attaches to the bot-
tom hole in the eaves gusset plate. (Key point). Do not tighten the nuts that hold the diagonal
angles yet.
11. Slide five bolts (4 for dwarf wall models) into the bolt channel at the top of the 1st and 7th
vertical glazing bars, four bolts into 3rd and 5th, and 2 bolts into the top of the 2nd, 4th and
6th vertical glazing bars. Secure the last one in each bar to the roof corner bars by inserting
the bolt through the punched hole in the flange. Remember, if you are fitting a louvre into the
rear gable, you must slide 2 extra bolts down each bar onto which the louvre will be fitted.
(Key point).
12. You can now attach the horizontal angle brace to the top bolt of the eaves gusset plates and to
the top bolts in the glazing bars you inserted, above. The horizontal brace is not bolted to the
2nd, 4th and 6th glazing bar. The remaining bolts will be used to attach the diamond shelf. The
shelf can be fitted at any time provided the bolts have been inserted.
13. Check that all angles between the built in base and the vertical members are at right angles
and that the glazing bars are right into the built in base at the bottom. (Key point).
14. Tighten all nuts.

SHELF FITTING
The diamond shelf is intended to fit on the rear gable end of the greenhouse. Not only is it very
functional, but it adds lots of strength to the greenhouse.
The parts required for the shelf are:
2 shelf top sections
10”cantilever braces x 4
Angle supports with 45º mitre at one end x 4
Nuts/bolts
You must decide the height you want your shelf to be fitted. Fix one of the angle supports to the top
unoccupied bolt in the 1st, 3rd, 5th and 7th vertical glazing bar at the desired height (with the square
edge against the greenhouse wall, mitred edge sticking out). The angle supports must be exactly the
same height.
The shelf is not fitted to the corner bars when fixed to rear of greenhouse.
Attach a cantilever brace to the lower unoccupied bolt in the bolt channel of the glazing bar as
shown in the diagram above. Do not attach the other end of the cantilever yet.
The shelf top sections are fitted to the angle supports utilising the bolt channel on the underside of
the shelf. Insert a bolt into the bolt channel of the shelf. Move into position where it will line up
with the pre-drilled hole in the angle support. Put a nut on and tighten. The cantilever attaches to the
angle support and the shelf top section using the same bolt (threaded onto the bolt channel of the
shelf top section). Do the same with all of the angle supports for both shelf runners. You will notice
that the shelf is approx. ½”from the back wall. This is to enable the diagonal angle to remain in po-
sition.
Where the shelf top sections are joined to form lengths over 8’, the head of the bolt is secured so
that it fixes the edge of both joining slats. Only 1 angle support and cantilever is required on the
join.
Your shelf is now complete.

DOOR END ASSEMBLY
Components
1 Door end cill
2 Door end built in base/cills
1 Threshold ramp
5 Glazing bars of various lengths
2 Short horizontal braces
2 Medium horizontal braces
2 Diagonal bracing angles
2 Roof corner bars (marked “R”)
2 Side corner bars (unmarked)
1 Door track support
1 Top door track
From the main bag of fittings you will require the nuts and bolts. You will also require glazing
beading, 2 eave plates and 1 ridge plate. These are packed with the casement stay and are separate
from the main bag of fittings, unless you have already split this pack for the rear end assembly
INSTRUCTIONS
Assemble the frame in exactly the same way as the rear end, up to and including stage 8 of the rear
end. The door end roof corner bars have 5 holes, not 6.
BUILT IN BASE ONLY
Now attach the built in base sections/cills to the corner bars, leaving a space for the door(s) in be-
tween.
Now engage the door end cill with the 2 built in base cills by
pushing the angle of the cill under the locator as shown in the dia-
gram. At this stage the cill will move freely left and right but will
remain located to the built in base cill.
Slide 2 bolts into the bottom of the 2nd and 4th glazing bar and 3
bolts (only 1 if greenhouse to be sited on soft ground) into the free
end of each built in base section. Attach the bottom bolt in the 2nd and 4th glazing
bar to the hole in the door end cill, but do not put a nut on yet. Note: the 2nd and
4th door end glazing bars are longer and do not sit on top of the base (as the
rear end glazing bars do), they go down the side of the built in base and at-
tach to the bottom cill. (Key point).
Attach the rectangular plate (with 3 slotted holes) to the 2 bolts inserted in the
glazing bars and the last bolt inserted into the base ensuring that the glazing bar is
tight down into the angle of the door end cill. Attach the diagonal angle brace to the top bolt of the
rectangular plate, and then to the bottom bolt of the eaves gusset plate. The 2 unoccupied bolts in
the base sections will be used to anchor the greenhouse to the floor.
Slide 3 bolts down the 1st and 5th glazing bar from the top, and 4 bolts down the 2nd and 4th glazing
bar. Secure the last one in each bar to the roof corner bars by inserting the bolt through the punched
hole in the flange.

DWARF WALL MODEL ONLY
Attach the door end cills to the corner bars. The door end cills are hand-
ed left and right. Each cill has a slot at one end and a tab at the other.
The slotted hole fixes to the corner bar.
Slide 4 bolts into the top (mitred end) of the 1st, 2nd and 4th and 5th
glazing bar. Attach the last bolt to the prefabricated hole in the roof cor-
ner bar. The 3rd shortest glazing bar is not fitted yet.
Moving to the bottom of each glazing bar, insert 1
bolt into the 1st and 5th glazing bar and attach to the
prefabricated hole in the cill.
Insert 2 bolts into the 2nd and 4th glazing bar. The
bottom bolt fixes the glazing bar to the cut out cill.
The cut out cill is positioned so that the ’u’channel
to allow doors to slide, is on the outside.
Attach the 2nd bolt to the hole in the tab cill.
BOTH MODELS
Attach the main door track support (shaped like a
letter ‘Z’) to the 2nd and 4th glazing bars around 6”
down the bar as shown. This ‘Z’shaped bar must be
fitted with the two outside slots facing upwards (as
illustrated) not downwards.
Now you can attach the smaller middle (3rd) glazing bar to the
ridge gusset plate and the unoccupied hole in the centre of the
main door track support. You may need to adjust the position
on the door track support to fit to the glazing bar.
Attach the small horizontal brace to the 2nd bolt inserted in all
vertical glazing bars.
The two long horizontal braces can now be attached to the top
bolt in the gusset plate and the remaining unoccupied bolts in
the vertical glazing bars. Shown below in the door end explod-
ed view.
Bolt the main door track to the main door track support by in-
serting 3 bolts into the bolt channel at the back of the door
track. Position these through the 3 holes in the door track sup-
port above the door opening. The door track should be posi-
tioned centrally. When this has been achieved tighten all nuts.
Please note, you only require approx. 200mm of beading in the
inside ‘v’groove of the two end glazing bars. This is to allow
successful glass fitting above the door.
N.B. Please note carefully the correct position of the main door
track support. The slotted holes at either end are facing skywards not downwards.

Dwarf wall only.
The bottom door end cill has a section cut out at each end allowing the cill to fit inside the 2 brick
pillars. The channel on the cill is outside the brickwork.

Now you can attach the smaller middle (3rd) glazing bar to the ridge gusset plate and the unoccupied
hole in the centre of the main door track support. You may need to adjust the position on the door
track support to fit to the glazing bar.
Attach the small horizontal brace to the 2nd bolt inserted in all vertical glazing bars.
The two long horizontal braces can now be attached to the top bolt in the gusset plate and the re-
maining unoccupied bolts in the vertical glazing bars. Shown below in the door end exploded view.
Bolt the main door track to the main door track support by inserting 3 bolts into the bolt channel at
the back of the door track. Position these through the 3 holes in the door track support above the
door opening. The door track should be positioned centrally. When this has been achieved tighten
all nuts.
Please note, you only require approx. 200mm of beading in the inside ‘v’groove of the two end
glazing bars. This is to allow successful glass fitting above the door.
N.B. Please note carefully the correct position of the main door track support. The slotted holes at
either end are facing skywards not downwards.

DOOR FRAME ASSEMBLY
Each Door consists of:
1 unhanded door post
1 handed door post (handed post for left door is different profile to the handed right hand door post)
3 infill panels (1 with prefabricated lock hole) for lock barrel
1 top and bottom door panels
3 panels of glass which must be fitted during door assembly
It is not possible to fit glass after the door is built
From the main bag of fittings you require:
2 door wheels
1 clip on nylon door skid (this might already be fitted to the bottom door panel)
2 lengths of black brush draught excluder with PVC carrier
Door lock, self tapping screws and spring washers
12’glazing beading
Door handle
3 PVC Glass strips
Left hand Door (viewed from outside)
Identify the correct door posts. The handed door post for the left hand door has a bolt channel,
whereas the handed door post for the right hand door post does not. (Key point).
1. Place one unhanded post and the handed post for left hand door on a level surface roughly two
feet apart with the bolt slots facing downwards. (Unhanded door post on the left, handed door
post on the right). The top of each side post has two screw holes in it,
the bottom has three. (Key point). Slide the glazing beading into the
groove of each bar i.e. only one length of glazing beading per bar.
2. Place the top, bottom and 3 infill panels in position as shown by the po-
sition of the screw holes in the side pieces and the panels. The top panel
has the greenhouse name on it. The bottom panel has the edge for the
door skid to fit on. The lower infill panel locks on to the bottom panel. The infill panel for the
left hand door does not have a prefabricated hole for the lock barrel.
3. Fix the left hand door post to the door panels by screwing through the door side pieces into
the holes provided in the edge of the panels with the self tapping screws. The screws will go
in more easily and without danger of trying to go crooked if you can put a small amount of
grease on the screw before assembling the doors. Alternatively, you could insert the screws
into the screw eyes of the door panels before assembling the door, this would have the effect
of pre-self tapping the panels prior to assembly, making assembly easier.
4. GLASS MUST BE FITTED TO EACH DOOR BEFORE THE 2ND DOOR POST IS
FITTED—KEY POINT.

5. Before fitting the unhanded door post, offer the glass panels to the door (see glazing plan in
booklet for glass size guide on door), slide them in from the side. Carefully attach the unhand-
ed door post in the same way as before, ensuring the glass is sitting in the correct position
(sitting on the beading channels of the door posts) before tightening the screws.
6. Make sure all angles are square
and tighten all screws. Now insert
2 glazing clips to the glass on the
unhanded door post.
The other side of the door is
clipped using a PVC glass strip (or clip cap). Cut the strip to the correct length and push into
the cavity between the glass and the handed door post. The cap when fitted acts as a wedge to
prevent movement of the glass. Metal clips are not fitted to this bar.
7. Fix each door wheel into position by pushing the bolt provided through the centre of the
wheel and then through the hole in the top door panel from underneath (i.e. from the inside of
the door). Put the washer over the bolt and secure with the nut provided, tightening until there
is no movement on the bolt. The nuts are lock-nuts and are harder to put on than normal nuts
in general assembly. The wheel will revolve freely because it has ball bearings in it. The
wheel has a collar protruding from the centre, this collar goes against the inside face of
the top door panel. (See picture below).
8. Slip the nylon door skids on each of the bottom panels. This may already have been done pri-
or to delivery. After fitting the doors (see later in the booklet), you may need to lower the
door skid so that it engages with the bottom door cill to allow smooth movement of the door.
Lower the skid on each door and insert a self tapping screw at each end of the skid to rein-
force the position.
9. Build the right hand door using the remaining handed and unhanded door post. Viewed from
the outside, the handed door post will be on the left of the door, while the unhanded door post
will be on the right. At this point you must decide the height you would like your door lock.
The hole to take the door lock is on the left hand side of the infill panel. You can decide to fit
this panel to the 2nd or 3rd panel down. Make sure you fit the glass before final fixing of
the door. See glazing plan towards the back of this booklet.
10. Thread the stainless steel backed brush extruder into the PVC carrier. This may already have
been done prior to delivery.
11. Turn the doors over and insert the black
brush draught excluder in the groove (bolt
slot) in the unhanded door posts. Insert a
nut and bolt at the bottom of each un-
handed door post and tighten so that the
brush will not slip down when the door is
in its upright position. Cut off the surplus
brush and carrier at the top of the bar.
12. Do not fit the door to the gable at this
stage –wait until the structure is fully
assembled prior to glazing.
13. Door handles can now be fitted.

DOOR FRAME ASSEMBLY