Elite Greenhouses TITAN 1000 User manual

PARTS LIST
10 x 10 12 x 10 14 x 10 16 x 10 18 x 10 20 x 10
1Ridge 111111
2Gutter/Eave 222222
3Side cill 222222
4Side bracing angle 446888
5Alloy shelf 8’ long 111111
6Rear end horizontal angle
Taped together
and marked rear
end
111111
7Rear end cill 111111
8Long rear end glazing bar 111111
9Medium rear end glazing bar 222222
10 Shorter rear end glazing bar 222222
11 Diagonal angles for rear end 222222
12 Door end cill
Taped together
and marked door
end
111111
13 Medium door end glazing bar 222222
14 Shorter door end glazing bar 222222
15 Short door end glazing bar 111111
16 Main door track support 111111
17 Diagonal angles for door end 222222
18 Upper horizontal angles end 222222
19 Lower horizontal angles end 222222
20 Corner bar in 2 packs of 4 888888
21 Roof glazing bar 810 12 14 16 18
22 Long roof bracing angle 444444
23 Short roof bracing angle 444444
24 Side glazing bar 810 12 14 16 18
25 Vent packs in roof 224466
26 Louvre vent for side 111122
27 Top door track 111111
28 Top door panels 222222
Taped together
and marked door
29 Bottom door panels 222222
30 Intermediate door panels 333333
31 Door posts (2 handed 2 un-handed) Taped together 111111
32 Tee bar cantilever 12 15 18 21 24 27
33 Glazing beading 450’ 500’ 550’ 600’ 650’ 700’
34 Bag of fittings 111111
35 Gusset plates—eaves 444444
36 Gusset plate—ridge 222222
37 Casement stay 224466
38 Glass—see glazing plan at back of booklet

ELITE GREENHOUSES BASE DIMENSIONS
For Brick, Block, Concrete or Timber
The dimensions given below may be used to locate the position for your Greenhouse or to lay cor-
ner footings if they are needed.
If a brick, concrete or timber base is laid, construct it as shown ensuring that dimensions A & B are
not exceeded as these precise outside measurements enabling the cill to overhang the edges.
ENSURE that the base is square by measuring across the corners, only when equal is it square.
Check the level using a builder’s spirit level.
Note—If you have purchased a drop door/dwarf wall modification then you must obtain a
base plan from Elite Greenhouses as the dimensions are slightly different to below.
MODEL
SIZE
(nominal) AB
TITAN 1000 10 X 10 3.195m 3.194m
12 X 10 3.195m 3.812m
14 X 10 3.195m 4.430m
16 X 10 3.195m 5.048m
18 X 10 3.195m 5.666m
20 X 10 3.195m 6.284m

HELPFUL HINTS & ADVICE
 Please do take your time and be sure to read all instructions carefully before assembling.
 Do not assemble frame in high winds.
 The greenhouse frame should be anchored to a permanent foundation. This will not only help
secure it against powerful winds but will help prevent breakage of the glass caused by the
freezing and thawing process of the earth. (Key point).
 When building your own brick/concrete foundations ensure that they are level and square oth-
erwise your frame will not be correct and the glass will not fit.
 Be sure all four corners of the constructed greenhouse are square before installing glass, and
do not install the glass till the greenhouse is on a permanent foundation.
 Do not place your greenhouse in vulnerable locations such as under trees, playing areas, etc.
 If using ladders/tools, ensure you are correctly trained in the safety of their use.
 Children should not play near glass greenhouses.
 REMEMBER: glass is fragile, handle with care! (Key point).
 Protective clothing such as gloves, strong outer clothing and eye glasses should be worn.
 Be careful when using agricultural chemicals such as fertilisers, fungicides and insecticides
etc. in the greenhouse. Do not use chemicals that are for outside use only. Always read the
labels very carefully.
 Do not push or lean on the glass panels.
 Use extra care when moving heavy or awkward objects such as tables, poles, internal frames
etc. within or near the greenhouse.
 Be aware of the increased temperature in the greenhouse on a sunny day.
 Do not keep pets or other animals in a greenhouse.
 When cleaning glass do not exert too much pressure.
 If your greenhouse is a painted one there are a few 1/8” holes in the end of the bars. These are
jig holes for painting and have no bearing on construction. (Key point).
 Powder coated packages are wrapped in polythene tubing – please be careful when opening.
e.g. Do not run a knife down the sides as you can scratch the paintwork.
 WHEN CONSTRUCTING A PAINTED MODEL PLEASE TAKE CARE NOT TO
DAMAGE THE FINISH BY WORKING ON CONCRETE OR PATIOS.

N.B. This plan covers the entire Titan 1000 range. The only difference between a 12ft long and
a 20ft long for example are a few extra pieces of alloy, glass, nuts and bolts etc. The construc-
tion of the sub-frame assemblies is the same but for the purposes of this booklet we have used
the 12x10 model as the benchmark. Therefore only one plan is needed.
We reserve the right to alter and improve our products.
DETAILED ASSEMBLY INSTRUCTIONS
The contents of this carton are divided into the different frame assemblies that collectively
make up the completed unit.
It is recommended that each framework assembly is fully completed before moving onto the next.
The frames to be constructed are as follows:
1. Side frame - two off
2. Rear gable – one off
3. Door gable – one off
4. Roof vent 10 x 10 = 2 frames
12 x 10 = 2 frames
14 x 10 = 4 frames
16 x 10 = 4 frames
18 x 10 = 6 frames
20 x 10 = 6 frames
5. Door – two off at 457mm wide.
WE CAN NOW COMMENCE WITH THE ASSEMBLY
If you are building your own brick base please refer to the dimensions in this booklet (labelled
“Elite Greenhouse Base Dimensions”). It is recommended that a concrete footing is built prior to
the laying of the bricks/blocks. Dwarf wall/dropped door modifications require a manufacturers
base plan.
Excavate a trench about 9” wide and dig down to hard earth or clay. Fill the trench with 4” approx.
of hard-core and cover with a concrete mix, ensuring that the final concrete is level. You can now
lay the bricks/blocks on top of this to the desired height, usually 2 courses of standard brick above
ground level.
N.B. All base work must be level and square and built to the precise outside measurements. (Key
point).

SIDE FRAME ASSEMBLY
From the pack you require:
Pack of side bars marked “side bars”
Pack of gutters and cills marked “side”
Pack of angles marked “side”
From the pack of fittings you need: nuts and bolts, glazing beading.
Procedure: For the point of this plan we have used a 12’ x 10’ side as an illustration, the procedure
is identical for a 10’ x 10’ and 20’ x 10’ apart from, you need more or less side bars, nuts and bolts,
glazing beading and longer or shorter gutters and cill. (Key point).
If you have purchased a partition with your greenhouse you will have 2 less roof and 2 less side
bars. These are replaced with an extra set of corner bars. You must decide where the partition is to
be situated and at that point leave out one side bar on each of the side frames. (Key point). The par-
tition is constructed when the greenhouse is fully erected prior to glazing. Full details of this proce-
dure given later in the booklet, but for the time being do nothing apart from the omission of the side
bar. If you have not purchased a partition disregard this and future notes relating thereto.
You need for each side frame: 1 gutter/eaves, 1 cill, 2 diagonal angles and 5 side bars. (N.B. For the
longer sides you have 4 diagonal angles per frame).
Before assembling any sections slide the required number of bolts into the glazing bars as detailed
in the relevant part of the booklet.

1. Slide the glazing beading into each side bar taking care not to
stretch the material. Trim off any surplus level with the ends of the
glazing bar. (Key point).
2. Lay the 9 components on the floor as though you were standing in-
side the greenhouse i.e with the gutter and cill facing downwards and
the bolt slot of the glazing bar upwards. (Key point). (Beading chan-
nel downwards).
3. Slide 3 bolts into each glazing bar (insert an extra two bolts into the bars that the louvre vent will
attach to). (Key point). The middle bolt of the three will be used later to attach
the cantilever tee bars. Fix the combined eaves and gutter bars to the glazing
bars by pushing the bolt previously inserted through the holes in the lower
flange of the eave and secure with a nut. Ensure that the glazing bar is pushed
up under the gutter and is tight up against the inside shoulder of the eave. (Key
point). Do the same with the rest of the glazing bars.
4. Fix the cill in a similar way to 3 above but start with the middle glazing bars
and work outwards. Before fixing the nut to the cill, read points 5 + 6.
5. If you are fitting the greenhouse onto a hard standing (brick, concrete etc.) then before attaching
the nut to the bottom bolt, fit the angle brackets as shown to each glazing bar. Angle bracket behind
diagonal angle where applicable.
6. The 2 outer glazing bars have the diagonal angle ties bolted to them. Before attaching the nuts,
place the tie bar over the bolts so that they point outwards towards the end of the eaves bar. They
must be arranged so that the internal part of the angle, in each case faces towards the middle of the
house. N.B. For the 10’ and 12’ models there are 2 angle ties per
side, for the 14’ there are 3 and for the 16’, 18’ and 20’ models
there are 4 per side: the extra braces are centrally positioned
(diagonally like the 2 end ones) for additional strength. (Key
point).
7. Ensure that the glazing bars are tight up against the cill and
inside shoulder of the eave, tighten all nuts. The nuts and bolts
are aluminium and only require one turn with the spanner after
first finger tip tightening. (Key point).
8. Do exactly the same with the other side frame.
9. If you intend to install louvres or shelf/staging to either of the
2 sides just built, they are supplied with ½ head bolts so can be
fitted retrospectively.
WELL DONE! YOU HAVE SUCCESSFULLY COMPLETED THE 2 SIDE FRAMES!

REAR END ASSEMBLY
For the construction of this frame you require from the main
box: 1 pack of corner bars marked “corner bars” and 1 rear end
pack marked “rear end”.
From the pack of fittings you need: nuts and bolts, glazing bead-
ing and gusset plates (1 large – ridge plate, 2 small – eave plates)
PROCEDURE
1. Starting with the pack of corner bars split the tape holding them together and first identify the 2
roof bars from the 2 side bars. The side bars have one hole and 1 mitre, both at one end. The other
end has no hole and is square cut. They are also shorter in length (1345mm) than the roof. The roof
bars have 4 holes in the flange and are mitred at both ends and in addition have a letter ‘R’ written
at the apex.

on the outside of the bar and are longer in length (1855mm). N.B. If your greenhouse is a painted
one, the roof corner bars will not be marked with a letter ‘R’. They can be identified from the side
bars as outlined above. (Key point).
The bars are also handed so you must identify the left and right hand. Standing up, hold one side bar
vertically in your left hand and the other in your right, rotate the bars so that the 2 bolt slots are fac-
ing in towards you, with the mitres at the top (inside view). Viewed this way the 2 mitres should run
down to each other. The roof bars can be handed similarly, keeping the bolt slots facing inwards
and the letter ‘R’ to the top. (With a painted model, the top can be identified by observing the 4
holes in the flange. The two holes nearest the end are at 50mm and 33mm centres, the 50mm end is
the top i.e. nearest the ridge). On the outside you can identify them by ensuring that the ‘R’s
(indicating ridge) are at the top, the mitres will then run into each other.
2. Slide the glazing beading into the 5 vertical glazing bars and the 4 corner bars, taking care not to
stretch the material. Trim off any surplus level with the end of the bars. N.B. the corner bars have 3
grooves to receive the glazing bead, do not put any in the middle one. (Key point). (Unless this ga-
ble will become an internal partition.)
3. Lay out the components of the frame on the ground as though you were standing on the inside i.e
with the bolt slot uppermost and beading channel downwards. Ensure that, having correctly identi-
fied the roof from the side corner bars, left and right hands (see previous text) you have the roof
bars with the letter ‘R’ (indicating ridge) at the top on the outside, i.e. towards the ground. (Key
point).
4. Slide 3 bolts into the alternative bolt slot of each roof corner bar bolt slots (see diagram for alter-
native and facing bolt slot description on page 13); leave 1 at the top, 1 at the bottom and one in the
middle. Put a nut on and lightly tighten, leaving them approx. 2” from the end of each bar. These
will be used later in the general assembly. For the side corner bar you need only insert 2 extra bolts
into the alternative bolt slots, 1 top and 1 bottom.
5. Starting at the apex (2 roof corner bars opposite each other marked ‘R’) slide 1 bolt into the fac-
ing bolt slot i.e. the one that is facing upwards and is set at 90º to the alternative bolt slots – 4
above. (Key point).
6. Place the ridge gusset plate (larger of the 2 types) over the bolt, slide the plate left or right until
the slotted hole in the plate lines up with the locating hole in the flange nearest to the end of the cor-
ner bar. Put nuts on both bolts i.e. flange and plate and leave the nut loose. (Key point).
7. Do exactly the same with the other roof corner bar ensuring that the two bars are pressed tight up
together behind the ridge gusset plate.
8. At this stage you do not need to use the middle, 5th hole in the gusset plate.
9. Now moving to the eave gusset assembly, slide one bolt into the facing bolt slot (the one that is
facing upwards and is at 90º see 4 above). Place the eave gusset plate (smaller of the 2 types) onto
the bolt and move it left or right until the next hole in the plate lines up with the locating hole in the
top of the side corner bar. Place a bolt through the hole and put a nut on finger tip tight only. (Key
point). Put a nut on the bottom bolt and leave loose.
10. Do the same with the other part of the same eave gusset plate, ensuring that both corner bars are
tight up against each other behind the eave plate.

11. Repeat steps 9 and 10 at the other corner with another eave gusset plate.
12. Attach the bottom cill to the left and right hand side corner bars by inserting a bolt into the fac-
ing slot. Line the bolts up with the 2 slotted holes at the end of the cill, put nuts on and tighten up
ensuring that the corner bars are pushed right down into the angle of the cill. (Key point).
13. You can now attach the 5 vertical glazing bars to the bottom cill in a similar manner to above.
The longer bar to the middle hole and the shorter ones to the outer holes. Before attaching the nuts
of the intermediate bar, place the diagonal angles (1635mm long) onto the bottom bolt and put a nut
on finger tip tight only. Attach the other end of the angle brace to the 2nd bolt up from the bottom of
the eave gusset plate. (Key point). Put on the nut and leave loose. (Key point). Do the same with
the other diagonal brace. If fitting to hard standing, repeat the installation instruction for the angle
brackets at the bottom of each glazing bar.
14. Moving to the top of the greenhouse, insert 5 bolts into the shorter two glazing bars and 4 bolts
into the intermediate two glazing bars and the longer middle glazing bar. The last bolt inserted in
each bar will attach to the pre-fabricated holes in the roof corner bar.
15. Now you can attach the long horizontal brace to the top bolts of the eave gusset plates. The an-
gle should be facing upwards, put the nuts on and finger tip tighten.
16. You can now attach the 5 vertical glazing bars to the roof/corner bars (long middle bar to the
ridge gusset plate). Slide the last bolt in each bar you inserted in 14 above to the top of each bar and
insert them through the holes in the flange of the roof corner bar, place the nuts on and finger tip
tighten.
17. Now attach the horizontal brace to the 4 upright glazing bars utilising the bolts you inserted in
14 above. Put the nuts on finger tip tight. (Key point). You should now have two bolts left in each
bar. They are used for the shelf.
18. It is easier to attach the shelf to the gable during initial construction so please observe the dia-
gram on page 11 and refer to the plan with the shelf brackets.
19. The rear end is now almost complete. Before tightening up all the nuts check the corners to en-
sure they are tightly up against each other and that all the vertical bars are tight up against the angle
of the rear end cill and corner bar. Tighten all nuts, the rear end is now complete.
20. Attach the diagonal angles to the 2 shorter glazing bars. Slide the bottom bolt previously insert-
ed in 14 above to the middle of the bar. Place the shelf clamp over the bolt and tighten so that the
diagonal angle is clamped to the glazing bar. (Key point). Tighten all nuts, the rear end is now
complete.

DOUBLE DOOR END ASSEMBLY
For the construction of this frame you require from the box:
1 pack of corner bars – marked “corner bars”
1 door end pack – marked “door end”
From the main bag of fittings you need: nuts and bolts, glazing beading and gusset plates – 1 large
(ridge plate), 2 small (eave plates)

PROCEDURE
The format of the door end is identical to the rear end assembly up to and including step 13 so
please refer to those items in the previous pages.
1. For step 14. Slide 4 bolts into each short vertical glazing bar, except short glazing bar over the
door. Do nothing but bead the small bar over the door.
2. The long door end glazing bars have 2 bolt channels. When in position, slide 3 bolts into the
channel closest to the corner bar and 2 bolts into the channel closest to the door opening.
3. The long horizontal brace is replaced by 2 shorter ones that attach to the upper bolt of the gusset
plate but stop at the longer middle bars to facilitate the doorway, (fix to the bolt slot nearest the cor-
ner bar).
4. There are 2 additional short horizontal braces that attach to the 2 shorter vertical glazing bars at a
point immediately above where the diagonal angle bolts to the bar, then to the longer intermediate
bars horizontally along which thus ensures the doorway remains well braced and perpendicular.
5. The main door track support can now be fitted at a point half way between the horizontal angle
and the corner bar. It is important to note that the 2 slotted holes at the extremes of this section are
facing upwards and not downwards. (Key point). Do not fit the top door track or the short glazing
bar above the door opening at this stage.
6. Check that all joints are tight and all braces are in position, and then tighten up all nuts. The end
is now complete.
You have now completed the 4 main frames of the structure which can now be joined together.
You need not do this procedure on the base but any flat surface near the greenhouse site. If your
base is prepared however, you can carry out the assembly there to save lifting it on later. But before
this we construct the vents and doors.

ROOF VENT ASSEMBLY
The roof vent pack has 5 pieces of aluminium: and from the main box of fittings you require
6’ of glazing beading
4 nuts and bolts
2 casement stay pins
1 casement stay
6 M4 stainless steel nuts and bolts
PROCEDURE:
1. Identify the slam bar and attach the 2 stay pins to the outer side of the angle using the M4
stainless steel nuts and bolts.
2. Lay the 4 edge pieces of the vent on a level surface as though you were on the inside of the
vent (with the bolt slots of the side bars uppermost and the ‘v’ slots of the bottom rail upper
most. The top rail is arranged in such a way that the squared off end is to the bottom and the
hooked hinge uppermost).
3. Slide the glazing beading into the slots in the side and top rails and trim to suit.
4. Insert a bolt into each end of the side rail bolt slots, put these bolts through the holes in the top
and bottom rails, add nuts and lightly tighten. Check that all joints are secure and that the
vent is square, and then tighten up the nuts.
5. Fit the casement stay using the M4 stainless steel nuts and bolts, putting the bolts through the
holes in the saddle of the stay and through the 2 elongated holes in the bottom rail. Hold the
nuts in place and tighten the bolts with a screwdriver.
Do the same with the other vents.
The vents can be positioned onto the ridge after general assembly
by sliding them along the ridge from the end and locating them to
the desired position.
Do not fit the vent at this stage.

DOUBLE DOOR FRAME ASSEMBLY
Each Door consists of:
1 unhanded door post
1 handed door post (handed post for left door is different profile to the handed right hand door post)
3 infill panels (1 with pre fabricated lock hole) for lock barrel
1 top and bottom door panels
3 panels of glass which must be fitted during door assembly
It is not possible to fit glass after the door is built
From the main bag of fittings you require:
door
2 door wheels
1 clip on nylon door skid (this might already be fitted to the bottom door panel)
2 lengths of black brush draught excluder with PVC carrier
Door lock, self tapping screws and spring washers
12’ glazing beading
Door handles
3 PVC Glass strips
Left hand Door (viewed from outside)
Identify the correct door posts. The handed door post for the left hand door has a bolt channel,
whereas the handed door post for the right hand door post does not. (Key point).
1. Place one unhanded post and the handed post for left hand door on a level surface roughly two
feet apart with the bolt slots facing downwards. (Unhanded door post on the left, handed door
post on the right). The top of each side post has two screw holes in it, the bottom has three.
(Key point). Slide the glazing beading into the groove of each bar i.e. only one length of glaz-
ing beading per bar.
2. Place the top, bottom and 3 infill panels in position as shown by the
position of the screw holes in the side pieces and the panels. The top
panel has the greenhouse name on it. The bottom panel has the edge
for the door skid to fit on. The lower infill panel locks on to the bottom
panel. The infill panel for the left hand door does not have a pre fabri-
cated hole for the lock barrel.
3. Fix the left hand door post to the door panels by screwing through the door side pieces into
the holes provided in the edge of the panels with the self tapping screws. The screws will go
in more easily and with out danger of trying to go crooked if you can put a small amount of
grease on the screw before assembling the doors. Alternatively, you could insert the screws
into the screw eyes of the door panels before assembling the door; this would have the effect
of pre-self tapping the panels prior to assembly, making assembly easier.
4. GLASS MUST BE FITTED TO EACH DOOR BEFORE THE 2ND DOOR POST IS
FITTED—(KEY POINT)

5. Before fitting the unhanded door post, offer the glass panels to the door (see glazing plan in
booklet for glass size guide on door), slide them in from the side. Carefully attach the unhand-
ed door post in the same way as before, ensuring the glass is sitting in the correct position
(sitting on the beading channels of the door posts) before tightening the screws.
6. Make sure all angles are square and tighten all screws. Now insert 2 glazing clips to the glass
on the unhanded door post.
The other side of the door is clipped using a P.V.C. glass strip (or clip cap). Cut the strip to
the correct length and push into the cavity between the glass and the handed door post. The
cap when fitted acts as a wedge to prevent movement of the glass. Metal clips are not fitted to
this bar.
7. Fix each door wheel into position by pushing the bolt provided through the centre of the
wheel and then through the hole in the top door panel from underneath (i.e. from the inside of
the door). Put the washer over the bolt and secure with the nut provided, tightening until there
is no movement on the bolt. The nuts are lock-nuts and are harder to put on than normal nuts
in general assembly. The wheel will revolve freely because it has ball bearings in it. The
wheel has a collar protruding from the centre, this collar goes against the inside face of
the top door panel. (See picture below).
8. Slip the nylon door skids on each of the bottom panels. This may already have been done pri
or to delivery. After fitting the doors (see later in the booklet), you may need to lower the
door skid so that it engages with the bottom door cill to allow smooth movement of the door.
Lower the skid on each door and insert a self tapping screw at each end of the skid to rein-
force the position.
9. Build the right hand door using the remaining handed and unhanded door post. Viewed from
the outside, the handed door post will be on the left of the door, while the unhanded door post
will be on the right. At this point you must decide the height you would like your door lock.
The hole to take the door lock is on the left hand side of the infill panel. You can decide to fit
this panel to the 2nd or 3rd panel down. Make sure you fit the glass before final fixing of
the door. See glazing plan towards the back of this booklet. Fit the lock after the doors are in
position on the greenhouse.
10. Thread the stainless steel backed brush extruder into the PVC carrier. This may already have
been done prior to delivery.
11. Turn the doors over and insert the black
brush draught excluder in the groove
(bolt slot) in the unhanded door posts.
Insert a nut and bolt at the bottom of each
unhanded door post and tighten so that
the brush will not slip down when the
door is in its upright position. Cut off the
surplus brush and carrier at the top of the
bar.
12. Do not fit the door to the gable at this
stage – wait until the structure is fully
assembled prior to glazing.
13. Door handles can now be fitted.

DOOR FRAME ASSEMBLY
FITTING THE DOOR HANDLES
The handles are fitted to the infill panel on each door (choose between 1st or 2nd panel down). Po-
sition the handle centrally, and mark the hole position. Drill 7mm diameter holes (2 holes per door),
then fit the handles, and secure with a nut and bolt.

ASSEMBLY OF THE GREENHOUSE UNIT
PROCEDURE
1. With the help of a willing assistant, stand up the rear gable and one of the sides. Standing on the
inside of the structure with the gutter facing away from you, insert the eave/gutter bar into the gap
between the corner bars, so that the inside flanges of the gutter which form the angle of roof and
side line up with the bolt slots in the corner bars. (Key point).
2. Undo the nuts holding the 2 bolts you inserted in the corner bars alternative bolt slot and slide
them into the slotted holes in the flanges. Put a nut on the top bolt, put the side diagonal brace on
the bottom bolt and then the nut and tighten up.
3. The bottom cill of the sides attaches to the corner bars in a similar way. Undo the nuts and bolts
inserted in the gable end assembly, move the cill under the corner bar so that the elongated hole in
the vertical flange of the side cill lines up with the bolt slot in the corner bar. Move the bolts down
the slot into the slotted hole, put a nut on and tighten up, ensuring that the corner bar is pushed right
down into the angle of the cill.