Elite Greenhouses 6'3" WIDE THYME User manual

PARTS LIST
4 x 6 6 x 6 8 x 6 10 x 6 12 x 6
1 Nuts & bolts M6 160 195 230 260 330
2 Band clips 258 320 374 434 490
3 Wire clips 16 20 20 20 20
4 Casement stay 1 1 2 2 2
5 Stay pins 2 2 4 4 4
6 Pins, nuts & bolts M4 6 6 12 12 12
7 Double door lock + cam 1 1 1 1 1
8 Short self tapping screws 28 28 28 28 28
9 Spring washer 2 2 2 2 2
10 Glazing beading 82m 101m 119m 139m 177m
11 Door guides 2 2 2 2 2
12 Eave plates Taped together with
one casement stay 4 4 4 4 4
13 Ridge plates 2 2 2 2 2
14 Door wheels & fittings 4 4 4 4 4
15 Ridge 1 1 1 1 1
16 Gutter / eave plate Taped together with
marked “side”2 2 2 2 2
17 Cill / side built in base 2 2 2 2 2
18 Side braces 2 4 4 4 4
19 Door end cill 1 1 1 1 1
20 Door end built in base (Built in base model only) 2 2 2 2 2
21 Handed tab cills for door end (Dwarf wall model only) 2 2 2 2 2
22 Top door track 1 1 1 1 1
23 Top door panel With name plate
taped together and
marked “door”
2 2 2 2 2
24 Bottom door panel 2 2 2 2 2
25 Middle door panel 6 6 6 6 6
26 Door track support 1 1 1 1 1
27 Handed/unhanded door posts 2/2 2/2 2/2 2/2 2/2
28 Cantilever bradce 3 6 9 12 15
29 Side glazing bar 6 10 14 18 22
30 Roof glazing bar 5 9 13 16 20
31 Intermediate roof glazing bar 1 1 2 2 2
32 Vent (in packs) 1 1 2 2 2
33 Door end glazing bars (various)
Taped together
marked “door end”
5 5 5 5 5
34 Door end horizontal angle 2 2 2 2 2
35 Door end diagonal angle 2 2 2 2 2
36 Small door track support 1 1 1 1 1
37 Rear end cill/built in base
Taped together and
marked “rear end”
1 1 1 1 1
38 Rear end glazing bars (various) 5 5 5 5 5
39 Rear end horizontal angle 1 1 1 1 1
40 Rear end diagonal angle 2 2 2 2 2
41 Corner bars in two packs 8 8 8 8 8
42 Threshold ramp 1 1 1 1 1
43 Diamond shelf for rear end 1 1 1 1 1
44 Bag of fittings (including plan) 1 1 1 1 1
45 5 blade louvre 2 2 2 2 2
46 Crestings and finnials 1 1 1 1 1

HELPFUL HINTS
· Please do take your time and be sure to read all instructions carefully before assembling.
· HELPFUL VIDEOS ARE AVAILABLE ON OUR WEBSITE
www.elite-greenhouses.co.uk
· Do not assemble frame in high winds.
· The greenhouse frame should be anchored to a permanent foundation. This will not only help
secure it against powerful wind but will help prevent breakage of the glass caused by the
freezing and thawing process of the earth.
· When building your own brick/concrete foundations ensure that they are level and square
otherwise your frame will not be correct and the glass will not fit.
· Be sure all four corners of the constructed greenhouse are square before installing glass, and
do not install the glass till the greenhouse is on a permanent foundation.
· Do not place your greenhouse in vulnerable locations such as under trees, playing areas, etc.
· Children should not play near glass greenhouses.
· REMEMBER: glass is fragile, handle with care!
· Protective eye glasses should be worn.
· Gloves should be worn.
· If your greenhouse is a painted one there are a few 3mm holes in the end of the bars. These
are jig holes for painting and have no bearing on construction. (Key point).
· When powder coated, the sub-frame assembly packages may slightly differ from the standard
alloy finish.
· Powder coated packages are wrapped in polythene tubing –please be careful when opening
e.g. Do not run a knife down the sides as you can scratch the paintwork.
WHEN CONSTRUCTING A PAINTED MODEL PLEASE TAKE CARE NOT TO
DAMAGE THE FINISH BY WORKING ON CONCRETE OR PATIOS
· N.B. This plan covers the entire 6’wide Thyme range. The only difference between a 6ft
long and an 8ft long for example are a few extra pieces of alloy, glass, nuts and bolts etc.
The construction of the sub-frame assemblies is the same but for the purposes of this
booklet we have used the 8 x 6 model as the benchmark. Therefore only one plan is
needed.
· We reserve the right to alter and improve our products.

INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS FOR THE 6’3”WIDE
“THYME”MODEL RANGE (Dwarf wall and Built in Base model)
The contents of this carton are divided into the different frame assemblies that collectively
make up the completed greenhouse framework.
It is recommended that each framework assembly is fully completed before moving onto the next.
The contents are as follows:
1 Two side frames
2 Rear end frame
3 Door end frame
4 Roof vents (number dependant upon length of greenhouse)
5 Doors
6 Bag of fittings containing:
· Nuts and bolts general assembly
· Clips for glass
· Casement stays for vents (1 per vent)
· Casement stay nuts and bolts
· Four eave plates (taped with the casement stay)
· Two ridge plates
· Two door wheels
· Two door guides
· Small self tapping screws
· 1 Double door lock + cam
7 Roof bars
8 Coils of glazing beading
9 One length of ridge
10 Two black brush draught excluders inc. carrier
For clear identification of parts and the number required please carefully refer to the earlier
pages of component drawings and parts list.
If your greenhouse is a dwarf wall model, the side cills will be the full length of the building
(up to 20’).
If your greenhouse is over 12’5”long the longer built in base side walls will be in 2 pieces (one of
which will be an 8’extension piece) which you join together by using one extra base leg/corner
bracket at the “middle end”of each side piece. The base legs in the middle return on themselves and
butt up to each other to form a ‘T’. Bolt them together to form a longer solid side e.g. 14’, 16’, 18’
or 20’. Bolt both angles together via the ‘spare’hole.
IMPORTANT: If you plan to erect the
greenhouse on a patio or flagged area, you need
to insert some extra bolts in the bolt channels,
(generally 1 every 2’). These will be used to
anchor the greenhouse to the floor later in the
assembly. Also if you have ordered a partition,
slide 1 extra bolt into the bolt slots of the built in
base.

SIDE FRAME ASSEMBLY
Start by assembling the side frames first.
· Slide the glazing beading into both V grooves of all glazing bars. Lay out
the pieces on the ground as though you were standing inside the house, i.e.
with the gutter and cill facing downwards, and the bolt channels of the glaz-
ing bar(s) upwards. For the 8x6 model, you will need 7 side glazing bars for
each side. (Key point).
· Slide a bolt into each end of each glazing bar. You must decide the position of the louvres.
Once decided, you must slide 2 bolts down each glazing bar onto which the louvre will attach.
In addition, your greenhouse will come as standard with a cantilever brace to be fitted to
every other bar. Slide a bolt into each bar that the cantilever will attach. (If you have bought
an additional shelf or staging to go in your greenhouse and you intend to fit it on a side wall,
use the ½”headed bolts provided with the shelf fittings).
· Fix the combined eaves bar and gutter to the glazing bars by pushing the bolts through the
holes in the eaves bar, and securing with a nut. You do not need to tighten the nuts too much
at this stage, but they need to be tight enough to stop the bolts slipping out of the glazing bar.
N.B. remember to omit two roof bars if you have a partition, one each side (see later detail
regarding partitions).
· Fix the side built in base/cill to the middle glazing bar by pushing the bolt through the hole in
the built in base/cill and tightening as before.
· If your greenhouse is over 12’long (and built in base model) see description and drawing for
how to join the 2 base pieces together (on previous page).
· Correctly position the built in base/cill on the outermost glazing bars by pushing the bolts
through the holes in the built in base/cill, but do not put the nuts on yet.
· Place the angled tie bar over these bolts so that they point outwards towards the ends of eaves
bar. They must be so arranged that the inside angle of the bar in each case faces towards the
middle of the house (i.e. the elongated slit will be by the eaves in one case and by the built in
base/cill in the other). (Key point). The 8’10’and 12’models have 2 diagonal tie bars on each
side. (14’has 3/side, 16’, 18’and 20’long buildings have 4/side).
· Put nuts on bottom bolts and lightly tighten.
· If you plan to fit the greenhouse (Built in base model only) to a hard standing (flags, concrete
etc.) then insert extra bolts into the bolt channel of the built in base (generally 1 every 2’).
These will be used to anchor the greenhouse to the floor later in the assembly.
· In addition, add 1 extra bolt at each end of the built in base. These bolts will be used to attach
the corner brackets. This applies for fitting onto both hard and soft standing.
· Do the same with the other side frame assembly.
· Make sure that the glazing bars reach both the built in base/cill and the eaves in each case.
· Tighten all nuts. (Key point).

(two with every house
except the 4’5”model
which only has one per
side).
Side glazing bars
3 if g/h is 4’5”long
5 if g/h is 6’5”long
7 if g/h is 8’5”long
9 if g/h is 10’5”long
11 if g/h is 12’5”long
SIDE FRAME ASSEMBLY
For dwarf wall model, the built in base in the picture is replaced with the side cill.
SIDE CILL

REAR END ASSEMBLY
Components:
1 built in base/cill
5 glazing bars
2 roof corner bars (marked “R”at the apex)
2 side corner bars (unmarked)
2 diagonal angles
1 horizontal brace
From the main bag of fittings you will require the nuts and bolts and beading.
You will also require 2 eave plates and 1 ridge plate. These are packed with one of the casement
stays and are separate from the main bag of fittings.
INSTRUCTIONS
Slide the glazing beading into the ‘V’groove of the glazing bars and the corner bars. (Do not put
beading into the middle slot of the corner bars). (Key point).
Lay out the frame as though you were standing on the inside of the greenhouse i.e. with the bolt
slot facing skywards. Roof corners marked “R”at the apex, opposite each other, facing down-
wards (i.e. “R”on outside). Roof corner bars are mitred at both ends where as side corner bars
are mitred at one end only. (Key point). The bolt slot is on the inside and faces inwards during
initial construction. If you have a painted greenhouse there is no letter “R”on the roof corner
bar. There are 4 holes/slots in your roof corner bar. Please ensure that the slotted hole is at the
apex. (Key point).
Slide one bolt into the bolt channel at both ends of all 4 corner bars. These will later be used in
the general assembly for fixing the ridge, eave and base/cill to the ends. From underneath the
roof corner bar, push a bolt into the hole at the top of the corner bar, and then put the ridge gus-
set plate over the top. Loosely put a nut on. Do the same at the top of the other roof corner bar.
Moving to the bottom of each roof corner bar and top of each side corner bar, do the same with
the eaves gusset plate but do not put a nut on the top bolt yet. N.B. if you have a 4’long green-
house, and the roof vent is going to fit to the rear of the greenhouse, insert an extra bolt into the
roof bar bolt slot. If your roof vent is going to fit towards the front of the greenhouse, then insert
the extra bolt into the door end assembly.
Attach the bottom built in base/cill to the side corner bars by inserting a bolt through the slotted
hole in the flange of the corner bar and into the slot in the built in base/cill. (Make sure the bolt
channel on the built in base is facing skywards.) (Key point).
Attach the vertical glazing bars to the built in base/cill by inserting a bolt into the bolt channel of
the glazing bars and locating it with the punched holes in the built in base/cill. Before securing
the nuts attach the angle diagonal ties to the bottom of the 2nd and 4th glazing bar as illustrated.
The top of the diagonal angle tie now attaches to the prefabricated holes in the side corner bar.
Slide four bolts into the bolt channel at the top of the 1st, 2nd, 4th and 5th vertical glazing bars.
Secure the last one in each bar to the roof corner bars by inserting the bolt through the punched
hole in the flange. Remember, if you are fitting a louvre into the rear gable, you must slide 2
bolts down each bar onto which the louvre will be fitted. (Key point).
You can now attach the horizontal angle brace to the top bolt of the eaves gusset plates and to
the other bolts in the glazing bars you inserted above. The horizontal brace does not bolt to the
1st 3rd and 5th glazing bar. The remaining bolts will be used to attach the diamond shelf. The

shelf can be fitted at any time provided the bolts have been inserted. See separate shelf fitting in-
struction.
Check that all angles between the base and the vertical members are at right angles and that the
glazing bars are right into the built in base at the bottom. (Key point).
Built in base model only.
If you are positioning your greenhouse on to hard standing, you need to insert bolts into the bolt
channel of the built in base in the same way as the side frame assembly (built in base model only)
These bolts will enable you to attach a bolt down bracket (generally 1 bracket every 610mm plus 1
at each end of the built in base to attach the corner bracket/base leg).
Attach the base legs/corner bracket to the end of the base, they are 400mm long and have 4 holes at
one end (bottom) and 2 elongated holes at the other end (top). The elongated hole will line up with
the bolt slot of the base and not the corner bar. If you are on solid hard standing, concrete or patio,
you will need to cut off the base leg level with the bottom of the base. The other side of the angle
will later bolt onto the side frame when you are doing ‘general assembly of the greenhouse unit’.
(Key point). If you are installing on to soft floor (grass, soil etc.) then the end of the base leg/corner
bracket with 4 holes will go into the ground and be concreted later.
Move to the joint of each corner bar behind the gusset plates and by pushing and pulling the struc-
ture, you can close any gaps that might be present. Ensure that all bars are tight down to the built in
base/cill.
Tighten all nuts.

REAR END ASSEMBLY
…….dotted line indicates corner bracket/base leg going into ground.

SHELF FITTING
The diamond shelf is intended to fit on the rear gable end of the greenhouse. Not only is it very
functional, but it adds lots of strength to the greenhouse.
The parts required for the shelf are:
2 shelf top sections
10”cantilever braces x 4
Angle supports with 45º mitre at one end x 4
Nuts/bolts
You must decide the height you want your shelf to be fitted. Fix one of the angle supports to the top
unoccupied bolt in the 1st, 2nd, 4th and 5th vertical glazing bar at the desired height (with the
square edge against the greenhouse wall, mitred edge sticking out). The angle supports must be ex-
actly the same height.
The shelf is not fitted to the corner bars when fixed to rear of greenhouse.
Attach a cantilever brace to the lower unoccupied bolt in the bolt channel of the glazing bar as
shown in the diagram above. Do not attach the other end of the cantilever yet.
The shelf top section are fitted to the angle supports utilising the bolt channel on the underside of
the shelf. Insert a bolt into the bolt channel of the shelf. Move into position where it will line up
with the pre-drilled hole in the angle support. Put a nut on and tighten. The cantilever attaches to the
angle support and the shelf top section using the same bolt (threaded onto the bolt channel of the
shelf top section). Do the same with all of the angle supports for both shelf runners. You will notice
that the shelf is approx. ½”from the back wall. This is to enable the diagonal angle to remain in po-
sition.
Where the shelf top sections are joined to form lengths over 8’, the head of the bolt is secured so
that it fixes the edge of both joining slats. Only 1 angle support and cantilever is required on the
join.
Your shelf is now complete.

DOOR END ASSEMBLY
Components
1 Door end cill
2 Door end built in base/ cill with handed tab
1 Threshold ramp
5 Glazing bars
2 Short horizontal braces
2 Diagonal angles
2 Roof corner bars (marked “R”)
2 Side corner bars (unmarked)
1 Main door track support
1 Top door track
2 Rectangular plates
From the main bag of fittings you will require the beading, nuts and bolts. You will also require 2
eave plates and 1 ridge plate. These are packed with one of the casement stays and are separate
from the main bag of fittings, unless you have already split this pack for the rear end assembly.
INSTRUCTIONS
Assemble the frame in exactly the same way as the rear end, up to and including paragraph 3 of the
rear end. The difference with the door end is that instead of 1 long base/cill piece, the door end has
2 smaller pieces (1 either side of the door opening) and 1 door end cill. The long end glazing bars
on the door end are longer than the equivalent rear end glazing bars. Please note, you only require
approx. 200mm of beading in the inside ‘v’groove of the 2nd and 4th glazing bars. If dwarf wall
model, the cill has a tab on 1 end of each bar making it a handed bar. The tab is fitted towards the
centre of the greenhouse rather than the corner bar.
Built in base only.
Now attach the built in base sections/cills to the corner bars, leaving a
space for the door(s) in between.
Now engage the door end cill with the 2
built in base cills by pushing the angle of the
cill under the locator as shown in the dia-
gram. At this stage the cill will move freely
left and right but will remain located to the
built in base cill.
Slide 2 bolts into the bottom of the 2nd and
4th glazing bar and 3 bolts (only 1 if green-
house to be sited on soft ground) into the free end of each built in base
section. Attach the bottom bolt in the 2nd and 4th glazing bar to the
hole in the door end cill, but do not put a nut on yet. Note: the 2nd
and 4th door end glazing bars are longer and do not sit on top of
the base (as the rear end glazing bars do), they go down the side of
the built in base and attach to the bottom cill. (Key point).
Attach the rectangular plate (with 3 slotted holes) to the 2 bolts inserted
in the glazing bars and the last bolt inserted into the base ensuring that
the glazing bar is tight down into the angle of the door end cill. Attach
the diagonal angle brace to the top bolt of the rectangular plate, and
then to the bottom bolt of the eaves gusset plate. The 2 unoccupied

bolts in the base sections will be used to anchor the greenhouse to the floor.
Slide 2 bolts down the 1st and 5th glazing bar from the top, and 3 bolts down the 2nd and 4th glaz-
ing bar. Secure the last one in each bar to the roof corner bars by inserting the bolt through the
punched hole in the flange.
Dwarf wall only.
The bottom door end cill has a section cut out at each end allowing the cill to fit inside the 2 brick
pillars. The channel on the cill is outside the brickwork.
Dwarf wall only.
For dwarf wall models, insert 1 bolt into the bottom of the 1st
and last glazing bar and 2 into the bottom of the longer bars.
Attach 1st and last glazing bar to the hole in the cill using the
inserted bolt. The higher of the inserted bolts in the longer bars
attach to the hole in the tab cill, and the lower bolt to the bottom
door cill.
Attach the main door track support (shaped like a letter ‘Z’to be
found with the door panels) to the 2 vertical glazing bars ap-
prox. 130mm below the point where they meet the corner bars.
(Key point). This ‘Z’shaped bar must be fitted with the two
outside slots facing upwards not downwards.
Now you can attach the smaller middle glazing bar to the ridge
gusset plate and the unoccupied hole in the centre of the main
door track support. You may need to adjust the position on the
door track support to fit to the glazing bar.

The two horizontal braces attach to the top bolt in the gusset plate and the vertical glazing bars.
Stand the frame up and bolt the door track to the main door track support and the small angle
door track support by inserting 4 bolts into the bolt slot of the door track. Position 3 of these
through the 3 holes in the door track support above the door opening. The
small angle door track support (which is to be fitted after the greenhouse is
completely assembly, but prior to glazing) has 2 elongated holes at the top
and is blank at the bottom. Attach one of the holes to the bolt slot at the back
of the door track using the 4th bolt, and then by using a self tapping screw,
you can attach the blank end of the bar to the continuous screw groove on the
corner bar. See door end assembly. When this has been achieved tighten all
nuts. (For dwarf wall models this is easier to do when the 4 sides of the
greenhouse are bolted together and sitting on the wall.)
Built in base only.
Attach the base leg/corner bracket so that it is pointing downwards. If you are fitting your green-
house onto soft ground, then do not fit the corner bracket yet. If you are on a patio, you will need
to cut the bracket off level with the bottom of the built in base and slide extra bolts into the bolt
channel to be attached to the anchor bracket (generally 1 every 2’). If you are on soil, the bracket
will go into the ground at general assembly.
N.B. Please note carefully the correct position of the main door support. The slotted holes at ei-
ther end are facing skywards NOT downwards. (Key point).
Now insert beading and fit the small glazing bar above the door. Attach to the middle hole in the
ridge gusset plate and the slot in the middle of the main door track support.
Please note, you only require approx. 150mm of beading in the inside ‘v’groove of the door end
glazing bars.
The two horizontal braces attach to the top bolt (as rear end) in the gusset plate and the vertical
glazing bars. The horizontal braces do not bolt to the 1st and 5th glazing bar.
Now you can attach the door end cill to the bottom of the 2nd and 4th glazing bar. You must en-
sure that the “U”groove is on the outside (ie facing the floor). This groove is to enable the doors
to slide on the outside of the greenhouse. The threshold ramp is attached at the end of assembly
so put to one side for now. For the built in base models, you have already done this earlier.
N.B. Please note carefully the correct position of the main door track support. The slotted holes
at either end are facing skywards not downwards.

DOOR END ASSEMBLY

DOOR FRAME ASSEMBLY
Each Door consists of:
1 unhanded door post
1 handed door post (handed post for left door is different profile to the handed right hand door
post)
3 infill panels (1 with pre fabricated lock hole) for lock barrel
1 top and bottom door panels
3 panels of glass which must be fitted during door assembly
It is not possible to fit glass after the door is built
From the main bag of fittings you require;
2 door wheels
1 clip on nylon door skid (this might already be fitted to the bottom door panel)
2 lengths of black brush draught excluder with PVC carrier
Door lock, self tapping screws and spring washers
12’glazing beading
Door handle
3 PVC Glass strips
Left hand Door (viewed from outside)
Identify the correct door posts. The handed door post for the left hand door has a bolt channel,
whereas the handed door post for the right hand door post does not. (Key point).
1. Place one unhanded post and the handed post for left hand door on a level surface roughly
two feet apart with the bolt slots facing downwards. (Unhanded door
post on the left, handed door post on the right). The top of each side
post has two screw holes in it, the bottom has three. (Key point). Slide
the glazing beading into the groove of each bar i.e. only one length of
glazing beading per bar.
2. Place the top, bottom and 3 infill panels in position as shown by the
position of the screw holes in the side pieces and the panels. The top
panel has the greenhouse name on it. The bottom panel has the edge for the door skid to fit
on. The lower infill panel locks on to the bottom panel. The infill panel for the left hand door
does not have a pre fabricated hole for the lock barrel.
3. Fix the left hand door post to the door panels by screwing through the door side pieces into
the holes provided in the edge of the panels with the self tapping screws. The screws will go
in more easily and with out danger of trying to go crooked if you can put a small amount of
grease on the screw before assembling the doors. Alternatively, you could insert the screws
into the screw eyes of the door panels before assembling the door, this would have the effect
of pre-self tapping the panels prior to assembly, making assembly easier.
4. GLASS MUST BE FITTED TO EACH DOOR BEFORE THE 2ND DOOR POST IS
FITTED—KEY POINT.

5. Before fitting the unhanded door post, offer the glass panels to the door (see glazing plan in
booklet for glass size guide on door), slide them in from the side. Carefully attach the un-
handed door post in the same way as before, ensuring the glass is sitting in the correct posi-
tion (sitting on the beading channels of the door posts) before tightening the screws.
6. Make sure all angles are square
and tighten all screws. Now
insert 2 glazing clips to the glass
on the unhanded door post.
The other side of the door is
clipped using a PVC glass strip (or clip cap). Cut the strip to
the correct length and push into the cavity between the glass
and the handed door post. The cap when fitted acts as a
wedge to prevent movement of the glass. Metal clips are not
fitted to this bar.
7. Fix each door wheel into position by pushing the bolt provid-
ed through the centre of the wheel and then through the hole
in the top door panel from underneath (i.e. from the inside of
the door). Put the washer over the bolt and secure with the
nut provided, tightening until there is no movement on the bolt. The nuts are lock-nuts and
are harder to put on than normal nuts in general assembly. The wheel will revolve freely
because it has ball bearings in it. The wheel has a collar protruding from the centre, this
collar goes against the inside face of the top door panel. (See picture below).
8. Slip the nylon door skids on each of the bottom panels. This may already have been done
prior to delivery.
9. Build the right hand door using the remaining handed and unhanded door post. Viewed from
the outside, the handed door post will be on the left of the door, while the unhanded door
post will be on the right. At this point you must decide the height you would like your door
lock. The hole to take the door lock is on the left hand side of the infill panel. You can de-
cide to fit this panel to the 2nd or 3rd panel down. Make sure you fit the glass before final
fixing of the door. See glazing plan towards the back of this booklet.
10. Thread the stainless steel backed brush extruder into the PVC carrier. This may already have
been done prior to delivery.
11. Turn the doors over and insert the black
brush draught excluder in the groove
(bolt slot) in the unhanded door posts.
Insert a nut and bolt at the bottom of
each unhanded door post and tighten so
that the brush will not slip down when
the door is in its upright position. Cut
off the surplus brush and carrier at the
top of the bar.
12. Do not fit the door to the gable at this
stage –wait until the structure is fully
assembled prior to glazing.
13. Door handles can now be fitted.

DOOR FRAME ASSEMBLY

ROOF VENT ASSEMBLY
The roof vent pack has 6 pieces of aluminium: and from the main box of fittings you require:
10’of glazing beading, 1 casement stay, 6 nuts and bolts, 6 M4 stainless steel nuts and bolts,
2 casement stay pins,
PROCEDURE:
Identify the slam bar and attach the 2 stay pins to the outer side of the angle using the M4 stainless
steel nuts and bolts. The slam bar is a piece of 40 x 25mm angle cropped at each end to accommo-
date the glazing bars.
Lay the 5 edge pieces of the vent on a level surface as though you were on the inside of the vent
(with the bolt slots of the side bars uppermost and the ‘v’slots of the bottom rail uppermost. The
top rail is arranged in such a way that the squared off (this face is notched with a ‘V’) end is to the
bottom and the hooked hinge uppermost).
Slide the glazing beading into the slot in the side and top rails and the intermediate glazing bar and
trim to suit.
Insert a bolt into each end of the side rail bolt slots, put these bolts through the holes in the top and
bottom rails, add nuts and lightly tighten. Check that all joints are secure and that the vent is square.
Fit the casement stay using the M4 stainless steel nuts and bolts, putting the bolts through the holes
in the saddle of the stay through the 2 elongated holes in the bottom rail. Hole the nuts in place and
tighten the bolts with a screwdriver. You must fit the casement stay before fitting the intermediate
glazing bar. (Key point).
The intermediate glazing bar can now be attached to the central hole in the top vent rail and also to
the hole in the bottom vent rail.
Check that both side rails and intermediate glazing bar are fastened tight to the top and bottom rail
and pushed up/down as far as possible. Tighten all nuts.
Do the same with the other vents if applicable.