Elite Greenhouses WIDE MAXIM User manual

PARTS LIST
We reserve the right to make improvements to our range of models.
4 x 4 6 x 4 8 x 4 10 x 4
1Nuts and bolts M6 94 108 122 140
2Wire Clips 192 228 268 304
3Overlap clips 27 33 39 45
4Casement stay 1111
5Stay pins 2222
6Pins, nuts and bolts M4 6666
7Double Door catch 1111
8Self tapping screw 28 28 28 28
9Glazing beading (m) 55 64 76 86
10 Door guides 4444
11 Door End Plate 2222
12 Eave plates Taped together with 4444
13 Ridge plates one casement stay 2222
14 Door wheels and fittings 4444
15 Ridge 1111
16 Gutter/eave 2222
17 Built in Base Side 2222
18 Side braces 2224
19 Door End Built in base 2222
20 Top door track 1111
21 Top door panel With name plate taped 2222
22 Bottom door panel together and marked 2222
23 Middle door panel "door" 6666
24 Door track support 1111
25 Door posts (2 handed, 2 unhanded) 4444
26 Side glazing bar 2468
27 Roof glazing bar 2468
28 Vent (in packs) 1112
29 Door end glazing bars Taped together and 2222
30 Long Door end horizontal angle marked "Door end" 2222
31 Door End Horizontal Angle 2222
32 Door end diagonal angle 2222
33 Door track support flat bar 2222
34 Rear end built in base 1111
35 Rear end glazing bars Taped together and 2222
36 Long Rear end horizontal angle marked "Rear end" 1111
37 Rear End Horizontal Angle 1111
38 Rear end diagonal angle 2222
39 Corner bars in two packs 8888
40 Cantilever Brace 2468
41 Angle base legs/ corner brackets 4444
42 Glass made up of;
See glazing key at back of
booklet
43 Full sheet toughened glass
See glazing key at back of
booklet

HELPFUL HINTS
Please do take your time and be sure to read all instructions carefully before assembling.
Consider purchasing the Elite Installation tool kit – see accessory brochure for contents of kit.
Do not assemble frame in high winds.
The greenhouse frame should be anchored to a permanent foundation. This will not only help secure
it against powerful winds but will help prevent breakage of the glass caused by the freezing and
thawing process of the earth.
When building your own brick/concrete foundations ensure that they are level and square otherwise
your frame will not be correct and the glass will not fit.
Be sure all four corners of the constructed greenhouse are square before installing glass, and do not
install the glass till the greenhouse is on a permanent foundation.
Do not place your greenhouse in vulnerable locations such as under trees, playing areas, etc.
Children should not play near glass greenhouses.
REMEMBER: glass is fragile, handle with care!
Protective eye glasses should be worn.
Gloves should be worn.
If your greenhouse is a painted one there are a few 1/8”/3mm holes in the end of the bars. These are
jig holes for painting and have no bearing on construction. (Key point).
WHEN CONSTRUCTING A POWDER COATED MODEL PLEASE TAKE CARE NOT
TO DAMAGE THE FINISH BY WORKING ON CONCRETE OR PATIOS. Take great
care in opening the polythene packages. Do not run a knife down the side of the packs as this
may scratch the paintwork.
N.B. This plan covers the entire Maxim range. The only difference between a 4ft long and a
10ft long for example are a few extra pieces of alloy, glass, nuts and bolts etc. The construc-
tion of the sub-frame assemblies are the same but for the purposes of this booklet we have
used the 4 x 4 model as the benchmark. Therefore only one plan is needed.
We reserve the right to alter and improve our products.

INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS FOR THE 4’3” WIDE MODEL
“MAXIM RANGE”
The contents of this carton are divided into the different frame assemblies that collectively
make up the completed greenhouse framework.
It is recommended that each framework assembly is fully completed before moving onto the next.
The contents are as follows:
1. Two side frames
2. Rear end frame
3. Door end frame
4. Roof vent
5. Doors
6. Bag of fittings containing:
a. Nuts and bolts general assembly
b. Overlap clips for glass
c. Spring clips for glass
d. Casement stay
e. Casement stay nuts and bolts
f. Four eave plates (not in the main bag, but taped up with the casement stay)
g. Two ridge plates
h. Four door wheels
i. Four door guides
j. Small self tapping screws
k. Double door catch
l. 2 door end plates
7. Roof bars
8. Coil of glazing beading
9. One length of ridge
10. Two black rubber draught excluders
For clear identification of parts and the number required please carefully refer to he earlier
pages of component drawings and parts list.

SIDE FRAME ASSEMBLY
STARTING with the side frame;
The base is integrated with the cill for each side of the greenhouse, and is assembled onto each
subassembly rather than separately laid out.
Components required;
4’ long = 1 side bar, 1 eave bar, 1 base/cill, 1 angle tie bar
6’ long = 2 side bars, 1 eave bar, 1 base/cill, 1 angle tie bar
8’ long = 3 side bars, 1 eave bar, 1 base/cill, 2 angle tie bars
10’ long = 4 side bars, 1 eave bar, 1 base/cill, 2 angle tie bars
1. Lay out the pieces on the ground as though you were standing inside the house i.e. with the
gutter and cill facing downwards and the bolt channel of the glazing bars upwards. (Key
point)
2. Slide the glazing beading into each side bar taking care not to stretch the material. Trim off
any surplus, level with the ends of the glazing bar.
3. Slide a bolt into each end of each glazing bar, and another bolt in the middle to be used to se
cure a cantilever brace. If you have bought a shelf to go in your greenhouse and you intend to
fit it on a side wall, use the ½” headed bolts provided with the shelf fittings.
4. Fix the combined eaves bar and gutter to the glazing bars pushing the bolts through the holes
in the eaves bar and securing with a nut. You do not need to tighten the nuts too much at this
stage, but they need to be tight enough to stop the bolts slipping out of the glazing bar.
5. Fix the built in base cill to the middle glazing bar by pushing the bolt through the hole in the
cill unit and tightening as before. (4’ long model will only have 1 side glazing bar per side
assembly, 2 for the 6’ etc.)
6. Correctly position the built in base cill on the outermost, glazing bars by pushing the bolts
through the holes in the cill, but do not put the bolts on yet, (6’, 8’ and 10’ models only).
7. Place the angled tie bar over these bolts so that they point outwards towards the ends of the
eaves bar. They must be arranged so that the flat bit of the angle in each case faces towards
the middle of the house (i.e. elongated slit will be by the eaves in one case and by the cill in
the other. (Key point). 4’ and 6’ long model will have 1 side diagonal per side. This is to
attach to the top of the 1st glazing bar and then will attach to the gable end during general
assembly.
8. Put nuts on the bottom bolts and lightly tighten.
9. Do the same with the other side frame assembly.
10. Make sure that the glazing bars touch both the cill and the eaves in each case. Tighten all nuts.
11. If you are fitting your greenhouse onto hard standing (flags, concrete etc.), then insert bolts
into the bolt channel of the built in base (generally 1 every 2’). These will be used to anchor
the greenhouse to the floor during general assembly. Do not insert these bolts if you intend to
install your greenhouse on to soft ground.

SIDE FRAME ASSEMBLY
BEWARE OF SHARP EDGES!

REAR END ASSEMBLY
N.B. The roof corner bars are marked “R” on the outside, which indicate that they meet at the
ridge and are also mitred at both ends. If you have a painted greenhouse there is no letter “R” on
the corner bar. You must ensure that the “middle” hole is nearer to the eaves plate than the
ridge plate. (Key point).

REAR END ASSEMBLY
From the main bag of fittings you will require the nuts and bolts, two eave plates and one ridge
plate. These are packed with the casement stay and are separated from the main bag of fittings.
Components:
1 alloy built in base cill
2 glazing bars
2 diagonal bracing angles
2 horizontal bracing angle (1 longer than the other)
2 roof corner bars (marked “R” at the apex)
2 side corner bars (unmarked)
Corner bars are in two packs of 4 and are identical for both gables. They are marked “corner bars”.
INSTRUCTIONS
1. Lay out the frame as though you were standing on the inside i.e. with the bolt slot uppermost,
roof corners marked “R” at the apex, opposite each other, facing downwards (i.e. “R” on out
side). The roof corner bars are mitred at both ends where as side corner bars are mitred at one
end only (Key point). The bolt slot is on the inside and faces inwards during initial construc-
tion. If you have a painted greenhouse there is no letter “R” on the corner bar. You must
ensure that the “middle” hole is nearer to the eave plate than the ridge plates. (Key point).
2. Slide the glazing beading into each glazing bar and corner bar taking care not to stretch the
material. Trim off any surplus level with the ends of the glazing bar. The corner bars have 3
grooves to receive beading. Do not use the middle one, only the two outer grooves require
beading.
3. Slide two bolts into the bolt channel of each corner bar, put a nut
on and finger tip tighten approx 3” from the end of the bar. These
will later be used in the general assembly for fixing the ridge, eave
and cill to the ends. Now secure the Ridge Gusset Plate and Eaves
Gusset Plates by inserting bolts through the ‘plates’ and into the
holes punched in the flange of the corner bar, at the apex and eave.
Do not tighten the nuts and bolts in the gusset plate at this stage,
finger tip tighten is sufficient.
N.B. If you have the 4’ option the roof vent slam bar will attach to one
of the corner bars. You will need to insert an extra bolt into the bolt slot of the corner bar onto
which the vent will close.
Attach the built in base cill to the side corner bars by inserting a bolt through the hole in the flange
of the corner bar and into the slot in the cill.
4. Attach the vertical glazing bars to the built in base by inserting a bolt into the bolt channel of
the glazing bars and locating it with the punched holes in the cill. Before securing the nuts
attach the angle diagonal angle ties to the same bolt as illustrated. The top of the diagonal
angle tie now attaches to the pre-fabricated holes near the top of the side corner bar. There are
3 holes near the top of the side corner bar, and you must ensure you use the top bolt hole.
(Key point).

5. Slide three bolts into the bolt channel at the top of the two vertical glazing bars and secure the
third one to the roof corner bars by inserting the bolt through the punched hole in the flange.
6. You can now attach the short horizontal angle brace to the top bolt of the gusset plate and to
the other bolts in the glazing bars you inserted in 6, above.
7. Now attach the longer horizontal brace to the top bolt hole (of 3) in the side corner bar, and
also to the vertical glazing bars using the 1st bolt inserted in the glazing bars. This longer
horizontal bar is attached to the same hole as the diagonal angles.
8. Check that all angles between built in base cill and the vertical members are at right angles
and that the glazing bars are right into the angle cill at the bottom. (Key point).
9. Tighten all nuts.
10. Slide two extra bolts into the built in base cill. This will be used later to attach the angle base
leg. This angle is 400mm long and has 6 holes in. It is the end with one elongated hole each
side that bolts to the built-in-base.
11. Slide a bolt into the bolt slot in the built in base section, one at each end. Attach the corner
bracket/angle base leg so that it is pointing downwards. If you are fitting your greenhouse on
to soft ground, then do not fit the corner bracket/angle base leg yet. If you are on a patio, you
will need to cut the bracket off level with the bottom of the built in base then before fitting,
then slide extra bolts into the bolt channel to be attached to anchor brackets (generally 1 every
2’). If you are on soil, the bracket/angle base leg will go into the ground at general assembly.

DOOR END ASSEMBLY
From the main bag of fittings you will require the nuts and bolts, 2 eave plates and 1 ridge plate.
These are packed with the casement stay and are separate from the main bag of fittings and two
door end plates.
Components
2 Door end built in base
2 End glazing bars
2Side corner bars (unmarked)
1Top door track
4Short horizontal braces (2 different lengths)
3Diagonal bracing angles
1Main door track support
2Roof corner bars (marked “R”)
2 Door End Plates
INSTRUCTIONS
1. Assemble the frame in exactly the same way as the rear end, up to and including stage 3 of the
rear end. The difference with the door end is that instead of 1 long base piece, the door end
has 2 smaller pieces (1 either side of the door opening) and 1 door end cill.
2. Now engage the door end cill with the 2 built in base cills by pushing the angle of the cill
under the locator as shown in the diagram. At this stage the cill will move freely left and right
but will remain located to the built in base cill.
3. Slide 2 bolts into the bottom of each glazing bar and 3 bolts
(only 1 if greenhouse to be sited on soft ground) into the
free end of each built in base section. Attach the 2nd bolt in
the glazing bar to the hole in the door end cill, but do not
put a nut on yet.
4. Attach the door end plate (with 3 holes) to the 2 bolts
inserted in the glazing bars and the last bolt inserted into
the base ensuring that the glazing bar is tight down into the
angle of the door end cill. Attach the diagonal angle to the
top bolt of the door end plate. The 2 unoccupied bolts in the
base sections will be used to anchor the greenhouse to the
floor.

5. Insert 4 bolts into the bolt channel of each vertical glazing bar. The last bolt will now be used
to attach the glazing bar to the pre fabricated hole in the roof corner bar.
6. Attach the main door track support (shaped like a letter
‘Z’ to be found with the door panels) to the top
unoccupied bolt inserted above. (Key point). This ‘Z’
shaped bar must be fitted with the two outside slots facing
upwards (as illustrated) not downwards. Slide the main
door track support as high up the glazing bar as possible
and tighten. (Key point).
7. The two shorter horizontal braces attach to the top bolt in
the gusset plate and the vertical glazing bars using the pre
inserted bolt.
8. The longer horizontal braces now attached to the side corner bar (same bolt hole as the
diagonal brace) and the last unoccupied bolt in the glazing bar.
9. Stand the frame up and bolt the door track to the main door track support by inserting 3 bolts
into the bolt slot of the door track. Position 3 of these through the 3 holes in the door track
support above the door opening.
10. Insert 2 extra bolts into each end of the door track which will be used later during general
assembly.
11. When this has been achieved tighten all nuts.
12. Slide a bolt into the bolt slot in the built in base section, one at each end. Attach the corner
bracket/angle base leg so that it is pointing downwards. If you are fitting your greenhouse on
to soft ground, then do not fit the corner bracket yet. If you are on a patio, you will need to
cut the bracket off level with the bottom of the built in base and slide extra bolts into the bolt
channel to be attached to the anchor bracket (generally 1 every 2’). If you are on soil, the
bracket will go into the ground at general assembly.
N.B. Please note carefully the correct position of the main door support. The slotted holes at either
end are facing skywards NOT downwards. (Key point).
Please note, you only require approx. 40mm of beading in the inside ‘v’ groove of the end glazing
bars.

DOOR END ASSEMBLY

DOOR FRAME ASSEMBLY
Follow the procedure below for each door.
Components consist of:
2 door glazing bars for each door (1 handed, 1 unhanded)
(handed posts of each door meet in the middle)
3 infill panels
2 top and bottom door panels
From the main bag of fittings you require for each door:
2 door wheels
2 clip on nylon door skids
1 length of black rubber draft excluder
12’ glazing beading and self tapping screws
BEWARE OF SHARP EDGES
1. Place the two door glazing bars on a level surface roughly 12” (305mm) apart with the bolt
slots facing downwards. The top of each side piece has two screw holes in it, the bottom has three.
(Key point).
2. Looking at the handed door posts in profile with the 2 holes at the top (3 holes at the bottom)
the open box part of the section goes to the outside i.e. on right hand door – left hand upright, on
left hand door – right hand upright.
3. Slide glazing beading into the channels of the glazing bars, apart from the outside channels of
the two outer bars.
4. Place the top, bottom and 3 infill panels in position as shown, lining up the screw holes in the
side pieces and panels. The top panel has the greenhouse name on it. The bottom panel has the edge
for the door skids to fit on. The lower infill panel locks on to the bottom panel.
5. Fix the door together by screwing through the door side pieces into the holes provided in the
edge of the panels with the self-tapping screws. The screws will go in more easily and without dan-
ger of trying to go crooked if you can put a small about of grease on the screw before assembling
the doors. Alternatively, you could insert the screws into the screw eyes of the door panels before
assembling the door, this would have the effect of pre-self tapping the panels prior to the assembly
making assembly easier.
6. Make sure all angles are square and tighten all screws.
7. Fix each door wheel into position by pushing the bolt provided through the centre of the
wheel and then through the hole in the top door panel from underneath (i.e. from the inside of the
door). Put the washer over the bolt and secure with the nut provided, tightening until there is no
movement on the bolt. The nuts are lock-nuts and are harder to put on than the normal nuts in gen-
eral assembly. The wheel will revolve freely because it has ball bearings in it. The door wheels
have a shoulder in the middle that protrudes on one side. The shoulder, when fitted to the door goes
against the inside edge of the top door panel.
8. Slip the nylon door skids on each end of the bottom panel.

9. Turn the door over and insert the black rubber draught excluders in the groove (bolt slot) in
each unhanded door post. Push up to the top of the door and trim off the surplus at the bottom.
With a pair of pliers squeeze the groove together at the bottom so that the rubber will not slip down
when the door is in its upright position.
10. Do exactly the same with the right hand door remembering that the draught excluder is insert-
ed into the right hand bar i.e. unhanded one.
11. Do not fit the doors to the gable at this stage – wait until the structure is fully assembled prior
to glazing.
12. Having assembled both doors you need to attach a piece of alloy angle to the rear of the right
hand door. The angle is equal in length to the door posts and has 3 holes equally spaced. Insert bolts
into the bolt slot of the left hand upright of the right hand door, attach the angle, put on and tighten
the nuts.
13. The door catch can be fitted once the doors are hung and working properly. You will need to
decide where you want the catch to go and drill 4 holes in the horizontal door panels to accommo-
date the catch as illustrated.

ROOF VENT ASSEMBLY
The roof vent pack has 5 pieces of aluminium and from the main box of fittings you require:
2m of glazing beading
4 nuts and bolts
2 casement stay pins
1 casement stay
6 M4 stainless steel nuts and bolts
PROCEDURE:
1. Identify the slam bar and attach the 2 stay pins to the outer side of the angle using the M4
stainless steel nuts and bolts.
2. Lay the 4 edge pieces of the vent on a level surface as though you were on the inside of the
vent (with the bolt slots of the side bars uppermost and the ‘v’ slots of the bottom rail uppermost.
The top rail is arranged in such a way that the squared off end is to the bottom and the hooked hinge
uppermost).
3. Slide the glazing beading into the slot in the side and top rails and trim to suit.
4. Insert a bolt into each end of the side rail bolt slots, put these bolts through the holes in the
top and bottom rails, add nuts and lightly tighten. Check that all joints are secure and that the vent is
square, then tighten up the nuts.
5. Fit the casement stay using the M4 stainless steel nuts and bolts, putting the bolts through the
holes in the saddle of the stay through the 2 elongated holes in the bottom rail. Hold the nuts in
place and tighten the bolts with a screwdriver.
6. Do the same with the other vents.

ASSEMBLY OF GREENHOUSE UNIT

The first operation is to connect the two side frames to the end frames to form the outer shape of the
completed structure. Another pair of willing hands would be useful at this stage.
1. Lift the first side frame into its position by the rear end.
2. Slot the eaves bar into the small space between the roof and side corner bar so that the gutter
is outside the end frame and the two flanges that form the angle of the roof and side are inside and
tight up against the bolt slots of the roof and side corner bar. (Key point).
3. The extra bolts that were inserted in the bolt slots during the gable end assembly can now be
used.
4. Line up the elongated holes in the flanges of the eaves with the bolt slots and slide the bolts
into them. Put a nut on the top bolt and tighten up. (Key point).
5. The built in base attaches to the inside of the corner bar. The bolt placed in the corner bar bolt
slot at gable end assembly will slide down into the slotted hole at the end of the built in base cill.
Likewise with the angle base leg, this can now be attached to the end built in base cill utilising the
bolts inserted at frame assembly.
6. Do the same at the other three corners
7. Slide the glazing beading into both sides of the ridge before attaching the ridge to the roof
corner bars. Insert the end of the ridge through the small gap in the corner bars at the top, the verti-
cal part of the ridge will be outside, pointing skywards and the two flanges that form the angle of
the roof will be inside, tight up against the bolt slots of the roof corner bars.
8. Line up the slotted holes at the end of the ridge with the bolt slots in the corner bars. Push the
two bolts, previously inserted during the gable end assembly into the slots. Put on nut and tighten.
9. The roof bars can now be attached to the
ridge and gutter. Attach them to the ridge first
by sliding a bolt into the bolt slot of the glazing
bar and inserting it through the hole in the
flange of the ridge. Put a nut on and tighten up.
Do the same with the rest of the roof bars.

10. Before bolting the bottom of the roof bar to the flange of the eave bar, insert extra bolts. In-
sert 1 bolt into the bottom of each roof bar to enable the cantilever brace to be fitted. Where the vent
is to be positioned put an extra one bolt per bar i.e. the vent covers two glazing bars so two extra
bolts per vent. (Key point). Then attach the final
nut and bolt to the eave bar as illustrated.
11. Now attach the cantilevers brace as shown
in the diagram using the bolts inserted above and
in the side frame assembly.
NOW YOU CAN FIT THE VENT TO THE RIDGE
12. Slide the vent onto the ridge from either end and into the desired position. Before sliding the
vent into the ridge, slide a piece of black tube into the vent hinge socket. Slide the vent into posi-
tion, insert a small self tapping screw into the tube approximately ½ way along then tighten the
screw. The tube will expand and lock into position thus preventing sideways movement of the vent.
N.B. There is no hole for the screw but it will easily push into the tube and screw up. (Key point).
You only require one tube per vent on the left hand side of the vent socket (viewed from inside the
greenhouse).
The vent overlaps the two glazing bars that it covers so is therefore wider than the opening.
N.B. With a 4’ long building or if your vent is next to an end the flexible tube will only function if
the vent is in either bay No 1 or on right hand side or last bay on left hand side. (Viewed when
walking through the door).