Elite Greenhouses TITAN K800 User manual

PARTS LIST 6X8 8X8 10X8 12X8 14X8 16X8 18X8 20X8
150’ Glazing beading 10101010
2100’ Glazing beading 23344556
3Eave gusset plate 22222222
4Brush draught excluder 22222222
5Top door panel Taped
together
and marked
door
22222222
6Bottom door panel 22222222
7Door infill panels 66666666
8Door track support 11111111
9Ridge
Taped
together
11111111
10 Gutter / Eave 11111111
11 Front cill 11111111
12 Heavy angle brace 11111111
13 Rear end glazing bar 33333333
14 Rear end cill 11111111
Taped
together
and marked
end
15 Rear end horizontal bracing angle 11111111
16 Rear end wall bar 11111111
17 Door end cill + ramp 11111111
18 Door end glazing bar 33333333
19 Door end horizontal bracing angle 11111111
20 Door end wall bar 11111111
21 Door glazing bars—handed/unhanded 2/2 2/2 2/2 2/2 2/2 2/2 2/2 2/2
22 Front glazing bars—marked front 23456789
23 Front diagonal angles 22222222
24 Corner bars—taped in two packs
1 = left end, 1 = right end
44444444
25 Short bracing angles marked door end 44444444
26 8’ shelf 11111111
27 Vent (in packs) 11112233
28 Louvre (in packs) 11111111
29 Door track 11111111
30 Roof glazing bars 23456789
31 Top hats (length of greenhouse) 22222222
32 The following items can be found in the bag of fittings or additional packages.
Skeleton gun, tube of silicon, rolls of foam seal, anchor brackets, stainless steel screws, plastic plugs, M6 nuts and bolts,
casement stays, stay pins, M4 pins, nuts and bolts, door lock, short and long self tapping screws, spring washers, door
wheels and fittings.
The parts list will alter slightly depending upon the position of the double doors. Above is on the assumption the door is in
the gable.

HELPFUL HINTS
 Please do take your time during construction and follow the safety code.
 Read all instructions carefully.
 Ensure that your base is level and square and built to the precise measurements indicated at the
base section of this booklet.
 Base must be 90º to the wall it leans against.
 Do not alter the dimensions or shape of any component unless indicated to do so.
 This plan covers the entire range of 8’ wide lean-to models and their options including door posi-
tions (front, gable end or double front), louvre location, shelf construction and vent construction.
 It is therefore possible that you may have remaining components on the completion of construc-
tion. The reason for this would be because one option has been chosen in preference to another.
 This detailed assembly instruction booklet will explain the construction procedures you require to
correctly install your particular structure.
 For the purpose of coloured models:
 There may be some jig holes in some bars, these holes play no part in the assembly but assist in
the painting process.
 Extra care must be taken in assembly of all coloured models so as not to scratch the paint and
hence affect the appearance of the structure.
SAFETY
 When using electrical equipment outside always use a circuit breaker.
 Do not attempt to construct frame or glazing of lean-to in high winds.
 Glass is fragile, so safety gloves and eye protection should be worn when glazing any part of the
structure.
 Please remember that if lean-to is to be situated over an entrance to a house or dwelling, 4mm
safety glass must be used to eave level. Horticultural glass is unacceptable in this situation.
 Do not place structure in vulnerable situation. Children should not play near glass greenhouses.
Failure to observe these rules could result in personal injury or property damage.
Required Tools:
1. 10mm spanner
2. Heavy duty cross head screwdriver
3. Pair of pliers
4. Electric drill/circuit breaker
5. Masonry bit
6. Hacksaw
7. Sharp cutting tool (e.g. knife to cut beading)
8. Metal file

CONSTRUCTION OF FRAMEWORK AND WORK PROCEDURE
The structure should be completed from start to finish in the following order;
1. Floor/base preparation
2. Construction of frame assemblies
3. Joining of sub-assemblies to make full size frame
4. Securing structure to the base and wall
5. Glazing
6. Finishing off
Each of the above procedures are detailed at the appropriate stages of this booklet.
BASE SIZE AND PREPARATION (for concrete bases only) GABLE DOOR ONLY
N.B. If your doors are on the length of the greenhouse, i.e. under the gutter, then reduce B measure-
ment by 35mm, and increase A measurement by 35mm.
For brick base/dwarf wall/drop door models, or any other door configuration, please contact Elite
for a base plan.
If your greenhouse length is longer than or a modification of the above, contact Elite for a base
plan. If you have a corner location, i.e. one end missing – all base lengths reduced by 40mm.
All bases of any material must be level and square and built to exact outside measurements.
CONSTRUCTION OF THE FRAMEWORK ASSEMBLIES
The building is divided into a number of different frame assemblies.
1. Right hand gable end frame
2. Shelf installation
3. Left hand gable end frame
4. Front frame assembly
5. Roof assembly
6. Double door assembly
7. Roof vent assembly
8. General assembly of greenhouse unit
9. Construction and installation of louvre
N.B. If you have a partition, it is not assembled as an independent frame but is done at various stag-
es during different parts of assembly.
The installation procedure should follow the above format and it is recommended that you complete
each one fully before moving onto the next frame. For the purpose of this booklet, we have used an
8 x 8 lean–to as the basis for construction. If you have purchased another size, the principles of the
job are identical.
K800 Length
(Dimension B)
Parallel to host
wall
Width
(Dimension A)
Depth at 90° from
wall
√
Square
External ridge
height
(Excluding base)
6 x 8 model 1.9910m 2.534m 3.222m 2.743m
8 x 8 model 2.609m 2.534m 3.636m 2.743m
10 x 8 model 3.225m 2.534m 4.101m 2.743m
12 x 8 model 3.843m 2.534m 4.603m 2.743m
14 x 8 model 4.461m 2.534m 5.130m 2.743m
16 x 8 model 5.079m 2.534m 5.676m 2.743m
18 x 8 model 5.697m 2.534m 6.235m 2.743m
20 x 8 model 6.315m 2.534m 6.804m 2.743m

All bases, of any material must be level and square and built of the exact outside measure-
ments.
If you are putting a concrete footing down it is wise to dig a trench around the perimeter removing
all top soil, insert some hard-core (broken brick etc.) into the trench and back fill with concrete.
You can now begin to lay the required course of brick, remembering to insert a damp-proof strip
one or two courses above ground level.
ELITE GREENHOUSES BASE DIMENSIONS
For Brick, Block, Concrete or Timber
The standard greenhouse is supplied with flat cills enabling it to be fixed to any level surface
without the need for a brick base.
The dimensions given on the previous page must be used to locate the position of your lean-to onto
a flat concrete floor.
When placing your order, you should have decided upon the door position. For the purposes of this
plan, we have made the left hand gable the door end, but it can just as easily be the right hand end,
so please read the instructions with the alternative in mind. (Key point).
ALLOY BASE ASSEMBLY
If you have ordered a separate alloy base then follow this instruction, if not disregard this
step.

RIGHT HAND GABLE END FRAME
Please note that for the purpose of this plan, we have made the right hand gable end rear end (i.e.
not the door end), but it could just as easily be the left hand gable end. So please read this section
and the left hand gable end section with the alternative in mind.
From the main box you require:
1. Set of corner bars marked RIGHT END CORNER BARS
Set of glazing bars, angle and cill marked END
This contains A) Wall bar
B) Bottom cill
C) 3 Glazing bars
D) Horizontal bracing angle
E) Shelf
From the bag of assorted fittings and fitting within the box, you will require
One eave gusset plate
Nuts and bolts
Coil of glazing bead
N.B. See front of booklet for component diagram key.

Procedure
If you have ordered a built in base model, please see separate amendment sheet before begin-
ning construction.
1. Split the tape holding the corner bars together and also the tape holding the glazing bar, angle
and cill. Slide glazing beading along the beading channel of the two outer grooves of the cor-
ner bars, (as seen in diagram below).
The use of long nosed pliers and warm soapy water is useful for the beading process.
When threading the glazing beading along the bars, there is a tendency for it to stretch and later
contract. It is therefore advisable to have the beading protruding approx. 25mm at each end of each
bar which can then be pushed back at either end if necessary.
Before assembly, you must ensure that the beading is flush with the ends of the bar. It may be nec-
essary to trim the beading to size.
2. The longer of the other bars is the wall bar and has only one groove for glazing bead, while
the glazing bar has two grooves for glazing bead. Slide glazing bead in to these channels in the
same way as for the corner bars.
3. The corner bars now need to be distinguished between a roof corner bar and a side corner bar.
a. The roof corner bar is 2589mm long and has 5 holes in the flange, and is mitred at both ends.
b. The side corner bars is 1952mm long and has 1 hole in the flange, and is mitred at one end
only.
Having determined which corner bar is the roof and side, you must now establish which way round
they go for assembly purposes.
c. Side corner bar -The end that is mitred and with only one hole in the flange near to the mitre
is the top of the bar. The bolt slots are to be on the inside for assembly purposes.
d. Roof corner bar -There is a mitre at both ends and 5 holes in the flange. The smallest of the
two mitres is to be the top of the bar i.e. it is to be placed nearest to the ridge. The other end with
the most severe mitre will go to the eave to marry up with the side corner bar.
4. Lay out the component parts on the ground with the bolt slots uppermost in the positions
shown. Ensure that the wall bar is laid on the ground in a way so that the beaded section of the bar
is on the inside for glazing purposes.
5. Now you must add the nuts and bolts to the bars. The dia-
gram on page 10 illustrates the bolt configuration for the rear end
gable. Where a dot appears, a bolt with a finger tip tightened nut
should be slid along the bolt slot of the bar. In the case of the cor-
ner bars, the bolt should be slid along the facing bolt slot which
faces up, and not the alternative bolt slot facing sideways.
Your greenhouse comes as standard with a 5 blade louvre. For the
purpose of this plan we have assumed it will be fitted on the rear
gable, so 4 nuts have been inserted as shown, if your louvre is po-
sitioned on another part of the greenhouse, then insert 4 bolts to the
relevant position.

6. Roof corner bar—into the alternative bolt slot (facing sideways on
each roof corner bar), slide 6 bolts – 1 top, 1 bottom and 4 middle, put a
nut on and finger tip tighten, these will be used later in the general assem-
bly.
7. Side corner bar— slide 3 bolts, 1 top, 1 bottom and 1 middle into
alternative bolt channel. Starting with the side corner bar put the eave gus-
set plate over the top bolt in the facing bolt slot utilising the bottom hole in
the plate. Slide the plate left or right until the next hole i.e. 2nd from the
bottom in the gusset plate lines up with the hole in the flange of the side corner bar. Put nuts on and
leave loose.
8. Next using the bolt previously inserted in to the bottom of the roof corner bar in the facing
bolt slot, place the gusset plate over utilising the top hole in the plate. Do not put a nut on at this
stage.
9. Slide the gusset plate left or right until the last hole not used (i.e. 2nd hole from top) lines up
with the hole in the flange of the roof corner bar. Put a nut on the bolt and leave loose.
The diagram of the gusset plate on page 8 will assist in the construction.
10. Attach the bottom cill to the side corner bar using the previously inserted bolt in the facing
bolt slot of the side corner bar. Slide the bolt downwards and into the slot on the cill. Put the nut
back on and finger tip tighten (see diagram on previous pages for more detailed description of this
assembly).
11. Next attach the wall bar and glazing bars to the cill (having first threaded the glazing bead in
to the channels of all bars). Starting with the wall bar, using the bottom bolt previously inserted into
the wall bar, offer the wall bar to the slotted hole in the bottom left side of the cill. Move the bolt
downwards and into the slotted hole. Put the nut back on and finger tip tighten.
12. The glazing bar can now be attached to the cill in the same way as the wall bar.
13. Both the glazing bar and wall bar can now be fitted to the flange in the roof corner bars. Insert
the bolt at the top of the wall bar and glazing bar in to the holes in the flange of the roof corner bar.
Put a nut on both bolts and finger tip tighten.

14. Next the horizontal bracing angle can be fitted. The angle can be fitted either upwards or
downwards. Place one end to the top bolt of the gusset plate (the one unoccupied by a nut –put a
nut on and finger tip tighten. Now utilising the highest bolts previously inserted into the wall bar
and glazing bars, slide these bolts up or down so that they are in line with the horizontal bracing
angle and insert them through the holes in the horizontal bracing angle. Put nuts back on and finger
tip tighten.
N.B. The extra hole in the middle of the horizontal bracing angle simply means that the bar is not
handed, i.e. it can go at either end of the structure.
15. This gable end is almost complete. Before tightening all nuts, you must ensure the following.
a. The corner joint behind the eave gusset plate is tight, i.e. Corner bars are touching behind the
gusset plate and that the roof corner bar is sitting on top of the side corner bar.
b. The glazing bars are pushed right up to the roof corner bar.
c. The glazing bars are pushed right down to the angle of the cill.
d. The horizontal bracing angle is on the top bolt of the eave gusset plate and that it is parallel to
the cill.
16. Tighten all the nuts. Take care not to over tighten.
17. You can now fit the shelf. N.B. You have already inserted the bolts for the shelf so there is no
need to add more.
18. The louvre is an independent frame and is bet-
ter fitted to this gable when the house is assembled,
prior to glazing.
Right hand end installation is now complete.

SHELF FITTING
The standard shelf is intended to fit on the rear gable end or side of the greenhouse. Not only is it
very useable, but it adds lots of strength to the greenhouse.
The parts required for the shelf are:-
Top slat sections x 2
Cantilever braces x 5
Angle brackets x 4
Angle supports x 5
Nuts/bolts
You must decide the height you want your shelf to be fitted. Fix one angle support to each vertical
glazing bar at the desired height utilising the pre-inserted bolts. Do not fit the angle support to the
corner bar yet. Fix an angle bracket to the corner bars at the same height as the angle support, and
another angle bracket to the same corner bar approx. 200mm below the 1st. Note, the orientation of
the angle bracket in the diagram.
Attach the angle supports to the angle brackets with the square edge against the greenhouse wall.
(chamfered edge sticking out). The angle support must be fitted to the slot closest to the fold on the
long side of the angle bracket.
Fix a cantilever bar to each vertical glazing bar approx. 200mm below the angle support, and also to
the lower angle bracket on the corner bar.
Slide 1 bolt per angle support into the bolt channel on the underside of each top slat, and line up
with the slots in each angle support. When attaching the slat to the mitred end of the angle support,
you must also attach the unoccupied hole at the end of the cantilever brace to the same position.
NB. The tee bar cantilever is a universal part used in the greenhouse for other purposes and shelves.
If the angle appears slightly ‘out’ it can easily be moved into position by altering the angle with a
pair of pliers, if necessary.

LEFT HAND GABLE END FRAME
If you have a double gable door, the opening MUST be in the centre bays of the gable.
Please note that for the purpose of this plan, we have made the left hand gable the door end, but it
could just as easily be the right hand gable end. So please read this section and the preceding one
with the alternative in mind.
From the main box you will require:
1. Set of corner bars marked LEFT HAND END CORNER BARS
2. Set of glazing bars, angle and cill marked END
This contains A) Wall bar
B) Door cill
C) 3 Glazing bars (1 small to fit above the door)
D) 1 Horizontal bracing angle
3. Set of angles marked DOOR END
From the bag of assorted fittings and fittings within the box, you will require:
One eave gusset plate

Procedure
1. The initial construction of this gable is identical to the right hand gable except for the changes
listed below. Door end does not consist of louvre or shelf. The diagram below shows the bolt con-
figuration for the door end. (Again a dot indicates a bolt).
N.B. If your door is on the front, (parallel to the wall) then repeat the bolt configuration for R H
end (except for shelf and louvre bolts).
On the door end there are a combination of short bracing angles to be fitted which can be found in
the main box marked DOOR END.
2. These four bars like the horizontal bracing angle, can be fixed either upwards or downwards (for
aesthetic reasons we suggest that you attach them the same way as horizontal bracing angle). Using
the previously inserted bolts, attach the short bracing angle to the unit
as shown (exact distances are not required). Put nuts back on and fin-
ger tip tighten all three bars.
3. The door track support looks similar to a ‘Z’ bar (see component
drawings at beginning of booklet). The door track support is fitted on
2nd and 4th glazing bars from the wall, using the two remaining unoc-
cupied nuts and bolts. The end slotted holes must face upward like a
letter ‘U’ (see diagram). Key Point.
4. Tighten all nuts remembering not to over tighten. The door track support may need altering
slightly in the construction, so finger tip tight will be sufficient at this stage.
N.B. Do not fit the door track at this stage – this will be done later in General Assembly.
DOOR TRACK SUPPORT

FRONT FRAME ASSEMBLY
From the main box and subsidiary extension packages you will require:
1 Eave/gutter bar
1 Cill – Taped together in one bundle marked FRONT (the ridge is also in this pack)
1 Heavy angle brace
1 Pack of glazing bars marked FRONT
i) if unit is 6’ long = 2 bars
ii) 8’ long = 3 bars
iii) 10’ long = 4 bars
iv) 12’ long = 5 bars
2 – bracing angles
N.B. If you have ordered a partition, you need to decide where it will be situated. At that point you
substitute a partition corner bar for a glazing bar. The heavy angle brace needs to be cut to go either
side of the partition corner bar. If your building is over 20’ you will have an extension package
which has an inclusive partition – not the same as the above detail.
The partition corner bars have vertical saw cuts at each end to allow them to fit on and into the gut-
ter, ridge and cill pieces.

Regarding the partition, you need do nothing more at this stage. When the greenhouse is fully con-
structed and anchored to the wall and base, you build the partition in situ and not as an independent
frame. (Key point).
Procedure:
1. Insert the glazing bead in to the gutter/eave bar and glazing bars as shown below (in the
manner previously outlined).
2. Lay out the component parts on the floor with the bolt slots uppermost. The
gutter and cill are facing the ground.
3. Insert 3 bolts into each glazing bar (1 – top, 1 – middle, 1 – bottom). If you
are fitting a front door, insert an extra bolt into the top of each glazing bar that
form the door opening. These will be used later in the installation of the door.
4. For double doors, do not fit a glazing bar in the centre of the door way. i.e.
vertical bar No 2 on the picture is not supplied or fitted.
5. Attach the gutter/eave bar to the top of each glazing bar utilising the top bolt
in each glazing bar as illustrated.
6. The bottom cill will bolt to the bottom of the glazing
bars in a similar manner. Before securing the nut on to
the bottom bolt of the outer glazing bars, place the di-
agonal brace angles over the bolt. The bracing angles
must be arranged so that the inside of the angles are
facing each other.
7. Attach the horizontal angle brace utilising the previ-
ously inserted bolts and position the bar around the
middle of each glazing bar. Ensure that the horizontal
angle brace is parallel to the gutter/eave bar and cill.
8. Ensure all points are tight and frame is square before
tightening nuts.
9. Front frame assembly is now complete.

GENERAL ASSEMBLY OF GREENHOUSE UNIT

A Attach right and left hand gables to front frame.
1. Stand the right hand end frame and the front up so that they meet at the right front corner. Push
the gutter/eave bar into the small gap between the roof and side corner bars so that the slotted holes
at the end of the eave flanges line up with the bolt slot in the corner bar. The gutter is OUTSIDE the
end frame and the two flanges that form the angle of the roof and side are INSIDE and tight up
against the bolt slots of the roof and side corner bars. (Key point).
The extra bolts inserted into the corner bar alternative bolt slot during gable end assembly can now
be slid into the slots in the eave bar to secure the corner.
2. The bottom cill attaches to the inside of the corner bar. The bolt placed in the bolt slot at gable
end assembly will slide down into the slotted hole at the end of the cill.
3. Do the same operation with the left hand gable and front frame.
4.Next, attach the horizontal front angle and two diagonal bracing angles to the extra; third bolt in-
serted in the side corner bars.
B The next step is to put the roof on and this is done in 3 stages.
1 Attaching the ridge
Firstly insert the glazing beading into the 'v' groove, then in the same way the gutter slotted into
the corner bars so too does the ridge. Slot the ridge on to the corner bar, ensuring that the flat side of
the ridge is facing the wall. The bolts inserted in the roof corner bars at original frame assembly can
now be slid into the slots at the end of the ridge. (Key point).
See pictures on next page.

2 Securing the roof bars
Firstly thread the glazing bead into both grooves of each roof glazing bar, as previously described in
an earlier section.
Starting at one end (your choice).
1. Slide 4 bolts along the bolt slot of each roof glazing bar. Add an extra bolt to the roof bars
onto which the roof vents will be fitted. Please note the roof vent must be fitted between 2
roof glazing bars. It cannot be fitted to an end or partition corner bar. Add the nut and finger
tip tighten.
2. From the top of the glazing bar (and all other glazing bars when you arrive at that stage), slide
1 bolt down the bolt slot, and attach to the prefabricated hole in the ridge bar.
3. Then repeat at the bottom of each roof glazing bar and attach to the gutter bar.
4. Attach all the other glazing bars to the gutter and ridge in the exact same way as above.
5. Tighten all the nuts taking care not to over tighten.
3 Sliding the vent into position
The hinge is a groove ball and socket joint, the socket is an integral part of the ridge, the ball being
a part of the vent top rail (Key point). You must identify correctly these two sections.
Then slide the vent on to the ridge from one end. With the vent in the open position, push the vent
along the ridge until it covers the middle section (if your greenhouse is more than 3 panes long you
must decide which section the vent is to be situated in). The two side rails of the vent will overlap
the outside edges of the middle two roof bars.

The vent slam can now be fitted to the two roof bars just underneath the bottom rail of the vent.
The ends of the slam bar are cut out to go round the profile of the roof glazing bar. Secure the slam
bar with the top bolt in each bar that the vent is fitted, that were inserted when you fitted the bottom
of the roof bars to the eave.
The slam bar is an unequal angle and it attaches to the roof with the longer part of the angle point-
ing skywards, i.e. toward the bottom rail of the vent, and the shorter part of the angle pointing to the
gutter, i.e. the outside corner of the angle is facing inside the structure. (Key point).
To prevent the vent moving left/right during operation, insert a bead of silicone into the hinge part
of the ridge at the end of the vent top rail. This can be done later when sealing the frame to the wall
(see page 22).
1. On all models there are 2 top hat roof sections that are fitted along the length of the greenhouse.
2. Each top hat has 2 holes every 2’ to match the hole spacing of the gutter and ridge.
3. An extra pair of hands would be useful at this stage.
4. Line up the holes with the previously inserted bolts in each roof corner and glazing bar and posi-
tion 1 top hat directly under the vent slam bar and the 2nd top hat approximately 700mm up from
the eave.
5. If you have a partition, then the top hats will be pre-cut to enable fixing around the partition cor-
ner bars. One top hat will have a flat cut at each end, and the 2nd (the extension) will be notched at
1 end only. The notched end will fix to the ‘outside’ of the partition corner bar. (Outside of the cor-
ner bar is the side of the partition that the door slides).