Elite Greenhouses STREAMLINE Series User manual

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PARTS LIST
4 x 5 6 x 5 8 x 5 10 x 5
1Nuts and bolts M6 90 100 110 124
2Band clips 164 204 244 284
3Wire clips 10 10 10 14
4Overlap clips 26 32 38 44
5Casement stay 1112
6Stay pins 2224
7Pins, nuts and bolts M4 6666
8Double door lock 1111
9Self tapping screw 28 28 28 28
11 Glazing beading (m) 49 58 68 77
12 Door guides 4444
13 Eave plates Taped together with 4444
14 Ridge plates one casement stay 2222
15 Door wheels and fittings 4444
16 Ridge 1111
17 Combined eaves bar and gutter 2222
18 Built in base side 2222
19 Side diagonal braces 2244
20 Door end built in base 2222
21 Door end cill 1111
22 Rectangular connecting plates 2222
23 Top door track 1111
24 Top door panel With name plate taped 2222
25 Bottom door panel together and marked 2222
26 Middle door panel "door" 6666
27 Door track support 1111
28 Door posts (2 handed, 2 unhanded) 4444
29 Side glazing bar 2468
30 Roof glazing bar 2468
31 Vent (in packs) 1112
32 Door end glazing bars Taped together and 2222
33 Door end horizontal angle marked "Door end" 2222
34 Door end diagonal brace 2222
35 Door track support flat bar 2222
36 Rear end built in base 1111
37 Rear end glazing bars Taped together and 2222
38 Rear end horizontal angle marked "Rear end" 1111
39 Rear end diagonal braces 2222
40 Corner bars in two packs 8888
41 Corner Brackets 400mm long 4444
42 Glass made up of;
See glazing key at back of
booklet
43 Full sheet toughened glass
See glazing key at back of
booklet

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HELPFUL HINTS
 Please do take your time and be sure to read all instructions carefully before assembling.
 Consider purchasing the Elite construction pack to help you with the installation – contact
your dealer for details.
 Do not assemble frame in high winds.
 The greenhouse frame should be anchored to a permanent foundation. This will not only help
secure it against powerful winds but will help prevent breakage of the glass caused by the
freezing and thawing process of the earth.
 When building your own brick/concrete foundations ensure that they are level and square
otherwise your frame will not be correct and the glass will not fit.
 Be sure all four corners of the constructed greenhouse are square before installing glass, and
do not install the glass till the greenhouse is on a permanent foundation.
 Do not place your greenhouse in vulnerable locations such as under trees, playing areas, etc.
 Children should not play near glass greenhouses.
 REMEMBER: glass is fragile, handle with care!
 Protective eye glasses should be worn.
 Gloves should be worn.
 If your greenhouse is a painted one there are a few 1/8” holes in the end of the bars. These
are jig holes for painting and have no bearing on construction. (Key Point).
 WHEN CONSTRUCTING A PAINTED MODEL PLEASE TAKE CARE NOT TO
DAMAGE THE FINISH BY WORKING ON CONCRETE OR PATIOS. Take great
care in opening the polythene packages. Do not run a knife down the side of the packs
as this may scratch the paintwork.
 N.B. This plan covers the entire Streamline range. The only difference between a 4ft
long and a 10ft long for example are a few extra pieces of alloy, glass, nuts and bolts etc.
The construction of the sub-frame assemblies is the same but for the purposes of this
booklet we have used the 6 x 5 model as the benchmark. Therefore only one plan is
needed.
 We reserve the right to alter and improve our products.

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INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS FOR THE 5’3” WIDE MODEL
“STREAMLINE RANGE”
The contents of this carton are divided into the different frame assemblies that collectively
make up the completed greenhouse framework.
It is recommended that each framework assembly is fully completed before moving onto the next.
The contents are as follows:
1. Two side frames
2. Rear end frame
3. Door end frame
4. Roof vent
5. Doors
6. Bag of fittings containing:
 Nuts and bolts general assembly
 Overlap clips for glass
 Spring clips for glass
 Casement stay
 Casement stay nuts and bolts
 Four eave plates (not in the main bag, but taped up with the casement stay)
 Two ridge plates
 Four door wheels
 Four door guides
 Small self tapping screws
 Double door catch
 Two connecting plates
 Two flat bar small door track supports
7. Roof bars
8. Coil(s) of glazing beading
9. One length of ridge
10. Two black brush draught excluders
For clear identification of parts and the number required please carefully refer to he earli-
er pages of component drawings and parts list.

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SIDE FRAME ASSEMBLY
STARTING with the side frame—with a built in base model the base is an integral part of
each frame, and is therefore not built as a separate entity.
Components
1 Gutter/eave bar
1 Built in base
Glazing bars 1 if 4’m long, 2 in 6’long, 3 if 8’ long, 4 if 10’ long and 5 if 12’ long
Side diagonal brace 1 if 4’ or 6’ long, 2 if 8’, 10’ or 12’ long
From the bag of fittings you will need nuts and bolts and glazing beading
1. Lay out the pieces on the ground as though you were standing
inside the house i.e. with the gutter and cill facing downwards and the
bolt channel of the glazing bars upwards. (Key Point). The single bolt
slot in the base also faces upwards.
2. Slide the glazing beading into each side bar taking care not
to stretch the material. Trim off any surplus level with the ends of
the glazing bar.
3. Slide a bolt into each end of each glazing bar. (If you have bought a shelf , staging or louvre
to go in your greenhouse and you intend to fit it on a side wall, use the ½” headed bolts provided
with the shelf fittings).
4. Fix the combined eaves bar and gutter to the glazing bars pushing the bolts through the holes
in the eaves bar and securing with a nut. You do not need to tighten the nuts too much at this stage,
but they need to be tight enough to stop the bolts slipping out of the glazing bar.
5. Fix the built in base to the glazing bars by pushing the bolt through the hole in the built in
base unit and tightening as before.
6. Correctly position the built in base on the outermost glazing bars by pushing the bolts through
the holes in the built in base but do not put the bolts on yet. (8’ and 10’ models only). The 4’ and 6’
long models have only 1 side diagonal brace per side, so it attaches to the bottom of the 1st glazing
bar (4’ long model) and on the 6’ model it attaches to the top of one glazing bar to the bottom of the
next (as per diagram), in a diagonal fashion.
7. Put nuts on the bottom bolts and lightly tighten.
8. Do the same with the other side frame assembly.
9. Make sure that the glazing bars touch both the built in base and the eaves in each case. Tight-
en all nuts.
10. If you are fitting your greenhouse onto hard standing (flags, concrete etc),
then insert bolts into the bolt channel of the built in base (generally 1 every 2’).
These will be used to anchor the greenhouse to the floor during general assem-
bly. Do not insert these bolts if you intend to install your greenhouse on to soft
ground.
BEWARE OF
SHARP EDGES!

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Before assembling any sections slide the required number of bolts into the glazing bars. Lay out the
component parts on the ground as though you were standing on the inside of a completed green-
house, i.e. with the bolt slots uppermost.
Glazing Bar Combined Eave Bar/Gutter Side Diagonal Brace

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REAR END ASSEMBLY
N.B. The roof corner bars are marked “R” on the outside, which indicate that they meet at the ridge
and are also mitred at both ends. If you have a painted greenhouse there is no letter “R” on the cor-
ner bar. You must ensure that the “middle” hole is nearer to the ridge plate than the eave plate.
(Key Point).

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From the main bag of fittings you will require the nuts and bolts, two eave plates and one ridge
plate. These are packed with the casement stay and are separated from the main bag of fittings.
Components:
1 alloy built in base
2 glazing bars
2 rear end diagonal bracing angles
1 horizontal brace
2 roof corner bars (marked “R” at the apex)
2 side corner bars (unmarked)
Corner bars are in two packs of 4 and are identical for both gables. They are marked “corner bars”.
INSTRUCTIONS
1. Lay out the frame as though you were standing on the inside i.e. with the bolt slot uppermost,
roof corners marked “R” at the apex, opposite each other, facing downwards (i.e. “R” on out-
side). The roof corner bars are mitred at both ends where as side corner bars are mitred at one
end only (Key Point). The bolt slot is on the inside and faces inwards during initial
construction. If you have a painted greenhouse there is no letter “R” on the corner bar. You
must ensure that the “middle” hole is nearer to the ridge plate than the eave plates. (Key
Point).
2. Slide the glazing beading into each glazing bar and corner bar taking care not to stretch the
material. Trim off any surplus level with the ends of the glazing bar. The corner bars have 3
grooves to receive beading. Do not use the middle one, only the two outer grooves require
glazing beading.
3. Slide two bolts into the bolt channel of each corner bar, put a nut on and finger tip tighten
approx 3” from the end of the bar. These will later be used in the general assembly for fixing
the ridge, eave and built-in-base to the ends. Now secure the ridge plate and eaves plates by
inserting bolts through the ‘plates’ and into the holes punched in the flange of the corner bar,
at the apex and eave. Do not tighten the nuts and bolts in the plates at this stage, finger tip
tighten is sufficient.
4. Attach the built in base to the side corner bars by inserting a bolt through the hole in the
flange of the corner bar and into the slot at the built in base (approx. 20mm from then end).
5. Attach the vertical glazing bars to the built in base by inserting a bolt into the bolt channel of
the glazing bars and locating it with the punched holes in the built in base. Before securing the
nuts attach the rear end diagonal brace to the same bolt as illustrated. The top of the rear end
diagonal brace now attaches to the pre-fabricated holes approx. 8” from the top of the side
corner bar.
6. Slide two bolts into the bolt channel at the top of the two vertical glazing bars and secure the
second one to the roof corner bars by inserting the bolt through the punched hole in the
flange.

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7. You can now attach the rear end horizontal angle to the top bolt of the eave plate and to the
other bolts in the glazing bars you inserted in 6, above.
8. Check that all angles between built in base and the vertical members are at 90 degrees and
that the glazing bars are right into the upper angle of the built in base at the bottom. (Key
Point).
9. Tighten all nuts.
10. If you intend to position the greenhouse onto hard standing (flags, concrete etc) then slide
two extra bolts into the built in base cill. This will be used later to attach the bolt down brack-
ets.
11. Slide a bolt into the bolt slot in the built in base section, one at each end. Attach the corner
bracket angle (approx. 400mm long with 6 holes in, 2 at the top and 4 at the bottom) so that it
is pointing downwards. If you are fitting your greenhouse onto soft ground, then do not fit the
corner bracket yet. If you are on a patio, you will need to cut the corner bracket level with
the bottom of the built in base and slide extra bolts into the bolt channel to be attached to the
corner bracket (generally 1 every 2’). If you are on soil, the corner bracket will go into the
ground at general assembly.

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DOOR END ASSEMBLY
From the main bag of fittings you will require the nuts and bolts, 2 eave plates and 1 ridge plate.
These are packed with the casement stay and are separate from the main bag of fittings.
Components
2 door end built in base
1 end glazing bars
2 side corner bars (unmarked)
1 top door track
2 door end horizontal angle
2 door end diagonal angle brace
1 main door track support
2 roof corner bars (marked “R”)
2 connecting plates
INSTRUCTIONS
1. Assemble the frame in exactly the same way as the rear end, up to and including stage 3 of the
rear end. The difference with the door end is that instead of 1 long built in base piece, the door
end has 2 smaller pieces (1 either side of the door opening) and 1 door end cill.
2. Now engage the door end cill with the 2 built in base pieces by pushing the angle of the cill
under the locator as shown in the diagram. At this stage the cill will move freely left and right
but will remain located to the built in base. The cill has 2 holes punched in the upper flanges
approximately 300mm in from either end. When the cill is in the correct position, either end
of it is approximately 150mm in from the end of the two built in base pieces.
3. Slide 2 bolts into the bottom of each glazing bar and 3 bolts (only 1 if greenhouse to be sited
on soft ground) into the free end of each built in base section. Attach the 2nd bolt in the
glazing bar to the hole in the door end cill, but do not put a nut on yet.
Remember, the door end glazing bars are 95 mm longer than the rear end ones and do not sit
on top of the base (as the rear end glazing bars do), they go down the side of the base and at-
tached to the bottom cill. (Key Point).
4. Attach the door end connecting plate (with 3 holes) to the 2
bolts inserted in the glazing bars and the last bolt inserted into
the built in base ensuring that the glazing bar is tight down
into the angle of the door end cill. Attach the door end
diagonal brace to the top bolt of the door end connecting
plate. The 2 unoccupied bolts in the built in base sections will
be used to anchor the greenhouse to the floor and attach the
corner base leg.
5. Attach the main door track support (shaped like a letter ‘Z’ to
be found with the door panels) to the two bolts that secure the
glazing bars to the corner bars. (Key Point). This ‘Z’ shaped
bar must be fitted with the two outside slots facing upwards
(as illustrated) not downwards.
6. The two door end horizontal angles attach to the top bolt in the eave plate and the vertical
glazing bars.

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7. Stand the frame up and bolt the door track to the main door track support by inserting 3 bolts
into the bolt slot of the door track. Position these through the 3 holes in the door track support
above the door opening.
8. Position the main door track central to the greenhouse. When this has been achieved tighten
all nuts.
9. Using the previously inserted bolt in the built in base, attach the corner bracket so that it is
pointing downwards. If you are fitting your greenhouse onto soft ground, then do not fit the
corner bracket yet. If you are on a patio, you will need to cut the bracket off level with the
bottom of the built in base and slide extra bolts into the bolt channel to be attached to the an-
chor bracket (generally 1 every 2’). If you are on soil, the corner bracket will go into the
ground at general assembly.
N.B. Please note carefully the correct position of the main door support. The slotted holes at either
end are facing skywards NOT downwards. (Key Point).
Please note, you only require approx. 40mm of beading in the inside ‘v’ groove of the end glazing
bars.

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DOOR FRAME ASSEMBLY
Each Door consists of:
1 unhanded door post
1 handed door post (handed post for left door is different profile to the handed right hand door post)
3 infill panels (1 with pre fabricated lock hole– right hand door only) for lock barrel
1 top and bottom door panels
3 panels of glass which must be fitted during door assembly. It is not possible to fit glass after the
door is built.
From the main bag of fittings you require;
2 door wheels
1 clip on nylon door skid (this might already be fitted to the bottom door panel)
2 lengths of black brush draught excluder with PVC carrier
Door lock, self tapping screws and spring washers
12’ glazing beading
Door handles
3 PVC Glass strips
Left hand Door (viewed from outside)
Identify the correct door posts. The handed door post for the left hand door has a bolt channel,
whereas the handed door post for the right hand door post does not. (Key point).
1. Place one unhanded post and the handed post for left hand door on a level surface roughly two
feet apart with the bolt slots facing downwards. (Unhanded door post on the left, handed door
post on the right). The top of each side post has two screw holes in it, the bottom has three.
(Key point). Slide the glazing beading into the groove of each bar i.e.
only one length of glazing beading per bar.
2. Place the top, bottom and 3 infill panels in position as shown by the po-
sition of the screw holes in the side pieces and the panels. The top panel
has the greenhouse name on it. The bottom panel has the edge for the
door skid to fit on. The lower infill panel locks on to the bottom panel.
The infill panel for the left hand door does not have a pre fabricated hole for the lock barrel.
3. Fix the left hand door post to the door panels by screwing through the door side pieces into
the holes provided in the edge of the panels with the self tapping screws. The screws will go
in more easily and with out danger of trying to go crooked if you can put a small amount of
grease on the screw before assembling the doors. Alternatively, you could insert the screws
into the screw eyes of the door panels before assembling the door; this would have the effect
of pre-self tapping the panels prior to assembly, making assembly easier.
4. GLASS MUST BE FITTED TO EACH DOOR BEFORE THE 2ND DOOR POST IS
FITTED. (KEY POINT).

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5. Before fitting the unhanded door post, offer the glass panels to the door (see glazing plan in
booklet for glass size guide on door), slide them in from the side. Carefully attach the unhand-
ed door post in the same way as before, ensuring the glass is sitting in the correct position
(sitting on the beading channels of the door posts) before tightening the screws.
6. Make sure all angles are square and tighten all screws. Now insert 2 glazing clips to the glass
on the unhanded door post.
The other side of the door is clipped using a pvc glass strip (or clip cap). Cut the strip to the
correct length and push into the cavity between the glass and the handed door post. The cap
when fitted acts as a wedge to prevent movement of the glass. Metal clips are not fitted to this
bar.
7. Fix each door wheel into position by pushing the bolt provided through the centre of the
wheel and then through the hole in the top door panel from underneath (i.e. from the inside of
the door). Put the washer over the bolt and secure with the nut provided, tightening until there
is no movement on the bolt. The nuts are lock-nuts and are harder to put on than normal nuts
in general assembly. The wheel will revolve freely because it has ball bearings in it. The
wheel has a collar protruding from the centre, this collar goes against the inside face of
the top door panel. (See picture below).
8. Slip the nylon door skids on each of the bottom panels. This may already have been done pri
or to delivery. After fitting the doors (see later in the booklet), you may need to lower the
door skid so that it engages with the bottom door cill to allow smooth movement of the door.
Lower the skid on each door and insert a self tapping screw at each end of the skid to rein
force the position.
9. Build the right hand door using the remaining handed and unhanded door post. Viewed from
the outside, the handed door post will be on the left of the door, while the unhanded door post
will be on the right. At this point you must decide the height you would like your door lock.
The hole to take the door lock is on the left hand side of the infill panel. You can decide to fit
this panel to the 2nd or 3rd panel down. Make sure you fit the glass before final fixing of
the door. See glazing plan towards the back of this booklet.
10. Thread the stainless steel backed brush extruder into the PVC carrier. This may already have
been done prior to delivery.
11. Turn the doors over and insert the black
brush draught excluder in the groove
(bolt slot) in the unhanded door posts.
Insert a nut and bolt at the bottom of
each unhanded door post and tighten so
that the brush will not slip down when
the door is in its upright position. Cut off
the surplus brush and carrier at the top of
the bar.
12. Do not fit the door to the gable at this
stage – wait until the structure is fully
assembled prior to glazing.
13. Door handles can now be fitted.

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DOOR FRAME ASSEMBLY

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FITTING THE DOOR HANDLES
The handles are fitted to the infill panel on each door (choose between 1st or 2nd panel down). Posi-
tion the handle centrally, and mark the hole position. Drill 7mm diameter holes (2 holes per door),
then fit the handles, and secure with a nut and bolt.

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ROOF VENT ASSEMBLY
The roof vent pack has 5 pieces of aluminium: and from the main box of fittings you require:
6’ of glazing beading
4 nuts and bolts
2 casement stay pins
1 casement stay
6 M4 stainless steel nuts and bolts.
PROCEDURE:
1. Identify the slam bar and attach the 2 stay pins to the outer side of the angle using the M4
stainless steel nuts and bolts.
2. Lay the 4 edge pieces of the vent on a level surface as though you were on the inside of the
vent (with the bolt slots of the vent side rails uppermost and the ‘v’ slots of the vent bottom
rail uppermost. The vent top rail is arranged in such a way that the squared off end is to the
bottom and the hooked hinge uppermost).
3. Slide the glazing beading into the beading groove in the vent side and vent top rails and trim
to suit.
4. Insert a bolt into each end of the vent side rail bolt slots, put these bolts through the holes in
the vent top and vent bottom rails, add nuts and lightly tighten. Check that all joints are secure
and that the vent is square, and then tighten up the nuts.
5. Fit the casement stay using the M4 stainless steel nuts and bolts, putting the bolts through the
holes in the saddle of the stay through the 2 elongated holes in the vent bottom rail. Hold the
nuts in place and tighten the bolts with a screwdriver.
Do the same with the other vents.

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ASSEMBLY OF GREENHOUSE UNIT