GRAUPNER MICRO MAGIC User manual

Manual
racing Micro Magic HoTT

This model is one of the GRAUPNER/SJ sailboat series. These models are almost finished
constructed and painted. To make the model ready to sail, just install the RC components
and the battery and the model can be used.
Technical data
Length 535 mm
Beam, approx 180 mm
Overall height approx. 980 mm
Weight RC system incl., drive battery
excl. 870 g
Package content
Graupner Micro Magic HoTT
Hull Included
Sailset Included
Electronics (2x Servo)) Included
GR-12 receiver HoTT Included
Charger, Transmitter, Batteries Not included

Operating instructions
Assemble the boat stand and secure the connections with wood or cyano glue .
If desired, you can plump up the surface for the boat with a soft material.
For example, No. 701.2
Assembling the boat stand
Installation of rudder
Grease the rudder shaft slightly and mount the helm along with the small compression spring
and the tiller. Drag The linkage when the RC system is installed and the rudder servo is ori-
ented in the desired neutral position.

Installation of keel
Plug the keel in the hull and secure the keel from the top with the enclosed washer and nut. It
is suggested to use some thread lock fluid. Through the weight the boat is now ready for
further assembly.
If you plan to participate in ranking regattas, check using a simple cardboard template, if the
keel in the fully screwed into position protrudes more than 135mm down from the hull. While
this increases the stability of your boat in recreational use, but is not allowed by the current
class rules in competitions. So, if the result is not as shown in the picture and the hull touches
the template, remove the keel again and cut or grind its top sloping edge gradually away
about 1 to 2 millimeters material until the keel is deep enough into the hull and 135 mm are
no longer exceeded. Then also the thread must be a few millimeters shorter, if necessary, so
that it does not hit in the installed state.

Assembly of the rig
Note: The rig of your Micro Magic RTR is designed so that it can be replaced by another /
smaller one if necessary for use in competition, without requiring nodes must be opened.
Slide the boom bearing on the mast so that the aluminum press-down is on top. Take the lon-
ger cord, with a prepared sliding clamp and run the free end of the bottom through the plastic
tubes on boom fitting. Loosen both screws on the mast plate, insert the mast with the fitting
completely into the hull, so that the two lugs engage the boom bearings in the recesses of the
mast and the mast plate rests on the hull bottom. Tilt the mast until it stops backwards and
screw the mast plate firmly back.
Attach the masthead already ailing backstay at the rear by putting and move the loop over
the round fitting the clamping slide so that the stay is slightly stretched, without bending the
mast. Attach both shrouds (mast bracing to the side) and keep here also very little tension.
Important: The opening of the staples must be facing aft. Twist the eyelets if necessary.
Otherwise, the jib sheet could be caught in sailing, which would make the boat nearly unma-
nageable and it might be a threat to the sail servo.

Assembly of the main sail
Even the mainsail can be optimized a bit for the regatta use. Please skip to the next para-
graph if you do not need it.
Insert the leading edge of the mainsail (luff) in parallel with a ruler or other straight line flat on
a surface. If the luff is straight, you can subsequently set an approximately 4 millimeters deep
curve with the round part facing to the mast. Attach to the sail as with masking tape smoothly
but without tension on a flat surface. Suitable is, for example, glas or an old mirror. Mark a
point about 24 cm from the top (sail top) and about 27 cm from the bottom (tack) to the top of
the luff. Cut with a very sharp knife (a fresh snap-off blade is normally sufficient) from the top
point upwards and 2 mm from the bottom point down 1.5mm diagonally backwards. Attach
the luff again on the pad and mark at about half of the triangle cuts, ie 12 cm from the top and
14 cm from the bottom two more points. Now repeat the process and cut off the new points
again about 2 mm and 1.5 mm from the bottom. Now you have an approximate curve by 4
mm depth, the deepest point is slightly above the center and corresponds approximately to
the course of a bent mast. This luff curve will later push something extra tread depth to the
mainsail. Tension the backstay a little more, so that the mast deflects approximately 3mm.
Please check the holes that have been done along the luff to accommodate the mast rings.
They should be about 2 mm away from the front edge of the leech. If the distance is too lar-
ge, you can use a hot needle to make new holes near the old ones. If you have re-cut your
luff as described above, place the holes in each place where they meet the cut edges. You
should also have holes for attachment to the mainsail head (above) and the bottom (front bot-
tom), each at about 2 to 3 mm from the luff and 3mm spacing from upper or lower edge of the
sail.

Now you can install the mainsail. First knot the head with a minimum distance to the prepared
string in the top of the mast. The upper edge of the sail should not be more than 5 mm below
the boom. Next, fix the rear end of the sail (clew) at the end of the boom (yardarm) between
the two silicon rings. To do this you may need to tilt by rotating the pressing-down the mast
slightly upwards. Loop the cord attached to the sail once or twice around the mast and put
the knots so that the lower edge of the sail (leech) is still 2 to 3 millimeters above the silicone
rings.
Now turn the press-down again so that the rear edge of the mainsail (leech) has just a very
slight tension. At the press-down should have on each side about 4 mm free thread visible. If
necessary, loosen the retaining screw on the clamping bracket and move the stop point ac-
cording to the boom. You should fix the clamping angle into its final position with a drop of
cyano or a tape winding against slipping to the boom yardarm.

Now you can attach the mast that you have assembled before to boom bearing threaded luff
straightener to the sail. Insert the eyelet coming out of the clamping slide to the front hook on
the deck and move it so that it comes to clamping slide to lie on deck just behind the rear
hook. Knotting the upwardly free end coming out from the tube with the tack and tighten the
luff slightly by moving the clamping slide on the bow to the stern. The mainsail should now
end about 10 mm above the boom fitting. If the distance is smaller, you should try to connect
the sail slightly shorter to the top. Otherwise, the boom will collide after a wile with the cabin
roof.
Take the mast rings, run them through the holes in the luff and around the pole and hook the
hook in the eyes. Tip: If you have lost a mast ring, you can tie the luff with a thin cord to the
mast. Thus, the rings are not too tight and the sail still can rotate well, push each before tigh-
tening the knot a 2.5mm strong drill or pin as a spacer in the loop.
Now keep tension out of the leech by opening the press-down a little more than half a turn
and then counter.
Move the silicone rings on clew so that about 20 mm belly come into sailing. Now, if you flip
the boat nearly horizontally and bring boom yardarm by hand in the middle of the boat, then
the leech of the sail at the top of about 3.5 cm apart (twist) must not have the backstay. Me-
morize this position as the default setting for the twist of the mainsail.
Now take back the tension of the luff.
Tip: You should never have more tensi-
on than necessary on the sails.

Assembly of the Foresail (Fock)
Pull the counterweight from the jib boom. Insert the pin through the ring at the lower end of
the forestay (the tack) and insert the pin again. If the pin is quite loose, secure it with a drop
of glue.
Run the battered already on tack downhaul as shown from front to back through the eyelet of
the plastic part on the jib boom and tie it close with the clip at the luff.
Attach the clew as did in the mainsail between the silicone hose pieces at the boom yardarm.
Knot a piece of cord with deferred clam-
ping slide to the ring which is struck about
10 cm below the masthead. The two to-
gether lying holes of the clip pusher
should be placed down (as in the arrange-
ment backstay). Run the lower end of the
cord through the ring on foresail head and
back and through the bottom hole in the
clamping slide. Clamp the cord firmly as
provisionally with a clothespin.
Move the ailing ring to the jib boom so
that it is above the front hooks on deck
when the boom yardarm is still about 10
mm from the mast. Hang the ring at the
prepared bowstringer in the rear hooks on
deck. Position the clamping slide approxi-
mately in the middle of the hooks. Run the
free end of the string through the last
existing ring, hang this ring a in the front
hook and knot the cord up to the ring on
the jib boom. The jib boom should have
no more than 10 mm from the hook, so do
not be attached too high on deck.

At the rear end of the jib boom (boom yardarm) the forestay has already struck. It enables the
twist of the headsail to be set later. Run the free end of the forestay upward through the ring
on the mast, hang the shroud to the forestay and tie it tight. Pull the terminal tab on the fo-
restay slightly upward so that the leech of the headsail describes a slight curve.
Now you can attach the clip pusher of the forestay. The mast is still tense from the backstay
or slightly bent aft. Place the clamping slide between the two rings a little below the middle
and tie it tight, without giving any additional length in the cord.
Move the silicone pieces at the clew so that in the sail there are approximately 17mm belly.
Secure all knots with a drop of cyano or plastic adhesives. Cut off the excess cord pieces.
With a very small lighter flame close to the cord ends, you can prevent them from fraying. Do
not burn the (combustible) cord, neither put the flame near the sails!