harvst Yard User manual
Your “Yard” mini greenhouse
Setup and assembly guide.
Document version 2
Yard model 2.x
Your mini greenhouse will look like this when it’s built (lid and doors shown
separately for clarity) :
Contents
Check that your package contains the following parts. If anything is missing, get back
to us as soon as possible: [email protected]
Frame parts
1 x Left end panel
1 x Right end panel
1 x Front timber base board with double
plastic channel
1 x Rear timber base board with single
plastic channel
1 x Lid assembly
1 x Front crossbar with double plastic
channel, for above doors
2 x Rear panel (black)
2 x Rear panel joining strip (H-section)
3 x 20mm wide sections of black panel
2 x Front shelf assembly with pipe
2 x Rear shelf (30mm angle)
1 x Automatic lid opener
2 x Front door
1 x Lid prop
1 x Short hose assembly with snap-on
garden hose connector.
1 x 1 metre black hose with elbow at one
end
Tools and small parts
Bolt and fixings kit
4mm allen key
8mm spanner
2 securing brackets
Mini aluminium handle
Systems
1 x Control unit
2 x Black temp/moisture sensor
1 x Y-splitter for sensors
Solar panel or mains power supply
Water valves with connecting cable
Pump and tank kit:
Water pump with hose attached
Water tank
Water level sensor
Rainwater collection pipe
(10mm inside diameter)
Connect the control unit to WiFi
We recommend you do this indoors, before you install the control box into your
greenhouse, polytunnel or cold frame. When it’s working indoors, you can move it to
the site where you’re going to put your greenhouse to test the connection there before
you begin construction of the frame.
1. Ensure your WiFi network name and password are handy.
2. Turn on your Harvst control unit. It will start beeping fast and the red LED will
be on.
3. If, after 10 seconds, no previous WiFi connection has been found, the unit will
start beeping slowly; once a second. It has just started it’s own WiFi signal.
4. On your phone, go to WiFi settings, and connect to the "harvst-wifi" access
point. You should be automatically redirected to http://192.168.4.1 *
5. Click the blue "Configure WiFi" button.
6. You should see your WiFi network listed. Choose your WiFi network by clicking
its name. If you don't see yours, click "Refresh".
7. Enter your password and click save.
8. The unit will pause for a while and then if it connects OK, you'll hear a double
beep. You’ll also get a welcome text message to your phone.
If you run out of time, haven’t received the welcome text message or email, or have any
other trouble connecting, turn the unit off and then back on again to restart the WiFi
connection process. WiFi details will be stored for the next time you turn the unit on.
* If you’re NOT redirected automatically to the setup screen once you have connected
to harst-wifi, then open a browser (Chrome, Safari etc) and type in “192.168.4.1” to the
address bar; where you would normally enter a website address. This will take you to
the blue “Configure Wifi” button.
Scan this QR code with your phone to
view a video which shows you how to
connect your control unit to WiFi:
Or visit www.harvst.co.uk/setup
1. Prepare the location
Your greenhouse will need level ground to sit on. You can put it directly on grass, on a
raised bed, or a hard standing like concrete or brick. If your foundation is not flat and
level, your lid and doors won't operate smoothly, so it's worth putting the effort in
now.
The rainwater collection system also requires a flat and level base. A slope of 5% (1 in
20) is just about OK.
Sunshine
Put your greenhouse somewhere that gets as much sun as possible; grow lights will
help germinate seeds and provide a bit of top-up light, but they are not a substitute for
the sun. The solar panel (if you’re running off grid) can be placed up to 3m away from
the main unit.
Power
Mains power is not needed unless you add heaters and/or grow lights. If you do add
mains power, you will need to work with a registered electrician to install an outside
power socket, or position your greenhouse within 5m of an indoor power socket. The
mains powered Harvst control units come with 5m of cable.
Water
If you have a garden hose, you can run a connection to your greenhouse. It can be as
far as you like from the tap.
If you don’t have a hose, you’ll need a pump, and a water tank of some sort. You can
use the Harvst tank, or a water butt if there’s one within 2m of your greenhouse. If you
live in an area that doesn’t get much rain, you might want to consider running a gutter
offshoot from another roof onto your greenhouse to collect more rainwater.
Base
Harvst greenhouses can be placed directly on the ground, on an existing raised bed, or
on one built especially for it. Consider how much soil depth you want to have for your
plants. At least 25cm (10”) is wise for many vegetables that are suitable for growing in a
Harvst mini greenhouse.
A 40cm raised bed under the largest Harvst greenhouse (1.2m * 2m / 4’ * 7’) will take
about 500kg of soil / compost. That’s about 10 wheelbarrows full - this will vary based
on the type of soil you get and how moist it is.
Containers are great for growing in; the greenhouse is designed to take standard
600mm euro stacking crates.
2. Attach baseboards to end panels
Parts
2 x pre-assembled end panel
2 x timber base board
8 x 50mm furniture bolt
The base board with the double black
plastic track is on the front of the
greenhouse. The ribs on the timber
face out.
The base board with the single black
plastic track is on the back.
Attach the timber base boards to the
end panels, using the furniture bolts.
Tighten well.
3. Fit the rear shelves
Parts
2 x 30mm aluminium shelf
4 x 20mm M5 bolt and nut
The rear shelves (without the irrigation
pipe) are fitted to the bottom of the
plastic blocks using a single bolt at the
end of each shelf.
The bolt goes down through the plastic
block, through the shelf and is secured
with a nut underneath the shelf.
4. Fit the front shelves
Parts
2 x Front shelf
4 x 20mm M5 bolt and nut
The front shelves are the angle
aluminium with a black pipe attached
via pipe clips.
The bottom shelf is the one with the
open ended pipe on the right.
The top shelf is the one with the end
stop (closed pipe) on the right.
The twin water valves will fit on the
bottom right hand side in the next
step.
Fit to the brackets in the same way as
you fitted the rear shelves, and do the
nuts up tightly.
5. Fit water valves
Parts
1 x twin water valves
See photos at www.harvst.co.uk/setup
Fit the water valves to the right end of
the pipe on the bottom front shelf. The
snap-on hose connector faces
backwards towards the rear of the
greenhouse, so that the bottom outlet
plugs into the front shelf pipe. Secure
the valve to the pipe with a jubilee clip.
In the drawing you can also see a green
pipe going upwards, you will fit this
later (it’s black in real life).
6. Fit connecting hose
Fit the short (approx 50cm) section of
black hose between the elbow joints on
the top and bottom pipes, on the left.
The hose runs around the front of the
bottom shelf (the side closest to the
doors).
TIP
: You will need to warm the ends of
the hose in hot water for a few seconds
to soften it before fitting.
Parts
1 x connecting hose
7. Fit the rear panels
2 x Black rear panel
3 x 20mm wide black
connecting strip
2 x 1440mm long H-section
2 x 20mm M4 bolt, penny
washer and nut
Put the penny washer on the outside.
Fit the panels so that the holes for the
control system are at top right.
From behind, drop the two large
panels into the slot on the timber base,
and outwards into the slots in the end
panel uprights.
Slide the H-section down on the inner
sides of the end panels. It doesn't
matter whether the long leg is inside or
outside.
Next, fit the three thin black strips. The
long one goes in first. Slide them down
the gap to tighten it all up. Leave gaps
between the strips, at the hole in the
centre of each shelf, for the bolts which
hold the panels to the frame.
We've found the best way is to slide up
one of the large panels so you can get a
hand inside to fit the nut on the bolt.
8. Fit front cross bar and doors
First, drop the crossbar into the brackets
on the front of the end panels.
The bracket for the lid opener faces
backwards, inside the unit.
Then put the doors in; you'll need to lift
the cross bar slightly.
The left hand door goes on the
rearmost track. The right hand door
(with both handles fitted the same way)
goes in the front track:
Parts
1 x Crossbar : 25mm box
section with twin black
plastic track
2 x M5 40mm bolt and nuts
2 x Door panel
1 x Door handle
2 x M5 16mm bolt and nuts
On the left hand door, you’ll see two
holes for mounting the small handle.
Bolt the handle to the door using two
M5 * 16mm bolts, with a washer and
nut on the inside of the door.
The right hand door doesn’t have a
small handle; you can use the long
handle attached to the side of the
door.
The right hand door has a sticker on
the top right.
Bolt the crossbar in place using the
40mm bolts and nuts.
9. Screw in the mister nozzles
Parts
5 x Yellow mister nozzle
1 x Lid assembly
Screw the yellow mister nozzles into
the pre-punched holes in the black
pipe which runs underneath the ridge
(attached to the lid assembly)
Set the arrow on the nozzle facing
forwards (towards you) for the nozzle
to be on. Twist it sideways to turn that
nozzle off.
10. Fit the lid
Parts
1 x Lid Assembly
2 x 30mm stainless screws
Place the lid onto the top of the unit
with the pipes facing down at the rear
of the greenhouse.
Slide the top of the rear panels
between the irrigation pipe and the
ridge piece.
Align the holes in the end of the ridge
piece with the holes in the top of the
end panel uprights.
Use the screws to secure the ridge.
Tighten them well.
11. Fit the lid prop
Parts
1 x aluminium lid prop
1 x M5 x 40mm bolt
1 x Nylok nut
The small section of 13mm (½”) angle
bolts to the inside of the front bar, on
the right hand side. Fix it loosely so it
can move around as it’s raised.
12. Connect the mister hose
Parts
1 x 1m water hose with elbow
at one end
TIP
: You will need to warm the ends of
the hose in hot water for a few seconds
to soften it before fitting.
After warming the ends, push the hose
onto the ridge irrigation pipe, and the
end with the elbow onto the top port
of the twin water valve which is fitted
to the lower front shelf.
Shown as the green hose here:
Secure with a jubilee clip.
13. Assemble the lid opener
Parts
1 x Automatic lid opener
This opener is shown with a bracket on
the end of the lifter arm (at top). We
have removed this and fitted it to the
lid of the greenhouse.
This will open the lid of your Harvster
when it gets hot, thanks to wax melting
inside the black cylinder.
Follow the assembly instructions
supplied with the opener to put the
black cylinder into the mechanism.
The temperature at which it opens
depends on how far in the black
cylinder has been screwed. Fully in, the
lid will start to open at around 20C.
Fully out, it’s nearer 30C.
WARNING : this part is springy and
may catch your fingers if you let go
of it unexpectedly while it’s open.
14. Fit the lid opener to the lid
See photos at www.harvst.co.uk/setup
Parts
1 x Automatic lid opener
fitted with 20mm bolt and
nylok nut.
Prop the lid open using the lid prop.
The top of the lid opener arm is held to
the lid using an M5 x 20mm bolt with a
nylok nut.
Remove the bolt from the lid opener
assembly and put it through the metal
bracket attached to the lid. Don’t
tighten the bolt so much that the
mechanism jams; leave it a little loose.
15. Attach the lid opener to the
frame
Parts
1 x Automatic lid opener
Put the lid prop away and clip the
mechanism into the bracket on the
rear of the front cross piece, above the
doors.
The two lugs on the opener fit into the
two corresponding holes in the bracket
on the back of the front cross piece.
16. Fit the rainwater collection hose
Parts
130cm clear 10mm ID hose
1 black filter washer
The long section of clear hose fits to
the bottom of the drain in the front
upper corner of the right hand panel,
and runs out through one of the holes
in the bottom part.
The black filter washer (with a mesh)
fits into the drain to help prevent
debris from getting into your tank.
17. Fix the greenhouse down
Now that you’ve completed the frame,
you should fix it firmly to something
solid, like a fence or wall.
Parts
2 angled securing brackets
Plus fixings [not supplied]
If you don’t have a firm structure to fix
it to, then it’s essential to have some
strong ground stakes attached to the
timber base.
Mount the control system
Mains power supply for heated greenhouses
If your mini-greenhouse is heated, with a mains power supply, mount the power supply
underneath the control box, to the rear panel. Run the cables behind the shelves
(between the shelf and the rear panel), down the ground where the mains cable goes
out via the notch in the timber base board.
We recommend using some short self-tapping screws to mount the power supply to
the backboard. Ensure the screw tips are safely protected and cannot scratch anyone
behind the greenhouse.
Solar panel for off grid greenhouses
If your greenhouse is solar powered, run the solar panel cable through the hole in the
rear panel and plug it into the control box. Mount the solar panel to something solid
close to your greenhouse.
If you don’t have anywhere suitable, you can place the solar panel on the lid of the unit;
secure it down with strong double sided tape.
Once you’re happy that the control unit
connects to WiFi indoors near your WiFi
router, you can install it into your Harvst
mini-greenhouse.
At the top right of the rear panels you’ll
see four holes. Use the M5 x 20mm bolts
and nuts to fix the control unit to the
rear panels.
This will be easiest if you prop the lid
open, so you can reach the inside and
outside at the same time.
Self watering
Connecting the pump and tank (optional)
If you don’t have a garden hose that you can leave connected permanently to your mini
greenhouse, you can use a tank and water pump. The low voltage submersible pump is
powered by the control unit, and the tank can be filled using the greenhouse gutters so
that you don’t have to top it up as often.
1. Position the tank on the right hand side of your mini-greenhouse. We recommend
that you place it outside so that you get more growing space. If you don’t have space in
your yard or garden, you can place it inside the frame.
2. Ensure the water pipe is firmly attached to the pump, then drop the pump into the
tank.
3. Attach the short hose with a snap-on connector to the water valves. If your tank is
outside, point the elbow on the end of this short pipe out through one of the holes in
the right hand end panel.
4. Put the pump wire and the tank level sensor wire through the hole in the right hand
panel now (the plugs won’t fit through once the pipe has been fitted).
Now fit the pump hose to the elbow on the short hose assembly. It’s a tight push fit,
and will be easier if you warm the pipe in hot water for a few seconds first.
5. Connect the pump plug into the control box; it’s the two-pin socket next to the large
power supply socket.
6. Connect the tank level sensor plug into the control box. It’s the smaller two-pin plug
on the bottom. Drop the other end (it looks like an audio/headphone plug) into the
water tank so that it rests about ⅓ of the way up. Fix the sensor cable to the pump hose
with a cable tie to keep it at a suitable height.
When the water level drops below the sensor, you’ll get an email and text message to
suggest that you fill up your tank.
Self watering
Testing your irrigation
Put some water in the tank (or connect your garden hose), and turn on the control unit
(which should already be paired with your WiFi network). If it’s a solar powered one,
wake it up by pressing the yellow button on the left. It will stay awake for 5 minutes.
From your Harvst app dashboard, click the “access device directly” button, and you’ll
be taken to a grey screen which is the control box itself. Here you can click “water now”
to run the pump and test your system.
The watering will run for a number of seconds, which you set on the dashboard.
Remember that changes to settings on the dashboard can take up to 30 minutes to be
updated on your control unit - to speed this up when you are testing, click the green
“get latest settings” button on the grey device screen.
Rainwater collection
Harvst mini greenhouses are fitted with gutters and drains for collecting rainwater.
Only in winter (or very wet areas) will this provide enough water to enable the
greenhouse to be self-sufficient.
If you are running the watering regularly when there is little rain, you will need to top
up the tank manually from time to time. If you have a roof nearby, you can divert some
of the flow onto the lid of the greenhouse, from where it will flow into your tank.
You’ll get a notification by text message and email when the water level in the tank
drops below the sensor position.
Environmental sensors
Soil moisture and temperature sensors
Your Harvst mini-greenhouse comes with two black dual-purpose sensors, which will
measure soil moisture as well as soil temperature. These are best placed in an area
where the temperature and moisture doesn’t change too fast; such as a large container
of soil, or the ground. It’s best placed horizontally, just under the surface.
The first soil sensor is what drives the irrigation (and optional heating) for zone 1. The
second sensor (with the red band around it), is used to monitor zone 2.
We recommend that the bottom shelf and base of your mini-greenhouse is zone 1
(watered by the two sprayer bars) and the top shelf is zone 2 (watered by the mister
bar).
The soil sensors plug into the 4-pin connector on the control unit, via a Y-splitter.
To measure the soil moisture, place the sensor so that the bottom half is completely
under the soil. In shallow soil (such as a seed tray), you’ll need to place the sensor on
its side under the soil.
The temperature is measured by a device halfway up the body of the sensor; again, if
you have shallow soil and want to measure the temperature of the soil itself, this will
need to be below the surface.
Air temperature sensor
A silver temperature-only sensor comes pre-wired into your control box. You can use
this to monitor any temperature; typically it’s used for outside air temperature, and
will show as “air temp” on the app.
WARNING
Do not plug or unplug the dual purpose sensors while the control unit is turned on.
Soil moisture sensing
The Harvst smart garden system is fitted with sensors that detect the capacitance of
the soil, in other words how much the presence of the soil affects a small electric field
set up around the sensor. The water content of the soil will affect the capacitance;
wetter soil will be different from dry soil.
However, every type of soil is different. How tightly the soil is packed around the sensor
makes a difference, as do other things in the soil (such as fertilisers). For this reason,
there is no clear, consistent way to measure soil moisture in every location for every
user, so you’ll need to learn how your sensors are responding to your particular
situation.
Test your local soil
Get two samples of your local soil, or the compost that you’ll be planting in. Make one
of them wet, and dry the other one out to the point where you think “this really needs
water now”. These will be your two extremes.
Put one sensor in one pot, and the other sensor in the other pot. Wait a few hours for
data to come into your app, and you’ll see the two different moisture levels as a
reading out of ten.
As a starter, we recommend you set your “water when dry” regime to the level in the
dry pot (or one level up), so when the soil gets to that dryness, the watering comes on.
Set your “don’t water when wet” regime to the level in the wet pot (or one level
below).
Water moisture sensing is not a precise science, and takes time to learn properly. Be
patient and make controlled changes, and over a few days you will get a feel for how
your system works.
Don’t keep moving the sensors
Once you have placed your sensors in the soil, wait a few days to see a moisture trend
line
on the chart on your app dashboard (this works far better on a computer screen
than a small phone). If you remove and replace the sensor, you’ll probably see spikes
and steps which confuse matters.
Heating
If you have a heated greenhouse, it will be supplied with a mains powered control unit
(it has three sockets on the left hand side). The top two connectors are for heaters;
zone 1 at the top and zone 2 below it. Into these connectors you can plug Harvst heater
pads. The bottom connector is for Harvst waterproof LED grow lights, which are
available as optional extras.
You can use up to three heater pads for each connector.
Since the zone temperature sensors are in the same dual-purpose sensor as the
moisture detector, we recommend the following setup:
Zone 2 (top of greenhouse, with misters)
Have at least one seed tray or gravel tray filled with soil; you can germinate seeds in it.
You don’t need sensors in every seed tray, so you’ll use this one to control the
environment on the top shelf. This will be your “control” tray. Put a heater pad into the
bottom of an empty seed tray, and then place your control tray into that. Slide the dual
purpose sensor down the side of the soil in the top tray, so it measures the moisture
and temperature of the control tray. When the control tray gets dry (or too hot), we can
assume that other seed trays on the same level are about the same.
Zone 1 (bottom of greenhouse, with sprayers)
Larger tubs in the bottom will heat up much more slowly than seed trays, so they need
to have different heating control. Just as you have a control tray in the top, you can
have a control tub in the bottom, which contains the dual-purpose sensor. If you have a
Yard model and are planting directly into the ground then we suggest your zone 2
control tub is on the middle shelf. Put the heater pad into the bottom of your growing
container before filling it with soil. If you’re confident you are going to keep this
container for this use, then peel off the back of the heater pad and stick it securely to
the container. You won’t be able to get it off again easily. Place the sensor flat, just
under the surface of the soil. We’ve found this is a good position to get good moisture
and temperature readings.
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