Jacuzzi Z Builder Series Operating instructions

The Mechanics and Repair of
Jacuzzi

Whirlpool Bath
Hot Tub Spas
For the Following ELECTRONIC Spas Made 1995-2001
Dealer Premium Model Line (sold through dealers):

Z Builder Series Line (sold through big box stores):

(does not include Z101)
Published by Clear Creek Spas
Copyrighted. All Rights Reserved. B.Bouman and Company, LLC

Disclaimer
Every effort has been made to make this manual understandable and applicable.
If you have doubts or little experience with electrical appliances, it’s best to leave
electrical work to licensed electricians. Care and proper electrical procedures
must be adhered to whenever working with electricity and especially is true with
spas since you are dealing with electrical current that can harm or kill your or
those near or in the spa.
As a Rule of Thumb: ALWAYS TURN THE SPA’S MAIN POWER OFF
UNLESS REQUIRED TO PERFORM A TEST. WHEN YOU DO HAVE POWER
ON BE CAREFUL AND USE PROPER ELECTRICAL PROTECTION AND
PROCEDURES.
Although this booklet should be able to guide you through most repairs and even
diagnosing the problem, www.clearcreekspas.com offers an “Ask the Expert” free
of charge and you can write me and be more specific for your spa and your
particular problem.
Every effort has been made to be accurate and complete but note we cannot
guarantee specific accuracy.
Throughout this manual reference to part numbers are Jacuzzi Premium Spa
numbers. If the part number prefix is “CC” the part is our own number and
available on our website.

Table of Contents
Introduction
Overview
Section One: Equipment and Parts
Chapter One: Pumps and Motors
Chapter Two: Heaters
Chapter Three: Control System
Chapter Four: Air Blowers
Chapter Five: Pressure Switch: Flow Switch
Chapter Six: Sensors
Chapter Seven: Topside Control
Chapter Eight: Ozonators
Chapter Nine: Mood Lights
Chapter Ten: Plumbing
Chapter Eleven: Spa Jets
Chapter Twelve: Stereo
Section Two: Troubleshooting
I. Trips GFCI
II. Doesn’t Heat
III. Motor Hums
IV. Pump Leaks
V. Diagnose Your Problem by CLICKS
VI. Error Codes
Section Three: Review of Specific Models

Introduction
I started servicing Jacuzzi Whirlpool Bath spas in 1995. I first started by working
for a friend who was an Authorized Service Center for Jacuzzi Whirlpool Bath.
Shortly after that I purchased the spa repair business from him and became the
owner.
From that date to 2001 we were the authorized Service Center for Jacuzzi
Whirlpool Products in the Denver and Eastern Colorado area. During that time we
were rated in the top 10 service companies in the United States for customer
service. We were the only Service Company to receive that award every time it
was offered during those years. When Jacuzzi, Inc reorganized their company in
2001, they moved their spa production to their Sundance plant. We continue to
and are still servicing Jacuzzi Hot Tubs as a service center.
It just happened that when I started working and servicing spas for Jacuzzi
Whirlpool Bath was also the time the industry was switching to electronic
controlled spas. Therefore I experienced the changes that have occurred during
this time and continue to work in the field, I have experienced a wide spectrum of
problems and their solution. I would like to say I have seen it all but that always
proves untrue.
I have tried to make this manual simple but comprehensive; quite a challenge. To
do so I try first to explain what and how the part works. Then how to replace or
repair the part. I have also come up with the CLICK method of identifying
problems.
In the Troubleshooting Section I have found 99% of the problems with a spa are
routine if you follow a systemic approach. Sometimes I make this approach too
obvious but for the sake of the weekend warrior, I made it so.
If you have questions not specifically addressed in this manual, I have an email
address specifically created for you. It’s the first email I check, usually every
business day. Just email me at: [e-mail]. I will be
willing to help all I can.

Overview
GENERAL
Basically, spa operation is simple. The pump draws the water from the spa,
through the pump and pushes it through the heater and back into the spa. Now
add more jets, more pumps, an air blower, and maybe a stereo. That’s today’s
popular spa.
America’s lust for more jets has driven the need for more pumps to drive the jets.
To help keep the spa clean with less chemicals, manufacturer’s have added a 24
hour circulation pump and Ozonator. For some older premium models, you also
have added an air bubbling up from the bottom of the spa.
Many end users have opted for the simpler “Z” or builder series of spas Jacuzzi
Whirlpool produced for about six years. These spas were produced with volume
sales through big box stores in mind. Doing so made spas available to many who
could not afford to buy the dealer line of spas.
This manual focuses on both the Dealer line of Jacuzzi Whirlpool spas and the
“Z” series.
SPA SHELL
Jacuzzi’s spa finish skin is acrylic. A sheet of acrylic is heated and dropped into a
mold and vacuumed to form the shell. Then it’s flipped over and sprayed with a
fiberglass solution that gives it strength. Holes are drilled into the spa and jets
installed. Then the plumbing is finished and insulation is now sprayed. Finally the
equipment is installed. The construction of the spa is mostly performed with the
spa upside down. Finally the spa is flipped upright and final tests including water
testing is done.
The spa frame is made a wide variety of ways over the years but basically on
either a wood bracing, solid plywood base, or fiberglass base. Often the spa shell
has part of the frame molded into the actual spa shell or glued to it to create
strength.

Paneling
The paneling of spas has changed over the years. Initially redwood or cedar was
the common siding. Jacuzzi built spas with slats glued to a plastic sheet and
screwed to the spa frame. An attempt to economize cost panels were built of
various woods and stained but this has been discontinued. Most common now
are synthetic plastic panels or slats. These are becoming popular even though
they can be as costly as redwood or cedar. But they are able to withstand the
elements with little care.

Chapter ONE Pump & Motors
Overview:
There can be confusion; What’s a pump? What’s a motor? Are they the same?
The “pump” is considered by many to be the complete pump/motor and by others
only the end where the water passes through. The “wetend” is the more common
word for the end that moves the water.
Jacuzzi’s pump or wetend is patented by Jacuzzi and only sold by them. The
motor is made by others.
Jacuzzi Whirlpool first used their WHITE pump in common production. It’s a one
piece pump that bolts to the motor body by 4 bolts on the pumps gray mounting
plate. If the pump fails, you must replace the complete white pump. They are
NOT interchangeable with the next generation pump.
The “J” PUMP is BLACK and made of the main body or bracket that mounts on
the motor by the 4 bolts that hold the motor together.
Then the impellor which attaches to the motor shaft. When the impellor rotates its
what moves the water. Between the impellor and the bracket is the seal. The seal
is a two part component with ½ in the bracket and ½ on the impellor shaft. When
these two mate they compress and seal the pump from leaking. Then an
“eyeseal” is on the front of the impellor. A large oring seals the front of the pump
(volute) when the bolts tighten them together.
Simply explained, when the impellor turns it compresses the water and the
compressed water escapes out of the top of the pump.
Commonly, the “motor” is ONLY the motor, Jacuzzi used either AO Smith or
Emerson motors although earlier they used other brands. Most motors are either
110vac or 220vac although some can be either. If either, you can “field wire” the
motor to match the application you are installing. But typically, it’s a set voltage.
The key for motors is matching the horsepower (hp) of the motor to the pump.

You can have a motor oversized for a pump hp and be OK. It’s like having an
oversized motor for your car. But you can not have a pump too large for the
motor. If you do, the motor will have a early failure. It’s like driving a large car with
an undersized motor. Best bet is to match.
Jacuzzi used 3 motors on their 1995-2001 spa production. For 110vac spas, 2
speed single motor. On their 2 pump systems they commonly used two 220v
single speed pumps. In 1999 they introduced the Pinnacle Model which has a
small circulation pump and two non-Jacuzzi pumps. They did this configuration
on other models in 2000/1.
In the early 90’s Jacuzzi designed their own proprietary pump. They called it the
“J-pump” (explained previously) and soon followed with the “K-Pump”. The “J-
Pump” has a low snout for the incoming suction fitting and a top center discharge.
It’s used in the low and 2 speed pumps. The “K-Pump” is a mid-center suction
connection with a top center discharge. It’s only used in the 3hp pump.
The “J” and “K” pump are a volume pump at low pressure. What this means is
that they are designed to move a large volume of water but not at high pressure.
It’s easy to compare the Jacuzzi pump as a wide flowing river verses a narrow
fast moving river. By design you can sit again a number of jets for a length of time
and not feel irritation. On pumps built by others the pressure out of the jets are
often strong enough to become uncomfortable. In later products Jacuzzi
Whirlpool added high pressured pumps.
Just a note about ratings: It seems Jacuzzi engineers have a hard time rating
their pumps, especially the low and 2 speed. It’s easy to understand because
they initially rated the low speed pump as a ¾ hp pump and the 2 speed 1 ½ hp.
But it must have become apparent that they underated the pumps because they
upgraded the rating to 1hp and 2hp. Since then, the rating has change to just the
low pump and their 2 speed pump. The 3hp pump has remained at their rating.
Lastly, in the industry the motor is motor only, pump is the wetend, and when they
are together, they are called pump complete.
PUMP/MOTOR
The motor takes electrical current and turns the shaft clockwise. Although

individual parts may be available, usually bad motors are replaced not repair.
REPLACING Pump/Motor:
SINGLE PUMP SPAS:
110vac, 2 Speed Pump;(part #2500-255 standard duty pump/motor complete;
#CC-F570HD heavy duty pump/motor complete; Pump Only: #CC-2jp)
If your spa has only one pump, You have a 110v, 2 speed pump that serves as
both low and high speeds.
Removal:
Turn main power off. Drain the spa. Most Jacuzzi models do not have
valves to close to avoid draining the spa. Once the spa is drained, disconnect the
2 couplings attached to the pump (wet end). Normally you can hand loosen but
occasionally you will need to use a large wrench to loosen. You can also use a oil
filter wrench to loosen. (see Chapter XX for specific spa suggestions)
Next: The motor itself is attached by four nuts at the feet. There is likely
a copper bonding wire attached to the motor. Remove. Unplug the pump cord
from the control box.
Remove pump/motor assembly.
Disassemble Pump (wetend).
A. Remove 4 bolts holding the front face of the pump (volute) to the pump
housing.
B. You will see the eye-seal on the nose of the impellor and the impellor.
You will want to disconnect the impellor from the motor shaft. The motor shaft
screws into the impellor. The intended method to separate is this: on the opposite
end of the pump/motor assembly, in the middle, is the motor shaft end. It has a
slot. Take a large slotted screwdriver and while holding the impellor stationary
with one hand, turn the motor shaft with the other. If this doesn’t work, reverse
focus and turn the impellor with your hand while holding the motor shaft
stationary. In worst case situations, you can grab the motor shaft between the
pump and motor with a pair of vice grips and hand turn the impellor loose. If that
doesn’t work, you will have to use a wrench on the impellor to separate. This will
likely damage the impellor and will need to be replaced.
C. Once the impellor is separated you need to disconnect the pump

bracket or body from the motor. It is held by 4 long bolts that run through the
motor and bolt to the pump. Disconnect each bolt but DO NOT pull the bolts out.
They also hold the motor together and removal will likely cause the motor to
disassemble.
D. If you are replacing the pump (wetend), reverse. If the motor shaft is
corroded, you need to remove the rust. The least abrasive method is best. Start
with steel wool, then try a wire brush or even sandpaper. You need to have a
clean motor shaft so the impellor can tighten cleanly against the seal and make
the seal work. If the motor shaft is highly corroded, the new impellor will not
tighten against the seal and the pump will leak.
E. If you are replacing the motor, you have to move the motor cord from
the old to new. The motor is only a 110-130vac motor so you don’t have any
internal wiring to change for the new motor. The sequence of wiring is the same
for either an Emerson or an AOSmith/Magnatek motor. The top wire connection
is the white (neutral) wire; the middle is the red (high) wire. The bottom is the
black (low) wire.
Extra Help:
If you strip the bolts that hold the pump face (volute) to the J-light pump housing
(bracket), you can easily buy a long bolt and nut locally and insert that through the
hole and tighten. You must tighten all four bolts to snug. If not, the pump will
eventually leak.
On a few models, access to the pump/motor is difficult. Because the pump/motor
is behind the piping and control box, I have found often it’s best to remove the
piping and in a few cases, the control box itself to get to the pump.
“Z” Models made from late 1996- early 1998 often have only a limited access
panel of about 3 feet. The rest of the spa panel is one piece on each side.
Because each side’s panel is built as one piece and screwed into various points
for strength, the only way to remove is to lift the spa up to get to screws that were
placed in upward angles. It’s quite a project. You should consider building a new
side panel and cutting a hole through the existing panel. The amount of effort to
remove the side is more than the time and effort paid to build a new side panel.
This is only applicable to those few production models that only have a small
access panel in front of the equipment.

SINGLE SPEED, 2 or MORE PUMP SPAS:
All 3 Styles of 1 Speed Pump 220-240vac Pump/Motors (2500-250 is the single
low speed pump/motor complete. 2500-251 is the K-Pump 3hp pump/motor
complete. 6540-xxx is the 2.5hp, high pressure pump/motor complete.)
All spas that operate on ONLY 220-240vac current are 2 pump systems. Some
also have a circulation pump.
TWO Pump Systems:
The #1 pump will be the standard Jacuzzi 1JP-pump. The secondary or HIGH
pump will be either a second 1JP-pump or depending on the model, a K-Pump.
TWO Pump Spas with Circulation Pump:
If you have a circulation pump, you have TWO High Pressure pumps to drive the
jets. The circulation pump handles the heating and filtering.
Compare the #2 pump with the #1 Pump. If they have an identical face, they are
both 1JPumps. If the #2 pump has the front suction fitting in the middle of the
face rather than a snout, you have a 3hp K-Pump. If your #1 or #2 pump have the
top discharge on the side of the pump rather than the center, you have a high
pressure pump.
Removal:
Turn off main power. Drain the spa. Most Jacuzzi models do not have valves to
close to avoid draining the spa but check yours.
Once the spa is drained, disconnect the 2 couplings attached to the pump (wet
end). Normally you can hand loosen but occasionally you will need to use a large
wrench to loosen. You can also use a oil filter wrench to remove.

The motor itself is attached by four nuts at the feet; remove. There likely is a
copper bonding wire attached to the back of the motor. Remove. Unplug the
pump cord from the control box.
Remove pump/motor assembly.
Preface: Although pumps can have different fittings, they basically are the same.
So the following is basically applicable for all pump/motors.
Disassemble Pump (wetend).
A. Remove 4 bolts holding the front of the pump (volute) to the pump
housing.
B. You will see the eyeseal on the nose of the impellor and the impellor.
You will want to disconnect the impellor from the motor shaft. The motor shaft
screws into the impellor. The designed method to disconnect is this: on the
opposite end of the pump/motor assembly, in the middle, is the motor shaft. It has
a slot. Take a large slotted screwdriver and while holding the impellor stationary
with one hand, turn the motor shaft with the other. If this doesn’t work, reverse;
turn the impellor with your hand while holding the motor shaft stationary. In worst
case situations, you can grab the motor shaft between the pump and motor with a
pair of vice grips and hand turn the impellor loose. If that doesn’t work, you will
have to use a wrench on the impellor to separate. This will likely damage the
impellor and it will need to be replaced.
C. Once the impellor is separated you need to disconnect the pump
bracket or body from the motor. It is held by 4 long bolts that run through the
motor and bolt to the pump. Disconnect each bolt but DO NOT pull the bolts out.
They also hold the motor together and removal will likely cause the motor to
disassemble.
D. If you are replacing the pump (wetend), reverse. If the motor shaft is
corroded, you need to remove the rust. The least abrasive method is best. Start
with steel wool, then try a wire brush or even sandpaper. You need to have a
clean motor shaft so the impellor can tighten cleanly against the seal and make
the seal work. If the motor shaft is highly corroded, the new impellor will not
tighten against the seal and the pump will leak.
E. If you are replacing the motor, you have to move the motor cord from
the old to new. The motor is 220-240vac. If it’s the 1JP or High Pressure pump
there is likely only one configuration for wiring. On the K-pump the motor can be

wired either 110-130vac or 220-240vac. So observe the label on the motor to wire
correctly. The sequence of wiring is the same for either an Emerson or an
AOSmith/Magnatek motor. White will be neutral and black hot.
Extra Help:
If you strip the bolts that hold the pump face (volute) to the pump housing
(bracket), you can easily buy a long bolt and nut locally and insert that through the
hole and tighten. You must tighten all four bolts to snug. If not, the pump will
eventually leak.
On some models the pump/motor is either behind another pump or even behind
the control box. There is no simple way to remove if you can do have access on
the side of the spa. In these cases, removing the pump/motor in front or in worst
case, the control box is easier.
See Specific Model suggestions found in later Chapters.
Circulation Pump:
On early Pinnacle you have either a smaller 110-130vac circulating pump or a
larger 220-240vac circulation pump. Replacement is easy for both. Usually you
will drain the spa. There isn’t a shut off valve to replace the circ pump with water
still in the spa so you will have to drain it.
For the smaller pump, it‘s a 110-115vac Might Mite. Jacuzzi switched over to a
larger 220vac Aquaflo circulation pump for a short period. During this time many
Pinnacles were retrofitted with the Aquaflo pump. You may have to visually see
which brand pump you have. Also remember to check voltage.
Final productions used a black circulation pump that’s located right in front when
you open the wood access.
Some supply houses sell the smaller replacement pump parts and motors.
Because of the constant service demands on this pump, it usually is wise to
replace the pump/motor complete. With the smaller circ pump, the replacement

pump/motor will come with a cord. It easy to splice the wires together. On the
larger circ pump, you will remove the cord connection from the back of the motor
and install into the new.

Chapter TWO HEATER
Function:
The heater is a simple device. Electricity is applied to the heater element.
Because the element is made to resist the current but not completely, the
heater’s resistance causes the element to glow. The result is heat.
Overview:
The heater does just what’s name says, heats the water. Generally on Jacuzzi
designed spas you will not notice noticeably warm water coming out of the jets
because of the design of the jets. On Jacuzzi Whirlpool design, the water passes
through the heater and then a manifold disperses the water to many jets and thus
spreading out the amount of heater water. On a few designs including the current
Jacuzzi Premium spas it’s common to have the water pass through the heater
and then into the spa using only a couple jets. In doing so you can feel the heater
water entering the spa. As to the better design, it’s a personal preference.
The two basic flow methods start the same way; the water is pulled from the
lower part of the spa (called suction fittings) and one or two assemblies with filters
designed to pull water from the top of the spa. The theory is this will draw water
from upper and lower and therefore keep a thorough water movement.
From these two points the water is pulled through the circulation pump or #1
pump, depending on the design of your spa. Jacuzzi mostly used the #1 pump
method of their spas but later Platinum spas did have a circulation pump.
Then the water passes through the heater. You have 2 types of heaters for a
Jacuzzi Whirlpool. The most common is the horizontal heater attached to the
bottom or bottom backside of the control box. Jacuzzi Whirlpool at the end of
their spa production did begin to use a vertical heater with a circulation pump.
This heater is attached to the left side of the control box.
From the heater the water flows to a manifold that dispenses the heated water
throughout the spa.

The heater itself is simply an element that heats. Electrical current enters it and
slows down. This slowing down causes the element to heat. As water flows by the
heated element the temperature is transferred from the element to the water. It’s
typical to heat 1-6 degrees per hour. The spas that operate on 110-130vac
typically heat 1-2 degrees per hour. Spas that operate on 220-240vac heat 5-6
degrees per hour.
The various generations of Heater Assemblies:
First, there are several generations of heater designs that Jacuzzi used. The first
generation was a horizontal heater with a pressure switch that screws into the
backside and the high limit clips against the heater. It was the most popular
designed used throughout their production.
The next production used a similar horizontal heater that also had the pressure
switch screwed into the top middle and the OH Sensor inserted into the heater
assembly.
On the Pinnnacle Model the heater used is a similar model to the first production
model but longer.
On the Z112 models they used a short horizontal heater on the top of the control
box.
On many of the last Platinum models they began using the vertical heater to the
left of the control box and a small circulation pump in front of the control box.
When the electronic spas were first introduced, I attempted to remove the heater
assembly with the control box remaining attached. The heater is held in place by
two “L” straps. Each strap is held to the control box by a bolt. One end of the
strap is attached to the back of the control box and the other underneath. I would
remove the back bolts and then attempt to loosen the lower bolt. These weren’t or
rarely were easily accessible and I would end up with a lot of frustration and
bloody knuckles. I would even try leaving the lower bolts tight and bend the straps
and remove the heater assembly but this would distort the straps so when you
bend them back they would not align with the holes.

Then I thought outside the box and now always do it this way: remove the control
box.
On models built from 1995-2001 Platinum, 1995-1996 ECHO, 1998-2001
SELECT:
Turn off main power. Drain spa.
Remove cover on control box. You will see the heater’s post coming through the
wall of the control box. There are two. Note on the posts there is a nut holding the
wire going to the in place. To remove the nut and since the post is rather thin, the
manufacturer builds into the post a second nut below the wire. In doing this, you
can loosen and tighten the nut without putting pressure on the post. The
manufacturer recommends you place a wrench above and below to loosen and
tighten the nut. I have found that if care is taken, you only need to loosen/tighten
the nut itself but if you are concerned, by all means use both nuts. I have found
that if you insert your finger to stabilize the post when loosening/tighting the nuts
you can provide enough torque without bending the posts. But care must be
used. Save the nuts because you normally must reuse them.
Disconnect heater assembly from plumbing. ID the heater strap holding the
heater in place. Reach around to the back of the strap where the strap attaches
to the back of the control box. Remove the 2 bolts holding the strap in place. This
will also release the control box from the mounting bracket holding the box to the
spa.
Now note that the box is being held by 2 nuts on the upper corners of the
mounting bracket. Remove those nuts and the whole control box will be free
standing.
The only thing keeping you from pulling the control box up and toward you is the
incoming electrical. Depending on how your electrician wired your spa determines
how easy this will be. If he included slack on the line, you should be able to pull
the box up and toward you enough for your purpose. On rare occasions the
electrician wired the system with no slack. If this is true with your’s you have
several choices: first, call an electrician to disconnect the wiring while you replace
the heater,. Or you can remove the heater assembly as mentioned above and
keep the control box in place. Or if you are confident you understand and can

deal with electrical wiring, disconnect the incoming wires that attach to the
terminal at the control box, remove the cord from the box, and pull the box up and
out then reverse when installing. The key part if you decide to do yourself is the
note which wire goes where. The key is you have a NEUTRAL which should be
either a white wire or a wire with white tape on it. Then you have two HOTS which
are either red and black wires or sometimes just black. Then you have a
GROUND wire. The terminal identifies the neutral, hots, and ground lines. Failure
to connect the wires back as previously wired can damage the board. Fortunately
the wires tend to stay in the right configuration. Also remember to insert the wires
completely into the terminal block and tighten the screw.
Now lift the control box out enough that you can comfortably reach down and
loosen the 2 other bolts holding the heater in place. Remove bolts or loosen to
end.
Now the only thing holding the assembly in place are the OH sensor and the two
wires connected to the pressure switch.
To remove the OH sensor, simply pull out of the clip holding it to the heater. I
have found times that the clip was TOO tight and had to bend the clip apart taking
care not to damage the sensor. But normally the sensor pulls straight out.
Simply pull the 2 wires off the pressure switch. When you reattach, there is no
proper sequence
Now simply remove the heater assembly and install the new.
Reverse.
On Models built 1997-1999 with a DIAL Temperature Control on Topside.
Again, I learn to think outside the box. It seems almost impossible to remove the
heater assembly with the control box in place. It’s not but my way is easier and
quicker.
Turn off main power and drain spa. Disconnect heater from spa plumbing.
Open the metal cover on the control box. You will see 2 copper straps running

from the board terminal to the heater posts. Unscrew the two screws holding the
straps to the board terminal. Unbolt the two nuts holding the copper straps to the
heater posts. When you reattach the new heater you will tighten to snug.
You will see that your control box stands on two legs. On most electrical
installation the electrician left enough play on the incoming power to remove the
control box enough to do the following. If your incoming power is tight and there is
no extra cord, see the above for help.
Remove the 2 bolts on each side that hold the box to the legs. Do NOT remove
the nut/bolts that hold the legs to the floor of the spa.
Now the control box will be free to pull up and toward you. When you do you will
see the OH sensor attached to the heater on a clip. Pull the sensor out. You will
also see 2 wires attached to the pressure switch. Unplug.
Remove the 2 bolts on the upper strap holding the heater assembly. I usually only
loosen the lower 2 bolts to the end of their thread. This will allow you to remove
the heater assembly.
Reverse to install. Tighten nuts/screws to snug. If the alignment of the heater has
slightly change so the straps don’t align with the holes, you can slightly bend the
copper straps to adjust for the change.
On Z models with a digital topside 1998-2001
Turn off power and drain spa. Disconnect heater from plumbing.
Open the metal cover on control box. You will see the heater on the bottom of the
box. Unplug the 2 wires connected to the pressure switch. On the right topside of
the heater you will see the OH sensor. Follow that line up to where it connects to
the board on the upper right corner. The plug is a clip with a release. Unfortuately,
the release clip is on the top of the plug so sometimes you can reach and press
down to release. Other times you take a small screwdriver to reach and press
down. The plug will simply pull out. If a little confused, look at the new assembly
and you will see the clip mentioned.

Remove the 2 copper straps. First unbolt where then attach to the board. Second
remove nuts connecting the board to the heater posts. Note that the heater posts
have a nut on top and a nut built in to the bottom below the copper contact. This
is so you can put less pressure on the post when loosening or tightening. You
place a wrench on both top and bottom and loosen/tighten. If you cant reach the
lower nut, just take care when loosing/tightening so you don’t bend the heater
posts.
Remove old heater. Reverse above to install new heater.
On Vertical Heater:
For spas with a vertical heater on the left side of the control box, replacement is
easy.
You must replace the complete heater.
Turn off power. You probably will have to drain the spa. Disconnect the two hoses
connected to the heater input/output. The 2 leads from the board to the heater
need to be removed. Simply remove the nuts (save for reuse) and disconnect the
leads.
Finally, the heater is held to the control box by 2-3 nuts. Remove. The heater will
disengage from the control box and replace.