Jacuzzi Z Builder Series Operating instructions

The Mechanics and Repair of
Jacuzzi

Whirlpool Bath
Hot Tub Spas
For the Following ELECTRONIC Spas Made 1995-2001
Dealer Premium Model Line (sold through dealers):

Z Builder Series Line (sold through big box stores):

(does not include Z101)
Published by Clear Creek Spas
Copyrighted. All Rights Reserved. B.Bouman and Company, LLC

Disclaimer
Every effort has been made to make this manual understandable and applicable.
If you have doubts or little experience with electrical appliances, it’s best to leave
electrical work to licensed electricians. Care and proper electrical procedures
must be adhered to whenever working with electricity and especially is true with
spas since you are dealing with electrical current that can harm or kill your or
those near or in the spa.
As a Rule of Thumb: ALWAYS TURN THE SPA’S MAIN POWER OFF
UNLESS REQUIRED TO PERFORM A TEST. WHEN YOU DO HAVE POWER
ON BE CAREFUL AND USE PROPER ELECTRICAL PROTECTION AND
PROCEDURES.
Although this booklet should be able to guide you through most repairs and even
diagnosing the problem, www.clearcreekspas.com offers an “Ask the Expert” free
of charge and you can write me and be more specific for your spa and your
particular problem.
Every effort has been made to be accurate and complete but note we cannot
guarantee specific accuracy.
Throughout this manual reference to part numbers are Jacuzzi Premium Spa
numbers. If the part number prefix is “CC” the part is our own number and
available on our website.

Table of Contents
Introduction
Overview
Section One: Equipment and Parts
Chapter One: Pumps and Motors
Chapter Two: Heaters
Chapter Three: Control System
Chapter Four: Air Blowers
Chapter Five: Pressure Switch: Flow Switch
Chapter Six: Sensors
Chapter Seven: Topside Control
Chapter Eight: Ozonators
Chapter Nine: Mood Lights
Chapter Ten: Plumbing
Chapter Eleven: Spa Jets
Chapter Twelve: Stereo
Section Two: Troubleshooting
I. Trips GFCI
II. Doesn’t Heat
III. Motor Hums
IV. Pump Leaks
V. Diagnose Your Problem by CLICKS
VI. Error Codes
Section Three: Review of Specific Models

Introduction
I started servicing Jacuzzi Whirlpool Bath spas in 1995. I first started by working
for a friend who was an Authorized Service Center for Jacuzzi Whirlpool Bath.
Shortly after that I purchased the spa repair business from him and became the
owner.
From that date to 2001 we were the authorized Service Center for Jacuzzi
Whirlpool Products in the Denver and Eastern Colorado area. During that time we
were rated in the top 10 service companies in the United States for customer
service. We were the only Service Company to receive that award every time it
was offered during those years. When Jacuzzi, Inc reorganized their company in
2001, they moved their spa production to their Sundance plant. We continue to
and are still servicing Jacuzzi Hot Tubs as a service center.
It just happened that when I started working and servicing spas for Jacuzzi
Whirlpool Bath was also the time the industry was switching to electronic
controlled spas. Therefore I experienced the changes that have occurred during
this time and continue to work in the field, I have experienced a wide spectrum of
problems and their solution. I would like to say I have seen it all but that always
proves untrue.
I have tried to make this manual simple but comprehensive; quite a challenge. To
do so I try first to explain what and how the part works. Then how to replace or
repair the part. I have also come up with the CLICK method of identifying
problems.
In the Troubleshooting Section I have found 99% of the problems with a spa are
routine if you follow a systemic approach. Sometimes I make this approach too
obvious but for the sake of the weekend warrior, I made it so.
If you have questions not specifically addressed in this manual, I have an email
address specifically created for you. It’s the first email I check, usually every
business day. Just email me at: [e-mail]. I will be
willing to help all I can.

Overview
GENERAL
Basically, spa operation is simple. The pump draws the water from the spa,
through the pump and pushes it through the heater and back into the spa. Now
add more jets, more pumps, an air blower, and maybe a stereo. That’s today’s
popular spa.
America’s lust for more jets has driven the need for more pumps to drive the jets.
To help keep the spa clean with less chemicals, manufacturer’s have added a 24
hour circulation pump and Ozonator. For some older premium models, you also
have added an air bubbling up from the bottom of the spa.
Many end users have opted for the simpler “Z” or builder series of spas Jacuzzi
Whirlpool produced for about six years. These spas were produced with volume
sales through big box stores in mind. Doing so made spas available to many who
could not afford to buy the dealer line of spas.
This manual focuses on both the Dealer line of Jacuzzi Whirlpool spas and the
“Z” series.
SPA SHELL
Jacuzzi’s spa finish skin is acrylic. A sheet of acrylic is heated and dropped into a
mold and vacuumed to form the shell. Then it’s flipped over and sprayed with a
fiberglass solution that gives it strength. Holes are drilled into the spa and jets
installed. Then the plumbing is finished and insulation is now sprayed. Finally the
equipment is installed. The construction of the spa is mostly performed with the
spa upside down. Finally the spa is flipped upright and final tests including water
testing is done.
The spa frame is made a wide variety of ways over the years but basically on
either a wood bracing, solid plywood base, or fiberglass base. Often the spa shell
has part of the frame molded into the actual spa shell or glued to it to create
strength.

Paneling
The paneling of spas has changed over the years. Initially redwood or cedar was
the common siding. Jacuzzi built spas with slats glued to a plastic sheet and
screwed to the spa frame. An attempt to economize cost panels were built of
various woods and stained but this has been discontinued. Most common now
are synthetic plastic panels or slats. These are becoming popular even though
they can be as costly as redwood or cedar. But they are able to withstand the
elements with little care.

Chapter ONE Pump & Motors
Overview:
There can be confusion; What’s a pump? What’s a motor? Are they the same?
The “pump” is considered by many to be the complete pump/motor and by others
only the end where the water passes through. The “wetend” is the more common
word for the end that moves the water.
Jacuzzi’s pump or wetend is patented by Jacuzzi and only sold by them. The
motor is made by others.
Jacuzzi Whirlpool first used their WHITE pump in common production. It’s a one
piece pump that bolts to the motor body by 4 bolts on the pumps gray mounting
plate. If the pump fails, you must replace the complete white pump. They are
NOT interchangeable with the next generation pump.
The “J” PUMP is BLACK and made of the main body or bracket that mounts on
the motor by the 4 bolts that hold the motor together.
Then the impellor which attaches to the motor shaft. When the impellor rotates its
what moves the water. Between the impellor and the bracket is the seal. The seal
is a two part component with ½ in the bracket and ½ on the impellor shaft. When
these two mate they compress and seal the pump from leaking. Then an
“eyeseal” is on the front of the impellor. A large oring seals the front of the pump
(volute) when the bolts tighten them together.
Simply explained, when the impellor turns it compresses the water and the
compressed water escapes out of the top of the pump.
Commonly, the “motor” is ONLY the motor, Jacuzzi used either AO Smith or
Emerson motors although earlier they used other brands. Most motors are either
110vac or 220vac although some can be either. If either, you can “field wire” the
motor to match the application you are installing. But typically, it’s a set voltage.
The key for motors is matching the horsepower (hp) of the motor to the pump.

You can have a motor oversized for a pump hp and be OK. It’s like having an
oversized motor for your car. But you can not have a pump too large for the
motor. If you do, the motor will have a early failure. It’s like driving a large car with
an undersized motor. Best bet is to match.
Jacuzzi used 3 motors on their 1995-2001 spa production. For 110vac spas, 2
speed single motor. On their 2 pump systems they commonly used two 220v
single speed pumps. In 1999 they introduced the Pinnacle Model which has a
small circulation pump and two non-Jacuzzi pumps. They did this configuration
on other models in 2000/1.
In the early 90’s Jacuzzi designed their own proprietary pump. They called it the
“J-pump” (explained previously) and soon followed with the “K-Pump”. The “J-
Pump” has a low snout for the incoming suction fitting and a top center discharge.
It’s used in the low and 2 speed pumps. The “K-Pump” is a mid-center suction
connection with a top center discharge. It’s only used in the 3hp pump.
The “J” and “K” pump are a volume pump at low pressure. What this means is
that they are designed to move a large volume of water but not at high pressure.
It’s easy to compare the Jacuzzi pump as a wide flowing river verses a narrow
fast moving river. By design you can sit again a number of jets for a length of time
and not feel irritation. On pumps built by others the pressure out of the jets are
often strong enough to become uncomfortable. In later products Jacuzzi
Whirlpool added high pressured pumps.
Just a note about ratings: It seems Jacuzzi engineers have a hard time rating
their pumps, especially the low and 2 speed. It’s easy to understand because
they initially rated the low speed pump as a ¾ hp pump and the 2 speed 1 ½ hp.
But it must have become apparent that they underated the pumps because they
upgraded the rating to 1hp and 2hp. Since then, the rating has change to just the
low pump and their 2 speed pump. The 3hp pump has remained at their rating.
Lastly, in the industry the motor is motor only, pump is the wetend, and when they
are together, they are called pump complete.
PUMP/MOTOR
The motor takes electrical current and turns the shaft clockwise. Although

individual parts may be available, usually bad motors are replaced not repair.
REPLACING Pump/Motor:
SINGLE PUMP SPAS:
110vac, 2 Speed Pump;(part #2500-255 standard duty pump/motor complete;
#CC-F570HD heavy duty pump/motor complete; Pump Only: #CC-2jp)
If your spa has only one pump, You have a 110v, 2 speed pump that serves as
both low and high speeds.
Removal:
Turn main power off. Drain the spa. Most Jacuzzi models do not have
valves to close to avoid draining the spa. Once the spa is drained, disconnect the
2 couplings attached to the pump (wet end). Normally you can hand loosen but
occasionally you will need to use a large wrench to loosen. You can also use a oil
filter wrench to loosen. (see Chapter XX for specific spa suggestions)
Next: The motor itself is attached by four nuts at the feet. There is likely
a copper bonding wire attached to the motor. Remove. Unplug the pump cord
from the control box.
Remove pump/motor assembly.
Disassemble Pump (wetend).
A. Remove 4 bolts holding the front face of the pump (volute) to the pump
housing.
B. You will see the eye-seal on the nose of the impellor and the impellor.
You will want to disconnect the impellor from the motor shaft. The motor shaft
screws into the impellor. The intended method to separate is this: on the opposite
end of the pump/motor assembly, in the middle, is the motor shaft end. It has a
slot. Take a large slotted screwdriver and while holding the impellor stationary
with one hand, turn the motor shaft with the other. If this doesn’t work, reverse
focus and turn the impellor with your hand while holding the motor shaft
stationary. In worst case situations, you can grab the motor shaft between the
pump and motor with a pair of vice grips and hand turn the impellor loose. If that
doesn’t work, you will have to use a wrench on the impellor to separate. This will
likely damage the impellor and will need to be replaced.
C. Once the impellor is separated you need to disconnect the pump

bracket or body from the motor. It is held by 4 long bolts that run through the
motor and bolt to the pump. Disconnect each bolt but DO NOT pull the bolts out.
They also hold the motor together and removal will likely cause the motor to
disassemble.
D. If you are replacing the pump (wetend), reverse. If the motor shaft is
corroded, you need to remove the rust. The least abrasive method is best. Start
with steel wool, then try a wire brush or even sandpaper. You need to have a
clean motor shaft so the impellor can tighten cleanly against the seal and make
the seal work. If the motor shaft is highly corroded, the new impellor will not
tighten against the seal and the pump will leak.
E. If you are replacing the motor, you have to move the motor cord from
the old to new. The motor is only a 110-130vac motor so you don’t have any
internal wiring to change for the new motor. The sequence of wiring is the same
for either an Emerson or an AOSmith/Magnatek motor. The top wire connection
is the white (neutral) wire; the middle is the red (high) wire. The bottom is the
black (low) wire.
Extra Help:
If you strip the bolts that hold the pump face (volute) to the J-light pump housing
(bracket), you can easily buy a long bolt and nut locally and insert that through the
hole and tighten. You must tighten all four bolts to snug. If not, the pump will
eventually leak.
On a few models, access to the pump/motor is difficult. Because the pump/motor
is behind the piping and control box, I have found often it’s best to remove the
piping and in a few cases, the control box itself to get to the pump.
“Z” Models made from late 1996- early 1998 often have only a limited access
panel of about 3 feet. The rest of the spa panel is one piece on each side.
Because each side’s panel is built as one piece and screwed into various points
for strength, the only way to remove is to lift the spa up to get to screws that were
placed in upward angles. It’s quite a project. You should consider building a new
side panel and cutting a hole through the existing panel. The amount of effort to
remove the side is more than the time and effort paid to build a new side panel.
This is only applicable to those few production models that only have a small
access panel in front of the equipment.