Lanier R/C MARINER .40 User manual

Assembly Instructions
LANIER R/C MARINER .40
Wingspan....62”
Wing Area…687 sq. in.
Weight……..6 – 7 lbs.
Wing Loading…21-23 oz./sq. ft.
Fuselage Length…48”
Engine Required ... 2-Stroke .40 - .50
WARRANTY ……………… Lanier R/C is proud of the care and attention that goes into the manufacture of parts for
its model kits. The company warrants that for a period of 30 days, it will replace, at the buyers request, any parts or
material shown to the company's satisfaction to have been defective in workmanship or material at the time of
purchase.
Important Information
The bottom of the hull is covered with fiberglass. The iron on covering does
not stick well to the fiberglass. It is your responsibility to keep the edges of
the covering ironed down so the covering does not come off. The bottom of
the hull receives a lot of abrasion and the covering coming loose is not
COVERED UNDER WARRANTY. Due to temperature changes the plane may
develop some wrinkles in the covering that you will need to remove with an
iron. Be sure to seal the edges down first so that you do not cause the
covering to shrink and leave exposed areas of wood. Please inspect the
LANIER R/C, INC.- P O Box 458 - Oakwood, GA 30566 - Ph 770-532-6401
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© Copyright 2001 Lanier R/C Inc.

Assembly Instructions
LANIER R/C MARINER .40
plane before beginning to assemble to make sure you are happy with it.
After assembly has begun you cannot return the kit. If you find a problem
before beginning to assemble the plane you must contact us, please do not
return it to the dealer.
No other warranty of any kind, expressed or implied, is made with respect to the merchandise sold by the company.
The buyer acknowledges and understands that he is purchasing only a component kit from which the buyer will
himself construct a finished flying model airplane. The company is neither the manufacturer of such a flying model
airplane, nor a seller of it. The buyer hereby assumes the risk and all liability for personal or property damage or
injury arising out of the buyers use of the components or the finished flying model airplane, whenever any such
damage or injury shall occur.
Any action brought forth against the company, based on the breach of the contract of sale to the buyer, or on any
alleged warranty there under, must be brought within/ year of the date of such sale, or there after be barred. This
one year limitation is imposed by agreement of the parties as permitted by the laws of the state of Georgia.
LANIER R/C, INC.- P O Box 458 - Oakwood, GA 30566 - Ph 770-532-6401
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Assembly Instructions
LANIER R/C MARINER .40
INTRODUCTION
Congratulations and thank you for purchasing
the Lanier Mariner. We are sure you will be
happy with the quality of this kit and just as
eager to fly it as we were the prototypes. We
have spent many hours perfecting the Mariner
so that you will be assured its performance will
be what you have come to expect from a Lanier
kit.
Clear off the workbench and gather up your
tools and get ready for a cosmic experience.
See last page for tools required.
………. Keep on reading
WING ASSEMBLY
Start with one wing panel. So many of the
ARF’s you have assembled have you glue the
wing panels together as the first step in
assembly. We do it different. When all the parts
are assembled on both wing panels, then join
them. You will find this method much easier.
1. Begin with one wing panel. Remove the
aileron and hinges from wing and aileron. Fold
each hinge in half and stick a pin in the fold.
Trial fit each hinge in the slot to check for
depth. Some slots need to be cleaned out, use
a #11 Exacto blade to clean them out.
2. Push each hinge in the slot in the trailing
edge. Now align the aileron with the hinges and
push in to the pins. Remove all the pins and
close the gap. Align end of aileron with wing
tip.
3. Fold the aileron down and apply 3 drops of
thin CA to each hinge placement. Turn the wing
over and repeat as stated above. Do not use
any type of accelerator to speed up the curing
process; this will make the hinge brittle.
4. Locate the servo mounting plate and remove
the covering over the slot with a micro tip
soldering iron. Not only does this remove the
covering easily but it seals the edge. Do both
servo mounting plates.
5. Position the servo on the mounting
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plate with the output arm centered in the slot.
Apply a small square of double sticky sided tape
(not supplied) to the servo case to hold it in
position. Cut 4 pieces of 3/8” sq. hardwood, 2
for each servo. Square up the ends. Epoxy one

Assembly Instructions
LANIER R/C MARINER .40
mount under each servo mounting rail, at each
end. Be careful not to glue the servo in place.
When cured install the servo mounting screw.
(not supplied) Now do the other servo mount.
Make sure you have a LH and a RH mount.
6. Using the micro tip soldering iron again,
remove the covering over the hole adjacent to
the hole in the end root rib on the bottom side
of the wing. Do both wing panels.
7. You will need two 6” servo lead extension for
this next step. (not supplied), one for each wing.
The extensions must be compatible with your
radio system. Plug the 6” extension into the
servo and secure the connection with tape to
make sure it doesn’t come apart.
8. Push a long thin wire thru the wing from the
hole in the end root rib. Tie or tape on the servo
connector and pull it through the wing panel.
Now push it up through the hole in the bottom
of the wing. Tape the end of the lead to the
wing to prevent it from falling back into the exit
hole. Now do the same to the other wing panel.
9. Place the servo board in the wing opening.
Drill four 1/16” holes in each corner 1/8” in from
each side. Use the #2 x 3/8” screws provided.
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Note: hardware my vary in looks from that
shown.
10. Using a straightedge, place a mark on the
aileron to locate the control horn. The holes in
the horn must be in line with the hinge line.
11. Place the control horn on the mark and CA
it in place using thin CA. Block sanding the base
will help it adhere better. When cured, match
drill the holes with a 3/32” drill. This will give
better screw alignment to the nut plate on the
far side. Now fasten in place with the hardware
supplied.
11. Temporarily plug the servo into the receiver.
Turn on the radio and allow the servo to center.
With the servo centered, make sure the servo is
installed as shown in the photo.
12. Locate a 2-56x4" wire pushrod threaded on
both ends. Install the metal clevis, with lock
nuts, on both ends of the pushrod. Install the
clevis on the control horn and the servo arm.
13. Before pushing the wire through the hole in
the float, relieve the edge of the hole with a
burring tool, or #11 Exacto blade, so that wire
will lay flat against float strut.
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Assembly Instructions
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14. Install the wire strut in the float and fasten
in place with the hardware shown in the photo.
The long leg of the wire strut will protrude
through the float slightly.
15. In order for the wire strut to fit snuggly in
the slot relieve the edge of the hole with a
burring tool or # 11 Exacto blade.
16. Install the float assembly in the slot
provided and fasten in place with the hardware
shown in the photo.
17. Secure the float assembly in place with the
hardware shown. Be sure to place the metal
straps at an angle for secure mounting of screw.
18. Now mount the float assembly on the other
wing panel as stated in the above steps.
19. Mix 2 oz. of 30-minute epoxy in a mixing
cup. Apply a liberal amount of epoxy into the
wing joiner box in the wing. Apply epoxy to the
root rib. Finally, apply epoxy to both sides, the
top and the bottom, of the wing joiner. Insert
the joiner into the wing. Slide the wing panel
onto the joiner. Wipe any excess epoxy from the
wing joint and clean any glue residue with
rubbing alcohol. Hold the wing together with
masking tape. The masking tape will retain the
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Assembly Instructions
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epoxy in the joint. Set the assembly aside until
the epoxy has cured.
20. This completes the wing assy. Set it aside
and we will move on to the tail.
TAIL ASSEMBLY
First it will be necessary to remove covering
over the wood gluing surfaces. This can be
done as stated before, that is, with a micro tip
soldering iron or by carefully cutting it with a
sharp razor. Be sure to cut inside the lines so
that the bare space will not show when the
parts are assembled
1. Draw two parallel lines with a felt tip pen
using the slot as a guide.
2. Place the stab on the fuselage and center it.
Hold it in place with masking tape. Hold the
vertical fin in position and mark the end of the
dorsal fin on the fuselage.
3. Extend the parallel lines from the stab to the
mark on the fuselage. Now remove the
covering in between the lines. Careful, do not
remove beyond the end of the dorsal fin mark.
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4. Turn the fuselage over and mark the outline
on the bottom of the stab with felt tip pen
5. Remove the covering between the lines.
6. Lay the fin support in position and draw a
line around the top edge. Turn the fin over and
do the same thing.
7. Remove the covering inside the lines you
have drawn. The fin support also rests against
the stab. Remove the covering there for wood
to wood glue joint. The tail components are
ready to mount on the fuselage.
8. Glue on the stab first using 5 min epoxy.
Tape a long straightedge on the wing saddle.
After gluing site from back of fuselage to make
sure stab is parallel with the wing.
9. Glue on the fin using 5 min. epoxy. Make
sure it is perpendicular with the stab. Use a
square and tape the fin in place. Now glue on
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Assembly Instructions
LANIER R/C MARINER .40
the fin supports on either side of the fin. Wipe
off the excess epoxy with alcohol and a paper
towel and allow to cure.
10. Hinge the rudder and elevator according to
the method described in Wing Assembly, steps
1, 2, and 3.
11. Before hinging the elevator and rudder to
the stab and vertical fin, locate the control horns
and CA them in place with thin CA. Match drill
the holes and complete mounting with hardware
supplied.
12. Locate the sub-dorsal fin. Draw a center
line on the bottom of the hull, remove the
covering the width and length of the fin. Install
the hinge in the rudder and epoxy the fin in
place. The rudder and hinge will keep it
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Assembly Instructions
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vertical. Tape the forward end to maintain
alignment. Note: it may be necessary to slot the
sub-dorsal fin for the hinge placement.
MOUNTING THE SERVOS AND PUSHRODS
1. Locate the 3/8” sq. x 24” pieces of wood.
Cut 2 pieces 2-1/2” long. Now cut 2 more
pieces 5-3/8” long.
2. Using 5 min. epoxy, glue one long rail
against the forward edge of the bulkhead as
shown. Glue the two short pieces under the rail,
against the sides, and parallel with the bottom
edge of the wing saddle doubler. Glue the
forward rail in place. Use a servo to get the
proper spacing required.
3. Locate the pushrod material. Cut 2 pieces
from the outer sleeving 18” long. Cut the long
carbon fiber pushrod into 2 – 22-1/4” pieces.
Screw the short threaded rods into one end of
the pushrod 3/8”. Install the hex nut and screw
on a clevis. Do two pushrods.
4. Prepare the other end of the pushrods that
will hook up to the servo arms. Locate two 4” x
4-40 rods threaded on both ends. Screw them
in 3/8” on both pushrods.
5. Uncover the pushrod exit holes in the aft end
of the fuselage. Enlarge them so the pushrod
sleeving will fit using a motor burring tool or
Exacto blade. Push the sleeving in leaving
approx. 1” extending. Using Silicone Sealer,
glue them in place both sides.
6. Mount both pushrods in the sleeves and hook
up to control horns on rudder and elevator.
Place a hex nut and clevis on each.
7. Install the pushrod support on the sleeves
temporarily for alignment with the servos. Do
not glue in place yet.
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8. Mount a hex nut and clevis on each of the
pushrods. Plug the servos into the receiver and
electrically center them. Mechanically adjust the
linkage so the rudder and elevator are at neutral
with the servo centered. Some final adjustment
will be required later on.
ENGINE POD ASSEMBLY
1. Locate the engine pod with mast. Find the
center of the firewall by drawing lines from each
corner. Now strike a horizontal and vertical line.
The engine mount will be centered on the
firewall.
2. The engine mount is adjustable to fit many
sizes of engines. Adjust the mount to fit your
engine and tape it together, but first it
necessary to cut the nose gear support off the
bottom of the mount.
3. Trial fit the engine in the mount adjusting for
width of crankcase.
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Assembly Instructions
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4. Once the fit has been determined, tape the
mount to hold it in place.
5. Center the engine on the firewall, mark the
holes for the mount, drill, and install the blind
nuts. Now install the engine mount with the
hardware supplied. Do not install engine yet.
6. Unpack the cowl and cutout the opening for
the engine as shown in the photo. Make it large
enough so you can access the engine mounting
bolts. Use a Dremel drum sander to remove the
fiberglass for the access hole.
7. Notch out for mast to allow for cowl
adjustment fore and aft.
8. Using a piece of cardboard, the height of the
pod, mark two hole, 1/8” in from the front edge
and 5/8” from top and bottom. Tape it to the
pod with the front edge flush with the firewall.
You will also need one for the other side.
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Assembly Instructions
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9. Slide the cowl on to the pod under the
templates. Temporarily set the engine in the
mount. Mount the spinner back plate on the
engine crankshaft with prop to hold it in place.
Adjust the cowl so that you have 3/32”
clearance between it and the back plate. Now
tape the cowl to the pod.
10. Drill four 1/16” dia. holes, two on each side.
Use a hand drill however a drill press will ensure
straighter holes. Do both sides.
11. Install four #2 x 3/8” sheet metal screws to
retain the cowl in place.
12. Place a piece of masking tape on each
engine bearer. Temporarily hold engine in
mount maintaining proper clearance with
spinner back plate and cowl. Mark front edge of
engine mount on tape.
13. Remove cowl and engine mount from the
pod.
14. Clamp engine to one beam making sure
the front edge of the engine mount is on the
line you just marked on the tape. Now mark the
two holes in the mount. Place in drill press and
drill the two holes with a 3/32” drill bit. Now
mark and drill the other beam mount as stated
above.
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15. Re-install the engine mount on the pod
making sure the width is correct for the engine,
tighten up the mounting bolts.
16. Drill two ¼” holes, as shown in the photo,
and one 3/16” hole
17. Locate the fuel tank and assemble the parts
on the stopper. Bend the vent line carefully to
avoid kinking. File all sharp corners on tubing
end so fuel line will not be cut. Make sure inside
of tank is clean before installing stopper on tank.
18. Cut two lengths of medium fuel line 7” long.
Install them on the vent and supply tubes
coming from the tank. Slide the tank in place as
shown. Feed the lines through the two holes in
the firewall.
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19, Install the throttle servo on the mounts in
the pod. It may be necessary to shim the servo
up so the pushrod will align better with the
throttle arm. Remove the servo output wheel
and assemble an EZ Connector on it. Cut a
small hole in the bottom of the pod, next to the
mast, to exit the throttle servo connector. Tape
the connector lead to the mast.
20. Locate the 6” wire and mount a nylon
clevis on one end. Push the plain end through
the hole in the firewall and attach to the EZ
Connector on the servo arm. Fasten the clevis
on the throttle arm. Adjust servo for proper
direction and open/close position.
21. Remove the engine from the mount. Install
the cowl and align the spinner back plate with
the cowl leaving 1/16” to 3/32” clearance
between them. Center the fuel tank cover over
the cut out and tape in place. Drill 1/16” holes
through cover and pod and install six #2 x 3/8”
screws. Slide the throttle servo cover under the
cowl and install two #2 x 3/8” screws to retain
it. Now reinstall the engine, hook up the
throttle linkage and fuel line. The engine pod is
now complete.
INSTALLING THE ENGINE POD
1. Locate the mast support. Notch off the
forward lower edge of the mast to miss possible
glue gob at the bulkhead/keel joint.
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2. Trial fit the engine pod assembly to be sure
of the fit. The mast should be against the
bulkhead top and bottom. The slot in the
bottom should be firmly placed in the keel and
against the bulkhead. When satisfied, apply 30
min. epoxy to all joints and allow to cure over
night. Apply more epoxy if necessary to edges
of mast support, at sides, and around the mast.
3. Trial fit the wing on the fuselage. The
leading edge should fit snug against the front
former. It may be necessary to increase the
notch depth in the wing to accommodate the
servo lead. Do this with a Motor Tool with a
burring bit. If any, very little will have to be
removed to allow it to fit.
INSTALLING THE HULL LIFTERS
1. Locate the hull lifters and note that you have
a LH and a RH.
2. Place them on the hull with the back edge
flush with the step. Center them on each side.
While holding in place draw a line around each
of them. The curved end to the inside.
3. Using a sharp Exacto knife, cut inside the line
remove the covering as shown. Use a paper
towel and alcohol to remove the ink lines.
4. Mix up some 5 min. epoxy and glue each
lifter in place. Make sure you have a good fillet
of epoxy all around the edges to seal them. The
lifters are necessary to help break the vacuum
sometimes occurring at the step.
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5. Please do not omit the lifters from the
hull!
INSTALLING THE WINDSHIELD
1. Trim the windshield on the mold lines. They
are quite faint but if you look closely, you will
see them. Once trimmed sand the edges
smooth. Be sure to cut out the notch for the
mast, located in the center.
2. Trial fit the windshield on the fuselage. It
may necessary to do some extra trimming on
the sides to match the side windows. Once
satisfied, tape the windshield in place.
3. When positioned and taped, use thin CA glue
(carefully) several places to tack it in place.
Now apply a bead of Pacer Formula 560 Canopy
Glue all around the edges and let cure over
night. It may be necessary to do this again for
a good seal to keep the water out.
INSTALLING THE RADIO
1. We recommend putting the radio receiver is
a plastic bag and then wrapping it with bubble
wrap. If you use foam to wrap it, it will soak up
the water and more likely to let it migrate in.
Mount the receiver just ahead of the servos and
route the antenna out the side, close to the
wing saddle, and up to the vertical fin. Thus
keeping it out of the water
Mount the receiver switch inside, up close to the
wing saddle, using the DuBro Kwik-Switch and
Charging Jack No. 207. Coat the pushrod and
connector door on the outside of the switch with
Vaseline to keep the water out.
2. Standard servos may be used. They are
somewhat water resistant but not water
proof. Futaba does have a servo that is more
water resistant and is called Water
Resistant however, expect to pay more money.
Of course, if they are submerged, forget it. If
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the receiver gets wet and fails to operate, dry it
out before trying to operate it again.
GETTING YOUR MODEL READY TO FLY
NOTE: This section is VERY important and
must NOT be ornitted! A model that is not
properly balanced will be unstable and possibly
crash. You want a first successful flight!
1. Accurately mark the balance point on the
bottom of the wing, on both sides, next to the
fuselage. The balance point is 3-3/16” (28% of
the wing chord) back from the leading edge of
the wing. This is the balance point at which your
model should be balanced for your first flights.
Later, you may experiment by shifting the
balance up to 1/4" forward or back to change
the flying characteristics. If you move the
balance point forward it may improve the
smoothness and tracking, but your Mariner
may require more speed for takeoff and become
more difficult to slow and flare when landing on
the water. If you move the balance aft it will
make it more agile with a lighter feel and allow
you to perform more aerobatic maneuvers.
Please start at the location recommended.
2. All components should be in the model and it
should be ready to fly when balancing, the fuel
tank should be empty.
3. With the wing installed on the fuselage and
the fuel tank empty, lift the model at the
balance point mark on the bottom of the wing.
The model should hang with the nose down at a
10 degree angle. You will find the Mariner
inherently tail heavy and will have to add weight
in the forward hatch compartment. As much as
5 to 6 ounces along with the receiver battery.
The amount of weight required will depend on
the engine size, and how heavily or lightly the
tail was built.
FINAL HOOKUPS AND ADJUSTMENT
1. Remove the servo arms from the servos,
turn on the transmitter and center all the trims.
Now reinstall all the servo arms and secure
them safely.
2. Double- check all servos and make sure
the servo arms are secure and that all clevis are
secured with a retainer.
3. Make sure the control surfaces move in the
proper direction and the throttle is not reversed.
4 –CHANNEL RADIO SETUP
Aileron 3/8” up 3/8” down
Elevator 3/4" up 3/4" down
Measured at widest part
Rudder 1-1/2” left 1-1/2” right
Measured at widest part
4. Adjust the pushrod hookups and set up the
radio to provide the above control travels.
Please use the CG location and control surface
travels listed in this manual for your initial test
flights.
GETTING READY TO FLY
1. Before flying the Mariner, it is necessary to
consider water proofing the wing saddle,
forward hatch and hatches on the engine pod.
It is impossible to completely waterproof it but
at least cut it down to a minimal, keeping out as
much as possible.
2. Spread a bead of GE Silicone Sealer on the
edges of the wing saddle. Lay a piece of wax
paper on it and install the wing, bolting it down.
When cured, remove the wing and wax paper
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and trim the wing saddle edges with a sharp
razor.
3. All of the hatches can be waterproofed by
placing transparent cello tape over all the joints,
sealing them. This will keep them in place and
you may not choose to use screws to hold them.
Just use the tape.
BALANCE THE PROPELLOR
1. Carefully balance the propeller before you fly.
An unbalanced prop is the single most
significant cause of vibration and can cause
damage to your model. Not only will engine
bolts loosen with disastrous effect, but vibration
may also damage your radio receiver and
battery. Vibration can also cause fuel to foam,
which in turn will cause your engine to get hot
or quit.
CHARGE THE BATTERIES
1. Follow the battery charging procedure
recommended in the radio instruction manual.
It is best to charge all the batteries the night
before you intend to fly.
RANGE CHECK THE RADIO
1. Ground check the range of your radio before
the first flight of the day. Make this a practice.
With the transmitter antenna collapsed you
should be able to walk 100 feet away from the
model and have solid control. Repeat this test
with the engine running.
FLYING
Get ready for some fun! Flying off water will be
a new experience for some of you and others it
will be “old hat”. We have spent considerable
time with the Mariner, tuning it up for great
water handling, and ease of lift off.
Our prototypes were powered with a GMS .47’s
and they proved to be plenty of power to fly the
Mariner. You will find the water handling
characteristics superb with the rudder hanging
down in the water becoming the water rudder
making steering very easy.
With engine properly tuned, slide the Mariner in
the water. Advance the throttle and it will come
up on the step with no use of the elevator. This
is due to the generous spray rails and the
special hull lifters mounted on the step. The 3-
1/2 degrees up-thrust in the engine also
promotes positive help to accommodate getting
up on the step.
The flight characteristics of the Mariner are very
good at all ranges of the flight envelope. The
full symmetrical wing promotes some aerobatic
maneuvers such as loops, rolls and spins.
Maybe a few others we have not tried. The
Mariner displays no bad habits in the air.
Landing on water is pure joy! Maybe because it
is one of the flattest landing surfaces you could
ever hope to have. That is, without waves.
When it comes time to land, reduce the throttle
to half and let it sink down toward the water.
Just above the water start to flair and hold it off
in the ground effect, or is that water effect?
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Keep the air speed up, no stall landing here, and
let it settle on the step. Then slowly retard the
throttle and taxi back to shore. Oh, the engine
quit? You had better have a boat, which is a
good idea. Have a ball! However, always stay
in control.
No matter how hard you try, it is always a
problem to keep water out of the hull. This is all
part of flying off the water. Keep the Silicone
Sealer handy and apply a thin coat to all joints
where water might enter. We say this lastly
because it will always remain a problem when
ever you fly.
We hope you enjoy the Mariner as much as we
did bringing it to you. Flying off the water is
different. And different is what keeps us
interested in our hobby. Good Luck…….and
keep it dry.
EQUIPMENT NEEDED TO COMPLETE THE
MARINER
Plastic propeller suitable for engine
.40 to.50 size engine
4 channel radio with 5 servos
three 6” servo extension leads
Receiver switch mount (DuBro No. 207)
Fuel line
2-1/4” spinner
Tools and Supplies Needed (Not Included
in Kit)
Adhesives
Thin CA (cyanoacrylate) glue
Medium CA (cyanoacrylate) glue
Thick CA (cyanoacrylate) glue
CA remover/debonder
6-minute epoxy
30-minute epoxy
Z-42 Threadlock
Tools
Drill
Drill bits: 1/16", 1/8", 5/32", 1/4", 3/8"
Medium Phillips screwdriver
Pliers (needle nose)
Small round file
Hobby knife with #11 blade
Mixing sticks
Epoxy brush(es)
90-degree triangle
Medium sandpaper
Masking tape
Straight edge
Measuring device (e.g., ruler, tape
measure)
Scissors
Paper towels
Wax paper
Rubbing alcohol
Felt tipped pen/pencil
T-pins
Toothpicks (optional)
Moto-tool with cut-off wheel
Tube: GE Silicone Sealer
Lead weight
LANIER R/C, INC.- P O Box 458 - Oakwood, GA 30566 - Ph 770-532-6401
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