Lanier R/C TAYLORCRAFT Instruction Manual

Lanier R/C
TAYLORCRAFT Building instructions
Wingspan ------------------------- 83-1/2” (clipped wing) 108” (long wing)
Length------------------------------ 69”
Wing Area ------------------------ 1336 sq. in. (clipped wing) 1678 sq. in. (long wing)
Wing Loading ------------------- 20 oz./sq. ft. (clipped wing at 12 lbs. 19.3 oz./sq. ft.
(Long Wing at 14 lbs.)
Weight ----------------------------- 12 to 14 lbs. (approx)
Recommended Engines ------.91 to 1.2 2cyc,.91to1.8 four cyc., G23gas
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INTRODUCTION
The Lanier R/C Taylorcraft is not the ordinary
venerable Taylorcraft. It is a scale version of the
Taylorcraft’s modified and made highly aerobatic
by Mike Swick at the Aero County Airport just
north of Dallas, TX. Mike starts with a standard
Taylorcraft airframe and completely rebuilds it to
better-than-new standards. Larger control
surfaces, increased fin and rudder area has
been changed along with a clipped wing to
optimize aerobatic performance. The key to the
Lanier R/C Taylorcraft’s outstanding agility is a
¼ scale version of the Swick design allowing
you to do amazing maneuvers and a whole lot
more.
For those who are not interested in an all out
aerobatic airplane, we have included plans and
material for a set of long wings. Your choice,
build the clipped wing or build the long wing.
You will have to decide before building
This is not a beginners airplane kit. We assume
you have average building skills and are familiar
with the building techniques required to
successfully build this airplane. However,
before beginning construction we urge you to
read through these instructions to familiarize
yourself with the building requirements. Note:
It is wise to leave all the parts in the laser cut
sheets and cut them out as needed. It will make
them much easier to find; preventing
unnecessary confusion on your part.
BUILDING THE STAB AND ELEVATORS
Begin by getting all the materials necessary to
build the tail. Locate sheet 1 of the laser cut
parts and cut out E1,E2, E3, E4, E5, FN1, FN2,
FN3, RU4, RU5, and fillet. When cutting out
these parts, cut the micro tabs holding them in
place with a sharp X-acto knife and the part will
fall out. Do not try to break them out. Find (2)
1/4” x 1/2” x 36” balsa sticks, (3) 1/4” sq. x 36”
balsa sticks and (3) ¼” sq. spruce sticks to be
used on the stab and elevators. Find (1) ¼” x
1/2” x 36”, (2) 1/4” sq. x 24” balsa sticks and (1)
1/4” sq. x 36 spruce stick to be used on the stab
and rudder.
We recommend using a good grade Aliphatic
white glue for gluing like PICA Gluit, Elmers,
Titebond. Any of these will do a good job. Of
course CA glue can be used to help hold the
part while the white glue is curing. Pick out a
flat building surface, spread out the plans for the
stab and elevator and tape them down. Lay a
piece of wax paper over them and you are ready
to start building.
1. Pin down the stab TE and elevator LE on the
plans.
Glue in E1, E2, E3, E4 and pin E5 in place.
Note: before gluing, remove the burned char
from the gluing surface with a sanding stick for
better adhesion.
2. Cut, fit, and glue in the 1/4” hardwood stab
TE
Spar. Cut, fit and glue in the short tail strut
reinforcement pieces.
3. Cut the 1/4” hardwood LE and TE piece to
rough length. Fit and glue them in place around
the perimeter.
4. Finally glue in the 1/4” balsa ribs and
diagonals. Make good square cuts and fit them
close for good strong joints. When cured,
remove them and shape to match the plans.
Drill two 3/32” holes where shown on the plans
for the tail braces.
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BUILDING THE FIN AND RUDDER
Building the fin and rudder is very similar to the
construction of the stab and elevators. Locate
FN1, FN2, FN3, RU4, and RU5. You should
have them cut out already. Sand the chared
edges where glue is spred on each piece for
better adhesion. Locate (1) ¼” sq. x 24” spruce
stick. Also locate (1) 1/4” x 1/2” x 36” balsa stick
and (2) 1/4” x 24” balsa sticks. You are now
ready to build the fin and rudder.
1. Lay the fin and rudder plan down on a flat
building surface covering it with wax paper. Pin
down the fin TE and the Rudder LE. Cut them
roughly to length. Now, cut out the notch inset
for R2 in the fin TE. Glue R1, R2 , R3, and R4
in place. Pin R5 in its location. Install the short
piece of ¼” x ½” balsa backup at the base of the
rudder and glue in place.
2. Using the 1/4” sq. hardwood, cut and fit the
fin LE and the rudder TE. Now cut and fit in the
1\4” balsa ribs and diagonals. Finally, glue the
fillet on the fin LE. Use white aliphatic resin glue
for all joints. When cured, remove from plans
and shape edges to the configuration shown.
Set aside for final sanding and shaping of LE
and TE surfaces.
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BUILDING THE SHORT WING
(also see building the long wing) Begin by
laying the plans down over a flat surface building
one panel at a time. No need for wax paper to
protect the plans because the front lower spar
is shimmed up with 3/32” strips.
1. Pin down the lower front 1/4” x 1/4” spruce
spar shimming it up with short pieces of 3/32” x
1/4” balsa rib capping. Place 2-1/2” lengths
under the spar beginning at the first rib bay and
then at every other bay including the end bay.
Use a long straightedge to make sure the spar is
pinned down straight.
2. Locate and cut out all the ribs to build the
wing panel. Lay them out in position over the
plans to keep in order so as not to glue in the
wrong rib by mistake. Find the wing dihedral
gauge (laser cut sheet 11) and cut it loose. Use
it to place Rib 1A at the proper dihedral angle of
1 degree. Do this carefully. Use thick CA to
tack the rib in place pinning it at the back edge
to the plans. Now glue the rest of the ribs to the
spar. Use the other edge of the dihedral gauge
to make sure the ribs are perpendicular.
3. Locate 3 more 1/4” sq. hardwoods spars and
glue them in the top front and upper and lower
notches. The lower rear spar must be slid in
under the ribs and pushed up into the slots.
Make sure you do not disturb the 1 degree angle
on R1A.
4. Locate and glue on the 3/32” x 1” trailing
edge. It should overhang the back edge of the
rib support by .040.
5. Glue and fit in the 3/32” vertical webbing on
the backside of the front spars and on the front
side of the back spars. Cut (13) 1-1/2” pieces to
be used for the front webbing. Cut (13) 1-1/1/8”
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pieces to be used for the rear webbing. Note:
6. A piece of webbing is required on both sides
of the spars in the first rib bay to retain DB1 and
DB2. Keep glue blobs clean in this area.
7. Cut and glue on the 3/32” x 1” wing TE sheet
just ahead of the aileron. Now glue on the
aileron leading edge aligning the front edge with
the top-protruding end of the aileron. Cut the
sheet a little long letting the ends rest on the ribs
at both ends. Do not glue sheet to these ribs.
Now find the 3/32” x 1/4” rib capping and cap the
aileron ribs. Do not cap the end ribs at this time.
8. Locate and glue on the 1/8” x 1/2” sub
leading edge. Center it on the front of the ribs.
This fits close in order to minimize the sanding
required to bevel both top and bottom edge to
conform to rib configuration.
9. With a 3/32” x 3” balsa sheet, true up one
edge, so that it is straight. Trim off the other
edge so that you have a 2-1/2” wide sheet. Now
do another three sheets. Put a pencil mark, on
each end of the front top spar,1/8” back from the
front edge. Spread white glue on each rib and
along the front sub-LE. Spread thick CA along
the spar where the sheeting will come in contact.
Align the sheeting on the marks and allow CA to
cure before pulling it down to the sub LE. Use
masking tape to hold in place until cured. Now
lift up the wing from the plans and sheet the
other side as described above. Make sure the
wing is weighted down on a flat surface to cure
and not warp.
10. Locate the 3/32” x 1 stock and glue on the
lower TE sheeting. Pin it to a flat surface in
order to keep it flat and straight until cured.
Prop up the LE keeping the TE flat. Use white
glue.
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11. While the wing is curing find (2) R1B and
install the 1/4-20 blind nuts in them. Push the
nuts in flat against the surface. Make a LH and
a RH part and apply thick CA around the edges
to hold them in. Find (4) WS1’s and install 8-32
blind nuts in them. Lastly find the (2) R2A.
Using epoxy, center the metal fittings ST4 on the
centerlines, indicated on the part. Roughen the
sides to be glued and allow the epoxy to flow
through the holes to pin them in place. The
holes should extend 5/8” below the rib. You will
need a LH and RH part here. Be sure.
12. Install R1B with blind nuts on the inside of
R1A using white glue. Clamp if necessary to
make the prongs on the blind nut penetrate the
balsa. Now glue in the two WS1 with blind nuts.
Locate and glue in the R2A with the jury strut
retainers. Glue on the 3/32” x 1” wing TE
sheeting. It’s you choice. You can notch out the
sheet to fit around WS1 or you can butt the
sheet up against both sides of WS1 and fill in
the gap.
13. Locate (2) A1 on laser cut sheet 5. Cut the
micro joints to free them. Using a 1/16” shim for
spacing, glue them in at each end of the aileron.
Some sanding may be necessary to fit them
completely into the trailing edge. The top front
edge should line up with the upper sheeting.
14. Install the 3/32”x 1” lower aileron sheet
aligning it with the ends of A1. Cut it to fit and
glue on to the aileron end A1.
15. Sheet the first 2 rib bays with 3/32” x 3”
sheeting. Starting from the TE and working up.
Fill in the last small opening next to the LE
sheeting. Now cap all the ribs with 3/32” x ¼”
balsa.
16. Fill in between the jury strut supports and
the adjacent rib. Cut 2 pieces of 3/32” sheet
balsa 1-3/4” wide, notch the end to fit around the
support ST6, and glue in place.
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17. Glue 3/32” x 1/4” capping to the servo well
cross supports. Make the edges flush with the
inside surfaces of the well.
18. Now turn the wing over and sheet the root
section, as on the bottom side, and cap all the
ribs with 3/32” x ¼” balsa capping.
19. Cap the wing end rib, next to the aileron ,
with 3/32” sheet cap on top and bottom side. It
is a very narrow strip, becareful, the end rib is
very fragile and easily broken off.
20. Now is the right time to cut out the aileron.
Using a razor saw, cut through the 1/16” gap
between the aileron and wing at both ends.
Now cut through the ribs just behind the wing
TE. Remove the aileron and set it aside.
21. Block sand the wing trailing edge smooth
with the spars and cap with a 1/4” x 1-3/8” x 24”
piece. You will have to trim the ends and fit it.
Use white glue and masking tape to hold it in
place. When cured sand flush with surface.
22. Cut off the extending ribs on the aileron a
the proper angle. The angle is defined by
drawing a line from the edge of the top sheeting
to the edge of the bottom sheet. Use a razor
saw and support the work on an edge of the
bench.
23. Block sand the angle surface with a long
sanding stick. Now cap it with a piece ½” x 1-
3/4” x 24” balsa. Lay the cap on a flat surface.
Pin down if necessary. Line up the bottom
edge of the aileron with the lower edge on the
cap leaving all the material towards the top of
the aileron. This will assure you enough
material for the angle required at the top. Use
white glue and pin down in place.
24. Cut or plane off the excess balsa and sand
flush at each surface maintaining the same
surface plane.
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25. Install AIL3 found on sheet 5, as shown on
the plans, with white glue. Glue in a short piece
of 1/4” sq. reinforcement at each end as shown
on the plans.
26. Plane and sand the wing LE sheeting
flush with the sub-LE. Now glue on the
3/16” x 3/4” leading edge. Use white glue
and hold in place with masking tape. When
cured, remove tape.
27. Locate the 1/2” x 2-1/2” x 16” balsa
block. Stand the wing panel on end and
trace the airfoil configuration on the block.
Cut out the wing tip, slightly outside the line,
and glue it in place. Use white glue and
masking tape to hold. When cured, shape
the tip by rounding the corners and rounding
the front where it meets the LE.
28. Before gluing on R1, the root rib, draw
a line on R1A from top to bottom wing spar,
front and back side. Cut out the balsa
between the lines of each set of spars to
provide an opening for DB1 and DB2.
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you can remove the balsa between the
spars, if you find it more desirable, after R1
has been glued in place. Now glue on R1.
29. Locate DB1 and DB2 on the laser cut
sheet 1. Cut them out and trial fit them in
their respective slots. They may need a
slight amount of sanding to fit do to building
tolerances. Do not glue them in at this
time.
BUILDING THE SERVO MOUNT
1. In the wing servo opening, cut and glue
in (4) 1/4” x 1/4” x 1/2” blocks in each corner
of the opening. Set them below the surface
1/8”.
2. Locate (4) SV2 on sheet 5 and 2-SV3’s
on sheet 8 of the laser cut parts. Lay
one SV3 on a flat surface with wax paper
and center the servo output arm in the slot.
Also center the servo from side to side.
Note the correct orientation of the servo.
Place a small square of doubled sided servo
tape under the servo to hold it in place.
3. Cut 4 pieces of 1/4” 1/4” x 3/4”hardwood.
With the servo in place epoxy one under
each servo mount. Apply epoxy to the end
of each piece only. Now glue in a gusset
SV2 behind each mount and allow to cure.
4. Mount the servo mount in place with
servo mounting screws, available from Micro
Fasteners. They require a ball wrench to
drive them into a 1/16” dia hole. The servo
wire tube, shown as an option, can be
purchased from TnT Landing Gear
Products, Swanton, OH., or your hobby
dealer. It has another function; tying the ribs
together for added strength.
HINGING THE AILERONS
Before hinging the ailerons it is a good idea
to build a simple drill fixture (not included).
The edge of the hinge hole falls at the
bottom edge of the sheeting on the wing and
aileron LE. Impossible to drill without a
fixture. It can be made from 1/2” ply and
won’t take any time to build. The reason for
1/2” ply is that it will support the drill bit
better assuring the hole to be drilled where
you want it. Cut two blocks from 1/2” ply 1-
3/4” x 3”. Glue one on the top edge of the
other one, as shown in the photo. When
cured, drill a 3/16” hole in the center of the
block locating the center of the hole 3/16”
down from the lower edge of the block on
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the opposite side. This is important so take
your time and be accurate with the hole
location. Cover the surface in contact with
the sheeting with sandpaper to keep from
slipping
1. Before locating and drilling the hinge
holes, glue in the 4 – 1/4” x 5/8” x 1” hinge
backing blocks at the wing trailing edge as
noted on the plans.
2. Align and tape the aileron in the wing
opening and mark each hinge location by
striking a line on the wing and aileron. Now
carry the lines down the front surface of the
aileron and wing TE. Mark the center of the
hole on the fixture down and around to the
same hole location on the other side. This
will enable you to line up the centerlines on
the fixture and the part before drilling
3. Using the drill fixture align each hole to
be drilled with the scribed lines. Make sure
the top surface of the fixture is flat on the
wing/aileron surface. Drill carefully. Note:
you will be drilling holes through the upper
rear wing spar. No need to worry, there is
plenty of beef around them. Do not glue in
the hinges until the wing and aileron is fully
covered
4. Align the aileron control horn with the
servo output arm. Use a straightedge
scribe a line on the aileron for its location.
Locate AIL4, on sheet 5 of the laser cut
sheet, and cut it out. Tack glue it to the
aileron noting the forward edge is slightly
ahead of the aileron LE. Now place the
control horn on top, align, and mount using
servo mounting screw. A 1/16” dia. drill is
fine for the screw pilot holes. Make up the
aileron push rod with the components
specified on the plans. Final adjustment can
be made later. Remove the control horn
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and AIL4. It is much easier to cover AIL4
and then glue it on making the aileron easier
to cover as well. Soak the two forward holes
of the control horn mount with thin CA to
harden the balsa. Note: as you progress,
keep all the hardware in one container. It
will be easier to locate later on.
This completes one wing panel. Now build
the other one using the same instructions.
When through set them aside for sanding,
covering and fitting with the fuselage, the
next building project.
BUILDING THE FUSELAGE
Before building the fuselage, cut out 2 each
of the following parts from laser cut sheet 1.
FS1, FS2, FS3, G1, G2, FT1 and FT2. Cut
only the micro joints and they will fall out.
1. Locate a 1/4” x 1/4” x 48” piece of spruce
and cut 4-10” lengths from it. You will need
(2)FT1 and (2) FT2 to build the wing joiner
retaining box.
2. Lay down a FT1 and glue a 10” piece of
1/4” sq. to the top edge and one to the
bottom edge making the ends flush with one
end of FT1. Now glue another FT1 on top
and weight it down. Wipe off excess glue
on the inside edges so that DB1 will fit
and side in smoothly. When cured, sand
off the other end flush with FT1.
3. Now build the FT2 wing joiner retainer
box as described above. Be sure to
remove the glue from the inside edges
before it cures. It will prevent trouble
when trying to install DB2.
4. Lay down the fuselage side plan on a flat
building surface and cover it with wax paper.
Pin down FS1, FS2, and FS3 in their
respective places. Locate a 1/4” sq. x 48”
spruce stick and cut 2- 24” pieces. Now cut
a 11-1/4” length from each 24” piece. These
will be the front door posts. Cut and fit them
in place.
5. Locate a 1/4” sq. x 48” spruce stick, cut
, fit and glue in the fuselage upper and lower
front longerons. Save the rest of this stick
for the other side and the upper aft longeron
extension. Find a 1/4” sq. 36” balsa stick.
Cut, fit, and glue in the uprights between
FT1 and FT2. One stick should do it. Now
glue in G1 and G2.
7. Build in the door frame while you are
working in this section. Locate a 1/4” x 1/2”
x 42” balsa stick. Cut, fit, and glue in the
pieces of the door frame. Find the laser cut
sheet 13 and cut small strips from the scrap
to shim between the door and door opening
for clearance.
8. Locate a 1/4” sq. x 48” spruce stick and
pin down the lower fuselage longeron. Glue
it to FS3 with white glue. Using a 1/4” sq. x
36” spruce stick, pin down the upper
fuselage longeron and glue it to FS2. Now
glue on the upper fuselage longeron
extension. Cut (2) FS8, on sheet 9, and
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glue in between fuselage longerons. Make
sure it is flush with the top surface. Now
glue in the fuselage end balsa upright.
9. Using 1/4” sq. balsa, cut, fit and glue in
the uprights and diagonal fuselage pieces.
10. With one fuselage side completed,
build another over it so that you have
matching sides. Lay wax paper over the
side to prevent gluing them together. The
one exception is, FS8 is glued in flush with
the bottom surface. Locate the FG1
gussets and glue them in as shown on the
plans. This side will be the RH side.
11. When cured remove the pins and turn
the bottom side over. Glue on the FG1
gussets, as before, and pin them in place.
You should now have a RH and LH side.
12. Lay the LH side over the plans and
build in the door frame as described in step
7 above.
13. Sheet both doors as follows: Cut out
D1, D2, and D3 from laser cut Sheet 9A..
Find (1) 3/16” x 3” x 36” balsa sheet. Cut off
a piece 8” and one 5-1/2”. Start the
sheeting edge flush with the windowsill.
Add the next piece below it. Pin and glue in
place. When cured, trim flush with the
frame. Don’t forget you will need a LH
and RH door.
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14. Now locate D1, D2, and D3. Glue
them in place as shown on the plans to
complete the window frame. Lay aside until
the fuselage is complete.
15.Before assembling the sides, it will be
necessary to cut and “crack” them at the
proper place. With one side laying on a flat
surface, and the outside facing up, use a
razor saw to make a cut in two places.
Make a cut in FS2 at the rear edge of the
doorjamb and in line with it. Now make a
cut in FS3 along the same line. Cut about
3/4 to 7/8 of the way through. Do this
carefully. Now lay the cut over a sharp edge
on the bench, hold, and bend it down until
you hear it crack. Now do the other side
16.Taper the tail post, on the inside of each
side. A 1/8” x 3/4” taper should do it. The
sides are now ready to assemble.
17.Before joining the sides some more
preparatory work is required. Cut out the
JG1 and JG2 pieces from laser cut sheet 8.
Cut 4 pieces of 1/4” sq. balsa , 2” long. Glue
each in a notch at the ends of the JG1’s.
Make sure they are square with JG1 in both
directions.
18. Locate (4) R1 on laser cut sheet 5 and
Cut them out. Laminate two with white glue,
align and weight down until cured. Now
laminate two more.
19.Get some of the parts together required
to assemble the fuselage sides. Cut out F1
and LG1 from sheet 10. F2, FT3, and FB1
from sheet 8. FB2 from sheet 12, and TW1
from sheet 1. You will also need the FT1
and FT2 you assembled earlier along with
several sticks of 1/4” sq. balsa.
20.Lay down the top view of the fuselage
plan on a flat surface. Place the JG1 feet in
the location shown on the plans. Pin them in
place making sure the centerline on JG1 is
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on the centerline drawn on the plan. Cut
two sets of rear fuselage cross braces from
the top view of the plans and set them aside.
21. Place the small notch on the fuselage
side, in FS3, in the notch on JG1. Now do
the same with the other side. Place the two
JG2 at the top, over FS1, to hold the sides
somewhat square. It will be necessary to
weight the fuselage sides in front so that
they will sit firmly in the two JG1’s.
22. Using a square, make sure the sides
are perpendicular to the building surface.
Now epoxy in FT1 and FT2 assemblies. The
FT2 assembly is centrally located in the
notches with the ends flush with the straight
sides on FS1. . Note: Do to the fact that
1/8” lit-ply is not 1/8” thick, it will be
necessary to face the front side of the
front wing joiner box with 1/16” balsa to
locate it properly.
23. Find FB1 and glue a 1/4” sq length of
balsa on one edge, trimming it flush on both
ends. When cured, glue it in on the
centerline of the rear doorjamb and flush
with the bottom fuselage longeron.
24. Locate FB2 and glue a length of
1/4”balsa on the fore and one on the aft
surface, on one side, flush with the edge.
When cured glue in flush with the top edge
of FS2 and against FB1. The ¼” sq. pieces
are facing down.
25. Glue in the 1/4” sq. balsa cross brace
top and bottom and the diagonal braces on
the top side from the TE of the wing aft.
26. Find the FG1 gussets on the laser cut
sheet 13 and glue them on each joint as
shown on the top view. Note that they are
set in from the edge of the longeron 1/8”.
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When fuselage is fully cured, lift it and turn
over to bottom side.
27. Glue in the 1/4” sq. diagonals on the
bottom side. Now glue on the FG1’s on the
bottom side. Note how they are modified
around the bottom hatch opening. They can
be easily cut with scissors.
28. Now glue on the laminated R1 to both
sides of the fuselqge. Use DB1 and DB2 to
align them in place. Be careful not to glue
them in. Clamp the R1 to the fuselage until
cured.
29. Locate and glue in the WR1’s on
eachside. They should be flush with the
bottom of R1 and against the fuselage side.
Sanding to fit may be necessary here
because of building tolerances. Now add
the 3/32” x 1/4” balsa fill on top at the end.
30, Before sheeting the sides sand the
reardoor jamb surface in the same plane as
the aft fuselage sides. Use a sanding bar
with very little sanding required.
31. Locate FS4, FS5, and FS6 on sheet 9A
and cut them out. Also cut out the 2- FS7
window frames on sheet 9. Glue them on
the fuselage side where located on the
plans.
32. Find two 3/16” x 3” x 30” balsa sheets.
Using one cut a length 6-1/2” long. Glue this
piece on the upper forward end of the
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fuselage. Hold in place with pins or tape.
Now cut a 16” length and temporarily pin in
place below the first sheet. Mark the door-
opening outline on the backside. Draw a
line marking the front edge of the rear
doorjamb. Now remove the sheet and cut
out the door opening. Make a saw cut on
the doorjamb line and “crack” it over a sharp
edge. Now glue in place.
33. Use the last piece of the sheet to fill in
the space below the window frame using the
same method as described above.
34. Locate the 3/16” x 3/4” x 24” balsa
stick. Cut into two 12” lengths. Glue one on
the very bottom to complete the side
sheeting. Now sheet the other side as
described above.
35. Locate the (8) 3/16” x 36” stringers.
Install them on the sides first, then the top
and bottom last. Locate their position,
using a pair of dividers, transferring the
location from the plans to the airframe.
Inset them into the 3/16” sheet balsa in the
cabin area as shown on the plans. At the aft
end, butt glue them to the upright allowing
half of the stringer to stick up beyond the
surface. Notch out the diagonal so the lower
stringer can be butt glued the same way.
They will be sanded down later on.
36. Locate a 3/16” x 1/2” x 24” balsa stick.
Cut 2 lengths 9-3/4” long and glue them on
top of the FT1 and FT2 assy. Now sand
them to the wing root rib profile.
37. Find FT3 and glue it in place. The top
edge is flush with the root wing rib. Now
glue on FT4 at the tail. Glue on the top
3/16” sq. stringers. They should run in a
straight line between the two fore and aft
notches.
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38. When both the top stringers are
installed, sand a taper from the outer edge
of the stringer to the fuselage longeron, on
both sides. Now sand a taper from the front
edge down to the lower back edge FT4.
39. Now for the bottom stingers. Cut a
piece of 1/4” sq. spruce 10” long. Glue it to
LG1 5/8” forward of the rear edge. Mark the
location of the two stringers on LG1. CA
each stringer here first with it aligned
properly at the back. Now glue them in
place with thick CA. As before they butt
glue 3/32” below the surface leaving half the
stringer above. One diagonal in the rear
will have to be notched some to achieve
this.
40. With all the stringers installed, sand and
taper them down to the surface at the tail.
41. Cut out the stringers over the hatch area
on the bottom side. Save them for the hatch
cover.
42. Before installing F1 square up the
fuselage front end with a sanding bar. Also
find CW1 and cut out the 4 on sheet 11.
43. Lay down a piece of wax paper about
the size of F1 on a flat surface. Scrape the
inside of the square hole with a blade to
remove the charred wood. Lay F1 on the
wax paper and weight down. Epoxy a CW1
in each of the holes. Use a square to make
sure of perpendicularity. Note: the blind
nuts, retaining the engine mount, can be
installed at this time, otherwise install later.
44. Epoxy on F1 and hold it in place with
tape. Align it so the small notches at the top
are flush with the top rail. The sides should
be flush with the maximum curve height on
F1.
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45. Locate the 1/2” tri-stock and cut two

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pieces 5-1/2” long. Epoxy them in to brace
F1 with the fuselage sides. Make the ends
flush with the top longeron.
46. Epoxy on the ¼” sheet balsa front
bottom between F1 and LG1. When cured ,
add the front bottom ½” tri-stock bracing and
side bracing. Epoxy in the bracing over LG1
on both sides.
47. Before installing the stringers and
sheeting the top front, make up the fuel tank
support. Locate sheet 12 and cut out FU1,
FU2, and FU3. Assemble these parts
keeping the side’s straight and square.
Assemble it completely then install it.
Center it between the fuselage sides and
glue in place. Glue in small pieces of 3/8”
tri-stock at the front edge and bottom edge
on each side to help reinforce it.
48. Locate and cut out F2 from sheet 8.
Glue in place at the angle shown on the
plans.
49. Glue on the 1/4” sq. balsa front stringers.
Cut them a little long and trim them with a
razor saw when cured. Now sand them
flush at each end. 50. Locate a 1/8” x 3” x 24” sheet and cut to
length four 6” pieces. Using CA edge glue
one to the top longeron. Let it cure.
Hopefully it is not a hard piece. If so, wet it
with ammonia and water to help bend it.
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51. Apply thick CA to structure and bend
down. Hold until cured. Now do the other
side. CA in the rest of the sheeting, trim the
ends and sand flush.
52. On sheet 12 cut out the four SR1 and
the servo tray. Find and cut the 1/4” x 3/8” x
18” spruce mounting rails in two equal
lengths. Locate them as shown on the plans
gluing in the four SR1 pieces to support the
rails. Lay the servo tray aside until you are
ready to mount the servos.
53. Let’s build the hatch on the aft bottom
fuselage side. Find the 1/4” x 18” balsa
sheet and cut it in two. Edge glue the two
pieces together making a sheet size of 6” x
9”. Cut and fit it to the size of the hatch
opening allowing some clearance around
the edges.
53. Cut off 4 – 1-1/2” pieces from the 1/4” x
3/8” stock left over from the servo mount
rails. Locate and glue them in position
shown on the plan.
54. Place the hatch in the opening and glue
on the stringers, saved from step 37. Now
glue in the 3/16” x 1/2” balsa hatch ends.
Before tapering them down, as shown on
the plans, drill the 1/4” holes to mount the
hard points. Cut 4 pieces of 1/4” dowel 3/8”
long and glue the in, flush with the bottom of
the hatch. When cured, drill a 3/32” dia.
hole through the center of each dowel using
a drill press. Well, as close to the center as
you can get. Now taper down the top sides
as shown in the section on the plan.
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55. Although the photo of the finished
hatch does not show it, additional pieces of
3/16” x 1/2” balsa must be added to the
forward and aft edge of the hatch hole.
Taper them on the sides to match the hatch.

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56. Cut and fit 3/16” x ½” pieces and glue
them in between the stringers at the forward
and aft edge of the hatch hole. This is not
shown in the above photo but note on plans.
BUILDING THE SKYLIGHT
Building the skylight is very much like
building the doorframes. You will need to
shim the sides with pieces of scrap 1/32” ply
on all four sides, and tape them in place.
This will give the proper clearance needed.
1. Locate and cut out H1 and H2 on sheet
1 of the laser cut parts. Also cut out H4and
H3 on sheet 12. Scrape the char from the
edges to be glued.
2. Place each H1 against the root rib,
resting on FS2, shimming it out, and
centering it end to end. Tape in place to
hold.
3. Cut 1/4” sq. spruce the length of H3
and H4. Glue it to one edge of H3 and
likewise to H4. Note: H3 and H4 have been
made a little long so you will have to sand
the ends to fit them. Glue in, shimming
them out 1/32” and tape in place.
4. Find the center of the hatch and glue in
H2. You may have to sand and fit this
piece. Keep the top edges flush.
5. Turn the fuselage up-side-down and
glue 8” long 1/4” sq. spruce strips in the
forward and aft slots of the skylight. Glue
them to FT1 and FT2 only, being careful not
to glue the skylight in place. Make sure they
are down against the top 1/4” rail of the
skylight. When the skylight is removed add
more glue to the bottom edge of them
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6. Cut out the ER1 from sheet 1 and glue