Lanier R/C Stinger 60 User manual

LANIER R/C
Stinger 60
WARNING! THIS IS NOT A TOY!
THIS IS NOT A BEGINNERS AIRPLANE
This R/C kit and the model you will build from it is not a toy! It is capable of
serious bodily harm and property damage. It is your responsibility, and
yours alone - to build this kit correctly, properly install all R/C. components and
flying gear (engine, tank, radio, pushrods, etc. and to test the model and fly it
only with experienced, competent help, using common sense and in accordance
with all safety standards as set forth in the Academy of Model Aeronautics Safety
Code. It is suggested that you join the AMA and become properly insured before
attempting to fly this model. If you are just starting R/C modeling, consult your
local hobby dealer or write to the Academy of Model Aeronautics to find an
experienced instructor in your area.
Write to : Academy of Model Aeronautics, 5151 Memorial Dr, Muncie, IN 47302
LIMITED WARRANTY
Lanier R/C is proud of the care and attention that goes into the manufacture of parts for
its model kits. The company warrants that for a period of 30 days, it will replace, at the
buyers request, any parts or material shown to the company's satisfaction to have been
defective in workmanship or material at the time of purchase.
No other warranty of any kind, expressed or implied, is made with respect to the
merchandise sold by the company. The buyer acknowledges and understands that he is
purchasing only a component kit from which the buyer will himself construct a finished
flying model airplane. The company is neither the manufacturer of such a flying model
airplane, nor a seller of it. The buyer hereby assumes the risk and all liability for
personal or property damage or injury arising out of the buyers use of the components or
the finished flying model airplane, whenever any such damage or injury shall occur.
Any action brought forth against the company, based on the breach of the contract of
sale to the buyer, or on any alleged warranty thereunder, must be brought within one
year of the date of such sale, or there after be barred. This one year limitation is
imposed by agreement of the parties as permitted by the laws of the state of Georgia
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STINGER 60
BUILDING INSTRUCTIONS
The Stinger 60 is the fifth and final version in the Stinger series. It features the
very successful BFPP (balsa, foam, ply and plastic) system of construction
embraced by Lanier throughout this popular sports series; having fewer parts,
allowing for ease of assembly thereby promoting faster building and more flying
time.
The Stinger 60 has the same flight characteristics as its bigger brothers,
proportionally that is. When powered with a strong 60 engine you can expect
exceptional performance providing you keep the weight within the limits stated on
the plans. It can also be slowed down for that nice and easy landing. It is the
type of sport plane you can consider your everyday fly'in machine and not have
to worry about the time you spent putting it together. It didn't take that long.
We at Lanier are proud of our Stinger Series and know you will be happy with
your purchase. We thank you.
Before starting to build we urge you to read through these instructions while
reviewing the plans. They contain important instructions and warnings
concerning the assembly and use of this model. Some building tips have been
included along the way to help you out. Or, if you have your own way of building,
so be it. At least read what we have to say then make your own conclusion.
WING CONSTRUCTION
1. Remove the wing cores from their shells and inspect them. Don't worry about
left and right hand panels because the airfoil is symmetrical. Handle them
carefully. Split the trailing edge of the shell so that you have two pieces. Break
off the spar protrusion flush so the inside surface is free from any obstructions.
You will be using these shell halves during the construction of the wing.
2. Sand the surface of the panels lightly with 100 grit paper to remove any ridges
and irregularities you might find. Do not over sand.
3. Trial fit the 5/16" sq. spars in the grooves in the foam core. It is impossible for
us, because of wood and foam cutting tolerances, to make the spar fit perfect.
You will most likely find that the spars will fit tight and some re-working of the
groove will be necessary to make them fit. It is better to have them fit snug than
loose. Glue all four 5/16" sq. x 30" spars in place with white glue or Z-Poxy. Be
sure the wing core is on a flat surface when pushing the spars in place so as not
to induce a warp. Tip: Round off the lower corners slightly of each spar
before gluing them in place. They will be easier to push in the groove.
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4. Pick out the root end of each wing panel to be joined and layout, on the foam,
the notch in the leading edge. Also layout the the slot for the 3/16" ply wing
joiner W1. Note that the slot is cut back along the spars allowing W1 to tie in with
them. The dimensions are specified on the plans.
5. Cutting the notch and slot can best be done on a scroll or band saw. A hand
coping saw can be used if you are careful. Tip: Mount the wing core in its
shell and tape in place. This will hold it in a level position when cutting the
notch and slot allowing for a better fit against F2 in the fuselage.
6. Butt the wing panels together and trial fit W1 wing joiner. Check to see that
the trailing edge lines up. This may reguire some sanding. A two foot long
sanding stick with 100 grit paper is ideal for truing edges. Don't even think about
gluing the panels together yet.
7. Install a 5/16" sq. x 30" balsa stick on the trailing edge of each core. Use
white glue and hold it in place with masking tape. Make sure it is centrally
located. When cured block sand to conform with the airfoil. Note: it is
important to shape the trailing edge down so when the rear sheeting is
installed and sanded the total thickness at the trailing edge is 5/16"; the
same thickness as the aileron.
8. Lay a 3/32" x 2" x 30" balsa sheet flush with the trailing edge. Use the
opposite edge to draw a line from end to end. Apply contact cement in this area.
Also apply contact cement on one side of the 3/32" sheet. We recommend Sta'-
Put II Spray Adhesive especially formulated for Styrofoam. It is also water
resistant. When installing the sheet becareful to rest it on a flat surface!
Use this method to sheet all four trailing edge pieces.
9. Measure in 1/8" from the front edge of the wing spar. Strike a line the full
length of the wing panel on all four spars.
10. Apply contact cement in the area between the line on the spar and the
leading edge. Apply contact cement to one side of four 3/32" x 3" x 30" sheets.
When ready install each sheet by placing the edge on the line located on the
spar. Make sure you work on a flat surface while pressing the sheets in
place.
11. Trim off the excess sheet on the leading edge flush with the foam. A long
sanding stick will come in handy here. Glue the 3/8" x 7/8" x 30" leading edges
in place. If the stick is crowned do not try to straighten it when taping in place.
We have allowed extra width allowance on the leading edge. Use white glue and
hold it in place with masking tape until cured.
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12. Now is the time to decide whether you will use a servo on each aileron or
one single servo to drive them both. Both methods are shown on the plans. If
you are looking for a responsive, snappy performance by all means go for the
servo on each aileron. If not, skip the next step.
13. Determine the location of the servo well, on the bottom side of the wing, from
the plans. Measure in 15-11/16" from the wing root and strike a line
perpendicular to the leading edge. Layout the servo well from this line with the
front edge against the spar. Using a sharp X-acto knife and straightedge, cut as
deep as possible all the way around the well. With a flat blade screwdriver dig
out the well in depth until a servo fits properly. Layout, cut, and dig out in the
same fashion the 1/4" x 12" servo access lead slot. Now do the other wing
panel.
14. Install the 3/32 x 3/8" rib capping with white glue in position by measuring
from the plans. Do each wing panel on both sides. Add the 3/32" x 3/8" trim
around the servo wells.
15. Sand each wing tip smooth and flat. Place a wing panel on end and trace
the airfoil on the 1/8" sheet balsa. Cut out and glue in place. Now do the other
wing panel. Tip: When gluing on sheet balsa with white glue, dampen the
opposite side to prevent curling of the wood.
16. Plane and sand the leading edge to match that shown on the plans. Use the
long sanding stick to insure a true and straight edge.
17. Trim out the excess sheeting over the leading edge notch.
18. Sand the root end of each wing panel smooth and square. Squareness is
important. Just a slight amount out will cause sweep back or sweep forward
when the panels are joined. Trial fit to be sure the panels are in line with each
other. Once satisfied, apply 30 min Z-Poxy to wing roots and W1 and join the
panels on a flat surface. No dihedral is required. Tip: Place a strip of wax
paper in the center of one of the foam shells. Align the wing panels in the
center, apply epoxy to both mating surfaces and W1, and push together.
Use weights to hold the panels in position until epoxy has cured.
19. Glue W2 (1/8" x 1-1/4" x 3-1/4" lite ply die-cut) in place. It is installed on top
of the wing and not inset.
20. Cut to length and shape the ailerons from the 5/16" x 1-3/8" x 30" stock. Do
not shape the leading edge until the hinge holes are drilled.
21. Locate from the plans and drill the 1/8" dia. Hinge Point holes in the aileron
and wing trailing edge. Make sure each hole is perpendicular to the surface
ensuring them straight. Tip:Make a simple drill gage from a 5/16" sq.
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hardwood stick. Locate and accurately drill the hole locations for the
hinges in the center of the stick. Allow enough overlap on the end to
provide a stop block allowing the holes to be gaged from that end. Now
tape the gage securely, against the stop, to the wing trailing edge making
sure it is centered. Drill the holes. Next, remove and tape the gage to the
aileron leading edge and drill the 1/8" holes 3/4" deep. Remove the gage
and the holes should match perfectly. This same method can be used to
locate the hinge holes in the tail surfaces.
22. Now shape and sand the leading edge of each aileron. If you intend to use
only one servo to drive the ailerons install the strip aileron horn wires with Z-
Poxy. When cured cut the slots for the bearings and fit to wing.
23. Refer to the optional aileron hookup on the plans and locate and cut out the
aileron servo well. Once you cut thru the balsa and remove it, it is easy to dig out
the foam. Z-Poxy in the 1/4" sq. servo mounting rails flush with wing surface.
24. Final sand the wing and prepare it for covering. Set aside until fuselage and
tail surfaces are constructed.
TAIL GROUP
1. Sort through the 1/4" x 3/8" sticks and pick out the hardest pieces. Use these
for the trailing edge of the stab and the leading edge of the elevator. Lay out the
tail group plans and cover them with wax paper.
2. In order to manage the wood, use it in this manner: Start with the stab and
elevator outline. Pick out a 1/4" x 3/8" x 36" stick, cut to length and pin down the
stab trailing edge. Cut to length and pin down and glue in the trailing edge
reinforcement piece. This will leave you with a short piece for the right stab tip.
Using another 36" stick cut to length and pin down the leading edge and center
reinforcement piece. This will leave you with enough for the left tip of the stab
and elevator.
3. Using another 36" piece cut to length and pin down both elevator leading and
trailing edges. Pick out another 36" piece, cut to length and pin down the
elevator inside end pieces and the right tip. You should have a 36" and approx.
24" piece left for the fin and rudder. Measure carefully and make good square
joints for better strength.
4. Fit and glue in the 1/4" x 2-1/2" x 4" sheet stab center section. The 4"
dimension is slightly long and will have to be trimmed to fit. Fit and glue in the
3/16" x 1/4" ribs and diagonal braces. One 36" stick has been allowed for this.
5. Cut and glue in the 1/4" sq. hinge backup pieces from the 12" stick.
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6. Fit and glue in the 3/16" x 1/4" ribs and diagonal braces in both elevators
using a 36" stick. Cut, fit and glue in the control horn supports and the gussets
from the 1/4" x 3/4" x 8" piece. Add the 1/4" sq hinge backup pieces to complete
the elevators.
7. Now build the fin and rudder. Using the short piece of 1/4" x 3/8", left over
from building the elevators, cut to length and pin down the leading edge, trailing
edge and tip of the fin. Using a 36" stick, cut to length and pin down the rudder
leading, trailing edge, tip and bottom pieces to complete the outline. Fill in the
ribs and diagonal braces using a 3/16" x 1/4" x 36" stick. Glue in the 1/4" x 3/4"
control horn support and gusset with material left over from the 8" piece. Now
add the 1/4" sq. Hinge backup pieces. Locate and glue on the 1/8" x 1/4" x 10-
1/2" ply tail post to the fin. Measure carefully and make good square joints for
better strength.
8. Locate from the plans and drill the Hinge Point holes in the tail surfaces. As
stated in step 21. of the wing construction this can be done simply and accurately
with a drill jig.
9. Round off the leading edges, tips and trailing edges. Block sand the top and
bottom surfaces and prepare for covering. After final sanding Z-Poxy the fin to
the stab making sure it is square. Put the assembly aside until fuselage
construction is completed.
FUSELAGE CONSTRUCTION
1. Push out the fuselage sides FS1 from the diecut wood and clean up the
edges. You will need a LH and RH side so choose the side you want facing out.
2. Mark the locations of F2 and F3 inside on each fuselage side. Cut to length
and glue in place all the 3/8" tri-stock and 1/4" sq. pieces down the back top side
and tailpost. Allow room for F2 and F3. Leave some extra room behind F3 so
the sides can be bent sharply. Also leave room for F1 which will be installed
later.
3. Push out F2 and F3 from the diecut wood. Laminate two F2's with 5 min Z-
Poxy. When cured clean up and square edges.
4. Lay out fuselage side on a flat surface and Z-Poxy F2 and F3 in place. Use a
square and make certain they are perpendicular to the side. When cured glue on
the other side. Weight it down and pull the tail together briefly to check
alignment. Again check to see that F2 is square with side and that both sides are
aligned.
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5. Score each side at the aft edge of F3. Bend each side inward until they
crack. This is to promote a sharp bend allowing a straight side from F3 to the tail
so the turtledeck will fit properly.
6. Next, pull the tail together. It will be necessary to sand off some of the 1/4"
sq. at the tail to match the plans. Tip: Using a thin piece of ply or metal,
cement some 100 grit paper on both sides. Holding the two sides in one
hand slide the double sided sanding stick in between and work it back and
forth while holding a slight amount of pressure on the sides. Sand enough
to match the plans and allow TW1 to fit. If done properly you should have a
good fit.
7. Z-Poxy the tail end together making sure there is no twist. Lay the fuselage
on a flat surface and check the tail post with a square. Push out two TW1's from
the diecut wood and laminate. Clean up edges and install with Z-Poxy.
8. Measure and cut the 1/4"sq. cross braces on the upper back of the fuselage.
Locate them from the plans. Add the 3/32" sheet to the bottom with the 36"
sheet supplied taking care not to displace the aft fuselage sides. Sheet all the
way back to the tail post.
9. Place the wing in the saddle on the fuselage. Pin it in proper alignment so
that it will not move. Match drill the dowel holes in the wing from F2 former. Use
a long 1/4" drill. Glue in the 1/4" wing-hold-down dowels. They should protude
from W1 no more than 5/16" with rounded ends.
10. Prepare F1 by laminating three F1's together. When cured clean up the
edges and layout and drill the engine mount holes. It is much easier to do this
before installing, enabling you to use a drill press.
11. Glue in F1 with Z-Poxy and the 1/4" x 3-3/4" x 9" ply bottom. Use Z-Poxy
here too. Add the rest of the 3/8" tri-stock where shown on the plans to complete
the front bracing. Pin the fuselage sides to F1, three places on each side with the
1/8" dowel supplied. Drill a 1/8" hole, apply glue to a short piece of dowel, drive in
flush with fuselage side.
12. Push out the two FS2's and FS3's from the diecut wood. Clean up the edges
and glue them in place between F2 and F3 on each side. Locate the FS3
location from the plans. Cut to length and glue in the two servo rails from the
1/4" x 3/8" x 7-1/2" piece
13. Locate and glue in HD1, 1/4" x 1-1/4" x 3-1/2" ply, wing hold-down with Z-
Poxy. Add the 1/4" sq. pieces on each end on the bottom side to reinforce it.
Make sure it is flush with the top surface of the fuselage. Pin the fuselage sides
to HD1, two places on each side, with the 1/8" dowel supplied.
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14. This completes the fuselage box. Rough sand it rounding off the sharp
corners, clean up any excess glue and lay it aside.
FITTING THE PLASTIC PARTS
Now is the time to fit the top plastic parts. The Tank Cover, Wing Cover and
Turtledeck. Start with the turtledeck. Notice the mold lines along each side and
on the forward end. Using a straightedge and sharp knife, score along the sides
and stab notch. Bend the plastic back and forth and it will break along the scored
lines. On the forward end it is best to use a drum sander on a Dremel Motor.
Clean off the excess material up to the mold line. Make sure the notch on either
side the front edge is according to plans.
1. Push out FT2 former from the diecut wood. Clean up the edges and glue in
place with CA glue. This will reinforce the front of the Turtledeck.
2. Pin or tack glue the stab and fin assy. in place. Trial mount the Turtledeck.
The front edge should be even with F3. It may be necessary to cut down the fin
fairing to make it fit properly. This is the only adjustment so do it carefully.
3. Fit the Tank Cover next. Trim to the mold lines as discussed above. Push
out FT1 from the diecut wood, clean up the edges and glue in place where
shown on the plans. Use CA glue.
4. Modify the plastic former as shown on the plans. Tack glue to the back
surface of the Tank Cover leaving just enough room for the Wing Cover material
thickness. Do this carefully for a good fit. Match drill the two 3/16" dowel holes
from the plastic former into FT1. Now carefully cut the former loose.
5. Next tape the Tank Cover and Turtledeck in place on the fuselage. Trim and
cut off the excess material on the Wing Cover to the mold lines. Lay a small
piece of wax paper over the rear surface of the Tank Cover. Pin the plastic
former in place by pushing two 3/16" dowels thru the holes and wax paper. Make
sure it positioned properly before going and further.
6. Spread CA glue along the top edge of the plastic former. Carefully position
the Wing Cover over it and hold in place until cured. Remove the Wing Cover
and wax paper. Temporarily mount the wing and trial fit the Wing Cover with it.
It will be necessary to do some trimming because of building tolerances. Don't
forget to add the plastic reinforcement pieces over the Wing Cover csrew
retaining holes. Cut these from scrap plastic. Glue in the two 3/16" dowels, as
shown on the plans, when satisfied with the fit at the front edge.
7. Trim off excess material on the canopy to the mold lines and fit it to the Wing
Cover. Set aside until painting is complete.
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LANDING GEAR
1. Find the center of each landing gear leg and drill a 5/16" hole 1/4" from each
end. Locate and drill a 5/64" hole 5/8" up from the center of the 5/16" hole in
each strut.
2. Measure back on the fuselage 4-7/16" from the front surface of F1. Using a
square draw a line across the fuselage.
3. Find the center of the landing gear mounting surface. Measure 1" out both
ways, in the center of the width, center punch and drill the landing gear mounting
holes with a #7 drill. (or 3/16").
4. Place the landing gear on the fuselage over the line drawn. Center it with the
sides and match drill the holes. Tip:Drill one hole and install the bolt to hold
the gear in place. Now align and drill the other.
5. Locate the wheel pants and remove the saw flashing from them. Make sure
the mating surfaces are flat by sanding them on a flat surface. Mate each half,
align and glue together with CA glue.
6. Cut out the wheel openings in each with rounded corners. Here again it is
best to use a Dremel Motor with a burring tool and drum sander. Reinforce the
inside seam of each pant with a strip of 2 oz glass cloth 1/2" wide. Use thin CA.
7. Push out the two WH1's from the diecut sheet and clean up the edges. Glue
a WH1 on the inside of the pant, centered with the wheel opening. Round off the
ends to fit the pant flange. Glue a WH1 on the opposite side of the other pant
making a LH and RH pant.
8. Remove the plastic under the slot in WH1 to form a contiuous slot in the
wheel pant side the same size as the slot in WH1. Now do the other pant.
9. With the landing gear mounted on the fuselage, prop it up to a level flight
position. Slide the slot in the pant down over the hex on the axle, holding it
against the strut making sure it is bottomed. Rotate the pant until it is level then
mark the retaining hole location using the small hole in the strut. Remove the
pant, drill and install a #6 "All Threads" insert. The "All Threads" insert is nothing
more than a specifically sized plastic tube that will provide a insert and locking
feature for the retainer screw. They are ideal for many applications, such as this.
Push out both WH2's and drill a 5/32" hole in the center of each. Mount the
axles on the struts. Slide the wheel pant, against the strut, down to the axle and
mark the axle, even with the inside wall of the pant. Now trim off the axle. Mount
the wheel pant with a retaining screw and slip a WH2 over the axle against the
outer wheel pant wall and CA in place. Careful not to glue the axle to WH2. Now
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remove the retaining screw and the wheel pant. Install the other WH2 on the
other pant using the same method.
TAILWHEEL MOUNTING
1. We show the Du-Bro tailwheel bracket no. 376 on the plans. Use the assy
instructions on the package to assemble it. Bend the 3/32" dia. strut as shown
on the plans. Place the control horn over it for added strength. Mount the bracket
to the fuselage with two #4 x 3/8" sht. mtl. screws.
ENGINE COWL
1. The engine cowl is made in two halves. The upper half fits over the lower
half by 1/2". Temporarily tape them together and tack glue with CA. Remove the
tape and finish gluing.
2. Check the plans for the cutouts in the front. If you are not using a Pitts style
muffler as we have shown, you will need a different cutout in the bottom. All of
the engine heads will protrude from the cowl; muffler and needlevalve holes will
also be required.
3. Mount the engine and measure from the firewall to the back plate of the
spinner, then add 5/8". This will be the length of the cowl. Trim off the back
edge of the cowl. Temporarily mount on fuselage and locate all the other
required holes. Some forward and aft adjustment can be made afterwards when
final mounting to the fuselage.
FINISHING THE PLASTIC PARTS
1. We found it best to finish and paint the plastic parts before installing them on
the airplane that is, if the trim design you chose is not intregal with the lower half
of the fuselage. Sand each part with 3-M Scotch Brite or 150 grit paper to get rid
of the glaze. Clean with rubbing alcohol and wipe with paper towel. Tack off with
a tack rag. Apply primer to fill the minute scratches and imperfections. Sand
with 600 paper. Now paint them with your favorite model paint. CA a stick
temporarily to the inside of each part to hold it while panting. We recommend the
following paints for compatibility with our plastic: 21st Century, Formula U,
Perfect Paint, K&B Superpoxy and Hobbypoxy.
2. Once you have completed painting, set all the parts aside.
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