Shanty 2 CHIC Modern Farmhouse Table User manual

Modern Farmhouse Table
ou'll be dining in style with this sophisticated and substantial take on a rustic classic.
Clean lines add a modern look and it can be nished in any number of ways to match your interior.
The best part? A few pieces of builder grade lumber with the rounded edges ripped off and
no one will know you made it yourself... that is unless you can't wait to brag you did.
Y
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84"
29"
FRONT SIDE
40"

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84"
74"
74"
30"33 ½"
33 ½"
2" x 6" x 8'
2" x 6" x 8'
2" x 3" x 8'
2" x 3" x 8'
2" x 3" x 8'
CUT LIST
Make sure you read through the instructions carefully and take notice of any special
construction notes prior to making any cuts. And always practice safe DIY’ing. Have fun!
PLEASE NOTE - many pieces may require you to cut them to t a certain size
while you are building it. Its best not to cut pieces until you need them. Take
your time and study all the diagrams.

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Material Qty
2” X 6" X 8’ wall stud 8
2” x 3" x 8’ wall stud 5
NOTES
MATERIALS LIST
Material Qty
2-½” pocket screws
2-½” brad nails
5" x 5" x 29" Square Table Leg 4
wood glue
Square Contemporary Dining Table Leg
Part #:2290003000
https://www.osbornewood.com/2290003000.aspx

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74"
1 ¾"
1 ½"
5 ½"2 ½"
5"2"
1 ½"1 ½"2 x 3 2 x 6
A
2
33 ½"
14"14"14"
14 ¾"14 ¾"
3
29"
1 ¾"
1 ½"
30"
1.
To help give this table a more rened look begin by ripping o the
rounded edges of the wall studs. You will be ripping o ¼" from
both edges. You will be taking a 2x3 that is 2-½" wide and making
it 2" wide. And for the 2x6 you will be going from 5-½" wide and
making it 5" wide. Do this to all the lumber for this project.
NOTE: Attach all the apron boards 1-½" down from the top of
the square legs to leave room for the top planks in steps 4 and 5.
Now construct two leg assemblies. Drill 1-½" pocket holes into the
ends of the 30" apron boards. Attach with wood glue and 2-½"
pocket screws.
2.
Now attach the two leg assemblies to each other. Drill 1-½"
pocket holes into the ends of the 74" apron boards. Attach with
wood glue and 2-½" pocket screws, making sure all pocket screw
holes face inwards and the long apron boards match the shorter
apron boards by locating them 1-½" down from the top.
3.
Next we will attach the cross braces that will give this table extra
rigidity. Drill 1-½" pocket holes into the ends of the 33-½" cross-
brace boards. Attach with wood glue and 2-½" pocket screws,
spaced out as shown. Make sure they are ush with the top of
the long apron boards.
X 2
1

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10"
10"
5"
5"
84"
74"
5
¾"
¾"
¾"
¾"
4.
To attach the top planks begin with the middle two boards. Cut
them to t so that they are ush with the outer edges of the
square legs, which should be 84". Inset them from the square
legs according to the illustration above. Attach with wood glue
and clamp in place. Drive 2-½" brad nails from underneath; the
brad nails should go through the apron and cross-brace boards
into the top planks.
Repeat with the remaining four 84" planks.
5.
Now nish with the shorter top planks. Cut them to t snug
between the square legs, this should be 74".
For extra stability we will be using pocket screws in addition to
the brad nails. Drill 1-½" pocket holes into the ends as shown
above. Make sure you pay attention to placement as they have to
go around the apron boards that are already in place.
Attach with wood glue and clamp in place. Drive 2-½" brad
nails from underneath; the brad nails should go through the
apron board into the top planks.
Drive 2-½" pocket screws through the ends into the square legs.
Sand the table to the desired smoothness and nish to your
liking.
4