Cannondale Jekyll User manual

Congratulations and thanks for purchasing the world’s newest, most

innovative, and most adjustable full suspension design, the Cannondale

Jekyll. Please take a moment to read and understand this supplement

and the other literature included with the bike, including the Cannondale

Bicycle Owner’s Manual and the HeadShok specific supplement. These

will provide important safety warnings and performance tips which will

make for many miles of safe, high output riding pleasure. If you have any

questions about your frame or the contents of this manual, don’t hesitate

to contact us. See the back page for phone numbers and E-mail contacts.

Your Cannondale Jekyll should have also included a standard owner’s

manual and a front suspension specific manual. If you did not receive

both the Cannondale Bicycle Owner’s Manual and the HeadShok owner’s

manual, please download and print one from the Cannondale website

Tech Center or call our customer service line at 1-800-BIKE-USA in

the U.S. or Canada to have one sent to you.

Please note that this manual is meant to supplement, not to replace, the

Cannondale Bicycle Owner’s Manual. The owner’s manual contains valu-

able information regarding safe operation, adjustment, and maintenance

of your bicycle, as well as more complete warranty information. Please

read the Cannondale Bicycle Owner’s Manual thoroughly before riding

your bicycle, and keep it and this booklet for future reference.

Because the Jekyll bicycles are so unique, there are some important facts

and warnings of which you need to be aware. The warnings are written as

appropriate throughout this manual. Please read and heed all warnings,

the information is here for your benefit.

CANNONDALE®JEKYLLTM OWNER’SMANUAL

JEKYLL FEATURES

The Jekyll pairs one of two lightweight aluminum swingarms with an

all-new welded aluminum front triangle. A threaded, pivoting collar is

used as the attachment point for the rear shock. By threading the shock

absorber fore or aft within the collar, a rider can quickly change the

bike’s geometry and handling characteristics. Positioning the shock

absorber farther forward, for example, lowers the bottom bracket height

and slackens the head and seat tube angles, making the bike perfect

for high speed descending. Threading the shock farther back raises the

bottom bracket and steepens the angles for quicker handling and more

cross-country oriented riding. The shock is also fully adjustable to

positions between the fully forward and fully aft limits, offering an

incredible range of adjustability and ride tuning. The rear wheel

travel on the Jekyll is a full 120mm, regardless of where the shock

is positioned in the collar. Some Jekyll models use Fox rear shocks

equipped with compression adjusters which can be used to stiffen

the rear suspension for a more race-oriented ride.

COMPONENT COMPATIBILITY AND PRECAUTIONS FOR ALL JEKYLL

MODELS

PIVOTING SHOCK MOUNT COLLAR

The Jekyll uses a pivoting collar above the bottom bracket to secure the

rear shock to the frame’s front triangle. The two bolts which secure the

collar to the frame should be kept tight to 150 In-Lbs (17 Nm). If these

bolts are removed, you should apply one drop of Loctite 242 (blue) to

the bolt threads inside the collar before reinstalling and tightening the

attaching bolts. Make sure not to get any Loctite through the collar onto

the shock adjustment threads, nor any on the frame’s pivot bushings.

The frame bushings on which the collar bolts pivot should never be

greased or oiled. They are Teflon®coated and need no lubrication.

Additionally, some lubricants may deteriorate or destroy the coating.

Should your pivot bushings be damaged or wear out, they can

be replaced by your local Authorized Cannondale Retailer.

FORKS

The new Cannondale Jekyll frame is compatible with all in-headtube type

HeadShok forks (such as the Fatty, Fatty Ultra, and Super Fatty) and the

single sided Lefty fork. Using any fork other than those listed here could

lead to frame or fork failure, and will void your warranty.

WARNING: Jekyll frames were not designed to use forks other than those

manufactured, tested, and approved by Cannondale. If you do so you may

break, damage, or shorten the life of the Cannondale frame, with result-

ing risk of injury or death to the rider. If you do so you will also void your

Cannondale frame’s warranty.

HEADSET

The Jekyll’s head tube is designed to accept HeadShok forks and Head-

Shok headset cups only.

FRONT DERAILLEUR

All Jekylls require a standard “bottom-pull”type front derailleur with a

31.8mm clamp diameter. Because the front derailleur mounts to the rear

swingarm, and has a limited range of vertical adjustment, some derailleur

designs (such as Shimano “Top Swing”derailleurs) are not compatible.

CRANKSET / BOTTOM BRACKET

Like all Cannondales, the Jekyll bottom bracket shell is 68mm wide and

has English threads. Proper bottom bracket spindle length depends on

the crankset being used. Use whatever length spindle is recommended

by the crank manufacturer, providing the proper clearance between the

crankarms and the frame is maintained.

CAUTION: DO NOT MACHINE (OR “FACE”) EITHER THE HEADTUBE

OR THE BOTTOM BRACKET SHELL. THESE SURFACES ARE ACCU-

RATELY FACED AT THE FACTORY SO THIS TRADITIONAL FRAME

PREPARATION STEP IS NOT NECESSARY, AND COULD DAMAGE

THE FRAME.

CHAINRING SIZE LIMITATIONS

The design of the Jekyll’s swingarms limit the maximum usable chainring

size to 46 teeth. Use of any larger chainring may damage the swingarm or

result in contact between the front derailleur cage and the large chainring.

SWINGARM PROTECTOR

The swingarm on your Jekyll is made of thin wall aluminum tubing and

some CNC-machined aluminum parts. To protect the CAAD 4 swingarm

(found on some Jekyll models) from damage inflicted by the chain slap-

ping against the chainstay, we have supplied a self-adhesive vinyl pro-

tector for the swingarm. This protector should be applied to the top of the

right (drive side) chainstay, near the chain. Please inspect this protector

frequently. If the protector becomes damaged, abraded, or peels off, it

should be replaced to prevent damage to the swingarm. To obtain a new

swingarm protector, see an Authorized Cannondale Retailer. The elevated

(bonded) swingarm found on other Jekyll models doesn’t have a tradition-

al “chainstay”, but the protector can be applied to the bottom of the drive

side to protect the paint from chain slap.

ALTERNATIVE BRAKES

Hydraulic and disc brakes are a popular upgrade on many suspension

bicycles. When selecting a hydraulic brake system for your Jekyll, choose

one that mounts to the frame using only the existing cantilever brake

studs or disc brake caliper mounts. Do not attempt to modify the existing

cantilever brake studs or to clamp, weld, or to in any other way add new

or different mounts for a hydraulic brake or disc brake. Any attempt to

modify the frame, swingarm, fork, or related components will void the

warranty and may weaken or damage the frame. For installation instruc-

tions and other warnings, refer to the literature provided by the brake’s

manufacturer. The mounts on the Jekyll’s swingarm and fork are designed

to fit a CODA Compact Disc Brake caliper. Other brands of disc brakes

which conform to the international mounting standard may fit as well.

MAINTAINING THE APPEARANCE OF YOUR JEKYLL FRAME

To keep your Jekyll frame looking its best, we recommend cleaning it

regularly with mild soap and water. Regular cleaning will minimize the

chances of corrosion. Do not use abrasive cleansers or solvents. Jekyll

frames have a thin coating of clear paint over the whole frame (includ-

ing the decals.) A coating of wax can be applied if desired.

JEKYLL GEOMETRY ADJUSTMENT

The adjustable geometry of the Jekyll frame allows for a maximum head

tube angle of 71 degrees with a corresponding bottom bracket height of

13.5 inches (34.3cm) with the shock threaded fully aft in the pivoting

collar. At the other end of the range of adjustment, the minimum head

tube angle is 69.5 degrees with a corresponding bottom bracket height

of 12.9 inches (32.8cm) with the shock threaded fully forward in the

collar. To most easily adjust the geometry, use the following procedure.

1. Loosen the lockring on the shock body, located just in front of the

frame’s pivoting collar, by turning it counter-clockwise (when viewed

from the front of the bike) using a Park red pin spanner tool.

2. Unscrew and remove the bolt which connects the rear of the shock

to the rear swingarm. This will require a 10mm open or closed end

wrench and a 5mm hex wrench. Once the bolt is removed, pivot the

swingarm down and the rear of the shock up so that the two don’t touch.

3. Spin the shock body clockwise (when viewed from the front of the

bike) within the pivoting collar to steepen the angles and raise the bot-

tom bracket simultaneously, or spin the shock body counter-clockwise

to slacken the angles and lower the bottom bracket simultaneously. You

must position the blue compression lever on Fox FLOAT RC shocks in line

with the shock body to most easily adjust the shock position.

4.Once the shock position is set, align the bolt holes in the rear shock

mount and the swingarm, and reinstall the shock mounting bolt. Using

the 10mm open or closed ended wrench and the 5mm hex wrench,

tighten the shock mounting bolt to 106 In-Lbs (12 Nm).

5. Once the shock is set to the desired position and the swingarm has

been reattached, secure the shock in place by tightening the lock ring

against the pivoting collar using a Park red pin spanner. Tighten the lock

ring firmly to prevent the shock from migrating in the collar’s threads.

NOTE: After making the geometry adjustment, you may want to change

the angle and/or position of your saddle to maintain optimal comfort and

your desired riding position.

CAUTION: IF YOU STEEPEN THE BIKE, MAKE SURE THAT THE FRONT

DERAILLEUR DOESN’T INTERFERE WITH THE CHAINRING TEETH.

SEE THE FOLLOWING PARAGRAPH ABOUT FRONT DERAILLEUR

ADJUSTMENT.

FRONT DERAILLEUR ADJUSTMENT—VERY IMPORTANT!

The Jekyll’s rear suspension design places the front derailleur on the rear

swingarm. This arrangement requires very precise adjustment of the front

derailleur. Additionally, the adjustability of the Jekyll’s geometry means

that the front derailleur adjustment must be checked whenever changing

the rear shock position. The front derailleur should be adjusted with the

shock positioned as far aft as possible. That is, the frame should be at it’s

steepest, tallest position before adjusting the front derailleur. See Fig. 1.

Once the rear shock is set to its most aft position, adjust the front

derailleur so that the derailleur cage is approximately 1mm above the

large chainring when there is no weight on the bike (see Fig. 2). The rear

end of the derailleur cage will rock up and away from the chainrings as

the suspension is compressed or as the geometry is changed to a slacker,

lower position.

The front derailleur can be adjusted to the 1mm clearance above the large

chainring at any point in the range of geometry adjustability. However, if

the geometry is then adjusted to a more steep, tall setup (with the shock

further aft in the mounting collar), the front derailleur will have to be

readjusted or it will catch on the chainring teeth.

CAUTION: IF THE JEKYLL’S REAR SHOCK IS MOVED TO A MORE

REARWARD POSITION IN THE FRAME’S PIVOTING COLLAR, THE

FRONT DERAILLEUR POSITION MUST BE CHECKED BEFORE RIDING.

IF THE FRONT DERAILLEUR CATCHES ON THE CHAINRING TEETH,

YOU COULD DAMAGE OR DESTROY YOUR FRONT DERAILLEUR. YOU

ALSO RISK A SERIOUS CRASH, WHICH COULD CAUSE INJURY OR

DEATH. IF YOU DO NOT UNDERSTAND THE ABOVE PROCEDURE FOR

ADJUSTING THE FRONT DERAILLEUR, PLEASE SEE YOUR

AUTHORIZED CANNONDALE RETAILER.

1mm

Fig.1 ▼

Fig.2 ▲

Note Threads

SHIFTING PRECAUTIONS / CHAIN LENGTH

The chain on a Jekyll must be kept long enough to prevent damage to the

rear derailleur when the rear shock is at its most forward position and the

rear suspension compresses to its full travel with the chain on the large

chainring and one of the larger rear cogs. See Fig. 3 for the correct shock

position in which to set the chain length. Remember that on any bicycle,

the gearing combinations of the smallest front chainring / smallest rear

cog, and the largest chainring / largest rear cog should never be used.

These gear combinations (called “cross chaining”) place undue stress on

the chain, chainrings, derailleurs, and rear cogs. Duplicate or similar gear

ratios can be achieved in other combinations using the middle chainring.

CABLE ROUTING

The cables on the Jekyll must be routed correctly to ensure proper oper-

ation of the derailleurs and brakes, and to prevent the cable housing from

being pinched when the rear suspension is compressed. Also, be sure to

use lengths of cable housing which will not impede steering control and

will not contact wheels or tires. Based upon the type of swingarm on the

Jekyll you have purchased, see the appropriate section below for cable

installation instructions.

Fig.3 ▼Note Threads

CAAD4 SWINGARM EQUIPPED JEKYLL

FRONT BRAKE

Run hydraulic line directly from the front brake lever to the front brake.

If equipped with a Lefty, the hydraulic tubing should not go through the

clamps, but rather to the outside of the Lefty leg and behind to the disc

brake. See Fig. 4. Note that the zip tie loops need to be loose enough to

allow the hydraulic brake line to slide freely up and down. If equipped

with a Fatty, Ultra, or Super Fatty fork, the tubing from the front brake

lever should be directed behind the shock boot and down the back of

the left fork leg to the disc brake. See Fig. 5.

Fig.4 ▼Fig.5 ▼

Front

Brake

Line

Front

Brake

Line

10.

REAR BRAKE

Run the hydraulic tubing from the rear brake lever to the lower slots in

the double housing stops on the left side of the down tube. Secure the

hydraulic line in the aluminum guides with the supplied plastic guide

clips. Then run the hydraulic line outside the vertical strut and under

the clamp just above the swingarm pivot (see Fig. 6). The tubing

should then be run directly to the rear brake, inside the seat stay.

FRONT DERAILLEUR

Run cable housing from the front shifter to the housing stop on the right

side of the downtube. Run exposed cable to the housing stop a the lower

end of the downtube. Run cable housing (approx. 32cm.) from this down-

tube stop, under the bottom bracket, and to the housing stop on the

swingarm just behind the rear suspension pivot. Be sure to leave enough

slack in this piece of housing to allow for the movement of the swingarm.

It is easiest to first position the housing into the stop on the swingarm,

and then to run the cable through the housing and out the hole towards

the front derailleur.

Fig.6 ▲

Rear Brake

Rear Derailleur

11.

REAR DERAILLEUR

Run cable housing from the rear shifter to the upper slot in the double

housing stop on the left side of the downtube. Insert the included plastic

cable stops in each of the top through guides, with the large openings

facing out towards the cable housing, away from the center of the down

tube. Run exposed cable down to the lower housing stop on the left side

of the downtube (see Fig. 6). Run cable housing from this stop, under

the rear shock and the seat area, across to the housing stop on the right

side of the swingarm. Run bare cable to the rearward housing stop on the

swingarm. Run cable housing from the rear housing stop on the swingarm

to the rear derailleur.

ELEVATED (BONDED) SWINGARM EQUIPPED JEKYLL

FRONT BRAKE

For front disc brakes: Run hydraulic line directly from the front brake

lever to the front brake. If equipped with a Lefty, the hydraulic tubing

should not go through the clamps, but rather to the outside of the Lefty

leg and behind to the disc brake. See Fig. 4. If equipped with a Fatty,

Ultra, or Super Fatty fork, the tubing from the front brake lever should

be directed behind the shock boot and down the back of the left fork

leg to the disc brake. See Fig. 5.

For V-type front brakes: Run cable housing directly from the front brake

lever to the front brake cable “noodle”.

REAR BRAKE

Run the hydraulic tubing or cable housing from the rear brake lever to

the upper slots in the double housing stops on the left side of the down

tube. Secure hydraulic line in the aluminum guides with the supplied

plastic guide clips -or- secure cable housing in the aluminum guides

with the supplied plastic cable stops, with the large openings facing out

towards the cable housing, away from the center of the down tube. Then

run the hydraulic line or brake cable housing inside the vertical struts up

to the top surface of the swingarm (see Fig. 7). The cable housing should

be directed to the V-type brake cable “noodle”. Disc brake tubing should

be run through the guide under the left cantilever brake stud and directly

to the rear disc brake.

12.