Eco-Smart SunTrackerTwo User manual

CIRALIGHT INSTALLATION MANUAL Page 1
SunTrackerTwo Preparation
Cutting Holes and Preparing Curbs
T.G.I
Or
Truss
Eco-$mart, Inc.
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Cutting Holes and Preparing Curbs
To determine roof location of skylight curbings, consult architects drawings
and proceed:
Before cutting or drilling through a roof, it is the responsibility of the contractor
to ensure that there are no obstructions above or below the roof.
1. From the underside of the roof, locate the first bay (area between trusses)
that will contain skylights. Locate the position of the first skylight within
this bay by measuring off the nearest adjacent wall. The exact center of the
skylight should be positioned along a center line between the trusses. Drill
your first hole here completely through roof.
2. At the opposite end of the same bay, find the center of the last skylight in
this row (keeping uniform spacing between each skylight). Drill your second
hole here completely through the roof.
3. From on top of roof, snap a chalk line between the two drilled holes. This
will establish the center line for all skylights in this row (and will keep them
centered between the trusses below). Repeat this process in each bay that is
to contain next skylights.
4. You can now proceed with cutting the holes in the roof (making and using a
461/2’ template, can be very helpful).
5. Cut away (soft) existing roofing material and install curbing directly on a
hard surface.
6. The finished curb must be securely fastened to the roof. See details A, B, C
for suggested method for metal, wood or concrete roofs. (See page 5)
7. New flashing and waterproofing to the roof shall be done following
accepted practices and consistent with existing conditions.
8. Contractor will provide a temporary watertight cover to remain in place until
SunTackerOne installation is made.
The SunTrackerTwo light wells require an unobstructed opening (that is the inside
diameter of the curb) which extends from the top of the curb to the bottom of it’s
lowest lens (often a pyramid shape that can add additional length to the light well).
Standard issue light wells are two feet in length. But, depending on the height of the
drop ceiling, custom light wells can be as long as eight feet.
There should be no intrusion into this space by water pipes, duct work, electrical
conduit, etc.
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BEFORE ROOF CUTS ARE MADE, CONTRACTOR WILL DETERMINE IF ADDITIONAL
ROOF REINFORCING IS REQUIRED & INDICATE SAME ON INSTALLATION DRAWING
Template for Roof Openings
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1. Use (nominal) 48” quality pressure
treated lumber, 2x8 2x10 or 2x12, as needed.
2. Curbs must be 8” minimum on the high side
of the roof.
3. Top of the curbs must be level and plum.
(All the way to the bottom of the light well.)
4. All corners must be square.
5. Curb should measure 65 3/4” across the
inside diagonal (inside corner to inside
corner).
Building the Curb
Please Note:
On a slanted roof, the low side of the curb
will need to be taller than the high side so
as to maintain a level top to the installed
curb. (see diagram)
Metal curb can be substituted for wood.
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PRE-DRILL PILOT HOLES FROM UNDERNEATH THE DECK AND
ATTACH THE CURB USING 3” - #10 HEX HEAD SCREWS
TOE-NAIL NEW CURBING TO EXIST. WOOD. IF UNDER-
ROOF WOOD BLOCKING IS USED, INSTALL 9” OR 12” GALV.
STRAPPING (AS SHOWN)
MUST USE PRESSURE TREATED LUMBER (OR PREFAB SHEET
METAL) FOR CURBS. USE SMALL CLIP ANGLES FASTENED WITH
EXPANSION BOLTS TO ANCHOR CURBS TO CONCRETE
A
B
Metal
Roof
Wood
Roof
Concrete
Roof
Attaching Options for Different Roof Types
Securely fasten curb(s) to the roof bracing structure to give it strength and support
for the unit (dome, light well and lenses).
Attachment of curbs should meet with all building codes and requirements.
If roof curbs require additional reinforcing at any opening, such details will be indicated
and must be signed off by building owner.
IF UNDER-ROOF
BLOCKING IS USED
SECURE CURBING
(TO NEW BLOCKING)
W 1 1/4” GALV. STRAPPING
MIN. (2) EACH SIDE
INDICATE
ROOF PITCH
CRICKET
(IF REQ’D)
8” MIN
MAINTAIN TOP OF CURB
TRUE PLUMB AND LEVEL
TOP SURFACE TO BE SMOOTHED
TYPICAL (4) SIDES
NEW WOOD CURB
CUT FROM 2X8
OR LARGER
1” FROM TOP
EXTEND
FLASHING
FLASHING
(4) SIDES
TOP OF
ROOF
UNDERNEATH
EXSIST. ROOF
46 1/2” (4) SIDES
MAINTAIN CLEAR
ALL THE WAY DOWN
Attaching Curb to Roof
C
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SunTrackerTwo Installation
DIFFUSER LENS
(PYRAMIND)
LENS SUPPORT ANGLE
INTEGRATED WITH LIGHT WELL
LIGHT
WELL
CURBING
(INSULATION PER ENERGY
CODE REQUIREMENTS)
FINISHED
ROOF
DIFFUSER LENS
(FLAT)
SKYLIGHT
DOME
CONTROL UNIT ASSEMBLY WITH SOLAR
CELL
MIRROR/MIRROR BRACKET
SKYLIGHT FRAME w/ FLAT LENS
Eco-$mart, Inc.
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SunTrackerTwo Installation
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Make sure light wells have been properly installed before proceeding to this stage.
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Tray assembly, as it is shipped.
The Mirror, short vertical post and the mirrors mounting
bracket, are shipped within the tray assembly.
It is not recommended to do an installation of the
SunTracker Two during high wind conditions. Even in
light wind conditions, care should be taken so that the
mirrors and trays are not damaged by a sudden gust.
Remove Mirror from tray assembly.
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Taking care so as not to bend the mirror,
peel off the protective tape from the reflective
surface (there is tape only on the reflective side
of the mirror).
Run the pre-attached bolts of the mirrors mounting
bracket through the two holes in the mirror. Make sure
the mounting bracket is positioned as shown, and that
it is on the reflective side of the mirror (the bend at the base of the mirror faces away from the
reflective surface). Attach two black plastic nuts (provided) to the bolts and hand tighten.
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SunTrackerTwo Installation
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Place the base of the
vertical post into the hole of
the horizontal support bar
and press down until the
two fit snug. (Make sure
the small set screw on the side of the horizontal support bar is backed
out far enough so as to allow the vertical post to seat down correctly).
While supporting the mirror, pass the
pre-attached bolts of the controller
(and the controllers shaft) through the
three holes in the mounting bracket.
Attach the two remaining black plastic
nuts to the bolts and hand tighten
(do not use a wrench). Please note
that the solar panel of the controller
faces away from the mirror. (The blue
controller is shipped in it’s own box)
Tighten the set
screw (on the side of the
horizontal support bar)
until it is just possible to
rotate the vertical post.
Rotate the vertical post
until the D-flat (see picture
with arrow pointing to
D-flat) is facing true south
(THIS IS IMPORTANT). Once the D-flat is facing true
south, tighten the set screw fully.
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Place tray assembly into position
(flange resting on top of curb)
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Affix dome to the curb by screwing
fasteners through the holes in the frame
(three per side). Recommended fasteners are
#10 hex head Zinc plated screws 1½ inches
long (fasteners are not provided).
When attaching fasteners, take care to drill straight in or slightly downward so
as not to penetrate the interior gutter system of the dome.
SunTrackerTwo Installation
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Line up the flat side of the controllers shaft
with that of the D-flat at the top of the vertical
post. Gently push down on the controller until the
shaft is completely inserted into the vertical post.
SLOWLY rotate the controller until the solar panel
(and mirror) is facing the sun. This will allow the
controller to charge properly.
IMPORTANT — Once the controller / mirror is
in place, care should be taken to not leave the
unit unattended as long as it remains uncovered.
Wind can cause the mirror to spin out of control,
possibly doing damage to the inner workings of
the controller. Cover the unit with the dome before
moving on to install other controllers.
Please note, the unit will need time to properly charge before any movement of the mirror takes place
(this charge time can vary depending on sunlight levels).
Place the dome over the mirror assembly making
sure it is seated down firmly on all sides of the curb.
(As a rule, two persons should be involved when
moving, or working with the dome).
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Light Well Assembly
and Installation
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This photo sequence is for one piece, non-adjustable light wells.
For two piece, (adjustables), see end of manual.
Eco-$mart, Inc.
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Light Well Assembly and Installation
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Remove protective film (if there is any)
Make sure the outward facing flange of each section (that will rest on the curb) is on the top, and
the inward facing flange (that will support the bottom lens) is on the bottom (doing a dry fit the first
time to see how the unit should look is recommended).
Before installing any light wells, make sure that all curbs are square over the hole, level at the top
and plum (the same inside diameter top to bottom), and that there are no obstructions intruding
into the space that the light well is to occupy.
If the sections come with pre-attached double-sided tape
for connecting the light well together, peel the outer cover
off the tape of one section.
Butt the flat side of another section into the corner of the
first (and over the tape) making sure the two sections are
even top and bottom before pressing together.
Some suppliers do not provide pre attached tape. If that is
the case, the contractor has the option of using #10, 1/2”
truss washer lath screws with neoprene bonded washer
(screwing from the outside in), or using their own double-
sided tape to connect the light well together.
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With the lower lens in place, lift the light well over the curb and allow it to slide down into place.
With the lower lens in place lift the light well
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Light Well Assembly and Installation
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Gently lower the bottom lens into place, and
seal lens into place with double-sided foam
tape or caulk.
On longer light wells, it is recommended that
the bottom lens be put into place from inside
the building after the light well is attached
(this may require a lift).
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Repeat this process with the remaining sections until all four sections are connected and
you have an open ended box with an outward facing flange on the top and an inward
facing flange at the bottom.
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Check that the well fits snugly onto the
top of the curb all the way around.
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If there is a need for longer light wells that must match up with drop ceilings, these light
wells will come in eight pieces per well as apposed to the four on standard versions.The
construction of these longer wells is similar to the shorter version.
When laying out the pieces, the upper four sections will have an outward facing flange at
their top (to rest on the curb) and no flange at the bottom.
The lower four sections will have an inward facing flange at their bottom (to support the
lower lens) and no flange on the top. When assembled, you will have two “open ended”
boxes. Measure the correct distance from the top of the curb to where the well is to
meet the drop ceiling. Slide the upper section of the well (non flange side) into the lower
section of the well (non flange side). Slide these sections together until the proper length
is achieved. Connect the two sections together where they overlap with #10, 1/2” truss
washer lath screws with neoprene bonded washer. Use several workers to support the
light well, and set it into the hole and onto the curb.
Proceed to SunTrackerTwo installation manual.
Longer “adjustable” Light Wells
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Light Well Installation (Continued)
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