JUKI AMB-289/IP-420 User manual

SIMPLIFIED
MANUAL
AMB-289/IP-420

– 1 –
1. BASIC OPERATION OF THE SEWING MACHINE
Power switch ON
Sewing pattern selection screen Button loader adjustment screen
Needle entry point input
and check with step motion
Start of sewing
Point setting mode
Necessary needle entry points are
set in order.
Sewing motion step mode
Needle entry points are inputted
while performing sewing.

– 2 –
<Explanation of the display at the time of independent sewing>
1) Data input screen
Symbol Display Description
APATTERN NEW
REGISTER button
Pattern No. new register screen is displayed.
→ Refer to "22. PERFORMING NEW REGISTER OF SEWING PATTERN" in Operation section of
INSTRUCTION MANUAL.
BPATTERN COPY
button
Sewing pattern copy screen is displayed.
→ Refer to "23. COPYING SEWING PATTERN" in Operation section of INSTRUCTION MANUAL.
CPATTERN NAME
SETTING button
Sewing pattern name input screen is displayed.
→ Refer to "6. NAMING THE PATTERN" in Operation section of INSTRUCTION MANUAL.
D
PATTERN NAME display Name which has been inputted to the sewing pattern being selected is displayed.
ENEEDLE CHANGE
button
This button performs origin retrieval, makes needle come down, and displays the needle change screen.
→ Refer to "34. PERFORMING CHANGE OF NEEDLE" in Operation section of INSTRUCTION MANUAL.
FCHUCK CLOSE/
OPEN button
This button performs close/open of the chuck. Chuck is opened as long as the button is pressed.
GPATTERN
SELECTION button
Pattern No. being selected at present is displayed on this button and when the button is pressed, the
pattern No. change screen is displayed.
→ Refer to "5. PERFORMING PATTERN No. SELECTION" in Operation section of INSTRUCTION MANUAL.
HCONTENTS OF
PATTERN display
Contents of the pattern which is registered to the pattern No. being selected at present are displayed.
The respective display sections consist of buttons and can be changed. The contents of display differ
in accordance with the sewing method.
* Sewing at/wrapped-around button with blindstitch
→ Refer to "8. PERFORMING DATA SETTING OF SEWING BUTTON WITH BLINDSTITCH (SHANK/
MARBLE BUTTON)" and "9. PERFORMING DATA SETTING OF SEWING BUTTON WITH
BLINDSTITCH (FLAT BUTTON)" in Operation section of INSTRUCTION MANUAL.
* Sewing at button directly to cloth
→ Refer to "10. PERFORMING DATA SETTING OF SEWING FLAT BUTTON DIRECTLY TO CLOTH"
in Operation section of INSTRUCTION MANUAL.
* Sewing at button with blindstitch
→ Refer to "11. PERFORMING DATA SETTING OF SEWING FLAT BUTTON WITH BLINDSTITCH"
in Operation section of INSTRUCTION MANUAL.
* Counter/stay button
→ Refer to "12. PERFORMING SETTING OF COUNTER/STAY BUTTONS" in Operation section of
INSTRUCTION MANUAL.
* Neck wrapping sewing
→ Refer to "13. PERFORMING DATA SETTING OF NECK WRAPPING SEWING DATA" in Operation
section of INSTRUCTION MANUAL.
ISEWING DATA
CHANGE button
Sewing data list screen is displayed.
→ Refer to "21. CHANGING SEWING DATA" in Operation section of INSTRUCTION MANUAL.
JNUMBER OF
REVOLUTIONS
SETTING button
Number of revolutions setting screen is displayed. Change of number of revolutions of sewing machine
for button sewing and that for neck wrapping can be performed.
→ Refer to "16. PERFORMING SETTING NUMBER OF REVOLUTIONS OF SEWING MACHINE" in
Operation section of INSTRUCTION MANUAL.
KSTAY THREAD
SETTING button
Stay thread setting screen is displayed. This screen is displayed only in case of sewing at/wrapped-
around button with blindstitch or at button with blindstitch, and setting of stay thread is possible.
→ Refer to "17. PERFORMING SETTING STAY THREAD" in Operation section of INSTRUCTION MANUAL.
LBUTTON SEWING
THREAD TENSION
SETTING button
Button sewing thread tension setting screen is displayed.
→ Refer to "18. PERFORMING INPUT OF BUTTON SEWING THREAD TENSION" in Operation section
of INSTRUCTION MANUAL.
MNECK WRAPPING
THREAD TENSION
SETTING button
Neck wrapping thread tension setting screen is displayed. This screen is displayed only in case of
sewing at/wrapped-around button with blindstitch or neck wrapping sewing.
→ Refer to "19. PERFORMING INPUT OF NECK WRAP THREAD TENSION" in Operation section of INSTRUCTION MANUAL.
NCUSTOMIZE button Sewing data which are more frequently used can be laid out to four buttons. When this button is
pressed, the laid-out sewing data change screen is displayed.
→ Refer to "36. CUSTOMIZING DATA INPUT SCREEN" in Operation section of INSTRUCTION MANUAL.
O
CHUCK
ADJUSTMENT button
Chuck adjustment screen is displayed.
→ Refer to "24. PERFORMING CHUCK ADJUSTMENT" in Operation section of INSTRUCTION MANUAL.
PSTEP SEWING
button
When this button is pressed, the step sewing screen which performs input and check of needle entry point is displayed.
→ Refer to "26. PERFORMING INPUT AND CHECK OF DATA WITH STEP MOTION" in Operation
section of INSTRUCTION MANUAL.
N
A B C OEF
G
H
M
L
K
J
P
I
D

– 3 –
2) Sewing screen
Symbol Display Description
ACHUCK
ADJUSTMENT
button
Chuck adjustment screen is displayed.
→Refer to "24. PERFORMING CHUCK ADJUSTMENT" in Operation section of INSTRUCTION
MANUAL.
BBUTTON
CENTERING
button
This is not displayed in the initial state.
→Refer to "25. PERFORMING BUTTON CENTERING" in Operation section of INSTRUCTION
MANUAL.
CPATTERN NAME
display
Pattern name which is set in the pattern data during sewing is displayed.
DLOADER MOTION
button
When this button is pressed, loader works and sets button to the chuck.
ENEEDLE CHANGE
button
This button makes needle come down, and the needle change screen is displayed.
→Refer to "34. PERFORMING CHANGE OF NEEDLE" in Operation section of INSTRUCTION MANUAL.
FCHUCK CLOSE/
OPEN button
This button performs close/open of the chuck.
Chuck is opened as long as the button is pressed.
GPATTERN NO.
display
Pattern No. during sewing is displayed.
HPATTERN
CONTENTS
display
Contents of display depend on the sewing method.
Blindstitch amount only can be set in the sewing screen.
IBLINDSTITCH
AMOUNT
SETTING button
Setting of blindstitch amount is possible.
* This is displayed only in case of sewing at/wrapped-around button with blindstitch or at button with blindstitch.
JCOUNTER VALUE
CHANGE button
Existing counter value is displayed on this button. When the button is pressed, the counter value
change screen is displayed.
→Refer to "32. USING COUNTER" in Operation section of INSTRUCTION MANUAL.
KCOUNTER
CHANGE OVER
button
Display of sewing counter/No. of pcs. counter can be changed over.
→Refer to "32. USING COUNTER" in Operation section of INSTRUCTION MANUAL.
LSTEP SEWING
button
When this button is pressed, the step sewing screen which performs input and check of needle entry
point is displayed.
→Refer to "26. PERFORMING INPUT AND CHECK OF DATA WITH STEP MOTION" in Operation
section of INSTRUCTION MANUAL.
MNUMBER OF
REVOLUTIONS
SETTING button
Number of revolutions setting screen is displayed. Change of number of revolutions of the sewing
machine for button sewing and that for neck wrapping can be performed.
→Refer to "16. PERFORMING SETTING NUMBER OF REVOLUTIONS OF SEWING MACHINE" in
Operation section of INSTRUCTION MANUAL.
NSTAY THREAD
SETTING button
Stay thread setting screen is displayed. This screen is displayed only in case of sewing at/wrapped-
around button with blindstitch or at button with blindstitch, and setting of stay thread is possible.
→Refer to
"17. PERFORMING SETTING STAY THREAD"
in Operation section of INSTRUCTION MANUAL.
OBUTTON SEWING
THREAD TENSION
SETTING button
Button sewing thread tension setting screen is displayed.
→Refer to "18. PERFORMING INPUT OF BUTTON SEWING THREAD TENSION" in Operation
section of INSTRUCTION MANUAL.
PNECK WRAPPING
THREAD TENSION
SETTING button
Neck wrap thread tension setting screen is displayed. This screen is displayed only in case of sewing
at/wrapped-around button with blindstitch or neck wrapping sewing.
→Refer to "19. PERFORMING INPUT OF NECK WRAP THREAD TENSION" in Operation section of
INSTRUCTION MANUAL.
QDIRECT button Pattern No. is changed over to pattern No. which is registered to the button.
→Refer to "37. CUSTOMIZING SEWING SCREEN" in Operation section of INSTRUCTION MANUAL.
RBUTTON LOADER
SELECTION button
Button loader being selected at present is displayed on the button.When the button is pressed, the
state of button loader can be changed.
G
MN
J
O
P
Q
KI
L
H
C
R
FE
A
BD

– 4 –
4
5
6
2. SETTING PROCEDURE OF SEWING PRODUCT
<In case of sewing at/wrapped-around button with blindstitch or sewing at button with blindstitch>
<In case of sewing at button directly to cloth>
<In case of counter/stay button>
Set button 1to button loader 2and depress the back part of
the pedal to insert the button into button chucks 3. (When the
button loader is not used, insert the button by hand since the
chuck is opened by depressing the back part of the pedal.)
↓
Set cloth 4to tongue 5and make it come in contact with
tongue stopper 6. (Release of the tongue is performed by de-
pressing the back part of the pedal.)
↓
When the front part of the pedal is depressed, the button chuck
comes down to the sewing position where the sewing is pos-
sible.
* By setting the pedal motion mode of memory switch data
, the button chuck automatically comes down to the sew-
ing position.
→ For the details of the memory switch data,
refer to "33. (2) Memory switch data list" in Operation section
of INSTRUCTION MANUAL.
↓
Sewing starts when start switch 7is turned ON.
Set button 1to button loader 2and depress the back part of the
pedal to insert the button into button chucks 3. (When the button
loader is not used, insert the button by hand since the chuck is
opened by depressing the back part of the pedal.)
↓
Set cloth 4under the needle, make the tongue come in contact
with the tongue stopper, and make cloth presser 5come down by
depressing the front part of the pedal to x the cloth. (By depress-
ing the pedal reversely, the cloth presser is released.)
↓
When depressing the front part of the pedal again, the button chuck
comes down to the sewing position where the sewing is possible.
* By setting the pedal motion mode of memory switch data ,
the button chuck automatically comes down to the sewing position.
→For the details of the memory switch data,
refer to "33. (2) Memory switch data list" in Operation section of
INSTRUCTION MANUAL.
↓
Sewing starts when start switch 6is turned ON.
Set upper button 1to button loader 2and depress the back part
of the pedal to insert the button into button chucks 3. (When the
button loader is not used, insert the button by hand since the chuck is
opened by depressing the back part of the pedal.)
↓
Insert lower button 4into button setting section 5of the feed plate.
↓
Set cloth 6under the needle, make the tongue come in contact
with the tongue stopper, and make cloth presser 7come down by
depressing the front part of the pedal to x the cloth. (By depressing
the pedal reversely, the cloth presser is released.)
↓
When the front part of the pedal is depressed, the button chuck
comes down to the sewing position where the sewing is possible.
* By setting the pedal motion mode of memory switch data ,
the button chuck automatically comes down to the sewing position.
→For the details of the memory switch data,
refer to "33. (2) Memory switch data list" in Operation section of
INSTRUCTION MANUAL.
↓
Sewing starts when start switch 8is turned ON.
1
3
2
7
6
1
3
2
45
4
5
867
1
3
2

– 5 –
3. STITCHING DIAGRAM OF SEWING FLAT/WRAPPED-AROUND
BUTTON WITH BLINDSTITCH
A 1st stitch hole position of upper button (longitudinal)
B 1st stitch hole position of upper button (lateral)
C Upper buttonhole interval (longitudinal)
D Upper buttonhole interval (lateral)
E Blindstitch amount
F Blindstitch width
G Compensation of lower left position of upper button
HAmount of stay thread
Needle entry to button Needle entry to cloth
I Button sewing height (only neck wrapping of sewing at/wrapped-around button with blindstitch)
Button sewing height (shank and marble buttons)
J Tie stitch position at the start of sewing of neck wrapping (longitudinal)
Tie stitch position at the start of sewing of neck wrapping (lateral)
K Start position of neck wrapping
Stitch width of neck wrapping (right side)
L Top position of neck wrapping
Stitch width of neck wrapping (left side)
M Tie stitch position at the end of sewing of neck wrapping (longitudinal)
Tie stitch position at the end of sewing of neck wrapping (lateral)
N Whole compensation of button holding position (lateral)
P Neck wrapping pitch
Needle entry of neck wrapping
to can select the step motion mode and only.
A
B
C
F
E
G
H
D
N
I
M
K
J
P
L

– 6 –
4. SEWING DATA LIST
Sewing data are those that can be inputted to 99 patterns from pattern 1 to 99 and can be inputted to each pattern.
However, the sewing data that can be inputted differ according to the selected sewing method or sewing shape.
No. Item
Setting range Edit unit Initial display Remarks
Sewing method
This item sets the sewing method.
Stitch shape (sewing at/wrapped-around button with blindstitch)
This item sets the stitch shape of sewing flat/wrappedaround button with
blindstitch.
Stitch shape (sewing at button directly to cloth)
This item sets the stitch shape of sewing at button directly to cloth.
Stitch shape (sewing at button with blindstitch)
This item sets the stitch shape of sewing at button with blindstitch.
Stitch shape (counter/stay button sewing)
This item sets the stitch shape of counter/stay button sewing.
* Selection of the shape of lower button is performed with .
Upper buttonhole interval (longitudinal)
This item sets the needle entry interval of top feed.
Upper buttonhole interval (lateral)
This item sets the needle entry interval of top feed.
Needle entry interval of bottom feed (longitudinal)
This item sets the needle entry interval of bottom feed.
Needle entry interval of bottom feed (lateral)
This item sets the needle entry interval of bottom feed.
Number of stitches for button sewing
This item sets the number of stitches for button sewing.
Number of stitches at the start of button sewing (1 to 3 stitches)
This item sets the number of stitches at the start of button sewing.
– – –
– – –
– – –
– – –
– – –
0.10 to
6.00
0.10 to
6.00
0.10 to
6.00
0.10 to
6.00
2 to 32
1 to 3
– – –
– – –
– – –
– – –
– – –
0.05mm
0.05mm
0.05mm
0.05mm
2 stitches
1 stitch
Sewing at/
wrappedar-
ound
button with
blindstitch
4-holed but-
ton without
cross-over
stitches
(longitudi-
nal)
4-holed but-
ton without
cross-over
stitches
(longitudinal)
4-holed but-
ton without
cross-over
stitches
(longitudinal)
Front : 4-
holed button
without cross-
over stitches
(longitudinal)
Rear : 4-
holed button
without cross-
over stitches
(longitudinal)
3.60
3.60
3.20
3.20
6
1
: Sewing at/wrapped-around button with
blindstitch
: Sewing at button
directly to cloth
: Sewing at button
with blindstitch : Neck wrapping : Counter/stay button sewing

– 7 –
Compensation of lower left position of upper button
This item is set when cloth is pulled and the amount of blindstitch
on the left side is different from that on the right side.
Compensation of 3rd stitch at the start of sewing
This item compensates the position of 3rd stitch at the start of sewing
to prevent thread from slipping off at the start of button sewing
Blindstitch width
This item has to be set within the range where needle and tongue
do not come in contact with each other.
Blindstitch amount
This item sets the blindstitch amount to cloth.
Buttonhole height of shank/marble button sewing
(Height from the feed plate)
This item is set to prevent the contact of needle and buttonhole.
Thinning level of the stay button
This item decreases the number of cross-over stitches of the lower side
button at the time of stay button sewing.
Lateral compensation of needle entry of lower button at the
time of sewing counter button (front : 4 holes, rear : 2 holes)
Perform compensation to such an extent that needle does not come
in contact with buttonhole within the range of lower buttonhole.
Number of stitches of tie stitch at the end of sewing flat button
directly to cloth.
This item sets the number of stitches of tie stitch at the end of
sewing at button directly to cloth.
Number of stitches of tie stitch at the end of counter sewing
This item sets the number of stitches of tie stitch at the end of
counter sewing.
Button sewing height (only neck wrapping of sewing at/
wrapped-around button with blindstitch)
This item sets the button holding height (nished height)
in the neck wrapping process.
Button height (shank/marble)
This item sets the button holding height (nished height)
in the neck wrapping process.
Button height (counter button)
This item sets the button holding height (nished height)
in the button sewing process.
Number of stitches at the start of sewing of neck wrapping
This item sets the number of stitches at the start of sewing of
neck wrapping.
Number of stitches of tie stitch at the end of sewing of neck
wrapping
This item sets the number of stitches of tie stitch
at the end of sewing in the neck wrapping process.
Compensation of the button holding height at the time
of sewing at/wrapped-around button with blindstitch
This item sets when compensating the button holding height in the
button sewing process and desiring to give slackness between
button and neck wrapping section.
Thread release compensation
This item is the compensation value of the button holding height
in the button sewing process. Sewing is performed in the neck
wrapping process by gradually returning the compensation value to
the former one. This item is set when desiring to tightly wrap up
to the root of the button.
–1.00 to
1.00
0 to 0.5
0.0 to 1.2
–1.00 to
5.00
0.0 to 10.0
– – –
0 to 0.30
2 to 3
1 to 3
0.5 to 15.0
0 to 15.0
0 to 20.0
1 to 3
2 to 3
–5.0 to 5.0
–5.0 to 5.0
0.05mm
0.05mm
0.2mm
0.05mm
0.1mm
– – –
0.05mm
1 stitch
1 stitch
0.1mm
0.1mm
0.1mm
1 stitch
1 stitch
0.1mm
0.1mm
0
0
0.6
0.40
3.0
Without
thinning
0.30
2
2
2.5
Shank
button: 3.5
Marble
button: 2.5
4.5
2
2
–0.5
0.5
*1
* 1 The maximum value of the range of data editing depends on the setting of .
* 2 The maximum value of the data edit range varies according to the sewing shape.
: Thinning level 3
: Without thinning : Thinning level 1
: Thinning level 2
No. Item
Setting range Edit unit Initial display Remarks
*2

– 8 –
Button loader selection
<In case of shank/marble button>
: Loader OFF : Loader ON
<In case of normal button>
: Loader OFF : Loader ON
Number of times of wrapping
This item sets the number of times of thread wrapping sewing
in the neck wrapping process.
Number of stitches of thread air-blow
This item sets the number of stitches of thread air-blow in the neck
wrapping process.
Compensation of button height in the neck wrapping process
This item compensates the button holding height in the
neck wrapping process and adjusts the wrapped condition.
Button positioning motion With/without
: With : Without
This item sets whether the compensation motion of button positioning is
performed at the time of operation by operator before driving the sewing
machine. It is convenient to use this item when sewing buttons which are
uneven in shape.
* Compensation value which has been set here is applied to one button
sewing only and the compensation value returns to 0 after completion of
sewing.
Needle height at the time of button positioning
This item sets the angle which automatically lowers needle at the
time of button positioning motion.
Set the angle which is easy to perform positioning according to
kinds of buttons, neck wrapping height, etc.
Thread drawing motor start position in the button sewing process
This item sets the thread slack amount at the start of sewing to
stabilize thread remaining amount at the start of sewing.
Number of stitches to start thread drawing motor operation
in the button sewing process
This item sets number of stitches to hold the thread slack amount
set in No. .
Compensation of tension timing on cloth side and
rear side in the button sewing process
This item changes the tension changeover timing at the needle
entry on cloth side and rear side, and shifts the knotting position.
1st stitch hole position of upper button (longitudinal)
1st stitch hole position of upper button (lateral)
Shank-/marble-button hole position for lower button (longitudinal)
1st stitch hole position of lower button (longitudinal)
1st stitch hole position of lower button (lateral)
Whole compensation of button holding position (lateral)
Compensation of shank/marble blindstitch position (left)
Hole position of shank/marble button
Tie stitch position of 1st stitch at the start of sewing of neck wrapping
(longitudinal)
– – –
0 to 5
0 to 20
–5.0 to 5.0
– – –
0 to 130
0 to 100
1 to 2
–90 to 90
–
2.00 to 4.00
– 2.00 to 4.00
– 4.00 to 4.00
– 13.00 to 4.00
– 2.00 to 4.00
–3.0 to 3.0
–2.0 to 2.0
–5.0 to 5.0
–4.0 to 4.0
– – –
1 time
1 stitch
0.1mm
– – –
1˚
1 pulse
1 stitch
1˚
0.05
0.05
0.1
0.05
0.05
0.1
0.1
0.1
0.1
Loader used
(Front side)
0
6
0
Without
80
30
1
0
1.80
1.80
0
1.60
1.60
0
0
0.5
0
No. Item
Setting range Edit unit Initial display Remarks

– 9 –
Tie stitch position of 1st stitch at the start of sewing of neck wrapping
(lateral)
Tie stitch position of 2nd stitch at the start of sewing of neck wrapping
(longitudinal)
Tie stitch position of 2nd stitch at the start of sewing of neck wrapping
(lateral)
Stitch width of neck wrapping (right side)
Stitch width of neck wrapping (left side)
Start position of neck wrapping
Top position of neck wrapping
1st stitch of first compensation of tie stitch position at the end of
button sewing (longitudinal)
1st stitch of first compensation of tie stitch position at the end of
button sewing (lateral)
2nd stitch of first compensation of tie stitch position at the end of
button sewing (longitudinal)
2nd stitch of first compensation of tie stitch position at the end of
button sewing (lateral)
3rd stitch of first compensation of tie stitch position at the end of
button sewing (longitudinal)
3rd stitch of first compensation of tie stitch position at the end of
button sewing (lateral)
1st stitch of second compensation of tie stitch position at the end of
button sewing (longitudinal)
1st stitch of second compensation of tie stitch position at the end of
button sewing (lateral)
2nd stitch of second compensation of tie stitch position at the end of
button sewing (longitudinal)
2nd stitch of second compensation of tie stitch position at the end of
button sewing (lateral)
3rd stitch of second compensation of tie stitch position at the end of
button sewing (longitudinal)
3rd stitch of second compensation of tie stitch position at the end of
button sewing (lateral)
Tie stitch position at the end of sewing of neck wrapping (longitudinal)
Tie stitch position at the end of sewing of neck wrapping (lateral)
Longitudinal position of thread trimming of button sewing
Longitudinal position of thread trimming of neck wrapping sewing
Blindstitch width of shank/marble (right)
Blindstitch width of shank/marble (left)
–4.0 to 4.0
–4.0 to 4.0
–4.0 to 4.0
0 to 5.0
0 to 5.0
–1.0 to 3.0
–1.0 to 5.0
–1.0 to 1.0
–1.0 to 1.0
–1.0 to 1.0
–1.0 to 1.0
–1.0 to 1.0
–1.0 to 1.0
–1.0 to 1.0
–1.0 to 1.0
–1.0 to 1.0
–1.0 to 1.0
–1.0 to 1.0
–1.0 to 1.0
–4.0 to 4.0
–4.0 to 4.0
–4.0 to 8.0
–4.0 to 8.0
–2.0 to 5.0
–2.0 to 5.0
0.1
0.1
0.1
0.1
0.1
0.1
0.0
0.1
0.1
0.1
0.1
0.1
0.1
0.1
0.1
0.1
0.1
0.1
0.1
0.1
0.1
0.1
0.1
0.1
0.1
–0.3
1.0
0.3
3.0
3.0
1.0
0.0
0.3
0
0
0
0
0
0.3
0
0
0
0
0
1.2
3.0
–1.0
–0.2
0.3
0.3
No. Item
Setting range Edit unit Initial display Remarks
* 1 The maximum value of the data edit range varies according to the sewing shape.
*1