MakerBot Replicator User manual

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MakerBot Replicator 5th Generation Teardown Guide
MakerBot
Tools Needed:
1.3mm Hex Driver
T10 - T20 Torx Driver
Phillips Screw Driver
2.0mm Hex Driver
1.5mm Hex Driver
2.5mm Hex Driver
T10 Security Torx Drive
1 Pair of thin Tweezers
Small Container for Screws
Small Wire Cutters

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Step 2 - Remove Filament
Spool Drawer
Gently lift the Top Cover about
2 inches in order to give enough
clearance for the Filament Spool
Drawer Stop to pass through.
Gently lift the Filament Spool
Drawer upward to remove from
the body of the Replicator.
Step 1 - Remove the Back Panel
Six (6) Torx socket head screws
Six (6) Torx Button Head bolts
Four (4) Torx socket head screws
surrounding Power Supply
Remove the following screws from
the outer edge of the Back Panel
using a T15 screw driver:
Gently pull back the Back Panel
o. Be mindful of the two tabs in
the back if they need to be
popped out.
NOTE: Four (4) screws at the top
center of the Back Panel do not
need to be removed).
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MakerBot Replicator
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Unplug the HDMI Cable.
Remove the six (6) Torx button
heads attaching the UI to the Top
Cover and push the UI out of the
Top Cover.
Remove the four (4) Torx button
head screws holding the UI
Electrostatic Discharge Cover
(ESD) cover onto the UI Faceplate.
Pull apart the ESD to separate
Remove the four (4) Torx button
head screws that attach the
Hoboken PCB to the UI Faceplate.
Note: The following steps are only
if you need to disassemble the UI
Step 4 - Remove User Interface
Assembly (UI)
Disconnect the Camera Wire
Harness located behind the User
Interface Assembly (UI).
Gently lift the back of the Top
Cover first to expose the Snap
Brackets
Note: DO NOT lift top cover more
than 2 inches or you run risk of
breaking the screw boss, which are
not replaceable).
Using a medium length
screwdriver, from the front side of
the Replicator pry the Top cover
from the Font Panel snap brackets
located at each corner.
Unplug the motor wires and HDMI
cable, then lift and remove the Top
Cover and set aside.
Step 3 - Remove Top Cover
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Remove the two (2) Torx screws
attaching the Carriage Assembly
to the Carriage Adapter using a
T10.
Note: This step only necessary
if you troubleshooting the LCD
screen or Hoboken PCB
Push on the back of the Carriage
Assembly (push toward the front
of the printer) to remove the
carriage from the bracket.
(optional) Use a 1.3mm hex driver
to remove the set screw holding
the Castle Gear on to the Carriage
Motor axle.
To disconnect the LCD Screen lift
the brown tab on the back of the
Hoboken PCB and gently pull out
the LCD Screens’ ribbon cable
and lift the LCD Screen o of the
Hoboken PCB. Notice the two (2)
foam spacers on the back of the
LCD Screen
NOTE: The LCD Screen is not
glued to the Hoboken PCB it’s held
by pressure
Step 6 - Remove Carriage
Assembly
Step 5 - Disassemble
the UI (Optional)
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Remove the two (2) Torx screws
holding the Carriage Cover (front)
and the Carriage Extruder Mount
(back)
Press in the snap features and
gently pry open and separate the
front from the back of the Carriage
Assembly.
Pull back the plastic tab around
the FFC and press the to tabs on
each side of the connector and
unplug the FFC from the Bronx
PCB.
Gently unplug both the Active
Cooling Blower and the Extruder
Cooling Fan from the Bronx PCB.
Remove three (3) socket cap
screws using a 2.5mm hex driver
and remove the Carriage Motor
and Bronx PCB.
Step 7 -Disassemble Carriage
Assembly (optional)
Unplug both Gantry Motors (Left
and Right).
Remove six (6) Torx button heads
that attach the Gantry Assembly
to the body of the Replicator.
Step 8 - Remove Gantry
Assembly
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Four (4) socket cap heads
attaching the Lower Gantr
Brackets to the Linear Bearings.
Using a 1.5mm hex driver
Eight (8) buttons head screws (4
per rail) attaching the Gantry Rails
to the X Y Gantry Using a 1.5mm
hex driver
Remove the following screws:
Using a 2.0mm hex driver loosen
up the shoulder screws to remove
the Black Idler Pulleys.
Loosen the two (2) button
head screws holding down the
Tensioned Pulley Bracket using
a 1.5mm hex driver located on
the front left. Next using a T15 or
a 3mm hex driver loosen up the
Tensioning Bolt to give you enough
slack and remove the Belt.
Unclip the Belt Clip o the
Carriage adapter, using a 1.5mm
hex driver remove twelve (12)
button heads attaching the Upper
XY Bracket to the Lower Gantry
Brackets
(NOTE: Most belt are now glued
to the belt clip, it is possible to
remove the Belt Clip with out
damaging the belt. If belt is
damaged replace both Belt Clip
and Belt).
Step 9 - Remove Belt and Belt
Clip
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Remove the six (6) Torx button
heads that hold the Spool Drawer
Alignment Brackets to the Z-Case.
Pull Alignment Brackets away
from the body of the Replicator.
Step 10-Remove Spool Drawer
Alignment Brackets
Unplug the HDMI Cable and
remove the Electrostatic Discharge
Cover (ESD) by removing the two
(2) Torx button heads using a T20.
Remove the one (1) Torx button
head attaching the PCB Adapter
Plate to the Base Plate
Gently lift the ESD cover and
unplug the WiFi Antenna, next
open the white cable clip located
on the top of the ESD cover and
remove the Motor Cable Harness.
Unplug the Z-Motor and set aside.
Pull the Brooklyn PCB towards
yourself to give some slack, press
down the white tab on the 20 pin
Power Supply connector and pull
out of Brooklyn PCB, slide out of
metal slot to remove.
Step 11 -Remove Brooklyn PCB
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Four (4) Torx button thread
formers button heads that attach
the Z-Back to the side panels
Two (2) Torx button heads that
attach the Z-Back to the Floor
Plate.
Remove the following screws:
Pull Z-back back towards you
away from the body of the
Replicator and set aside.
To remove Z-Stage Assembly
remove the four (4) Torx button
head screws using a T15
To remove Z-Stage Assembly
remove the four (4) Torx button
head screws using a T15
To open up the Z-Stage remove
the Nylock Nuts located
underneath the Z-Stage using
a 5mm nutdriver (Note: Older
models have Push Nuts that
will have to be pried open). Next
remove the four (4) Conical
Springs (2 strong, 2 weak) located
with in the Z-Stage. Finally slide
out the Spring Clevis Pin that
holds the Build Plate Holder and
Step 12 - Remove the Z-Case
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Step 12 - Remove Z-Case
Continued
To remove the Z-Motor and
the Brass Nut, First remove the
Z-Motor from the Z-Case by
removing the four (4) button
heads that attach the Z-Motor to
the Z-Case Case using a 2.5mm
screwdriver. Spin threaded rod
until it falls out of the Z-Case. Next
remove the four (4) button heads
that attach the Brass Nut to the
Z-Case using a 2.5mm screwdriver.
Two (2) located on the front of the
printer on the Floor Plate using a
T15
Two (2) that attach the Floor
plate to the Base Plate (inside the
Replicator) using a T15
Remove the following screws:
Pull the Floor Plate away from the
front of the Replicator to remove.
Remove the seven (7) Torx self
tapping screws that attach the
Left and Right Panel to the Base
Plate,
Remove the six (6) Torx self
tapping screw that attack the
Left and Right Panels to the Front
Panel.
Step 13 - Disassemble the
Housing Assembly
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Remove the Camera by pushing on
the Camera Mount Clip that holds
it on to the Left Panel.
Step 14 - Remove the Camera
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