Derby cycle Impulse 2.0 pedelec User manual

BICYCLE OWNER’S MANUAL
| 11th Edition, 2015
ORIGINAL USER MANUAL PEDELEC IMPULSE .
| Version 2 | 04.2015
SERVICE BOOKLET
| 04.2015
English
Item no. 1973K0015026

Bicycle Owner’s
Manual
11th Edition, 2015
This manual meets ISO-4210, 16 CFR 1512 and EN 14764,
14766 and 14781 Standards
IMPORTANT:
This manual contains important safety, performance and
service information. Read it completely before you take the
rst ride on your new bicycle, and keep it for reference.
Additional safety, performance and service information for
specic components such as suspension or pedals on your
bicycle, or for accessories such as helmets or lights that you
purchase, may also be available. Make sure that your dealer
has given you all the manufacturers’ literature that was
included with your bicycle or accessories. In case of a conict
between the instructions in this manual and information
provided by a component manufacturer, always follow the
component manufacturer’s instructions. You must also read
the bpsa manual delivered with this bike.
If you purchased a pedelec, please carelly read the
complete original user manual of the pedelec too!
If you have any questions or do not understand something,
take responsibility for your safety and consult with your deal-
er or the bicycle’s manufacturer.
NOTE:
This manual is not intended as a comprehensive use, service,
repair or maintenance manual. Please see your dealer for
all service, repairs or maintenance. Your dealer may also be
able to refer you to classes, clinics or books on bicycle use,
service, repair or maintenance.
This manual is not intended as a guide to learn how to ride a
bicycle or a pedelec.

Bicycle Owner’s Manual 3
Contents
GENERAL WARNING p. 4
A special note to parents p. 5
1. First
A. Bike t p. 6
B. Safety rst p. 6
C. Mechanical Safety Check p. 6
D. First ride p. 7
2. Safety
A. The Basics p. 8
B. Riding Safety p. 8
C. O Road Safety p. 9
D. Wet Weather Riding p. 9
E. Night Riding p. 9
F. Extreme, stunt or competition riding p. 10
G. Changing Components or Adding Accessories p. 10
3. Fit
A. Standover height p. 11
B. Saddle position p. 11
C. Handlebar height and angle p. 13
D. Control position adjustments p. 13
E. Brake reach p. 13
4. Tech
A. Wheels p. 13
1. secondary retention devices p. 14
2. Wheels with cam action systems p. 15
3. Removing and installing wheels p. 15
B. Seat post cam action clamp p. 17
C. Brakes p. 17
D. Shiing gears p. 18
E. Pedals p. 20
F. Bicycle Suspension p. 21
G. Tires and Tubes p. 21
5. Service
A. Service Intervals p. 23
B. If your bicycle sustains an impact p. 24
Appendix A: Intended Use p. 24
Appendix B: Lifespan of your bike and its components p. 28
Appendix C: Coaster Brakes p. 32
Appendix D: Fastener Torque Specications p. 33

4 Bicycle Owner’s Manual
GENERAL WARNING:
Like any sport, bicycling involves risk of injury and
damage. By choosing to ride a bicycle, you assume the
responsibility for that risk, so you need to know — and to
practice — the rules of safe and responsible riding and of
proper use and maintenance. Proper use and maintenance
of your bicycle reduces risk of injury.
This Manual contains many “Warnings” and “Cautions”
concerning the consequences of failure to maintain or
inspect your bicycle and of failure to follow safe cycling
practices.
• The combination of the safety alert symbol and
the word WARNING indicates a potentially hazardous
situation which, if not avoided, could result in serious
injury or death.
• The combination of the safety alert symbol and
the word CAUTION indicates a potentially hazardous
situation which, if not avoided, may result in minor or
moderate injury, or is an alert against unsafe practices.
• The word CAUTION used without the safety alert
symbol indicates a situation which, if not avoided, could
result in serious damage to the bicycle or the voiding of
your warranty.
Many of the Warnings and Cautions say “you may lose
control and fall”. Because any fall can result in serious
injury or even death, we do not always repeat the warning
of possible injury or death.
Because it is impossible to anticipate every situation or
condition which can occur while riding, this Manual makes
no representation about the safe use of the bicycle under
all conditions. There are risks associated with the use of
any bicycle which cannot be predicted or avoided, and
which are the sole responsibility of the rider.

Bicycle Owner’s Manual 5
A special note for parents:
WARNING: This manual does not cover children's
bikes, Juvenile or BMX bicycles.
As a parent or guardian, you are responsible for the
activities and safety of your minor child, and that includes
making sure that the bicycle is properly tted to the child;
that it is in good repair and safe operating condition; that
you and your child have learned and understand the safe
operation of the bicycle; and that you and your child have
learned, understood and obeyed not only the applicable
local motor vehicle, bicycle and trac laws, but also the
common sense rules of safe and responsible bicycling. As
a parent, you should read this manual, as well as review
its warnings and the bicycle’s nctions and operating
procedures with your child, before letting your child ride the
bicycle.
WARNING: Make sure that your child always wears
an approved bicycle helmet when riding; but also
make sure that your child understands that a bicycle
helmet is for bicycling only, and must be removed when
not riding. A helmet must not be worn while playing, in
play areas, on playground equipment, while climbing
trees, or at any time while not riding a bicycle. Failure to
follow this warning could result in serious injury or death.

6 Bicycle Owner’s Manual
1. First
NOTE: We strongly urge you to read this manual in its
entirety before your rst ride. At the very least, read and
make sure that you understand each point in this section,
and refer to the cited sections on any issue which you
don’t completely understand. Please note that not all
bicycles have all of the features described in this manual.
Ask your dealer to point out the features of your bicycle.
A. Bike t
1. Is your bike the right size? To check, see Section 3.A.
If your bicycle is too large or too small for you, you may
lose control and fall. If your new bike is not the right size,
ask your dealer to exchange it before you ride it.
2. Is the saddle at the right height? To check, see
Section 3.B. If you adjust your saddle height, follow the
Minimum Insertion instructions in Section 3.B.
3. Are saddle and seat post securely clamped? A
correctly tightened saddle will allow no saddle movement
in any direction. See Section 3.B.
4.Are the stem and handlebars at the right height for
you? If not, see Section 3.C.
5. Can you comfortably operate the brakes? If not, you
may be able to adjust their angle and reach. See Section
3.D and 3.E.
6.Do you lly understand how to operate your new
bicycle? If not, before your rst ride, have your dealer
explain any nctions or features which you do not
understand.
B. Safety rst
1. Always wear an approved and correct tting
helmet when riding your bike, and follow the helmet
manufacturer’s instructions for t, use and care.
2. Do you have all the other required and recommended
safety equipment? See Section 2. It’s your responsibility
to familiarize yourself with the laws of the areas where
you ride, and to comply with all applicable laws.
3. Do you know how to correctly secure your ont and
rear wheels? Check Section 4.A.1 to make sure. Riding
with an improperly secured wheel can cause the wheel to
wobble or disengage om the bicycle, and cause serious
injury or death.
4.If your bike has toeclips and straps or clipless (“step-
in”) pedals, make sure you know how they work (see
Section 4.E). These pedals require special techniques and
skills. Follow the pedal manufacturer’s instructions for
use, adjustment and care.
5. Do you have “toe overlap”? On smaller amed
bicycles your toe or toeclip may be able to contact the
ont wheel when a pedal is all the way forward and the
wheel is turned. Read Section 4.E. to check whether you
have toeclip overlap.
6.Does your bike have suspension? If so, check Section
4.F. Suspension can change the way a bicycle performs.
Follow the suspension manufacturer’s instructions for
use, adjustment and care.
C. Mechanical Safety Check
Routinely check the condition of your bicycle before
every ride.
 Nuts, bolts screws & other fasteners: Because
manufacturers use a wide variety of fastener sizes and
shapes made in a variety of materials, oen diering by
model and component, the correct tightening force or
torque cannot be generalized. To make sure that the many
fasteners on your bicycle are correctly tightened, refer to
the Fastener Torque Specications in Appendix D of this
manual or to the torque specications in the instructions
provided by the manufacturer of the component in
question. Correctly tightening a fastener requires a
calibrated torque wrench. A professional bicycle mechanic
with a torque wrench should torque the fasteners on
you bicycle. If you choose to work on your own bicycle,
you must use a torque wrench and the correct tightening
torque specications om the bicycle or component
manufacturer or om your dealer. If you need to make an
adjustment at home or in the eld, we urge you to exercise
care, and to have the fasteners you worked on checked by
your dealer as soon as possible. Note that there are some
components which require special tools and knowledge. In
Sections 3 and 4 we discuss the items which you may be able
to adjust yourself. All other adjustments and repairs should
be done by a qualied bicycle mechanic.
WARNING: Check all fasteners and quick releases for
correct and safe nction, even if the bike was le
unattended just for a short period of time!
WARNING: Correct tightening force on fasteners –
nuts, bolts, screws– on your bicycle is important.
Too little force, and the fastener may not hold
securely. Too much force, and the fastener can strip
threads, stretch, deform or break. Either way, incorrect
tightening force can result in component failure, which
can cause you to loose control and fall.
 Make sure nothing is loose. Li the ont wheel o
the ground by two or three inches, then let it bounce
on the ground. Anything sound, feel or look loose? Do a
visual and tactile inspection of the whole bike. Any loose
parts or accessories? If so, secure them. If you’re not sure,
don`t start the ride. First ask someone with experience to
check.
 Tires & Wheels: Make sure tires are correctly
inated (see Section 4.G.1). Check by putting one hand
on the saddle, one on the intersection of the handlebars
and stem, then bouncing your weight on the bike while
looking at tire deection. Compare what you see with how

Bicycle Owner’s Manual 7
 Handlebar ends: Make sure the handlebar grips are
secure and in good condition, with no cuts, tears, or worn
out areas. If not, have your dealer replace them. Make
sure the handlebar ends and extensions are plugged. If
not, have your dealer plug them before you ride. If the
handlebars have bar end extensions, make sure they are
clamped tight enough so you can’t twist them.
WARNING: Loose or damaged handlebar grips or
extensions can cause you to lose control and fall.
Unplugged handlebars or extensions can cut you and
cause serious injury in an otherwise minor accident.
VERY IMPORTANT SAFETY NOTE:
Please also read and become thoroughly familiar with
the important information on the lifespan of your bicycle
and its components in Appendix B on Page 28.
D. First ride
When you buckle on your helmet and go for your rst
familiarization ride on your new bicycle, be sure to pick
a controlled environment, away om cars, other cyclists,
obstacles or other hazards. Ride to become familiar with
the controls, features and performance of your new bike.
Familiarize yourself with the braking action of the bike
(see Section 4.C). Make yourself familiar which levers
activates which brake, right/le, ont/rear. Test the
brakes at slow speed, putting your weight toward the rear
and gently applying the brakes, rear brake rst. Sudden
or excessive application of the ont brake could pitch you
over the handlebars. Applying brakes too hard can lock up
a wheel, which could cause you to lose control and fall.
Skidding is an example of what can happen when a wheel
locks up.
If your bicycle has toeclips or clipless pedals, practice
getting in and out of the pedals. See paragraph B.4 above
and Section 4.E.4.
If your bike has suspension, familiarize yourself with
how the suspension responds to brake application and
rider weight shis. See paragraph B.6 above and Section
4.F.
Practice shiing the gears (see Section 4.D). Remember
to never move the shier while pedaling backward,
nor pedal backwards immediately aer having moved
the shier. This could jam the chain and cause serious
damage to the bicycle.
Check out the handling and response of the bike; and
check the comfort.
If you have any questions, or if you feel anything about
the bike is not as it should be, consult your dealer before
you ride again.
it looks when you know the tires are correctly inated;
and adjust if necessary.
 Tires in good shape? Spin each wheel slowly and look
for cuts in the tread and sidewall. Replace damaged tires
before riding the bike.
 Wheels true? Spin each wheel and check for brake
clearance and side-to-side wobble. If a wheel wobbles
side to side even slightly, or rubs against or hits the brake
pads, take the bike to a qualied bike shop to have the
wheel trued.
CAUTION: Wheels must be true for rim brakes to
work eectively. Wheel trueing is a skill which
requires special tools and experience. Do not
attempt to true a wheel unless you have the knowledge,
experience and tools needed to do the job correctly.
 Wheel rims clean and undamaged? Make sure the
rims are clean and undamaged at the tire bead and, if you
have rim brakes, along the braking surface. Check to make
sure that any rim wear indicator marking is not or still
visible at any point on the wheel rim depending on the
type of wear indicator used on your bike.
WARNING: Bicycle wheel rims are subject to wear.
Ask your dealer about wheel rim wear. Some wheel
rims have a rim wear indicator which becomes
visible or disappears as the rim’s braking surface wears. A
visible rim wear indicator on the side of the wheel rim is
an indication that the wheel rim has reached its maximum
usable life. Riding a wheel that is at the end of its usable
life can result in wheel failure, which can cause you to
loose control and fall.
 Brakes: Check the brakes for proper operation (see
Section 4.C). Squeeze the brake levers. Are the brake
quick-releases closed? All control cables seated and
securely engaged? If you have rim brakes, do the brake
pads contact the wheel rim squarely and make ll contact
with the rim? Do the brakes begin to engage within
an inch of brake lever movement? Can you apply ll
braking force at the levers without having them touch the
handlebar? If not, your brakes need adjustment. Do not
ride the bike until the brakes are properly adjusted by a
professional bicycle mechanic.
 Wheel retention system: Make sure the ont and rear
wheels are correctly secured. See Section 4.A
 Seat post: If your seat post has an over-center cam
action fastener for easy height adjustment, check that it is
properly adjusted and in the locked position. See Section
4.B.
 Handlebar and saddle alignment: Make sure the
saddle and handlebar stem are parallel to the bike’s
center line and clamped tight enough so that you can’t
twist them out of alignment. See Sections 3.B and 3.C.

8 Bicycle Owner’s Manual
2. Safety
A. The Basics
WARNING: The area in which you ride may require
specic safety devices. It is your responsibility to
familiarize yourself with the laws of the area where you
ride and to comply with all applicable laws, including
properly equipping yourself and your bike as the law
requires.
Observe all local bicycle laws and regulations. Observe
regulations about bicycle lighting, licensing of bicycles,
riding on sidewalks, laws regulating bike
path and trail use, helmet laws, child
carrier laws, special bicycle trac laws.
It’s your responsibility to know and obey
the laws.
1. Always wear a cycling helmet which
meets the latest certication standards and is appropriate
for the type of riding you do. Always follow the helmet
manufacturer’s instructions for t, use and care of your
helmet. Most serious bicycle injuries involve head injuries
which might have been avoided if the rider had worn an
appropriate helmet.
WARNING: Failure to wear a helmet when riding
may result in serious injury or death.
2. Always do the Mechanical Safety Check (Section 1.C)
before you get on a bike.
3. Be thoroughly familiar with the controls of your
bicycle: brakes (Section 4.C.); pedals (Section 4.E.);
shiing (Section 4.D.)
4. Be carel to keep body parts and other objects away
om the sharp teeth of chainrings, the moving chain, the
turning pedals and cranks, and the spinning wheels of
your bicycle.
5. Always wear:
• Shoes that will stay on your feet and will grip the
pedals. Make sure that shoe laces cannot get into moving
parts, and never ride barefoot or in sandals.
• Bright, visible clothing that is not so loose that it
can be tangled in the bicycle or snagged by objects at the
side of the road or trail.
• Protective eyewear, to protect against airborne dirt,
dust and bugs — tinted when the sun is bright, clear when
it’s not.
6. Unless your bicycle was specically designed for
jumping (See Appendix A, Intended Use) don’t jump with
your bike. Jumping a bike, particularly a BMX or mountain
bike, can be n; but it can put huge and unpredictable
stress on the bicycle and its components. Riders who
insist on jumping their bikes risk serious damage, to their
bicycles as well as to themselves. Before you attempt to
jump, do stunt riding or race with your bike, read and
understand Section 2.F.
7. Ride at a speed appropriate for conditions. Higher
speed means higher risk.
B. Riding Safety
1. Obey all Rules of the Road and all local trac laws.
2. You are sharing the road or the path with others —
motorists, pedestrians and other cyclists. Respect their
rights.
3. Ride defensively. Always assume that others do not
see you.
4. Look ahead, and be ready to avoid:
• Vehicles slowing or turning, entering the road or your
lane ahead of you, or coming up behind you.
• Parked car doors opening.
• Pedestrians stepping out.
• Children or pets playing near the road.
• Pot holes, sewer grating, railroad tracks, expansion
joints, road or sidewalk construction, debris and other
obstructions that could cause you to swerve into trac,
catch your wheel or cause you to have an accident.
• The many other hazards and distractions which can
occur on a bicycle ride.
5. Ride in designated bike lanes, on designated bike
paths or as close to the edge of the road as possible,
in the direction of trac ow or as directed by local
governing laws.
6. Stop at stop signs and trac lights; slow down and
look both ways at street intersections. Remember that a
bicycle always loses in a collision with a motor vehicle, so
be prepared to yield even if you have the right of way.
7. Use approved hand signals for turning and stopping.
8. Never ride with headphones. They mask trac
sounds and emergency vehicle sirens, distract you om
concentrating on what’s going on around you, and their
wires can tangle in the moving parts of the bicycle,
causing you to lose control.
9. Never carry a passenger; and, before installing a
child carrier or trailer, check with your dealer or the
bicycle manufacturer to make sure the bicycle is designed
for it. If the bicycle is suitable for a child carrier or trailer,
make sure that the carrier or trailer is correctly mounted
and the child is secured and wearing an approved helmet.
10. Never carry anything which obstructs your vision
or your complete control of the bicycle, or which could
become entangled in the moving parts of the bicycle.
11. Never hitch a ride by holding on to another vehicle.
12. Don’t do stunts, wheelies or jumps. If you intend
to do stunts, wheelies, jumps or go racing with your bike
despite our advice not to, read Section 2.F, Downhill, Stunt
or Competition Biking, now. Think carelly about your
skills before deciding to take the large risks that go with
this kind of riding.
13. Don’t weave through trac or make any moves that

Bicycle Owner’s Manual 9
may surprise people with whom you are sharing the road.
14. Observe and yield the right of way.
15. Never ride your bicycle while under the inuence of
alcohol or drugs.
16. If possible, avoid riding in bad weather, when
visibility is obscured, at dawn, dusk or in the dark, or
when extremely tired. Each of these conditions increases
the risk of accident.
C. O Road Safety
We recommend that children do not ride on rough
terrain unless they are accompanied by an adult.
1. The variable conditions and hazards of o-road riding
require close attention and specic skills. Start slowly
on easier terrain and build up your skills. If your bike
has suspension, the increased speed you may develop
also increases your risk of losing control and falling. Get
to know how to handle your bike safely before trying
increased speed or more dicult terrain.
2. Wear safety gear like a helmet and protectors
appropriate to the kind of riding you plan to do.
3. Don’t ride alone in remote areas. Even when riding
with others, make sure that someone knows where you’re
going and when you expect to be back.
4. Always take along some kind of identication, so that
people know who you are in case of an accident; and take
along some cash for food, a cool drink or an emergency
phone call.
5. Yield right of way to pedestrians and animals. Ride in
a way that does not ighten or endanger them, and give
them enough room so that their unexpected moves don’t
endanger you.
6. Be prepared. If something goes wrong while you’re
riding o-road, help may not be close.
7. Before you attempt to jump, do stunt riding or race
with your bike, read and understand Section 2.F.
O Road respect
Obey the local laws regulating where and how you can
ride o-road, and respect private property. You may be
sharing the trail with others — hikers, equestrians, other
cyclists. Respect their rights. Stay on the designated
trail. Don’t contribute to erosion by riding in mud or
with unnecessary sliding. Don’t disturb the ecosystem by
cutting your own trail or shortcut through vegetation or
streams. It is your responsibility to minimize your impact
on the environment. Leave things as you found them; and
always take out everything you brought in.
D. Wet Weather Riding
WARNING: Wet weather impairs traction, braking
and visibility, both for the bicyclist and for other
vehicles sharing the road. The risk of an accident is
dramatically increased in wet conditions.
Under wet conditions, the stopping power of your
brakes (as well as the brakes of other vehicles sharing the
road) is dramatically reduced and your tires don’t grip
nearly as well. This makes it harder to control speed and
easier to lose control. To make sure that you can slow
down and stop safely in wet conditions, ride more slowly
and apply your brakes earlier and more gradually than you
would under normal, dry conditions.See also
Section 4.C.
E. Night Riding
Riding a bicycle at night is much more dangerous
than riding during the day. A bicyclist is very dicult
for motorists and pedestrians to see. Therefore, children
should never ride at dawn, at dusk or at night. Adults
who chose to accept the greatly increased risk of riding
at dawn, at dusk or at night need to take extra care both
riding and choosing specialized equipment which helps
reduce that risk. Consult your dealer about night riding
safety equipment.
WARNING: Reectors are not a substitute for
required lights. Riding at dawn, at dusk, at night or
at other times of poor visibility without an adequate
bicycle lighting system and without reectors is
dangerous and may result in serious injury or death.
Bicycle reectors are designed to pick up and reect
car lights and street lights in a way that may help you to
be seen and recognized as a moving bicyclist.
CAUTION: Check reectors and their mounting
brackets regularly to make sure that they are clean,
straight, unbroken and securely mounted. Have
your dealer replace damaged reectors and straighten or
tighten any that are bent or loose.
The mounting brackets of ont and rear reectors are
oen designed as brake straddle cable safety catches
which prevent the straddle cable om catching on the tire
tread if the cable jumps out of its yoke or breaks.
WARNING: Do not remove the ont or rear reectors
or reector brackets om your bicycle. They are an
integral part of the bicycle’s safety system.
Removing the reectors reduces your visibility to
others using the roadway. Being struck by other vehicles
may result in serious injury or death.
The reector brackets may protect you om a brake
straddle cable catching on the tire in the event of brake
cable failure. If a brake straddle cable catches on the tire,
it can cause the wheel to stop suddenly, causing you to
loose control and fall.

10 Bicycle Owner’s Manual
If you choose to ride under conditions of poor visibility,
check and be sure you comply with all local laws about
night riding, and take the following strongly recommended
additional precautions:
• Purchase and install battery or generator powered
head and tail lights which meet all regulatory
requirements for where you live and provide adequate
visibility.
• Wear light colored, reective clothing and accessories,
such as a reective vest, reective arm and leg bands,
reective stripes on your helmet, ashing lights attached
to your body and/or your bicycle ... any reective device
or light source that moves will help you get the attention
of approaching motorists, pedestrians and other trac.
• Make sure your clothing or anything you may be
carrying on the bicycle does not obstruct a reector or
light.
• Make sure that your bicycle is equipped with correctly
positioned and securely mounted reectors.
While riding at dawn, at dusk or at night:
• Ride slowly.
• Avoid dark areas and areas of heavy or fast-moving
trac.
• Avoid road hazards.
• If possible, ride on familiar routes.
If riding in trac:
• Be predictable. Ride so that drivers can see you and
predict your movements.
• Be alert. Ride defensively and expect the unexpected.
• If you plan to ride in trac oen, ask your dealer
about trac safety classes or a good book on bicycle
trac safety.
F. Extreme, stunt or competition riding
Whether you call it Aggro, Hucking, Freeride, North
Shore, Downhill, Jumping, Stunt Riding, Racing or
something else: if you engage in this sort of extreme,
aggressive riding you will get hurt, and you voluntarily
assume a greatly increased risk of injury or death.
Not all bicycles are designed for these types of riding,
and those that are may not be suitable for all types of
aggressive riding. Check with your dealer or the bicycle’s
manufacturer about the suitability of your bicycle before
engaging in extreme riding.
When riding fast down hill, you can reach speeds
achieved by motorcycles, and therefore face similar
hazards and risks. Have your bicycle and equipment
carelly inspected by a qualied mechanic and be sure
it is in perfect condition. Consult with expert riders,
area site personnel and race ocials on conditions and
equipment advisable at the site where you plan to ride.
Wear appropriate safety gear, including an approved ll
face helmet, ll nger gloves, and body armor. Ultimately,
it is your responsibility to have proper equipment and to
be familiar with course conditions.
WARNING: Although many catalogs, advertisements
and articles about bicycling depict riders engaged
in extreme riding, this activity is extremely
dangerous, increases your risk of injury or death, and
increases the severity of any injury. Remember that the
action depicted is being performed by professionals with
many years of training and experience. Know your limits
and always wear a helmet and other appropriate safety
gear. Even with state-of-the-art protective safety gear, you
could be seriously injured or killed when jumping, stunt
riding, riding downhill at speed or in competition.
WARNING: Bicycles and bicycle parts have
limitations with regard to strength and integrity,
and this type of riding can exceed those limitations
or dramatically reduce the length of their safe use.
We recommend against this type of riding because of
the increased risks; but if you choose to take the risk, at
least:
• Take lessons om a competent instructor rst
• Start with easy learning exercises and slowly develop
your skills before trying more dicult or dangerous riding
• Use only designated areas for stunts, jumping, racing
or fast downhill riding
• Wear a ll face helmet, safety pads and other safety
gear
• Understand and recognize that the stresses imposed
on your bike by this kind of activity may break or damage
parts of the bicycle and void the warranty
• Take your bicycle to your dealer if anything breaks
or bends. Do not ride your bicycle when any part is
damaged.
If you ride downhill at speed, do stunt riding or ride in
competition, know the limits of your skill and experience.
Ultimately, avoiding injury is your responsibility.
G. Changing Components or Adding Accessories
There are many components and accessories available
to enhance the comfort, performance and appearance of
your bicycle. However, if you change components or add
accessories, you do so at your own risk. The bicycle’s
manufacturer may not have tested that component or
accessory for compatibility, reliability or safety on your
bicycle. Before installing any component or accessory,
including but not limited to a dierent size tire, a lighting
system, a luggage rack, a child seat, a trailer, etc., make
sure that it is compatible with your bicycle by checking
with your dealer. Be sure to read, understand and follow
the instructions that accompany the products you
purchase for your bicycle. See also Appendix A, p. 24 and
B, p. 28.

Bicycle Owner’s Manual 11
WARNING: Failure to conrm compatibility, properly
install, operate and maintain any component or
accessory can result in serious injury or death.
WARNING: Exposed springs on the saddle of any
bicycle tted with a child seat can cause serious
injury to the child. Cover all springs of the saddle
and the seatpost to avoid that the child can get hurt.
WARNING: Changing the components on your bike
with other than genuine replacement parts may
compromise the safety of your bicycle and may void
the warranty. Check with your dealer before changing the
components on your bike.
3. Fit
NOTE: Correct t is an essential element of bicycling
safety, performance and comfort. Making the adjustments
to your bicycle which result in correct t for your body and
riding conditions requires experience, skill and special
tools. Always have your dealer make the adjustments on
your bicycle; or, if you have the experience, skill and
tools, have your dealer check your work before riding.
WARNING: If
your bicycle
does not t
properly, you may
lose control and fall.
If your new bike
doesn’t t, ask your
dealer to exchange
it before you ride it.
A. Standover height
1. Diamond ame bicycles
Standover height is the basic element of bike t (see
). It is the distance om the ground to the top of the
bicycle’s ame at that point where your crotch is when
straddling the bike. To check for correct standover height,
straddle the bike while wearing the kind of shoes in which
you’ll be riding, and bounce vigorously on your heels. If
your crotch touches the ame, the bike is too big for you.
Don’t even ride the bike around the block. A bike which
you ride only on paved surfaces and never take o-road
should give you a minimum standover height clearance
of two inches (5 cm). A bike that you’ll ride on unpaved
surfaces should give you a minimum of three inches (7.5
cm) of standover height clearance. And a bike that you’ll
use o road should give you four inches (10 cm) or more
of clearance.
2. Step-through ame bicycles
Standover height does not apply to bicycles with
step-through ames. Instead, the limiting dimension is
determined by saddle height range. You must be able to
adjust your saddle position as described in B without
exceeding the limits set by the height of the top of the
seat tube and the ”Minimum Insertion” or “Maximum
Extension” mark on the seat post.
B. Saddle position
Correct saddle adjustment is an important factor in
getting the most performance and comfort om your
bicycle. If the saddle position is not comfortable for you,
see your dealer.
The saddle can be adjusted in three directions:
1. Up and down adjustment.
To check for correct saddle height (g. 3):
• sit on the
saddle;
• place one heel
on a pedal;
• rotate the crank
until the pedal with
your heel on it is in
the down position
and the crank arm is
vertical.
If your leg is not
completely straight,
your saddle height
needs to be adjusted. If your hips must rock for the heel
to reach the pedal, the saddle is too high. If your leg is
bent at the knee with your heel on the pedal, the saddle is
too low.
Ask your dealer to set the saddle for your optimal riding
position and to show you how to make this adjustment.
If you choose to make your own saddle height adjustment:
 loosen the seat post
clamp
 raise or lower the seat
post in the seat tube
 make sure the saddle is
straight fore and a
 re-tighten the seat post
clamp to the recommended
torque (Appendix D or the
manufacturer’s instructions).
Once the saddle is at the
correct height, make sure
that the seat post does not project om the ame beyond
its “Minimum Insertion” or “Maximum Extension” mark
(g. 4).

12 Bicycle Owner’s Manual
NOTE: Some bicycles have a sight hole in the seat tube,
the purpose of which is to make it easy to see whether
the seat post is inserted in the seat tube far enough to be
safe. If your bicycle has such a sight hole, use it instead of
the “Minimum Insertion” or “Maximum Extension” mark
to make sure the seat post is inserted in the seat tube far
enough to be visible through the sight hole.
If your bike has an interrupted seat tube, as is the case
on some suspension bikes, you must also make sure that
the seat post is far enough
into the ame so that you can touch it through the bottom
of the interrupted seat tube with the tip of your nger
without inserting your nger beyond its rst knuckle.
In case of an interupted seat tube you must take care,
that the seat post never touches the suspension element
or another part of the ame, no matter how much the
suspension element is compressed!
Also see NOTE above and
g. 5).
WARNING: If your seat
post is not inserted in
the seat tube as
described in B.1 above,
the seat post, binder or
even ame may break,
which could cause you
to lose control and fall.
2. Front and back adjustment. The saddle can be
adjusted forward or back to help you get the optimal
position on the bike. Ask your dealer to set the saddle
for your optimal riding position and to show you how to
make this adjustment. If you choose to make your own
ont and back adjustment, make sure that the clamp
mechanism is clamping on the straight part of the saddle
rails and is not touching the curved part of the rails,
and that you are using the recommended torque on the
clamping fastener(s) (Appendix D or the manufacturer’s
instructions).
3. Saddle angle adjustment. Most people prefer a
horizontal saddle; but some riders like the saddle nose
angled up or down just a little. Your dealer can adjust
saddle angle or teach you how to do it. If you choose to
make your own saddle angle adjustment and you have a
single bolt saddle clamp on your seat post, it is critical
that you loosen the clamp bolt suciently to allow
any serrations on the mechanism to disengage before
changing the saddle’s angle, and then that the serrations
lly re-engage before you tighten the clamp bolt to the
recommended torque (Appendix D or the manufacturer’s
instructions).
WARNING: When making saddle angle adjustments
with a single bolt saddle clamp, always check to
make sure that the serrations on the mating surfaces
of the clamp are not worn. Worn serrations on the
clamp can allow the saddle to move, causing you to
lose control and fall.
Always tighten fasteners to the correct torque. Bolts
that are too tight can stretch and deform. Bolts that are
too loose can move and fatigue. Either mistake can lead
to a sudden failure of the bolt, causing you to lose control
and fall.
Note: If your bicycle is equipped with a suspension seat
post, the suspension mechanism may require periodic
service or maintenance. Ask your dealer for recommended
service intervals for your suspension seat post.
Small changes in saddle position can have a
substantial eect on performance and comfort. To nd
your best saddle position, make only one adjustment at a
time.
WARNING: Aer any saddle adjustment, be sure that
the saddle adjusting mechanism is properly seated
and tightened before riding. A loose saddle clamp or
seat post clamp can cause damage to the seat post, or can
cause you to lose control and fall. A correctly tightened
saddle adjusting mechanism will allow no saddle
movement in any direction. Periodically check to make
sure that the saddle adjusting mechanism is properly
tightened.
If, in spite of carelly adjusting the saddle height, tilt
and fore-and-a position, your saddle is still
uncomfortable, you may need a dierent saddle design.
Saddles, like people, come in many dierent shapes, sizes
and resilience. Your dealer can help you select a saddle
which, when correctly adjusted for your body and riding
style, will be comfortable.
WARNING: Some
people have claimed
that extended riding
with a saddle which is
incorrectly adjusted or which
does not support your pelvic
area correctly can cause
short-term or long-term
injury to nerves and blood
vessels, or even impotence.
If your saddle causes you
pain, numbness or other
discomfort, listen to your
body and stop riding until you
see your dealer about saddle adjustment or a dierent
saddle.

Bicycle Owner’s Manual 13
C. Handlebar height and angle
Your bike is equipped either with a “threadless” stem,
which clamps on to the outside of the fork sha, or with a
“quill” stem, which clamps inside the steerer tube by way
of an expanding binder bolt. If you aren’t absolutely sure
which type of stem your bike has, ask your dealer.
If your bike has a “threadless” stem (g. 6) your dealer
may be able to change handlebar height by moving
height adjustment spacers om below the stem to above
the stem, or vice versa. Otherwise, you’ll have to get a
stem of dierent length or rise. Consult your dealer. Do
not attempt to do this yourself, as it requires special
knowledge.
If your bike has a “quill amped mark on its sha which
designates the stem’s “Minimum Insertion” or “Maximum
Extension”. This mark must not be visible above the
headset.
WARNING: A quill stem’s Minimum Insertion Mark
must not be visible above the top of the headset. If
the stem is extended beyond the Minimum Insertion
Mark the stem may break or damage the fork’s steerer
tube, which could cause you to lose control and fall.
WARNING: On some bicycles, changing the stem or
stem height can aect the tension of the ont brake
cable, locking the ont brake or creating excess
cable slack which can make the brakes and the shiers
inoperable. If the brake pads move in towards the wheel
rim or out away om the wheel rim when the stem or stem
height is changed, the brakes must be correctly adjusted
before you ride the bicycle.
Some bicycles are equipped with an adjustable angle
stem. If your bicycle has an adjustable angle stem, ask
your dealer to show you how to adjust it. Do not attempt
to make the adjustment yourself, as changing stem angle
may also require adjustments to the bicycle’s controls.
WARNING: Always tighten fasteners to the correct
torque. Bolts that are too tight can stretch and
deform. Bolts that are too loose can move and
fatigue. Either mistake can lead to a sudden failure of the
bolt, causing you to lose control and fall.
Your dealer can also change the angle of the handlebar
or bar end extensions.
WARNING: An insuciently tightened stem clamp
bolt, handlebar clamp bolt or bar end extension
clamping bolt may compromise steering action,
which could cause you to lose control and fall. Place the
ont wheel of the bicycle between your legs and attempt
to twist the handlebar/stem assembly. If you can twist the
stem in relation to the ont wheel, turn the handlebars in
relation to the stem, or turn the bar end extensions in
relation to the handlebar, the bolts are insuciently
tightened.
WARNING: Be aware that adding aerodynamic
extensions to handlebars will change the steering
and braking response of the bicycle.
D. Control position adjustments
The angle of the brake and shi control levers and their
position on the handlebars can be changed. Ask your
dealer to make the adjustments for you. If you choose to
make your own control lever angle adjustment, be sure to
re-tighten the clamp fasteners to the recommended torque
(Appendix D or the manufacturer’s instructions).
E. Brake reach
Many bikes have brake levers which can be adjusted
for reach. If you have small hands or nd it dicult to
squeeze the brake levers, your dealer can either adjust
the reach or t shorter reach brake levers.
WARNING: The shorter the brake lever reach, the
more critical it is to have correctly adjusted brakes,
so that ll braking power can be applied within
available brake lever travel. Make shure, that the brake
levers never touches the handlebar or the grips, no matter
how hard you pull them. Brake lever travel insucient to
apply ll braking power can result in loss of control,
which may result in serious injury or death.
4. Tech
It’s important to your safety, performance and
enjoyment to understand how things work on your
bicycle. We urge you to ask your dealer how to do the
things described in this section before you attempt them
yourself, and that you have your dealer check your work
before you ride the bike. If you have even the slightest
doubt as to whether you understand something in this
section of the Manual, talk to your dealer. See also
Appendix A, B, C and D.
A. Wheels
Bicycle wheels are designed to be removable for easier
transportation and for repair of a tire puncture. In most
cases, the wheel axles are inserted into slots, called
“dropouts” in the fork and ame, but some mountain
and road bikes use what is called a “through axle” wheel
mounting system.

14 Bicycle Owner’s Manual
If you have a mountain or road bike equipped with
through axle ont or rear wheels, make sure that your
dealer has given you the manufacturer’s instructions, and
follow those when installing or removing a through axle
wheel. If you don’t know what a through axle is, ask your
dealer.
If you do not have a bicycle with a through-axle wheel
mounting system, it will have wheels secured in one of
three ways:
• A hollow axle with a sha (“skewer”) running through
it which has an
adjustable tension nut on one end and an over-center cam
on the other (cam action system, g.8 a & b)
• A hollow axle with a sha (“skewer”) running through
it which has a nut on one end and a tting for a hex key,
lock lever or other tightening device on the other (through
bolt, g. 9)
• Hex nuts or hex key bolts which are threaded on to or
into the hub axle (bolt-on wheel, g. 10)
Your bicycle may be equipped with a dierent securing
method for the ont wheel than for the rear wheel.
Discuss the wheel securing method for your bicycle with
your dealer.
It is very important that you understand the type of wheel
securing method on your bicycle, that you know how to
secure the wheels correctly, and that you know how to
apply the correct clamping force that safely secures the
wheel. Ask your dealer to instruct you in correct wheel
removal and installation, and ask him to give you any
available manufacturer’s instructions.
WARNING: Riding with an improperly secured wheel
can allow the wheel to wobble or fall o the bicycle,
which can cause serious injury or death. Therefore,
it is essential that you:
1. Ask your dealer to help you make sure you know how
to install and remove your wheels safely.
2. Understand and apply the correct technique for
clamping your wheel in place.
3. Each time, before you ride the bike, check that the
wheel is securely clamped.
The clamping action of a correctly secured wheel must
emboss the surfaces of the dropouts.
1. Front Wheel Secondary Retention Devices
Most bicycles have ont forks which utilize a secondary
wheel retention device to reduce the risk of the wheel
disengaging om the fork if the wheel is incorrectly
secured. Secondary retention devices are not a substitute
for correctly securing your ont wheel.
Secondary retention devices fall into two basic
categories:
a. The clip-on type is a part which the manufacturer
adds to the ont wheel hub or ont fork.
b. The integral type is molded, cast or machined into
the outer faces of the ont fork dropouts.
Ask your dealer to explain the particular secondary
retention device on your bike.
WARNING: Do not remove or disable the secondary
retention device. As its name implies, it serves as a
back-up for a critical adjustment. If the wheel is not
secured correctly, the secondary retention device can
reduce the risk of the wheel disengaging om the fork.
Removing or disabling the secondary retention device may
also void the warranty.
Secondary retention devices are not a substitute for
correctly securing your wheel. Failure to properly secure
the wheel can cause the wheel to wobble or disengage,
which could cause you to loose control and fall, resulting
in serious injury or death.

Bicycle Owner’s Manual 15
2. Wheels with cam action systems
There are currently two types of over-center cam wheel
retention mechanisms: the traditional over-center cam
(g. 8a) and the cam-and-cup system (g. 8b). Both use
an over-center cam action to clamp the bike’s wheel in
place. Your bicycle may have a cam-and-cup ont wheel
retention system and a traditional rear wheel cam action
system.
a. Adjusting the traditional cam action mechanism
(g. 8a)
The wheel hub is clamped in place by the force of
the over-center cam pushing against one dropout and
pulling the tension adjusting nut, by way of the skewer,
against the other dropout. The amount of clamping force
is controlled by the tension adjusting nut. Turning the
tension adjusting nut clockwise while keeping the opened
cam lever om rotating increases clamping force; turning
it counterclockwise while keeping the opened cam lever
om rotating reduces clamping force. Less than half a
turn of the tension adjusting nut can make the dierence
between safe clamping force and unsafe clamping force.
WARNING: The ll force of the cam action is needed
to clamp the wheel securely. Holding the nut with
one hand and turning the lever like a wing nut with
the other hand until everything is as tight as you can get it
will not clamp a cam action wheel safely in the dropouts.
See also the rst WARNING in this Section, p. 18.
b. Adjusting the cam-and-cup mechanism (g. 8b)
The cam-and-cup system on your ont wheel will have
been correctly adjusted for your bicycle by your dealer.
Ask your dealer to check the adjustment every six months.
Do not use a cam-and-cup ont wheel on any bicycle other
than the one for which your dealer adjusted it.
3. Removing and Installing wheels
WARNING: If your bike is equipped with a hub brake
such as a rear coaster brake, ont or rear drum,
band or roller brake; or if it has an internal gear rear
hub, do not attempt to remove the wheel. The removal and
re-installation of most hub brakes and internal gear hubs
requires special knowledge. Incorrect removal or
assembly can result in brake or gear failure, which can
cause you to lose control and fall.
CAUTION: If your bike has a disc brake, exercise care in
touching the rotor or caliper. Disc rotors have sharp edges,
and both rotor and caliper can get very hot during use.
a. Removing a disk brake or rim brake Front Wheel
(1) If your bike has rim brakes, disengage the brake’s
quick-release mechanism to increase the clearance
between the tire and the brake pads (See Section 4.C g.
11 through 15).
(2) If your bike has cam action ont wheel retention,
move the cam lever om the locked or CLOSED position
to the OPEN position (gs. 8a & b). If your bike has
through bolt or bolt-on ont wheel retention, loosen
the fastener(s) a few turns counter-clockwise using an
appropriate wrench, lock key or the integral lever.
(3) If your ont fork has a clip-on type secondary
retention device, disengage it. If your ont fork has an
integral secondary retention device, and a traditional cam
action system (g. 8a) loosen the tension adjusting nut
enough to allow removing the wheel om the dropouts.
If your ont wheel uses a cam-and-cup system, (g. 8b)
squeeze the cup and cam lever together while removing
the wheel. No rotation of any part is necessary with the
cam-and-cup system.
You may need to tap the top of the wheel with the palm
of your hand to release the wheel om the ont fork.
b. Installing a disk brake or rim brake Front Wheel
CAUTION: If your bike is equipped with a ont disk
brake, be carel not to damage the disk, caliper or
brake pads when re-inserting the disk into the
caliper. Never activate a disk brake’s control lever unless
the disk is correctly inserted in the caliper and the bike is
in an upright position. See also Section 4.C.
(1) If your bike has cam action ont wheel retention,
move the cam lever so that it curves away om the wheel
(g. 8b). This is the OPEN position. If your bike has
through bolt or bolt-on ont wheel retention, go to the
next step. Make shure that the brake disc is positioned on
the correct side so it can t in the caliper.
(2) With the steering fork facing forward, insert the
wheel between the fork blades so that the axle seats
rmly at the top of the fork dropouts. The cam lever, if
there is one, should be on rider’s le side of the bicycle
(g. 8a & b). If your bike has a clip-on type secondary
retention device, engage it.
(3) If you have a traditional cam action mechanism:
holding the cam lever in the ADJUST position with your
right hand, tighten the tension adjusting nut with your le
hand until it is nger tight against the fork dropout (g.
8a). If you have a cam-and-cup system: the nut and cup
(g. 8b) will have snapped into the recessed area of the
fork dropouts and no adjustment should be required.
(4) While pushing the wheel rmly to the top of the slots
in the fork dropouts, and at the same time centering the
wheel rim in the fork:
(a) With a cam action system, move the cam lever
upwards and swing it into the CLOSED position (g. 8a
& b). The lever should now be parallel to the fork blade
and curved toward the wheel. It should point backwards
to avoid being opened by contact wile riding. To apply
enough clamping force, you should have to wrap your
ngers around the fork blade for leverage, and the lever

16 Bicycle Owner’s Manual
should leave a clear imprint in the palm of your hand.
(b) With a through-bolt or bolt-on system, tighten the
fasteners to the torque specications in Appendix D or the
hub manufacturer’s instructions.
NOTE: If, on a traditional cam action system, the lever
cannot be pushed all the way to a position parallel to the
fork blade, return the lever to the OPEN position. Then
turn the tension adjusting nut counterclockwise one-
quarter turn and try tightening the lever again.
D (6) With a through-bolt or bolt-on system, tighten the
fasteners to the torque specications in Appendix D or the
hub manufacturer’s instructions.
WARNING: Securely clamping the wheel with a cam
action retention device takes considerable force. If
you can lly close the cam lever without wrapping
your ngers around the fork blade for leverage, the lever
does not leave a clear imprint in the palm of your hand,
and the serrations on the wheel fastener do not emboss
the surfaces of the dropouts, the tension is insucient.
Open the lever; turn the tension adjusting nut clockwise a
quarter turn; then try again. See also the rst WARNING in
this Section, p. 18.
(6) If you disengaged the brake quick-release
mechanism in 3. a. (1) above, re-engage it to restore
correct brake pad-to-rim clearance.
(7) Spin the wheel to make sure that it is centered in
the ame and clears the brake pads; then squeeze the
brake lever and make sure that the brakes are operating
correctly.
c. Removing a disk brake or rim brake Rear Wheel
(1) If you have a multi-speed bike with a derailleur gear
system: shi the rear derailleur to high gear (the smallest,
outermost rear sprocket).
If you have an internal gear rear hub, consult your
dealer or the hub manufacturer’s instructions before
attempting to remove the rear wheel.
If you have a single-speed bike with rim or disk brake,
go to step (4) below.
(2) If your bike has rim brakes, disengage the brake’s
quick-release mechanism to increase the clearance
between the wheel rim and the brake pads (see Section
4.C, gs. 11 through 15).
(3) On a derailleur gear system, pull the derailleur body
back with your right hand.
(4) With a cam action mechanism, move the quick-
release lever to the OPEN position (g. 8b). With a
through bolt or bolt on mechanism, loosen the fastener(s)
with an appropriate wrench, lock lever or integral lever;
then push the wheel forward far enough to be able to
remove the chain om the rear sprocket.
(5) Li the rear wheel o the ground a few inches and
remove it om the rear dropouts.
d. Installing a disk brake or rim brake Rear Wheel
CAUTION: If your bike is equipped with a rear disk
brake, be carel not to damage the disk, caliper or
brake pads when re-inserting the disk into the
caliper. Never activate a disk brake’s control lever unless
the disk is correctly inserted in the caliper and the bike is
in an upright position.
(1) With a cam action system, move the cam lever to
the OPEN position (see g. 8 a & b). The lever should
be on the side of the wheel opposite the derailleur and
eewheel sprockets.
(2) On a derailleur bike, make sure that the rear
derailleur is still in its outermost, high gear, position;
then pull the derailleur body back with your right hand.
Put the upper part of the chain on top of the smallest
eewheel sprocket.
(3) On single-speed or an internal gear hub, remove
the chain om the ont sprocket, so that you have plenty
of slack in the chain. Put the chain on the rear wheel
sprocket.
(4) Then, insert the wheel into the ame dropouts and
pull it all the way in to the dropouts. Make shure that the
brake disc ts correctly in the caliper.
(5) On a single speed or an internal gear hub, replace
the chain on the chainring; pull the wheel back in the
dropouts so that it is straight in the ame and the chain
has about 1/4 inches of up-and-down play.
(6) With a cam action system, move the cam lever
upwards and swing it into the CLOSED position (g. 8 a
& b). The lever should now be parallel to the seat stay
or pointing backwards and curved toward the wheel. To
apply enough clamping force, you should have to wrap
your ngers around the fork blade for leverage, and the
lever should leave a clear imprint in the palm of your
hand.
(7) With a through-bolt or bolt-on system, tighten the
fasteners to the torque specications in Appendix D or the
hub manufacturer’s instructions.
NOTE: If, on a traditional cam action system, the lever
cannot be pushed all the way to a position parallel to the
seat stay, return the lever to the OPEN position. Then turn
the tension adjusting nut counterclockwise one-quarter
turn and try tightening the lever again.
WARNING: Securely clamping the wheel with a cam
action retention device takes considerable force. If
you can lly close the cam lever without wrapping
your ngers around the seat stay or chain stay for
leverage, the lever does not leave a clear imprint in the
palm of your hand, and the serrations on the wheel

Bicycle Owner’s Manual 17
fastener do not emboss the surfaces of the dropouts, the
tension is insucient. Open the lever; turn the tension
adjusting nut clockwise a quarter turn; then try again.
(8) If you disengaged the brake quick-release
mechanism in 3. c. (2) above, re-engage it to restore
correct brake pad-to-rim clearance.
(9) Spin the wheel to make sure that it is centered in
the ame and clears the brake pads; then squeeze the
brake lever and make sure that the brakes are operating
correctly.
B. Seat post cam action clamp
Some bikes are equipped with a cam action seat post
binder. The seat post cam action binder works exactly like
the traditional wheel cam action fastener (Section 4.A.2)
While a cam action binder looks like a long bolt with a
lever on one end and a nut on the other, the binder uses
an over-center cam action to rmly clamp the seat post
(see g. 8a).
WARNING: Riding with an improperly tightened seat
post can allow the saddle to turn or move and cause
you to lose control and fall. Therefore:
1. Ask your dealer to help you make sure you know how
to correctly clamp your seat post.
2. Understand and apply the correct technique for
clamping your seat post.
3. Before you ride the bike, rst check that the seat post
is securely clamped.
Adjusting the seat post cam action mechanism
The action of the cam squeezes the seat collar around
the seat post to hold the seat post securely in place. The
amount of clamping force is controlled by the tension
adjusting nut. Turning the tension adjusting nut clockwise
while keeping the cam lever om rotating increases
clamping force; turning it counterclockwise while keeping
the cam lever om rotating reduces clamping force. Less
than half a turn of the tension adjusting nut can make the
dierence between safe and unsafe clamping force.
WARNING: Especially if components (seat post,
ame) made of composites like carbon bre are in
use, never overtighten the seat post clamp!
Composites and carbon bre require a dierent clamping
force. Read the manufacturers manual for correct use.
WARNING: The ll force of the cam action is needed
to clamp the seat post securely. Holding the nut
with one hand and turning the lever like a wing nut
with the other hand until everything is as tight as you can
get it will not clamp the seat post safely.
WARNING: If you can lly close the cam lever
without wrapping your ngers around the seat post
or a ame tube for leverage, and the lever does not
leave a clear imprint in the palm of your hand, the tension
is insucient. Open the lever; turn the tension adjusting
nut clockwise a quarter turn; then try again.
C. Brakes
There are three general types of bicycle brakes: rim
brakes, which operate by squeezing the wheel rim
between two brake pads; disc brakes, which operate by
squeezing a hub-mounted disc between two brake pads;
and internal hub brakes. All three can be operated by
way of a handlebar mounted lever. On some models of
bicycle, the internal hub brake is operated by pedaling
backwards. This is called a Coaster Brake and is described
in Appendix C.
WARNING:
1. Riding with improperly adjusted brakes, worn
brake pads, or wheels on which the rim wear mark is
visible or unvisible because of rim wear is dangerous and
can result in serious injury or death.
2. Applying brakes too hard or too suddenly can lock up
a wheel, which could cause you to lose control and fall.
Sudden or excessive application of the ont brake may
pitch the rider over the handlebars, which may result in
serious injury or death.
3. Some bicycle brakes, such as disc brakes (g. 11)
and linear-pull brakes (g. 12), are extremely powerl.
Take extra care in becoming familiar with these brakes
and exercise particular care when using them.
4. Some bicycle brakes are equipped with a brake
force modulator, a small, cylindrical device through which
the brake control cable runs and which is designed to
provide a more progressive application of braking force. A
modulator makes the initial brake lever force more gentle,
progressively increasing force until ll force is achieved.
If your bike is equipped with a brake force modulator,
take extra care in becoming familiar with its performance
characteristics. Some brake force modulators are
adjustable. If you don’t like the feel of your brakes, ask
your dealer about adjusting the brake force modulation.
5. Disc brakes can get extremely hot with extended use.
Be carel not to touch a disc brake until it has had plenty
of time to cool.
6. See the brake manufacturer’s instructions
for operation and care of your brakes, and for when
brake pads must be replaced. If you do not have the
manufacturer’s instructions, see your dealer or contact the
brake manufacturer.
7. If replacing worn or damaged parts, use only
manufacturer-approved genuine replacement parts.

18 Bicycle Owner’s Manual
1. Brake controls and features
It’s very important to your safety
that you learn and remember
which brake lever controls which
brake on your bike. Traditionally,
in the U.S. the right brake lever
controls the rear brake and the
le brake lever controls the
ont brake; but, to check how
your bike’s brakes are set up,
squeeze one brake lever and look
to see which brake, ont or rear,
engages. Now do the same with
the other brake lever.
Make sure that your hands
can reach and squeeze the brake
levers comfortably. If your hands
are too small to operate the
levers comfortably, consult your
dealer before riding the bike. The
lever reach may be adjustable; or
you may need a dierent brake
lever design.
Most rim brakes have some form of quick-release
mechanism to allow the brake pads to clear the tire when
a wheel is removed or
reinstalled. When the brake
quick release is in the open
position, the brakes are
inoperative. Ask your dealer to
make sure that you understand
the way the brake quick release
works on your bike (see gs. 12,
13. 14 & 15) and check each time
to make sure both brakes work
correctly before you get on the
bike.
2. How brakes work
The braking action of a bicycle
is a nction of the iction
between the braking surfaces.
To make sure that you have
maximum iction available, keep your wheel rims and
brake pads or the disk rotor and caliper clean and ee of
dirt, lubricants, waxes or polishes.
Brakes are designed to control your speed, not just
to stop the bike. Maximum braking force for each wheel
occurs at the point just before the wheel “locks up”
(stops rotating) and starts to skid. Once the tire skids,
you actually lose most of your stopping force and all
directional control. You need to practice slowing and
stopping smoothly without locking up a wheel. The
technique is called progressive brake modulation. Instead
of jerking the brake lever to the position where you think
you’ll generate appropriate braking force, squeeze the
lever, progressively increasing the braking force. If you
feel the wheel begin to lock up, release pressure just a
little to keep the wheel rotating just short of lockup. It’s
important to develop a feel for the amount of brake lever
pressure required for each wheel at dierent speeds
and on dierent surfaces. To better understand this,
experiment a little by walking your bike and applying
dierent amounts of pressure to each brake lever, until
the wheel locks.
When you apply one or both brakes, the bike begins
to slow, but your body wants to continue at the speed
at which it was going. This causes a transfer of weight
to the ont wheel (or, under heavy braking, around the
ont wheel hub, which could send you ying over the
handlebars).
A wheel with more weight on it will accept greater
brake pressure before lockup; a wheel with less weight
will lock up with less brake pressure. So, as you apply
brakes and your weight is transferred forward, you need
to shi your body toward the rear of the bike, to transfer
weight back on to the rear wheel; and at the same time,
you need to both decrease rear braking and increase ont
braking force. This is even more important on descents,
because descents shi weight forward.
Two keys to eective speed control and safe stopping
are controlling wheel lockup and weight transfer. This
weight transfer is even more pronounced if your bike has
a ont suspension fork. Front suspension “dips” under
braking, increasing the weight transfer (see also Section
4.F). Practice braking and weight transfer techniques
where there is no trac or other hazards and distractions.
Everything changes when you ride on loose surfaces
or in wet weather. It will take longer to stop on loose
surfaces or in wet weather. Tire adhesion is reduced, so
the wheels have less cornering and braking traction and
can lock up with less brake force. Moisture or dirt on
the brake pads reduces their ability to grip. The way to
maintain control on loose or wet surfaces is to go more
slowly.
D. Shiing gears
Your multi-speed bicycle will have a derailleur
drivetrain (see 1. below), an internal gear hub drivetrain
(see 2. below) or, in some special cases, a combination of
the two.
1. How a derailleur drivetrain works
If your bicycle has a derailleur drivetrain, the gear-
changing mechanism will have:
• a rear cassette or eewheel sprocket cluster
• a rear derailleur
• usually a ont derailleur
• one or two shiers
• one, two or three ont sprockets called chainrings
• a drive chain

Bicycle Owner’s Manual 19
d. Which gear should I be in?
The combination of largest rear and smallest ont
gears (g. 16) is for the steepest hills. The smallest rear
and largest ont combination is for the greatest speed. It
is not necessary to shi gears in sequence. Instead, nd
the “starting
gear” which
is right for
your level of
ability — a gear
which is hard
enough for quick
acceleration
but easy
enough to let
you start om
a stop without
wobbling — and
experiment with upshiing and downshiing to get a
feel for the dierent gear combinations. At rst, practice
shiing where there are no obstacles, hazards or other
trac, until you’ve built up your condence. Learn not
to use either the “smallest to smallest” or “largest to
largest” gear combinations because they may cause
unacceptable stress on the drive train. Learn to anticipate
the need to shi, and shi to a lower gear before the hill
gets too steep. If you have diculties with shiing, the
problem could be mechanical adjustment. See your dealer
for help.
WARNING: Never shi a derailleur onto the largest
or the smallest sprocket if the derailleur is not
shiing smoothly. The derailleur may be out of
adjustment and the chain could jam, causing you to lose
control and fall.
e. What if it won’t shi gears?
If moving the shi control one click repeatedly fails to
result in a smooth shi to the next gear chances are that
the mechanism is out of adjustment. Take the bike to your
dealer to have it adjusted.
2. How an internal gear hub drivetrain works
If your bicycle has an internal gear hub drivetrain, the
gear changing mechanism will consist of:
• a 3, 5, 7, 8, 11, 12, 14, 18 speed or possibly an
innitely variable internal gear hub
• one, or sometimes two shiers
• one or two control cables
• one ont sprocket called a chainring
• a drive chain
a. Shiing internal gear hub gears
Shiing with an internal gear hub drivetrain is simply a
a. Shiing Gears
There are several dierent types and styles of shiing
controls: levers, twist grips, triggers, combination shi/
brake controls and push-buttons. Ask your dealer to
explain the type of shiing controls that are on your bike,
and to show you how they work.
The vocabulary of shiing can be pretty consing. A
downshi is a shi to a “lower” or “slower” gear, one
which is easier to pedal. An upshi is a shi to a “higher”
or “faster”, harder to pedal gear. What’s consing is that
what’s happening at the ont derailleur is the opposite
of what’s happening at the rear derailleur (for details,
read the instructions on Shiing the Rear Derailleur
and Shiing the Front Derailleur below). For example,
you can select a gear which will make pedaling easier
on a hill (make a downshi) in one of two ways: shi
the chain down the gear “steps” to a smaller gear at the
ont, or up the gear “steps” to a larger gear at the rear.
So, at the rear gear cluster, what is called a downshi
looks like an upshi. The way to keep things straight is to
remember that shiing the chain in towards the centerline
of the bike is for accelerating and climbing and is called
a downshi. Moving the chain out or away om the
centerline of the bike is for speed and is called an upshi.
Whether upshiing or downshiing, the bicycle
derailleur system design requires that the drive chain is
moving forward and be under at least some tension. A
derailleur will shi only if you are pedaling forward.
CAUTION: Never move the shier while pedaling
backward, nor pedal backwards immediately aer
having moved the shier. This could jam the chain
and cause serious damage to the bicycle.
b. Shiing the Rear Derailleur
The rear derailleur is controlled by the right shier.
The nction of the rear derailleur is to move the
drive chain om one gear sprocket to another. The
smaller sprockets on the gear cluster produce higher
gear ratios. Pedaling in the higher gears requires greater
pedaling eort, but takes you a greater distance with
each revolution of the pedal cranks. The larger sprockets
produce lower gear ratios. Using them requires less
pedaling eort, but takes you a shorter distance with each
pedal crank revolution. Moving the chain om a smaller
sprocket of the gear cluster to a larger sprocket results in
a downshi. Moving the chain om a larger sprocket to
a smaller sprocket results in an upshi. In order for the
derailleur to move the chain om one sprocket to another,
the rider must be pedaling forward.
c. Shiing the Front Derailleur:
The ont derailleur, which is controlled by the le
shier, shis the chain between the larger and smaller
chainrings. Shiing the chain onto a smaller chainring
makes pedaling easier (a downshi). Shiing to a larger
chainring makes pedaling harder (an upshi).

20 Bicycle Owner’s Manual
rider’s shoe and the pedal. If your bicycle has this type of
high-performance pedal, you must take extra care to avoid
serious injury om the pedals’ sharp surfaces. Based
on your riding style or skill level, you may prefer a less
aggressive pedal design, or chose to ride with shin pads.
Your dealer can show you a number of options and make
suitable recommendations.
3. Toeclips and straps are a means to keep feet correctly
positioned and engaged with the pedals. The toeclip
positions the ball of the foot over the pedal spindle, which
gives maximum pedaling power. The toe strap, when
tightened, keeps the foot engaged throughout the rotation
cycle of the pedal. While toeclips and straps give some
benet with any kind of shoe, they work most eectively
with cycling shoes designed for use with toeclips. Your
dealer can explain how toeclips and straps work. Shoes
with deep treaded soles or welts which might make it
more dicult for you to insert or remove your foot should
not be used with toeclips and straps.
WARNING: Getting into and out of pedals with
toeclips and straps requires skill which can only be
acquired with practice. Until it becomes a reex
action, the technique requires concentration which can
distract your attention and cause you to lose control and
fall. Practice the use of toeclips and straps where there
are no obstacles, hazards or trac. Keep the straps loose,
and don’t tighten them until your technique and
condence in getting in and out of the pedals warrants it.
Never ride in trac with your toe straps tight.
4. Clipless pedals (sometimes called “step-in pedals”)
are another means to keep feet securely in the correct
position for maximum pedaling eciency. They have
a plate, called a “cleat,” on the sole of the shoe, which
clicks into a mating spring-loaded xture on the pedal.
They only engage or disengage with a very specic motion
which must be practiced until it becomes instinctive.
Clipless pedals require shoes and cleats which are
compatible with the make and model pedal being used.
Many clipless pedals are designed to allow the rider to
adjust the amount of force needed to engage or disengage
the foot. Follow the pedal manufacturer’s instructions, or
ask your dealer to show you how to make this adjustment.
Use the easiest setting until engaging and disengaging
becomes a reex action, but always make sure that there
is sucient tension to prevent unintended release of your
foot om the pedal.
WARNING: Clipless pedals are intended for use with
shoes specically made to t them and are designed
to rmly keep the foot engaged with the pedal. Do
not use shoes which do not engage the pedals correctly.
matter of moving the shier to the indicated position for
the desired gear ratio. Aer you have moved the shier
to the gear position of your choice, ease the pressure on
the pedals for an instant to allow the hub to complete the
shi.
b. Which gear should I be in?
The numerically lowest gear (1) is for the steepest hills.
The numerically largest gear is for the greatest speed.
Shiing om an easier, “slower” gear (like 1) to a
harder, “faster” gear (like 2 or 3) is called an upshi.
Shiing om a harder, “faster” gear to an easier, “slower”
gear is called a downshi. It is not necessary to shi
gears in sequence. Instead, nd the “starting gear” for
the conditions — a gear which is hard enough for quick
acceleration but easy enough to let you start om a stop
without wobbling — and experiment with upshiing and
downshiing to get a feel for the dierent gears. At rst,
practice shiing where there are no obstacles, hazards or
other trac, until you’ve built up your condence. Learn
to anticipate the need to shi, and shi to a lower gear
before the hill gets too steep. If you have diculties with
shiing, the problem could be mechanical adjustment. See
your dealer for help.
c. What if it won’t shi gears?
If moving the shi control one click repeatedly fails to
result in a smooth shi to the next gear chances are that
the mechanism is out of adjustment. Take the bike to your
dealer to have it adjusted.
E. Pedals
1. Toe Overlap is when your toe can touch the ont
wheel when you turn the handlebars to steer while a pedal
is in the forwardmost position. This is common on small-
amed bicycles, and is avoided by keeping the inside
pedal up and the outside pedal down when making sharp
turns. On any bicycle, this technique will also prevent the
inside pedal om striking the ground in a turn.
NOTE: Changing tire size or pedal crank arm length aects
toe overlap.
WARNING: Toe Overlap could cause you to lose
control and fall. Ask your dealer to help you
determine if the combination of ame size, crank
arm length, pedal design and shoes you will use results in
pedal overlap. Whether you have overlap or not, you must
keep the inside pedal up and the outside pedal down when
making sharp turns.
2. Some bicycles come equipped with pedals that have
sharp and potentially dangerous surfaces. These surfaces
are designed to add safety by increasing grip between the