JAWA M-210 Manual

OPERATING AND MAINTENANCE INSTRUCTIONS
JAWA MOPED
MOTOR DRIVEN CYCLE 50 cc
MODEL M – 210
Manufacteur: ZMV, š. p. Kolárovo
Czechoslovakia
The moped is a single-track motor vehicle of simple design, easy to handle and control.
No special skill is required for its maintenance.
To get well acquainted with it, we recommended, that you read this Owner's Handbook prior to its use.
In this way you will avoid any inconvenience and trouble, and the moped will serve you to your full
satisfaction.
We wish you many happy and carefree miles on your new moped
ZMV,š. p. Kolárovo
CSFR
The design of the moped, its specifications, description and illustrations contained
herein are liable to changes resulting from further development and improvements.
CONTENTS I. Technical data
II. Controls
III. Riding instructions
IV. Maintenance and adjustments
V. Rear telescopic suspension units
VI. Toolkit
VII. Troubleshooting
VIII. Spare parts
Benefit yourself of the advantages offered to you by the automatic two-speed gearbox of your moped.
Description of the automatic function of the gearbox.
After the engine has started, the moped starts moving in response to the opening of the throttle (accelerating)
without any use of the other control elements on the handlebars (single speed moped only). By further
acceleration (increasing the speed of the moped), the second gear is engaged automatically and smoothly.
When riding uphill, the change to 1st.-speed gear takes place automatically.
In addition to this control by road speed, the moped provides for a momentous control (depending on the
turning of the twist grip).
Thus you can use the controls of your machine in the following ways:
1. Starting at full throttle - sports style riding. The change from 1st to 2nd gear takes place at a lower
R.P.M. and at a higher road speed.
2. Starting with only partly opened throttle is more economical. The change from 1st to 2nd gear takes
place at a lower engine speed and an increased road speed.
3. In city traffic, riding behind a slower vehicle in 2nd gear while decelerating by throttling down is more
economical and less noisy as when changing down to 1st gear.
4. When riding in 2nd gear at a certain steady (free-running) speed, it is possible to change immediately to
the 1st gear and to accelerate effectively by turning down the throttle.
5. Braking with the engine to a stop in the more economical and less noisy 2nd gear after the
disengagement of the starting clutch will avoid engine stalling.
IDENTIFICATION NUMBER IS LOCATED a. on steering head b. on left-hand top side of engine
IGNITION TIMING 1 to 1.5 mm before piston T.D.C.
FUEL MIXTURE 1:40 during first 400 km (200 miles) 1:50 after break in
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Fig. 1 Jawa Moped — Main Parts
1. Tail lamp, 2. Rear mudguard, 3. Tire pump, 4. Luggage carrier, 5. Tool kit, 6. Rear telescopic suspension
unit, 7. Intake air cleaner, 8. Fuel tank, 9. Fuel tank filler cap, 10. Handlebars, 11. Headlamp, 12. Frame, 13.
Front fork, 14. Front mudguard, 15. Rear wheel, 16. Exhaust silencer, 17. Pedal drive transmission chain, 18.
Pedal cranks and pedals, 19. Engine drive transmission chain, 20. Stand, 21. Engine drive disengaging lug,
22. Alternator (under cover), 23. Exhaust pipe, 24. Engine, 25. Spark plug with cable shoe, 26. Front wheel,
27. Speedometer.
I. TECHNICAL DATA
Engine type air-cooled single cylinder
Engine capacity 49. c. s. (3 cu. in)
Cylinder bore/piston stroke 39/41 (1.55/1.61")
Engine output 1.75 kW at 5000 r.p.m. ±8%
Clutches automatic centrifugal for single speed / automatic two-speed unit
Transmission of driving in 1st. gear - overall ratio 1:24.4231
moment to rear wheel in 2nd gear-overall ratio 1:13.7305
1:14.875 single speed 20 MPH
1:12.750 single speed 30 MPH
Primary transmission indented belt
Secondary transmission stud link chain
Pedal drive transmission ratio 1:0.692
Pedal start overall ratio 1:0.0504
Front suspension telescopic front fork without shock absorbers — 60 mm stroke
Rear suspension suspension units without shock absorbers — 60 mm stroke
Brakes internal-expanding shoe brakes controlled by levers on handlebars
Brake dimensions 85x20 mm (3.55 x 0.79")
Tires, front and rear 2 ¼” x 16"
Tire inflation pressures -front 2 atm (196 kPa) (28 Lbs/in²) -rear 2,5 atm. (245 kPa) (35 Lbs/in²)
Moped weight 51 kg - 112 Lbs.
Basic load 135 kg - 297 Lbs.
Speed 40 km/h
Fuel tank filling capacity 4.2 litres - 1 US Gal.
Climb ability 25%
Noise 70 decibels
Ignition 6 V, non-contact, semiconductor system
Spark plug PAL N7, CHAMPION L-89CM, L-85, L-86, NGK B6HS, BOSH - W7AC
Headlamp 6V/15W
Tail lamp 6V/5 W, 6V/10W
Speedometer light 6V/1.2W
Alternator 6V/30W
Note: Over loaded moped (max. 100 kg) decreases speed.
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II. CONTROLS
The following few controls of the moped are easy to operate:
a) Throttle twist grip (1, Fig.2) by the rotation of which the clutch is engaged or disengaged automatically
while the throttle is opened or closed and thus the vehicle accelerates or decelerates.
b) Front brake lever (2, Fig.2) and rear brake lever (3, Fig.2), by the depressing of which the vehicle is
braked and stopped.
c) Light switch (Fig. 3)
d) Buzzer push button (Fig.2)
e) Fuel cock lever (Fig. 6,)
f) Choke (Fig.7)
g) Pedals (Fig. 8)
h) Engine drive disengaging mechanism (Fig. 9)
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III. RIDING INSTRUCTIONS
Before starting check:
— brakes
— tire pressures
— amount of fuel in the tank
— functioning light (while engine is running)
— correct tensioning of secondary chain.
Fuelling
The fuel used in the moped is gas mixed with oil in the recommended ratio. Use regular gas and observe the
mixing ratio when filling the fuel tank using a funnel with a strainer when filling the tank.
Fuel mixing ratio - 1:40 during the break in period 1:50 after the break in period.
Starting a Moped
Open the fuel cock (Fig6) push in the choke pin (Fig.7) as far as it will go the pin returns immediately into its
original position but the air intake remains throttled – the engine is supplied with a richer mixture.
Two methods can be used for starting the engine.
To Start Cold Engine in Summer
a) Pull up the moped on its stand, push in the choke pin, rotate the twist grip through one-half of its rotation
range, set the pedal forward at an angle of about 30 degrees from the vertical, depress the pedal energetically
and engine should start. If the engine does not fire, repeat this procedure.
After the engine has started running let it warm up and then rotate the twist grip as far as it will go to open
the choke. Then back off the twist grip so that the engine runs at idling speed and is ready to go. Jerk it from
the stand on to the wheels and move off by accelerating (opening the throttle).
DO NOT SIT ON THE MACHINE DURING THIS STARTING PROCEDURE.
b) Starting by pedalling: With the vehicle standing on wheels push in the choke, and rotate the twist grip as
described in paragraph a). Use the pedals to start the engine. As soon as the engine fires accelerate by
opening the throttle.
Starting the Engine in the Cold Season
When the temperature drops below 0°C, it is necessary to modify the starting procedure as follows:-
Proceed with the actual starting as in point a) with the only difference that the twist grip must be turned three
quarters of its total rotation range to prevent the opening of the air intake flap. Prolong the engine warm-up
period in proportion to the falling temperature.
NOTE: For safety reasons, the starting method as per point b) is not recommended on ice and snow
covered roads.
NOTE: IF NECESSARY, YOU CAN ASSIST THE ENGINE BY PEDALLING, ESPECIALLY WHEN
CLIMBING A LONG OR STEEP GRADIENT.
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Running in a new machine
The way a new moped is run affects its life, performance, and
fuel consumption.
Therefore observe the following instructions during the break
in period.
a) Mix the fuel — regular gas with two cycle oil in 40:1 ratio.
Note: Use two cycle oil only!
b) Use this fuel during the break-in period (for about 400 km-
200 miles) and do not exceed the maximum speed over
(25 km/h for 30 km moped)
(35 km/h for 40 km moped)
(40 km/h for 50 km moped)
with the throttle opened no more than by 1/2 to 3/4 of the twist
grip.
c) When riding down a long hill do not throttle down but decelerate by applying the brakes, and never exceed
the speed.
d) Remember that the engine is cooled less efficiently when riding in the warm season with the wind in your
back.
e) Do not let the engine idle too long and do not race it unnecessarily after stopping the moped.
Braking and stopping
If you have to slow down, release the twist grip and apply the brakes by pulling the brake levers (2.3 -Fig.2).
Proceed in the same way to stop the moped. The reduction of engine speed results in the disengagement of
the driving clutch, and the engine runs at idling speed. To continue the ride, just accelerate (turn the twist
grip). The driving clutch engages and the moped starts moving. At the end of the trip stop the engine by
depressing kill switch push button and shut off the fuel supply by turning the lever of the fuel cock (Fig. 6)
Disengagement of engine drive
To disengage the drive, the engine must be off and the moped at a standstill.
If you intend to use the moped as a bicycle, (after using up the fuel) pull the driving lug (in the direction
away from the engine) and rotate it 90 degrees clockwise or counter clockwise, and then release it (Fig.9).
The driving lug will remain engaged in this position and the drive is not transmitted from the engine to the
rear wheel.
To re-engage the engine, pull the driving lug, rotate it 90 degrees, and release it. After moving the moped
slightly on its wheels, or after turning the rear wheel, the driving lug retracts automatically in mesh with the
engine.
NOTE: Do not disengage the engine drive when riding downhill. Use the engine disengaging device
when pushing or handling the moped, when testing the engine with the moped stationary, and when
pedalling to complete a trip with a defective engine or when out of fuel. When changing the
disengaging mechanism, engine must be OFF.
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IV. MAINTENANCE AND ADJUSTMENTS
Moped Maintenance
Use only water and detergents to clean the varnished and chrome plated parts of the machine. After washing,
wipe these parts dry with chamois leather.
Clean plastic and rubber parts with water only. Never use gas, kerosene or other solvents for washing
varnished, plastic and rubber parts as these solvents have detrimental effects on such parts. When hosing
down the moped, avoid spraying water over the carburettor, the ignition system, and the filling screw of the
gearbox with the venting hole.
As a safety precaution, take a short ride and apply the brakes several times to dry them after washing.
Wash the filter element of the air cleaner (Fig.10) occasionally with gas and blow it through with compressed
air.
Remove carbon deposits from hole ,,A" of the silencer (Fig. 11) occasionally with a wooden stick. At a
noticeable loss of engine power check whether the exhaust silencer is clogged with carbon deposits. The
exhaust tail-end pipe can be removed after screwing off nut ,,B".
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The gearbox oil should be changed after riding while the engine and the oil are still warm. Remove the drain
plug (Pos. 2. Fig. 13) on the bottom of the crankcase (engine). After draining the oil, it is recommended to
flush the gearbox with flushing oil. The level of the filled-in fresh oil must reach to the control hole ,,3”.
Check the oil level in the gearbox occasionally and refill it when necessary.
Single speed engine is without filler plug screw, control and drain plug screw.
(no it isn’t, some do have them & the handbooks for the older single speeds tell you to put oil in the gearbox. - jkw)
MAINTENANCE SCHEDULE
After the first 800 km (500 miles)
•Change gearbox oil. (Two speed engine only)
•Clean and adjust the carburettor.
•Tighten cylinder head nuts.
•Check for loose bolts and screws.
•Adjust and lubricate the chains and sprocket.
•Adjust brakes.
After the first 2,000 km (1,300 miles)
•Change gearbox oil. (Two speed engine only)
•Clean carburettor.
•Clean the filter element of intake silencer.
•Adjust and lubricate chains and sprocket.
•Adjust brakes.
•Check all bolts and screws.
•Check for loose wheel nuts and spoke nipples.
•Lubricate bowden cables.
After every 1,500 to 2,000 km (930 - 1,300 miles)
•Remove carbon deposits from the exhaust silencer and exhaust pipe (elbow).
After every 3,000 km (2,000 miles)
•Check oil level. (Two speed engine only)
•Inspect and clean filter element of intake silencer.
After every 6,000 km (4,000 miles)
•Inspect and clean the spark plug.
•Change the gearbox oil. (Two speed engine only)
•Clean the carburettor.
•Clean the filter element of intake silencer.
•Adjust and lubricate chains and sprocket.
•Adjust brakes.
•Check all bolts and screws.
•Check for loose wheel nuts and spoke nipples.
•Lubricate all lubricating points.
•Remove carbon deposits from exhaust silencer and exhaust pipe (elbow).
Lubricate the chains and the freewheel, and clean the brakes more frequently during rainy weather.
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Saddle Height Adjusting (Fig.14)
The position of the saddle can be adjusted as required within the range of 25 mm
after loosening the two screws.
Handlebar Mounting (Fig.15)
The handlebars are attached to the front fork with hexagonal screws.
Check occasionally for loose screws. The position of the handlebars is not adjustable.
Adjusting of Brakes
A screw is provided on the handlebars (Fig.16) for adjusting the front brake. First loosen the knurled nut (1)
of the brake by loosening or tightening screw (2) so that when pressed (pulled) toward the grip there is a
clearance of 20 to 30 mm between the lever and the grip. Then retighten nut (1). When the brake lever
can no longer be adjusted by means of set screw (2) adjust the required clearance by means of the brake
toggle (Fig.17).
For adjusting the rear brake use the adjusting nut (1), Fig. 18. If this is no longer adjustable by set screw on
the handlebars re-set the brake toggle on the splined shaft. The rear brake can then again be adjusted by
means of the adjusting nut (1) Fig.18. After adjusting the brakes check whether they are not too tight. With
the moped resting on its stand, spin the wheels and check for free rotation.
Tensioning of Chains
To take up the tension of the chain from the engine, first loosen the nut of the rear wheel spindle (Pos. No. 3,
Fig.18). Now adjust the chain by tightening the nuts (4) of the chain tensioner (2) on either side of the frame.
The sag of the chain when compressed midway with the fingers must be about 15 mm. After tensioning,
check the alignment of the track of both wheels with the aid of a perfectly straight lath, and then firmly
retighten the spindle nut. The tension of the chain from the pedals can be adjusted by means of the tension
pulley (a) on the left-hand side of the moped (Fig.19).
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Carburettor (Fig.20)
In the case of a defective carburettor, we recommend that you bring the moped to an authorised service
station or repair shop where skilled mechanics will correct the defect, and correctly clean and adjust the
carburettor. When cleaning the jets, use only gas and compressed air.
The J1KOV 2912 DC carburettor has the following parts and adjustments:
—main jet 63
—idling jet 35
—throttle valve needle set in second notch from top
—idling mixture control screw backed off from the basic adjusting position by 1 - 1 1/2 turns
The stop screw of the throttle (sleeve) valve is used for adjusting the idling speed.
To increase the idling speed tighten the screw, and to decrease the idling speed, loosen the screw as
necessary.
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Ignition
The moped is equipped with a non-contact semiconductor ignition system, which does not require any
maintenance except cleaning the spark plug. It is practically fail-proof and a defect can only by the result of
unwarranted interference on the part of the owner. Ignition adjustment is unnecessary since no mechanical
wear can take place. Ignition advance should be adjusted only of the stator screws have become loose or after
the removal of the alternator. We recommend therefore not to interfere with the ignition adjustment. In the
case of a failure go to a specialised workshop.
Timing instructions
Tools needed: dial indicator or timing pin (both available from JAWA)Procedure: Remove spark plug and
insert dial indicator into hole. Find top dead centre by turning the rotor until the dial gauge reads as high as it
can. Zero-out gauge and turn rotor backwards (counter-clockwise) one and one-half millimetres (1.5mm).
Compare the mark on the rotor with the mark on the stator. If they are in the same position the timing is
correct and does not need adjustment. If the marks do not match up, loosen the screws holding the stator
(Fig.23, E) and rotate stator until the marks are in alignment and retighten screws.
V. REAR TELESCOPIC SUSPENSION UNITS
They are of simple design, without shock absorbers with a stroke of 60 mm that require no maintenance.
Hydraulic shock absorbers are supplied on special order.
VI. TOOL KIT
Tool kit is placed in the tool box compartment.
1. universal spanner
2. screwdriver 3 mm size
3. box spanner 10 mm
4. rod 5 mm
5. box spanner 13/17 mm
6. spark plug box spanner, size 21
7. tire pump
8. steering lock
Note: Insert the tire pump into the rear part of frame with the folding plate pointing upwards and
handle pointing towards plastic cap.
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