roundhouse ATLANTIC User guide

Owners Handbook
For the Atlantic Locomotive
ATLANTIC

OPERATING INSTRUCTIONS
IMPORTANT: Read these instructions carefully before
operating the locomotive.
The following items are required for running this engine and are
not included with the model.
Fuel Butane gas. See 'Filling the gas tank'
Water See 'Filling the boiler'
Lubricating oil See 'Lubrication'
SAFETY PRECAUTIONS
This is a working model locomotive using steam under pressure
and highly flammable fuel. Provided it is operated with
reasonable care and attention, no problems should arise.
It is intended for use out of doors and must only be operated in
a well ventilated area.
Whilst the locomotive is in use, hot gasses are exhausted up the
chimney and excess steam frequently blows off through the
safety valve even when stationary, so operator and spectators
should not bend over the model.
As you will appreciate, this is not a toy and is therefore
unsuitable for unsupervised children.
Follow manufacturer’s recommendations regarding the safe
storage of Butane gas canisters.
Some areas of the model will get quite hot whilst it is operating,
so a pair of gloves is provided in the tool kit for your protection.
Always have to hand either a fire extinguisher or wet cloth when
operating the model.
2

CONTENTS
Tool kit. Page 4
Running in. Page 4
Access to the controls. Page 4
Identification of parts of the locomotive. Page 5
Preparing for operation. Page 6
1. Filling the Gas Tank. Page 6
2. Filling the Boiler. Page 6
2a. Quick filling when cold. Page 6
2b. Filling using the Pump bottle Page 7
3. Lubrication. Page 7
4. Lighting the Burner. Page 8
Running the locomotive. Page 9
Driving the locomotive manually. Page 10
Driving by radio control. Page 10
Water top-up system. Page 12
Storage between operating sessions. Page 15
Altering wheel gauge. Page 15
Trouble shooting & maintenance. Page 16
Steam leaks. Page 16
Regulator not shutting. Page 16
Radio control. Page 15
Gas system. Page 15
Identification of gas burner parts. Page 19
Service and parts. Page 20
Boiler and Gas Tank Certificate, Pages 17 & 18
(EC Declaration Of Conformity).
3
Atlantic Instruction Booklet

TOOL KIT
The following items are included with your locomotive.
One 60ml bottle of special steam oil for use in the cylinder lubricator.
One 60ml syringe with plastic tube for filling the boiler with water.
One water top-up pump bottle.
One set of spare washers and ‘0’ rings.
One spare gas jet.
One Allen key for cylinder socket cap screws.
One pair of protective gloves and one cleaning duster.
One wheel setting (back to back) gauge and key.
RUNNING IN
All locomotives are test run before leaving the factory, but will require
several hours of running in, when new, to overcome initial tightness
and allow valves etc. to ‘bed in’ completely. Also, the loco will waste a
proportion of its water and steam until ‘run in’ due to leaking slide
valves, a tendency to prime more, and simply overcoming the initial
tightness of the moving parts.
As the model heats up and cools down each time you raise steam,
screws and nuts have a tendency to stretch and loosen a little so you
will also need to make regular checks and ‘nip up’ any that become
loose. Most are quite visible and easy to get to however if there is any
steam leaking from the valve chests on top of the cylinders, refer to
the Trouble Shooting section.
ACCESS TO THE CONTROLS
For normal operation, all controls are accessible without the need to
remove any part of the locomotive; however, to give access to the gas
tank when filling, the cab roof is removable. It is held in place by
magnets and simply lifts off. There are two small studs on the
underside of the roof which locate in a slotted bracket at the front and
rear of the cab to ensure correct positioning. On radio controlled
models, the batteries on the locomotive are housed in the rear coal
bunker under the ‘lift out’ dummy coal. The gas regulator is accessible
through the right hand cab door. On manually controlled models, the
steam regulator is accessible through the right hand cab doorway and
the reversing lever is operated through the left-hand cab doorway.
The switch for the locomotive r/c equipment is under the right hand
footplate. The radio control receiver is housed in the right hand side
tank and is accessed by removing the body as follows.
First remove the cab roof, brass dome and dummy coal load. Next,
turn the model over and remove two fixing screws under the front of
the side tanks (one each side) and 7 x M3 nuts from under the cab
footplate. Carefully turn the loco over again and lift the body off
vertically. The body can now be lifted up to remove, manoeuvring
slightly to pass round the lubricator drain screw.
4

IDENTIFICATION OF PARTS OF THE LOCOMOTIVE
Radio controlled version illustrated
A) Boiler filler plug and safety valve (under dome). B) Lubricator.
C) Water gauge D) Pressure gauge. E) Boiler top up valve.
F) Gas tank. G) Gas regulator. H) Gas jet holder.
I) R/C batteries (under dummy coal).
5

PREPARING FOR OPERATION
The locomotive must be serviced before being operated. It is
important to perform all the following operations.
1) FILLING THE GAS TANK
The filling of the gas tank should only be carried out in a well
ventilated area, where there are no naked lights or other lighted
locomotives close by. Ordinary Butane or Iso-butane gas (as used in
gas cigarette lighters) is the preferred fuel, though for economy, the
larger canisters as used for blowlamps or camping stoves etc. are
better. The larger canisters have an EN417 threaded self sealing valve
on top and require a special adapter to couple up to the filler valve on
the locomotive. A special brass gas filler adapter is obtainable from
your local garden railway supplier or direct from ROUNDHOUSE.
Mixed gasses are also available and may be used if ordinary butane or
Iso-butane are not available, but see ‘Gas System’ section for more
information on this subject.
Before attempting to fill the gas tank, make sure that the gas control
valve is closed by turning it clockwise.
The filler valve for the gas tank is on top of the tank under the cab
roof. Invert the gas canister and place its nozzle over the gas filler
valve. Support the tank from underneath and press the canister down.
The gas will be heard hissing as it enters the tank and a small amount
will escape around the valve. This is quite normal and is the tank
venting as the liquid enters. After about 20 to 30 seconds, liquid gas
will emerge from the valve showing that the tank is full. Remove the
canister immediately.
2) FILLING THE BOILER
There are two methods of filling the boiler.
2a) Quick filling when cold.
The brass steam dome can be lifted completely off to access the filler
plug. The brass dome is a substantial and heavy item, being turned
from solid brass. Care is needed when removing the dome, especially
when the engine is hot, as the dome itself will be hot. Take care not to
drop the dome onto the locomotive, as the weight of it may damage
the model. Remove the filler plug / filler valve assembly by unscrewing
it. Using the 60ml syringe and plastic tube supplied, fill the boiler fully
6

to the top with clean water. Distilled water is recommended if
available. As an alternative in soft water areas, clean tap water can be
used. Also, rain water or water from a dehumidifier may be used
provided that it is adequately filtered.
Many people use rain water passed through a wine or coffee filter to
remove any particles or debris. Do not use deionised water as this
type of water in the long term, may cause damage to the boiler and
fittings.
There has to be a space above the water to allow steam to be raised
so, insert the end of the plastic pipe into the boiler and withdraw 30ml
of water with the syringe. Replace the filler plug finger tight, and then
place the brass dome over it. Note that there is a rubber ‘O’ ring
around the body of the filler plug which helps retain the dome during
normal operation.
2b) Filling using the Pump bottle when hot or cold.
The boiler filler valve is situated in the cab to the right of the steam
turret. Fill the pump bottle with clean water and press the end of the
tube into the top-up valve. The socket has a slight taper in it, and a
little downward pressure on the tube will ensure a good seal.
Pump the handle on the bottle to inject water into the boiler whilst
maintaining downward pressure on the tube. Keep pumping until the
water level in the water gauge (located inside the cab), is almost at
the top of the glass.
Remove the plastic tube. Note that a small amount of water will
remain in the top of the valve but will evaporate away as the valve
heats up.
3) LUBRICATION
Regular lubrication of all working parts is important and should be
carried out before each operating session. There are two types of
lubrication required: The external moving linkages and bearings are
lubricated with a medium oil such as motor engine oil, and the internal
steam mechanisms such as cylinders, pistons and valves are
lubricated with a special steam oil that is mixed with the steam.
Infrequent external lubrication will allow parts to run dry, and over
oiling can form pools around operating parts that attract dirt and grit.
If too thin an oil is used it will evaporate very quickly as the loco gets
7

8
hot –leading to dry running. We recommend the use of a 20-50 motor
oil for external lubrication.
Internal lubrication is achieved by steam oil that is mixed with the
steam in the displacement lubricator, housed in the left-hand side of
the cab. Remove the knurled cap from the top and slacken the drain
screw two or three turns at the bottom but do not remove it. Any
water in the lubricator will run out through the drain screw. Tighten
the drain screw and refill with the steam oil supplied, then replace the
cap. Take time filling the lubricator, especially when cold, as the oil
takes time to run down and may trap an air bubble. Both cap and
drain screw are fitted with ‘0’ rings and need only be closed finger
tight.
NOTE: Only special steam oil as supplied should be used in the
lubricator and under no circumstances should ordinary oil be
substituted, or damage may result.
The gas and steam regulators will require periodic lubrication. See the
troubleshooting section for details.
4) LIGHTING THE BURNER
WARNING: Before lighting, read the ‘Gas System’ section in the
‘Trouble Shooting and Maintenance’ section so that you are aware of
any potential problems. If the gas system is not operating correctly,
shut it off immediately or damage may result.
Move the locomotive to another location before lighting. Butane is
heavier than air and small pockets of gas can collect around the
locomotive during filling.
To light the burner, hold a lighted match or cigarette lighter over the
top of the chimney and slowly open the gas regulator by turning it
anti-clockwise. The gas should ignite almost immediately with a pop
as the flame travels down the chimney and into the boiler tube. The
burner should be audible but not too loud.
NOTE as stated above, the gas regulator should be opened slowly
until the burner ignites. If opened too quickly, particularly when the
engine is cold or if the gas tank has just been filled, it is possible that
the flame may not travel back into the boiler flue but stay in the
smokebox. If this should happen, the burner will sound quite different

9
to normal and the blue flame will be visible in the smokebox if viewed
down the chimney from a safe height. Should this happen, turn off the
gas immediately or damage may result and then re-light it. If the
problem persists and it is not possible to ignite the burner correctly,
then a dirty jet should be suspected and cleaned as detailed in the
’Gas System’ section.
For the first couple of minutes keep the burner on low. This is
important, as until it warms up, the flame will be a little unstable and
turning it up too much could cause it to go out. Also, with a
completely full tank, liquid gas could be drawn off instead of vaporised
gas, which can also extinguish the flame.
After a couple of minutes, the gas control valve can be opened more
to speed up steam raising. Open the gas regulator slowly to about one
full turn.
The full range of adjustment (closed to fully open) is achieved within
the first full rotation of the gas regulator knob - any more is
unnecessary.
RUNNING THE LOCOMOTIVE
When full working pressure has been reached (about 40psi), the
safety valve will start to blow off steam. Steam generation can be
controlled by the gas valve in the cab. If the safety valve blows off
frequently during running, then too much steam is being produced,
which wastes water and gas. Turning down the burner will decrease
the amount of steam created. Conversely, if steam pressure is not
maintained during a run, then the burner should be turned up.
After a few minutes of running it may be noticed that the gas pressure
through the burner has increased. This is due to the gas tank
becoming warmer and so increasing the gas pressure. Simply turn the
gas down –this may need to be performed several times during a run.
The art of balancing steam generation to the operational requirement
by the adjustment of the gas control valve will quickly be learned.
The gas tank has a duration of about 25 minutes, though this will vary
a little depending on gas valve setting. The boiler should not be
allowed to run dry, and the gas tank capacity is such that the gas
should run out before the water. When the gas is fully used up, the
steam pressure in the boiler will be seen to gradually drop until the

loco comes to a halt. Should the water expire before the gas is fully
used, the pressure will drop rapidly and the loco will stop. Check the
pressure gauge –if this is zero turn off the gas. No damage will result
if the gas is turned off immediately.
DRIVING THE LOCOMOTIVE MANUALLY
On manually controlled locomotives, there are three main controls, all
of which are housed in the cab.
1) The gas regulator, which should be used to control steam
generation as described earlier.
2) The reversing lever. This is in the left-hand side of the cab and is
moved fully forward for running in a forward direction and full back to
run in the reverse direction. It should be parked in the centre (mid
gear) when the locomotive is stationary for any length of time. When
in mid gear position, the valve gear is effectively in neutral and the
engine will not move under steam power.
3) The regulator. This is the main steam control valve and regulates
the speed at which the engine will run. The regulator handle is
situated in the right hand cab doorway and is moved anti-clockwise to
open and clockwise to close.
Using the reversing lever, select the desired direction of travel and
open the regulator a little. Initially, there will be a certain amount of
water in the pipes and cylinders, which will exhaust through the
chimney and, after a few moments, the engine will move jerkily, until
this clears.
Once the parts have warmed up, the engine will move off steadily and
its’ speed can be controlled with the regulator. Subsequent starts will
be quite smooth once the cylinders etc. have reached their normal
operating temperature.
To reverse the locomotive, close the regulator to bring it to a halt,
move the reversing lever over and open the regulator again.
The art of fine control will soon be learnt with a little practice.
DRIVING BY RADIO CONTROL
This model is fitted with 2.4 GHz R/C equipment. On a Radio
Controlled model, speed and direction are controlled by the
transmitter. First, turn on the transmitter and then switch on the
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receiver on the locomotive with the switch on the underside of the
right hand side tank. The left hand stick on the transmitter controls
the steam regulator, down for stop up for go. Moving to the left or
right has no function.
The right hand stick operates the reverser, left for forward and right
for reverse. This stick is sprung loaded to return to its central position.
Moving up or down has no function. Using the transmitter, select the
desired direction of travel and then slowly open the regulator. The
locomotive will now move off as described in the manual control
section.
For more information on using the radio control equipment, see the
manufacturer’s instruction booklet supplied with the Radio Control Set.
The art of fine control will soon be learnt with a little practice
NOTE:
Ensure that the valve gear is fully in gear for the required direction
when the engine is moving. The model is fitted with a simplified
Walschaerts type valve gear which is not suitable for 'notching
up' (altering the cut off). Always bring the locomotive to a halt by
closing the regulator before changing direction. If an emergency stop
is required, simply release the reversing lever, which will spring back
into mid gear and halt the train. Then close the regulator. Always
ensure that the regulator is closed before switching off the
transmitter.
Always switch off the receiver and transmitter when not in use to
preserve battery life. It is good practice to switch on the transmitter
before the receiver and switch off the receiver before the transmitter.
In this way, the radio receiver is never on when the transmitter is
switched off and so should always be under your control.
When the batteries are getting low, a poor signal between transmitter
and receiver will result and control of the engine will become erratic.
The receiver batteries are housed in the rear bunker, under the
dummy coal load as described earlier.
WATER TOP UP SYSTEM
A water top up system is fitted to this model. This enables the water
level in the boiler to be monitored and topped up to keep the engine in

steam for long periods. Once the locomotive is in operation as detailed
in the previous sections, water can be added to the boiler at any time
during the run as follows.
Fill the water pump bottle from your usual water supply.
Bring the locomotive to a halt in a convenient place and remove the
cab roof.
Push the end of the plastic tube down into the socket in the top of the
water filling valve.
Whilst still holding the pipe in position and exerting slight downward
pressure, pump the handle and this will inject water into the boiler.
You will sometimes see water and air bubbles passing through the
sight glass as you pump so allow the level to settle after a few pumps.
Carefully pull the plastic pipe out of the water filling valve whilst
steadying the engine.
Sometimes, small particles of dirt will find their way in with the water
and may cause the water filling valve to leak back a little when the
pipe is removed. If this does happen, re-connect the pipe and give a
further pump or two of water to clear it. As the filler valve sits on top
of the boiler, a small amount of water will remain in the socket once
the plastic pipe has been removed and will boil off as the fittings
return to normal operating temperature. This is quite normal.
Once you start running your loco you will see the water level in the
gauge slowly dropping. Note that air bubbles may sometimes form in
the gauge giving a false reading but these can be pushed out by
connecting the pipe from the water pump to the water filling connector
and injecting some water. It is better to pump small amounts of water
into the boiler at frequent intervals as this maintains a more even
boiler pressure and prevents long waits while the cold water heats up
and pressure returns to normal operating level.
Aim to keep the water level between ½ and ¾ up the gauge and re-fill
the gas tank as detailed earlier whenever it is empty. In this way, you
can keep the loco in steam and at working pressure as long as you
like.
Don’t forget to re-fill the displacement lubricator about every 45
minutes.
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STORAGE BETWEEN OPERATING SESSIONS
At the end of an operating session, it is good practice to clean the
locomotive carefully with a clean soft cloth, and to oil all bright metal
parts.
 Do not leave fuel or water in the tank or boiler for long periods.
 Do not store in places where the temperature may drop below
freezing, as water may still be present in the pipework.
 Ensure all controls are closed and the valve gear in mid gear.
 Ensure that radio control equipment is switched off and, if the
engine is not to be used for some time, remove all batteries.
Periodically it may be necessary to wash off all traces of dirt and old
oil from the moving parts with paraffin (not thinners). This will remove
any accumulations of dirt or grit. After washing with paraffin, leave to
dry thoroughly overnight before re-oiling. It is most important that
clean oil is applied and allowed to penetrate fully into all moving parts
before the locomotive is run again. Manually moving the locomotive
back and forth will assist in distributing the oil fully. Under normal
operating conditions this procedure should not be required more than
once or twice per year.
ALTERING WHEEL GAUGE
The wheels are set at the factory for the specified gauge; however, for
those who wish to alter this to run on other peoples railways or if you
change the gauge of your track, they are easily reset with the aid of a
re-gauging kit available from Roundhouse.
The driving wheels are moveable on their axles and are locked in place
by a small grub screw. They should be adjusted so that the "back to
back" gauge supplied in the kit will just slip between their inner faces.
Ensure that the wheels are evenly spaced relative to each side frame.
Do not over tighten the grub screws or the threads in the nylon wheel
bushes can be damaged.
A pair of pony truck wheels are included in the kit. To swap these,
remove the rear pony truck by unscrewing the 6BA hexagon headed
pivot screw which attaches it to the rear frame spacer. Remove the
axle keeper plate (one 6BA screw) and swap the wheel set for the
required gauge. Replace the keeper plate then replace the pony truck.
TROUBLE SHOOTING & MAINTENANCE
On a working model of this nature, it is important to keep all working
parts well lubricated. With constant heating up, cooling down and the
13

stresses of hard work, screws etc. can work loose so, it is good
practice to check all fixings and cylinder screws regularly but
remember, never over tighten.
STEAM LEAKS
The cylinders are fitted with 'O' rings in the glands sealing both piston
and valve rods. These can be adjusted with a spanner if steam leaks
develop. They should only be tightened just enough to stop the leak,
as over tightening will affect the running of the model. Cylinder covers
are fitted with gaskets and valve chests with ’O’ rings. A little
‘bubbling’ of oil may sometimes occur around these and is quite
normal; however, steam leaking past the gasket should be attended
to. If ‘nipping up’ the retaining screws does not stop a steam leak, a
service kit is available which includes replacement gaskets and seals
and full instructions for fitting.
The valve chest screws on top of the cylinders are accessed by
removal of the dummy cylinder cover which simply clips round the
cylinder. Spring it gently out from the bottom and lift off the valve
chest at the top.
REGULATOR NOT SHUTTING (R/C models)
The steam regulator seating and seal can, after a period of time
become worn or compressed so that when the lever on the radio
control is fully closed, the locomotive still moves. To overcome this, a
trimmer is fitted to the transmitter. As wear takes place in the
regulator, it can gradually be adjusted to compensate. When no more
adjustment is possible, it is time to reset the trimmer and adjust the
linkage between the servo and the regulator in the cab. If adjustment
does not cure this problem, the internal '0' ring is probably damaged
and requires replacement. Contact the factory for further advice.
Periodic oiling of the gland will help keep the regulator working freely.
Place a spot of motor oil between the gland nut and the regulator arm
and work the regulator a few times.
RADIO CONTROL
If the radio control gives problems, always check the batteries first
and replace if in doubt. For further details of the Radio Control
equipment, refer to the ROUNDHOUSE supplementary R/C booklet.
GAS SYSTEM
Atlantic locomotives are fitted with our 'FG' type gas burner, which is
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15
set up and fully tested at the factory.
This system is designed for use with Butane or Iso-Butane gas. Mixed
gasses, i.e. Butane with a proportion of Propane mixed in, are
available, and may be used if straight Butane is unavailable. These
come in a variety of mixes ranging from 90/10 to 60/40 with one of
the most common being 70/30. The figures refer to the proportions of
the mix i.e. 70/30 contains 70% butane and 30% propane. If using
mixed gasses, always choose the one with the largest proportion of
butane. The addition of propane slightly alters the gasses properties.
This can make the burner a little more difficult to light when cold or
after filling the gas tank. Always open the regulator very slowly when
lighting, and only just sufficient for ignition to take place. Opening too
much too soon may extinguish the flame until the burner reaches
normal operating temperature.
The tiny jet in these units can become blocked by small particles of
dirt making the burner difficult to light, burn weakly at normal
operating temperatures*, burn in the smokebox or fail completely. If
any of these should happen, clean out the jet as follows.(* On very
cold days, a burner may start off burning weakly due to the
temperature of the gas but should increase to its normal level as the
engine warms up. This is quite normal). Carefully, disconnect the gas
pipe from the gas jet holder using a 2BA spanner.
Note when connecting or disconnecting the gas pipe and jet block, do
not use excessive force. Always hold the end of the gas burner near
the air holes to support it otherwise it is possible to cause damage by
bending the body.
Slacken the screw retaining the gas jet holder and slide it out to the
rear. Remove the jet from the gas jet holder using a 4BA spanner.
Wash out the jet in fast evaporating thinner (Cellulose or similar).
Blow through the jet from the front, which should clear most
blockages. Although the hole through the jet is tiny, if you hold it up
to the light you should be able to see quite clearly if it is blocked or
not. If in doubt, fit a new jet. A spare gas jet is included with the
toolkit. Do not use wire to clean the jet as this can damage the
precision hole and may upset the delicate balance of the gas system.
Reassemble in the reverse order, putting a small amount of PTFE tape
round the thread of the jet. Ensure all connections are tight. When
repositioning the gas jet holder in the burner, ensure that it is pushed

16
in as far as it will go.
The gas regulator has a spindle ‘O’ ring housed inside the body which
may need lubrication from time to time if the control becomes
‘spongy’ in operation, making precise gas control difficult.
As stated in the lighting instructions the full range of adjustment for
normal burner operation is achieved within the first full rotation of the
regulator knob, and it should only be unscrewed more than this for
maintenance purposes and when the tank is empty, and there are no
naked lights nearby.
To lubricate it, remove the knurled knob which is retained by a M3
socket grub screw (M1.5 AF Allen key required) in the side. Beneath
the knob is a back-lash spring and white PTFE washer which will slide
off the spindle. Unscrew the hexagon retaining nut then screw the
spindle out of the body. The ‘O’ ring can now be lubricated.
Replace the spindle followed by the retaining nut. Slide the white PTFE
washer and backlash spring over the spindle and replace the knob.
Note that the grub screw that holds the knob in place tightens into a
groove near the end of the spindle.
Regulator
Body
Regulator
Spindle
Knurled
Knob
Back-Lash
Spring
White
PTFE
Washer
Hexagon
Retaining
Nut
‘O’ ring
to be
lubricated
Gas Regulator
(Internal Parts)

17

Please refer to the ‘owner’s handbook’ for your particular model of
locomotive, for details on correct use of these pressure vessels.
Pressure vessel care and maintenance
Gas tank
The gas tank is used for the storage of LPG (liquefied petroleum gas)
in the form of butane, iso-butane or as set out in the ‘owners
handbook’.
The tank is fitted with a self-venting filler valve which contains no
serviceable parts. Should the filler valve become defective in any way,
it must be replaced with a new item.
It is recommended that the gas tank should undergo the following
checks, carried out by a ‘competent person’, club, society or pressure
vessel manufacturer every year:-
1) Thorough visual inspection.
And every five to ten years:-
1) Hydrostatic pressure test to not less than 1.5 and not more
than 2 times the maximum working pressure.
Boiler
The boiler is fitted with a safety valve to prevent the steam pressure
rising above the maximum allowable working pressure. This is pre-set
to open at between 2.38 bar (35 psi) and 2.72 bar (40 psi) and must
not be adjusted to increase this value. If the safety valve becomes
defective in any way, it should be replaced or returned to the factory
for service and calibration.
It is recommended that the boiler should undergo the following
checks, carried out by a ‘competent person’, club, society, or pressure
vessel manufacturer, every one to two years:-
1) Thorough visual inspection.
2) Hydrostatic pressure test to not less than 1.5 and not more
than 2 times the maximum working pressure.
3) Steam test to check the correct functioning of all steam
controls, gauge and safety valve.
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Gas Burner
1). Superheater Pipe. 2). Lubricator Pipe.
3). Gas Jet Holder retaining screw. 4). Gas Jet.
5). Gas Jet Holder. 6). Gas Pipe.
7). Gas Burner fixing screw. 8). Air Inlet Holes.

If your dealer is unable to help, you may contact the Factory directly
ROUNDHOUSE ENGINEERING CO. LTD.
Units 6-9 Churchill Business Park. Churchill Road.
Wheatley. Doncaster. DN1 2TF. England
Telephone [phone] Fax [phone]
email [e-mail]
SERVICE AND PARTS
If you have any questions regarding this model which are not covered
in these operating instructions or, spare parts are required, owners
should first contact their local dealer.
Your ROUNDHOUSE dealer is;
www.roundhouse-eng.com
ONLINE