roundhouse Linda User guide

Linda, Blanche & Charles
Owners Handbook
For Linda, Blanche & Charles Locomotives

Operating Instructions for
Linda, Blanche & Charles
IMPORTANT:
Read these instructions carefully before operating the locomotive.
The following items are required for running this engine and are not
included with the model.
Fuel Butane gas. See 'Filling the gas tank'
Water See 'Filling the boiler'
Lubricating oil See 'Lubrication'
SAFETY PRECAUTIONS
This is a working model locomotive using steam under pressure and
highly flammable fuel. Provided it is operated with reasonable care and
attention, no problems should arise.
It is intended for use out of doors and must only be operated in a well-
ventilated area.
Whilst the locomotive is in use, hot gasses are exhausted up the chimney
and excess steam frequently blows off through the safety valve even when
stationary, so operator and spectators should not bend over the model.
As you will appreciate, this is not a toy and is therefore unsuitable for
young unsupervised children.
Follow manufacturers recommendations regarding the safe storage of
Butane gas canisters.
Some areas of the model will get quite hot whilst it is operating, so a pair
of gloves are provided in the tool kit for your protection.
Always have to hand either a fire extinguisher or wet cloth when
operating the model.
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Linda, Blanche & Charles
Instruction Booklet
CONTENTS
Tool kit Page 4
Running in Page 4
Access to controls Page 4
Identification of parts of the locomotive Page 5
Preparations for operation Page 6
1. Filling the Gas Tank Page 6
2. Filling the Boiler Page 7
3. Lubrication Page 7
4. Lighting the Burner Page 8
Running the locomotive Page 9
Driving manually Page 10
Driving by radio control Page 10
Water top-up system Page 12
Trouble shooting & maintenance Page 13
Storage between operating sessions Page 13
Steam leaks Page 14
Regulator not shutting Page 14
Radio control Page 14
Gas system Page 14
Water top up system Page 16
Boiler and Gas Tank Certificate, Pages 17 & 18
(EC Declaration Of Conformity).
Service and Parts Page20

TOOL KIT
The following items are included with your locomotive.
One 60m1 bottle of special steam oil for use in the cylinder lubricator.
One 60m1 syringe with plastic tube for filling the boiler with water.
One water top up pump bottle.
One set of spare washers and ‘0’ rings.
One spare gas jet.
One Allen key for cylinder socket cap screws.
One wheel setting (back to back) gauge and key (Manual Blanche & Charles only).
One pair of protective gloves.
One cleaning duster.
RUNNING IN
All locomotives are test run before leaving the factory, but will require several
hours of running in, when new, to overcome initial tightness and allow valves
etc. to ‘bed in’ completely. It is recommended that the model is run with light
loads for the first few hours of operation. Also, the loco will waste a proportion
of it’s water and steam until ‘run in’ due to leaking slide valves, a tendency to
prime more, and simply overcoming the initial tightness of the moving parts. As
the model heats up and cools down each time you raise steam, screws and nuts
have a tendency to stretch and loosen a little so you will also need to make
regular checks and ‘nip up’ any that become loose. Most are quite visible and
easy to get to however if there is any steam leaking from the valve chests
between the frames, refer to the Trouble Shooting section.
ACCESS TO THE CONTROLS
For normal operation, all controls are accessible without the need to remove any
part of the locomotive, however, for ease of servicing, the cab roof hinges up.
Lift the roof vertically at the front about 12 millimetres, then it will hinge
forward over the front of the cab. The gas regulator is located in the right hand
side of the cab. The boiler top up valve is on top of the boiler under the brass
steam dome. The gas filler valve is located on top of the gas tank in the front
right hand corner of the cab. On manual control engines, the steam regulator is
accessible through the left hand cab doorway, and reversing lever through the
right hand cab doorway.
The displacement lubricator is positioned in the front left hand side of the cab.
The switch for the locomotive r/c equipment is on the front of the tender (FR
Linda version) or coal truck (Penrhyn versions).
The radio control batteries and receiver are housed inside the tender (FR Linda
version) or coal truck (Penrhyn versions). Access to these is by lifting up the
dummy coal load.
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IDENTIFICATION OF PARTS OF THE LOCOMOTIVE
Radio controlled version illustrated
1/ Lubricator filler cap. 2/ Safety valve. 3/ Gas tank filler valve.
4/ Gas regulator. 5/ Steam regulator. 6/ Lubricator drain.
7/ Water gauge. 8/ Pressure gauge. 9/ Gas burner
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PREPARING FOR OPERATION
The locomotive must be serviced before being operated. It is important to
perform all the following operations. On radio controlled versions, the
equipment in the tender or coal truck must be connected to the engine.
Two flexible leads exit the engine through the rear buffer beam and
should be connected to the two leads emerging from the front of the truck
or tender. The plugs and sockets are marked with coloured dots to identify
correct pairs. Connect the two with red dots together and the two with
white dots together. Finally, couple the truck (by two link chain) or tender
(by the metal draw bar and a pin under the front of the tender) to the
engine. Use the hole in the drawbar that is furthest away from the back of
the locomotive unless you are running on straight track or have large
radius curves. FR Linda versions also have a dummy water pipe
connection on the right hand side. This is a long flexible tube attached to
the tender which is intended to slide on the brass rod which emerges
through a hole in the rear drag beam on the right hand side of the cab
footplate.
FILLING THE GAS TANK
The filling of the gas tank should only be carried out in a well-ventilated
area, where there are no naked flames or other lighted locomotives close
by. Ordinary Butane or Iso-butane gas (as used in gas cigarette lighters) is
the preferred fuel, and for economy, the larger canisters as used for
blowlamps or camping stoves etc. are better. The larger canisters have an
EN417 threaded self sealing valve on top and require a special adapter to
couple up to the filler valve on the locomotive. A special brass gas filler
adapter is obtainable from your local garden railway supplier or direct
from ROUNDHOUSE. Mixed gasses are also available and may be used
if ordinary butane or iso-butane are not available, but see the ‘Gas
System’ section for more information on this subject.
Before attempting to fill the gas tank, make sure that the gas regulator
control valve is closed by turning it clockwise. The filler valve is on top of
the gas tank in the right hand side of the cab and is accessed by lifting the
roof as described earlier. Invert the gas canister and place its nozzle over
the gas filler valve. Support the tank from underneath and press the
canister down. The gas will be heard hissing as it enters the tank and a
small amount will escape around the valve. This is quite normal and is the
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tank venting as the liquid enters. After about 30 to 40 seconds, liquid gas
will emerge from the valve showing that the tank is full. Remove the
canister immediately.
FILLING THE BOILER
A syringe and plastic pipe are supplied for filling of the boiler.
The boiler is filled with water through the filler plug, housed under the
polished brass dome on top of the saddle tank. Care is needed when
removing the dome, especially when the engine is hot, as the dome itself
will be hot. Take care not to drop the it onto the locomotive, as the weight
of it may damage the model. Lift off the dome then remove the filler plug
by unscrewing it. Fill the boiler right to the top with clean water. Distilled
water is recommended if available. As an alternative to distilled water if
this is unavailable, clean tap water can be used in soft water areas. Also,
rain water or water from a dehumidifier can be used provided that it is
adequately filtered Many people now use rain water passed through a
wine or coffee filter to remove any particles or debris in the water. Do not
use deionised water as this type of water may cause long term damage to
the boiler and fittings. There has to be a space above the water to allow
steam to be raised so, insert the end of the plastic pipe into the boiler and
withdraw 30ml of water with the syringe. Replace the filler plug finger
tight then place the dome over it.
Due to the design considerations of this locomotive, the boiler capacity is
such that the water will need topping up midway through a run or as
required.
LUBRICATION
Regular lubrication of all working parts is important and should be carried
out before each operating session. There are two types of lubrication
required: The external moving linkages and bearings are lubricated with a
medium oil such as motor engine oil, and the internal steam mechanisms
such as cylinders, pistons and valves are lubricated with a special steam
oil that is mixed with the steam. Infrequent external lubrication will allow
parts to run dry, and over oiling can form pools around operating parts
that attract dirt and grit. If too thin an oil is used it will evaporate very
quickly as the loco gets hot –leading to dry running. We recommend the
use of a 20/50 or similar multi-grade motor oil for external lubrication.
When carrying out general lubrication, do not forget the regulator spindles
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(see the ‘Trouble Shooting’ section for further details of oiling the
regulators).
Internal lubrication is achieved by steam oil that is mixed with the steam
in the displacement lubricator, housed in the left-hand side of the cab.
Remove the knurled cap from the top and slacken the drain screw two or
three turns at the bottom but do not remove it. Any water in the lubricator
will run out through the drain screw. Tighten the drain screw and refill
with the steam oil supplied, then replace the cap. Take time filling the
lubricator, especially when cold, as the oil takes time to run down and
may trap an air bubble. Both cap and drain screw are fitted with ‘0’ rings
and need only be closed finger tight.
NOTE: Only special steam oil as supplied should be used in the lubricator
and under no circumstances should ordinary oil be substituted, or damage
may result.
LIGHTING THE BURNER
WARNING: Before lighting read the section on gas system
troubleshooting section and be aware of potential problems. If the gas
system is not operating correctly, shut it off immediately or damage may
result. Move the locomotive to another location before lighting. Butane is
heavier than air and small pockets of gas can collect around the
locomotive during filling.
To light the burner, hold a lighted match or cigarette lighter over the top
of the chimney and slowly open the gas regulator by turning it anti-
clockwise. The gas should ignite almost immediately with a pop as the
flame travels down the chimney and into the boiler tube. The burner
should be audible but not too loud.
NOTE as stated above, the gas regulator should be opened slowly until
the burner ignites. If opened too quickly, particularly when the engine is
cold or if the gas tank has just been filled, it is possible that the flame may
not travel back into the boiler flue but stay in the smokebox. If this should
happen, the burner will sound quite different to normal and the blue flame
will be visible in the smokebox if viewed down the chimney from a safe
height. Should this happen, turn off the gas immediately or damage may
result and then re-light it. If the problem persists and it is not possible to
ignite the burner correctly, then a dirty jet should be suspected and
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cleaned as detailed in the ‘Gas System’ section.
For the first couple of minutes keep the burner on low. This is important,
as until it warms up, the flame will be a little unstable and turning it up
too much could cause it to go out. Also, with a completely full tank, liquid
gas could be drawn off instead of vaporised gas, which can also
extinguish the flame. After a couple of minutes, the gas control valve can
be opened more to speed up steam raising. Open the gas regulator slowly
to about one full turn. The full range of adjustment (closed to fully open)
is achieved within the first full rotation of the gas regulator knob any
more is unnecessary.
RUNNING THE LOCOMOTIVE
When full working pressure has been reached (between 35 and 40psi), the
safety valve will start to blow off steam. Steam generation can be
controlled by the gas valve in the right hand side of the cab. If the safety
valve blows off frequently during running, then too much steam is being
produced, which wastes water and gas. Turning down the burner will
decrease the amount of steam created. Conversely, if steam pressure is not
maintained during a run, then the burner should be turned up. After a few
minutes of running it may be noticed that the gas pressure through the
burner has increased. This is due to the gas tank becoming warmer and so
increasing the gas pressure. Simply turn the gas down –this may need to
be performed several times during a run. The art of balancing steam
generation to the operational requirement by the adjustment of the gas
control valve will quickly be learned.
The gas tank has a duration of about 25 minutes, though this will vary
depending on the gas valve setting. The boiler should not be allowed to
run dry, and a water gauge and boiler top up are fitted to allow you to
monitor and maintain the water level (see the ‘Water Top Up System’
section). When the gas is fully used up, the steam pressure in the boiler
will be seen to gradually drop until the loco comes to a halt. Should the
water expire before the gas is fully used, the pressure will drop rapidly
and the loco will stop. Check the pressure and water gauges –if pressure
is at zero and no water is visible in the gauge, turn off the gas. No damage
will result if the gas is turned off immediately and the loco left to cool
naturally. Do not add cold water to a hot, empty boiler. Never re-fill the
gas tank without first re-filling the boiler.
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DRIVING THE LOCOMOTIVE MANUALLY
On manually controlled locomotives, there are three main controls, all of
which are housed in the cab.
1) The gas regulator, which should be used to control steam generation as
described earlier.
2) The reversing lever. This is in the right-hand side of the cab and is
moved fully forward for running in a forward direction and fully back to
run in the reverse direction. The lever has a locating stop at either end of
it’s travel, which have been factory set for optimum forward or reverse
running. In mid gear, the lever sits on a third stop in the centre, but to set
the gear for running, it must be sprung outwards slightly as it is moved
forward or backwards, so that one or other of the stops sits in the hole in
the lever. It should be parked in the centre (mid gear) when the
locomotive is stationary for any length of time. When in mid gear
position, the engine will not move under steam power.
3) The steam regulator. This is the main steam control valve and regulates
the speed at which the engine will run. The regulator handle is situated in
the left hand cab doorway and is moved anti-clockwise to open and
clockwise to close.
Using the reversing lever, select the desired direction of travel and open
the regulator a little. Initially, there will be a certain amount of water in
the pipes and cylinders, which will exhaust through the chimney and, after
a few moments, the engine will move jerkily, until this clears. Once the
parts have warmed up, the engine will move off steadily and it's speed can
be controlled with the regulator. Subsequent starts will be quite smooth
once the cylinders etc. have reached their normal operating temperature.
To reverse the locomotive, close the regulator to bring it to a halt, move
the reversing lever over and open the regulator again.
The art of fine control will soon be learnt with a little practice.
DRIVING BY RADIO CONTROL
This model is fitted with 2.4 GHz R/C equipment. On a Radio Controlled
model, speed and direction are controlled by the transmitter. First, turn on
the transmitter and then turn on the receiver on the locomotive with the
switch at the front of the tender or coal truck.. The left hand stick on the
transmitter controls the steam regulator, down for stop up for go. Moving
to the left or right has no function. The right hand stick operates the
reverser, left for forward and right for reverse. This stick is sprung loaded
to return to it’s central position. Moving up or down has no function
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Using the transmitter, select the desired direction of travel and then slowly
open the regulator. The locomotive will now move off as described in the
manual control section.
For more information on using the radio control equipment, see the
manufacturers instruction booklet supplied with the Radio Control Set.
The art of fine control will soon be learnt with a little practice
NOTE: Always hold the reversing lever fully over in the required
direction when the engine is moving. The model is fitted with a simple
reversing valve gear and is not capable for 'notching up' (altering the valve
cut off). Always bring the locomotive to a halt by closing the regulator
before changing direction. If an emergency stop is required, simply
release the reversing lever, which will spring back into mid gear and halt
the train. Then close the regulator. Always ensure that the regulator is
closed before switching off the transmitter.
Always switch off the receiver and transmitter when not in use to preserve
battery life. It is good practice to switch on the transmitter before the
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receiver and switch off the receiver before the transmitter. In this way, the
radio receiver is never on when the transmitter is switched off and so
should always be under your control.
When the batteries are getting low, a poor signal between transmitter and
receiver will result and control of the engine will become erratic. The
transmitter batteries are housed in the back of the unit under a clip off
panel.
The receiver batteries are housed inside the tender or coal truck under
dummy coal load as described in the ’Access To The Controls’ section
earlier.
WATER TOP UP SYSTEM
A water top up system is fitted to this model. This enables the water level
in the boiler to be monitored and topped up to keep the engine in steam
for longer periods. The boiler will require topping up with water mid way
through a run.
Once the locomotive is in operation as detailed in the previous sections,
water can be added to the boiler at any time during the run as follows.
Fill the water pump bottle from your usual water supply.
Push the end of the plastic tube through the hole in the top of the brass
steam dome and into the water filling valve on top of the boiler and hold it
in. Take care not to touch the hot boiler fittings. Pump the handle and this
will inject water into the boiler. You will sometimes see water and air
bubbles passing through the sight glass as you pump so allow the level to
settle after a few pumps. Carefully pull the plastic pipe out of the water
filling valve whilst still steadying the engine. Sometimes, small particles
of dirt will find their way in with the water and may cause the water
filling valve to leak back a little when the pipe is removed. If this should
happen, re-connect the pipe and give a further pump or two of water to
clear it.
As the filler valve sits vertically on top of the boiler, a small amount of
water will remain in the socket once the plastic pipe has been removed
and will boil off as the fittings return to normal operating temperature.
This is quite normal.
Once you start running your loco you will see the water level in the gauge
slowly dropping. Note that air bubbles may sometimes form in the gauge
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giving a false reading but these can be pushed out by connecting the pipe
from the water pump to the water filling connector –and injecting some
water.
It is better to pump small amounts of water into the boiler at frequent
intervals. Aim to keep the water level between ½ and ¾ up the gauge and
re-fill the gas tank as detailed in the locomotive operating instructions
whenever it is empty. In this way, you can keep the loco in steam and at
working pressure as long as you like. Don’t forget to re-fill the
displacement lubricator about every 30 minutes.
TROUBLESHOOTING & MAINTENANCE
On a working model of this nature, it is important to keep all working
parts well lubricated. With constant heating up, cooling down and the
stresses of hard work, screws etc. can work loose so, it is good practice to
check all fixings and cylinder screws regularly but remember, never over
tighten.
STORAGE BETWEEN OPERATING SESSIONS
At the end of an operating session, it is good practice to clean the
locomotive carefully with a clean soft cloth, and to oil all bright metal
parts.Do not leave fuel or water in the tank or boiler for long periods.
Do not store in places where the temperature may drop below
freezing as water may still be present in the pipework.
Ensure all controls are closed and the valve gear in mid gear.
Ensure that radio control equipment is switched off and, if the
engine is not to be used for some time, remove all batteries.
Periodically it may be necessary to wash off all traces of dirt and old oil
from the moving parts with paraffin (not thinners). This will remove any
accumulations of dirt or grit. After washing with paraffin, leave to dry
thoroughly overnight before re-oiling. It is most important that clean oil is
applied and allowed to penetrate fully into all moving parts before the
locomotive is run again. Manually moving the locomotive back and forth
will assist in distributing the oil fully. Under normal operating conditions
this procedure should not be required more than once or twice per year.
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STEAM LEAKS
The cylinders are fitted with '0' rings in the glands sealing the piston and
valve rods. These can be adjusted with a spanner if steam leaks develop.
They should only be tightened just enough to stop the leak, as over
tightening will affect the running of the model.
REGULATOR NOT SHUTTING (R/C models)
The steam regulator seating and seal can, after a period of time become
worn or compressed so that when the lever on the radio control is fully
closed, the locomotive still moves. To overcome this, a trimmer is fitted to
the transmitter. This is the small lever at the side of the main control lever
and is set at the factory to the top of its slot. As wear takes place in the
regulator, it can slowly be moved down the slot to compensate. When it
reaches the bottom, it is time to reset it to the top and adjust the linkage
between the servo and the regulator in the cab. If adjustment does not cure
this problem, the internal '0' ring may be dirty or damaged and requires
replacement. Contact the factory for further advice. Periodic oiling of the
gland will help keep the regulator working freely. Place a spot of steam
oil between the gland nut and the regulator arm and work the regulator a
few times.
DRIVING BY RADIO CONTROL
This model is fitted with 2.4 GHz R/C equipment. On a Radio Controlled
model, speed and direction are controlled by the transmitter. First, turn on
the transmitter and then turn on the receiver in the locomotive using the
switch on the front of the tender. Using the transmitter, select the desired
direction of travel and then slowly open the regulator. The locomotive
will now move off as described in the manual control section. For more
information on using the Radio Control equipment, see the manufacturers
instruction booklet supplied with the Radio Control set and also read the
reverse of the Digital Data Sheet, supplied by Roundhouse. The art of fine
control will soon be learnt with a little practice. To access the receiver, lift
out the dummy coal load from the tender or coal truck.
GAS SYSTEM
Internally fired locomotives are fitted with our 'FG' type gas burner, which
is set up and fully tested at the factory.
This system is designed for use with Butane or Iso-Butane gas. Mixed
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gasses, i.e. Butane with a proportion of Propane mixed in, are available,
and may be used if straight Butane is unavailable. These come in a variety
of mixes ranging from 90/10 to 60/40 with one of the most common being
70/30. The figures refer to the proportions of the mix i.e. 70/30 contains
70% butane and 30% propane. If using mixed gasses, always choose the
one with the largest proportion of butane. The addition of propane slightly
alters the gasses properties. This can make the burner a little more
difficult to light when cold or after filling the gas tank. Always open the
regulator very slowly when lighting, and only just sufficient for ignition to
take place. Opening too much too soon may extinguish the flame until the
burner reaches normal operating temperature. The tiny jet in these units
can become blocked by small particles of dirt making the burner difficult
to light, burn weakly at normal operating temperatures*, burn in the
smokebox or fail completely. If any of these should happen, clean out the
jet as follows. (* On very cold days, a burner may start off burning
weakly due to the temperature of the gas but should increase to its normal
level as the engine warms up. This is quite normal) . On Penrhyn versions,
it is necessary to remove the cab back. This is held on by two 8BA screws
and nuts at the top and two M2 nuts under the rear edge of the footplate.
Once all four have been removed, ease the top of the cab back gently
outwards until it clears the roof supports, then lift upwards to remove the
two threaded studs from the footplate.
Carefully, disconnect the gas pipe from the jet block using a 2BA spanner.
Note when connecting or disconnecting the gas pipe and jet block, do not
use excessive force. Always hold the end of the gas burner near the air
holes to support it otherwise it is possible to cause damage by bending the
body. Slacken the screw retaining the jet block and slide it out to the rear.
Remove the jet from the jet block using a 4BA spanner. Wash out the jet
in fast evaporating thinner (Cellulose or similar).Blow through the jet
from the front, which should clear most blockages. Although the hole
through the jet is tiny, if you hold it up to the light you should be able to
see quite clearly if it is blocked or not. If in doubt, fit a new jet. A spare
gas jet is included with the toolkit. Do not use wire to clean the jet as this
can damage the precision hole and may upset the delicate balance of the
gas system. Reassemble in the reverse order, putting a small amount of
PTFE tape round the thread of the jet. Ensure all connections are tight.
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When re-positioning the jet block in the burner, ensure that it is pushed in
as far as it will go.
The gas regulator has a spindle ‘O’ ring housed inside the body which
may need lubrication from time to time if the control becomes ‘spongy’ in
operation, making precise gas control difficult. As stated in the lighting
instructions in the ‘Lighting The Burner’ section, the full range of
adjustment for normal burner operation is achieved within the first full
rotation of the regulator knob, and it should only be unscrewed more than
this for maintenance purposes and when the tank is empty, and their are
no naked lights nearby.
To lubricate it, remove the knurled knob which is retained by a 4BA
socket grub screw (.100” AF Allen key required) in the side.Beneath the
knob is a back-lash spring and white PTFE washer which will slide off the
spindle. Unscrew the hexagon retaining nut then screw the spindle out of
the body. The ‘O’ ring can now be lubricated.
Replace the spindle followed by the retaining nut. Slide the white PTFE
washer and backlash spring over the spindle and replace the knob. Note
that the grub screw that holds the knob in place tightens into a groove near
the end of the spindle.
WATER TOP-UP SYSTEM
Over a period of time the end of the plastic filling tube that pushes in the
boiler top-up valve will become a loose fit due to the heat of the fitting.
To cure this, simply cut approximately 6mm from the end of the tube
when necessary.
If the top up-valve leaks constantly, it will require either cleaning or the
internal silicon rubber tube replacing. Firstly, remove the boiler filler plug
as described earlier, then unscrew the filler valve from the top. The rubber
tube will be seen on the lower part of the valve and can be carefully
slipped off. If it is undamaged, clean the valve body and inside face of the
tube and re-fit the valve.
If the rubber tube is damaged, a replacement can be obtained from
Roundhouse.
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ROUNDHOUSE ENGINEERING CO. LTD.
Units 6-9 Churchill Business Park. Churchill Road.
Wheatley. Doncaster. DN1 2TF. England
Telephone [phone] Fax [phone]
www.roundhouse-eng.com
ROUNDHOUSE ENGINEERING CO. LTD.
Units 6-9 Churchill Business Park. Churchill Road.
Wheatley. Doncaster. DN1 2TF. England
Telephone [phone] Fax [phone]
www.roundhouse-eng.com

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Please refer to the ‘owners handbook’ for your particular model of
locomotive, for details on correct use of these pressure vessels.
Pressure vessel care and maintenance
Gas tank
The gas tank is used for the storage of LPG (liquefied petroleum gas) in
the form of butane, iso-butane or as set out in the ‘owners handbook’.
The tank is fitted with a self-venting filler valve which contains no
serviceable parts. Should the filler valve become defective in any way, it
must be replaced with a new item.
It is recommended that the gas tank should undergo the following checks,
carried out by a ‘competent person’, club, society or pressure vessel
manufacturer, every year:-
1/ thorough visual inspection.
And every five to ten years:-
1/ hydrostatic pressure test to not less than 1.5 and not more that 2 times
the maximum working pressure.
Boiler
The boiler is fitted with a safety valve to prevent the steam pressure rising
above the maximum allowable working pressure. This is pre-set to open at
between 2.38 bar (35 psi) and 2.72 bar (40 psi) and must not be adjusted
to increase this value.
If the safety valve becomes defective in any way, it should be replaced or
returned to the factory for service and calibration.
It is recommended that the boiler should undergo the following checks,
carried out by a ‘competent person’, club, society, or pressure vessel
manufacturer, every one to two years:-
1/ thorough visual inspection.
2/ hydrostatic pressure test to not less than 1.5 and not more that 2 times
the maximum working pressure.
3/ steam test to check the correct functioning of all steam controls, gauge
and safety valve.

Gas Burner
1). Superheater Pipe.
2). Lubricator Pipe.
3). Gas Jet Block retaining screw.
4). Gas Jet.
5). Gas Jet Block.
6). Gas Pipe.
7). Gas Burner fixing screw.
8). Air Inlet Holes.
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SERVICE AND PARTS
If' any problems arise with this model which are not covered in these
operating instructions or, spare parts are required, owners should first
contact their local dealer. Your ROUNDHOUSE dealer is;
www.roundhouse-eng.com
If your dealer is unable to help, you may contact the Factory directly:
ROUNDHOUSE ENGINEERING CO. LTD.
Units 6-9 Churchill Business Park. Churchill Road.
Wheatley. Doncaster. DN1 2TF. England
Telephone [phone] Fax [phone]
e-mail [e-mail]
ONLINE
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