roundhouse FOWLER User guide

FOWLER
Owners Handbook

Operating Instructions
IMPORTANT:
Read these instructions carefully before operating the locomotive.
The following items are required for running this engine and are not
included with the model.
Fuel Butane gas. See 'Filling the gas tank'
Water See 'Filling the boiler'
Lubricating oil See 'Lubrication'
SAFETY PRECAUTIONS
This is a working model locomotive using steam under pressure and
highly flammable fuel. Provided it is operated with reasonable care and
attention, no problems should arise.
It is intended for use out of doors and must only be operated in a well
ventilated area.
Whilst the locomotive is in use, hot gasses are exhausted up the chimney
and excess steam frequently blows off through the safety valve even when
stationary, so operator and spectators should not bend over the model.
As you will appreciate, this is not a toy and is therefore unsuitable for
young unsupervised children.
Follow manufacturers recommendations regarding the safe storage of
Butane gas canisters.
Some areas of the model will get quite hot whilst it is operating, so a pair
of gloves are provided in the tool kit for your protection. Always have to
hand either a fire extinguisher or wet cloth when operating the model.

CONTENTS
Tool kit Page 4
Running in Page 4
Access to controls Page 4
Coupling engine and tender Page 4
Identification of parts of the locomotive Page 5
Preparations for operation Page 6
1. Filling the Gas Tank Page 6
2. Filling the Boiler Page 6
3. Lubrication Page 7
4. Lighting the Burner Page 8
Running the locomotive Page 9
Driving manually Page 10
Driving by radio control Page 11
Altering wheel gauge page 12
Trouble shooting & maintenance Page 13
Storage between operating sessions Page 13
Steam leaks Page 13
Regulator not shutting Page 14
Radio control Page 14
Gas system Page 15
Service and parts. Page 20
Boiler and Gas Tank Certificate, Pages 17 & 18
(EC Declaration Of Conformity).
3
Fowler Instruction Booklet

TOOL KIT
The following items are included with your locomotive.
One 60ml bottle of special steam oil for use in the cylinder lubricator.
One 60ml syringe with plastic tube for filling the boiler with water.
One set of spare washers and ‘0’ rings.
One spare gas jet.
One Allen key for cylinder socket cap screws.
One pair of protective gloves.
One cleaning duster.
One wheel setting (back to back) gauge and key.
RUNNING IN
All locomotives are test run before leaving the factory, but will require
several hours of running in, when new, to overcome initial tightness and
allow valves etc. to ‘bed in’ completely. It is recommended that the model
is run with light loads for the first few hours of operation. Also, the loco
will waste a proportion of its water and steam until ‘run in’ due to leaking
slide valves, a tendency to prime more, and simply overcoming the initial
tightness of the moving parts.
As the model heats up and cools down each time you raise steam, screws
and nuts have a tendency to stretch and loosen a little so you will also
need to make regular checks and ‘nip up’ any that become loose.
ACCESS TO THE CONTROLS
For normal operation, all controls are accessible without the need to
remove any part of the locomotive.
The gas regulator is accessible through the side of the cab as is the steam
regulator and reversing lever on manual control engines.
The radio control receiver, batteries and switch are housed in the tender.
Simply lift out the dummy coal to allow access. Batteries are not included.
COUPLING ENGINE AND TENDER
The tender has a steel pin under the front which should be fitted into one
of the two holes in the draw bar from the engine. Use the first hole for
close coupling if running on large radius curves, or the second hole if
4

curves are tight.
On radio controlled versions, the servo leads pass through the rear buffer
beam and should be coupled to the leads from the tender. Note that these
are marked so that the correct plug and socket can be connected together.
IDENTIFICATION OF PARTS OF THE LOCOMOTIVE
Radio controlled version illustrated
1) Lubricator drain screw. 2) Lubricator filler cap.
3) Reversing servo (this is replaced by a
reversing lever on manual models).
4) Pressure gauge. 5) Gas filler valve. 6) Safety valve.
7) Boiler filler plug. 8) Gas regulator. 9) Steam regulator.
10) Steam regulator servo and linkage (not fitted
on manual control engines). 11) Gas burner.
5

PREPARING FOR OPERATION
The locomotive must be serviced before being operated. It is important to
perform all the following operations.
1) FILLING THE GAS TANK
The filling of the gas tank should only be carried out in a well-ventilated
area, where there are no naked lights or other lighted locomotives close
by. Ordinary Butane or Iso-butane gas (as used in gas cigarette lighters) is
the preferred fuel, though for economy, the larger canisters as used for
blowlamps or camping stoves etc. are better. The larger canisters have an
EN417 threaded self sealing valve on top and require a special adapter to
couple up to the filler valve on the locomotive. A special brass gas filler
adapter is obtainable from your local garden railway supplier or direct
from ROUNDHOUSE.
Mixed gasses are also available and may be used if ordinary butane or iso-
butane are not available, but see the ‘Gas System’ section for more
information on this subject.
Before attempting to fill the gas tank, make sure that the gas control valve
is closed by turning it clockwise.
The filler valve for the gas tank is on top of the tank under the cab roof.
Invert the gas canister and place its nozzle over the gas filler valve.
Support the tank from underneath and press the canister down. The gas
will be heard hissing as it enters the tank and a small amount will escape
around the valve. This is quite normal and is the tank venting as the liquid
enters.
After about 20 to 30 seconds, liquid gas will emerge from the valve
showing that the tank is full. Remove the canister immediately.
2) FILLING THE BOILER
A syringe and plastic pipe are supplied for filling of the boiler.
The boiler is filled with water through the filler plug housed inside the
6

centre dome on top of the boiler. This painted brass dome is a substantial
and heavy item, being turned from solid brass. Care is needed when
removing the dome, especially when the engine is hot, as the dome itself
will be hot. Take care not to drop the dome onto the locomotive, as the
weight of it may damage the model. Lift off the dome then remove the
plug by unscrewing, gripping the large knurled head. Fill the boiler right
to the top with clean water. Distilled water is recommended if available.
As an alternative to distilled water if this is unavailable, clean tap water
can be used in soft water areas.
Also, rain water or water from a dehumidifier can be used provided that it
is passed through a paper wine or coffee filter to remove any particles or
debris in the water.
Do not use deionised water as this type of water may cause long term
damage to the boiler and fittings.
There has to be a space above the water to allow steam to be raised so,
insert the end of the plastic pipe into the boiler and withdraw 30ml of
water with the syringe.
Replace the filler plug finger tight.
3) LUBRICATION
Regular lubrication of all working parts is important and should be carried
out before each operating session. There are two types of lubrication
required: The external moving linkages and bearings are lubricated with a
medium oil such as motor engine oil, and the internal steam mechanisms
such as cylinders, pistons and valves are lubricated with a special steam
oil that is mixed with the steam. Infrequent external lubrication will allow
parts to run dry, and over oiling can form pools around operating parts
that attract dirt and grit. If too thin an oil is used it will evaporate very
quickly as the loco gets hot –leading to dry running. We recommend the
use of a 20-50 motor oil for external lubrication.
7

When carrying out general lubrication, do not forget the regulator spindles
(see Trouble Shooting section for further details of oiling the regulators).
Internal lubrication is achieved by steam oil that is mixed with the steam
in the displacement lubricator, housed in the left-hand side of the cab.
Remove the knurled cap from the top and slacken the drain screw two or
three turns at the bottom but do not remove it. Any water in the lubricator
will run out through the drain screw. Tighten the drain screw and refill
with the steam oil supplied, then replace the cap. Take time filling the
lubricator, especially when cold, as the oil takes time to run down and
may trap an air bubble. Both cap and drain screw are fitted with ‘0’ rings
and need only be closed finger tight.
NOTE: Only special steam oil as supplied should be used in the lubricator
and under no circumstances should ordinary oil be substituted, or damage
may result.
The gas and steam regulators will require periodic lubrication –see the
troubleshooting section for details.
4) LIGHTING THE BURNER
WARNING: Before lighting read the section on gas system
troubleshooting and be aware of potential problems. If the gas system is
not operating correctly, shut it off immediately or damage may result.
Move the locomotive to another location before lighting. Butane is
heavier than air and small pockets of gas can collect around the
locomotive during filling.
To light the burner, hold a lighted match or cigarette lighter over the top
of the chimney and slowly open the gas regulator by turning it anti-
clockwise. The gas should ignite almost immediately with a pop as the
flame travels down the chimney and into the boiler tube. The burner
should be audible but not too loud.
8

NOTE as stated above, the gas regulator should be opened slowly until
the burner ignites. If opened too quickly, particularly when the engine is
cold or if the gas tank has just been filled, it is possible that the flame may
not travel back into the boiler flue but stay in the smokebox. If this should
happen, the burner will sound quite different to normal and the blue flame
will be visible in the smokebox if viewed down the chimney from a safe
height. Should this happen, turn off the gas immediately or damage may
result and then re-light it. If the problem persists and it is not possible to
ignite the burner correctly, then a dirty jet should be suspected and
cleaned as detailed in the Gas System Troubleshooting Section.
For the first couple of minutes keep the burner on low. This is important,
as until it warms up, the flame will be a little unstable and turning it up
too much could cause it to go out. Also, with a completely full tank, liquid
gas could be drawn off instead of vaporized gas, which can also
extinguish the flame.
After a couple of minutes, the gas control valve can be opened more to
speed up steam raising. Open the gas regulator slowly to about one full
turn. The full range of adjustment (closed to fully open) is achieved within
the first full rotation of the gas regulator knob any more is unnecessary.
RUNNING THE LOCOMOTIVE
When full working pressure has been reached (between 35 and 40psi), the
safety valve will start to blow off steam. Steam generation can be
controlled by the gas valve in the right hand cab doorway. If the safety
valve blows off frequently during running, then too much steam is being
produced which wastes water and gas. Turning down the burner will
decrease the amount of steam created. Conversely, if steam pressure is not
maintained during a run, then the burner should be turned up.
After a few minutes of running it may be noticed that the gas pressure
through the burner has increased. This is due to the gas tank becoming
warmer and so increasing the gas pressure. Simply turn the gas down –
this may need to be performed several times during a run. The art of
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balancing steam generation to the operational requirement by the
adjustment of the gas control valve will quickly be learned.
The gas tank has a duration of about 25 minutes, though this will vary
depending on gas valve setting. The boiler should not be allowed to run
dry, and the gas tank capacity is such that the gas should run out before
the water. When the gas is fully used up, the steam pressure in the boiler
will be seen to gradually drop until the loco comes to a halt. Should the
water expire before the gas is fully used, the pressure will drop rapidly
and the loco will stop. Check the pressure gauge –if this is zero turn off
the gas.
No damage will result if the gas is turned off immediately. Never re-fill
the gas tank without first re-filling the boiler.
DRIVING THE LOCOMOTIVE MANUALLY
On manually controlled locomotives, there are three main controls, all of
which are housed in the cab.
1) The gas regulator, which should be used to control steam generation as
described earlier.
2) The reversing lever. This is in the left-hand side of the cab and is
moved fully forward for running in a forward direction and fully back to
run in the reverse direction. It should be parked in the centre (mid gear)
when the locomotive is stationary for any length of time. When in mid
gear position, the valve gear is effectively in neutral and the engine will
not move under steam power.
3) The steam regulator. This is the main steam control valve and regulates
the speed at which the engine will run. The regulator handle is situated in
the right hand cab doorway and is moved anti-clockwise to open and
clockwise to close.
Using the reversing lever, select the desired direction of travel and open
10

the regulator a little. Initially, there will be a certain amount of water in
the pipes and cylinders, which will exhaust through the chimney and, after
a few moments, the engine will move jerkily, until this clears. Once the
parts have warmed up, the engine will move off steadily and its speed can
be controlled with the regulator. Subsequent starts will be quite smooth
once the cylinders etc. have reached their normal operating temperature.
To reverse the locomotive, close the regulator to bring it to a halt, move
the reversing lever over and open the regulator again.
The art of fine control will soon be learnt with a little practice.
DRIVING BY RADIO CONTROL
This model is fitted with 2.4 GHz R/C equipment. On a Radio Controlled
model, speed and direction are controlled by the transmitter. First, turn on
the transmitter and then switch on the receiver on the locomotive with the
switch on the front of the tender. The left hand stick on the transmitter
controls the steam regulator, down for stop up for go. Moving to the left
or right has no function.
The right hand stick operates the reverser, left for forward and right for
reverse. This stick is sprung loaded to return to its central position.
Moving up or down has no function
Using the transmitter, select the desired direction of travel and then slowly
open the regulator. The locomotive will now move off as described in the
manual control section.
For more information on using the radio control equipment, see the
manufacturer’s instruction booklet supplied with the Radio Control Set.
The art of fine control will soon be learnt with a little practice
NOTE: Always hold the reversing lever fully over in the required
direction when the engine is moving. The model is fitted with a simple
reversing valve gear and is not capable for 'notching up' (altering the valve
11

cut off). Always bring the locomotive to a halt by closing the regulator
before changing direction. If an emergency stop is required, simply
release the reversing control on the transmitter, which will spring back
into mid gear and halt the train. Then close the regulator.
Always ensure that the regulator is closed before switching off the
transmitter. Always switch off the receiver and transmitter when not in
use to preserve battery life.
It is good practice to switch on the transmitter before the receiver and
switch off the receiver before the transmitter. In this way, the radio
receiver is never on when the transmitter is switched off and so should
always be under your control.
When the batteries are getting low a poor signal between transmitter and
receiver will occur. This will cause control of the engine to become
erratic. Refer to the instructions supplied with the radio control
equipment.
ALTERING WHEEL GAUGE
The wheels are set at the factory for the specified gauge however, for
those who wish to alter this to run on other people’s railways or if you
change the gauge of your track, they are easily reset with the aid of a
conversion kit available separately.
The driving wheels are moveable on their axles and are locked in place by
a small grub screw. They should be adjusted so that the "back to back"
gauge supplied in the kit will just slip between their inner faces. Ensure
that the wheels are evenly spaced relative to each side frame. Do not over
tighten the grub screws particularly on insulated wheels. The pony truck
wheels are held in place by a flat keeper plate secured by a single screw.
Both the wheel set and keeper plate should be changed and are supplied in
the kit.
The tender bogies are swapped for those of the required gauge and are
held in place by a 4BA nut and screw through the centre of each. A drop
12

of ‘Loctite’ is used on the thread to stop the nut unscrewing in service.
When fitting the new bogies, do not tighten the screw but leave just
enough slack to allow the bogie to swivel.
TROUBLE SHOOTING & MAINTENANCE
On a working model of this nature, it is important to keep all working
parts well lubricated. With constant heating up, cooling down and the
stresses of hard work, screws etc. can work loose so, it is good practice to
check all fixings and cylinder screws regularly but remember, never over
tighten.
STORAGE BETWEEN OPERATING SESSIONS
At the end of an operating session, it is good practice to clean the
locomotive carefully with a clean soft cloth, and to oil all bright metal
parts.
 Do not leave fuel or water in the tank or boiler for long periods.
 Do not store in places where the temperature may drop below
freezing as water may still be present in the pipework.
 Ensure all controls are closed and the valve gear in mid gear.
 Ensure that radio control equipment is switched off and, if the
engine is not to be used for some time, remove all batteries.
Periodically it may be necessary to wash off all traces of dirt and old oil
from the moving parts with paraffin (not thinners). This will remove any
accumulations of dirt or grit. After washing with paraffin, leave to dry
thoroughly overnight before re-oiling. It is most important that clean oil is
applied and allowed to penetrate fully into all moving parts before the
locomotive is run again. Manually moving the locomotive back and forth
will assist in distributing the oil fully. Under normal operating conditions
this procedure should not be required more than once or twice per year.
STEAM LEAKS
The cylinders are fitted with '0' rings in the glands sealing both piston and
valve rods. These can be adjusted with a spanner if steam leaks develop.
They should only be tightened just enough to stop the leak, as over
13

tightening will affect the running of the model. Cylinder covers are fitted
with gaskets and valve chests with ’O’ rings. A little ‘bubbling’ of oil may
sometimes occur around these and is quite normal; however, steam
leaking past the gasket should be attended to.
If ‘nipping up’ the retaining screws does not stop a steam leak, a service
kit is available which includes replacement gaskets and seals and full
instructions for fitting. Valve chest screws on top of the cylinders are
accessed by removal of the dummy cylinder cover which simply clips
round the cylinder. Spring it gently out from the bottom and lift off the
valve chest at the top.
REGULATOR NOT SHUTTING (R/C models)
The steam regulator seating and seal can, after a period of time become
worn or compressed so that when the lever on the radio control is fully
closed, the locomotive still moves. To overcome this, a trimmer is fitted to
the transmitter. This is the small lever at the side of the main control lever
and is set at the factory to the top of its slot. As wear takes place in the
regulator, it can slowly be moved down the slot to compensate. When it
reaches the bottom, it is time to reset it to the top and adjust the linkage
between the servo and the regulator in the cab. If adjustment does not cure
this problem, the internal '0' ring is probably damaged and requires
replacement. Contact the factory for further advice.
Periodic oiling of the gland will help keep the regulator working freely.
Place a spot of motor oil between the gland nut and the regulator arm and
work the regulator a few times.
RADIO CONTROL
If the radio control gives problems, always check the batteries first and
replace if in doubt. AA size batteries are used, both in the locomotive and
in the transmitter. For further details of the Radio Control equipment,
refer to the manufacturers literature supplied.
14

15
GAS SYSTEM
Internally locomotives are fitted with our 'FG' type gas burner, which is
set up and fully tested at the factory.
This system is designed for use with Butane or Iso-Butane gas. Mixed
gasses, i.e. Butane with a proportion of Propane mixed in, are available,
and may be used if straight Butane is unavailable. These come in a variety
of mixes ranging from 90/10 to 60/40 with one of the most common being
70/30. The figures refer to the proportions of the mix i.e. 70/30 contains
70% butane and 30% propane. If using mixed gasses, always choose the
one with the largest proportion of butane. The addition of propane slightly
alters the gasses properties. This can make the burner a little more
difficult to light when cold or after filling the gas tank. Always open the
regulator very slowly when lighting, and only just sufficient for ignition to
take place. Opening too much too soon may extinguish the flame until the
burner reaches normal operating temperature.
The tiny jet in these units can become blocked by small particles of dirt
making the burner difficult to light, burn weakly at normal operating
temperatures*, burn in the smokebox or fail completely. If any of these
should happen, clean out the jet as follows.
(* On very cold days, a burner may start off burning weakly due to the
temperature of the gas but should increase to its normal level as the engine
warms up. This is quite normal). Carefully, disconnect the gas pipe from
the gas jet holder using a 2BA spanner.
Note when connecting or disconnecting the gas pipe and jet block, do not
use excessive force. Always hold the end of the gas burner near the air
holes to support it otherwise it is possible to cause damage by bending the
body. Slacken the screw retaining the gas jet holder and slide it out to the
rear. Remove the jet from the gas jet holder using a 4BA spanner. Wash
out the jet in fast evaporating thinner (Cellulose or similar). Blow through
the jet from the front, which should clear most blockages. Although the
hole through the jet is tiny, if you hold it up to the light you should be able
to see quite clearly if it is blocked or not. If in doubt, fit a new jet. A spare

16
gas jet is included with the toolkit. Do not use wire to clean the jet as this
can damage the precision hole and may upset the delicate balance of the
gas system. Reassemble in the reverse order, putting a small amount of
PTFE tape round the thread of the jet. Ensure all connections are tight.
When re-positioning the gas jet holder in the burner, ensure that it is
pushed in as far as it will go.
As stated in the lighting instructions earlier, the full range of adjustment
for normal burner operation is achieved within the first full rotation of the
regulator knob, and it should only be unscrewed more than this for
maintenance purposes and when the tank is empty, and there are no naked
lights nearby. The gas regulator has a spindle ‘O’ ring housed inside the
body which may need lubrication from time to time if the control becomes
‘spongy’ in operation, making precise gas control difficult. To lubricate it,
remove the knurled knob which is retained by a M3 socket grub screw (M
1.5 AF Allen key required) in the side.
Beneath the knob is a back-lash spring and white PTFE washer which will
slide off the spindle.
Unscrew the hexagon retaining nut then screw the spindle out of the body.
The ‘O’ ring can now be lubricated.
Replace the spindle followed by the retaining nut. Slide the white PTFE
washer and backlash spring over the spindle and replace the knob. Note
that the grub screw that holds the knob in place tightens into a groove near
the end of the spindle.
Gas Regulator (Internal Parts)
Regulator
Body
Back-Lash
Spring
Regulator
Spindle
White PTFE
Washer
Knurled
Knob
‘O’ ring to be
lubricated
Hexagon
Retaining
Nut

Description and specification of equipment covered
EC Declaration Of Conformity
I hereby declare that the model described:
Conforms to the Pressure Equipment Directive 97)23)EC
All components and assemblies have been designed and manufactured according to
sound engineering practice (SEP)
ROUNDHOUSE ENGINEERING CO. LTD.
Units 6-9 Churchill Business Park. Churchill Road.
Wheatley. Doncaster. DN1 2TF. England
Telephone [phone] Fax [phone]
www.roundhouse-eng.com
Model: LADY ANNE Serial No.:
Signed
R. Loxley (director) Dated ………………..
Vessel for Group 1 gasses and associated pipe work and fittings.
Test pressure: 34 bar
Volume: 32.29 ml
Maximum permissible working pressure: 17 bar
Maximum working temperature: 65 degrees C
Intended use: storage of Liquefied Petroleum Gas (LPG)
Year of manufacture: Same as ‘Test Date’.
Model: Type ‘A’ gas tank Serial No.:
Test date:
Steam Generator and associated pipe work and fittings
Test pressure: 5.4 bar
Volume: 255 ml
Max working pressure: 2.7 bar
Safety valve set pressure: 2.7 bar
Maximum filling volume: 225 ml
Year of manufacture: Same as ‘Test Date’.
Model: Type 1 boiler Serial No.:
Test date:
Description and specification of equipment covered
EC
ROUND
HOUSE
ENGIN
EERIN
G CO.
Model: FOWLER Se
Signed
R. Loxley (director) Dated ………………..
Ves-
sel
for
Group
1 gas-
ses and
Model: Type ‘E’ gas tank Serial No.:
Test date:
St
ea
Model: Type 5 boiler Serial No.:
Test date:
17

Please refer to the ‘owners handbook’ for your particular model of
locomotive, for details on correct use of these pressure vessels.
Pressure vessel care and maintenance
Gas tank
The gas tank is used for the storage of LPG (liquefied petroleum gas) in
the form of butane, iso-butane or as set out in the ‘owners handbook’.
The tank is fitted with a self-venting filler valve which contains no
serviceable parts. Should the filler valve become defective in any way, it
must be replaced with a new item.
It is recommended that the gas tank should undergo the following checks,
carried out by a ‘competent person’, club, society or pressure vessel
manufacturer, every year:-
1) thorough visual inspection.
And every five to ten years:-
1) hydrostatic pressure test to not less than 1.5 and not more than 2 times
the maximum working pressure.
Boiler
The boiler is fitted with a safety valve to prevent the steam pressure rising
above the maximum allowable working pressure. This is pre-set to open at
between 2.38 bar (35 psi) and 2.72 bar (40 psi) and must not be adjusted
to increase this value.
If the safety valve becomes defective in any way, it should be replaced or
returned to the factory for service and calibration.
It is recommended that the boiler should undergo the following checks,
carried out by a ‘competent person’, club, society, or pressure vessel
manufacturer, every one to two years:-
1) thorough visual inspection.
2) hydrostatic pressure test to not less than 1.5 and not more than 2 times
the maximum working pressure.
3) steam test to check the correct functioning of all steam controls, gauge
and safety valve.
18

Gas Burner
1). Superheater Pipe. 2). Lubricator Pipe.
3). Gas Jet Holder retaining screw. 4). Gas Jet.
5). Gas Jet Holder. 6). Gas Pipe.
7). Gas Burner fixing screw. 8). Air Inlet Holes.

If your dealer is unable to help, you may contact the Factory directly:
ROUNDHOUSE ENGINEERING CO. LTD.
Units 6-10 Churchill Business Park. Churchill Road.
Wheatley. Doncaster. DN1 2TF. England
Telephone [phone] Fax [phone]
e-mail [e-mail]
SERVICE AND PARTS
If' any problems arise with this model which are not covered in these
operating instructions or, spare parts are required, owners should first
contact their local dealer. Your ROUNDHOUSE dealer is;
www.roundhouse-eng.com
ONLINE