roundhouse HBK8 User manual

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HBK8 George Body Kit
Checklist
Loose items:-
1 Cab Floor.
1 Cab Front.
1 Cab Back.
1 Cab Roof.
3 Boiler Band with M2 Long Steel Screw & Nut fitted.
1 pair of Right and Left cab/side tanks.
1 Brass dome.
1 Dummy Roof Vent with sticky pads.
Sealed Pack No.1
2 Front tank steps.
1 Cab Roof Hinge
1 R/C servo mount.
1 Dummy Whistle valve casting with fixing nut.
1 Brass dummy whistle
2 Spectacle Rims.
2 Dummy Tank Fillers.
4 Handrails
Sealed Pack No.2
8 Handrail Knobs
13 8BA Nuts
4 M3 x 6 Brass Screws - Body Mounting Screws
4 M3 brass nuts.
2 8BA x 3/16 Countersunk Screws
2 M2 x 6 Screws, Washers & Nuts
PARTS CHECKED
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Modular Locomotive System
Instruction Manual
for
HBK8 George Body Kit
Roundhouse Engineering Co. Ltd.
Units 6-10 Churchill Business Park.
Churchill Road, Wheatley.
Doncaster. DN1 2TF. England.
Tel. [phone] Fax. [phone]
Email. [email protected]
www.roundhouse-eng.com

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HBK32 George Body Kit
Introduction
These instructions cover the construction of the body kit intended
to fit the George chassis and boiler kits.
The brass panels are photo etched to shape and all fold lines and
holes are etched into the parts where necessary. Only a minimum
of cleaning up is required and will normally simply mean running
around the edges with a small file or emery cloth to remove any
sharp edges or ‘pips’ that may be left due to the photo etching
process. As a general rule, all folds should be 90 degrees with the
etched lines on the inside of the angle except if specifically stated
otherwise. The kit is designed for either manual or radio control
operation and all fixing holes are provided for both versions.
The panels have been designed for assembly with soft solder,
however, if preferred holes can be drilled at the joints and small
rivets or screws used. If soldering, a small to medium butane
blowtorch is ideal, as the large areas of brass will dissipate the
heat of a soldering iron too quickly unless a very powerful one is
used. Use a suitable flux with the solder, Bakers fluid being
particularly good, though extreme care must be taken during use.
Follow the manufacturer’s instructions on the packaging of any
solder, fluids or glues at all times. Glue of any kind is not suitable
for the main structure, but is required for the headlamp lens.
Refer to diagrams where necessary and hold parts together with
small clamps such as toolmakers clamps or miniature G or C
clamps, during soldering or drilling of joints. It is advisable to run
through the full instructions identifying all parts and mountings and
have a ‘dry run’ before soldering anything in place.
All painting is left to the builder and Acrylic paint is readily available
in spray cans for a good finish. A good primer is essential and if
available an etch primer should be used on brass parts. Read
carefully and follow the maker’s instructions that appear on the can
before using any paint. All parts must be thoroughly cleaned and
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The finished body is fastened to the chassis in four places.
Two M3 screws pass down through the cab back base flanges and
cab footplate with nuts underneath.
Two more pass through the front of the side tanks and the vertical
flange on the rear of the front footplate with nuts inside the tanks.
The dummy roof vent is purely a cosmetic addition to the roof and
is attached using the double sided sticky pads.
Finally, place the dome over the boiler filler plug.

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All assemblies and the brass dome can now be prepared and
painted as outlined in the introduction.
When the painted items are thoroughly dry, the four cab handrails
can be fitted using 8BA nuts on the inside.
The dummy whistle valve is screwed to the cab front using the nut
supplied. The polished brass dummy whistle can then be glued
onto the top of the valve.
The dummy tank fillers can be glued in place.
The spectacle rims are held in place by tabs which pass through
the slots above and below the spectacles. Note that the top tab on
each rim should be bent down inside the cab and the bottom ones
bent up.
Finally, the cab roof is attached using the two M2 x 6 screws,
washers and nuts. These screws pass through from the outside of
the cab with the washers and nuts on the inside of the hinge. Leave
them slightly loose to allow the hinge to operate. A spot of ‘Loctite’
or, if this is not available, paint, on the threads will prevent the nut
from coming off.
To open the roof, it should be lifted slightly on the left hand side so
that the hinge slides up on it’s slotted brackets, and should then
hinge open freely.
Check that when closed, it sits squarely on top of the cab and that
its curve matches the radius of the spectacle plates on which it sits.
The brass boiler bands should be cleaned to remove any sharp
edges and then polished and fitted over the front of the boiler wrap-
per as follows.
One touching the rear of the smokebox.
One just in front of the dome.
One just in front of the cab spectacle plate.
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rubbed down with fine wet and dry paper prior to painting.
Be aware that pinholes may be present on the surface of the brass
due to the etching process and these should be filled with a metal
primer prior to painting.
Construction
Fold up the cab floor and regulator r/c servo bracket as
shown in the diagram (Dia. A). Place the two tabs on the bottom of
the servo bracket into the slots on the footplate and fix with soft sol-
der.
General Note.
When folding long sections, i.e. the side
flanges, it is better to hold the flanges be-
tween two pieces of angle iron in a vice
or clamps, as illustrated (Dia. B). In this
way, all the flange is bent over in one go
and the result is a much neater job.
Dia. A

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The floor can now be painted then fitted to the chassis as follows.
If the chassis/boiler unit is complete, it is necessary to remove the
lubricator, gas burner and gas tank and the screw fixing the rear
boiler mounting foot to the frame spacer.
Pull the boiler backwards out of the smoke box then lift the rear end
and slide the foot plate in place.
Reposition the boiler and fasten again with the screw up through
the rear frame spacer and into the mounting foot, this time also
passing through the hole (1 on Dia. C) in the foot plate.
The mounting hole is slotted to allow the foot plate to be squared
up to the rear buffer beam before finally tightening the screw from
underneath.
Dia. C
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The cab roof can now be assembled.
Fold the cab roof hinge as shown in the picture below, and attach it
to the underside of the cab roof using two 8BA x 3/16 countersunk
screws and nuts. The holes on the top of the roof that these screws
pass through are countersunk, so that the head of the screw is flat
with the roof. The hinge has slotted holes to allow for adjustment of
the roof position. Check roof and hinge position on top of the cab
and tighten the screws up. File away any excess thread that pro-
trudes through the nut plus about half the thickness of the nut as
well.

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The side tank front steps can
now be fitted.
Push the half etched tab
through the slot in the tank
front and bend it up on the in-
side then solder.
Two lamp brackets are pro-
vided which can be fixed to the
cab rear if required. Remove
the two side tabs from each
bracket and fold as shown in
dia. K. The brackets can now
be laid on or clamped in place
and soldered to the cab back in a position to suite your needs.
Dia. J
Dia. K
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Replace the gas equipment and lubricator as before. Note that
there is a slot in the foot plate for the gas tank mounting to pass
through.
Two holes (3 on dia. C) are provided on the left hand side of the
foot plate for mounting the manual reversing lever. The front screw
is used with a large brass washer and so that the washer clamps
under the edge of the large cut-out in the floor.
Diagram D shows the basic layout of controls and fittings on a
manual control engine. Radio control versions differ slightly but this
is covered in detail in the R/C fittings kit instruction manual.
Dia. D

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Fold up left and right hand body sides as shown in Dia. E, ensuring
that all folds are at 90 degrees. Clamp together tab A and the tank
front and solder the two together making sure that the tank top is at
90 degrees to the tank side.
Fold up the cab back as
shown in dia. F.
Note that four large
flanges with holes in
bend the same way ,
i.e. facing into the cab
interior however, the
four narrow flanges (B)
fold the opposite way
and point outwards.
Fold up the cab front as
shown in dia. G.
Note that the two side
flanges bend one way , i.e.
facing into the cab interior
however, the two bottom
flanges fold the opposite
way.
Dia. E
Dia. F
Dia. G
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Clamp tabs C and D (dia.H) on the cab front to the left hand cab
side and underside of tank top, ensuring that all faces are at 90 de-
grees to each other, then solder both joints. A slot will be left at the
top for the roof hinge. Repeat for the right hand side.
Clamp tab E (dia. I) on the cab back to the cab side ensuring that
the handrail holes line up and the back face is parallel to the back
edge of the cab before soldering. Repeat for other side. As with the
front panel, a slot is formed in the top left hand corner for the roof
hinge.
Dia. H
Dia. I