roundhouse Darjeeling C Class User guide

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Owners Handbook
For the ‘Darjeeling C Class
Locomotive
Darjeeling C Class

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Operating Instructions
IMPORTANT: Read these instructions carefully before operating
the locomotive.
The following items are required for running this engine and are not
included with the model.
Fuel See ’Gas System’ section.
Water See 'Filling the boiler' section.
General Lubricating oil See 'Lubrication' section.
SAFETY PRECAUTIONS
This is a working model locomotive using steam under pressure
and highly flammable fuel. Provided it is operated with reasonable
care and attention, no problems should arise.
It is intended for use out of doors and must only be operated in a
well-ventilated area.
Whilst the locomotive is in use, hot gasses are exhausted up the
chimney and excess steam frequently blows off through the safety
valve even when stationary, so operator and spectators should not
bend over the model.
As you will appreciate, this is not a toy and is therefore unsuitable
for young unsupervised children.
Follow manufacturer’s recommendations regarding the safe
storage of Mixed/Butane gas canisters.
Always have to hand either a fire extinguisher or wet cloth when
operating the model.

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Darjeeling C Class Instruction
Manual
CONTENTS
1. Tool kit Page 4
2. Running in Page 4
3. Access to controls Page 4
4. Identification of locomotive main controls Page 5
5. Preparing for operation Page 6
5.1. Filling the Gas Tank Page 6
5.2. Filling the Boiler Page 7
5.3. Lubrication Page 8
5.4. Lighting the Burner Page 9
6. Running the locomotive Page 10
7. Driving by Radio Control Page 11
8. Water top-up system Page 12
9. Trouble shooting & maintenance Page 13
9.1. Storage between operating sessions Page 13
9.2. Steam leaks Page 14
9.3. Water top-up system Page 14
9.4. Water Gauge Page 15
9.5. Regulator not shutting Page 15
9.6. Radio control Page 15
9.7. Gas system Page 16
9.8. Gas Jet Removal Page 17
9.9. Gas Regulator Servicing
10. Pressure Vessel Care & Maintenance Page 18
11. Pressure Vessel Testing Certificate Page 19

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1. TOOL KIT
The following items are included with your locomotive.
One 60ml bottle of special steam oil for use in the lubricator.
One 60ml syringe with plastic tube for filling the boiler with water.
One water top up pump bottle.
One set of spare washers and ‘O’ rings.
One spare gas jet.
One cleaning duster.
One 2mm Allen key for cylinder socket cap screws.
One 1.5mm Allen key for wheel bush grub screws
One 32/45 back to back wheel setting gauge
2. RUNNING IN
All locomotives are test run before leaving the factory, but when
new, will require several hours of running in to overcome initial
tightness and allow valves etc. to 'bed in' completely. Also, the loco
will waste a proportion of it's water and steam until 'run in' due to
leaking slide valves, a tendency to prime more, and simply
overcoming the initial tightness of the moving parts. As the model
heats up and cools down each time you raise steam, screws and
nuts have a tendency to stretch and loosen a little, which means
that you will need to make regular checks and 'nip up' any that
become loose. Most are quite visible and easy to get to. However,
if there is any steam leaking from the valve chests on top of the
cylinders, refer to the Trouble Shooting section.
3. ACCESS TO THE CONTROLS
For normal operation, most controls are accessible without the
need to remove any part of the locomotive
The gas regulator is accessible on the right hand cab side.
The displacement lubricator is positioned inside the cab, at the
front left hand side. The cab roof will need to be removed to allow
access to the lubricator filler cap. The lubricator drain screw is
positioned underneath the cab floor on the left side.
The gas filler valve and gas tank are situated in the front right hand
side of the cab.

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4. IDENTIFICATION OF LOCOMOTIVE MAIN CONTROLS
1) Regulator servo
2) Lubricator cap,
3) Pressure gauge
4) Steam regulator,
5) Water gauge,
6) Gas tank and gas regulator,
7) Water top up valve,
8) Gas jet,
9) Servo plugs,
10) Draw bar
1.
2.
3.
4.
5.
6.
7.
8.
9.
10.

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The power switch for the locomotive R/C equipment is located on
the front of the tender.
The radio control equipment fitted to the locomotive is powered by
4 x AA batteries which are located underneath the tender coal load.
5. PREPARING FOR OPERATION
The locomotive must be serviced before being operated. It is
important to perform all the following operations.
NOTE, check that the batteries in both the R/C transmitter and the
locomotive are in good condition before attempting to operate the
model - see the Radio Control section later on.
To attach the tender rotate the leading bogie to move out of the
way of the drawbar and pin.
5.1. FILLING THE GAS TANK
The filling of the gas tank should only be carried out in a well-
ventilated area, where there are no naked lights or other lighted
locomotives close by. Ordinary Butane or Iso-butane gas (as used
in gas cigarette lighters) is the preferred fuel, though for economy,
the larger canisters as used for blowlamps or camping stoves etc.
are better. The larger canisters have an EN417 threaded self
sealing valve on top and require a special adapter to couple up to
the filler valve on the locomotive. Mixed gasses are also available
and may be used if ordinary butane or iso-butane are not available,
but see the ‘Gas System’ section for more information on this
subject.
Before attempting to fill the gas tank, make sure that the gas
control valve is closed by turning it clockwise and that there are no
other operating locomotives or naked flames nearby.
The filler valve for the gas tank is located inside the cab on the right
hand side. A gas filler adaptor will be needed to fill the gas tank,
this is not supplied in the tool kit and can be purchased separately
from Roundhouse or your dealer. Invert the gas canister and place
its nozzle over the gas filler valve. Support the locomotive from
underneath in the area of the tank, and press the canister down.
The gas will be heard hissing as it enters the tank and a small

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amount will escape around the valve. This is quite normal and is
the tank venting as the liquid enters. After about 20 to 30 seconds
liquid gas will emerge from the valve showing that the tank is full.
Remove the canister immediately. Filling times will vary depending
on the temperature of the locomotive and are for guidance only.
5.2. FILLING THE
BOILER
There are two methods of
filling the boiler.
Quick filling when cold.
The painted steam dome
can be lifted off
completely to access the
safety valve and filler
plug. Care is needed
when removing the dome,
especially when the
engine is hot, as the
dome itself will be hot.
Take care not to drop the
dome onto the locomotive, as the weight of it may damage the
model. Lift off the dome then remove the safety valve and filler plug
by unscrewing it. Fill the boiler right to the top with clean water,
using the syringe and plastic tube supplied. Distilled water is
recommended if available or as an alternative clean tap water can
be used in soft water areas. Also, rain water or water from a
dehumidifier can be used provided that it is adequately filtered.
Many people now use rain water passed through a wine or coffee
filter to remove any particles or debris in the water.
Do not use deionised water as this type of water may cause long
term damage to the boiler and fittings.
There has to be a space above the water to allow steam to be
raised so, insert the end of the plastic pipe into the boiler and
withdraw 30ml of water with the syringe. Replace the water top up
and filler plug finger tight then place the dome over it.

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Filling using the pump
bottle when hot or cold.
To access the boiler top-
up valve, the roof needs
to be removed. Fill the
plastic pump bottle with
clean water and push the
end of the plastic tube
into the socket in the top
up valve on the right
hand side of the boiler
next to the gas tank.
The socket has a slight
taper in it, and a little
downward pressure on the tube will ensure a good seal.
Pump the handle on the bottle to inject water into the boiler whilst
maintaining this downward pressure. Keep pumping until the water
level in the water gauge is almost at the top of the glass.
Remove the plastic tube. Note that a small amount of water will
remain in the top of the valve but will evaporate away as the valve
heats up.
5.3. LUBRICATION
Regular lubrication of all working parts is important and should be
carried out before each operating session. There are two types of
lubrication required: The external moving linkages and bearings are
lubricated with a medium oil such as motor engine oil, and the
internal steam mechanisms such as cylinders, pistons and valves
are lubricated with a special steam oil that is mixed with the steam.
Infrequent external lubrication will allow parts to run dry, and over
oiling can form pools around operating parts that attract dirt and
grit. If too thin an oil is used it will evaporate very quickly as the
loco gets hot – leading to dry running. We recommend the use of a
20-50 motor oil for external lubrication. When carrying out general
lubrication, do not forget the regulator spindles (see Trouble
Shooting section for further details of oiling the regulators). Internal

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lubrication is achieved by steam oil that is mixed with the steam in
the displacement lubricator, housed in the front, left-hand side of
the cab. Lift off the roof and unscrew and remove the knurled cap
from the top of the lubricator. Locate the knurled lubricator drain
screw located under the cab floor. Unscrew this two or three turns,
but do not remove it. Any water in the lubricator will run out through
the hole in the drain screw. When the water has finished draining,
tighten the drain screw and refill the lubricator from the top with the
steam oil supplied. Replace the cap and finally, replace the roof.
Take time filling the lubricator, especially when cold, as the oil
takes time to run down and may trap an air bubble. Both cap and
drain screw are fitted with ‘O’ rings and need only be closed finger
tight.
NOTE: Only special steam oil as supplied should be used in the
lubricator and under no circumstances should ordinary oil be
substituted, or damage may result.
5.4. LIGHTING THE BURNER
WARNING: Before lighting read the section on the gas system in
the Troubleshooting section later on and be aware of potential
problems. If the gas system is not operating correctly, shut it off
immediately or damage may result.
Move the locomotive to another location before lighting. Butane is
heavier than air and small pockets of gas can collect around the
locomotive during filling. To light the burner, hold a long kitchen
lighter or cigarette lighter over the top of the chimney and slowly
open the gas regulator by turning it anti-clockwise. The gas should
ignite almost immediately with a pop as the flame travels down the
chimney and into the boiler tube. The burner should be audible but
not too loud.
NOTE as stated above, the gas regulator should be opened slowly
until the burner ignites. If opened too quickly or too far, particularly
when the engine is cold or if the gas tank has just been filled, it is
possible that the flame may not ignite correctly, or may not travel
back into the boiler flue but stay in the smoke box. If this should
happen, the burner will sound quite different to normal and the blue
flame will be visible in the smoke box if viewed down the chimney

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from a safe height. Should this happen, turn off the gas
immediately or damage may result and then re-light it. If the
problem persists and it is not possible to ignite the burner correctly,
then a dirty jet should be suspected and cleaned as detailed in the
Troubleshooting section.
For the first couple of minutes keep the burner on low. This is
important, as until it warms up, the flame will be a little unstable
and turning it up too much could cause it to go out. Also, with a
completely full tank, liquid gas could be drawn off instead of
vaporized gas, which can also extinguish the flame.
After a couple of minutes, the gas control valve can be opened
more to speed up steam raising. Open the gas regulator slowly.
The full range of adjustment (closed to fully open) is achieved
within the first half to three quarters of a turn of the gas regulator
knob any more is unnecessary.
6. RUNNING THE LOCOMOTIVE
When full working pressure has been reached (between 35 and
40psi), the safety valve will start to blow off steam. Steam
generation can be controlled by the gas regulator valve in the right
hand cab doorway. If the safety valve blows off frequently during
running, then too much steam is being produced, which wastes
water and gas. Turning down the burner will decrease the amount
of steam created. Conversely, if steam pressure is not maintained
during a run, then the burner should be turned up.
After a few minutes of running it may be noticed that the gas
pressure through the burner has increased. This is due to the gas
tank becoming warmer and so increasing the gas pressure. Simply
turn the gas down – this may need to be performed several times
during a run. The art of balancing steam generation to the
operational requirement by the adjustment of the gas control valve
is a skill picked up through use and familiarity with the loco.
The gas tank has a duration of about 20 minutes, though this will
vary depending on the gas valve setting. The boiler should not be
allowed to run dry and may need to be topped up during the
run. Keep an eye on the water gauge whilst running to check that
there is sufficient water in the boiler. When the gas is fully used up,

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the steam pressure in the boiler will be seen to gradually drop until
the loco comes to a halt.
Should the water expire before the gas is fully used, the pressure
will drop rapidly and the loco will stop. Check the pressure gauge
and water gauge – if there is no steam pressure or visible water,
turn off the gas. No damage will result if the gas is turned off
immediately and the engine left to cool. Never add cold water to a
hot, empty boiler in an attempt to cool it and never re-fill the gas
tank without first checking the water level in the boiler.
Ensure that the gas valve is completely turned off before refilling
the gas tank.
7. DRIVING BY RADIO CONTROL
On this model, speed and direction are controlled by moving the
two levers on the transmitter supplied. The left hand lever operates
the steam regulator, down for stop, up for go and the right hand
lever operates the steam reversing valve, left for forward, right for
reverse and centre for mid gear (neutral).
First, turn on the transmitter and then switch on the receiver on the
locomotive. Select the desired direction of travel by holding the
right hand lever fully over, and then open the regulator a little by
moving the left-hand lever upwards slowly. The locomotive will now
move off as described in the manual control section.
The art of fine control will soon be learnt through use and familiarity
with the loco.
NOTE: Always hold the reversing lever fully over in the required
direction when the engine is moving. The model is fitted with a
simple reversing valve gear and is not capable for 'notching
up' (altering the valve cut off).
Always bring the locomotive to a halt by closing the regulator
before changing direction.
If an emergency stop is required, simply release the reversing
lever, which will spring back into mid gear and halt the train. Then

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close the regulator.
Always ensure that the regulator is closed before switching off the
transmitter.
Always switch off the receiver and transmitter when not in use to
preserve battery life.
It is good practice to switch on the transmitter before the receiver
and switch off the receiver before the transmitter. In this way, the
radio receiver is never on when the transmitter is switched off and
so should always be under your control.
When the batteries are getting low, a poor signal between
transmitter and receiver will result and control of the engine will
become erratic. Refer to the instructions supplied with the radio
control equipment.
8. WATER TOP UP SYSTEM
A water top up system is fitted to this model. This enables the
water level in the boiler to be monitored and topped up to keep the
engine in steam for longer periods.
Once the locomotive is in operation as detailed in the previous
sections, water can be added to the boiler at any time during the
run as follows.
Fill the water pump bottle from your usual water supply. Push the
end of the plastic tube through into the water filling valve and hold it
in. Take care not to touch the hot boiler fittings. Pump the handle
and this will inject water into the boiler.
You will sometimes see water and air bubbles passing through the
sight glass as you pump so allow the level to settle after a few
pumps. Carefully pull the plastic pipe out of the water filling valve
whilst still steadying the engine.
Sometimes, small particles of dirt will find their way in with the
water and may cause the water filling valve to leak back a little
when the pipe is removed. If this should happen, re-connect the

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pipe and give a further pump or two of water to clear it.
As the filler valve sits near vertically on top of the boiler, a small
amount of water will remain in the socket once the plastic pipe has
been removed and will boil off as the fittings return to normal
operating temperature. This is quite normal.
Once you start running your loco you will see the water level in the
gauge slowly dropping. Note that air bubbles may sometimes form
in the gauge giving a false reading but these can be pushed out by
connecting the pipe from the water pump to the water filling
connector – and injecting some water.
It is better to pump small amounts of water into the boiler at
frequent intervals. Aim to keep the water level between ½ and ¾ up
the gauge and re-fill the gas tank as detailed in the locomotive
operating instructions whenever it is empty. In this way, you can
keep the loco in steam and at working pressure as long as you like.
Don’t forget to re-fill the displacement lubricator about every 30
minutes.
9. TROUBLESHOOTING & MAINTENANCE
On a working model of this nature, it is important to keep all
working parts well lubricated as detailed in the lubrication section.
With constant heating up, cooling down and the stresses of hard
work, screws etc. can work loose so, it is good practice to check all
fixings and cylinder screws regularly, particularly when the model is
new but, remember - never over tighten.
9.1. STORAGE BETWEEN OPERATING SESSIONS
At the end of an operating session, it is good practice to clean the
locomotive carefully with a clean soft cloth, and to oil all bright
metal parts.
* Do not leave fuel or water in the tank or boiler for long
periods.
* Do not store in places where the temperature may drop below
freezing as water may still be present in the pipework.
* Ensure all controls are closed and the valve gear in mid gear.

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* Ensure that radio control equipment is switched off.
* Remove batteries from the locomotive and the transmitter.
Periodically it may be necessary to wash off all traces of dirt and
old oil from the moving parts with paraffin (not thinners). This will
remove any accumulations of dirt or grit. After washing with
paraffin, leave to dry thoroughly overnight before re-oiling. It is
most important that clean oil is applied and allowed to penetrate
fully into all moving parts before the locomotive is run again.
Manually moving the locomotive back and forth will assist in
distributing the oil fully. Under normal operating conditions this
procedure should not be required more than once or twice per
year.
9.2. STEAM LEAKS
The cylinders are fitted with '0' rings in the glands sealing the piston
and valve rods. These can be adjusted with a spanner if steam
leaks develop. They should only be tightened just enough to stop
the leak, as over tightening will affect the running of the model.
9.3. WATER TOP-UP SYSTEM
Over a period of time the end of the plastic filling tube that pushes
in the boiler top-up valve will become a loose fit due to the heat of
the fitting. To cure this, simply cut approximately 6mm from the end
of the tube when necessary.
If the top up-valve leaks constantly, it will require either cleaning or
the internal silicon rubber tube replacing.
Firstly, remove the valve from the boiler. The rubber tube will be
seen on the lower part of the valve and can be carefully slipped off.
If it is undamaged, clean the valve body and inside face of the tube
and re-fit the valve. If the rubber tube is damaged, a replacement
can be obtained from Roundhouse.
9.4. WATER GAUGE
A water gauge is fitted to the left hand side of the boiler and over
time the glass may become clouded. This may be cleaned by
removing the eight screws holding the steel faceplate in place and

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removing the flat glass from the housing. Wipe the glass down with
a soft solvent or leave overnight in white vinegar to remove
limescale build-up. Replacement gauge glasses are available from
the factory. When replacing the steel faceplate gently tighten the
eight screws in a round.
9.5. REGULATOR NOT SHUTTING
The steam regulator seating and seal can, after a period of time
become worn or compressed so that when the lever on the radio
control is fully closed, the locomotive still moves. To overcome this,
a trimmer is fitted to the transmitter. As wear takes place in the
regulator, it can gradually be adjusted to compensate. When no
more adjustment is possible, it is time to reset the trimmer and
adjust the linkage between the servo and the regulator in the cab. If
adjustment does not cure this problem, the internal '0' ring is
probably damaged and requires replacement. Contact the factory
for further advice.
Periodic oiling of the gland will help keep the regulator working
freely. Place a spot of motor oil between the gland nut and the
regulator arm and work the regulator a few times.
9.6. RADIO CONTROL
If the radio control gives problems, always check the batteries first
and replace if in doubt. For more information on using the radio
control equipment, see the manufacturer’s instruction booklet
supplied with the Radio Control Set.
9.7. GAS SYSTEM
Internally fired locomotives are fitted with our 'FG' type gas burner,
which is set up and fully tested at the factory.
This system is designed for use with Butane or Iso-Butane gas.
Mixed gasses, i.e. Butane with a proportion of Propane mixed in,
are available, and may be used if straight Butane is unavailable.
These come in a variety of mixes ranging from 90/10 to 60/40 with
one of the most common being 70/30. The figures refer to the
proportions of the mix i.e. 70/30 contains 70% butane and 30%
propane.

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If using mixed gasses, always choose the one with the largest
proportion of butane. The addition of propane slightly alters the
gasses properties. This can make the burner a little more difficult to
light when cold or after filling the gas tank. Always open the
regulator very slowly when lighting, and only just sufficient for
ignition to take place.
Opening too much too soon may extinguish the flame until the
burner reaches normal operating temperature.
The tiny jet in these units can become blocked, or partially
occluded by small particles of dirt making the burner difficult to
light, burn weakly at normal operating temperatures*, burn in the
smokebox or fail completely. (* On very cold days, a burner may
start off burning weakly due to the temperature of the gas but
should increase to its normal level as the engine warms up. This is
quite normal).
If any of these should happen the Gas Jet will require cleaning or
replacing.
9.8. GAS JET REMOVAL
Undo the 2BA gland nut between the gas pipe and gas jet holder.
There is an M3, jet holder retaining screw in the collar of the
burner. Un-do this and then the jet holder will slide backwards and
out of the burner body.
Remove the jet from the jet holder using a 4BA spanner. Wash out
the jet in fast evaporating thinner (Cellulose or similar). Blow
through the jet from the front, which should clear most blockages.
Although the hole through the jet is tiny, if you hold it up to the light
you should be able to see quite clearly if it is blocked or not. If in
doubt, fit a new jet. A spare gas jet is included with the toolkit. Do
not use wire to clean the jet as this can damage the precision hole
and may upset the delicate balance of the gas system.
Re-assemble in the reverse order, putting a small amount of PTFE

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tape or thread seal around the thread of the jet. Ensure all
connections are tight. When re-positioning the jet block in the
burner, ensure that it is pushed in as far as it will go.
9.9. GAS REGULATOR SERVICING
The gas regulator has a spindle ‘O’ ring housed inside the body
which may need lubrication from time to time if the control becomes
‘spongy’ in operation, making precise gas control difficult.
As stated in the lighting instructions earlier, the full range of
adjustment for normal burner operation is achieved within the first
full rotation of the regulator knob, and it should only be unscrewed
more than this for maintenance purposes and when the tank is
empty, and there are no naked lights nearby.
To lubricate it, remove the knurled knob which is retained by a M3
socket grub screw (1.5mm Allen key required) in the side.
Beneath the knob is a back-lash spring and white PTFE washer
which will slide off the spindle. Unscrew the hexagon retaining nut
then screw the spindle out of the body. The ‘O’ ring can now be
lubricated.
Replace the spindle followed by the retaining nut. Slide the white
PTFE washer and backlash spring over the spindle and replace the
knob. Note that the grub screw that holds the knob in place tightens
into a groove near the end of the spindle.
Gas Regulator (Internal Parts)
Regulator
Body
Back-Lash
Spring
Regulator
Spindle
White PTFE
Washer
Knurled
Knob
‘O’ ring to
be
Hexagon
Retaining
Nut

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10. PRESSURE VESSEL CARE & MAINTENENCE
Gas tank
The gas tank is used for the storage of LPG (liquefied petroleum
gas) in the form of butane, iso-butane or as set out in the ‘owners
handbook’.
The tank is fitted with a self-venting filler valve which contains no
serviceable parts. Should the filler valve become defective in any
way, it must be replaced with a new item.
It is recommended that the gas tank should undergo the following
checks, carried out by a ‘competent person’, club, society or
pressure vessel manufacturer, every year:-
1) thorough visual inspection.
And every five to ten years:-
1) hydrostatic pressure test to not less than 1.5 and not more
than 2 times the maximum working pressure.
Boiler
The boiler is fitted with a safety valve to prevent the steam
pressure rising above the maximum allowable working pressure.
This is pre-set to open at between 2.38 bar (35 psi) and 2.72 bar
(40 psi) and must not be adjusted to increase this value. If the
safety valve becomes defective in any way, it should be replaced or
returned to the factory for service and calibration.
It is recommended that the boiler should undergo the following
checks, carried out by a ‘competent person’, club, society, or
pressure vessel manufacturer, every one to two years:-
1) thorough visual inspection.
2) hydrostatic pressure test to not less than 1.5 and not more
than 2 times the maximum working pressure.
3) steam test to check the correct functioning of all steam
controls, gauge and safety valve.

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Description and specification of equipment covered
ROUNDHOUSE ENGINEERING CO. LTD.
Units 6-9 Churchill Business Park. Churchill Road.
Wheatley. Doncaster. DN1 2TF. England
Telephone [phone] Fax [phone]
Email:- [e-mail]
www.roundhouse-eng.com
Model: Darjeeling C Class Serial No.:
Signed
R. Loxley (director) Dated ……………….......
Vessel for Group 1 gasses and associated pipe work and fittings.
Test pressure: 34 bar
Volume: ~35ml
Maximum permissible working pressure: 17 bar
Maximum working temperature: 65 degrees C
Intended use: storage of Liquefied Petroleum Gas (LPG)
Year of manufacture: Same as ‘Test Date’.
Steam Generator and associated pipe work and fittings
Boiler Material: Copper
Test pressure: 5.4 bar
Volume: 436ml
Max working pressure: 2.7 bar
Safety valve set pressure: 2.7 bar
Maximum filling volume: 406 ml
Year of manufacture: Same as ‘Test Date’.
Model: Type 30 boiler Serial No.:
Test date:
Model: Type ‘Y’ gas tank Serial No.:
Test date:
EC Declaration Of Conformity
I hereby declare that the model described:
Conforms to the Pressure Equipment Directive 97/23/EC
All components and assemblies have been designed and manufactured
according to sound engineering practice (SEP)

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