roundhouse TALIESIN User guide

Owners Handbook
For the Taliesin Locomotive
TALIESIN

OPERATING INSTRUCTIONS
IMPORTANT: Read these instructions carefully before operating
the locomotive.
The following items are required for running this engine and are not
included with the model.
Fuel Butane gas. See 'Filling the gas tank'
Water See 'Filling the boiler'
Lubricating oilSee 'Lubrication'
SAFETY PRECAUTIONS
This is a working model locomotive using steam under pressure
and highly flammable fuel. Provided it is operated with reasonable
care and attention, no problems should arise.
It is intended for use out of doors and must only be operated in a
well ventilated area.
Whilst the locomotive is in use, hot gasses are exhausted up the
chimney and excess steam frequently blows off through the safety
valve even when stationary, so operator and spectators should not
bend over the model.
As you will appreciate, this is not a toy and is therefore unsuitable
for unsupervised children.
Follow manufacturer’s recommendations regarding the safe
storage of Butane gas canisters.
Some areas of the model will get quite hot whilst it is operating, so
a pair of gloves is provided in the tool kit for your protection.
Always have to hand either a fire extinguisher or wet cloth when
operating the model.
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CONTENTS
Tool kit. Page 4
Running in. Page 4
Access to the controls. Page 4
Identification of parts of the locomotive. Page 5
Preparing for operation. Page 6
1. Charging the batteries Page 6
2. Filling the Gas Tank. Page 6
3. Filling the Boiler. Page 7
3a. Quick filling when cold. Page 7
3b. Filling using the Pump bottle. Page 8
4. Lubrication. Page 8
5. Lighting the Burner. Page 9
Running the locomotive. Page 10
Water top-up system. Page 12
Storage between operating sessions. Page15
Trouble shooting & maintenance. Page15
Steam leaks. Page 15
Regulator not shutting. Page 16
Radio control. Page 17
Gas system. Page 18
Water top up valve Page 19
Identification of gas burner parts. Page23
Boiler and Gas Tank Certificate, Pages 21 & 22
(EC Declaration Of Conformity).
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Taliesin Instruction Booklet

TOOL KIT
The following items are included with your locomotive.
One 60ml bottle of special steam oil for use in the lubricator.
One 60ml syringe with plastic tube for filling the boiler with water.
One water top-up pump bottle.
One gas filling adapter.
One set of spare washers and ‘0’ rings.
One spare gas jet.
One Allen key for cylinder socket cap screws.
One pair of protective gloves and one cleaning duster.
RUNNING IN
All locomotives are test run before leaving the factory, but will
require several hours of running in, when new, to overcome initial
tightness and allow valves etc. to ‘bed in’ completely. Also, the loco
will waste a proportion of its water and steam until ‘run in’ due to
leaking slide valves, a tendency to prime more, and simply
overcoming the initial tightness of the moving parts.
As the model heats up and cools down each time you raise steam,
screws and nuts have a tendency to stretch and loosen a little so
you will also need to make regular checks and ‘nip up’ any that
become loose. Most are quite visible and easy to get to however if
there is any steam leaking from the valve chests on top of the
cylinders, refer to the Trouble Shooting section.
ACCESS TO THE CONTROLS
For normal operation, all controls are accessible without the need
to remove any part of the locomotive, however, to give access to
the lubricator when filling, the cab roof hinges up. Care should be
taken when opening the cab roof. Gently grasp either side of the
roof hinge at the rear of the cab and lift the hinge vertically
upwards. This will lift the hinge clear of the cab and allow the roof
to then tilt to the rear.
The gas tank filler is under the dummy coal load in the rear bunker.
The gas regulator is accessible in the right hand cab doorway.
The On / Off switch for the locomotive R/C equipment is under the
tool box lid on top of right hand side tank.
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IDENTIFICATION OF PARTS OF THE LOCOMOTIVE
a) Boiler filler and top-up valve (dome removed). b) Safety valve.
c) Steam regulator. d) Gas regulator. e) Gas filler valve.
f) Gas jet holder. g) Pressure gauge. h) Water gauge.
i) Lubricator filler cap. j) Lubricator drain screw (under footplate).

PREPARING FOR OPERATION
The locomotive must be serviced before being operated. It is
important to perform all the following operations.
1) CHARGING THE BATTERIES.
The batteries in the locomotive are Ni-MH and are rechargeable via
a socket under the toolbox lid on top of the right hand side tank.
Plug the battery charger supplied, into a 3 pin power socket and
switch on the power. A red LED on the charger will light to show it
is working.
Lift up the lid of the tool box on the right hand side tank and ensure
that the R/C switch is in the off position. Plug the charging lead into
the socket next to the R/C On /Off switch. Leave to fully charge for
sixteen hours.
If the model is to be stored for any length of time, ensure that the
batteries are fully charged before storage. This will help to prevent
any loss of battery performance.
Note that the batteries in the transmitter are not re-chargeable and
are housed in the base of the unit.
2) FILLING THE GAS TANK
The filling of the gas tank should only be carried out in a well
ventilated area, where there are no naked lights or other lighted
locomotives close by. Ordinary Butane or Iso-butane gas (as used
in gas cigarette lighters) is the preferred fuel, though for economy,
the larger canisters as used for blowlamps or camping stoves etc.
are better. The larger canisters have an EN417 threaded self
sealing valve on top and require a special adapter to couple up to
the filler valve on the locomotive. A special brass gas filler adapter
is obtainable from your local garden railway supplier or direct from
ROUNDHOUSE.
Mixed gasses are also available and may be used if ordinary
butane or Iso-butane are not available, but see ‘Gas System’
section for more information on this subject.
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Before attempting to fill the gas tank, make sure that the gas
control valve is closed by turning it clockwise.
The filler valve for the gas tank is on top of the tank under the
dummy coal load. Invert the gas canister and place its nozzle over
the gas filler valve. Support the tank from underneath and press the
canister down. The gas will be heard hissing as it enters the tank
and a small amount will escape around the valve. This is quite
normal and is the tank venting as the liquid enters. After about 20
to 30 seconds, liquid gas will emerge from the valve showing that
the tank is full. Remove the canister immediately.
3) FILLING THE BOILER
There are two methods of filling the boiler.
3a) Quick filling when cold.
The brass steam dome can be lifted completely off to access the
filler plug. The brass dome is a substantial and heavy item, being
turned from solid brass. Care is needed when removing the dome,
especially when the engine is hot, as the dome itself will be hot.
Take care not to drop the dome onto the locomotive, as the weight
of it may damage the model.
Remove the filler plug / filler valve assembly by unscrewing it.
Using the 60ml syringe and plastic tube supplied, fill the boiler fully
to the top with clean water. Distilled water is recommended if
available. As an alternative in soft water areas, clean tap water can
be used. Also, rain water or water from a dehumidifier may be used
provided that it is adequately filtered.
Many people use rain water passed through a wine or coffee filter
to remove any particles or debris. Do not use deionised water as
this type of water in the long term, may cause damage to the boiler
and fittings. There has to be a space above the water to allow
steam to be raised so, insert the end of the plastic pipe into the
boiler and withdraw 30ml of water with the syringe. Replace the
filler plug finger tight, and then place the brass dome over it. Note
that there is a rubber ‘O’ ring around the body of the filler plug
which helps retain the dome during normal operation.
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3b) Filling using the Pump bottle when hot or cold.
The brass steam dome is open at the top and access to the filler
valve can be gained with the pump bottle tube without removing the
dome. Fill the pump bottle with clean water and pass the end of the
tube down through the hole in the dome and into the top-up valve.
The socket has a slight taper in it, and a little downward pressure
on the tube will ensure a good seal.
Pump the handle on the bottle to inject water into the boiler whilst
maintaining downward pressure on the tube. Keep pumping until
the water level in the water gauge (located inside the cab), is
almost at the top of the glass.
Remove the plastic tube. Note that a small amount of water will
remain in the top of the valve but will evaporate away as the valve
heats up.
4) LUBRICATION
Regular lubrication of all working parts is important and should be
carried out before each operating session. There are two types of
lubrication required: The external moving linkages and bearings are
lubricated with a medium oil such as motor engine oil, and the
internal steam mechanisms such as cylinders, pistons and valves
are lubricated with a special steam oil that is mixed with the steam.
Infrequent external lubrication will allow parts to run dry, and over
oiling can form pools around operating parts that attract dirt and
grit. If too thin an oil is used it will evaporate very quickly as the
loco gets hot –leading to dry running. We recommend the use of a
20-50 motor oil for external lubrication.
As the valve gear is between the frames, the locomotive must be
carefully laid on its side to gain access to all the moving parts when
oiling
Internal lubrication is achieved by steam oil that is mixed with the
steam in the displacement lubricator, housed in the left-hand side
of the cab. Remove the knurled cap from the top and slacken the
drain screw two or three turns at the bottom but do not remove it.

Any water in the lubricator will run out through the drain screw.
Tighten the drain screw and refill with the steam oil supplied, then
replace the cap.
Take time filling the lubricator, especially when cold, as the oil
takes time to run down and may trap an air bubble. Both cap and
drain screw are fitted with ‘0’ rings and need only be closed finger
tight.
NOTE: Only special steam oil as supplied should be used in the
lubricator and under no circumstances should ordinary oil be
substituted, or damage may result.
The gas and steam regulators will require periodic lubrication
–see the troubleshooting section for details.
5) LIGHTING THE BURNER
WARNING: Before lighting read the ‘Gas System’ section and be
aware of potential problems. If the gas system is not operating
correctly, shut it off immediately or damage may result.
Move the locomotive to another location before lighting. Butane is
heavier than air and small pockets of gas can collect around the
locomotive during filling.
To light the burner, hold a lighted match or cigarette lighter over the
top of the chimney and slowly open the gas regulator by turning it
anti-clockwise. The gas should ignite almost immediately with a
pop as the flame travels down the chimney and into the boiler tube.
The burner should be audible but not too loud.
NOTE as stated above, the gas regulator should be opened slowly
until the burner ignites. If opened too quickly, particularly when the
engine is cold or if the gas tank has just been filled, it is possible
that the flame may not travel back into the boiler flue but stay in the
smoke box. If this should happen, the burner will sound quite
different to normal and the blue flame will be visible in the smoke
box if viewed down the chimney from a safe height. Should this
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happen, turn off the gas immediately or damage may result and
then re-light it. If the problem persists and it is not possible to ignite
the burner correctly, then a dirty jet should be suspected and
cleaned as shown in the ‘Gas System’ section.
For the first couple of minutes keep the burner on low. This is
important, as until it warms up, the flame will be a little unstable
and turning it up too much could cause it to go out. Also, with a
completely full tank, liquid gas could be drawn off instead of
vaporised gas, which can also extinguish the flame.
After a couple of minutes, the gas control valve can be opened
more to speed up steam raising. Open the gas regulator slowly to
about one full turn.
The full range of adjustment (closed to fully open) is achieved
within the first full rotation of the gas regulator knob any more is
unnecessary.
RUNNING THE LOCOMOTIVE
If you are familiar with running Roundhouse steam
locomotives, you may find Taliesin a little different. All models
have a unique ‘feel’ and this single Fairlie is no exception and
requires a little more driving than some of our other
locomotives. Several factors come into play e.g. large
diameter driving wheels, long flexible steam pipe, inside valve
gear and valve chests and a separate articulated power bogie,
all contribute to the overall performance. It is also important to
maintain a good water level at all times using the water top up
system.
When full working pressure has been reached (about 40psi), the
safety valve will start to blow off steam. Steam generation can be
controlled by the gas valve in the cab. If the safety valve blows off
frequently during running, then too much steam is being produced,
which wastes water and gas. Turning down the burner will
decrease the amount of steam created. Conversely, if steam
pressure is not maintained during a run, then the burner should be
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turned up.
After a few minutes of running it may be noticed that the gas
pressure through the burner has increased. This is due to the gas
tank becoming warmer and so increasing the gas pressure. Simply
turn the gas down –this may need to be performed several times
during a run. The art of balancing steam generation to the
operational requirement by the adjustment of the gas control valve
will quickly be learned.
The gas tank has a duration of about 40 minutes, though this will
vary a little depending on gas valve setting. The boiler should not
be allowed to run dry, and, as the gas tank capacity is greater than
that of the boiler, it is necessary to top up the water at frequent
intervals as detailed in the water top up system section later in this
booklet. When the gas is fully used up, the steam pressure in the
boiler will be seen to gradually drop until the loco comes to a halt.
Should the water expire before the gas is fully used, the pressure
will drop rapidly and the loco will stop. Check the pressure gauge
and water gauge –if there is no steam pressure or visible water,
turn off the gas. No damage will result if the gas is turned off
immediately and the engine left to cool. Never add cold water to a
hot, empty boiler in an attempt to cool it and never re-fill the gas
tank without first checking the water level in the boiler.
Ensure that the gas valve is completely turned off before refilling
the gas tank.
This model is fitted with 2.4 GHz R/C equipment. On a Radio
Controlled model, speed and direction are controlled by the
transmitter. First, turn on the transmitter and then switch on the
receiver on the locomotive. The left hand stick on the transmitter
controls the steam regulator; down for stop and up for go. Moving
to the left or right has no function.
The right hand stick operates the valve gear. Move the stick fully to
the left for forward and fully to the right for reverse. This stick is

sprung loaded to return to its central position. Moving up or down
has no function.
Using the transmitter, select the desired direction of travel and then
slowly open the regulator. The locomotive will now move off as
described in the manual control section.
The art of fine control will soon be learnt with a little practice.
NOTE: Always hold the reversing lever fully over in the required
direction when the engine is moving. The model is fitted with a
simple reversing valve gear and is not capable for 'notching
up' (altering the valve cut off).
Always bring the locomotive to a halt by closing the regulator
before changing direction. If an emergency stop is required, simply
release the reversing control on the transmitter, which will spring
back into mid gear and halt the train. Then close the regulator.
Always ensure that the regulator is closed before switching off the
transmitter.
Always switch off the receiver and transmitter when not in use to
preserve battery life.
It is good practice to switch on the transmitter before the receiver
and switch off the receiver before the transmitter. In this way, the
radio receiver is never on when the transmitter is switched off and
so should always be under your control.
When the batteries are getting low a poor signal between
transmitter and receiver will occur. This will cause control of the
engine to become erratic. The batteries in the transmitter should be
replaced immediately and the receiver batteries in the locomotive
should be charged as previously described.
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WATER TOP UP SYSTEM
A water top up system is fitted to this model. This enables the
water level in the boiler to be monitored and topped up to keep the
engine in steam for long periods.
Once the locomotive is in operation as detailed in the previous
sections, water must be added to the boiler from time to time during
the run as follows.
Fill the water pump bottle from your usual water supply.
Bring the locomotive to a halt in a convenient place.
The steam dome has an opening at the top to allow access to the

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water top-up valve. The steam dome can be lifted off if preferred -
NOTE: when the locomotive is in service, the steam dome will be
hot and a pair of cotton gloves are provided in the tool kit.
Push the end of the plastic tube down through the hole in the top of
the steam dome and into the socket in the top of the water filling
valve.
Whilst still holding the pipe in position and exerting slight downward
pressure, pump the handle and this will inject water into the boiler.
You will sometimes see water and air bubbles passing through the
sight glass as you pump so allow the level to settle after a few
pumps. Carefully pull the plastic pipe out of the water filling valve
whilst steadying the engine.
Sometimes, small particles of dirt will find their way in with the
water and may cause the water filling valve to leak back a little
when the pipe is removed. If this does happen, re-connect the pipe
and give a further pump or two of water to clear it. As the filler valve
sits vertically on top of the boiler, a small amount of water will
remain in the socket once the plastic pipe has been removed and
will boil off as the fittings return to normal operating temperature.
This is quite normal.
Once you start running your loco you will see the water level in the
gauge slowly dropping. Note that air bubbles may sometimes form
in the gauge giving a false reading but these can be pushed out by
connecting the pipe from the water pump to the water filling
connector and injecting a little more water.
It is better to pump small amounts of water into the boiler at
frequent intervals as this maintains a more even boiler pressure
and prevents long waits while the cold water heats up and pressure
returns to normal operating level.
Aim to keep the water level between ½ and ¾ up the gauge and
never let the boiler run dry as this may seriously damage the
model.

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Re-fill the gas tank as detailed earlier whenever it is empty. In this
way, you can keep the loco in steam and at working pressure as
long as you like.
Don’t forget to re-fill the displacement lubricator about every 45
minutes.
STORAGE BETWEEN OPERATING SESSIONS
At the end of an operating session, it is good practice to clean the
locomotive carefully with a clean soft cloth, and to oil all bright
metal parts.
 Do not leave fuel or water in the tank or boiler for long
periods.
 Do not store in places where the temperature may drop below
freezing, as water may still be present in the pipework.
 Ensure all controls are closed and the valve gear in mid gear.
 Ensure that radio control equipment is switched off and, if the
engine is not to be used for some time, remove all batteries.
Periodically it may be necessary to wash off all traces of dirt and
old oil from the moving parts with paraffin (not thinners). This will
remove any accumulations of dirt or grit.
After washing with paraffin, leave to dry thoroughly overnight
before re-oiling. It is most important that clean oil is applied and
allowed to penetrate fully into all moving parts before the
locomotive is run again.
Manually moving the locomotive back and forth will assist in
distributing the oil fully. Under normal operating conditions this
procedure should not be required more than once or twice per
year.

TROUBLE SHOOTING & MAINTENANCE
On a working model of this nature, it is important to keep all
working parts well lubricated. With constant heating up, cooling
down and the stresses of hard work, screws etc. can work loose
so, it is good practice to check all fixings and cylinder screws
regularly but remember, never over tighten.
STEAM LEAKS
The cylinders are fitted with 'O' rings in the glands sealing both
piston and valve rods. These can be adjusted if steam leaks
develop. They should only be tightened just enough to stop the
leak, as over tightening will affect the running of the model.
Cylinder covers are fitted with gaskets and valve chests with ’O’
rings. A little ‘bubbling’ of oil may sometimes occur around these
and is quite normal; however, steam leaking past the gasket should
be attended to.
If ‘nipping up’ the retaining screws does not stop a steam leak, a
service kit is available which includes replacement gaskets and
seals and full instructions for fitting. Valve chest screws can only be
accessed by removal of the power bogie from the locomotive.
REGULATOR NOT SHUTTING
The steam regulator seating and seal can, after a period of time
become worn or compressed so that when the lever on the radio
control is fully closed, the locomotive still moves. To overcome this,
a trimmer is fitted to the transmitter. As wear takes place in the
regulator, it can gradually be adjusted to compensate. When no
more adjustment is possible, it is time to reset the trimmer and
adjust the linkage between the servo and the regulator in the cab.
If adjustment does not cure this problem, the internal '0' ring is
probably damaged and requires replacement. Contact the factory
for further advice.
Periodic oiling of the gland will help keep the regulator working
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freely. Place a spot of motor oil between the gland nut and the
regulator arm and work the regulator a few times.
Contact the factory for further advice. Periodic oiling of the gland
will help keep the regulator working freely. Place a spot of motor oil
between the gland nut and the regulator arm and work the
regulator a few times.
RADIO CONTROL
If the radio control gives problems, always check the batteries first
and replace or re-charge if in doubt. AA size batteries are used in
the transmitter and good quality alkaline or similar are
recommended. The batteries in the locomotive that provide power
for the receiver and the servos are Nickel Metal Hydride batteries.
These batteries will gradually lose their charge over a period of a
few weeks. The batteries should be used and re-charged at least
once every 4 to 6 weeks. Always fully re-charge the batteries after
use. Failure to do this may damage the batteries so that they can
no longer be charged and they will then need to be replaced.
The radio control receiver and batteries are housed in the right
hand side tank and are only accessible by removing the body as
follows. First, lift off the brass dome and dummy coal load and
carefully lay the locomotive on its side on a protective cloth. Next,
remove eight retaining nuts under the footplate. There are two on
each side of the side tanks and two on each side of the cab. Note
the cab fixing screws also hold on the dummy pipe castings under
the footplate.
The body can now be lifted up enough to access the R/C receiver
on the right hand footplate. Unplug the battery lead from the
receiver then lift the body clear.
For further details of the R/C equipment, refer to the manufacturers
literature supplied.
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GAS SYSTEM
Taliesin locomotives are fitted with our 'FG' type gas burner, which
is set up and fully tested at the factory. This system is designed for
use with Butane or Iso-Butane gas. Mixed gasses, i.e. Butane with
a proportion of Propane mixed in, are available, and may be used if
straight Butane is unavailable. These come in a variety of mixes
ranging from 90/10 to 60/40 with one of the most common being
70/30. The figures refer to the proportions of the mix i.e. 70/30
contains 70% butane and 30% propane.
If using mixed gasses, always choose the one with the largest
proportion of butane. The addition of propane slightly alters the
gasses properties. This can make the burner a little more difficult to
light when cold or after filling the gas tank.
Always open the regulator very slowly when lighting, and only just
sufficient for ignition to take place. Opening too much too soon may
extinguish the flame until the burner reaches normal operating
temperature.
The tiny jet in these units can become blocked by small particles of
dirt making the burner difficult to light, burn weakly at normal
operating temperatures*, burn in the smoke box or fail completely.
If any of these should happen, clean out the jet as follows.
(* On very cold days, a burner may start off burning weakly due to
the temperature of the gas but should increase to its normal level
as the engine warms up. This is quite normal). Carefully,
disconnect the gas pipe from the gas jet holder using a 2BA
spanner.
Note when connecting or disconnecting the gas pipe and gas jet
holder, do not use excessive force. Always hold the end of the gas
burner near the air holes to support it otherwise it is possible to
cause damage by bending the body. Slacken the screw retaining
the gas jet holder and slide it out to the rear. Remove the jet from
the gas jet holder using a 4BA spanner.
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Wash out the jet in fast evaporating thinner (Cellulose or similar).
Blow through the jet from the front, which should clear most
blockages. Although the hole through the jet is tiny, if you hold it up
to the light you should be able to see quite clearly if it is blocked or
not. If in doubt, fit a new jet.
A spare gas jet is included with the toolkit. Do not use wire to clean
the jet as this can damage the precision hole and may upset the
delicate balance of the gas system. Reassemble in the reverse
order, putting a small amount of PTFE tape round the thread of the
jet. Ensure all connections are tight.
When re-positioning the gas jet holder in the burner, ensure that it
is pushed in as far as it will go.
The gas regulator has a spindle ‘O’ ring housed inside the body
which may need lubrication from time to time if the control becomes
‘spongy’ in operation, making precise gas control difficult.
As stated in the lighting instructions earlier, the full range of
adjustment for normal burner operation is achieved within the first
full rotation of the regulator knob, and it should only be unscrewed
more than this for maintenance purposes and when the tank is
empty, and there are no naked lights nearby.
To lubricate it, remove the knurled knob which is retained by a M3
socket grub screw (M 1.5 AF Allen key required) in the side. This
grub screw is accessed by first removing the brass lever which is
screwed into the same hole.
Beneath the knob is a back-lash spring which will slide off the
spindle. Unscrew the hexagon retaining nut then screw the spindle
out of the body.
The ‘O’ ring can now be lubricated.
Replace the spindle followed by the retaining nut. Slide the
backlash spring over the spindle and replace the knob. Note that

the grub screw that holds the knob in place tightens into a groove
near the end of the spindle.
See photograph below.
WATER TOP UP VALVE
Steam or water leaking back through the top up valve is usually
caused by dirt particles preventing the valve from sealing correctly.
The valve consists of a simple silicone rubber tube over a brass
valve body. To clean, remove the boiler filler plug and unscrew the
hexagon valve body from the top. Once removed, the silicone tube
on the lower half of the filler valve body can be carefully removed
by sliding it off. Clean the tube and valve body and replace the
tube. If the tube is damaged, a replacement is available from the
Roundhouse factory. Replace the filler valve in the top of the filler
plug, not forgetting the copper washer.
The tip of the plastic tube on the pump bottle will, over time,
become smaller in diameter and fail to seal correctly into the
tapered socket of the top up valve. When this occurs, simply cut
about 6mm from the end of the tube to restore the seal.
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Gas Regulator (Internal Parts)
Regulator
Body
Back-Lash
Spring
Regulator
Spindle
White PTFE
Washer
Knurled
Knob
‘O’ ring to be
lubricated
Hexagon
Retaining
Nut