roundhouse TOM ROLT User guide

Owners Handbook
For the Tom Rolt Locomotive
TOM ROLT

2
OPERATING INSTRUCTIONS
IMPORTANT: Read these instructions carefully before operating
the locomotive.
The following items are required for running this engine and are not
included with the model.
Fuel Butane gas. See 'Filling the gas tank'
Water See 'Filling the boiler'
Lubricating oilSee 'Lubrication'
SAFETY PRECAUTIONS
This is a working model locomotive using steam under pressure
and highly flammable fuel. Provided it is operated with reasonable
care and attention, no problems should arise.
It is intended for use out of doors and must only be operated in a
well ventilated area.
Whilst the locomotive is in use, hot gasses are exhausted up the
chimney and excess steam frequently blows off through the safety
valve even when stationary, so operator and spectators should not
bend over the model.
As you will appreciate, this is not a toy and is therefore unsuitable
for unsupervised children.
Follow manufacturer’s recommendations regarding the safe
storage of Butane gas canisters.
Some areas of the model will get quite hot whilst it is operating, so
a pair of gloves is provided in the tool kit for your protection.
Always have to hand either a fire extinguisher or wet cloth when
operating the model.

3
CONTENTS
Tool kit. Page 4
Running in. Page 4
Access to the controls. Page 4
Replacing the Batteries. Page 5
Identification of parts of the locomotive. Page 6
Preparing for operation. Page 7
1. Filling the Gas Tank. Page 7
2. Filling the Boiler. Page 7
2a. Quick filling when cold. Page 7
2b. Filling using the Pump bottle. Page 8
3. Lubrication. Page 9
4. Lighting the Burner. Page 9
Running the locomotive. Page 11
Driving the locomotive manually. Page 11
Driving by radio control. Page 13
Water top-up system. Page 14
Storage between operating sessions. Page 16
Trouble shooting & maintenance. Page 16
Steam leaks. Page 16
Regulator not shutting. Page 18
Radio control. Page 18
Gas system. Page 18
Gas Regulator (internal parts) Page 20
Identification of gas burner parts. Page 23
Service and parts. Back Cover
Boiler and Gas Tank Certificate, Pages 21 & 22
(EC Declaration Of Conformity).
Tom Rolt Instruction Booklet

4
TOOL KIT
The following items are included with your locomotive.
One 60ml bottle of special steam oil for use in the lubricator.
One 60ml syringe & plastic tube for filling the boiler with water.
One water top-up pump bottle.
One set of spare washers and ‘0’ rings.
One spare gas jet.
One Allen key for cylinder socket cap screws.
One pair of protective gloves and one cleaning duster.
RUNNING IN
All locomotives are test run before leaving the factory, but will
require several hours of running in, when new, to overcome initial
tightness and allow valves etc. to ‘bed in’ completely. Also, the loco
will waste a proportion of its water and steam until ‘run in’ due to
leaking slide valves, a tendency to prime more, and simply
overcoming the initial tightness of the moving parts.
As the model heats up and cools down each time you raise steam,
screws and nuts have a tendency to stretch and loosen a little so
you will also need to make regular checks and ‘nip up’ any that
become loose. Most are quite visible and easy to get to however if
there is any steam leaking from the valve chests on top of the
cylinders, refer to the Trouble Shooting section.
ACCESS TO THE CONTROLS
For normal operation, all controls are
accessible without the need to remove
any part of the locomotive. However, to
allow access to the gas tank when
filling, the cab roof can be completely
removed.
At the rear,
gently grasp
both sides of the roof and lift up at the
back a small amount.
Now, slide backwards and off. The roof
is held to the cab by magnets at the
rear, and a locating lug at the front.

5
REPLACING THE BATTERIES
The batteries on a model fitted with radio control are located
beneath the right-hand side tank. To remove this and gain access
to the batteries the side tank has to be removed. Lay the
locomotive gently on its left side on a clean soft cloth, to avoid
marking the paintwork.
Under the side tank
towards the front, is a
slotted brass screw.
Carefully remove this
s c r e w u s i n g a
screwdriver, as shown.
With the screw
removed, slide the
side tank towards
the front of the
locomotive.
Gently lift the side tank up
and the batteries will be
found inside. The batteries
can be replaced and the
side tank fitted back to the
locomotive by reversing the
above procedure.
On / Off switch. Radio
Controlled Models Only

6
IDENTIFICATION OF PARTS OF THE LOCOMOTIVE
Radio controlled version illustrated
a) Safety Valve. b) Water Top-Up Valve. c) Pressure Gauge.
d) Gas Filler Valve. e) Gas Tank. f) Gas Regulator.
g) Steam Regulator. h) Gas Jet Holder. i) Water Gauge.
j) Lubricator Drain Screw. k) Lubricator Filler Cap.
a
b
c
d e f
g
h
i
k
j

7
PREPARING FOR OPERATION
The locomotive must be serviced before being operated. It is
important to perform all the following operations.
1) FILLING THE GAS TANK
The filling of the gas tank should only be carried out in a well
ventilated area, where there are no naked lights or other lighted
locomotives close by. Ordinary Butane or Iso-butane gas (as
used in gas cigarette lighters) is the preferred fuel, though for
economy, the larger canisters as used for blowlamps or camping
stoves etc. are better. The larger canisters have an EN417
threaded self sealing valve on top and require a special adapter
to couple up to the filler valve on the locomotive. A special
brass gas filler adapter is obtainable from your local garden
railway supplier or direct from ROUNDHOUSE.
Mixed gasses are also available and may be used if ordinary
butane or Iso-butane are not available, but see the ‘Gas
System’ section for more information on this subject.
Before attempting to fill the gas tank, make sure that the gas
control valve is closed by turning it clockwise.
The filler valve for the gas tank is on top of the tank under the
cab roof. Remove the roof as previously detailed under the
section ‘Access To The Controls’. Invert the gas canister and
place its nozzle over the gas filler valve. Support the tank from
underneath and press the canister down. The gas will be heard
hissing as it enters the tank and a small amount will escape
around the valve. This is quite normal and is the tank venting
as the liquid enters. After about 20 to 30 seconds, liquid gas will
emerge from the valve showing that the tank is full. Remove
the canister immediately.
2) FILLING THE BOILER
There are two methods of filling the boiler.
2a) Quick filling when cold.
The steam dome towards the front of the boiler can be lifted

8
completely off to access the safety valve. This dome is a
substantial and heavy item, being turned from solid brass. Care
is needed when removing the dome, especially when the engine
is hot, as the dome itself will be hot. Take care not to drop the
dome onto the locomotive, as the weight of it may damage the
model. Remove the safety valve by unscrewing it. Using the
60ml syringe and plastic tube supplied, fill the boiler fully to the
top with clean water.
There has to be a space above the water to allow steam to be
raised. So, insert the end of the plastic pipe into the boiler and
withdraw 30ml of water with the syringe. Replace the safety
valve finger tight, and then place the dome back over it.
Distilled water is recommended if available. As an alternative in
soft water areas, clean tap water can be used. Also, rain water
or water from a dehumidifier may be used provided that it is
adequately filtered.
Many people use rain water passed through a wine or coffee
filter to remove any particles or debris. Do not use deionised
water as this type of water, in the long term, may cause
damage to the boiler and fittings.
2b) Filling using the Pump bottle when hot or cold.
In the cab there is a boiler top up valve. Fill the pump bottle
with clean water and push the end of the tube into the top-up
valve. The socket has a slight taper in it, and a little downward
pressure on the tube will ensure a good seal.
Pump the handle on the bottle to inject water into the boiler
whilst maintaining downward pressure on the tube. Keep
pumping until the water level in the water gauge, is almost at
the top of the glass.
Remove the plastic tube. Note that a small amount of water will
remain in the top of the valve but will evaporate away as the
valve heats up.

9
3) LUBRICATION
Regular lubrication of all working parts is important and should
be carried out before each operating session. There are two
types of lubrication required: The external moving linkages and
bearings are lubricated with a medium oil such as motor engine
oil, and the internal steam mechanisms such as cylinders,
pistons and valves are lubricated with a special steam oil that is
mixed with the steam. Infrequent external lubrication will allow
parts to run dry, and over oiling can form pools around
operating parts that attract dirt and grit. If too thin an oil is
used it will evaporate very quickly as the loco gets hot –leading
to dry running. We recommend the use of a 20-50 motor oil for
external lubrication.
Internal lubrication is achieved by steam oil that is mixed with
the steam in the displacement lubricator, housed in the left-
hand side, under the dummy coal load. Remove the knurled cap
from the top of the lubricator and slacken the drain screw at the
bottom but do not remove it. Any water in the lubricator will run
out through the holes in the drain screw. Tighten the drain
screw and refill with the steam oil supplied, then replace the
cap. Take time filling the lubricator, especially when cold, as the
oil takes time to run down and may trap an air bubble. Both cap
and drain screw are fitted with ‘0’ rings and need only be closed
finger tight.
NOTE: Only special steam oil as supplied should be used in the
lubricator and under no circumstances should ordinary oil be
substituted, or damage may result.
The gas and steam regulators will require periodic lubrication.
See the troubleshooting section for details.
4) LIGHTING THE BURNER
WARNING: Before lighting, read the ‘Gas System’ section in
the ‘Trouble Shooting and Maintenance’ section so that you are
aware of any potential problems. If the gas system is not
operating correctly, shut it off immediately or damage may
result.

10
Move the locomotive to another location before lighting. Butane
is heavier than air and small pockets of gas can collect around
the locomotive during filling.
To light the burner, hold a lighted match or cigarette lighter
over the top of the chimney and slowly open the gas regulator
by turning it anti-clockwise. The gas should ignite almost
immediately with a pop as the flame travels down the chimney
and into the boiler tube. The burner should be audible but not
too loud.
NOTE as stated above, the gas regulator should be opened
slowly until the burner ignites. If opened too quickly,
particularly when the engine is cold or if the gas tank has just
been filled, it is possible that the flame may not travel back into
the boiler flue but stay in the smokebox. If this should happen,
the burner will sound quite different to normal and the blue
flame will be visible in the smokebox if viewed down the
chimney from a safe height. Should this happen, turn off the
gas immediately or damage may result and then re-light it. If
the problem persists and it is not possible to ignite the burner
correctly, then a dirty jet should be suspected and cleaned as
detailed in the ’Gas System’ section.
For the first couple of minutes keep the burner on low. This is
important, as until it warms up, the flame will be a little
unstable and turning it up too much could cause it to go out.
Also, with a completely full tank, liquid gas could be drawn off
instead of vaporised gas, which can also extinguish the flame.
After a couple of minutes, the gas control valve can be opened
more to speed up steam raising. Open the gas regulator slowly
to about one full turn. The full range of adjustment (closed to
fully open) is achieved within the first full rotation of the gas
regulator knob any more is unnecessary.

11
RUNNING THE LOCOMOTIVE
When full working pressure has been reached (about 40psi), the
safety valve will start to blow off steam. Steam generation can
be controlled by the gas valve in the cab. If the safety valve
blows off frequently during running, then too much steam is
being produced, which wastes water and gas. Turning down the
burner will decrease the amount of steam created. Conversely,
if steam pressure is not maintained during a run, then the
burner should be turned up.
After a few minutes of running it may be noticed that the gas
pressure through the burner has increased. This is due to the
gas tank becoming warmer and so increasing the gas pressure.
Simply turn the gas down –this may need to be performed
several times during a run. The art of balancing steam
generation to the operational requirement by the adjustment of
the gas control valve will quickly be learned.
The gas tank has a duration of about 20 minutes, though this
will vary a little depending on gas valve setting. The boiler
should not be allowed to run dry, and the gas tank capacity is
such that the gas should run out before the water. When the
gas is fully used up, the steam pressure in the boiler will be
seen to gradually drop until the loco comes to a halt. Should the
water expire before the gas is fully used, the pressure will drop
rapidly and the loco will stop. Check the pressure gauge –if this
is zero turn off the gas. No damage will result if the gas is
turned off immediately.
DRIVING THE LOCOMOTIVE MANUALLY
On manually controlled locomotives, there are three main
controls, all of which are housed in the cab.
1) The gas regulator, which should be used to control steam
generation as described earlier.
2) The reversing lever. This is under the left-hand side tank and
is moved fully forward for running in a forward direction and full
back to run in the reverse direction.

12
3) The regulator. This is the main steam control valve and
regulates the speed at which the engine will run. The regulator
handle is situated in the right hand cab doorway and is moved
anti-clockwise to open and clockwise to close.
Using the reversing lever, select the desired direction of travel
and open the regulator a little. Initially, there will be a certain
amount of water in the pipes and cylinders, which will exhaust
through the chimney and, after a few moments, the engine will
move jerkily, until this clears.
Once the parts have warmed up, the engine will move off
steadily and its’ speed can be controlled with the regulator.
Subsequent starts will be quite smooth once the cylinders etc.
have reached their normal operating temperature.
To reverse the locomotive, close the regulator to bring it to a
halt, move the reversing lever over and open the regulator
again.
The art of fine control will soon be learnt with a little practice.
Reversing Lever -
Manually Controlled
Locomotives Only

13
DRIVING BY RADIO CONTROL
This model is fitted with 2.4 GHz R/C equipment. On a Radio
Controlled model, speed and direction are controlled by the
transmitter. First, turn on the transmitter and then turn on the
receiver using the switch on the locomotive. This is located on
the right hand side of the locomotive, in the frame under the
cab floor. See photo on Page 5.
The left hand stick on the transmitter controls the steam
regulator, down for stop, up for go.
The right hand stick operates the reverser, left for forward and
right for reverse. This stick is sprung loaded to return to its
central position (horizontally) for the reverser function.
Using the transmitter, select the desired direction of travel and
then slowly open the regulator. The locomotive will now move
off as described in the manual control section.
For more information on using the radio control equipment, see
the manufacturer’s instruction booklet supplied with the Radio
Control Set.
The art of fine control will soon be learnt with a little practice
It is good practice to switch on the transmitter before the
receiver and, at the end of a run, switch off the receiver before
the transmitter. In this way, the radio receiver in the locomotive
is never on when the transmitter is switched off and so the
Locomotive should always be under your control.
NOTE: Always make sure that the valve gear is fully in Forward
or Reverse when the engine is moving. The model is fitted with
a simplified Walschaerts type valve gear which is not suitable
for 'notching up' (altering the cut off).
Always bring the locomotive to a halt by closing the regulator
before changing direction. If an emergency stop is required,
simply release Forward / Reverse lever, which will spring back
to mid gear and halt the train. Then close the regulator. Always

14
ensure that the regulator is closed before switching off the
transmitter.
Always switch off the receiver and transmitter when not in use
to preserve battery life.
When the batteries are getting low, a poor signal between
transmitter and receiver will result and control of the engine will
become erratic. Change the batteries immediately.
WATER TOP UP SYSTEM
A water top up system is fitted to this model. This enables the
water level in the boiler to be monitored and topped up to keep
the engine in steam for long periods. Once the locomotive is in
operation as detailed in the previous sections, water can be
added to the boiler at any time during the run as follows. Fill
the water pump bottle from your usual water supply.
Bring the locomotive to a halt in a convenient place.
Remove the cab roof to gain access to the water top-up valve.

15
Push the end of the plastic tube into the socket in the top of the
water filling valve.
Whilst still holding the pipe in position and exerting slight
downward pressure, pump the handle and this will inject water
into the boiler.
You will sometimes see water and air bubbles passing through
the sight glass as you pump so allow the level to settle after a
few pumps. Carefully pull the plastic pipe out of the water filling
valve whilst steadying the engine.
Sometimes, small particles of dirt will find their way in with the
water and may cause the water filling valve to leak back a little
when the pipe is removed. If this does happen, re-connect the
pipe and give a further pump or two of water to clear it. A small
amount of water may remain in the socket once the plastic pipe
has been removed and will boil off as the fittings return to
normal operating temperature. This is quite normal.
Once you start running your loco you will see the water level in
the gauge slowly dropping. Note that air bubbles may
sometimes form in the gauge giving a false reading but these
can be pushed out by connecting the pipe from the water pump
to the water filling connector and injecting some water.
It is better to pump small amounts of water into the boiler at
frequent intervals as this maintains a more even boiler pressure
and prevents long waits while the cold water heats up and
pressure returns to normal operating level.
Aim to keep the water level between ½ and ¾ up the gauge
and re-fill the gas tank as detailed earlier whenever it is empty.
In this way, you can keep the loco in steam and at working
pressure as long as you like.
Don’t forget to re-fill the displacement lubricator about every 45
minutes.

16
STORAGE BETWEEN OPERATING SESSIONS
At the end of an operating session, it is good practice to clean
the locomotive carefully with a clean soft cloth, and to oil all
bright metal parts.
 Do not leave fuel or water in the tank or boiler for long
periods.
 Do not store in places where the temperature may drop
below freezing, as water may still be present in the
pipework.
 Ensure all controls are closed and the valve gear in mid
gear.
 Ensure that radio control equipment is switched off and, if
the engine is not to be used for some time, remove all
batteries.
Periodically it may be necessary to wash off all traces of dirt and
old oil from the moving parts with paraffin (not thinners). This
will remove any accumulations of dirt or grit. After washing with
paraffin, leave to dry thoroughly overnight before re-oiling. It is
most important that clean oil is applied and allowed to
penetrate fully into all moving parts before the locomotive is run
again. Manually moving the locomotive back and forth will assist
in distributing the oil fully. Under normal operating conditions
this procedure should not be required more than once or twice
per year.
TROUBLE SHOOTING & MAINTENANCE
On a working model of this nature, it is important to keep all
working parts well lubricated. With constant heating up, cooling
down and the stresses of hard work, screws etc. can work loose
so, it is good practice to check all fixings and cylinder screws
regularly but remember, never over tighten.
STEAM LEAKS
The cylinders are fitted with 'O' rings in the glands sealing both
piston and valve rods. These can be adjusted with a spanner if
steam leaks develop. They should only be tightened just enough
to stop the leak, as over tightening will affect the running

17
The front and rear cylinder covers are fitted with gaskets and
the valve chests with ’O’ rings. A little ‘bubbling’ of oil may
sometimes occur around these and is quite normal; however,
steam leaking past the gasket should be attended to. If ‘nipping
up’ the retaining screws does not stop a steam leak, a service
kit is available which includes replacement gaskets and seals
and full instructions for fitting. To access a valve chest the side
tank will need to be removed. Refer to the ‘Replacing The
batteries’ section as this details how to remove a side tank. The
cylinders are fitted with a cylinder cover. This simply clips
around the cylinder and will need to be removed to gain access
to the valve chest cover. Spring it gently out from the bottom
and lift off the valve chest at the top.
To access the front cylinder cover the front buffer beam has to
be removed. The buffer beam is fixed to the chassis by the two
buffers using a brass nut at the rear. Carefully remove both of
these nuts with a suitable spanner. The buffer beam and buffers
can now be removed.
This nut holds the
Buffer and Buffer
Beam to the chassis.

18
REGULATOR NOT SHUTTING (R/C models)
The steam regulator seating and seal can, after a period of time
become worn or compressed so that when the lever on the
radio control is fully closed, the locomotive still moves. To
overcome this, a trimmer is fitted to the transmitter. This is the
small lever at the side of the main control lever and is set at the
factory to the top of its slot. As wear takes place in the
regulator, it can slowly be moved down the slot to compensate.
When it reaches the bottom, it is time to reset it to the top and
adjust the linkage between the servo and the regulator in the
cab.
If adjustment does not cure this problem, the internal '0' ring
may be damaged and requires replacement. Contact the factory
for further advice. Periodic oiling of the gland will help keep the
regulator working freely. Place a spot of motor oil between the
gland nut and the regulator arm and work the regulator a few
times.
RADIO CONTROL
If the radio control gives problems, always check the batteries
first and replace if in doubt. AA size batteries are used, both in
the locomotive and in the transmitter.
GAS SYSTEM
Tom Rolt locomotives are fitted with our 'FG' type gas burner,
which is set up and fully tested at the factory.
This system is designed for use with Butane or Iso-Butane gas.
Mixed gasses, i.e. Butane with a proportion of Propane mixed
in, are available, and may be used if straight Butane is
unavailable. These come in a variety of mixes ranging from
90/10 to 60/40 with one of the most common being 70/30. The
figures refer to the proportions of the mix i.e. 70/30 contains
70% butane and 30% propane. If using mixed gasses, always
choose the one with the largest proportion of butane. The
addition of propane slightly alters the properties of the gas. This
can make the burner a little more difficult to light when cold or
after filling the gas tank. Always open the regulator very slowly

19
when lighting, and only just sufficient for ignition to take place.
Opening too much too soon may extinguish the flame until the
burner reaches normal operating temperature.
The tiny jet in these units can become blocked by small
particles of dirt making the burner difficult to light, burn weakly
at normal operating temperatures*, burn in the smokebox or
fail completely. If any of these should happen, clean out the jet
as follows.(* On very cold days, a burner may start off burning
weakly due to the temperature of the gas but should increase to
its normal level as the engine warms up. This is quite normal).
Carefully, disconnect the gas pipe from the gas jet holder using
a 2BA spanner.
Note when connecting or disconnecting the gas pipe and jet
block, do not use excessive force. Always hold the end of the
gas burner near the air holes to support it otherwise it is
possible to cause damage by bending the body.
Slacken the screw retaining the gas jet holder and slide it out to
the rear. Remove the jet from the gas jet holder using a 4BA
spanner. Wash out the jet in fast evaporating thinner (Cellulose
or similar). Blow through the jet from the front, which should
clear most blockages. Although the hole through the jet is tiny,
if you hold it up to the light you should be able to see quite
clearly if it is blocked or not. If in doubt, fit a new jet. A spare
gas jet is included with the toolkit. Do not use wire to clean the
jet as this can damage the precision hole and may upset the
delicate balance of the gas system. Reassemble in the reverse
order, putting a small amount of PTFE tape round the thread of
the jet. Ensure all connections are tight. When re-positioning
the gas jet holder in the burner, ensure that it is pushed in as
far as it will go.
The gas regulator has a spindle ‘O’ ring housed inside the body
which may need lubrication from time to time if the control
becomes ‘spongy’ in operation, making precise gas control
difficult.

20
As stated in the lighting instructions the full range of
adjustment for normal burner operation is achieved within the
first full rotation of the regulator knob, and it should only be
unscrewed more than this for maintenance purposes and when
the tank is empty, and there are no naked lights nearby.
To lubricate it, remove the knurled knob which is retained by a
M3 socket grub screw in the side. Beneath the knob is a back-
lash spring and white PTFE washer which will slide off the
spindle. Unscrew the hexagon retaining nut then screw the
spindle out of the body. The ‘O’ ring can now be lubricated.
Replace the spindle followed by the retaining nut. Slide the
white PTFE washer and backlash spring over the spindle and
replace the knob. Note that the grub screw that holds the knob
in place tightens into a groove near the end of the spindle.
Gas Regulator (Internal Parts)
Regulator
Body
Back-Lash
Spring
Regulator
Spindle
White PTFE
Washer
Knurled
Knob
‘O’ ring to be
lubricated
Hexagon
Retaining
Nut