roundhouse SAMMIE & BERTIE User guide

SAMMIE & BERTIE
Basic Series Locomotives
Owners Handbook
For the Sammie and Bertie Locomotives

Operating Instructions
IMPORTANT:
Read these instructions carefully before operating the locomotive.
The following items are required for running this engine and are not
included with the model.
Fuel Butane gas. See 'Filling the gas tank'
Water See 'Filling the boiler'
Lubricating oil See 'Lubrication'
SAFETY PRECAUTIONS
This is a working model locomotive using steam under pressure
and highly flammable fuel. Provided it is operated with reasonable
care and attention, no problems should arise.
It is intended for use out of doors and must only be operated in a
well ventilated area.
Whilst the locomotive is in use, hot gasses are exhausted up the
chimney and excess steam frequently blows off through the safety
valve even when stationary, so operator and spectators should not
bend over the model. As you will appreciate, this is not a toy and is
therefore unsuitable for young unsupervised children.
Follow manufacturer’s recommendations regarding the safe
storage of Butane gas canisters.
Some areas of the model will get quite hot whilst it is operating so
be aware of this and take extra care when handling or operating
the locomotive. Always have to hand either a fire extinguisher or
wet cloth when operating the model.
2

CONTENTS
Tool kit Page 4
Running in Page 4
Identification of parts of the locomotive Page 5
Preparations for operation Page 6
1. Filling the Gas Tank Page 6
2. Filling the Boiler Page 7
3. Lubrication Page 8
4. Lighting the Burner Page 9
Driving the locomotive Page 10
Storage between operating sessions Page 12
Trouble shooting & maintenance. Page 13
Steam Leaks. Page 14
Gas System. Page 14
Boiler and Gas Tank Certificate, Pages 17 & 18
(EC Declaration Of Conformity).
Service and Parts. Page 20
3
Sammie & Bertie
Instruction Booklet

TOOL KIT
The following items are included with your locomotive.
One small bottle of special steam oil for use in the lubricator.
One 60ml syringe with plastic tube for filling the boiler with water.
One spare gas jet.
One set of spare washers and ‘0’ rings.
One Allen key for cylinder socket cap screws.
RUNNING IN
All locomotives are test run before leaving the factory, but will
require several hours of running in, when new, to overcome initial
tightness and allow valves etc. to ‘bed in’. The locomotive will
waste a proportion of its water and steam until ‘run in’ due to
leaking slide valves, a tendency to prime more, and simply
overcoming the initial tightness of the moving parts. Take note in
the ‘Lighting the burner’ section regarding this matter.
As the model heats up and cools down each time you raise steam,
screws and nuts have a tendency to stretch and loosen a little so
you will also need to make regular checks and ‘nip up’ any that
become loose. Most are quite visible and easy to get to however if
there is any steam leaking from the valve chests on top of the
cylinder or front cylinder covers, refer to the Trouble Shooting
section.
Note: - When steam has been raised and you are ready to run, it is
advisable to connect a heavy truck or flat wagon with a weight (up
to 20lbs) for the locomotive to pull. The design of the model is such
that when the boiler is initially full of water, opening the regulator
may allow water to pass through the steam regulator. As this
reaches the superheater, the water will flash into steam causing the
locomotive to accelerate rapidly. An alternative method is to initially
run the locomotive on blocks or a ‘rolling road’.
After 5 to 10 minutes the water level in the boiler will have reduced
and the model can be run light, if desired.
When the locomotive is fully bedded in, this tendency will lessen.
4

IDENTIFICATION OF PARTS
OF THE LOCOMOTIVE
1/ Steam regulator. 2/ Gas regulator.
3/ Gas filler valve. 4/ Gas burner.
5

PREPARING FOR OPERATION
The locomotive must be serviced before being operated. It is
important to perform all the following operations.
1) FILLING THE GAS TANK
The filling of the gas tank should only be carried out in a well-
ventilated area, where there are no naked lights or other lighted
locomotives close by. Ordinary Butane or Iso-butane gas (as used
in gas cigarette lighters) is the preferred fuel, though for economy,
the larger canisters as used for blowlamps or camping stoves etc.
are better. The larger canisters have an EN417 threaded self
sealing valve on top and require a special adapter to couple up to
the filler valve on the locomotive. A special brass gas filler adapter
is obtainable from your local garden railway supplier or direct from
ROUNDHOUSE.
Mixed gasses are also available and may be used if ordinary
butane or iso-butane are not available, but see ‘Gas System’ on
page 13 for more information on this subject.
Before attempting to fill the gas tank, make sure that the gas
control valve is closed by turning it clockwise.
The filler valve for the gas tank is on top of the tank under the cab
roof. Invert the gas canister and place its nozzle over the gas filler
valve. Support the tank from underneath and press the canister
down. The gas will be heard hissing as it enters the tank and a
small amount will escape around the valve. This is quite normal
and is the tank venting as the liquid enters.
After about 20 to 30 seconds, liquid gas will emerge from the valve
showing that the tank is full. Remove the canister immediately.
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2) FILLING THE BOILER
The boiler is filled with water through the safety valve bush, housed
on top of the boiler under the dome nearest the cab. This painted
brass dome is a substantial and heavy item, being turned from
solid brass. Care is needed when removing the dome, especially
when the engine is hot, as the dome itself will be hot. Take care not
to drop the dome onto the locomotive, as the weight of it may
damage the model. Lift off the dummy steam dome and then
remove the safety valve by unscrewing it using the knurled ring at
its base. Fill the boiler right to the top with clean water. Distilled
water is recommended if available. As an alternative to distilled
water if this is unavailable, clean tap water can be used in soft
water areas. Also, rain water or water from a dehumidifier can be
used provided that it is adequately filtered
Do not use deionised water as this type of water may cause long
term damage to the boiler and fittings.
There has to be a space above the water to allow steam to be
raised so, insert the end of the plastic pipe into the boiler and
withdraw 30ml of water with the syringe. Replace the safety valve
finger tight.

3) LUBRICATION
Regular lubrication of all working parts is important and should be
carried out before each operating session. There are two types of
lubrication required: The external moving linkages and bearings are
lubricated with a medium oil such as motor engine oil, and the
internal steam mechanisms such as cylinders, pistons and valves
are lubricated with a special steam oil that is mixed with the steam.
Infrequent external lubrication will allow parts to run dry, and over
oiling can form pools around operating parts that attract dirt and
grit. If too thin an oil is used it will evaporate very quickly as the
loco gets hot –leading to dry running. We recommend the use of a
20-50 motor oil for external lubrication.
The slip eccentric valve gear is located between the rear wheels
and the frames and is lubricated by running oil down the back of
the wheels. Internal lubrication is achieved by steam oil that is
mixed with the steam in the displacement lubricator, housed in the
left-hand side of the cab. Remove the knurled cap from the top of
the lubricator. Locate the knurled lubricator drain screw located
under the cab floor. Unscrew this two or three turns, but do not
remove it. Any water in the lubricator will run out through the hole in
the drain screw. When the water has finished draining, tighten the
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drain screw and refill the lubricator from the top with the steasm oil
supplied. Replace the cap. Take time filling the lubricator,
especially when cold, as the oil takes time to run down and may
trap an air bubble. Both cap and drain screw are fitted with ‘0’ rings
and need only be closed finger tight.
NOTE: Only special steam oil as supplied should be used in the
lubricator and under no circumstances should ordinary oil be
substituted, or damage may result. The gas and steam regulators
will require periodic lubrication –see the troubleshooting section for
details.
4) LIGHTING THE BURNER
WARNING: Before lighting read the section on gas system
troubleshooting and be aware of potential problems. If the gas
system is not operating correctly, shut it off immediately or
damage may result.
After filling the gas tank, move the locomotive to another location
before lighting. Butane is heavier than air and small pockets of gas
can collect around the locomotive during filling. To light the burner,
hold a lighted match or cigarette lighter over the top of the chimney
and slowly open the gas regulator by turning it anti-clockwise. The
gas should ignite almost immediately with a pop as the flame
travels down the chimney and into the boiler tube. The burner
should be audible but not too loud.
NOTE as stated above, the gas regulator should be opened slowly
until the burner ignites. If opened too quickly, particularly when the
engine is cold or if the gas tank has just been filled, it is possible
that the flame may not travel back into the boiler flue but stay in the
smokebox. If this should happen, the burner will sound quite
different to normal and the blue flame will be visible in the
smokebox if viewed down the chimney from a safe height. Should
this happen, turn off the gas immediately or damage may result,
and then re-light it. If the problem persists, and it is not possible to
ignite the burner correctly, then refer to gas system
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troubleshooting. For the first couple of minutes keep the burner on
low. This is important, as until it warms up, the flame will be a little
unstable and turning it up too much could cause it to go out. Also,
with a completely full tank, liquid gas could be drawn off instead of
vaporised gas, which can also extinguish the flame. After a couple
of minutes, the gas control valve can be opened more to speed up
steam raising. Open the gas regulator slowly to about one full turn.
The full range of adjustment (closed to fully open) is achieved
within the first full rotation of the gas regulator knob any more is
unnecessary. .
When full working pressure has been reached (about 40psi), the
safety valve will start to blow off steam, this can take up to 10 or 12
minutes in outdoor locations. Steam generation can be controlled
by the gas valve in the cab. If the safety valve blows off frequently
during running, then too much steam is being produced, which
wastes water and gas. Turning down the burner will decrease the
amount of steam made. Conversely, if steam pressure is not
maintained during a run, then the burner should be turned up. The
art of balancing steam generation to the operational requirement by
the adjustment of the gas control valve will quickly be learned. The
gas tank has a duration of about 25 minutes, though this will vary a
little depending on the gas valve setting.
DRIVING THE LOCOMOTIVE
There are two main controls, both of which are housed in the cab.
1) The gas regulator, which should be used to control steam
generation as described earlier.
2) The steam regulator. This is the main steam control valve and
regulates the speed at which the engine will run. The regulator
handle is situated in the right hand cab doorway and is moved anti-
clockwise to open and clockwise to close.
Select the desired direction of travel by manually moving the
locomotive for one wheel revolution in the desired direction and
crack open the regulator just a little. Initially, there will be a certain
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amount of water in the pipes and cylinders which will cause the
engine to run jerkily until it is exhausted through the chimney. This
is known as priming and is quite normal and will clear after a few
moments. If the engine appears to ‘lock up’ during initial starting
from cold, it is often helpful to close the regulator and gently move
the engine manually to expel the excess water from the cylinders
then open the regulator just a little to allow a small amount of
steam through. It is also helpful to reverse direction of the
locomotive with the regulator closed, then open the regulator just a
little and run in reverse for a short distance. This may have to be
repeated until all water clears but avoid forcing or jerking the
engine as this will only aggravate the matter. Gently does it and
small regulator openings will ensure the quickest results.
Once the parts have warmed up, the engine will move off steadily
and its speed can be controlled with the regulator. Subsequent
starts will be quite smooth once the cylinders etc. have reached
their normal operating temperature and the water level in the boiler
has dropped a little. This tendency to prime will often reduce as the
loco becomes ‘run in’.
To reverse the locomotive, close the regulator to bring it to a halt,
move the engine manually for one wheel revolution in the desired
direction and open the regulator again. Take care when holding the
engine to reverse it as it will be very hot in places.
The art of fine control will soon be learnt with a little practice.
Once the gas has all been used, the burner will go out and steam
pressure will drop until it is so low that the loco will no longer run.
When this happens, close both the steam and gas regulators and
allow the loco to cool down before preparing for another run. Once
it is cool enough to remove the safety valve, refill water, gas and
lubricator as previously described ready for the next run.
The boiler should not be allowed to run dry, but as the gas is
designed to run out before the water, this should not happen under
normal running conditions and if the engine is sufficiently ‘run in‘.
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The gas tank has a duration of about 25 minutes, though this will
vary a little depending on gas valve setting. The boiler should not
be allowed to run dry, and the gas tank capacity is such that the
gas should run out before the water. When the gas is fully used up,
the steam pressure in the boiler will gradually drop until the loco
comes to a halt. Should the water expire before the gas is fully
used, the pressure will drop rapidly and the loco will stop. If this
happens, turn off the gas. No damage will result if the gas is turned
off immediately. Remember, leaving the burner lit under an
empty boiler can cause damage.
For those who would like longer runs, a set of parts is available
from ROUNDHOUSE to add a water level gauge and water filling
system. This allows the boiler to be topped up at any time and
maintain a fairly constant water level. The gas tank will still require
refilling each time it is empty.
STORAGE BETWEEN OPERATING SESSIONS
At the end of an operating session, it is good practice to clean the
locomotive carefully with a clean soft cloth, and to oil all bright
metal parts.
 Do not leave fuel or water in the tank or boiler for long
periods.
 Do not store in places where the temperature may drop below
freezing as water may still be present in the pipe work.
 Ensure all controls are closed.
Periodically it may be necessary to wash off all traces of dirt and
old oil from the moving parts with paraffin (not thinners). This will
remove any accumulations of dirt or grit. After washing with
paraffin, leave to dry thoroughly overnight before re-oiling. It is
most important that clean oil is applied and allowed to penetrate
fully into all moving parts before the locomotive is run again.
Manually moving the locomotive back and forth will assist in
distributing the oil fully. Under normal operating conditions this
procedure should not be required more than once or twice per
year.
12

13
TROUBLE SHOOTING & MAINTENANCE
On a working model of this nature, it is important to keep all
working parts well lubricated.
With constant heating up, cooling down and the stresses of hard
work, screws etc. can work loose particularly over the first few
hours of running. It is good practice to check all fixings and cylinder
screws regularly but remember, never over tighten.
STEAM LEAKS
The cylinders are fitted with '0' rings in the glands sealing both
piston and valve rods. These can be adjusted with a spanner if
steam leaks develop. They should only be tightened just enough to
stop the leak, as over tightening will affect the running of the model.
Cylinder covers are fitted with gaskets and valve chests with ’O’
rings.
A little ‘bubbling’ of oil may sometimes occur around these and is
quite normal; however, steam leaking past the gasket should be
attended to. If ‘nipping up’ retaining screws does not stop a steam

leak, a service kit is available which includes replacement gaskets
and seals and full instructions for fitting. Steam leaking from the
front or rear cylinder covers can be cured by carefully tightening the
four screws that hold each one to the cylinder block. These covers
are fitted with gaskets. For the front screws, you will need to
remove the front buffer beam which is held on by two brass cheese
head screws through its front face.
The valve chests are sealed with ‘O’ rings and tightening the four
countersunk retaining screws (but be careful not to over tighten)
will stop any leaks.
GAS SYSTEM
Locomotives are fitted with our 'FG' type gas burner, which is set
up and fully tested at the factory.
This system is designed for use with Butane or Iso-Butane gas.
Mixed gasses, i.e. Butane with a proportion of Propane mixed in,
are available, and may be used if straight Butane is unavailable.
These come in a variety of mixes ranging from 90/10 to 60/40 with
one of the most common being 70/30. The figures refer to the
proportions of the mix i.e. 70/30 contains 70% butane and 30%
propane.
If using mixed gasses, always choose the one with the largest
proportion of butane. The addition of propane slightly alters the
gasses properties. This can make the burner a little more difficult to
light when cold or after filling the gas tank. Always open the
regulator very slowly when lighting, and only just sufficient for
ignition to take place. Opening too much too soon may extinguish
the flame until the burner reaches normal operating temperature.
The tiny jet in these units can become blocked by small particles of
dirt making the burner difficult to light, burn weakly at normal
operating temperatures*, burn in the smokebox or fail completely. If
any of these should happen, clean out the jet as follows.
(* On very cold days, a burner may start off burning weakly due to
14

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the temperature of the gas but should increase to its normal level
as the engine warms up. This is quite normal)
Carefully, disconnect the gas pipe from the gas jet holder using a
2BA spanner.
Note when connecting or disconnecting the gas pipe and jet block,
do not use excessive force. Always hold the end of the gas burner
near the air holes to support it otherwise it is possible to cause
damage by bending the body. Slacken the screw retaining the gas
jet holder and slide it out to the rear. Remove the jet from the gas
jet holder using a 4BA spanner.
Wash out the jet in fast evaporating thinner (Cellulose or similar).
Blow through the jet from the front, which should clear most
blockages. Although the hole through the jet is tiny, if you hold it up
to the light you should be able to see quite clearly if it is blocked or
not. If in doubt, fit a new jet. A spare gas jet is included with the
toolkit.
Do not use wire to clean the jet as this can damage the precision
hole and may upset the delicate balance of the gas system. Re-
assemble in the reverse order, putting a small amount of PTFE
tape round the thread of the jet. Ensure all connections are tight.
When re-positioning the gas jet holder in the burner, ensure that it
is pushed in as far as it will go.
The gas regulator has a spindle ‘O’ ring housed inside the body
which may need lubrication from time to time if the control becomes
‘spongy’ in operation, making precise gas control difficult.
As stated in the lighting instructions on page 8, the full range of
adjustment for normal burner operation is achieved within the first
full rotation of the regulator knob, and it should only be unscrewed
more than this for maintenance purposes and when the tank is
empty, and there are no naked lights nearby.
To lubricate it, remove the knurled knob which is retained by a M3
socket grub screw (M1.5 AF Allen key required) in the side.

16
Beneath the knob is a back-lash spring and white PTFE washer
which will slide off the spindle.
Unscrew the hexagon retaining nut then screw the spindle out of
the body.
The ‘O’ ring can now be lubricated.
Replace the spindle followed by the retaining nut. Slide the white
PTFE washer and backlash spring over the spindle and replace the
knob. Note that the grub screw that holds the knob in place tightens
into a groove near the end of the spindle.
Gas Regulator (Internal Parts)
Regulator
Body
Back-Lash
Spring
Regulator
Spindle
White PTFE
Washer
Knurled
Knob
‘O’ ring to be
lubricated
Hexagon
Retaining
Nut

Model: SAMMIE or BERTIE
Description and specification of equipment covered
Serial No.:
Signed
R. Loxley (director)
Vessel
for
Group 1
gasses
and asso-
ciated pipe
work and
Model: Type ‘B’ gas tank Serial No.:
Test date:
Stea
m
Gen
era
tor an
d as
soci at
ed
pipe
work
and
Serial No.:
Test date:
EC
Model: Type 4 boiler
ROU
Dated ………………..
17

Please refer to the ‘owner’s handbook’ for your particular model of
locomotive, for details on correct use of these pressure vessels.
Pressure vessel care and maintenance
Gas tank
The gas tank is used for the storage of LPG (liquefied petroleum gas) in
the form of butane, iso-butane or as set out in the ‘owners handbook’.
The tank is fitted with a self-venting filler valve which contains no
serviceable parts. Should the filler valve become defective in any way, it
must be replaced with a new item.
It is recommended that the gas tank should undergo the following checks,
carried out by a ‘competent person’, club, society or pressure vessel
manufacturer, every year:-
1/ thorough visual inspection.
And every five to ten years:-
1/ hydrostatic pressure test to not less than 1.5 and not more than 2
times the maximum working pressure.
Boiler
The boiler is fitted with a safety valve to prevent the steam pressure rising
above the maximum allowable working pressure. This is pre-set to open
at between 2.38 bar (35 psi) and 2.72 bar (40 psi) and must not be
adjusted to increase this value.
If the safety valve becomes defective in any way, it should be replaced or
returned to the factory for service and calibration.
It is recommended that the boiler should undergo the following checks,
carried out by a ‘competent person’, club, society, or pressure vessel
manufacturer, every one to two years:-
1/ thorough visual inspection.
2/ hydrostatic pressure test to not less than 1.5 and not more than 2
times the maximum working pressure.
3/ steam test to check the correct functioning of all steam controls, gauge
and safety valve.
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Gas Burner
1). Superheater Pipe. 2). Lubricator Pipe.
3). Gas Jet Holder retaining screw. 4). Gas Jet.
5). Gas Jet Holder. 6). Gas Pipe.
7). Gas Burner fixing screw. 8). Air Inlet Holes.
19

SERVICE AND PARTS
If' any problems arise with this model which are not covered in
these operating instructions or, spare parts are required, owners
should first contact their local dealer. Your ROUNDHOUSE dealer is;
www.roundhouse-eng.com
If your dealer is unable to help, you may contact the Factory directly;
ROUNDHOUSE ENGINEERING CO. LTD.
Units 6-10 Churchill Business Park. Churchill Road.
Wheatley. Doncaster. DN1 2TF. England
Telephone [phone] Fax [phone]
e-mail: [e-mail]
ONLINE
Millie Bertie Sammie
The Roundhouse ‘Basic Series’ family.