roundhouse RUSSELL User guide

RUSSELL
Owners Handbook
For the Russell Locomotive

Operating Instructions
IMPORTANT: Read these instructions carefully before operating
the locomotive.
The following items are required for running this engine and are not
included with the model.
Fuel Butane gas. See 'Filling the gas tank'
Water See 'Filling the boiler'
Lubricating oil See 'Lubrication'
SAFETY PRECAUTIONS
This is a working model locomotive using steam under pressure
and highly flammable fuel. Provided it is operated with reasonable
care and attention, no problems should arise.
It is intended for use out of doors and must only be operated in a
well ventilated area.
Whilst the locomotive is in use, hot gasses are exhausted up the
chimney and excess steam frequently blows off through the safety
valve even when stationary, so operator and spectators should not
bend over the model.
As you will appreciate, this is not a toy and is therefore unsuitable
for young unsupervised children.
Follow manufacturer’s recommendations regarding the safe
storage of Butane gas canisters.
Some areas of the model will get quite hot whilst it is operating, so
a pair of gloves is provided in the tool kit for your protection.
Always have to hand either a fire extinguisher or wet cloth when
operating the model.
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CONTENTS
Tool kit Page 4
Running in Page 4
Access to controls Page 4
Identification of parts of the locomotive Page 5
Preparations for operation Page 6
1. Filling the Gas Tank Page 6
2. Filling the Boiler Page 6
3. Lubrication Page 7
4. Lighting the Burner Page 8
Running the locomotive Page 9
Driving manually Page 10
Driving by radio control Page 11
Storage between operating sessions Page 12
Altering wheel gauge Page 13
Trouble shooting & maintenance Page 14
Gas system Page 15
Boiler and Gas Tank Certificate, Pages 17 & 18
(EC Declaration Of Conformity).
Service and Parts. Page20
3
Russell Instruction Booklet

TOOL KIT
The following items are included with your locomotive.
One 60ml bottle of special steam oil for use in the cylinder lubricator.
One 60ml syringe with plastic tube for filling the boiler with water.
One set of spare washers and ‘0’ rings.
One spare gas jet.
One Allen key for cylinder socket cap screws.
One pair of protective gloves.
One cleaning duster.
One wheel setting (back to back) gauge and key.
RUNNING IN
All locomotives are extensively test run before leaving the factory, but
they will still require a certain amount of running in when new, to
overcome initial tightness and allow valves etc. to ‘bed in’.
ACCESS TO THE CONTROLS
For normal operation, all controls are accessible without the need to
remove any part of the locomotive, however, to give access to the gas
tank when filling, and the batteries on a radio controlled model, the cab
roof hinges up from the side. Care should be taken when opening the cab
roof. Gently grasp the front and rear of the roof hinge and firstly lift the
hinge vertically upwards. This will lift the hinge clear of the cab, and allow
the roof to then tilt to the side. Batteries are not included.
The gas regulator is accessed by hinging up the roof. On manual control
engines, the steam regulator is accessible through the right hand cab
doorway and reversing lever through the left hand cab doorway.
The switch for the locomotive r/c equipment is under the right hand
footplate. The radio control receiver is housed in the right hand side tank
and is accessed by removing the body as follows.
First hinge up the cab roof and disconnect the battery clip and aerial wire.
Next, remove two fixing screws under the front corners of the footplate.
Then, remove the two screws under the rear of the footplate.
Finally, slacken off a couple of turns but do not remove, the two screws
just above and to the front of the cylinders (one each side).
The body can now be lifted up to remove, manoeuvring slightly to pass
round the lubricator drain screw.
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IDENTIFICATION OF PARTS OF THE LOCOMOTIVE
Radio controlled version illustrated
1) Plastic battery holder. 2) Brass battery box. 3) Battery connector.
4) Reversing servo (this is replaced by a reversing lever on manual models).
5) Safety valve. 6) Boiler filler plug. 7) Gas filler valve. 8) R/C switch.
9) R/C receiver. 10) Gas tank. 11) Gas regulator. 12) Gas burner.
13) Steam regulator servo and linkage (not fitted on manual models).
14) Lubricator drain screw. 15) Lubricator filler cap. 16) Pressure gauge.

PREPARING FOR OPERATION
The locomotive must be serviced before being operated. It is
important to perform all the following operations.
1). FILLING THE GAS TANK
The filling of the gas tank should only be carried out in a well-
ventilated area, where there are no naked lights or other
lighted locomotives close by. Ordinary Butane or Iso-butane
gas (as used in gas cigarette lighters) is the preferred fuel,
though for economy, the larger canisters as used for
blowlamps or camping stoves etc. are better. The larger
canisters have an EN417 threaded self sealing valve on top
and require a special adapter to couple up to the filler valve on
the locomotive. A special brass gas filler adapter is obtainable
from your local garden railway supplier or direct from
ROUNDHOUSE.
Mixed gasses are also available and may be used if ordinary
butane or iso-butane are not available, but see ‘Gas System’
in the ‘Trouble Shooting & Maintenance’ section for more
information on this subject.
Before attempting to fill the gas tank, make sure that the gas
control valve is closed by turning it clockwise.
The filler valve for the gas tank is on top of the tank under the
cab roof. Invert the gas canister and place its nozzle over the
gas filler valve. Support the tank from underneath and press
the canister down. The gas will be heard hissing as it enters
the tank and a small amount will escape around the valve.
This is quite normal and is the tank venting as the liquid
enters. After about 20 to 30 seconds, liquid gas will emerge
from the valve showing that the tank is full. Remove the
canister immediately.
2). FILLING THE BOILER
A syringe and plastic pipe are supplied for filling of the boiler.
The boiler is filled with water through the filler plug under the
brass dome on top of the boiler. The brass dome is a
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substantial and heavy item, being turned from solid brass.
Care is needed when removing the dome, especially when the
engine is hot, as the dome itself will be hot. Take care not to
drop the dome onto the locomotive, as the weight of it may
damage the model. Lift off the dome then remove the plug by
unscrewing it with the knurled body. Fill the boiler right to the
top with clean water. Distilled water is recommended if
available. As an alternative to distilled water if this is
unavailable, clean tap water can be used in soft water areas.
Also, rain water or water from a dehumidifier can be used
provided that it is adequately filtered.
Do not use deionised water as this type of water may cause
long term damage to the boiler and fittings.
There has to be a space above the water to allow steam to be
raised so, insert the end of the plastic pipe into the boiler and
withdraw 30ml of water with the syringe. Replace the safety
valve finger tight.
3). LUBRICATION
Regular lubrication of all working parts is important and should
be carried out before each operating session. There are two
types of lubrication required: The external moving linkages
and bearings are lubricated with a medium oil such as motor
engine oil, and the internal steam mechanisms such as
cylinders, pistons and valves are lubricated with a special
steam oil that is mixed with the steam. Infrequent external
lubrication will allow parts to run dry, and over oiling can form
pools around operating parts that attract dirt and grit. If too
thin an oil is used it will evaporate very quickly as the loco
gets hot –leading to dry running. We recommend the use of a
20-50 motor oil for external lubrication.
Internal lubrication is achieved by steam oil that is mixed with
the steam in the displacement lubricator, housed in the left-
hand side of the cab. Remove the knurled cap from the top
and slacken the drain screw two or three turns at the bottom
but do not remove it. Any water in the lubricator will run out
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through the drain screw. Tighten the drain screw and refill with
the steam oil supplied, then replace the cap. Take time filling
the lubricator, especially when cold, as the oil takes time to
run down and may trap an air bubble. Both cap and drain
screw are fitted with ‘0’ rings and need only be closed finger
tight.
NOTE: Only special steam oil as supplied should be used in
the lubricator and under no circumstances should ordinary oil
be substituted, or damage may result. The gas and steam
regulators will require periodic lubrication. See the
troubleshooting section for details.
4). LIGHTING THE BURNER
WARNING: Before lighting read the section on gas system
troubleshooting and be aware of potential problems. If the gas
system is not operating correctly, shut it off immediately or
damage may result.
Move the locomotive to another location before lighting.
Butane is heavier than air and small pockets of gas can
collect around the locomotive during filling.
To light the burner, hold a lighted match or cigarette lighter
over the top of the chimney and slowly open the gas
regulator by turning it anti-clockwise. The gas should ignite
almost immediately with a pop as the flame travels down the
chimney and into the boiler tube. The burner should be
audible but not too loud.
NOTE as stated above, the gas regulator should be opened
slowly until the burner ignites. If opened too quickly,
particularly when the engine is cold or if the gas tank has just
been filled, it is possible that the flame may not travel back
into the boiler flue but stay in the smokebox. If this should
happen, the burner will sound quite different to normal and the
blue flame will be visible in the smokebox if viewed down the
chimney from a safe height. Should this happen, turn off the
gas immediately or damage may result and then re-light it. If
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the problem persists and it is not possible to ignite the burner
correctly, then a dirty jet should be suspected and cleaned as
detailed on in the Gas System Troubleshooting section.
For the first couple of minutes keep the burner on low. This is
important, as until it warms up, the flame will be a little
unstable and turning it up too much could cause it to go out.
Also, with a completely full tank, liquid gas could be drawn off
instead of vaporized gas, which can also extinguish the flame.
After a couple of minutes, the gas control valve can be
opened more to speed up steam raising. Open the gas
regulator slowly to about one full turn. The full range of
adjustment (closed to fully open) is achieved within the first
full rotation of the gas regulator knob - any more is
unnecessary.
RUNNING THE LOCOMOTIVE
When full working pressure has been reached (between 35
and 40psi), the safety valve will start to blow off steam. Steam
generation can be controlled by the gas valve in the cab. If the
safety valve blows off frequently during running, then too
much steam is being produced, which wastes water and gas.
Turning down the burner will decrease the amount of steam
created. Conversely, if steam pressure is not maintained
during a run, then the burner should be turned up. After a few
minutes of running it may be noticed that the gas pressure
through the burner has increased. This is due to the gas tank
becoming warmer and so increasing the gas pressure. Simply
turn the gas down –this may need to be performed several
times during a run. The art of balancing steam generation to
the operational requirement by the adjustment of the gas
control valve will quickly be learned.
The gas tank has a duration of about 25 minutes, though this
will vary a little depending on gas valve setting. The boiler
should not be allowed to run dry, and the gas tank capacity is
such that the gas should run out before the water. When the
gas is fully used up, the steam pressure in the boiler will be
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seen to gradually drop until the loco comes to a halt. Should
the water expire before the gas is fully used, the pressure will
drop rapidly and the loco will stop. Check the pressure gauge
–if this is zero turn off the gas. No damage will result if the
gas is turned off immediately.
DRIVING THE LOCOMOTIVE MANUALLY
On manually controlled locomotives, there are three main
controls, all of which are housed in the cab.
1) The gas regulator, which should be used to control steam
generation as described earlier.
2) The reversing lever. This is in the left-hand side of the cab
and is moved fully forward for running in a forward direction
and full back to run in the reverse direction. It should be
parked in the centre (mid gear) when the locomotive is
stationary for any length of time. When in mid gear position,
the valve gear is effectively in neutral and the engine will not
move under steam power.
3) The regulator. This is the main steam control valve and
regulates the speed at which the engine will run. The regulator
handle is situated in the right hand cab doorway and is moved
anti-clockwise to open and clockwise to close.
Using the reversing lever, select the desired direction of travel
and open the regulator a little. Initially, there will be a certain
amount of water in the pipes and cylinders, which will exhaust
through the chimney and, after a few moments, the engine will
move jerkily, until this clears. Once the parts have warmed up,
the engine will move off steadily and its speed can be
controlled with the regulator. Subsequent starts will be quite
smooth once the cylinders etc. have reached their normal
operating temperature.
To reverse the locomotive, close the regulator to bring it to a
halt, move the reversing lever over and open the regulator
again.
The art of fine control will soon be learnt with a little practice.
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DRIVING BY RADIO CONTROL
This model is fitted with 2.4 GHz R/C equipment. On a Radio
Controlled model, speed and direction are controlled by the
transmitter. First, turn on the transmitter and then switch on
the receiver on the locomotive with the switch on the
underside of the right hand side tank. The left hand stick on
the transmitter controls the steam regulator, down for stop up
for go. Moving to the left or right has no function.
The right hand stick operates the reverser, left for forward and
right for reverse. This stick is sprung loaded to return to its
central position. Moving up or down has no function
Using the transmitter, select the desired direction of travel and
then slowly open the regulator. The locomotive will now move
off as described in the manual control section.
For more information on using the radio control equipment,
see the manufacturer’s instruction booklet supplied with the
Radio Control Set.
The art of fine control will soon be learnt with a little practice.
NOTE:
Always ensure that the valve gear is set fully in gear for the
required direction when the engine is moving. The model is
fitted with a simplified Walschaerts type valve gear which is
not suitable for 'notching up' (altering the cut off).
Always bring the locomotive to a halt by closing the regulator
before changing direction.
If an emergency stop is required, simply release the reversing
lever, which will spring back into mid gear and halt the train.
Then close the regulator.
Always ensure that the regulator is closed before switching off
the transmitter.
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Always switch off the receiver and transmitter when not in use
to preserve battery life.
It is good practice to switch on the transmitter before the
receiver and switch off the receiver before the transmitter. In
this way, the radio receiver is never on when the transmitter is
switched off and so should always be under your control.
When the batteries are getting low, a poor signal between
transmitter and receiver will result and control of the engine
will become erratic. Refer to the instructions supplied with the
radio control equipment. The receiver batteries are housed
under the cab roof as described earlier.
STORAGE BETWEEN OPERATING SESSIONS
At the end of an operating session, it is good practice to clean
the locomotive carefully with a clean soft cloth, and to oil all
bright metal parts.
 Do not leave fuel or water in the tank or boiler for long
periods.
 Do not store in places where the temperature may drop
below freezing as water may still be present in the
pipework.
 Ensure all controls are closed and the valve gear in mid
gear.
 Ensure that radio control equipment is switched off and, if
the engine is not to be used for some time, remove all
batteries.
Periodically it may be necessary to wash off all traces of dirt
and old oil from the moving parts with paraffin (not thinners).
This will remove any accumulations of dirt or grit. After
washing with paraffin, leave to dry thoroughly overnight before
re-oiling. It is most important that clean oil is applied and
allowed to penetrate fully into all moving parts before the
locomotive is run again. Manually moving the locomotive back
and forth will assist in distributing the oil fully. Under normal
operating conditions this procedure should not be required
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more than once or twice per year.
ALTERING WHEEL GAUGE
The wheels are set at the factory for the specified gauge
however, for those who wish to alter this to run on other
people’s railways or if you change the gauge of your track,
they are easily reset using a gauge conversion kit - available
separately.
The driving wheels are moveable on their axles and are
locked in place by a small grub screw. They should be
adjusted so that the "back to back" gauge supplied in the kit
will just slip between their inner faces. Ensure that the wheels
are evenly spaced relative to each side frame.
Do not over tighten the grub screws particularly on insulated
wheels. New pony trucks of the appropriate gauge are
supplied in a gauge conversion kit; these are held in place by
a hexagon headed pivot screw and spring.
TROUBLE SHOOTING & MAINTENANCE
On a working model of this nature, it is important to keep all
working parts well lubricated.
With constant heating up, cooling down and the stresses of
hard work, screws etc. can work loose so, it is good practice
to check all fixings and cylinder screws regularly, but
remember, never over tighten.
STEAM LEAKS
The cylinders are fitted with 'O' rings in the glands sealing
both piston and valve rods. These can be adjusted with a
spanner if steam leaks develop. They should only be
tightened just enough to stop the leak, as over tightening will
affect the running of the model. Cylinder covers are fitted with
gaskets and valve chests with ’O’ rings. A little ‘bubbling’ of oil
may sometimes occur around these and is quite normal;
however, steam leaking past the gasket should be attended
to. If ‘nipping up’ retaining screws does not stop a steam leak,
a service kit is available which includes replacement gaskets
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and seals and full instructions for fitting. Valve chest screws
on top of the cylinders are accessed by removal of the dummy
cylinder cover which simply clips round the cylinder. Spring it
gently out from the bottom and lift off the valve chest at the
top.
REGULATOR NOT SHUTTING (R/C models)
The steam regulator seating and seal can, after a period of
time become worn or compressed so that when the lever on
the radio control is fully closed, the locomotive still moves. To
overcome this, a trimmer is fitted to the transmitter. This is the
small lever at the side of the main control lever and is set at
the factory to the top of its slot. As wear takes place in the
regulator, it can slowly be moved down the slot to
compensate. When it reaches the bottom, it is time to reset it
to the top and adjust the linkage between the servo and the
regulator in the cab. If adjustment does not cure this problem,
the internal '0' ring may be damaged and requires
replacement. Contact the factory for further advice. Periodic
oiling of the gland will help keep the regulator working freely.
Place a spot of motor oil between the gland nut and the
regulator arm and work the regulator a few times.
RADIO CONTROL
If the radio control gives problems, always check the batteries
first and replace if in doubt. AAA size batteries are used in the
locomotive and AA batteries in the transmitter. To gain access
to the batteries in the locomotive, first lift open the roof which
hinges on the left hand side of the cab. At the front underside
of the roof, unclip the battery connector from the plastic
battery holder. The plastic battery holder can then be removed
by sliding out through the back of the brass battery box.
GAS SYSTEM
Russell locomotives are fitted with our 'FG' type gas burner,
which is set up and fully tested at the factory.
This system is designed for use with Butane or Iso-Butane
gas. Mixed gasses, i.e. Butane with a proportion of Propane
14

mixed in, are available, and may be used if straight Butane is
unavailable. These come in a variety of mixes ranging from
90/10 to 60/40 with one of the most common being 70/30. The
figures refer to the proportions of the mix i.e. 70/30 contains
70% butane and 30% propane. If using mixed gasses, always
choose the one with the largest proportion of butane. The
addition of propane slightly alters the gasses properties. This
can make the burner a little more difficult to light when cold or
after filling the gas tank. Always open the regulator very slowly
when lighting, and only just sufficient for ignition to take place.
Opening too much too soon may extinguish the flame until the
burner reaches normal operating temperature.
The tiny jet in these units can become blocked by small
particles of dirt making the burner difficult to light, burn weakly
at normal operating temperatures*, burn in the smokebox or
fail completely. If any of these should happen, clean out the
jet as follows. (* On very cold days, a burner may start off
burning weakly due to the temperature of the gas but should
increase to its normal level as the engine warms up. This is
quite normal). Carefully, disconnect the gas pipe from the gas
jet holder using a 2BA spanner.
Note when connecting or disconnecting the gas pipe and jet
block, do not use excessive force. Always hold the end of the
gas burner near the air holes to support it otherwise it is
possible to cause damage by bending the body.
Slacken the screw retaining the gas jet holder and slide it out
to the rear. Remove the jet from the gas jet holder using a
4BA spanner. Wash out the jet in fast evaporating thinner
(Cellulose or similar). Blow through the jet from the front,
which should clear most blockages. Although the hole through
the jet is tiny, if you hold it up to the light you should be able to
see quite clearly if it is blocked or not. If in doubt, fit a new jet.
A spare gas jet is included with the toolkit. Do not use wire to
clean the jet as this can damage the precision hole and may
upset the delicate balance of the gas system. Reassemble in
the reverse order, putting a small amount of PTFE tape round
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the thread of the jet. Ensure all connections are tight. When re
-positioning the gas jet holder in the burner, ensure that it is
pushed in as far as it will go.
The gas regulator has a spindle 'O' ring housed inside the
body which may need lubrication from time to time if the
control becomes 'spongy' in operation, making precise gas
control difficult. As stated previously in the lighting
instructions, the full range of adjustment for normal burner
operation is achieved within the first full rotation of the
regulator knob, and it should only be unscrewed more than
this for maintenance purposes and when the tank is empty,
and there are no naked lights nearby.
To lubricate it, remove the knurled knob which is retained by a
M3 socket grub screw (M1.5 AF Allen key required) in the
side. Beneath the knob is a back-lash spring and white PTFE
washer which will slide off the spindle. Unscrew the hexagon
retaining nut then screw the spindle out of the body. The 'O'
ring can now be lubricated. Replace the spindle followed by
the retaining nut. Slide the white PTFE washer and backlash
spring over the spindle and replace the knob. Note - that the
grub screw that holds the knob in place tightens into a groove
near the end of the spindle.
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Gas Regulator (Internal Parts)
Regulator
Body
Regulator
Spindle
Knurled
Knob
Backlash
Spring
Hexagon
Retaining Nut
‘O’ ring to be
lubricated
White PTFE
Washer

17
St
ea
m
Ge
ner
ator
and
Description and specification of equipment covered
EC
ROUNDHO
USE
ENGINEE
RING CO.
LTD.
Units 6-9
Model: RUSSELL Ser
Signed
R. Loxley (director) Dated ………………..
Ves-
sel for
Group 1
gasses
and asso-
ciated
pipe work
and fit-
Model: Type ‘A’ gas tank Serial No.:
Test date:
Model: Type 1 boiler Serial No.:
Test date:

18
Please refer to the ‘owners handbook’ for your particular model of
locomotive, for details on correct use of these pressure vessels.
Pressure vessel care and maintenance
Gas tank
The gas tank is used for the storage of LPG (liquefied petroleum
gas) in the form of butane, iso-butane or as set out in the ‘owners
handbook’.
The tank is fitted with a self-venting filler valve which contains no
serviceable parts. Should the filler valve become defective in any
way, it must be replaced with a new item.
It is recommended that the gas tank should undergo the following
checks, carried out by a ‘competent person’, club, society or
pressure vessel manufacturer, every year:-
1/ thorough visual inspection.
And every five to ten years:-
1/ hydrostatic pressure test to not less than 1.5 and not more
than 2 times the maximum working pressure.
Boiler
The boiler is fitted with a safety valve to prevent the steam
pressure rising above the maximum allowable working pressure.
This is pre-set to open at between 2.38 bar (35 psi) and 2.72 bar
(40 psi) and must not be adjusted to increase this value.
If the safety valve becomes defective in any way, it should be
replaced or returned to the factory for service and calibration.
It is recommended that the boiler should undergo the following
checks, carried out by a ‘competent person’, club, society, or
pressure vessel manufacturer, every one to two years:-
1/ thorough visual inspection.
2/ hydrostatic pressure test to not less than 1.5 and not more
than 2 times the maximum working pressure.
3/ steam test to check the correct functioning of all steam
controls, gauge and safety valve.

Gas Burner
1). Superheater Pipe. 2). Lubricator Pipe.
3). Gas Jet Holder retaining screw. 4). Gas Jet.
5). Gas Jet Holder. 6). Gas Pipe.
7). Gas Burner fixing screw. 8). Air Inlet Holes.
19

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SERVICE AND PARTS
If any problems arise with this model which are not covered in
these operating instructions or spare parts are required, owners
should first contact their local dealer. Your ROUNDHOUSE dealer is;
If your dealer is unable to help, please contact the Factory directly:
ROUNDHOUSE ENGINEERING CO. LTD.
Units 6-10 Churchill Business Park. Churchill Road.
Wheatley. Doncaster. DN1 2TF. England
Telephone: [phone] Fax: [phone]
Email: [email protected]
www.roundhouse-eng.com
ONLINE