roundhouse Beddgelert 0-6-4 User guide

Beddgelert
Owners Handbook
For the Beddgelert 0-6-4 Locomotive

Operating Instructions
IMPORTANT: Read these instructions carefully before operating
the locomotive
The following items are required for running this engine and are not
included with the model.
Fuel Butane gas. See ’Gas System’ section.
Water See 'Filling the boiler' section.
General Lubricating oil See 'Lubrication' section.
SAFETY PRECAUTIONS
This is a working model locomotive using steam under pressure
and highly flammable fuel. Provided it is operated with reasonable
care and attention, no problems should arise.
It is intended for use out of doors and must only be operated in a
well-ventilated area.
Whilst the locomotive is in use, hot gasses are exhausted up the
chimney and excess steam frequently blows off through the safety
valve even when stationary, so operator and spectators should not
bend over the model.
As you will appreciate, this is not a toy and is therefore unsuitable
for young unsupervised children.
Follow manufacturer’s recommendations regarding the safe
storage of Butane gas canisters.
Some areas of the model will get quite hot whilst it is operating, so
a pair of gloves is provided in the tool kit for your protection.
Always have to hand either a fire extinguisher or wet cloth when
operating the model.
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3
Beddgelert
Instruction Manual
CONTENTS
Tool kit Page 4
Running in Page 4
Access to controls Page 4
Identification of parts of the locomotive Page 5
Preparing for operation Page 6
1. Filling the Gas Tank Page 6
2. Filling the Boiler Page 7
3. Lubrication Page 9
4. Lighting the Burner Page 10
Running the locomotive Page 11
Driving the Locomotive Manually Page 12
Batteries Page 13
Radio Control System Page 13
Water top-up system Page 15
Trouble shooting & maintenance Page 16
Storage between operating sessions Page 16
Steam leaks Page 17
Water top-up system Page 17
Regulator not shutting Page 17
Radio control Page 18
Gas system Page 18
Gas Jet Removal Page 19
Boiler and Gas Tank Certificate, Pages 21 & 22
(EC Declaration Of Conformity).

TOOL KIT
The following items are included with your locomotive.
One 60ml bottle of special steam oil for use in the lubricator.
One 60ml syringe with plastic tube for filling the boiler with water.
One water top up pump bottle.
One set of spare washers and ‘O’ rings.
One spare gas jet.
One gas Filling adapter
One pair of protective gloves.
One cleaning duster.
One Allen key for cylinder socket cap screws.
RUNNING IN
All locomotives are test run before leaving the factory, but when
new, will require several hours of running in to overcome initial
tightness and allow valves etc. to 'bed in' completely. Also, the loco
will waste a proportion of it's water and steam until 'run in' due to
leaking slide valves, a tendency to prime more, and simply
overcoming the initial tightness of the moving parts. As the model
heats up and cools down each time you raise steam, screws and
nuts have a tendency to stretch and loosen a little, which means
that you will need to make regular checks and 'nip up' any that
become loose. Most are quite visible and easy to get to. However,
if there is any steam leaking from the valve chests between the
frames, contact the factory for further information.
ACCESS TO THE CONTROLS
For normal operation, all main controls are accessible without the
need to remove any part of the locomotive; however, for ease of
servicing, the cab roof can be removed by sliding backwards, and
then lifting off.
The gas regulator is located in the right hand side of the cab
doorway, and is accessible without removing the roof.
The displacement lubricator is positioned inside the cab, at the
front left hand side. The lubricator drain screw is positioned
underneath the cab floor on the left side.
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5
IDENTIFICATION OF LOCOMOTIVE MAIN CONTROLS
Displacement
Lubricator
Filler Cap
Gas
Filler
Valve
Water
top up
valve
Gas
Regulator
Pressure
Gauge
Water
Gauge
Left Side
Right Side
Steam
Regulator
Displacement
Lubricator
Drain Screw
Gas Jet
Holder
Union
Nut
Battery Holder
for ‘AAA’
Batteries

The gas filler valve and gas tank are situated in the rear bunker,
underneath a dummy coal load. There is a hole in the Dummy coal
load to allow access to the Gas Filler Valve. Please note that the
coal load is fixed in position and cannot be removed.
The switch for the locomotive R/C equipment is on the left hand
side, underneath the cab floor, at the rear of the locomotive.
The radio control equipment fitted to the locomotive is powered by
4 x AAA batteries. The battery box is accessed by removing the
roof by sliding it to the rear, and then lifting off.
PREPARING FOR OPERATION
The locomotive must be serviced before being operated. It is
important to perform all the following operations.
NOTE, check that the batteries in both the R/C transmitter and the
locomotive are in good condition before attempting to operate the
model - see the Radio Control section later on.
1) FILLING THE GAS TANK
The filling of the gas tank should only be carried out in a well-
ventilated area, where there are no naked lights or other lighted
locomotives close by. Ordinary Butane or Iso-butane gas (as used
in gas cigarette lighters) is the preferred fuel, though for economy,
the larger canisters as used for blowlamps or camping stoves etc.
are better. The larger canisters have an EN417 threaded self
sealing valve on top and require a special adapter to couple up to
the filler valve on the locomotive. A Gas Filler Adapter is obtainable
from your local garden railway supplier or direct from
ROUNDHOUSE. Mixed gasses are also available and may be
used if ordinary butane or iso-butane are not available, but see the
‘Gas System’ section for more information on this subject.
Before attempting to fill the gas tank, make sure that the gas
control valve is closed by turning it clockwise and that there are no
other operating locomotives or naked flames nearby.
The filler valve for the gas tank is in the rear bunker and is
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accessed through a hole in the dummy coal load. Ensure that the
gas canister is fitted with a correct adapter, then invert it and place
its nozzle over the gas filler valve. Support the locomotive from
underneath in the area of the tank, and press the canister down.
The gas will be heard hissing as it enters the tank and a small
amount will escape around the valve. This is quite normal and is
the tank venting as the liquid enters. After about 20 to 30 seconds
liquid gas will emerge from the valve showing that the tank is full.
Remove the canister immediately. Filling times will vary depending
on the temperature of the locomotive and are for guidance only.
2) FILLING THE BOILER
There are two methods of filling the boiler
1/ Quick filling when cold.
The Brass Dome in the centre of the saddle tank can be lifted off
to allow access to the safety valve. This can simply be unscrewed
and the boiler filled using the syringe and tube provided.
These dome is substantial and heavy item, being machined from
solid brass. Take care not to drop it onto the locomotive, as the
weight of it may damage the model. Care is especially needed if
the locomotive is, or has been in steam, as the dome will be hot
and will retain its heat for a considerable time.
Remove the safety valve and using the 60 ml syringe and plastic
tube supplied, fill the boiler right to the top with clean water.
Distilled water is recommended if available. As an alternative to
distilled water if this is unavailable, clean tap water can be used in
soft water areas. Also, rain water or water from a dehumidifier can
be used provided that it is adequately filtered. Many people now
use rain water passed through a coffee or wine making filter to
remove any particles or debris in the water.
Do not use deionised water as this may cause long term damage to
the boiler and fittings.
There has to be a space above the water to allow steam to be
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raised so, insert the end of the plastic pipe into the boiler and
withdraw 30 ml of water with the syringe. Replace the filler plug
finger tight, and then place the dome back over it. Note that there is
a rubber ‘O’ ring around the body of each filler plug. This is to retain
the domes during normal operation.
2/ Pump bottle when hot or cold.
In the Right Hand side of the cab is a top-up-valve. Fill the plastic
pump bottle with clean water and push the end of the plastic tube
into the socket in the top up valve.
The socket has a slight taper in it, and a little downward pressure
on the tube will ensure a good seal.
Pump the handle on the bottle to inject water into the boiler whilst
maintaining this downward pressure. Keep pumping until the water
level in the water gauge is almost at the top of the glass.
Remove the plastic tube. Note that a small amount of water will
remain in the top of the valve but will evaporate away as the valve
heats up. Replace the roof.
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Safety Valve located under Dome.
Remove
Dome to
access Safety
Valve

9
3) LUBRICATION
Regular lubrication of all working parts is important and should be
carried out before each operating session. There are two types of
lubrication required: The external moving linkages and bearings are
lubricated with a medium oil such as motor engine oil, and the
internal steam mechanisms such as cylinders, pistons and valves
are lubricated with a special steam oil that is mixed with the steam.
Infrequent external lubrication will allow parts to run dry, and over
oiling can form pools around operating parts that attract dirt and
grit. If too thin an oil is used it will evaporate very quickly as the
loco gets hot –leading to dry running. We recommend the use of a
20-50 motor oil for external lubrication. When carrying out general
lubrication, do not forget the regulator spindles (see Trouble
Shooting section for further details of oiling the regulators).
Filling Boiler
with Pump
Bottle

Internal lubrication is achieved by steam oil that is mixed with the
steam in the displacement lubricator, housed in the front, left-hand
side of the cab. Unscrew and remove the knurled cap from the top
of the lubricator. Locate the knurled lubricator drain screw located
under the cab floor. Unscrew this two or three turns, but do not
remove it. Any water in the lubricator will run out through the hole in
the drain screw. When the water has finished draining, tighten the
drain screw and refill the lubricator from the top with the steam oil
supplied. Replace the cap. Take time filling the lubricator,
especially when cold, as the oil takes time to run down and may
trap an air bubble. Both cap and drain screw are fitted with ‘O’ rings
and need only be closed finger tight.
NOTE: Only special steam oil as supplied should be used in the
lubricator and under no circumstances should ordinary oil be
substituted, or damage may result.
4) LIGHTING THE BURNER
WARNING: Before lighting read the section on the gas system in
the Troubleshooting section later on and be aware of potential
problems. If the gas system is not operating correctly, shut it off
immediately or damage may result.
Move the locomotive to another location before lighting. Butane is
heavier than air and small pockets of gas can collect around the
locomotive during filling.
To light the burner, hold a lighted match or cigarette lighter over the
top of the chimney and slowly open the gas regulator by turning it
anti-clockwise. The gas should ignite almost immediately with a
pop as the flame travels down the chimney and into the boiler tube.
The burner should be audible but not too loud.
NOTE as stated above, the gas regulator should be opened slowly
until the burner ignites. If opened too quickly or too far, particularly
when the engine is cold or if the gas tank has just been filled, it is
possible that the flame may not ignite correctly, or may not travel
back into the boiler flue but stay in the smoke box. If this should
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happen, the burner will sound quite different to normal and the blue
flame will be visible in the smoke box if viewed down the chimney
from a safe height. Should this happen, turn off the gas
immediately or damage may result and then re-light it. If the
problem persists and it is not possible to ignite the burner correctly,
then a dirty jet should be suspected and cleaned as detailed in the
Troubleshooting section.
For the first couple of minutes keep the burner on low. This is
important, as until it warms up, the flame will be a little unstable
and turning it up too much could cause it to go out. Also, with a
completely full tank, liquid gas could be drawn off instead of
vaporized gas, which can also extinguish the flame.
After a couple of minutes, the gas control valve can be opened
more to speed up steam raising. Open the gas regulator slowly.
The full range of adjustment (closed to fully open) is achieved
within the first half to three quarters of a turn of the gas regulator
knob any more is unnecessary.
RUNNING THE LOCOMOTIVE
When full working pressure has been reached (between 35 and
40psi), the safety valve will start to blow off steam. Steam
generation can be controlled by the gas regulator valve in the right
hand cab doorway. If the safety valve blows off frequently during
running, then too much steam is being produced, which wastes
water and gas. Turning down the burner will decrease the amount
of steam created. Conversely, if steam pressure is not maintained
during a run, then the burner should be turned up.
After a few minutes of running it may be noticed that the gas
pressure through the burner has increased. This is due to the gas
tank becoming warmer and so increasing the gas pressure. Simply
turn the gas down –this may need to be performed several times
during a run. The art of balancing steam generation to the
operational requirement by the adjustment of the gas control valve
will quickly be learned.
The standard gas tank has a duration of about 25 minutes, though
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this will vary depending on the gas valve setting. The boiler should
not be allowed to run dry, and the gas tank capacity is such that the
gas should run out before the water but it is good practice to keep
an eye on the water gauge as a check. When the gas is fully used
up, the steam pressure in the boiler will be seen to gradually drop
until the loco comes to a halt.
Should the water expire before the gas is fully used, the pressure
will drop rapidly and the loco will stop. Check the pressure gauge
and water gauge –if there is no steam pressure or visible water,
turn off the gas. No damage will result if the gas is turned off
immediately and the engine left to cool. Never add cold water to a
hot, empty boiler in an attempt to cool it and never re-fill the gas
tank without first checking the water level in the boiler.
Ensure that the gas valve is completely turned off before refilling
the gas tank.
DRIVING THE LOCOMOTIVE MANUALLY
On manually controlled locomotives, there are three main controls,
all of which are housed in the cab.
1) The Gas Regulator. This is used to control steam generation as
described earlier.
2) The Reversing Lever. This is in the left-hand side of the cab and
is moved fully forward for running in a forward direction and fully
back to run in the reverse direction. It should be parked in the
centre (mid gear) when the locomotive is stationary for any length
of time. When in mid gear position, the valve gear is effectively in
neutral and the engine will not move under steam power.
3) The Steam Regulator. This is the main steam control valve and
regulates the speed of the locomotive. The regulator handle is
situated in the right hand cab doorway and is moved anti-clockwise
to open and clockwise to close.
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Using the reversing lever, select the desired direction of travel and
open the regulator a little. Initially, there will be a certain amount of
water in the pipes and cylinders, which will exhaust through the
chimney and, after a few moments, the engine will move jerkily,
until this clears. Once the parts have warmed up, the engine will
move off steadily and its speed can be controlled with the regulator.
Subsequent starts will be quite smooth once the cylinders etc. have
reached their normal operating temperature.
To reverse the locomotive, close the regulator to bring it to a halt,
move the reversing lever over and open the regulator again.
The art of fine control will soon be learnt with a little practice.
BATTERIES
Batteries must be fitted to the locomotive before it can be run. To
do this we need to remove the cab roof. The battery holder is
positioned just underneath the cab roof, and batteries can be fitted
without removing the battery holder. Refer to the instructions
supplied with the Radio Control equipment as to the correct
batteries required. Refit the roof.
RADIO CONTROL SYSTEM
This model is fitted with 2.4 GHz R/C equipment. On a Radio
Controlled model, speed and direction are controlled by the
transmitter. First, turn on the transmitter and then switch on the
receiver on the locomotive. The left hand stick on the transmitter
controls the steam regulator; down for stop and up for go. Moving
to the left or right has no function.
The right hand stick operates the valve gear. Move the stick fully to
the left for forward and fully to the right for reverse. This stick is
sprung loaded to return to its central position. Moving up or down
has no function
Using the transmitter, select the desired direction of travel and then
slowly open the regulator. The locomotive will now move off as
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described in the manual control section.
For more information on using the radio control equipment, see the
manufacturer’s instruction booklet supplied with the Radio Control
Set.
The art of fine control will soon be learnt with a little practice
NOTE: Ensure that the valve gear is fully in gear for the required
direction when the engine is moving. The model is fitted with a
simplified Walschaerts type valve gear which is not suitable for
'notching up' (altering the cut off).
Always bring the locomotive to a halt by closing the regulator
before changing direction. If an emergency stop is required, simply
release the reversing lever, which will spring back into mid gear
and halt the train. Then close the regulator. Always ensure that the
regulator is fully closed before switching off the radio control
equipment.
Always switch off the receiver and transmitter when not in use to
preserve battery life. It is good practice to switch on the transmitter
before the receiver and switch off the receiver before the
transmitter. In this way, the radio receiver is never on when the
transmitter is switched off and so should always be under your
control.
When the batteries are getting low, a poor signal between
transmitter and receiver will result and control of the engine will
become erratic. Refer to the instructions supplied with the radio
control equipment.
WATER TOP UP SYSTEM
A water top up system is fitted to this model. This enables the
water level in the boiler to be monitored and topped up to keep the
engine in steam for long periods.
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Once the locomotive is in operation as detailed in the previous
sections, water can be added to the boiler at any time during the
run as follows.
Fill the water pump bottle from your usual water supply.
Bring the locomotive to a halt in a convenient place and remove the
cab roof.
Push the end of the plastic tube down into the Water Top Up Valve,
located in the Right Hand side of the cab. Whilst still holding the
pipe in position and exerting slight downward pressure, pump the
handle and this will inject water into the boiler.
You will sometimes see water and air bubbles passing through the
sight glass as you pump so allow the level to settle after a few
pumps. Carefully pull the plastic pipe out of the Water Top Up
Valve whilst steadying the engine.
Sometimes, small particles of dirt will find their way in with the
water and may cause the water filling valve to leak back a little
when the pipe is removed. If this should happen, re-connect the
pipe and give a further pump or two of water to clear it.
A small amount of water may remain in the socket of the filler valve
once the plastic pipe has been removed and will boil off as the
fittings return to normal operating temperature. This is quite normal.
Once you start running your loco you will see the water level in the
gauge slowly dropping. Note that air bubbles may sometimes form
in the gauge giving a false reading but these can be pushed out by
connecting the pipe from the water pump to the water filling
connector and injecting some water.
It is better to pump small amounts of water into the boiler at
frequent intervals as this maintains a more even boiler pressure
and prevents long waits while the cold water heats up and pressure
returns to normal operating level.
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Aim to keep the water level between ½ and ¾ up the gauge and re-
fill the gas tank as detailed earlier whenever it is empty. In this way,
you can keep the loco in steam and at working pressure as long as
you like.
Don’t forget to re-fill the displacement lubricator about every 45
minutes.
TROUBLESHOOTING & MAINTENANCE
On a working model of this nature, it is important to keep all
working parts well lubricated as detailed in the lubrication section.
With constant heating up, cooling down and the stresses of hard
work, screws etc. can work loose so, it is good practice to check all
fixings and cylinder screws regularly, particularly when the model is
new but, remember - never over tighten.
STORAGE BETWEEN OPERATING SESSIONS
At the end of an operating session, it is good practice to clean the
locomotive carefully with a clean soft cloth, and to oil all bright
metal parts.
 Do not leave fuel or water in the tank or boiler for long
periods.
 Do not store in places where the temperature may drop below
freezing as water may still be present in the pipework.
 Ensure all controls are closed and the valve gear in mid gear.
 Ensure that radio control equipment is switched off.
 Remove batteries from the locomotive and the transmitter.
Periodically it may be necessary to wash off all traces of dirt and
old oil from the moving parts with paraffin (not thinners). This will
remove any accumulations of dirt or grit. After washing with
paraffin, leave to dry thoroughly overnight before re-oiling. It is
most important that clean oil is applied and allowed to penetrate
fully into all moving parts before the locomotive is run again.
Manually moving the locomotive back and forth will assist in
distributing the oil fully. Under normal operating conditions this
procedure should not be required more than once or twice per
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year.
STEAM LEAKS
The cylinders are fitted with 'O' rings in the glands sealing both
piston and valve rods. These can be adjusted if steam leaks
develop. They should only be tightened just enough to stop the
leak, as over tightening will affect the running of the model.
Cylinder covers are fitted with gaskets and valve chests with ’O’
rings. A little ‘bubbling’ of oil may sometimes occur around these
and is quite normal; however, steam leaking past the gasket should
be attended to.
If ‘nipping up’ the retaining screws does not stop a steam leak, a
service kit is available which includes replacement gaskets and
seals and full instructions for fitting.
WATER TOP-UP SYSTEM
Over a period of time the end of the plastic filling tube that pushes
in the boiler top-up valve will become a loose fit due to the heat of
the fitting. To cure this, simply cut approximately 6mm from the end
of the tube when necessary.
REGULATOR NOT SHUTTING (R/C models)
The steam regulator seating and seal can, after a period of time
become worn or compressed so that when the lever on the radio
control is fully closed, the locomotive still moves. To overcome this,
a trimmer is fitted to the transmitter. As wear takes place in the
regulator, it can gradually be adjusted to compensate. When no
more adjustment is possible, it is time to reset the trimmer and
adjust the linkage between the servo and the regulator in the cab. If
adjustment does not cure this problem, the internal '0' ring is
probably damaged and requires replacement. Contact the factory
for further advice.
Periodic oiling of the gland will help keep the regulator working
freely. Place a spot of motor oil between the gland nut and the
regulator arm and work the regulator a few times.
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RADIO CONTROL
If the radio control gives problems, always check the batteries first
and replace if in doubt.
For more information on using the radio control equipment, see the
manufacturer’s instruction booklet supplied with the Radio Control
Set.
GAS SYSTEM
Internally fired locomotives are fitted with our 'FG' type gas burner,
which is set up and fully tested at the factory.
This system is designed for use with Butane or Iso-Butane gas.
Mixed gasses, i.e. Butane with a proportion of Propane mixed in,
are available, and may be used if straight Butane is unavailable.
These come in a variety of mixes ranging from 90/10 to 60/40 with
one of the most common being 70/30. The figures refer to the
proportions of the mix i.e. 70/30 contains 70% butane and 30%
propane. If using mixed gasses, always choose the one with the
largest proportion of butane. The addition of propane slightly alters
the gasses properties. This can make the burner a little more
difficult to light when cold or after filling the gas tank. Always open
the regulator very slowly when lighting, and only just sufficient for
ignition to take place. Opening too much too soon may extinguish
the flame until the burner reaches normal operating temperature.
The tiny jet in these units can become blocked, or partially
occluded by small particles of dirt making the burner difficult to
light, burn weakly at normal operating temperatures*, burn in the
smokebox or fail completely. (* On very cold days, a burner may
start off burning weakly due to the temperature of the gas but
should increase to its normal level as the engine warms up. This is
quite normal).
If any of these should happen the Gas Jet will require cleaning or
replacing.
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GAS JET REMOVAL
To remove the gas jet, first remove the roof. Unscrew and remove
the plastic battery holder. . Using a 2BA spanner, unscrew the Gas
Jet Holder Union Nut. This connects the gas pipe to the gas
regulator - see the photograph on Page 5. Loosen the gas jet
holder retaining screw which will allow the gas jet holder to be
pulled backwards and out. The Gas Jet can now be removed from
the gas jet holder using a 4 BA spanner, and cleaned or replaced.
Note when connecting or disconnecting the gas pipe or gas jet
holder, do not use excessive force. Wash out the jet in fast
evaporating thinner (Cellulose or similar). Blow through the jet from
the front, which should clear most blockages. Although the hole
through the jet is tiny, if you hold it up to the light you should be
able to see quite clearly if it is blocked or not. If in doubt, fit a new
jet - a spare is included with the toolkit. Do not use wire to clean the
jet as this can damage the precision hole and may upset the
delicate balance of the gas system. Reassemble in the reverse
order, putting a small amount of PTFE tape round the thread of the
jet. Ensure all connections are tight. When re-positioning the gas
jet holder in the burner, ensure that it is pushed in as far as it will
go.
The gas regulator has a spindle ‘O’ ring housed inside the body
which may need lubrication from time to time if the control becomes
‘spongy’ in operation, making precise gas control difficult.
As stated in the lighting instructions earlier, the full range of
adjustment for normal burner operation is achieved within the first
full rotation of the regulator knob, and it should only be unscrewed
more than this for maintenance purposes and when the tank is
empty, and there are no naked lights nearby.
To lubricate it, remove the knurled knob which is retained by a M3
socket grub screw (M 1.5 AF Allen key required) in the side.
Beneath the knob is a back-lash spring which will slide off the
spindle.
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Unscrew the hexagon retaining nut then screw the spindle out of
the body.
The ‘O’ ring can now be lubricated.
Replace the spindle followed by the retaining nut. Slide the
backlash spring over the spindle and replace the knob. Note that
the grub screw that holds the knob in place tightens into a groove
near the end of the spindle.
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Gas Regulator (Internal Parts)
Regulator
Body
Back-Lash
Spring
Regulator
Spindle
White PTFE
Washer
Knurled
Knob
‘O’ ring to be
lubricated
Hexagon
Retaining
Nut