roundhouse Vale of Rheidol 2-6-2 User guide

Owners Handbook
For the Vale of Rheidol 2-6-2 tank
Locomotive
Vale of Rheidol 2-6-2

Operating Instructions
IMPORTANT: Read these instructions carefully before operating
the locomotive
The following items are required for running this engine and are not
included with the model.
Fuel Butane gas. See ’Gas System’ on page 21
Water See 'Filling the boiler' on page 9
General Lubricating oil See 'Lubrication' on page 10
SAFETY PRECAUTIONS
This is a working model locomotive using steam under pressure
and highly flammable fuel. Provided it is operated with reasonable
care and attention, no problems should arise.
It is intended for use out of doors and must only be operated in a
well-ventilated area.
Whilst the locomotive is in use, hot gasses are exhausted up the
chimney and excess steam frequently blows off through the safety
valve even when stationary, so operator and spectators should not
bend over the model.
As you will appreciate, this is not a toy and is therefore unsuitable
for young unsupervised children.
Follow manufacturer’s recommendations regarding the safe
storage of Butane gas canisters.
Some areas of the model will get quite hot whilst it is operating, so
a pair of gloves is provided in the tool kit for your protection.
Always have to hand either a fire extinguisher or wet cloth when
operating the model.
2

3
VoR Instruction Booklet
CONTENTS
Tool kit & Un-packing the model Page 4
Running in Page 6
Access to controls Page 6
Identification of parts of the locomotive Page 7
Preparing for operation Page 8
1. Filling the Gas Tank Page 8
2. Filling the Boiler Page 9
3. Lubrication Page 10
4. Lighting the Burner Page 11
Running the locomotive Page 12
Radio control system Page 13
Driving the locomotive Page 14
Water top-up system Page 16
Steam whistle Page 18
Trouble shooting & maintenance Page 18
Storage between operating sessions Page 19
Steam leaks Page 19
Regulator not shutting Page 21
Radio control Page 21
Gas system Page 22
Water top-up system Page 24
Boiler and Gas Tank Certificate, Pages 25 & 26
(EC Declaration Of Conformity).

TOOL KIT
The following items are included with your locomotive.
One 60ml bottle of special steam oil for use in the cylinder
lubricator.
One 60ml syringe with plastic tube for filling the boiler with water.
One water top up pump bottle. One gas filling adapter.
One set of spare washers and ‘O’ rings. One spare gas jet.
One Allen key for cylinder socket cap screws.
One set of etched brass name and number plates.
One set (4 items) of dummy fire irons and shovels.
One set (4 items) of dummy brake pipes
One pair of protective gloves. One cleaning duster.
UN-PACKING THE MODEL
To prevent damage during transit, certain items are removed and
packed separately. Carefully lift out the locomotive and fit the loose
items as follows using the photographs in this booklet for reference.
1) The dummy steam dome sits over the boiler filler plug/top-up
valve on top of the boiler and is a push fit over the ‘O’ ring
fitted round the outside of the filler plug. The dome also has a
separate polished brass plug that sits in the hole on top. This
is to give access to the water top-up valve during service.
2) The polished brass safety valve bonnet sits over the safety valve
just in front of the cab.
3)The two dummy coal loads sit in the coal bunkers in front of the
cab. They have cut-outs on their underside to sit over the lubricator
cap on the left hand side and the gas filler valve (if the large
capacity tank is fitted) on the right. If the small gas tank is fitted, the
filler valve is much lower in
the cab. Note that they are
handed and have a locating
boss on their underside, the
curved edge of which sits
against the curved side of the
dummy firebox top. The one
with the longer locating boss
fits in the left hand bunker,
over the lubricator.
4
Buffer beam fixing screws

4) A set of dummy brake pipes
are supplied and you will need
to decide which, if any, you
would like to fit. The fitment of
them to the prototype
locomotives varied over the
years and if you require your
model to represent a particular
locomotive or era, check which
pipes it carried. There are two
straight pipes and two with curved feed pipes. The curved ones go
on the left of the centre buffer and the straight ones on the right.
To fit them, you will need to remove the front and rear buffer
beams. These comprise of a steel buffer beam with etched brass
overlay and are fastened to the chassis by a pair of brass cheese
head screws and nuts. The brake pipes are lost wax brass castings
and are already painted red for you, but will require the hoses and,
for some versions, the upstand pipe, painting black. To fasten them
to the buffer beams, the lug at the bottom fits into a hole in the
bottom of the buffer beam and the threaded stud fits through the
hole with a nut on the inside. Once the brake pipes are fitted,
carefully replace the buffer beams with the original fixing screws.
5)The dummy fire irons and shovels can be painted as required
and were normally kept on the tank tops, just in front of the coal
bunkers. They can be glued in place if required and the use of an
epoxy adhesive such as ‘Devcon’ is recommended.
6) A set of etched brass name and number plates are supplied, and
these should be painted before fitting. The paint should be applied
to the background and left to dry fully. Once dry, snip the required
plates from the etch with a pair of sharp tin snips, and clean up the
edges with a fine file or wet and dry paper. Finally, lay a sheet of
fine wet and dry paper on a flat surface and lightly rub the front
face of the plate onto it. This will remove any traces of paint from
the raised lettering and edges. The shed code and smoke box
number plates, both of which fit on the smoke box door, have the
raised letter and numbers, painted white.
For fixing the plates to the locomotive, we recommend a light
5
5

smear of ‘Devcon’ or similar, epoxy adhesive and the plate should
be held in position with Sellotape until the adhesive has fully cured.
As the positioning of the plates on the locomotives varied over the
years, you should check with pictures or reference books for the
particular era you wish to depict. The loco’s were numbered as
follows.
No.7 Owain Glyndwr, No.8 Llewellyn and No.9 Prince of Wales.
RUNNING IN
All locomotives are test run before leaving the factory, but will
require several hours of running in, when new, to overcome initial
tightness and allow valves etc. to 'bed in' completely. It is
recommended that the model is run with light loads for the first few
hours of operation. Also, the loco will waste a proportion of it's
water and steam until 'run in' due to leaking slide valves, a
tendency to prime more, and simply overcoming the initial tightness
of the moving parts. As the model heats up and cools down each
time you raise steam, screws and nuts have a tendency to stretch
and loosen a little so you will also need to make regular checks and
'nip up' any that become loose. Most are quite visible and easy to
get to however if there is any steam leaking from the valve chests
on top of the cylinders, refer to the Trouble Shooting section.
ACCESS TO THE CONTROLS
For normal operation, all main controls are accessible without the
need to remove any part of the locomotive, however, for ease of
servicing, the cab roof hinges up. Lift the front of the roof vertically,
then it will hinge forward, over to the front of the cab.
The gas regulator is located in the right hand side of the cab.
The displacement lubricator is positioned in the left hand coal
bunker under the dummy coal load.
The gas filler valve is situated in the right hand coal bunker under
the dummy coal load.
The switch for the locomotive R/C equipment is on the underside of
the right hand side tank, just in front of the bunker.
6

7
IDENTIFICATION OF PARTS OF THE LOCOMOTIVE
7

PREPARING FOR OPERATION
The locomotive must be serviced before being operated. It is
important to perform all the following operations.
NOTE, check that the batteries in both the R/C transmitter and the
locomotive are in good condition before attempting to operate the
model - see the Radio Control section later on.
1) FILLING THE GAS TANK
The filling of the gas tank should only be carried out in a well-
ventilated area, where there are no naked lights or other lighted
locomotives close by. Ordinary Butane or Iso-butane gas (as used
in gas cigarette lighters) is the preferred fuel, though for economy,
the larger canisters as used for blowlamps or camping stoves etc.
are better. The larger canisters have an EN417 threaded self
sealing valve on top and require a special adapter to couple up to
the filler valve on the locomotive and one is supplied in your tool kit.
Mixed gasses are also available and may be used if ordinary
butane or iso-butane are not available, but see the ‘Gas System’
section for more information on this subject.
Before attempting to fill the gas tank, make sure that the gas
control valve is closed by turning it clockwise and that there are no
other operating locomotives or naked flames nearby.
The filler valve for the gas tank is the coal bunker on the right hand
side and is accessed by lifting out the dummy coal load. Ensure
that the gas canister is fitted with a correct adaptor then invert it
and place its nozzle over the gas filler valve. Support the
locomotive from underneath in the area of the tank, and press the
canister down. The gas will be heard hissing as it enters the tank
and a small amount will escape around the valve. This is quite
normal and is the tank venting as the liquid enters. After about 20
to 30 seconds on the small tank and 40 to 50 seconds on the large
tank, liquid gas will emerge from the valve showing that the tank is
full. Remove the canister immediately. Filling times will vary
depending on the temperature of the locomotive and are for
guidance only.
8

2) FILLING THE BOILER
There are two methods of filling the boiler
1/ Quick filling when cold.
The dummy steam dome on top of the boiler can be lifted
completely off to access the filler plug.
The dome is a substantial and heavy item, being machined from
solid brass. Take care not to drop it onto the locomotive, as the
weight of it may damage the model. There is also a separate,
removable plug in the top of the dome which is used when
operating the top up system. Take care not to lose it.
Remove the filler plug/filler valve assembly by unscrewing it with
the large knurled body. Using the 60 ml syringe and plastic tube
supplied, fill the boiler right to the top with clean water. Distilled
water is recommended if available. As an alternative to distilled
water if this is unavailable, clean tap water can be used in soft
water areas. Also, rain water or water from a dehumidifier can be
used provided that it is adequately filtered. Many people now use
rain water passed through a coffee or wine making filter to remove
any particles or debris in the water.
Do not use deionised water as this may cause long term damage to
the boiler and fittings.
There has to be a space above the water to allow steam to be
raised so, insert the end of the plastic pipe into the boiler and
withdraw 30 ml of water with the syringe. Replace the filler plug
finger tight then place the dummy steam dome over it. Note that
there is a rubber ‘O’ ring around the body of the filler plug. This is to
retain the dome during normal operation.
2/ Pump bottle when hot or cold.
Lift out the brass plug in the top of the steam dome, to give access
to the top up valve. Fill the plastic pump bottle with clean water and
pass the end of the plastic tube down through the hole in the dome
and into the socket in the top of the top up valve. The socket has a
slight taper in it, and a little downward pressure on the tube will
ensure a good seal.
9
9

Pump the handle on the bottle to inject water into the boiler whilst
maintaining this downward pressure. Keep pumping until the water
level in the water gauge is almost at the top of the glass.
Remove the plastic tube and replace the brass plug in the top of
the dome. Note that a small amount of water will remain in the top
of the valve but will evaporate away as the valve heats up.
3) LUBRICATION
Regular lubrication of all working parts is important and should be
carried out before each operating session. There are two types of
lubrication required: The external moving linkages and bearings are
lubricated with a medium oil such as motor engine oil, and the
internal steam mechanisms such as cylinders, pistons and valves
are lubricated with a special steam oil that is mixed with the steam.
Infrequent external lubrication will allow parts to run dry, and over
oiling can form pools around operating parts that attract dirt and
grit. If too thin an oil is used it will evaporate very quickly as the
loco gets hot –leading to dry running. We recommend the use of a
20-50 motor oil for external lubrication. When carrying out general
lubrication, do not forget the regulator spindles (see Trouble
Shooting section for further details of oiling the regulators).
Internal lubrication is achieved by steam oil that is mixed with the
steam in the displacement lubricator, housed in the left-hand side
bunker. Lift out the dummy coal load and remove the knurled cap
from the top. Slacken the knurled drain screw, located on the
bottom of the lubricator beneath the foot plate, two or three turns
but do not remove it. Any water in the lubricator will run out through
the drain screw. Tighten the drain screw and refill with the steam oil
supplied, then replace the cap and finally, the dummy coal load.
Take time filling the lubricator, especially when cold, as the oil
takes time to run down and may trap an air bubble. Both cap and
drain screw are fitted with ‘O’ rings and need only be closed finger
tight.
NOTE: Only special steam oil as supplied should be used in the
lubricator and under no circumstances should ordinary oil be
substituted, or damage may result.
10

4) LIGHTING THE BURNER
WARNING: Before lighting read the section on the gas system
under Troubleshooting later on and be aware of potential problems.
If the gas system is not operating correctly, shut it off
immediately or damage may result.
Move the locomotive to another location before lighting. Butane is
heavier than air and small pockets of gas can collect around the
locomotive during filling.
To light the burner, hold a lighted match or cigarette lighter over the
top of the chimney and slowly open the gas regulator by turning it
anti-clockwise. The gas should ignite almost immediately with a
pop as the flame travels down the chimney and into the boiler tube.
The burner should be audible but not too loud.
NOTE as stated above, the gas regulator should be opened slowly
until the burner ignites. If opened too quickly or too far, particularly
when the engine is cold or if the gas tank has just been filled, it is
possible that the flame may not ignite correctly, or may not travel
back into the boiler flue but stay in the smoke box. If this should
happen, the burner will sound quite different to normal and the blue
flame will be visible in the smoke box if viewed down the chimney
from a safe height. Should this happen, turn off the gas
immediately or damage may result and then re-light it. If the
problem persists and it is not possible to ignite the burner correctly,
then a dirty jet should be suspected and cleaned as detailed in the
Troubleshooting section.
For the first couple of minutes keep the burner on low. This is
important, as until it warms up, the flame will be a little unstable
and turning it up too much could cause it to go out. Also, with a
completely full tank, liquid gas could be drawn off instead of
vaporized gas, which can also extinguish the flame.
After a couple of minutes, the gas control valve can be opened
more to speed up steam raising. Open the gas regulator slowly.
The full range of adjustment (closed to fully open) is achieved
within the first half to three quarters of a turn of the gas regulator
knob any more is unnecessary.
11
11

RUNNING THE LOCOMOTIVE
When full working pressure has been reached (between 35 and
40psi), the safety valve will start to blow off steam. Steam
generation can be controlled by the gas valve in the right hand cab
doorway.
If the safety valve blows off frequently during running, then too
much steam is being produced, which wastes water and gas.
Turning down the burner will decrease the amount of steam
created. Conversely, if steam pressure is not maintained during a
run, then the burner should be turned up.
After a few minutes of running it may be noticed that the gas
pressure through the burner has increased. This is due to the gas
tank becoming warmer and so increasing the gas pressure. Simply
turn the gas down –this may need to be performed several times
during a run.
The art of balancing steam generation to the operational
requirement by the adjustment of the gas control valve will quickly
be learned.
The standard gas tank has a duration of about 25 minutes, though
this will vary depending on the gas valve setting. The boiler should
not be allowed to run dry, and the gas tank capacity is such that the
gas should run out before the water but it is good practice to keep
an eye on the water gauge as a check.
When the gas is fully used up, the steam pressure in the boiler will
be seen to gradually drop until the loco comes to a halt. Should the
water expire before the gas is fully used, the pressure will drop
rapidly and the loco will stop.
Check the pressure gauge and water gauge –if there is no steam
pressure or visible water, turn off the gas. No damage will result if
the gas is turned off immediately and the engine left to cool. Never
add cold water to a hot, empty boiler in an attempt to cool it and
never re-fill the gas tank without first checking the water level in the
boiler. Ensure that the gas valve is completely turned off before
refilling the gas tank.
12

RADIO CONTROL SYSTEM
The locomotive is operated by a four channel radio control system.
There are two main control levers on the radio transmitter, each of
which is bi-directional and controls two functions.
Speed and direction are controlled by the left hand lever. Left to
right for forward or reverse (mid gear in the centre position) and up
and down for regulator open or close.
The right hand lever operates the steam whistle and drain cocks if
fitted. Left to right for drain cocks open or closed (both drain cocks
and chimney exhaust together in the centre position) and up and
down for whistle valve open or close. Each control lever has two
smaller trimmer levers, three of which (items 3, 4 and 6 in the
illustration) should not be altered though the steam regulator
trimmer (item 1), may require adjustment as referred to in a later
chapter.
For more information on using the Radio Control equipment, see
the manufacturer’s instruction booklet supplied with the Radio
Control Set.
INSERTINGTHE BATTERIES
Batteries must be fitted to the locomotive before it can be run. To
do this we need to remove the Left-Hand Side Tank. It is held in
position by a single screw (the Side Tank Retaining Screw) which
is located under the front
footplate in front of the
cylinder.
U s i n g a s m a l l
screwdriver, carefully
remove this screw and
place it safe. There is a
weight in the front of the
side tank that you need to
be aware of before
removing the side tank.
Gently lift the side tank
13
13

up at the front and
then ease it
forward, taking
care to hold onto
the weight that is
located in the front
of the side tank.
Batteries can now
be fitted into the
battery holder.
The side tank can
now be replaced.
Hold the side tank
as shown in the
picture above. First, locate the tab at the upper rear of the side
tank into its corresponding slot.
You will then be
able to gently sit
the side tank
down onto the
three top slots
and then into
the remaining
rear, bottom
slot. Finally,
replace the Side
Tank Retaining
Screw.
D R I V I N G T H E
LOCOMOTIVE
First, turn on the
transmitter and then
switch on the
receiver on the
locomotive with the
switch under the
right hand side tank.
Open the drain cocks
14

if fitted, by moving the right hand control lever fully over to the left.
This will direct all exhaust out of the two pipes, facing forward,
below the cylinders
Select the desired direction of travel by moving the left hand lever
fully over to either the left for forward or the right for reverse, and
then slowly open the regulator a little by moving the left hand lever
upwards. The locomotive will now move slowly off and the speed
can be controlled by moving the lever slowly up or down. The
regulator is quite sensitive and should be used with care.
When the cylinders are cold, there will be a certain amount of water
in the steam pipes and cylinders that will cause the locomotive to
be a little jerky on initial movement. This is condensed steam and is
a condition commonly known as priming and is quite normal. After
a few moments, this will clear from the system as the cylinders
quickly warm up and running will become smooth. The drain cocks
can now be closed and the exhaust will exit from the chimney.
If drain cocks are not fitted, the condensate will exhaust inside the
chimney and drop down between the rails from a vent hole in the
base of the smoke box.
During the run, there will always be a small amount of condensate
and oil dropping down through this vent hole whether drain cocks
are fitted or not. Some of this will fall onto the hot super-heater
inside the smoke box and can be heard as occasional spitting and
popping and is quite normal.
The art of fine control will soon be learnt with a little practice.
The drain cocks, if fitted, can be opened and closed at any time,
but it is good practice to open them before moving off, whenever
the locomotive has been stationary for any length of time. With the
right hand lever in the mid position, steam will exhaust from both
the drain cock pipes beneath the cylinders and up the chimney at
the same time.
NOTE: Always keep the reversing lever fully over in the required
direction when the engine is moving. The model is fitted with a
15
15

simple reversing valve gear and is not capable for 'notching
up' (altering the valve cut off).
Always bring the locomotive to a halt by closing the regulator
before changing direction.
Always ensure that the regulator is closed and the reversing lever
is in the middle position (mid gear) before switching off the
transmitter.
Always switch off the receiver and transmitter when not in use to
preserve battery life.
It is good practice to switch on the transmitter before the receiver
and switch off the receiver before the transmitter. In this way, the
radio receiver is never on when the transmitter is switched off and
so should always be under your control.
When the batteries are getting low, a poor signal between
transmitter and receiver will result and control of the engine will
become erratic. The batteries should be replaced immediately.
WATER TOP UP SYSTEM
A water top up system is fitted to this model. This enables the
water level in the boiler to be monitored and topped up to keep the
engine in steam for long periods.
Once the locomotive is in operation as detailed in the previous
sections, water can be added to the boiler at any time during the
run as follows.
Fill the water pump bottle from your usual water supply.
Bring the locomotive to a halt in a convenient place and carefully
remove the brass plug from the top of the steam dome.
NOTE: this will be hot and a pair of cotton gloves is provided in the
tool kit.
Push the end of the plastic tube down through the hole in the top of
the steam dome and into the socket in the top of the water filling
16

valve. Whilst still holding the pipe in position and exerting slight
downward pressure, pump the handle and this will inject water into
the boiler.
You will sometimes see water and air bubbles passing through the
sight glass as you pump so allow the level to settle after a few
pumps. Carefully pull the plastic pipe out of the water filling valve
whilst steadying the engine.
Sometimes, small particles of dirt will find their way in with the
water and may cause the water filling valve to leak back a little
when the pipe is removed. If this should happen, re-connect the
pipe and give a further pump or two of water to clear it.
As the filler valve sits vertically on top of the boiler, a small amount
of water will remain in the socket once the plastic pipe has been
removed and will boil off as the fittings return to normal operating
temperature. This is quite normal.
Replace the brass plug in the steam dome.
17
17

Once you start running your loco you will see the water level in the
gauge slowly dropping. Note that air bubbles may sometimes form
in the gauge giving a false reading but these can be pushed out by
connecting the pipe from the water pump to the water filling
connector –and injecting some water.
It is better to pump small amounts of water into the boiler at
frequent intervals as this maintains a more even boiler pressure
and prevents long waits while the cold water heats up and pressure
returns to normal operating level.
Aim to keep the water level between ½ and ¾ up the gauge and re-
fill the gas tank as detailed earlier whenever it is empty. In this way,
you can keep the loco in steam and at working pressure as long as
you like.
Don’t forget to re-fill the displacement lubricator about every 45
minutes.
STEAM WHISTLE
The radio controlled steam whistle, if fitted, is mounted under the
left hand side of the cab footplate and is operated by the right hand
control stick on the transmitter. The control stick is normally at the
bottom of its movement and pushing it up will open the whistle
valve. It can be operated at any time provided there is sufficient
steam pressure in the boiler, and the locomotive can be stationary
or moving.
The whistle incorporates a restrictor valve to keep the volume and
pitch reasonably consistent over a wide range of boiler pressures
and to reduce steam consumption.
TROUBLESHOOTING & MAINTENANCE
On a working model of this nature, it is important to keep all
working parts well lubricated as detailed in the lubrication section.
With constant heating up, cooling down and the stresses of hard
work, screws etc. can work loose so, it is good practice to check all
fixings and cylinder screws regularly, particularly when the model is
new, but remember, never over tighten.
18

STORAGE BETWEEN OPERATING SESSIONS
At the end of an operating session, it is good practice to clean the
locomotive carefully with a clean soft cloth, and to oil all bright
metal parts.
 Do not leave fuel or water in the tank or boiler for long
periods.
 Do not store in places where the temperature may drop below
freezing as water may still be present in the pipework.
 Ensure all controls are closed and the valve gear in mid gear.
 Ensure that radio control equipment is switched off.
 Remove batteries from the locomotive and the transmitter.
Periodically it may be necessary to wash off all traces of dirt and
old oil from the moving parts with paraffin (not thinners). This will
remove any accumulations of dirt or grit. After washing with
paraffin, leave to dry thoroughly overnight before re-oiling. It is
most important that clean oil is applied and allowed to penetrate
fully into all moving parts before the locomotive is run again.
Manually moving the locomotive back and forth will assist in
distributing the oil fully. Under normal operating conditions this
procedure should not be required more than once or twice per
year.
STEAM LEAKS
The cylinders are fitted with '0' rings in the glands sealing the piston
and valve rods. These can be adjusted with a spanner if steam
leaks develop. They should only be tightened just enough to stop
the leak, as over tightening will affect the running of the model.
Cylinder front and rear covers are retained by small brass cheese
head screws (4 per cover) and these can be lightly ‘nipped’ up from
time to time, if steam can be seen leaking past the gaskets that
seal them.
The cylinder valve chests are sealed by ‘O’ rings and should not
require attention however, in the unlikely event of a leak developing
at the joint, proceed as follows.
Remove the relevant tank side as detailed in the radio control
section.
19
19

Inside the side tanks.
Right hand side.
1) radio control on/off switch.
2) reversing servo.
3) receiver.
Left hand side.
5) batteries.
6) whistle valve servo.
20