roundhouse Darjeeling 'D' Class Garratt User guide

Darjeeling ‘D’ Class Garratt
Owners Handbook

Operating Instructions
IMPORTANT: Read these instructions carefully before operating
the locomotive
The following items are required for running this engine and are not
included with the model.
Fuel Butane gas. See ’Gas System’ section.
Water See 'Filling the boiler' section.
General Lubricating oil See 'Lubrication' section.
SAFETY PRECAUTIONS
This is a working model locomotive using steam under pressure
and highly flammable fuel. Provided it is operated with reasonable
care and attention, no problems should arise.
It is intended for use out of doors and must only be operated in a
well-ventilated area.
Whilst the locomotive is in use, hot gasses are exhausted up the
chimney and excess steam frequently blows off through the safety
valve even when stationary, so operator and spectators should not
bend over the model.
As you will appreciate, this is not a toy and is therefore unsuitable
for young unsupervised children.
Follow manufacturer’s recommendations regarding the safe
storage of Butane gas canisters.
Some areas of the model will get quite hot whilst it is operating, so
a pair of gloves is provided in the tool kit for your protection.
Always have to hand either a fire extinguisher or wet cloth when
operating the model.
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CONTENTS
Tool kit Page 4
Running in Page 4
Handling & transporting Page 4
Access to controls Page 5
Identification of parts of the locomotive Page 6
Preparing for operation Page 7
1. Filling the gas tank Page 7
2. Filling the boiler Page 8
3. Lubrication Page 10
4. Lighting the burner Page 11
Running the locomotive Page 12
Batteries Page 13
Radio control system Page 13
Water top-up system Page 14
Trouble shooting & maintenance Page 16
Storage between operating sessions Page 16
Steam leaks Page 16
Water top-up system Page 17
Steam regulator not shutting Page 17
Radio control Page 17
Gas system Page 17
Gas jet removal Page 18
Gas regulator maintenance Page 19
Boiler and gas tank certificate, Pages 21 & 22
(EC Declaration Of Conformity).

TOOL KIT
The following items are included with your locomotive:
One 60ml bottle of special steam oil for use in the lubricator.
One 60ml syringe with plastic tube for filling the boiler with water.
One water top up pump bottle and ‘swan neck’.
One set of spare washers and ‘O’ rings.
Two spare gas jets.
One pair of protective gloves.
One cleaning duster.
One wheel back to back gauge and Allen key.
One Allen key for cylinder socket cap screws.
RUNNING IN
All locomotives are test run before leaving the factory, but when new, will
require several hours of running in to overcome initial tightness and allow
valves etc. to 'bed in' completely. Also, the loco will waste a proportion of
it's water and steam until 'run in' due to leaking slide valves, a tendency
to prime more, and simply overcoming the initial tightness of the moving
parts. As the model heats up and cools down each time you raise steam,
screws and nuts have a tendency to stretch and loosen a little, which
means that you will need to make regular checks and 'nip up' any that
become loose.
HANDLING & TRANSPORTING
As this is a large articulated locomotive,
lifting and moving it around when not on the
track should be done with great care to
avoid damage. To aid in this, the model is
supplied with a specially designed carrying
cradle. Once the two shipping screws have
been removed (see separate instruction
sheet) the model can be rolled on or off the
cradle base as follows. Stand the cradle on
the track with the centre of the base lined up
with the centre of the track and lower the
two sides down flat.
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Holding the loco by the front and
rear footplates, roll it off onto the
track, lining up the wheels as they
exit the cradle base. Because the
loco wheels sit in cut-outs in the
base, it is necessary to lift the
model very slightly as it is
wheeled along. Once the wheels
are clear of the cut-outs, they will
roll along the base. Hold the
cradle base while rolling the loco
along to prevent it from sliding. Do
not lift the model by holding the sides of the bunkers, always hold the
footplates.
Getting the loco into the
cradle is simply a
reverse of the previous
procedure
ACCESS TO THE CONTROLS
For normal operation, all main controls are accessible without the need to
remove any part of the locomotive; however, for ease of servicing, the
cab roof can be removed by sliding backwards, and then lifting off.
The gas regulator is located in the right hand front corner of the rear
bunker.
The displacement lubricator is positioned inside the cab, at the rear left
hand side.
The gas filler valve and gas tank are situated in the rear bunker,
underneath a dummy coal load. There is a hole in the Dummy coal load
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IDENTIFICATION OF LOCOMOTIVE MAIN CONTROLS
Displacement
Lubricator
Filler Cap
Gas
Filler
Valve
Water
top up
valve Gas
Regulator
Pressure
Gauge
Water
Gauge
Rear Bunker
With cab roof and dummy
coal removed
Front Bunker
With cover and steam dome
removed.
Steam
Regulator
Displacement
Lubricator
Drain Screw
Gas Jet
Holder
Union
Nuts
Battery Holder
for ‘AAA’
Batteries
R/C switch Safety Valve

to allow access to the Gas Filler Valve. The coal load can be removed by
simply lifting it upwards.
The switch for the locomotive R/C equipment is on the rear of the front
bunker, just in front of the smoke box door..
The radio control equipment fitted to the locomotive is powered by 4 x
AAA batteries. The battery box is accessed by lifting off the top of the
front bunker.
PREPARING FOR OPERATION
The locomotive must be serviced before being operated. It is important to
perform all of the following operations.
NOTE, check that the batteries in both the R/C transmitter and the
locomotive are in good condition before attempting to operate the model -
see the Radio Control section later on.
1) FILLING THE GAS TANK
The filling of the gas tank should only be carried out in a well-ventilated
area, where there are no naked lights or other lighted locomotives close
by. Ordinary Butane or Iso-butane gas (as used in gas cigarette lighters)
is the preferred fuel, though for economy, the larger canisters as used for
blowlamps or camping stoves etc. are better. The larger canisters have
an EN417 threaded self sealing valve on top and require a special
adapter to couple up to the filler valve on the locomotive. A Gas Filler
Adapter is obtainable from your local garden railway supplier or direct
from ROUNDHOUSE. Mixed gasses are also available and may be used
if ordinary butane or iso-butane are not available, but see the ‘Gas
System’ section for more information on this subject.
Before attempting to fill the gas tank, make sure that the gas control valve
is closed by turning it clockwise and that there are no other operating
locomotives or naked flames nearby.
The filler valve for the gas tank is in the rear bunker and is accessed
through a hole in the dummy coal load. Ensure that the gas canister is
fitted with a correct adapter, then invert it and place its nozzle over the
gas filler valve. Support the locomotive from underneath in the area of the
tank, and press the canister down. The gas will be heard hissing as it
enters the tank and a small amount will escape around the valve. This is
quite normal and is the tank venting as the liquid enters. After about 30
seconds liquid gas will emerge from the valve showing that the tank is
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full. Remove the canister immediately. Filling times will vary depending
on the temperature of the locomotive and are for guidance only.
2) FILLING THE BOILER
There are two methods of filling the boiler
1/ Quick filling when cold.
The brass dome in the centre of the boiler can be lifted off to allow
access to the safety valve. This can simply be unscrewed and the boiler
filled using the syringe and tube provided.
The dome is a substantial and heavy item, being machined from solid
brass. Take care not to drop it onto the locomotive, as the weight of it
may damage the model. Care is especially needed if the locomotive is, or
has been in steam, as the dome will be hot and will retain its heat for a
considerable time.
Remove the safety valve and using the 60 ml syringe and plastic tube
supplied, fill the boiler right to the top with clean water. Distilled water is
recommended if available. As an alternative, clean tap water can be used
in soft water areas. Also, rain water or water from a dehumidifier can be
used provided that it is adequately filtered through a coffee or wine
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making filter to remove any particles or debris in the water.
Do not use deionised water as this may cause long term damage to the
boiler and fittings.
There has to be a space above the water to allow steam to be raised so,
insert the end of the plastic pipe into the boiler and withdraw 30 ml of
water with the syringe. Replace the safety valve finger tight, and then
place the dome back over it.
2/ Pump bottle when hot or cold.
In the right hand side of the cab is a top-up-valve. Fill the plastic pump
bottle with clean water and push the end of the plastic tube into the
socket in the top up valve.
The socket has a slight taper in it, and a little downward pressure on the
tube will ensure a good seal.
To assist locating the plastic tube into the top up valve, a copper ‘swan
neck’ is fitted that holds the plastic at the correct angle to enter the valve.
Pump the handle on the bottle to inject water into the boiler whilst

maintaining this downward pressure. Keep pumping until the water level
in the water gauge is almost at the top of the glass.
Remove the plastic tube. Note that a small amount of water will remain in
the top of the valve but will evaporate away as the valve heats up.
3) LUBRICATION
Regular lubrication of all working parts is important and should be carried
out before each operating session. There are two types of lubrication
required: The external moving linkages and bearings are lubricated with a
medium oil such as motor engine oil, and the internal steam mechanisms
such as cylinders, pistons and valves are lubricated with a special steam
oil. Infrequent external lubrication will allow parts to run dry, and over
oiling can form pools around operating parts that attract dirt and grit. If too
thin an oil is used it will evaporate very quickly as the loco gets hot –
leading to dry running. We recommend the use of a 20-50 motor oil for
external lubrication. When carrying out general lubrication, do not forget
the regulator spindles (see Trouble Shooting section for further details of
oiling the regulators).
Internal lubrication is achieved by steam oil that is mixed with the steam
in the displacement lubricator, housed in the rear, left-hand corner of the
cab. Unscrew and remove the knurled cap from the top of the lubricator.
Locate the knurled drain screw at the base of the lubricator and unscrew
it two or three turns, but do not remove it. Any water in the lubricator will
run out through the hole in the drain screw. When the water has finished
draining, tighten the drain screw and refill the lubricator from the top with
the steam oil supplied. Replace the cap. Take time filling the lubricator,
especially when cold, as the oil takes time to run down and may trap an
air bubble. Both cap and drain screw are fitted with ‘O’ rings and need
only be closed finger tight.
NOTE: Only special steam oil as supplied should be used in the
lubricator and under no circumstances should ordinary oil be substituted,
or damage may result.
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4) LIGHTING THE BURNER
WARNING: Before lighting read the section on the gas system in the
Troubleshooting section later on and be aware of potential problems. If
the gas system is not operating correctly, shut it off immediately or
damage may result.
Move the locomotive to another location before lighting. Butane is heavier
than air and small pockets of gas can collect around the locomotive
during filling.
To light the burners, hold a lighted match or cigarette lighter over the top
of the chimney and slowly open the gas regulator by turning it anti-
clockwise. The gas should ignite almost immediately with a pop as the
flame travels down the chimney and into the boiler tube. The burners
should be audible but not too loud.
NOTE as stated above, the gas regulator should be opened slowly until
the burners ignite. If opened too quickly or too far, particularly when the
engine is cold or if the gas tank has just been filled, it is possible that the
flame may not ignite correctly, in one or both of the burners, or may not
travel back into the boiler flue but stay in the smoke box. If this should
happen, the burners will sound quite different to normal and the blue
flame may be visible in the smoke box if viewed down the chimney from a
safe height. Should this happen, turn off the gas immediately or damage
may result and then re-light it. If the problem persists and it is not
possible to ignite the burner correctly, then a dirty jet should be
suspected and cleaned as detailed in the Troubleshooting section.
For the first couple of minutes keep the burners on low. This is important,
as until it warms up, the flame will be a little unstable and turning it up too
much could cause it to go out. Also, with a completely full tank, liquid gas
could be drawn off instead of vaporized gas, which can also extinguish
the flame.
After a couple of minutes, the gas control valve can be opened more to
speed up steam raising. Open the gas regulator slowly. The full range of
adjustment (closed to fully open) is achieved within the first half to three
quarters of a turn of the gas regulator knob. Any more is unnecessary.
As the gas tank is mounted in the rear bunker, unlike other Roundhouse
models, it does not benefit from any heating from the boiler. However, full
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steam pressure should be raised in about 4 minutes with a cold boiler. If,
after 5 or 6 minutes, pressure is not rising, shut off the gas and re-light. If
this still does not improve matters, see the section on the gas system in
the Troubleshooting.
To speed up steam raising, the boiler can be filled with hot water from a
kettle.
RUNNING THE LOCOMOTIVE
When full working pressure has been reached (between 35 and 40psi),
the safety valve will start to blow off steam. Steam generation can be
controlled by the gas regulator valve . If the safety valve blows off
frequently during running, then too much steam is being produced, which
wastes water and gas. Turning down the burners will decrease the
amount of steam created. Conversely, if steam pressure is not
maintained during a run, then the burners should be turned up.
To maintain a suitable working pressure in the gas system, a heat
exchanger coil is employed beneath the tank which utilises the exhaust
steam from the rear cylinders. Once the loco has been running for a few
minutes, this will start to warm up the gas tank and offset the natural heat
loss caused by drawing off the gas to feed the burner.
The art of balancing steam generation to the operational requirement by
the adjustment of the gas control valve will quickly be learned.
To give a longer initial run, the gas tank can now be re-filled to replace
the gas used during steam raising. Remember to shut off the gas burner
before re-filling the tank.
IMPORTANT
The gas tank has a duration of about 20 to 25 minutes, though this will
vary depending on the gas valve setting. The boiler must not be allowed
to run dry, and, as the gas tank capacity is greater than the boiler
duration, it is important to keep an eye on the water gauge and top up
with water at regular intervals. Remember that this model has four
working cylinders and the water level can drop quite quickly.
When the gas is fully used up, the steam pressure in the boiler will be
seen to gradually drop until the loco comes to a halt.
Should the water expire before the gas is fully used, the pressure will
drop rapidly and the loco will stop. Check the pressure gauge and water
gauge –if there is no steam pressure or visible water, turn off the gas. No
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damage will result if the gas is turned off immediately and the engine left
to cool naturally. Never add cold water to a hot, empty boiler in an
attempt to cool it and never re-fill the gas tank without first checking the
water level in the boiler.
Ensure that the gas valve is completely turned off before refilling the gas
tank.
BATTERIES
Batteries must be fitted to the locomotive before it can be run. The battery
holder is positioned in the front bunker under the removable top cover
and takes four AAA size.
RADIO CONTROL SYSTEM
This model is fitted with 2.4 GHz R/C equipment to control both speed
and direction. First, turn on the transmitter and then switch on the
receiver on the locomotive. The left hand stick on the transmitter controls
the steam regulator; down for stop and up for go.
The right hand stick operates the valve gear. Move the stick fully to the
left for forward and fully to the right for reverse. This stick is sprung
loaded to return to its central position.
Using the transmitter, select the desired direction of travel and then
slowly open the regulator. Initially, there will be a short delay before
anything happens, then water will exit from the exhaust and drop down
beneath the smoke box. This is quite normal and is due to the long pipe
runs and cold cylinders. As the units warm up and the condensate is
forced out, the loco will begin to move slowly and a little jerkily for the first
few revolutions of the wheels. Moving the reverser slowly from forward to
reverse a couple of times will assist the clearance of condensate from the
cylinders. Once warmed through, the loco will run normally though there
will always be a certain amount of condensate exhausting from below the
smoke box.
For more information on the radio control equipment, see the
manufacturer’s instruction booklet supplied with the Radio Control Set.
The art of fine control will soon be learnt with a little practice
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NOTE: Ensure that the valve gear is fully in gear for the required direction
when the engine is moving. The model is fitted with a simplified
Walschaerts type valve gear which is not suitable for 'notching
up' (altering the cut off).
Always bring the locomotive to a halt by closing the regulator before
changing direction. If an emergency stop is required, simply release the
reversing lever, which will spring back into mid gear and halt the train.
Then close the regulator. Always ensure that the regulator is fully closed
before switching off the radio control equipment.
Always switch off the receiver and transmitter when not in use to
preserve battery life. It is good practice to switch on the transmitter before
the receiver and switch off the receiver before the transmitter. In this way,
the radio receiver is never on when the transmitter is switched off and so
should always be under your control.
When the batteries are getting low, a poor signal between transmitter and
receiver will result and control of the engine will become erratic. Refer to
the instructions supplied with the radio control equipment.
WATER TOP UP SYSTEM
A water top up system is fitted to this model. This enables the water level
in the boiler to be monitored and topped up to keep the engine in steam
for long periods.
Once the locomotive is in operation as detailed in the previous sections,
water can be added to the boiler at any time during the run as follows.
Fill the water pump bottle from your usual water supply.
Bring the locomotive to a halt in a convenient place and, If required,
remove the cab roof.
Push the end of the plastic tube down into the water top up valve, located
in the right hand side of the cab. Whilst still holding the pipe in position
and exerting slight downward pressure, pump the handle and this will
inject water into the boiler.
You will sometimes see water and air bubbles passing through the sight
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glass as you pump so allow the level to settle after a few pumps.
Carefully pull the plastic pipe out of the water top up valve whilst
steadying the engine.
Sometimes, small particles of dirt will find their way in with the water and
may cause the water filling valve to leak back a little when the pipe is
removed. If this should happen, re-connect the pipe and give a further
pump or two of water to clear it.
A small amount of water may remain in the socket of the filler valve once
the plastic pipe has been removed and will boil off as the fittings return to
normal operating temperature. This is quite normal.
Once you start running your loco you will see the water level in the gauge
slowly dropping. Note that air bubbles may sometimes form in the gauge
giving a false reading but these can be pushed out by connecting the
pipe from the water pump to the water filling connector and injecting
some water.
It is better to pump small amounts of water into the boiler at frequent
intervals as this maintains a more even boiler pressure and prevents long
waits while the cold water heats up and pressure returns to normal
operating level.
Aim to keep the water level between ½ and ¾ up the gauge and re-fill the
gas tank as detailed earlier whenever it is empty. In this way, you can
keep the loco in steam and at working pressure as long as you like.
Don’t forget to re-fill the displacement lubricator about every 45 minutes.
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TROUBLESHOOTING & MAINTENANCE
On a working model of this nature, it is important to keep all working parts
well lubricated as detailed in the lubrication section.
With constant heating up, cooling down and the stresses of hard work,
screws etc. can work loose so, it is good practice to check all fixings and
cylinder screws regularly, particularly when the model is new but,
remember - never over tighten.
STORAGE BETWEEN OPERATING SESSIONS
At the end of an operating session, it is good practice to clean the
locomotive carefully with a clean soft cloth, and to oil all bright metal
parts.
 Do not leave fuel or water in the tank or boiler for long periods.
 Do not store in places where the temperature may drop below
freezing as water may still be present in the pipework.
 Ensure all controls are closed and the valve gear in mid gear.
 Ensure that radio control equipment is switched off.
 Remove batteries from the locomotive and the transmitter.
Periodically it may be necessary to wash off all traces of dirt and old oil
from the moving parts with paraffin (not thinners). This will remove any
accumulations of dirt or grit. After washing with paraffin, leave to dry
thoroughly overnight before re-oiling. It is most important that clean oil is
applied and allowed to penetrate fully into all moving parts before the
locomotive is run again. Manually moving the locomotive back and forth
will assist in distributing the oil fully. Under normal operating conditions
this procedure should not be required more than once or twice per year.
STEAM LEAKS
The cylinders are fitted with 'O' rings in the glands sealing both piston and
valve rods. These can be adjusted if steam leaks develop. They should
only be tightened just enough to stop the leak, as over tightening will
affect the running of the model. Cylinder covers are fitted with gaskets
and valve chests with ’O’ rings. A little ‘bubbling’ of oil may sometimes
occur around these and is quite normal; however, steam leaking past the
gasket should be attended to.
If ‘nipping up’ the retaining screws does not stop a steam leak, a service
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kit is available which includes replacement gaskets and seals and full
instructions for fitting.
WATER TOP-UP SYSTEM
Over a period of time the end of the plastic filling tube that pushes in the
boiler top-up valve will become a loose fit due to the heat of the fitting. To
cure this, simply cut approximately 6mm from the end of the tube when
necessary.
STEAM REGULATOR NOT SHUTTING
The steam regulator seating and seal can, after a period of time become
worn or compressed so that when the lever on the radio control is fully
closed, the locomotive still moves. To overcome this, a trimmer is fitted to
the transmitter. As wear takes place in the regulator, it can gradually be
adjusted to compensate. When no more adjustment is possible, it is time
to reset the trimmer and adjust the linkage between the servo and the
regulator in the cab. If adjustment does not cure this problem, the internal
'0' ring is probably damaged and requires replacement. Contact the
factory for further advice.
Periodic oiling of the gland will help keep the regulator working freely.
Place a spot of motor oil between the gland nut and the regulator arm
and work the regulator a few times.
RADIO CONTROL
If the radio control gives problems, always check the batteries first and
replace if in doubt.
For more information on using the radio control equipment, see the
manufacturer’s instruction booklet supplied with the Radio Control Set.
GAS SYSTEM
This model is fitted with our 'FG2' type twin gas burner, which is set up
and fully tested at the factory.
This system is designed for use with Butane, Iso-Butane or mixed
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gasses, i.e. Butane with a proportion of Propane mixed in. The mixed gas
come in a variety of mixes ranging from 90/10 to 60/40 with one of the
most common being 70/30. The figures refer to the proportions of the mix
i.e. 70/30 contains 70% butane and 30% propane. If using mixed gasses,
always choose the one with the largest proportion of butane. The addition
of propane slightly alters the gasses properties. This can make the burner
a little more difficult to light when cold or after filling the gas tank. Always
open the regulator very slowly when lighting, and only just sufficient for
ignition to take place. Opening too much too soon may extinguish the
flame on one or both until the burner reaches normal operating
temperature.
The tiny jet in these units can become blocked, or partially occluded by
small particles of dirt making the burner difficult to light, burn weakly at
normal operating temperatures*, burn in the smokebox or fail completely.
(* On very cold days, a burner may start off burning weakly due to the
temperature of the gas but should increase to its normal level as the
engine warms up. This is quite normal).
If any of these should happen the Gas Jet will require cleaning or
replacing.
On the ‘FG2’ twin burner system, it is possible for just one jet to be
affected. If it is possible to light the gas but it sounds unstable or is
incapable of raising or maintaining steam pressure, even after re-lighting,
then a dirty jet is the probable cause. To establish which one is not
working, first remove the cab roof. Light the burner as normal and allow it
to warm up for a minute or two then, with a small screwdriver, enter the
tip of the blade into the burner air holes one at a time, and place it in front
of the gas jet. The interruption of the gas flow will have no effect on the
burner that is not working. If it is OK, you will hear the burner go out. If in
doubt then replace both jets.
GAS JET REMOVAL
To remove the gas jets, first remove the roof. Using a 2BA spanner,
unscrew the two Gas Jet Holder Union Nuts. This connects the gas pipe
to the gas regulator - see the diagram on Page 23. Loosen the gas jet
holder retaining screws which will allow the gas jet holders to be pulled
backwards and out. The Gas Jet can now be removed from the gas jet
holder using a 4 BA spanner, and cleaned or replaced.
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Note when connecting or disconnecting the gas pipe or gas jet holder, do
not use excessive force. Wash out the jet in fast evaporating thinner
(Cellulose or similar). Blow through the jet from the front, which should
clear most blockages. Although the hole through the jet is tiny, if you hold
it up to the light you should be able to see quite clearly if it is blocked or
not. If in doubt, fit a new jet - 2 spares are included with the toolkit. Do not
use wire to clean the jets as this can damage the precision hole and may
upset the delicate balance of the gas system. Reassemble in the reverse
order, putting a small amount of PTFE tape round the thread of the jet.
Ensure all connections are tight. When re-positioning the gas jet holder in
the burner, ensure that it is pushed in as far as it will go.
GAS REGULATOR MAINTENANCE
The gas regulator has a spindle ‘O’ ring housed inside the body which
may need lubrication from time to time if the control becomes ‘spongy’ in
operation, making precise gas control difficult.
As stated in the lighting instructions earlier, the full range of adjustment
for normal burner operation is achieved within the first full rotation of the
regulator knob, and it should only be unscrewed more than this for
maintenance purposes and when the tank is empty, and there are no
naked lights nearby.
To lubricate it, remove the knurled knob which is retained by a M3 socket
grub screw (M 1.5 AF Allen key required) in the side.
Beneath the knob is a back-lash spring which will slide off the spindle.
Unscrew the hexagon retaining nut then screw the spindle out of the
body.
The ‘O’ ring can now be lubricated.
Replace the spindle followed by the retaining nut. Slide the backlash
spring over the spindle and replace the knob. Note that the grub screw
that holds the knob in place tightens into a groove near the end of the
spindle.
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Gas Regulator (Internal Parts)
Regulator
Body Back-Lash Spring
Regulator
Spindle White PTFE Washer Knurled Knob
‘O’ ring to be
lubricated Hexagon Retaining
Nut

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