Auber Instruments Auberins KIT-GGP User manual

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KIT-GGP Installation Guide For Gaggia Classic
Version 1.2
5755 North Point Pkwy, Suite 99, Alpharetta, GA 30022
e-mail: i[email protected] Tel: [phone]
www.auberins.com
This is a PID controller kit installation guide distributed solely to our clients, who have
purchased the KIT-GGP kit. Once you are done with this guide, please send us your feedback,
comments, or suggestions (to [email protected]) so that we may continue making
improvements on this guide. Your help is greatly appreciated!
Note: Please read through the entire guide before attempting any kind of installation.
Disclaimer:
This product was created and distributed by Auber Instruments Inc. Everything included in this
guide (images, text, etc.) is the intellectual property of Auber Instruments Inc. Thus, this guide is
not to be replicated, altered, or sold without express written permission from Auber Instruments
Inc. If you did not receive this document from Auber Instruments Inc, please let us know for it
may be obsolete or inaccurate. . The Gaggia names and trademarks are owned by Gaggia S.p.A.
The modifications of Gaggia involve tampering with high-wattage electrical circuits in a wet
environment, which could result in electric shock, burns, serious personal injury or death, as well
as, fire, explosion and other property damage. This kit is for users with proper electrical safety
knowledge only. Attempting to access your espresso machine will void its warranty. You, the
user, will assume full responsibility for any modifications undertaken. Auber Instruments Inc is
not liable for any damage caused to your property as a result of improper use.
Parts Identification.
Fig 1. Preassembled PID controller, aluminum box, rubber grommet, and double-sided
tape.

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Fig 2. Solid state relay (SSR), mounting screw, silicone heat transfer compound (white
paste in the plastic vial) for SSR, and spiral-cut tubing for protecting exposed cable.
Fig 3. Cables for connecting SSR output to heater. Terminated with spade tongue
terminal on one end and tab terminal on the other end.
Fig 4. Cables for connecting controller output to SSR input. Red-colored cable for
positive. White-colored cable for negative. One end is terminated with spade tongue
terminal.

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Fig 5. Two cables for tapping power to controller. One end is terminated with piggyback
connector. The black cable is for tapping the front switch. The brown cable is for tapping
the back connector.
Fig 6. Temperature sensor, Pt100 RTD, with screw tip.

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Fig 7. Cable ties and jumper cables.
The white jumper cable is for the RTD, and the black jumper cable is for brew pump
control.
Fig 8. Steam control cables.
Fig 9. Green piggyback connector for brew pump control.

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Fig 10. Controller box grounding wire. Please note the difference between this wire and
the wire shown in Fig 9.
Procedure
WARNING: The cable color codes on for Gaggia Classic made in different year are not the
same. Please verify the cables on your particular machine by its connections before
proceeding.
A. Preparation for installation.
1) Disconnect the power cord from the power outlet. Remove the water tank, portafilter, and
drip tray.
2) Remove the screws from the top of machine as indicated by red arrows below. Then,
remove the conveyor funnel and the top cover.
Fig 11. Red arrows indicate the screws which need to be removed for opening the top.
3) Identify the critical parts and location.

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Fig 12. Critical parts location. Red arrow on the left indicates where the brown colored
power cable for controller is going to be tapped. The right red arrow indicates where
black colored power cable for the controller, the steam control cables, and pre-infusion
pump control cable are going to be installed. Green arrow indicates the location that
SSR is going to be mounted. Yellow arrow points to the steam control thermostat. Blue
arrow indicates the coffee thermostat location (it is below the cables, close to the bottom
of the boiler).
B. Install the SSR.
1) Assemble the cables on to the SSR as illustrated in Fig 13. The two red-colored thick
cables with soft silicone rubber insulation should be connected to the terminal marked as 1
and 2. It doesn't matter which one goes to 1 or 2. The red-colored thin cable should be
connected to 3 (+). The white-colored thin cable should be connected to 4 (-). The clear
plastic protection cover on the SSR can be removed for easier installation of the cable.
Tighten the screws, and make sure the cables hold securely.

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Fig 13. SSR wiring.
2) Apply the silicone heat transfer compound to the back metal surface of the SSR. Mount the
SSR to the left rear corner as shown in Fig 14. Use the M4 screw set supplied in the kit to
mount the SSR (please notice the orientation of SSR as shown in the following picture).
The M4 screw can be tightened with a 7 mm socket wrench.
Fig 14. Top: SSR installed. Bottom: Screw location for SSR mounting.

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C. Install the RTD sensor and connect the SSR.
Fig 15, Coffee thermostat location is indicated by the blue arrow. It is on the left side (as
viewed from the front) close to the bottom of the boiler.
There are two thermostats on the boiler. The one on the lower left side (viewing from the front of
the machine, Blue arrow in Fig 12 and 15) is the brew water temperature control thermostat (or
coffee thermostat as referred to by the factory). The one on the top is for controlling the steam
temperature. The coffee thermostat needs to be removed. The new RTD sensor will take its
position. The thermostat is held in place by the screw on its tip (Fig 16). Because the thermostat
is hard to reach, it is a little tricky to do this. To remove the thermostat, you need to unplug the
two cables from the thermostat. Use a 17 mm wrench, or long-nose pliers, to turn the thermostat
counterclockwise to loosen the thermostat.
Fig 16, Coffee thermostat
1) Install the RTD sensor. CAUTION: The cable connection of the RTD sensor is very
fragile because of the small size and lack of strain relief. To prevent the sensor from

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getting damaged, install the sensor without unwrapping the cable (i.e., install it the way it
was received as shown in Fig 6). This will reduce any twisting and pulling force acting
on the sensor while screwing it into place. The sensor does not need to be very tight.
Finger tight is OK. [NOTE: If you want to make sure the sensor didn’t get damaged
during installation, you can measure the resistance of the sensor after installation. It
should be in the 100 to 110 ohm range at room temperature.].
Fig 17a. The red arrow shows the RTD sensor after installation (Gaggia Coffee, instead of
Gaggia Classic, is in the picture because the sensor mounting site is easier to show)
2) Install SSR output cable. One cable from the SSR output (one of the two thick red
wires from SSR) needs to be connected to the cable connector that was on the brew water
thermostat (red arrow in Fig 17b). The other cable from the SSR output need to be
connected to the gray cable connector that was on the steam thermostat (red arrow in Fig
17c and Fig 17d). In other words, one SSR output cable goes to the cable from the brew
thermostat, the other SSR output cable goes to the cable from steam thermostat.

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Fig 17b. Cables from brew thermostat. Single grey wire should be connected to one of the
SSR outputs. The connector with double blue wires is not connected to anything.
Fig 17c, Steam thermostat. The connector with double cable (red arrow) needs to be
connected to the second SSR output cable.

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Fig 17d Double grey wires from the steam control thermostat should be connected to the
second SSR output indicated by the red arrow. Connector with single blue cable can be left
on the steam thermostat or leave in the air (green arrow).
Note: Since not all Gaggia Classic use the same color code for cable, connecting which cable on
the thermostat to the SSR output cable can be confusing. There is an easier way to solve this
problem. There is one cable on the thermostat connects between the brew thermostat and steam
thermostat. It also connects to the steam switch (the blue colored cable in this machine). This is
the cable that will NOT be connected to the SSR output control cable. After installation, all
three ends of this cable can be left in the air. The other two cables, one on the brew thermostat
and the other on the steam thermostat, need to be connected to the SSR output cables.
D. Tapping the controller power line to the espresso machine.
The power for the controller is tapped from two places. One cable is tapped to the hot wire from
the main power switch in the front. The other cable is tapped to the neutral wire at the back panel
where the power line enters the machine.
1) Tap the hot wire on the main power switch at the front panel. The black colored cable with
piggyback connector needs to be tapped to the center tab of the power switch. Fig 18a is for
Gaggia Classic made before 2006. It has two blue wires on the center tap. Fig. 18b is for
Gaggia Classic made after 2006. It has two white wires on the center tab. Remove the
cable(s) on the center tab of the switch, and install our piggyback connector with black
cable to the center tab. Then put the original cable on the piggyback connector as shown in
Fig 18a [NOTE: You might need to bend the spade tongue of the piggyback connector to
make them fit in the space.]

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Fig 18a. Front wire tapping for new Gaggia Classic made before 2006. Tap the hot wire to
the main power switch in the front panel. Top: Red arrow indicates the connector to be
tapped. Center: Red arrow indicates the cable has been disconnected. Bottom: Power

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cable for controller has been tapped. Original blue cable has been placed onto the
piggyback connector.
Fig 18b. Front wire tapping for new Gaggia Classic made after 2006. Tap the hot wire to
the center tab of the main power switch. This is the same as Fig 18a except the color of the
power wire is white instead of blue.
2) Tap the neutral wire to the back panel cable entrance. There are two cables at the
cable entrance (not including the ground wire on some of the three wire machines). One
of them goes to the top tab of the front power switch. The other cable goes to the thermal
fuse on the top of the boiler (the fuse is inside of the translucent silicone tubing clamped
on the top of the boiler. You need to tap the brown controller power cable to the cable
that is not going to the front main power switch.

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Fig 19a Red arrow indicates the cable need to be tapped.
Fig 19b. Red arrow indicates brown controller power cable is tapped to the blue power
cable of the machine.
Notes:
1) The Gaggia electric wiring is not very consistent. The color of the cable varies from year
to year. Therefore, the wire to be tapped is not always to be the one on the top of the
entrance socket. A trick to find the right wire is to trace the wire to find out which one
goes to the top tab of the front power switch. Then, tap the other wire that is not going to
the front switch. If the wrong cable is tapped, the typical syndrome is that controller

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stays on no mater if the power switch is on or off. If that is case, you need to tape the
brown wire for the other wire on the back entrance socket.
2) For the Gaggia machine, most of time, the hot wire went to the front power switch, but
sometimes, the neutral wire went to the front power switch. For the kit installation, you
don’t need to identify which is hot and which is neutral. Just tap the black wire to the
front switch and brown wire to the back power entrance tab.
E. Grounding wire.
Gaggia Classic sold in US and many countries has only two conductors at the power entrance.
One is hot and other is neutral. There is no ground wire. This step can be skipped.
Fig 20a. Grounding wire on some of the Gaggia.
Gaggia Classic sold in some of the European country has three conductors at the power entrance.
The extra conductor is connected to a green cable with yellow strip. This is the ground wire. The
red arrow in Fig 20a indicates where the cable should be removed and tapped to the grounding
cable (similar to the way the power cable was tapped). Red arrow in Fig 20b indicates that after
the controller box is installed, the other end of the grounding wire should be connected behind
the controller box (Fig 20c).

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Fig 20b. Grounding wire tapping. Green arrow indicates where to remove the original
grounding cable of the machine (green cable with yellow stripe). Then, tap the grounding
wire of the PID kit to the ground post on the socket. After that, plug the original grounding
wire of the machine to the piggyback connector.
Fig 20c. Back view of the controller box after tapping grounding wire. Red arrow indicates
where to install the grounding wire.
F. Connecting the stream control cable.

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Fig 21a Remove the two steam switch cables as indicated by the red and blue arrow. Gaggia
Classic made between 2006 and 2010.
Fig 21b. Remove the two steam switch cables as indicated by the red and blue arrow.
Gaggia Classic made before 2006 and after 2010. Note the color difference of the cable than
figure 21a. The center top connector has two white cables instead of two blue cable.
Fig 21c. Replace the steam control cables for Gaggia Classic.
Remove both the blue cable and the white cable from the steam switch as red and blue arrows
show in Fig 21a and Fig 21b. Install the steam control cables (blue and white) to the steam

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switch terminal blades. [NOTE: It is not critical whether the new blue or the new white cable is
on the top of the switch shown in Fig 21c.]
G. Connecting the Brew pump control.
Fig 22a. Brew pump wire tapping. Red arrow indicates where the brew cable needs to be
tapped.
Fig 22b. Red arrow indicates the red cable has been removed. Piggyback connector with
green cable is attached to the switch tab.

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Fig 22c. Red arrow indicates the red cable has been reinstalled back to the piggyback
connector. Green arrows show the steam control cables. Blue arrow indicates the power
cable.
H. Connecting the controller.
1) Remove all 8 screws on the controller box. Save them in a safe place.
2) Feed the 2 controller power cables (black and brown), 2 SSR control cable (red and
white), 2 steam control cables(white and blue), 1 brew pump control cable (green) and 2
RTD sensor cables (clear), to the outside through the vent opening in the back panel of
the machine (Fig 23).
Fig 23. Feed the cables from the first slot on the right side (back view).
3) Feed all cables through the rubber grommet on the back panel of the controller box. Make
sure the direction of the back panel is correct. The surface with chamfered screw whole is

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the outside surface. Cables should come from the outside surface to the inside. You need
to fit the cables through the grommet one at a time. See Fig 24.
Fig 24. Feed cables through the back panel of controller box.
4) Feed the cables through the controller box BEFORE connecting them to the controller as
shown in Fig 25.
Fig 25. Wiring of the controller.
Wiring the controller correctly is a very critical step. Failure to install it correctly can cause
damage to the machine and electric shock. The terminal numbers are printed on the labels
located on both sides of the controller. Table 1 shows wiring to the controller terminals. The
brown-colored power cable needs to be connected to terminal 1. The black-colored power
cable needs to be connected to terminal 2. The SSR input cable has a polarity. The red-
colored cable is for terminal 10. Two white-colored cables, one for SSR input and one for
steam control are connected to terminal 9. The blue-colored steam control cable connects to
terminal 3. The RTD cable needs to be connected to terminals 7 and 8. The white-colored
RTD jumper cable needs to be connected between terminals 6 and 7. The black-colored
jumper cable needs to be connected between terminals 2 and 4. The green-colored cable
needs to be connected to terminal 5. See Fig 26. Bending the wire tip will make the insertion