GRAUPNER MICRO MAGIC Instruction Manual

GRAUPNER GmbH & Co. KG D-73230 KIRCHHEIM/TECK GERMANY #0057088
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modifications. Sous réserve de modifications! Nous ne sommes pas responsables d’éventuelles erreurs d’impression! 11/2006
17
Building instructions for the racing MICRO MAGIC model boat, Order No. 2014
Description of the model
The racing MICRO MAGIC has been developed to reflect progress in the MICRO MAGIC regatta scene. In its
standard form the boat represents a modified version of the original model designed for the ambitious regatta
skipper; it is intended to complement the earlier MICRO MAGIC, which has proved to be very popular. The
racing MICRO MAGIC includes a carbon fibre rig with a slim 5 mm Ø mast, improved sails and a completely
new set of high-quality plastic fittings. A new feature - unprecedented in a kit model - is the variable-position
keel (fore-and-aft direction), which enables the operator to adjust the model very quickly to suit varying sailing
conditions, and to satisfy the operator’s personal preferences. The revised keel fin and rudder are of slightly
reduced area and thinner profiles in order to reduce water resistance. The slightly heavier ballast bulb is also
longer, resulting in enhanced directional stability. The boat is designed for an RC system consisting of fairly
small, lightweight components, and the internal arrangement has been optimised with such a system in mind.
An additional micro-servo can also be fitted to provide jib sheet trim control from the transmitter, so that the sail
trim can be fine-tuned while the boat is on the water. The sail adjustment system has been designed for
reduced friction, with a double control arm and return pulleys, with the result that a lighter servo can also be
employed safely.
The shape of the bow and stern have been re-worked slightly to give the boat a more modern appearance, but
the basic lines of the original hull have been left unchanged in order to stay within the German class rules.
Specification
Overall length approx. 535 mm
Beam approx. 180 mm
Overall height approx. 980 mm
All-up weight approx. 850 g
Sail area approx. 1450 cm²
Important safety notes
You have purchased a kit which can be assembled to produce a fully working RC model when fitted out with
the appropriate accessories. As manufacturers, we at GRAUPNER are not in a position to influence the way
you install, operate and maintain the model, nor the other components used in connection with the model. For
this reason we are obliged to deny all liability for loss, damage or costs which are incurred due to the
incompetent or incorrect use and operation of our products, or which are connected with such operation in any
way. Unless otherwise prescribed by binding law, the obligation of the GRAUPNER company to pay
compensation, regardless of the legal argument employed, is excluded. This includes personal injury, death,
damage to buildings, loss of trade or turnover, interruption of business or other indirect or direct damages which
are caused by the operation of the model.
Under all circumstances and in all cases the company’s overall liability is limited to the amount which you
actually paid for this model.
The model is operated at the sole risk of the operator. To avoid injury to persons and damage to
property please handle your model boat carefully and operate it conscientiously at all times.
Before you run the boat for the first time it is important to check that your private third party insurance policy
provides cover when you are operating model boats of this kind. If you are not sure, take out a special
insurance policy designed to cover the risks of RC modelling.
These safety notes are important, and must be kept in a safe place. If you ever dispose of the model, be sure to
pass them on to the new owner.
Guarantee conditions
The guarantee covers replacement of any parts which can be shown to exhibit manufacturing faults or material
defects within the guarantee period of 24 months from the initial date of purchase. No other claims will be
considered. Cost of transport, packing and freight are payable by the purchaser. We accept no liability for
damage in transit. When you send the product to GRAUPNER, or to the approved Service Centre for your
country, you must include a clear and concise description of the fault together with the invoice showing the date
of purchase. The guarantee is invalid if the component or model fails due to an accident, incompetent handling
or incorrect usage.

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The following points are important and must be observed at all times:
• This model is not suitable for young persons under fourteen years of age.
• The keel ballast bulb is made of lead! This material is toxic, and must not be allowed to enter the body.
Sanding dust and slivers of the metal are particularly dangerous, as they can easily be ingested. After
working on the lead weight, clean the work place immediately, and wash your hands thoroughly. If possible
wear gloves when handling this material.
• If you need to dispose of the lead weight at any time, be sure to take it to your local toxic waste collection
point. It must never be discarded in the household refuse. If you are not sure where you can take scrap
lead, ask your local authority for information.
• The projecting parts of the model may be sharp, and the aerials and masts may cause eye injuries.
• If the model is to be built by a youngster, a parent or guardian must monitor the assembly process, as tools
and adhesives can be hazardous.
• Please operate the model carefully when there are persons or animals in the water; always keep a safe
distance between the boat and man or beast.
• Never run your boat in a protected site, an animal or plant sanctuary or a site of special scientific interest
(SSSI). Check with your local authority that the stretch of water you wish to use is suitable for model boats.
• Do not sail the vessel in salt water.
• Never run your boat in adverse conditions, e.g. rain, storm, strong wind (above Beaufort 4), choppy water
or strong currents.
• As the model is propelled solely by the wind, it should only be sailed in wind strengths of 1 to 3 on the
Beaufort scale (leaves moving in the wind). If the wind is stronger, the boat could heel severely and be
impossible to control. Gusty conditions should also be avoided.
• The model requires a breeze in order to move, i.e. in flat calm conditions the boat will just remain stationary
on the water. Please bear this in mind before sailing the model.
• Before you operate the boat, please check that the radio control system is working reliably.
• It is important to check the range of the radio control system: switch the radio control system on, hold the
transmitter in your hands, and walk about 50 m away from the boat. All the radio-controlled functions
should continue to work normally at this range.
• Ensure that the channel you intend to use is not already occupied by another modeller. Never run the boat
if you are not certain that your channel is free.
• Note that other radio equipment and transmitting stations may cause serious interference to the model’s
receiving system. If possible, ensure that no such apparatus is in use in the vicinity while you are operating
the boat.
• Switch the model’s radio system off before carrying out any work on the boat.
• Dry cells and rechargeable batteries must never be short-circuited, nor allowed to come into direct contact
with water.
• Remove all batteries from the model and the transmitter when you know you will not be using them in the
near future.
• Do not subject the model to high levels of humidity, heat, cold or dirt.
• Secure the model and the transmitter when transporting them, as they may be seriously damaged if they
are free to slide about.
• Never operate the model on moving water (e.g. a river), as it could easily be washed away downstream if
the wind conditions change.
• If you have to salvage the model, take care not to risk your own life or that of others.
• Check regularly that the boat is completely watertight, as it may sink if too much water enters the hull.
Check the model for damage before every run, and ensure that water cannot penetrate the hull.
• Allow the boat to dry out thoroughly after use.
Care and maintenance
• Clean the model carefully after every run, and remove any water which gets inside the hull. If water gets
into any of the RC components, dry them out and send them to your nearest GRAUPNER Service Centre
for checking.
• Clean the model and the transmitter using suitable cleaning agents only. We recommend wiping with a lint-
free cloth. Never use chemical cleaners, solvents, petrol, white spirit or similar.

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Notes on building the model
• This model is not intended for the beginner to modelling, and for this reason the instructions do not cover
every single step of construction, as we assume that the experienced model builder will be familiar with
these standard techniques.
• We recommend that you visit the Internet website www.micromagic-rc-segeln.de for the latest information
on assembling and setting up the model.
• If you do not understand the technical terms relating to sailing boats, you can download a sketch showing
the basic terminology from the Internet site mentioned above.
• Before you start building the boat, please take the time to study the plan and read right through the
instructions, referring constantly to the Parts List. In general terms the instructions and parts list reflect the
sequence of assembly.
• The laser-cut wooden components are retained in their sheets by small lugs. Cut them through from both
sides using a sharp knife, then break the parts away from the waste material.
• All the laser-cut parts have a black outline caused by the cutting process. You can easily sand this off if
you wish.
• The wooden internal parts for the hull are accurately pre-cut, but it is still important to trim them to match
the shape of the hull and deck precisely. If the bulkheads are a tight fit, they will show through on the
outside of the hull, so it is important to trim the parts as carefully and as accurately as you can.
• TIP: the rigging cord is easier to thread through small holes and openings if you first apply a drop of cyano
to the end to harden it, then cut off the frayed extremity.
• Compare the laser-cut parts with the sketches at the end of these instructions to help you identify them
and assign the part numbers.
• Wooden parts which have been coated with GLATTFIX sanding sealer cannot be glued satisfactorily using
UHU acrylit or STABILIT express, so keep the sealer away from the joint areas. You should also avoid
smearing excess adhesive onto the model’s surfaces, as this will often prevent paint adhering properly.
This applies in particular when you are gluing the vacuum-moulded plastic parts.
• Please bear in mind that many tools can be dangerous if misused or handled carelessly.
• Deploy the receiver aerial as high up in the hull as possible. Reception will be very poor if it is positioned
below the waterline, and effective range will be greatly reduced.
• It is important to clean the joint surfaces carefully before gluing parts together. This is best done by
sanding lightly, followed by wiping with a non-greasy liquid detergent or methylated spirit (“meths”). The
same applies to all surfaces which are to be painted, as this improves the paint’s adhesion considerably.
• Recommended adhesives for joining particular materials:
Material - material Suitable adhesives
Metal - metal Cyano-acrylate, UHU plus
ABS - wood Cyano-acrylate, UHU acrylit
ABS - ABS Cyano-acrylate, UHU acrylit, UHU plast spezial
ABS - metal Cyano-acrylate, UHU acrylit
Wood - wood Cyano-acrylate, UHU hart, white glue
Wood - metal Stabilit express
Read the instructions supplied with the adhesives. Be sure to observe any special notes in the instructions regarding particular
adhesives. If you are using acetone, methylated spirits or any other solvent as a cleaning agent, special safety measures are
necessary. Read the instructions supplied with these materials.

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Assembly instructions
• Assemble the boatstand by fitting together the front
support (part 1), the rear support (part 2) and the
side panels (part 3); take care to glue the joints
securely. Paint the finished stand when the glue is
dry, and apply the self-adhesive foam tape (part 4)
to the contact surfaces (not shown in the photo).
The tape avoids scratches to the painted hull.
• Assemble the keel / mast socket (part 5).
IMPORTANT: don’t follow the outside shape of the
vacuum-moulded parts when gluing the parts
together. It is the inside area, which accepts the
keel, which is important: the sides must be exactly
parallel, otherwise the keel will not fit properly later.
• Glue a mast support reinforcement (part 6) on each
side of the keel / mast socket on the underside, at
the position of the semi-circular lugs.
• Glue together the two servo mount supports (part
7), and adjust the slot for the keel / mast socket so
that the supports are an easy sliding fit on the
socket. Glue this assembly to the keel / mast
socket, aligned exactly as shown; the dimensions
are stated on the plan. NOTE: one of the supports
has a deeper slot for the keel / mast socket; this
part should face down.
• Glue the completed keel / mast socket in the hull
(part 8), taking care to position it accurately. Apply
a fillet of UHU acrylit all round on the underside, to
ensure that the socket is completely watertight.
• Sand back the bow reinforcement (part 9) until it is
an easy, snug fit in the tip of the bow. Glue the
reinforcement in place securely using UHU acrylit.
NOTE: take care to position the reinforcement
accurately, as the central girder (part 25) must rest
on it later.
• Glue one of the rudder bush reinforcements (part
10) over the hole for the rudder bush.
• Glue the two reinforcements for the sail servo (part
12) and the reinforcement for the jib trim servo
(part 13) to the underside of the servo plate (part
11). Adjust the opening for the keel / mast socket
so that the plate is a snug sliding fit over it, without
compressing the socket. NOTE: the servo plate
without the servo opening should be used if you

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intend to install a sail servo other than those specified. Mark the outline of the servo opening and cut it out
using a fretsaw. Position the opening so that the servo pivot axis will coincide with the hull centreline.
• All the bulkheads and reinforcements can now be
glued under the deck (part 14). Taper the cockpit
bulkhead (part 15) using a sanding block, so that it
fits snugly in the channel in the deck. Glue the
bulkhead in place permanently when you are
satisfied. Glue the two reinforcements (parts 17 +
18) to the rudder servo plate (part 16), and insert
the rudder servo plate assembly in the cockpit
bulkhead. If the plate does not fit, adjust the slot in
the bulkhead as required. Glue the plate
permanently to the bulkhead when the fit is
correct. NOTE: the semi-circular lug should rest
snugly on the deck (cockpit). If there is a gap, fill it
with UHU acrylit.
• Glue the second rudder bush reinforcement (part
10) over the hole for the rudder bush.
• Glue the central bulkhead (part 19) to the recess
in the canopy opening. Check that the bulkhead is
central and at right-angles to the surface of the
deck.
• Glue the two lower shroud reinforcements (part
20) to the deck.
• Glue the four canopy latch reinforcements (part
21) at the bottom, flush with the recess in the
opening. The position is shown on the plan, but
you can change the location if you wish. TIP: mark
the position of the reinforcements on the outside of
the deck using a felt-tip pen. This avoids problems
later when you are fitting the turnbuckles (part 47),
as their retaining screws have to be fitted into the
reinforcements. NOTE: the canopy (part 55) is
designed in such a way that it will normally be held
securely by its fit in the deck. However, for
competition work or harsh sailing conditions we
would always recommend that you install the
supplementary canopy latches.
• Glue the stern reinforcement (part 22) to the deck,
keeping it central. Glue the stern side
reinforcements (part 23) to the deck.
IMPORTANT: remember to maintain the 3 mm
gap between the plywood parts and the deck
channel, as the hull has to be glued in that space
(see photo). Sand the deck back flush with the
wood.
• Sand one end of the central girder (part 25) to match the shape of the bow, cut it to a length of 210 mm,
and glue it to the deck. IMPORTANT: ensure that the girder does not foul the keel / mast socket; it should
end in front of this.
• The holes for the M2 captive nuts (part 24) can now be drilled; the positions are indicated by the markings
on the deck. Drill a 2 mm Ø hole at each marked point, cutting through the deck and the reinforcement
together. Now carefully open up the holes from the underside using a 4.2 mm Ø drill, cutting only through
the wood, so that the cylindrical spigots of the M2 captive nuts (part 24) fit in them. The captive nuts can
now be pressed into the wood. TIP: water pump pliers are very good for this, but remember to protect the
ABS deck with a piece of scrap wood, otherwise the serrations of the plier jaws will mark the ABS. Secure
the captive nuts with a drop of thin cyano first, then apply a fillet of UHU acrylit, so that they cannot possibly
work loose. IMPORTANT: take care not to allow excess adhesive to run into the threaded part of the nuts.
NOTE: if you accidentally drill right through the deck, you can glue the four 7 Ø / 2.1 Ø mm washers
(supplied) on top; these will conceal the oversized holes.
• The next step is to cut the slot in the deck for the keel attachment: the length is indicated by the two
marked points. The slot should be between 2.5 mm and 3 mm wide. TIP: drill 2.5 mm Ø holes in the deck

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at the marked points, then form the slot by running
a sharp knife between the two holes, working as
accurately as you can. The slot should only be
trimmed to final size when the deck and hull have
finally been joined.
• The deck can now be glued to the hull: the first step
is to check that the two parts are a snug fit
together; if not, trim them carefully until they are an
accurate fit. Apply UHU plus (e.g. Order No. 962) to
the bow reinforcement (part 9) and the central
girder (part 25) where the parts meet. Now apply
plenty of UHU plast spezial to the edge of the deck
- omitting the stern area - and join the parts without
delay. IMPORTANT: ensure that neither the hull
nor the deck is distorted when the parts are joined.
Hold the hull and deck together using adhesive
tape or rubber bands while the glue is hardening.
However, don’t apply too much pressure, or the hull
will distort. Allow the glue to cure completely, then
apply a little UHU plast spezial along the joint
edges to fill any lurking gaps.
• Apply plenty of high-viscosity (thick) cyano-acrylate
glue to the unglued gap at the stern. TIP: move the
parts relative to each other to persuade the
adhesive to work its way into the joint. Tape the
stern area together while the cyano is hardening.
• The stern area can now be sanded flat;
alternatively you can leave the hull projecting
slightly beyond the deck.
• At this point you must check the hull / deck joint for
leaks. You may need to run more cyano along the
joint to fill any remaining gaps.
• The deck can now be stiffened by gluing the central
bulkhead (part 19) to the keel / mast socket (part
5).
• The rudder bush (part 26) is glued in the hull next;
you may need to trim the hole slightly. Position the
rudder bush in the hull as shown on the plan, and
glue it in place using think cyano, forming a narrow
fillet of adhesive round the bush at top and bottom.
Allow the glue to cure completely, then sand back
the underside flush with the hull. It is important that
the gap between the rudder (part 27) and the
surface of the hull is as small as possible. If the gap
is not even, you may need to trim the top edge of
the rudder blade to match the shape of the hull.
• Set the rudder servo (part 28) to centre from the
transmitter, fit the output arm (part 29) on it, and
install the servo in the servo plate using the
retaining screws provided.
• Assemble the tiller (part 30) from the plastic lever,
the collet and the M3 screw. Fit the tiller assembly
on the rudder shaft and tighten the retaining screw.
• Drill two 2 mm Ø holes for the cable guides (part
31) in the positions shown, cut two 15 mm lengths
from the snake inner sleeve provided, and glue
them in the holes in the hull using cyano.
IMPORTANT: ensure that the guides are angled
correctly, so that the cables have as straight a run
as possible when installed at a later stage.
• Drill two 4 mm Ø holes in the hull for the sheet

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guides (part 32), in the positions shown on the plan. Glue the sheet guides in the holes.
• Fit two fillister-head screws (part 33) in the deck in the positions shown on the plan, leaving a gap of about
0.5 mm between the deck and the screw-heads. These screws are used later to secure the jib boom and
the shrouds.
• Remove the ring-screw (part 34) from the end of the
tensioners without the notch; only this one end
features the right-hand M2 thread. Fit a washer (part
35) on each ring-screw, and screw them into the M2
captive nuts in the deck. IMPORTANT: take care not
to push the screws into the captive nuts, otherwise
they might come adrift inside the hull.
• Install the sail servo (part 36), the jib trim servo (part
37) and the switch (part 38) in the servo plate (part
11), using the retaining screws supplied with the
servos. Shorten the output arm of the jib trim servo
as shown on the plan. Screw the sail setting lever
(part 39) to the output arm (part 29) using four
fillister-head screws (part 33). Sand back the points
of the screws so that they end flush with the
underside of the sail setting lever.
• Assemble the pulley blocks (part 40), ensuring that the pulleys swivel freely; you may need to sand off the
rough edges from the injection-moulded parts. NOTE: the pulley blocks are made of a special low-friction
plastic. Screw the completed pulley blocks to the servo setting lever using fillister-head screws (part 33).
Note that the flat plate of the pulley blocks must rest on the lever. NOTE: the pulley blocks should be fixed
in place; they should not rotate with the pulleys.
• Thread the jib sheet (part 42) through the sheet guide into the hull from the outside. Run the sheet past the
right-hand side of the keel / mast socket, thread it through the pulley block and tie it to the servo arm on the
jib trim servo. TIP: secure the knot with a drop of cyano. TIP: the jib sheet could easily disappear into the
hull as you continue to work on the hull, so tie a toothpick or similar to the exposed end to prevent this.
NOTE: if you don’t wish to use a jib trim servo, simply tie the end of the jib sheet permanently to the rear
fixing hole for the jib trim servo.
• Screw the servo plate to the servo mount support
inside the hull using two fillister-head screws (part 41)
and two washers (part 43) (in the interests of clarity
the photo shows the hull without the deck fitted).
• Drill a 1.5 mm Ø hole to the left of the rudder servo,
and tie the end of the mainsail sheet (part 44) to it
permanently. Run the sheet through the pulley block
and then through the sheet guide.
• Tie the two rudder steering cables (part 45) to the
rudder servo output arm, and thread them through
the cable guides. Pass the steering cables through
the tiller and then through the tensioner (part 46). The
method of connecting the tensioners is shown on the
plan. Ensure that both tensioners are at
approximately the same position.
• Fix the four turnbuckles (part 47) in place using one
fillister-head screw (part 33) each. IMPORTANT: ensure that the turnbuckles are adjacent to the channel in
the deck when in the open position.
• Fit the keel (part 48) in the keel / mast socket using the appropriate adaptors (part 49). Trim the slot
gradually until there is space for the keel retaining screws at all three positions. TIP: you may have to sand
back the tongue of the keel and the adaptors in order to fit them in the keel / mast socket. NOTE: the keel
is always used in conjunction with the adaptor set, which permits three keel positions. Adaptor (B) is used
in order to position the keel towards the bow; adaptor (H) is fitted for the stern position, and both adaptors
(M) are used to obtain the central keel position.
• The keel ballast bulb (part 50) is a sand-casting; for this reason the surface is not smooth, and may contain
traces of sand. This must be filed off before the bulb is glued to the keel. IMPORTANT: lead is toxic.
Always use gloves when handling the material, take great care to sweep away metal particles and filings
immediately, and dispose off them in the appropriate way. It must not be ingested by man or beast!
• Fix the keel to the hull in the centre position, then place the model in the boatstand, parallel to the design
waterline. Now hold the keel bulb against the underside of the keel: the ballast bulb should lie parallel to the

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24
waterline, or inclined slightly upward towards the bow.
IMPORTANT: it must not hang down. When you have
obtained this position, glue the bulb to the keel using
UHU acrylit or thick cyano. Allow the adhesive to cure,
then cut two 1.5 mm Ø retaining pins (part 51) from the
steel wire supplied, and pass them through the keel
bulb and the keel to retain it.
• If you do not wish to use the keel bulb fairings, you
should finish the keel using the following procedure:
file the surface of the bulb as even, smooth and
symmetrical as possible, and fill any remaining holes
(e.g. using Order No. 924). Sand the filler back flush
when hard. NOTE: the smoother the surface of the
keel bulb, the lower the water resistance; careful work
pays dividends here.
• Alternatively you can fit the keel bulb fairings (part 52).
In this case you must sand away the lead bulb until the
shells are a snug fit round it.
• Screw the keel to the hull using a washer (part 43) and
the retaining nut (part 53); this holes the hull in a more
stable position in the boatstand for the following
stages.
• The rubber gasket (part 54) is glued in the canopy
(part 55) using cyano. Don’t cut the cord to final length
until you are just about to join the ends.
• To complete the mast (part 56) you require the
aluminium mast sleeve (part 57) and the hardwood
dowel mast base (part 58). Sand the hardwood dowel
until it is an easy sliding fit inside the mast, then glue it
in the end of the carbon fibre tube. Sand the end flat,
and round off the end slightly. Cut the aluminium mast
sleeve to a length of 115 mm, and insert it in the mast
opening.
• Slide the main boom bracket (part 59) and the mast
plate (part 60) down over the mast sleeve until they
rest on the deck. Check that everything is central, then
fix the mast plate to the deck using fillister-head screws
(part 33).
• Assemble the main boom swivel bracket (part 61), the
washer (part 35) and the swivel axle (part 62), and
check that the axle rotates very freely; if not, sand it to
ease the fit.
• Glue the main boom (part 64) in the main boom sleeve
(part 63). Screw the clamp nut (part 66) into the
depressor (part 65). TIP: the correct thread is on the
end with the notch. Push a large annular clamp (part
67) onto the main boom, fit one end of the depressor
into the annular clamp and secure it with a retaining
screw (part 68). Don’t tighten the screw fully at this
stage; it must be possible to adjust the position of the
annular clamp on the boom.
• Screw the main boom to the main boom swivel bracket
using two screws (part 68) and two retaining nuts (part
69).
• Fit the jib hanger (part 70) on the mast and glue it in
place at a point about 95 mm from the top of the mast.
The masthead fitting (part 71) can now be glued to the
top of the mast. IMPORTANT: check that the
masthead fitting is exactly in line with the jib hanger.
• Cut the backstay (part 72) from the white polyester cord supplied. Cut a piece from the large loop of one
wire hook (part 73), as shown in the drawing, and apply a drop of cyano to the point where the two loops

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meet. NOTE: this ensures that the cord will not slip
out of the loop. Tie the cord to the masthead, and run
it through the small loop of the wire hook. Connect this
to the ring-screw (part 34), thread the cord through a
tensioner (part 46) and tie the end as shown. Adjust
the tensioner to place the backstay under light
tension.
• Tie the shrouds (part 74) to the inner hole of the jib
hanger, leaving both ends of the cord approximately
the same length. Make up two wire hooks as
described earlier. Thread one of the cord ends
through the small loop of the hook, and connect the
large loop of the hook to the ring-screw. Slip the cord
through a tensioner, then loop it around the fillister-
head screw (part 33) in the deck and tie it to the
tensioner again. Repeat the procedure with the shroud
on the other side of the boat. Place the shrouds until
light tension, so that the mast stands up straight.
• Rub the black stickers firmly onto the sails using a
scrap piece of wood. Heat a needle or pin (caution:
burn hazard!) and use it to pierce 1 mm Ø holes in the
sail at the positions shown. The hole in the clew must
be opened up to 2 mm Ø. The position of the holes is
shown on the plan. NOTE: the hot needle melts the
sail material cleanly, and prevents it fraying.
• Glue the carbon fibre sail battens (part 76) to the sail
following the dimensions stated on the plan. The ends
of the battens must be secured using the circular
stickers (part 77) to prevent them coming loose. Apply
the stickers centrally round the leech (trailing edge) of
the sail.
• Tie the mainsail luff stretcher (part 78) securely to the
throat of the sail. Tie the mainsail halyard (part 79) to
the headboard (top corner) of the mainsail, and slip
the halyard through the hole in the masthead fitting.
Position the cord in such a way that the mainsail is
located about 4 mm above the main boom swivel
bracket, and tie it to the masthead fitting. Slip the cord
of the luff stretcher through the two holes in the main
boom bracket (part 59), run it through a tensioner (part
46), wrap the cord round the ring-screw, and tie the
end to the tensioner again. Adjust the tensioner to
place the mainsail under light tension.
• Fit the mast rings (part 80) over the mast and through
the sail.
• Cut the sliding sleeve (part 81) from the snake outer
sleeve. Slip one large collet (part 82) onto the main
boom, fit the sliding sleeve into the collet, and secure
it with a retaining screw (part 68). Slide the collet into
position, and tighten the screw to secure it.
• Slide another large collet (part 82) onto the main
boom, slip the clew of the sail between the clamp jaws
and fit a retaining screw (part 68) to secure it. Ensure
that the sail is under tension, and is able to move on
the screw shank.
• Run the main sheet (part 44) through the sliding
sleeve and into the collet. Press one large collet (part
82) over the main boom. Set the sail setting servo to
the position at which the sails are close-hauled, then
run the sheet through the holes in the collet and
secure the sheet with a knot, as shown on the plan.
IMPORTANT: there must be sufficient travel for sheet adjustment; the correct position is central between

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26
the two collets.
• Glue the two end-caps (parts 84 + 85) to the jib boom
(part 83). IMPORTANT: ensure that the two small
holes in the caps are on the same side, and are lined
up in the same plane. Glue the retaining pin in the
hole in the cap with a drop of cyano, leaving it
projecting by about 11 mm. The jib counterweight
(part 87) can now be glued to the pin using UHU
alleskleber (for a non-permanent joint). IMPORTANT:
there should be a gap of about 1 mm between the
counterweight and the cap.
• Pierce the holes in the jib (part 88) at the marked
points, as previously described for the mainsail. The
hole in the clew for the small annular clamp must
again be opened up to 2 mm Ø.
• Slip the forestay (part 89) through the loops in the luff of the jib. TIP: apply a drop of thin cyano to the end
of the cord over a length of at least 25 mm; this
stiffens the cord, and makes it easier to slip it through
the loop.
• Tie the jib halyard (part 90) to the headboard (top
corner) of the sail. Tie the luff stretcher (part 91) to the
throat of the sail at the bottom.
• Attach the small annular clamp (part 92) to the jib
boom, fit the sail between the jaws of the clamp, and
secure the sail with the retaining screw (part 68).
• Fit the luff stretcher through the hole in the jib end-cap
(part 85). Fit a small collet (part 93) on the jib boom.
Set the sail setting servo to the position at which the
sails are close-hauled, then run the sheet through the
holes in the collet and tie the end of the jib sheet as
described for the main sheet. IMPORTANT: there
must be sufficient travel for sheet adjustment; use the position indicated on the plan if possible. Place the
collet under tension, so that the foot of the sail is parallel to the jib boom.
• Tie the forestay round the retaining pin (part 86). Tie the jib halyard to the outer hole in the jib hanger (part
70). IMPORTANT: the feet of the two sails should be exactly in line once the rigging is complete.
• Run the cord of the forestay through a tensioner (part 46), then through the outer hole in the jib hanger.
Thread it through the tensioner again, then secure the cord with a knot.
• Fit a small collet (part 93) on the jib boom. Tie the jib retainer (part 94) to the collet, as described for the
sheet. Make a wire hook (part 73) as described previously, connect the hook to the ring-screw, and run the
cord of the jib retainer through the small eye of the hook. Pass the cord through a tensioner (part 46), loop
it round the fillister-head screw in the deck (part 33) and tie the cord to the tensioner again. Place the jib
retainer under light tension. The position of the jib should be adjusted by moving the collet along the jib
boom until the jib counterweight is located just aft of the tip of the bow.
• Run the jib sheet (part 42) through the large hole in the jib boom end-cap (part 84). Fit a small collet (part
93) on the jib boom, run the jib sheet through the holes and tie it as described for the main sheet.
IMPORTANT: there must be sufficient travel for sheet adjustment; about 30 mm to the small collet is a
good starting point.
• Tie the topping lift (part 95) to the jib end-cap (part 84). Run the cord of the topping lift through a tensioner
(part 46), then through the outer hole in the jib hanger (part 70), and finally tie the cord to the tensioner
again. The topping lift should be only be under light tension, i.e. it must not pull the jib out of shape.

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27
Painting
• We recommend that you ask your local model shop (or specialist paint supplier) for advice on the best
types of paint to use.
• Use ONLY paints of the same type, made by the same manufacturer, otherwise they may react with each
other; dissolving the earlier coats or producing unsightly bubbles. Caution: Lexan paints are only
compatible with each other; they must never be used in combination with other types or paint or primer.
• To ensure that the paint adheres well, it is essential to sand the surfaces with fine wet-and-dry paper (600-
grit or 800-grit), then de-grease them using a non-greasy cleaning agent or white spirit. Try not to touch
the cleaned surfaces again before painting, as your skin will just apply new grease to the surface.
• Do bear in mind that parts glued to painted surfaces can only adhere as well as the paint sticks to the
model, i.e. such parts are often knocked off, tearing the paint from the model at the same time. Parts which
are exposed and vulnerable should be glued directly to the sub-surface, i.e. the paint should be scraped
off beforehand.
• Apply several coats of sanding sealer (e.g. GLATTFIX, Order No. 207) or clear lacquer (e.g. HYDRO-
AEROFIX, Order No. 926.1) to all the wooden parts to prevent them absorbing water.
• When spraying paint, take care to mask off all areas which are not to be coloured. Seal all holes, as the
fine mist of paint will find its way into any opening, no matter how small.
• Read and observe the instructions supplied by the paint manufacturer.
Colour scheme
The recommended colours are stated below with their RAL numbers, to ensure that you will be able to select
the correct hues. Armed with this information, any paint supplier will be able to produce the right colours for
you. Let your specialist paint supplier or advisor know what you intend to use the paints for, as this will help him
select the correct type. We always recommend synthetic enamels.
The colour RAL 9016 (transport white) is the ideal base colour for the model, as the decals are designed to be
applied to a white surface. However, there is no reason why you should not paint the boat in any colour scheme
you like.
Applying the decals
Cut out the individual decals neatly using a pair of sharp scissors, leaving as little margin round them as
possible. They should be applied to the model’s surface once painting is complete; all traces of dust must be
removed beforehand. To apply the large hull decal neatly, cut it out leaving virtually no margin, lay it on the hull
without removing the backing film, and move it carefully into exact position. Fix one end of the decal with a strip
of tape, then peel off the backing film in stages, rubbing the decal down onto the hull as you do so. An
alternative method is to cut the large decal into its separate colour areas, as these are easier to apply neatly.
The other decals can be positioned as shown in the kit box illustration, or applied in an arrangement of your
choice.

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Sailing
Sailing a model yacht is not difficult once you are familiar with the inter-action between the wind direction, the
boat’s heading and the appropriate sail settings. Before you sail the model for the first time, we recommend that
you read all you can on the theory of sailing, e.g. by reading one of the many books on the subject. The
following section just provides a short, basic introduction to the subject.
The various points of sailing (see sketch; specialist terms are printed in Italics)
A sailing boat can never sail directly into
wind (black arrow (W)). In the 90°sector
(dark grey area) the sails will always
flutter (shiver), and generate no forward
thrust. Only when the boat bears away
to about 45° off the wind direction will it
start to pick up speed with the sails
close-hauled (transition from dark grey
area to light grey area (2a) to (2b)). This
course is termed luffing. A sailing boat
can only make headway into the wind
on this course and with the sails close-
hauled; the procedure is known as
tacking, and involves sailing in a zig-zag
pattern: for a while on the port tack
(mainsail on the left-hand (port) side of
the boat (2a)), then, after going about
(the boat’s bow turns through the wind,
from position (2a) via (1) to (2b)), for a
while on the starboard tack (mainsail on
the right-hand (starboard) side of the
boat (2b)), etc. Fast, efficient tacking
with a sailing boat demands a good eye
and considerable manual skill, and
ranks as the true art of sailing.
The other courses are not so
demanding. If the wind is blowing from
the side, the sails are slackened (paid
out) just to the point where they no
longer shiver, i.e. around 30° to 45°
relative to the boat’s longitudinal axis.
This course is known as sailing with wind abeam ((3a) wind abeam on the port bow / (3b) wind abeam on the
starboard bow).
If the boat bears away even further (bearing away: the boat turns away from the wind, i.e. the stern turns
increasingly in the direction of the wind (II) / luffing: the boat’s bow turns increasingly towards the direction of
the wind (I), ending up on a course with free wind, where the sails are paid out to about 60° to the boat’s
centreline (4a / 4b). The boat only attains its maximum speed on these two headings.
If the boat is sailing directly away from the wind (downwind), we speak of running before the wind. On this
course the sails should be paid out as far as possible (approx. 90° to the boat’s centreline). Differential
pressure conditions on the sails cause the jib to turn to the opposite side to the mainsail by itself, but this
situation can also be generated deliberately by small rudder / course corrections. If the wind is or becomes too
strong, the bow of a sailing boat can very easily be pushed under the water.
If the boat is sailing with free wind, is brought into a position before the wind using the rudder (bearing away),
and is then steered back to a free wind heading using the rudder (approximately at right-angles to the former
course with free wind), the boat is said to have performed a gybe. Gybing is complete when the main boom,
paid out a long way, swings from one side of the boat to the other.
Steering characteristics / Sailing characteristics
Variations in wind pressure make it difficult for a performance-orientated sailing boat to maintain its course by
itself; gusts of wind may cause it to luff up by itself, i.e. turn into the wind to a greater or lesser extent. This can
be prevented by slightly paying out the sails in good time, and also by applying slight opposite rudder if
necessary, until the gust is past. If the boat should bear away, the sails should be paid out at the same time as
the necessary corrective rudder movement is applied. Otherwise, in fairly strong winds the boat will tend simply
to continue stubbornly in a straight line, ignoring the corrective rudder commands. Please note that any sailing
boat will turn uncontrollably into the wind if the breeze is too powerful. This means that the sail area is too

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29
great; if there is no alternative smaller sail suit available, sailing is not possible in these conditions.
Sail trim
The foresail of a yacht should always be slightly more open than the mainsail when close-hauled (mainsail
around 2°midships: foresail about 10°to 15°close-hauled) so that the airflow from the foresail is directed onto
the rear face of the mainsail, rather than being deflected into the front of it. The difference required varies
according to the wind and weather, and can be adjusted on the racing MICRO MAGIC by altering the sheet
clamps, either on the main boom or the jib boom.
If the boat does not maintain its course in a constant light wind and at a slight angle (heel) when luffing, then
the trim of the rig is not correct, i.e. the centre of pressure of the whole sail area needs to be altered. In the
case of the racing MICRO MAGIC this is achieved typically by adjusting the mast rake (inclination):
Situation / Behaviour Solution / Adjustment
Windward tendency (the boat tends to turn into the
wind by itself (it luffs up).
The mast is raked too far back, and needs to be
tilted forward (loosen backstay, loosen mast
trimmer, tighten forestay / jib halyard).
Leeward tendency (the boat tends to turn away from
the wind by itself (it bears away).
The mast is raked too far forward, and needs to be
tilted further back.
Caution: a boat’s tendency to turn into or away from the wind is also affected by the sail settings; for instance, if
the mainsail is set too tight by the kicking strap, or if the foresail is set too close-hauled or too far open.
In general terms sailing boats offer their maximum performance if they have a slight windward tendency. The
optimum setting can only be established by experimenting; please bear in mind that it also varies according to
the weather conditions.
Maiden run
Wait for a day with optimum wind conditions, and seek out a stretch of water where you can easily salvage the
model. Charge up the batteries, and check the model’s working systems. Ensure that all parts are securely
attached. Now you are ready for the boat’s maiden run. Be cautious at first, and take your time to get used to
the boat’s sailing characteristics and handling. Don’t sail the model too far from the bank initially.
All of us at GRAUPNER hope you have many hours of pleasure building and running your racing MICRO
MAGIC.

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30
Parts List
No. Description No. off Material Size in mm
1 Front support plate (boatstand) 1 Plywood 4 mm, laser-cut
2 Rear support plate (boatstand) 1 Plywood 4 mm, laser-cut
3 Side panel (boatstand) 4 Plywood 4 mm, laser-cut
4 Protective stand lining material 1 Self-adhesive foam tape Cut lengths to suit
5 Keel / mast socket 2 ABS Vac.-moulded,
CNC-trimmed
6 Mast support reinforcement 2 Plywood 2 mm, laser-cut
7 Servo mount support 2 Plywood 2 mm, laser-cut
8 Hull 1 ABS Vac.-moulded,
CNC-trimmed
9 Bow reinforcement 1 Plywood 2 mm, laser-cut
10 Rudder bush reinforcement 2 Plywood 2 mm, laser-cut
11 Servo plate 1 Plywood 2 mm, laser-cut
12 Sail servo reinforcement 2 Plywood 2 mm, laser-cut
13 Jib trim servo reinforcement 1 Plywood 2 mm, laser-cut
14 Deck 1 ABS Vac.-moulded,
CNC-trimmed
15 Cockpit bulkhead 1 Plywood 2 mm, laser-cut
16 Rudder servo plate 1 Plywood 2 mm, laser-cut
17 Rudder servo reinforcement, large 1 Plywood 2 mm, laser-cut
18 Rudder servo reinforcement, small 1 Plywood 2 mm, laser-cut
19 Central bulkhead 1 Plywood 2 mm, laser-cut
20 Shroud reinforcement 2 Plywood 2 mm, laser-cut
21 Canopy latch reinforcement 4 Plywood 2 mm, laser-cut
22 Stern reinforcement 1 Plywood 2 mm, laser-cut
23 Stern side reinforcement 2 Plywood 2 mm, laser-cut
24 Captive nut 4 Metal M2
25 Central girder 1 Spruce strip 3 x 8 x 210 mm
26 Rudder bush 1 Brass tube 4 Ø x 3.1 Ø x 30 mm
27 Rudder 1 Plastic Ready made
28 Rudder servo 1 Order No. 5125.LOSE Ready made
29 Rudder servo output arm 2 Order No. 3941.50 Ready made
30 Tiller 1 Plastic Ready made
31 Cable guide 2 Snake inner sleeve 2 Ø x 0.8 x 15 mm
32 Sheet guide 2 Plastic Ready made
33 Fillister-head screw 14 Stainless steel 2.2 Ø x 6.5 mm
34 Ring-screw 4 Nickel-plated brass 3.8 Ø x 1.5 Ø x 11 mm
35 Washer 5 Nickel-plated brass 4.5 Ø x 2.2 Ø x 0.5 mm
36 Sail-setting servo 1 Order No. 4103.LOSE Ready made
37 Jib trim servo 1 Order No. 5125.LOSE Ready made
38 Switch 1 Order No. 3934.1 Ready made
39 Sail-setting lever 1 Plastic Ready made
40 Pulley block 2 Plastic Ready made
41 Fillister-head screw 2 Stainless steel 2.2 Ø x 9.5 mm
42 Jib sheet 1 Polyester cord 0.4 Ø x 500 mm
43 Washer 3 Nickel-plated brass Ready made
44 Mainsail sheet 1 Polyester cord 0.4 Ø x 500 mm
45 Rudder steering cable 2 Polyester cord 0.4 Ø x 300 mm
46 Tensioner 9 Plastic Ready made
47 Turnbuckle 4 Plastic Ready made
48 Keel 1 Plastic Ready made
49 Keel adaptor set 4 Plastic Ready made
50 Keel ballast bulb 1 Lead (TOXIC !) Ready made
51 Retaining pin 2 Steel 1.5 Ø x 15 mm
52 Keel bulb fairing 2 ABS Vac.-moulded
53 Retaining nut 1 Nickel-plated brass M2.5
54 Gasket 1 Rubber cord 2.5 mm Ø, overlength
55 Canopy 1 ABS Vac.-moulded, CNC- trimmed
56 Mast 1 CFRP tube 5 Ø x 4 Ø x 850 mm
57 Mast sleeve 1 Aluminium tube 6 Ø x 5 Ø x 115 mm

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31
58 Mast base 1 Hardwood dowel 4 Ø x 50 mm
59 Main boom bracket 1 Plastic Ready made
60 Mast plate 1 Plastic Ready made
61 Main boom swivel bracket 1 Plastic Ready made
62 Swivel axle 1 Plastic Ready made
63 Main boom sleeve 1 Plastic Ready made
64 Main boom 1 CFRP tube 6 Ø x 5 Ø x 205 mm
65 Depressor 1 Aluminium Ready made
66 Clamp nut 1 Nickel-plated brass M2.6
67 Annular clamp, large 3 Plastic Ready made
68 Retaining screw 6 Stainless steel M2 x 8 mm
69 Retaining nut 2 Nickel-plated brass M2
70 Jib hanger 1 Plastic Ready made
71 Masthead fitting 1 Plastic Ready made
72 Backstay 1 Polyester cord 0.4 Ø x 1100 mm
73 Wire hook 4 Metal Ready made, shape as plan
74 Shroud 1 Polyester cord 0.4 Ø x 2000 mm
75 Mainsail 1 Polyester film Ready made
76 Sail batten 3 CFRP strip Ready made
77 Sticker 6 Textile film Ready made
78 Mainsail luff stretcher 1 Polyester cord 0.4 Ø x 300 mm
79 Mainsail halyard 1 Polyester cord 0.4 Ø x 200 mm
80 Mast ring 6 Metal Ready made
81 Sliding sleeve 1 Plastic 3.2 Ø x 2.2 Ø x 4 mm
82 Collet, large 1 Plastic Ready made
83 Jib boom 1 CFRP tube 4 Ø x 3 Ø x 202 mm
84 Jib boom end-cap 1 Plastic Ready made
85 Jib boom end-cap, bored 1 Plastic Ready made
86 Retaining pin 1 Metal 1.5 Ø x 20 mm
87 Jib counterweight 1 Brass 7.8 Ø x 10 mm
88 Jib 1 Polyester film Ready made
89 Forestay 1 Polyester cord 0.4 Ø x 1000 mm
90 Jib halyard 1 Polyester cord 0.4 Ø x 200 mm
91 Luff stretcher 1 Polyester cord 0.4 Ø x 200 mm
92 Annular clamp, small 1 Plastic Ready made
93 Collet, small 3 Plastic Ready made
94 Jib retainer 1 Polyester cord 0.4 Ø x 300 mm
95 Topping lift 1 Polyester cord 0.4 Ø x 900 mm
The Parts List includes components which are not included in the kit; these must be acquired separately.
As plan = refer to the plan for the exact size and shape.
The following items are also required (not included in the kit):
Order No. Name
4709 X-306 FM ECO-SPORT SYSTEM (40 MHz) RC set
Other Graupner FM radio control systems with three or more channels may also be used.
5125.LOSE C 261 servo (two required), as rudder and jib trim servo
4103.LOSE C 5077 servo, as sail-setting servo
or
5120.LOSE C 3341 servo, as sail-setting servo
or
3900.LOSE C 3241 servo, as sail-setting servo
2585 Graupner 4N-600 AA 2/3 NiMH, as model’s power supply
Replacement parts
Order No. Name
2014 Set of CNC-trimmed vacuum-moulded parts (hull, deck, canopy, keel / mast socket)
2015 Keel fin, glass fibre reinforced plastic, with M2.5 retaining pin and adaptor set
2016 Rudder, glass fibre reinforced plastic, with 3 mm Ø shaft
2017 Keel ballast bulb, lead, weight approx. 370 g
2018 Upgrade sail set: high-quality, water-repellent, distortion-free plastic material