Woosh Faro User manual

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Tel. [phone] — E-mail: [email protected]
Woosh Faro
Please read this manual.
It contains important information regarding
your safety, and the correct use of the bike.
Support is available Mon to Fri from 10am to 5pm
[email protected]

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Thank you for buying a Woosh Faro.
Please read this manual completely before putting your bike together and riding it. As well as in-
structions on assembly and maintenance it also contains essential information that may affect
your consumer rights.
The Woosh Ethos
Our aim is to supply decent quality electric bikes but at very affordable prices.
This inevitably means importing from China, selling direct rather than through dealers and working on
much lower profit margins than many of our competitors. It also means working hard with our suppliers to
constantly improve quality and ensure that each bike is checked before leaving us - not something all
mail order electric bike companies do.
There is however only so much we can offer within our price range.
We would for example like our bikes finished to German standards, with every nut and bolt fully tightened,
immaculate paintwork and superb quality plastic on things like handlebars and battery cases. But this alas
would also push the prices up to those of German bikes - starting at £1800 - which clearly we don’t
wish to do.
That said, we are always happy with sensible comments for future improvements, so please do email me
with feedback, good or bad.
I look forward to hearing from you.
Hatti Lee
[e-mail]

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Your bike has had a full electrical check before despatch.
It has also had a general mechanical check, but you need to ensure yourself that when you complete the
assembly of your bike, that you also check the whole bike over before riding it.
You should be prepared to do this yourself, or if you are not suciently experienced, ask a local bike shop
to do this for you. A typical fee for this would be around £40
A full inspecon should include (but is not limited to):
• Checking that the brakes are set correctly and work properly.
• All nuts, bolts, major xings, spokes and cranks etc. are correctly ghtened.
• Both wheels are properly trued
• Headset/stem properly adjusted
• Cranks are ght
• Boom bracket properly adjusted
•Pedals, saddle and handlebars are correctly ed and properly secured.
See the maintenance manual for how to adjust and maintain the various components of the bike.
Please note that failure to carry out these checks properly could result in serious injury for which Woosh
Bikes Ltd will not be held liable.
If you have any doubts about your own ability to perform the necessary checks, we strongly recommend
you visit your local bike shop and pay their fee. If you are unable to take your bike to a local bike shop
there will almost certainly be a mobile bike technician in your area who will come to your home or oce
and do this for you.
Visit www.cycletechuk.com for a full naonal lisng.
The type of motor used on this model may become noisier over me, if this is the case, you will need to
periodically send your wheel in to be serviced. The cost of servicing the wheel is £25 plus return postage.
This servicing is not covered by the warranty.
If you need to remove the motor wheel for any reason, you must re-grease the cavity where the cable
enters the wheel, this is to prevent moisture from geng into the motor. Doing this this will extend the
life of the motor and will avoid potenally expensive servicing costs. See the rear of this manual for de-
tails on this procedure.

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Unpacking:
Two people are required to unpack the bike. The carton should be kept upright at all times.
Remove the shipping straps, cut the tape seals and then remove any/all loose packaging and also the ac-
cessory box, mud guards, and battery (if it’s not already fitted on the bike). Then lift the bike out of the car-
ton, and immediately down to the floor. DO NOT destroy the carton as it may be needed if the bike has
to be returned for any reason in the future. Next, detach the front wheel and remove the remaining pack-
ing materials from the bike, be careful not to scratch the frame or nick/cut any cables.

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Fitting the handlebars:
The handlebars initially come strapped to the frame, but once the packing materials have been removed,
they’ll be hanging down. To avoid the frame getting scratched, fit the handlebars in place straight away.
Undo the four bolts and remove the clamp, put the handlebars in place ensuring that the ribbed section is
sitting centrally and that none of the cables are twisted, then fit the clamp and secure in place with the four
bolts. Before fully tightening the bolts, ensure that the brake levers etc. are at a comfortable angle, rotate
the bars as required for the most comfortable position.
Warning:
It is critical to ensure that the handlebars are properly secured. If they were to rotate or otherwise move
unexpectedly during use, it could result in an accident and/or serious injury. If you have any doubts re-
garding the correct configuration of this part (or any other part of the bike), you should take your bike along
to your nearest bike shop and have them prepare it for you at your cost.

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Fitting the front wheel:
Before attempting to fit the wheel to the bike, you will need to remove the pad spacer from the brake calli-
pers—see below.
The front wheel features a quick release (QR) system so the wheel can be quickly and easily removed/
refitted.
Locate the skewer (see below-left), remove the nut and one of the springs, and then slide it through the
centre of the wheel from the opposite side to the disc/rotor. Ensure that the springs are fitted correctly,
there should be one on each side, and the smaller part of the springs should face inwards. With the
skewer pushed through the wheel, slide the spring in to place and then give the nut a few turns to secure
it. Note that the nut is on the side of the wheel where the rotor is fitted, and the clamp is on the opposite
side.
The wheel can now be fitted to the bike, it’s easiest to do this with the bike upside down (NOT on a hard
floor). Lower the wheel carefully into place ensuring that as you lower it, the rotor drops into the correct
position between the brake pads. Tighten the nut by hand nearly all the way and then close the clamp on
the opposite side to secure the wheel in place. You will likely need to adjust the nut so that the clamp
offers a good amount of resistance as it is closed, simply open the clamp and give the nut a turn
or so in whichever direction you need, and then try again, repeat as necessary.

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Seat-post/saddle:
To adjust the height of the saddle, loosen the bolt using a 4mm Allen key, position the post at the desired
height and then re-tighten the bolt to secure the post in position.
Pedals:
Important—the pedals fit a specific side of the bike. If you attempt to fit the pedals to the wrong
side, you will damage the threads on the cranks. Also, if you force the pedals on to the wrong side
of the bike, it is very likely that they will come loose suddenly and unexpectedly.
The pedals can be identified in several ways: L or R is clearly visible on the pedal itself—see below-left.
There are also grooves present on left pedal, that are not present on the right—see below-right.
Note: the left pedal tightens counter-clockwise.
Finger tighten the pedals as much as you can, then tighten the rest of the way with a 15mm spanner.

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Charging/locking the battery:
The battery will not leave us fully charged. You should fully charge the battery before using your bike.
The socket used to charge the battery is located at the top-left of the down-tube, see below. Lift the flap to
access the charging socket. Once the charger has been attached and switched on at the mains, the light
on the charger will go RED to indicate that it is charging the battery, when charging is complete, this light
will go GREEN.
A full charge from flat can take up to around 8 hours.
Charging socket
Power button
USB socket
Status LED
The status LED indicates the current state of the battery. If the LED is not illuminated, the battery is
switched off, press the power button switch the battery on. The LED will glow blue when the battery is on.
When the battery is powered down, the LED will cycle through red and green for a second or so as the
battery switches off—this is normal.
To get an idea of the battery status in terms of remaining charge, use the meter on the display. The more
segments showing the fuller the battery.
For the instructions on the higher capacity externally-mounted battery, turn to the next page.

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Externally mounted battery:
The battery will likely be only partially charged when you receive the bike. You should fully charge the
battery before using your bike. The battery can be charged on the bike or it can be removed and
charged separately. The socket used to charge the battery is located on the right side near the top—see
photo below-left. Simply lift the weather-proof cover and insert the charger into he socket, then switch the
charger on at the mains. The charger has a light on it which is RED while charging, which then turns
GREEN when charging is complete. A full charge from flat can take up to 10 hours.
The battery lock is located on the opposite side to the charger socket (see photo above-right) and needs
to be turned fully anti-clockwise to unlock the battery. When unlocked, the battery is simply slid upwards
towards the front of the bike a little and then it can be lifted clear of the bike. Reverse the procedure to put
the battery back on the bike, do not forget to lock the battery.
On the top of the battery is a meter (see photo below-left), this is used to give a rough indication of the
battery status, to activate the meter, press the button in the middle. The more lights that are lit, the more
capacity remains in the battery. The red light on the left of this meter is always RED, it is just to indi-
cate that if this is the only light left, you should charge the battery immediately, this light does not
ever go GREEN.
Remember to separate your keys, we cannot supply replacements if you lose them.

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Battery care:
The Faro comes with a modern light-weight lithium battery.
The battery on this model is not designed to be removed by the end-user, and would normally only be re-
moved for servicing purposes.
Some care is needed to ensure your battery performs at its best and lasts as long as possible. All batter-
ies age over time, meaning that the range will gradually decrease as the battery gets older, so to ensure
you get the most from your battery, follow the instructions below.
Try not to allow the battery to run down completely. DO NOT charge the battery in extremely cold condi-
tions. If the battery is not in regular use i.e. over the winter, you should charge the battery to around two
thirds full, and then charge the battery for around 5-10 minutes every few weeks. This will slow the aging
process and will help the battery to last longer. When the bike is to be put back into service, fully charge
the battery to prepare it regular use.
General battery care:
Do not attempt to open the outer casing of the battery.
Do not attempt to repair the battery.
Do not immerse the battery in water.
Keep the battery away from children.
Do not drop, pierce or otherwise damage the battery.
Ensure the battery is not exposed to temperatures above 55 degrees Celsius or extreme humidity.
Do not use the bike in an environment where temperatures are below minus 5 degrees Celsius.
Important:
Although our bikes are checked prior to despatch, you must fully inspect your bike again yourself before
riding it, and satisfy yourself that it is correctly assembled and safe to ride. If you are not experienced and/
or are not absolutely sure about any aspects of your bike, you should take it to your nearest bike shop to
have it checked before riding it. Obviously the bike shop will you charge for this service. Woosh Bikes will
not reimburse you for these costs.
Before riding your bike, check the tyre pressures. The tyres should be inflated to around 90psi. No less
than 80psi, and no more than 120psi.
Check that all fixings and major components are tightened sufficiently. Check all nuts, bolts, rear carrier
fixings, crank-bolts, handlebars and seat-post/saddle etc.
You must also ensure that your brakes are working correctly before you ride the bike. If you need to ad-
just your brakes, refer to the “maintenance manual” that came with the bike. If you prefer, you can have
your local bike shop adjust them for you. The brakes are similar to those you would find on a regular non-
electric bike and so any bike shop should be able to adjust them for you. You would need to pay them for
this service.

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Operating/maintaining the front & rear lamps:
The rear lamp uses 2x AA batteries. The on/off button is located on the top face. To change the batteries,
there is a lug on the underside of the light, this needs to be pulled down and away from the bike.
The front lamp is secured to the handlebars with the rubber strap. It also uses 2x AA batteries, to change
the batteries, unclip the lens at the underside of the lamp, and then slide the lens out from the rest of the
battery body, see below-left. Pay attention to the polarity of the batteries, easiest seen on the rear of the
cover. Slide the lens back into place and ensure the clip properly engages before putting it back on the
bike.

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Riding the bike
To turn the bike ON and OFF, press AND HOLD the middle button for a second or so.
With the display now illuminated, the bike is now on and will provide assistance when ridden. Use the plus
(+) and minus (-) buttons to increase or decrease the amount of assistance given. The assistance levels
range from 1-5, with level 1 giving the least assistance, and level 5 giving the most. There are several oth-
er modes and features of the display that are covered in more detail towards the rear of this manual, but
the information given at this stage is just enough to get quickly up and running.
The bike will only assist you up to 15mph/25kph. Though of course you can use your own strength/power
to pedal beyond 15mph if you wish.
This bike features “start-assist”, meaning that when the minus (-) button is held, the bike will start moving
and will then hold steady at around 3.5 to 4mph. If you struggle with initially getting moving, this feature
will help get you started more easily. Once in motion, pedal the bike as you normally would and release
the button.
Your bike features an 8 speed Shimano rapid-fire shifter located on the right side of the handlebars.
To move up through the gears, PULL the upper lever/trigger with your index finger. To move down the
gears, PUSH the lower lever on the underside with your thumb.
Trigger/index finger
Thumb

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IMPORTANT:
LOOK AFTER SPOKES, TYRES AND KEYS!!
The vibrations on an electric bike can cause the fixings and also the spokes to become loose more quickly
than on a standard bike. You must maintain them (or have a local bike shop maintain them for you if it’s
something you cannot do yourself). If you do not regularly maintain your bike, you may damage the bike
and also there are likely to be safety issues for which Woosh Bikes will not be held liable.
Please read the following:
Your spokes will have been checked before despatch, but if you have a look, you will find some less tight
than others. This variation ensures the wheel is straight (or ‘trued’). If all the spokes were equally tight, or
all very tight, the wheel would not be straight. So it is normal that some spokes are tighter than others.
In future, check your spokes regularly, every two or three weeks if you ride daily, or once every couple of
months if you only ride occasionally. We normally supply a spoke tool (small round numbered metallic de-
vice) which comes in the same box as the battery charger.
How to check? Lightly ‘ping’ each spoke like a harp string with your index finger. If it feels very loose insert
the spoke key onto the nipple of the spoke in question, using the notch numbered 13. The nipple is the
metal part at the base of the spoke where it joins the wheel rim. Give it a quarter turn or so. Don’t over-
tighten the nipple as the spoke may then be too rigid and could snap during riding. If you’re not sure how
to do this, then have your local bike shop make these adjustments for you.
You can give your wheel a quick visual check by spinning it and making sure the brake pads are equal dis-
tances from the wheel when it spins and that it seems to spin straight and not wobble from side to side.
Get someone to help hold the bike if necessary. If the wheel is not true, then the wheel rim will likely rub
on the brake pads at various points as it rotates, use the spoke key to tighten or loosen the spokes at the
point where it rubs to bring the wheel back in to line. You may want to have this done at your local bike
shop if you are not experienced.
Also check your tyre pressures often (before each ride ideally), and inflate as required. The pressure
range of the tyres is printed on the side wall of the tyre, though we recommend inflating them to around 90
psi on this model. For heavier riders, you may want to inflate them a little higher, but don’t go beyond the
maximum of 120psi
These maintenance steps aren’t always needed quite as often on a standard bike, but they are for an elec-
tric bike.
If you are not able to perform these checks yourself, you should have your local bike shop do them for you
at your cost.

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Adjusting the brakes:
The Faro comes with hydraulic disc brakes front and rear. These are checked and set up before the bike
is dispatched but you must check that the brakes are working properly before you ride the bike.
See the maintenance manual for help on how to you adjust your brakes, but if you aren’t able to manage
this yourself, you should take it to your local bike shop and have them adjust them for you. Obviously you
would have to pay for this service.
Discs brakes do sometimes require a certain amount of bedding in, so be aware of this when you ride the
bike for the first few miles.
Essential maintenance:
See the “Maintenance Manual” for the full details of how to look after your bike.
The Faro is a low maintenance bike, however it is essential that you carry out some maintenance regularly
to ensure that your bike is both safe and going to last for years to come.
You must check your spokes as outlined earlier.
You must regularly check and tighten as necessary ALL nuts/bolts/fixings.
You must ensure that the handlebars are tight. If the handlebars are not checked and they work loose,
they could move suddenly and unexpectedly.
You must check that the saddle clamp is sufficiently tight and also that the saddle itself is properly secured
to the post. The bolt securing the seat to the post is on the underside of the saddle.
You must monitor the cranks, if they work loose or there is movement in the bottom bracket, do not contin-
ue to ride the bike until the issue has been resolved.
Failure to carry out essential maintenance on your bike on a regular basis could result in an injury,
for which Woosh Bikes Ltd will not be held liable.
Please ensure this is done to ensure your safety.

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Display—Advanced features
To turn the bike/display On or Off, press and hold the middle button.
In its default mode when the display is first switched on, it shows the current level of assistance at the top-
right of the screen, the battery status along the top-left, and the current speed—as per the picture below.
To adjust the assistance level, use the (+) to increase the assistance and (-) to reduce the assistance.
There are 5 levels of assistance (1 to 5)
The display is also capable of showing the following:
Trip—distance travelled on the current journey (will continue to record distance across multiple trips un-
less reset, see below).
ODO—total distance travelled since the bike was new.
Ridtime—the length of time since the bike/LCD has been switched on.
AVG—the average speed of the current trip.
MAX—the maximum speed achieved during the current journey.
To switch between these modes, tap the middle button to cycle through them. After a few seconds of
showing the selected info, the display will revert back to the default screen showing the current speed and
assistance level.
Option 1 - is used to reset the trip back to zero.
Option 2 - is used to select whether to display the speed in Miles or Kilometres.
Making changes to options 3, 4 or 5 without first obtaining authorisation from Woosh will void
your warranty with immediate effect.
To move through the items on the list, use (+) to move down the list and (-) to move up the list. Press the
middle button to select the chosen option, then use (+) or (-) to change the setting. Press and hold the
middle button to save changes and/or to return to normal operation.

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Woosh Bikes
DECLARATION OF CONFORMITY
Product name Commercial name(s)
Electrically power as-
sisted cycle
Woosh Sirocco Woosh Faro
Woosh Rio Woosh Camino
Woosh Big Bear/LS Woosh Gale
Woosh Krieger
Woosh Pete
Woosh Sant Ana 3
Woosh Sant Ana CD
Manufacturer, address
Made in China for Woosh Bikes Ltd
42-46 Queens Road, Southend-on-Sea, Essex, SS1 1NL, UK
The product (system) idened above is in conformity with the listed European Direcve(s).
The following table idenes the applied standards and the conformity assessment procedure.
EMC DIRECTIVE
2004/108/EC
OJ DEC. 2004 L 390/24
Applicable Non Applicable
TWO or THREE-WHEEL MOTOR
VEHICLES DIRECTIVE
2002/24/EC
OJ May 2002 L 124/1
Applicable Non Applicable
MACHINE DIRECTIVE
2006/42 EC
OJ MAY 2006 L 157/24
Applicable Non Applicable
- Applied Standards
• EN 15194
• EN61000-4-2
• EN 55022
- Applied Standards
• EN 15194
- Applied Standards
• EN 15194
Date
01/01/2019
Signature Authorised representave
Director—Woosh Bikes Ltd
XX
X

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© 2019 Woosh Bikes Limited
Woosh Support:
If you need to get in touch, our contact details are below.
It can sometimes be useful to see the issue you have, so if possible, send us a brief email with a couple of
photos illustrating the problem and we’ll get back to you as soon as we can (usually the same day).
Support staff are not available at the weekends, so any emails sent over the weekend will normally be re-
sponded to on the following Monday.
Support articles and FAQ’s: www.wooshbikes.co.uk/?support
Email: [e-mail]